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Design / Studio
As we settle into our new home a bit more each day, it has me thinking about those particular elements that I find so charming in a house. Unless you build a home to perfectly suit your whims and needs, you are left to settle for another person’s vision, and sometimes that is amazing and sometimes it’s a challenge. I feel so blessed to be in a space that has so many well thought out details, but there is one element specifically that I wish was more common in suburban developments and that is the gorgeous carriage door.
You might find this on occasion, but for the most part this isn’t an area home builders tend to splurge on. But seriously… how glorious would it be if they did! Whether you like a traditional exterior, something frenchy chateau-esque, a craftsman, or some rustic finery, carriage doors can take your curb appeal to the next level. And frankly they are just fab…
The garage is typically a large portion of the exterior and is almost always visible in a tract home, so why not at least spiff that baby up a tad or add some fancy hardware? Can I get a yes please? After all we should mind our manners, no?
Behold the beauty… and should you desire to spiff your own garage doors, consider changing out your builder grade aluminum door for something in a faux wood or with some detailing to add a bit of beauty to an otherwise not so pretty specimen! If you want a bit more inspiration, check out my pinterest board!
Home / Studio
UPDATE: We have a WINNER!!! Kimberly Kostiew you will be receiving an email to track you down and get your shipping info! congratulations!!
I have mentioned a couple of times, briefly, that we moved last week! Well it’s a true story and our new home has an abundance of ceramic tile throughout the ground floor. In truth I have a renewed appreciation of hardwood flooring now, because you guys, tile is FREEZING! Yikes…
So when we decided to move, one thing that was crucial in our timing was having the ability to move in over the course of a month. We generally do a move ourselves, and this requires time, unfortunately. With Easter, the SNAP conference (which I am speaking at, weeeee!) and a couple of birthdays, this ‘extended move time’ is even more important than ever. We were lucky enough to arrange for that, but with that comes a lag in furniture placement. Not to worry, there is always a fun solution to the ‘no place to sleep’ problem. Perhaps an Indoor Camp Out? Yes I think so…
When the kind folks over at Mohawk Flooring offered to send me a new SmartStrand rug, I jumped at the chance to cover this cold tile with something plush and fluffy. Even better that it worked to provide the perfect backdrop for our little adventure! Can you imagine camping out on ceramic tile? Not cool… or perhaps, too cool, as it were. For the 5 of you who have been reading this blog for a while, you might remember me mentioning that my ‘littlest dog in the world’ considers rugs to be nothing short of a very large potty pad (lesson learned with potty pad training) so the fact that this rug promises permanent lifetime stain and soil resistance to kids and pets is kind of huge… ya. Otherwise my tendency is simply to avoid rugs, which is sad… so very sad, because I LOVE rugs.
GIVEAWAY:
So guess what, one of you fabulous folks will win your own 6’ X 9’ SmartStrand bound carpet rug. Go to the contest page to enter, and be sure to select ‘The Design Confidential’ from the drop down menu so that you can be entered to win this particular contest that I am so excitedly hosting! SmartStrand carpet is rated #1 in consumer satisfaction… Experience it for yourself!
The contest starts Monday, March 18th and ends April 8th, so go enter here now. Please see the registration page for legal rules.
Why yes that is a vintage copy of Lord of The Flies… and why of course that is entirely appropriate reading material for a 5 year old (parenting genius here, folks…). Thankfully he can’t read and has no idea of the actual subject matter of his favorite book. It might make the indoor camp out into something different entirely, and not in a good way? My amazing little monster mash guy lovingly refers to this book as FaceBook, given the large face on the cover of the book, and decidedly checks in several times a day to his ‘FaceBook’, just to see what’s happening in the world. Just love this kid…
All was quiet on the western front with our fun little pretend adventure and so far no spills, stains, or other ephemera to deal with! Be sure to enter the giveaway, I promise you will want this prize!
DISCLOSURE: Thanks to Mohawk Flooring for sponsoring today’s discussion and giveaway!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simon End Table! This beauty can stand alone or would be fabulous in a group of 4!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 1×3 at 6’
- 4 – ¾” square dowels at 3’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- ¼” acrylic or plexiglas
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 17” – Legs
- 4 – 1×3 at 16-3/4” – Sides
- 4 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Sides
- 4 – ¾” square dowels at 17”- Supports
- 4 – ¾” square dowels at 18-1/2” – Supports
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of each 1-3/4” piece. Attach to the 2-1/2” piece to make an “L” shape using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each 17-1/2” piece and both ends of the 16-3/4” pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the supports. Secure to the frame ¼” down from the top edge using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Measure each opening, then have the acrylic or Plexiglas cut to fit the opening. If the acrylic or Plexiglas is thicker than ¼” adjust the supports accordingly.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Design Workshop Deep Drawer Component! These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
- One set of 16” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 27” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 16” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 29-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 28-1/2” – Drawer Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the sides and the back.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Cut the pieces for the sides, bottom, and back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. The box will be placed on the shelving brackets then secured with screws through the bracket into the box.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
This build was amazing to watch unfold! Such perfection… I urge you to click over and see the progress shots in this community thread, it’s well worth the time! Xx…Rayan!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Large Console! This piece is fabulous, and will be a relatively easy build for those of you ready to try your hand at a media console without taking on some of the tricky aspects that can mean! Xx…Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 2 sets of hinges
- Door pulls
- Magnetic catches for the doors
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 12” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 17” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×2 at 57” – Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 57” – Shelf
- 2 – 1×3 at 15-1/2” – Inner Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 57” – Inner Frame
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 60” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 19-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 58-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 18-1/2” – Divider
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 29-15/16” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the inner frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the frame to the inside of the side frames and stretchers using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the inner frame will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and side frames. (It will be 1” higher than the stretchers and side frames)
Step 4
Cut the piece for the bottom and secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the bottom. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes as shown. Note that the divider is not centered in the cabinet, though it can be centered if desired. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the bottom.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
My wife likes to keep me busy in the garage so she suggested that I build a coffee/game table for the rec room. I really like to try new ideas and I had heard about the hayrake frame for tables that is really kind of interesting which you will see in the photos that follow. Many are works of art but I needed the basic square / rectangular variety. I found a table on the 3D Warehouse at this location: http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=697e5edceaffe68e738e4… The source is a big table but with a few guesses and a little math I down-sized it to coffee table size.
Here are the dimensions of my final table. All measurements are extreme…
Top : 59 1/2″ x 22 1/2″
Frame with legs attached : 56 1/2″ x 19 1/2″
Height (floor to top of top) 18″
The following photos show the order of my building (guessing) process but here it is in words:
1. Decide how big (L x W) you want the top and then size the hayrake frame to fit with your desired overhang. I like to draw it out on quadril paper (little squares) and then build the hayrake. All of the angles are 45 degrees so fairly simple with your chop saw.
2. Then add the legs but make sure they are accurately placed otherwise the table will wobble. To get all of the legs the exact same length I cut them all at the same time on the chop saw and make minute adjustments with the chop saw as necessary. By minute I really mean minute.
3. Measure, cut and attach the end stretchers. Precise cuts are important to keep everything square. I installed the stretchers with PH screws but it is really hard to hold them in place when putting the screws in.
4. Measure, cut and attach the front and back aprons. Precise cuts are important to keep everything square. I just glued them in the exact location where I wanted them.
5. Cut and add the corner braces. There is a bolt that goes through the leg and through the brace that can be tightened as needed. I also screwed the braces to the stretchers and the aprons. Now everything is in place.
6. Build your top if necessary. I just put two 1 x12 s together with glue and PH screws.
7. Then sand the frame and top. Paint or stain the frame and top.
8. Apply polyurethane or antique oil to the top.
9. Position the frame on the top and attach using PH screws. I don't use glue. The Kreg mini jig is really handy for drilling the PHs for this operation. Now you are DONE!
Estimated Cost
Top $30
Legs $8
Frame $6
Stretchers, aprons, braces about $14
So a total of about $60. I could have gone cheaper but on this one I chose not to.
Length of Time
If you add up all of the hours it took about 30 hours. A lot of that time was just making sure the dimensions would work out and the eons and eons it takes to stain and paint.
Finishing Technique
Entire frame was sanded to 320 grit. Then painted with Behr Pompeian Red. Two coats with another sanding after the first coat. I was tired of white, brown, gray or black so that is why I went with this red.
The top was sanded to 1000 grit and then black Rust-oleum Kona wood stain. After several coats of stain then two coats of Minwax Antique Oil finish was applied.
The connection between the legs and the frame included countersunk screws covered with buttons, carriage bolts with the exposed heads painted black.
Attaching the frame stretchers and aprons was very interesting. I tried PHs on the stretchers but it was very very difficult to keep them from moving around when the PH screws were applied. So for the aprons I just glued them to the legs and then with the corner braces and attachment to the top I think they are there to stay.
Showcase
My first project is the Hudson Console Table!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Coffee Table! Isn't she fabulous? Oh how I love a good X base on a table. This might seem like a scary endeavor to a new builder, but I assure you that once you dive into the process, it's very simple and very straightforward. So you newbies out there, don't be afraid to try angled cuts on your first time out! I promise you can do it! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/2” screws
- One 20” x 46-1/2” piece of Plexiglas
- Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/8” – Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 42-1/2” – Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 39-1/2” – Stretcher
- 4 – 1×3 at 23-7/8” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 11” – X
- 4 – 1×3 at 11-1/8” – X
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.
Step 4
Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass on top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Richard Velloso Side Table! Simple and gorgeous, and of course easy on the budget! Yahoo… Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×3 at 8’
- 1 – quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2” screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×3 at 22-13/16”” – Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 10-3/8” – Stretchers
- 2 – 1×3 at 20” – Top Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-5/16” x 20” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 23” – Top
- 2 – 2×2 at 20” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 23” – Top Frame
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the smaller pieces. Cut the angles in the 2×3 pieces as shown by marking the lines on the lumber and cutting on the line. Attach the legs to each other using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through each piece. Attach the stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the top supports. Center the pieces on the leg frames and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure to the stretchers on the leg frames using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top and the frame. Attach the frame pieces to the underside of the top using glue and countersunk 2” screws.
Position the top on the leg frames. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the underside of the top of the leg frames into the top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Here is a picture “in the raw”.
I plan to stain it and see if I like the stain… if not, paint it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Table! With a bit of filling and sanding, this beauty will look as though it's one solid piece and will exude all the trimmings of the classic design piece it's inspired by!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 4 – 3×3 posts at 3’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 3×3 posts at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 31” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 55” – Long Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 34-1/2” – Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 60” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the aprons as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the aprons will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the long aprons and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the aprons will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the supports and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the long aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, apply to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly. Secure to the table frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the aprons and supports.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
