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DIY / Home
I have been making some major headway in the new house, despite my radio silence on the matter… I have had freelance project after project and haven’t hardly had a moment to update you on what I have been up to otherwise! In fact I am almost completely finished with the Family Room, squeal… can’t wait to do the full room reveal for you guys! Such a fun space…
In the meantime the other areas of my house are needing some love desperately too! Remember this painting I found at Denio’s, my new home away from home? Well as much as I loved it as it was, I wanted something fresh and exciting and so I took a paint brush to it, duh. After all, the reason I purchased it in the first place was the sheer size and of course the price of a mere $3! Doesn’t get better than that folks, except when it gets a new ‘do’ and that ‘do’ is a little reminiscent of a space I loved when I shared it with you here… See the room with the spotted art above the bed? Yep, loved it…
One of my goals in the new house is to turn my design style up a notch and mix things up. I want to really push my design boundaries and find a new style to love for a while! The only way for me to do this is to take risks, so a few dalmatian-ish spots above the bed are a great place to start!
I will spare you the ‘tutorial’ since it’s pretty straightforward, but I will mention that I used Rustoleum spray paint and primer in one to give it a good base coat. I used just regular acrylic craft paint for the spotted goodness and a sponge brush with a round tip. That made the spotting that much easier to do! Easy Peasy update and I couldn’t love how it sets a fresh new tone for the space any more than I currently do. It makes me happy to remember it’s there and stare at it. Ya, that’s probably weird but, it’s my way…
Also… how devious does that pup look. I clearly caught him in the act of something, I have yet to simply find out what… He’s a little out of focus here because I was shooting the painting, but that look on his face is priceless. Part, leave me alone, part, did she see what I was doing? eek…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Bluestone Coffee Table! The top can be painted to look like concrete or you can brush on some concrete resurfacing material for a thin coat! How fantastic is that… Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 3×3 posts at 3’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×3 at 6’
- 2 – 2×3 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 3” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/2” edge banding
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 3×3 at 15-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 22-1/2” – Stretchers
- 4 – 2×3 at 22-1/2” Stretchers
- 4 – 2×2 at 12-1/2”- Truss Pieces
- 5 – 2×3 at 24-1/2” – Slats
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 27-1/2” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Step 2
Cut the truss pieces. Cut the angles as shown (they are NOT cut at 45 degrees) and drill pocket holes in each angle. Position as shown and secure to the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the other stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the slats. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Locate them ½” down from the top of the stretcher.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top and fasten them together using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Apply the edge banding. Position the top on the frame and secure using glue and countersunk 3” screws from the underside of the upper stretchers into the underside of the top.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
We covered the plans to build the table here and now the benches! Yahoo… Materials listed are to build two benches, even better, right? Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2×3 at 4’
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 6 – 2×6 at 8’
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 8 – 2×6 at 16-7/16” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 16-1/2” – Side Stretchers
- 4 – 2×3 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
- 4 – 2×4 at 16-1/2” – Seat Ends
- 6 – 2×6 at 68” – Seat Planks
- 4 – 2×2 at 33-7/8” – Truss
- 2 – 1×2 at 36-3/4” – Stretcher
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2×3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2×4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the seat as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the stretcher. Center on the trusses and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Our son kept building forts around the sofa with blankets, he was having lots of fun but I thought he needed something more permanent. The restoration hardware and the land of nod teepee's are just gorgeous. I made this one with canvas painters drop cloth from the hardware store using The design Confidentials teepee plans, but added windows like the restoration hardware ones and stamped on letters.
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans and How to Build a Wooden Truss Dining Table! This gal is gorgeous and might just lend her design to a table I will be building… we shall see! Xx… Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×3 at 6’
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 8 – 2×6 at 8’
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×6 at 28-3/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 38-1/2” – Side Stretchers
- 2 – 2×3 at 32-1/2” – Side Stretchers
- 2 – 2×4 at 38-1/2” – Seat Ends
- 7 – 2×6 at 86” – Seat Planks
- 2 – 2×2 at 47-1/8” – Truss
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2×3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2×4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the top as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Easy to follow, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table! I love this cute little gal and with that bit of storage, she is that much more functional! Love that! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 6 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×3 at 8’
- 1 scrap of 2×4 at 20”
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- Edge banding for the plywood
- 2 – Cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×3 at 20” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×2 at 20” – Side Frames
- 7 – 2×2 at 46” – Back & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46” – Back Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 49” – Shelves
- 1 – 2×2 at 7” – Center Divider
- 1 – 2×4 at 20” – Center Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 50” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 22” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 20” – Drawer Sides (inside)
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Sides (outside)
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22” – Drawer Backs
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Cut the notches in two of the 2×3 pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 2×3 pieces with the notches. Drill pocket hole in these pieces as shown. Position the pieces as shown orienting the pocket hole screws so they will be hidden (and not have to be filled). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panel as shown. Secure two of the stretchers to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back face of the back panel is flush with the inside faces of the stretchers. Secure the panel assembly and remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the center divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center support drill pocket holes at each end. The pocket holes for the front edge will have to be close together as the piece will be secured to the 2×2 divider. Position the piece so that it is centered on the 2×2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that it overhangs by ½” on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and stretchers.
Step 7
The drawers are constructed differently than normal. There is a right drawer and a left drawer. The “outside” sides are taller than the “inside” sides. Construct one drawer as shown in the drawings, then reverse the sides for the other drawer.
Cut the pieces for the fronts and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Locate the bottom holes in the taller side pieces so that the back can be fastened to it. The “inside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front, making the bottom 1-1/2” up from the bottom of the front. The “outside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front making the bottom flush with the front. Make sure the pocket holes are facing in! Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. The bottom face will be flush with the bottom edge of the “inside” sides, making it positioned 1-1/2” up from the bottom on the “outside” sides. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Rub a coat of paste wax on the bottom edges of the drawers. This will help them slide much easier!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
It's has taken me the better part of two days to finish this project, and it was much like a blooper reel, I'm sure, to have seen this unfold. To say that I struggled would be a major understatement but… you guys… this is the first time I have ever used a Silhouette and believe me, it was apparent through each and every step! Eek.
At long last, I finished this cute little addition to our family room and I learned a ton along the way! At least you all won't suffer much when it's your turn to give this a whirl… there is something to be said for that. Believe me…
So let's get into the wwwww…. oh and one of you lucky folks will be going home with your very own Silhouette Portrait! Sqeeeeee… Aren't you so excited? I posted the giveaway here, so click on over to enter, yay!
Please bear with me through this crazy maze of instructions, and know that the images don't coincide directly with some of the ultimate results. This is because many of the details I was able to photograph were midstream or before I decided to scrap the whole thing for the 3rd time and change it entirely. The details remain the same, but the appearance may get wonky throughout.
Also we are going to begin at the very beginning of using a Silhouette machine and this is because I learned much that might have been helpful to know from the start and I couldn't find any exact instructions along these lines. Now there will be something helpful for those of you in my situation!
Let's dive right into the chaos, shall we? So the first thing you will need to do is set up your image or text in the Silhouette Studio. Now as you will see in the next couple of steps, the guides for where your paper should sit, aren't exactly accurate so you will want to be sure your image or text sits down 1/2″ from the top of the 'paper' edge on your screen. Likewise, it should sit up about 1″ from the bottom of what appears to be the 'paper' edge. and at least 1/2″ in from either side. If you keep your image within those boundaries, you will have better luck when you start to cut!
Once your image is set you will need to get it ready to send to Silhouette and you will have to choose a few settings to make this thing function properly.
First you will want to choose chipboard from the dropdown of paper/item type. If you don't have that option (as I didn't) you can choose custom OR you can choose heavy cardstock paper weight and make sure your cutting blade level is at a 6. Now, if you do have the chipboard option, it will set your level to a 7, but if you have never used your machine, mat and blade before…this will cut right through your brand new surface and leave you with a mat that is a bit crazy. So start with a 6 to be safe. You can simply adjust the number using the little arrow buttons.
Also, if you haven't cut anything with your machine before, stick an extra piece of chipboard or cardstock to your mat and peel it off to de-sticky it a tad. Mine was so sticky at first that it ruined my cuts.
Once you have your level set to a 6, you will need to trim down your chipboard so it will feed through the machine properly. I removed about 3″ from the width of the chipboard and stuck it onto my mat, centered and lined up with the guides on the mat.
Once your chipboard is on your mat, you will want to center the mat between the white roller wheels on the bar in your machine. This will make sure your page goes through properly.
The image above shows what happens when you don't add that extra clearance for your image (the 1/2″ extra bit of margin I suggested earlier). Eek.
Now let's chat about your blade. That cute little thing above has markings around the white portion with numbers. When I mentioned you want to set your screen setting to a level 6, this also means you need to adjust the actual blade accordingly. To do this, use the gray cap that comes with your blade, or the hole on the front of the machine to set your blade and then turn to adjust where the red marker aligns. Once it's set for 6, you are good to go according to the blade directions and set up instructions. Unfortunately my blade still wasn't cutting. After chatting with support for an entire day, it turns out that I can make the blade cut by removing the teeny tiny top portion of that white cap (which the instructions say to remove for cleaning and then replace). It seems as though it is supposed to sty on, but my blade doesn't stick out far enough for that to work, so I simply left it off. I am sure I am ruining my machine or something devastating, but I tried 2 blades with the same results and 2 blades in 2 different packages can't both be defective… so my thought is that a new safety measure perhaps, is a bit too safe? Not sure, but this is the story I am sticking too!
This is what it looks like with this little piece removed. You simply unscrew it by turning it counter clockwise.
Voila she cuts… and then if your mat is too sticky, she doesn't come off. Double eek..
At this point I figured perhaps the sticky mat and the chipboard dont mix and I should just send the chipboard through without the mat… wrong… that sucker got crazy and folded over on itself and made a horrid horrid mess. No, you need that mat to keep the small cut sections from lifting, but you need that mat to just be a little less sticky, which it was after my first incident with my cuts not coming off properly. Another problem accidentally solved… after I spent 30 minutes trying to scrape the residual chipboard off, of course!
Finally after I adjusted my margins, used a less sticky mat, adjusted my blade to a 6 so it didn't cut all the way through, removed that cap from the blade and re ran that sucker through… everything worked properly! And then I decided it was too small… womp womp womp.
Back to the drawing board, and I don't have pictures of these steps since by this time it was nearly midnight but I will happily suggest you paint any of your pieces prior to removing them from the mat. This just makes things easier…
Ultimately I was able to fit 2 hello images per sheet and I cut a total of 6 to layer and give it dimension. This isn't necessary if you are making a banner in the traditional sense, but I was of course moving to the beat of a different drum…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Open Shelf Cabinet!
** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Brad nailer
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 26-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 26-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26-1/8” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 26-1/8” – Back
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 26-1/8” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-5/8” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 27-5/8” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Studio
UPDATE: This contest is now closed and a winner has been drawn at random. Check below to see if it’s you! If you would like to purchase any of the bundles listed below, you can do so with a discount by entering CONFIDENTIAL at checkout! Yahoo
I am excited to bring you all an amazing giveaway today and a promotional bundle of deals for those of you who prefer to buy your way to bliss! Silhouette just came out with a new product… Chipboard! I know, right? For those of you who like banners and anything with glitter, chipboard is the stuff for you! And for those of you who like to win big, one of you will be going home with a new Silhouette Portrait… Sqeeeeeee… I know, right? Could you die? Yahoo. I will be back in just a bit with a project showing you how to use this cool stuff… stay tuned!!
There are three bundles available to TDC readers which you can take advantage of by visiting www.silhouetteamerica.com/chipboard and entering promo code “CONFIDENTIAL” at checkout by May 15, 2013:
1) 1 pack of chipboard, 1 $25 download card for $19.99
2) 1 Silhouette Portrait™, 1 pack of chipboard, 1 grey dust cover, 1 $25 download card for $129.99
3) 1 Silhouette CAMEO®, 1 pack of chipboard, 1 natural dust cover, 1 $25 download card for $269.99
And now for the even more exciting part? Use the Rafflecopter form below to enter to win your very own Silhouette Portrait from Silhouette! The giveaway ends at midnight just before May 13, 2013 (so on May 12 basically) and a winner will be drawn at random and notified via email!
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links
Home / Studio
This post brought brought to you as part of my monthly partnership with Denio’s. All opinions are 100% mine.
There really is nothing quite like the hunt… It’s thrilling… it’s invigorating… it’s pure bliss for a gal like me. You see, nothing gets me more excited than the idea that I get to browse acres and acres of ‘retail’ in search of unique home decor items for a fraction of the price! Seriously…the idea gets me moving in the morning and is also how I look at DIY projects. When I seek inspiration and come up with an idea that I can reproduce for a fraction of the price, it’s the greatest thrill of all! It’s all about the satisfaction of improving my surroundings, and of course by improving I often mean decorating… duh.
My recent trip out to Denios, that local slice of heaven for me was the best yet. Not because I found the best items, but because in the warmer months the vendors are in rare form! There were almost double the fabulous number of vendors (that is saying a lot since there are always tons anyhow) and the produce, oh the produce… my goodness it was off the charts. If you follow me on Instagram you may have gotten a sneaky peaky of my exploits and seen the beautiful colors from the produce section, and if you don’t follow me there… well you should! I have cute kids and I post lot’s of pictures of them.
My winnings for the day included the school chair you see above and that amazing vintage jeep with the perfect amount of rust! I have big plans for both, but one will be getting a super duper fun makeover… bet you can’t guess which. Stay tuned for all the details on that…
Showcase
After six weekends of hard work, we finally reached the final stretch of the printmakers media cabinet project and finished it up! For all of the amazing details about the journey, click here!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Moreno Bar! This plan is perfect for those of you who would like to bring a little of that entertaining vibe into your room! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink bit for drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- Edge banding for the plywood
- 1 set of 16” drawer slides
- 3 – Cabinet pulls
- 2 sets of hinges for the doors
- 1 set of hinges for the flip-up top
- 2 Friction Lid Supports (like these)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 33-1/4” – Side Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 30-3/4” plywood – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×4 at 29-3/4” – Front Legs
- 1 – 1×4 at 45” – Front Stretcher
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-3/4” x 43-1/2” – Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 43-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – 1×3 at 27-1/4” – Front Divider
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 15-1/2” – Top Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/8” x 16-3/4” – Fixed Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-5/8” x 33-3/4” – Flip-Up Top
- 4 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – Door Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 27-1/8” – Door Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 22-1/8” – Door Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 9-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 9-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 1×3 at 11” – Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the side legs and the side panel. Cut the angle in the leg using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each long end of the panel, and in one long edge of one leg as shown. Keep in mind, there will be a right side assembly and a left side assembly! Attach the legs to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the angle in the legs using a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes in the top edge keeping in mind there will be a right and a left. Cut the hole in the stretcher for the drawer using a jigsaw. Attach the legs to each end of the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the side legs.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Draw a 4” radius at each corner and cut with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will stand 4” above the side to create a “backsplash”.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in three edges. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the upper shelf will be flush with the bottom of the upper stretcher.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the front divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Secure to the upper stretcher as shown. Add a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the divider into each of the shelves.
Cut the piece for the top divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the fixed top. Position the piece so that it butts up against the backsplash and overhangs the front and side by ½”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the flip-up top and install the hinges. There will be a 1/8” gap between the top and the back splash as well as between the top and the fixed top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes as shown. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Attach the cabinet pulls in the location desired.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom using glue and 1” brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the cabinet pull as desired.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
