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Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ridgely Media Console. The simple lines of this are begging for a build with a glossy finish or perhaps a more rustic and weathered finish. I feel like it could go either way and I can’t wait to see which you choose. Please send images to me via email of your completed build, or post a showcase, so we can celebrate your accomplishment! yahoo… Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Router and decorative bit, optional
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 1×10 at 6’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at6’
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2” edge banding for edges of top
- 7/8” edge banding for edges of shelf and panels
- 5 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 5 drawer handles or knobs
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×3 at 28-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 54-7/8” – Front Frame & Back Stretcher
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 54-7/8” – Back Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 17” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 54-7/8” – Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Slide Supports
- 4 – 1×2 at 11” – Dividers
- 4 – 1×2 at 15-1/2” – Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 71-7/8” – Top
- 5 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 10 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 10 – 1×6 at 9-3/8” – Drawer Fronts & Backs
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 10-9/16” – Outer Drawer Fronts
- 3 – 1×10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 11” – Inner Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs, the front frame pieces, the back panel and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frames pieces and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes at three sides of the back to attach to the legs and to attach the top.
Assemble the front and back frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes along three edges to attach to the legs and to attach the top. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the shelf. Attach to the front frame and back stretcher using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports will be flush with the inside edge of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes as shown, then assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the dividers to the inside of the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on the surface of one of the pieces. Position the other piece on top and wiggle it a little to create suction, then clamp until dry.
Position on the cabinet with 6” hanging over each side, and flush at the front and back. Attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes drilled in the top edges of the sides and back.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottoms, as well as the shorter ends of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut a decorative edge on the fronts, if desired. Attach the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes. For another easy tutorial, click here.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
Once upon a time, round used to be my jam… and then one day the beautiful symmetrical square began to creep into my thoughts. I have stayed true and loyal to that square for many years… but lately I find myself wandering, aimlessly, with thoughts of circular decor invading every corner of my mind…
Oh little symmetrical square, it’s not you… it’s me. Its just that…well… round feels new again, and different, and makes me feel young. I mean, feeling young and fun feels amazing, and I just can’t walk away from that. I don’t know how long this love affair will last, but little symmetrical square, you will always have a place in my heart. After all, you brought such sturdiness and stability to my life, and I just can’t thank you enough.
Little symmetrical square, from the bottom of my heart, I will never forget you… but round is now my jam again… Xx…Rayan
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jacqueline Bedside Table. Oh this little lady is gorgeous, isn’t she? I love the delicate curves paired with her substantial form. A fabulous addition to any room! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×6 at 6’
- 2 – 3/8” thick craft boards at 2-1/2” wide x 3’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 3/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 – Set of 20” Drawer slides
- 1 – Drawer pull
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Side Stretchers
- 2 – 1×6 ay 19-1/2” – Sides
- 3 – 1×2 at 31-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
- 1 – 1×6 at 31-1/2” – Back
- 2 – 3/8” material at 2-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Slide Fillers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 35-1/2” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 29” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 19-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 30-1/2” – Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 31=1/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Hutch Sides
- 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Back
- 4 – ½” plywood at 2-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Hutch Dividers
- 1 – ½” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs, stretchers, and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back and back stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide fillers. Attach to the sides as shown using countersunk ¾” screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, legs, back, and stretchers.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the drawer sides. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer back in the same manner. The drawer front will overlap the sides of the drawer box by 3/8” at each side. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut an arc in each piece maintaining the dimensions as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each piece. Keep in mind there will be a right and a left piece.
Cut the piece for the hutch back and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the bottom edge. Attach using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each piece. Position two of the dividers and shown then secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Set the other two dividers aside.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, as well as through the sides into the shelf.
Attach the other two dividers as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, and through the sides and back into the shelf.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
This build is absolute perfection and the finish? Well, I have no words…other than… LOVE! Take a gander for yourself and for more of this project's details, visit Bryan's blog post (link below)! Xx…Rayan
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free Plans to Build a gorgeous Farmhouse Bed! A simple build with sturdy lines and amazing style! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 3×3 at 8’
- 7 – 2×3 at 8’
- 4 – 1×4 at 6’
- 16 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/4” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 3×3 at 48-1/2” – Headboard Legs
- 3 – 2×3 at 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel & Stretcher
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 66-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
- 2 – 1×4 at 67-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
- 2 – 3×3 at 19-1/2” – Footboard Legs
- 2 – 2×3 at 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
- 4 – 2×3 at 79-1/2” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 79-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 79-1/2 – Slat Supports
- 1 – 2×2 at 79-1/2” – Center Support
- 2 – 2×2 at 7” – Center Support
- 16 – 1×3 at 60-1/2” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.
Cut the pieces for the headboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2×3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2×3 pieces.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the headboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.
Cut the pieces for the footboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2×3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2×3 pieces.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the footboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3s to the plywood using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the 2×3 pieces.
Attach the slat support using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the slat supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides.
Secure the sides to the legs as shown using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may need to be disassembled (plus it has to fit through the door!).
Cut the pieces for the center support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer support, as well as one end of each leg piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the center of the headboard stretcher and footboard using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them, evenly spaced, and secure using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
This has been an awfully tough week here at the House of TDC. My grandma passed away Wednesday evening and this loss has rocked my world in ways I can’t even put words to. The picture of her in the middle of this collage was taken the night before her passing, and might be one of the best photographs she has ever taken. How lucky we are to have it.
I realize that I have been relatively silent about some of the personal stuff surrounding this, and going on in the background here, but in all honesty I haven’t really known how to talk about it. My grandma was a mother figure in my life and we were extremely close. More than I can explain, really. My Monster Mash boy adored her and she loved him like the son she never had (she has two daughters). Even though he was technically her great grandson, you would never guess that extra generational gap existed.
There is an important story to tell of this last year of her life, and one that might help others in the future, but I’m simply not able to write this today. In a couple of hours we will be gathering as a family to clear her belongings from her room and I’m honestly not sure how this will be. It certainly makes things final… I’m not sure I will handle that well. I’m really struggling and this will be a long road of healing. Things may be spotty around here for the next few weeks, but putting my head into work and my boys is a wonderful distraction. Nothing would make her happier than to know I was spoiling my boys rotten with love and attention, so I plan to honor her and celebrate her, by doing exactly that.
I hope you all have a wonderful Easter Weekend and I hope to share her story with you soon. It’s important and my telling it might be a very small catalyst to bringing some much needed awareness to a very important subject. It’s a story I will need to tell as soon as the wound isn’t so fresh.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Adjustable Twin to Full Bed! You guys are going to flip your lid over this project!!! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- 7 – 1×3 at 8’
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 3 – 2×2 at 36” – Headboard Legs
- 1 – 1×2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 32” – Headboard Panel
- 2 – 2×2 at 16-3/4” – Stops for Adjustable Panel
- 1 – 1×2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Brace
- 2 – 1×2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Panel
- 3 – 2×2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
- 1 – 1×2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 32” – Footboard Panel
- 1 – 2×2 at 16-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Stop
- 1 – 1×2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Brace
- 2 – 1×2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 7-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 76” – Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 74-1/2” – Slat Supports
- 15 – 1×3 at 39-1/2” (for twin) or 54-1/2” (for full) – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 piece and the 2×2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Place the adjustable headboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 piece and the 2×2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the adjustable footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Place the adjustable footboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Note that one side of the notch is longer than the other side. Because of the way the headboard and the footboard sit, there will be no left and right so when drilling the pocket holes, refer to the drawing and drill in the position shown. Attach to the headboard and footboard using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!
Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the bottom of the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the slats – 39-1/2” long for a twin bed or 54-1/2” long for a full bed. There is a 1” space between the slats. Secure to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. DO NOT use glue!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I just finished building this farmhouse dresser and am so happy with it. i wanted to make it look old so i distressed it using various tools and this video was great help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Iotye7dvAQ I used the tea and vinegar stain at first but it didnt come out exactly what I had wanted so to fix this i just rubbed some oil based chocolate coloured stain over top. It came out a but darker than I had originally wanted but am still pleased with it.
Length of Time
It took about 5 or 6 weeks start to finish but I mostly worked on it during the weekend.
Lumber Used
All of it was pine except for the side panels and inside the drawers were spruce plywood. The top i used rough pine to give it a little extra character.
Finishing Technique
Tea and vinegar stain then 1 coat of chocolate stain with 2 coats of satin poly.
Shopping
We spoke not that long ago about the difficulty I'm having in finding window treatments for my Master Bedroom… window treatments that I love, and that aren't ho hum…. The hunt continues and has actually only become more of an issue in the new house since the master now has double the number of windows, eek! Nothing ready-made is quite what I am looking for, and I am at a loss for a fabric painted creation that I might come up with for this particular room's design plan.
Now luckily the window treatments are only for 'decoration' if you will, since I already have blinds in this space. Which is quite frankly exactly the way I prefer things… I like blinds for controlling light (which I crave) and window treatments to anchor my space, which is definitely why the choice is so important. It's like choosing a sofa for your family room, or perhaps even like choosing a rug. They will set the tone for every other single thing that lives here, and will be very likely one of the first things a person (including me) sees the moment they enter this space…crucial, am I right? You guys I can't screw this up.
I have decided the solution will be fabric that is hemmed into the proper sizing to outfit my windows. Now I can move onto the 8 million options for fabric that are out there, double eek. Above are a few of my favorite options from Spoonflower and all of those talented artists within that venue! They range from whimsical to retro with a bit of bold graphic pattern in between.
Perhaps you fine folks have some lovely opinions or are having a similarly tough time make a design decision in your lives? Believe me, I relate. But I'm realy for this saga to end…
Each of the fabric swatches above can be purchased through Spoonflower and can be found on my 'favorites page'. There are so many beauties and a few fun ones as well.
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Showcase
Using another piece of furniture's gorgeous inlay as a decorative trim, was such a stunning idea! Cameron knocked this beauty out the park and I'm so honored to share it with you all! Thank you Cameron! Xx…Rayan
Modifications
I changed the table top to square instead of round that the plan called for.
Added edging and I increased the size of the stools because of the insert I change the seat to solid instead of the slats.
Lumber Used
The Lumber I used was Poplar for the table top and stool seats the insert for the back of stool and edging on table was made of parts from a teak table that was a 30″ x 30″ octagon all hand craved with brass inlay the base was made of 8 panels hinged together that need a lot of TLC (found from curb side shopping)The rest of the wood was left over from other projects or from curb side shopping.
Finishing Technique
The stain was walnut and was from other projects Sanding and staining was done by a friend who is happily enjoying the table and stools.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Baltic Dining Chair! Let’s do it, let’s dive right into this one! I promise chairs are easier than they seem! Once you get past the angles of the back legs, you are in the safety zone and this baby will come together in a snap! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×6 at 6’
- 1 – 2×3 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×6 at 34” – Back Legs
- 2 – 2×3 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 15” – Front & Back Stretchers
- 2 – 1×3 at 15-1/2” – Side Stretchers
- 5 – 1×4 at 18” – Slats
- 3 – 1×2 at 18” – Slats
- 4 – 1×2 (ripped to 1” wide) at 18” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the back legs. Start by drawing the back leg on one of the 2×6 pieces and cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Trace the leg on the other 2×6 piece and cut out. Clamp the pieces together and thoroughly sand so they are even.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the front legs as well as the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the front stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs. The back face of the back stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the back legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. The back edge of one of the 1×4 slats will have ¾” x 1-1/2” notches cut in each corner to fit around the back legs. Attach to the chair fame as shown with ½” spacing between them using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
House on Harrison's Poolside Loungers are absolutely stunning! Visit their post on the build (link below) for more details and some fabulous mods! LOVE! Xx… Rayan
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
