I love a good mix of vintage and new, traditional and modern, and of course bold and nuetral. A good gallery wall has at least a little of each, don't you think? I found the most spectacular piece of art at Denio's a couple of weeks ago and I couldn't wait to hang it somewhere. I just wasn't sure where… For now, it's part of a gallery wall I am creating in the Master Bedroom and I think it might be perfect here… we shall see how I feel in 2 weeks. I can think of maybe 80 different location I want this piece, and my mind is fighting with itself about where it's final resting place may be. It has the most amazing texture as oil paintings do, and the petit gold frame it came with is to die for… seriously. It was love at first sight… yep!
This post is part of a series sponsored by Denio's, the world's most heavenly place for a gal like me… all opinions, gushings, and musings are 100% mine. To see other posts in this series, click here!
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Village Black Armless Bench. Simple lines, beautiful features, this bench has it all… Xx.. Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
Tools
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer
Lumber
4 – 1×2 at 8’
2 – 1×3 at 8’
2 – 2×2 at 8’
1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 2×2 at 18” – Lower Back Legs
2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
1 – 1×2 at 35-3/4” – Back Stretcher
2 – 1×3 at 35-3/4” – Lower Back & Front Stretchers
1 – 1×2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Back
11 – 1×2 at 14” – Back Slats
2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
2 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
2 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Seat Supports
2 – 1×2 at approximately 17-3/16” – Lower Side Stretchers (Cut these pieces after the chair is assembled)
1 – 1×2 at 36-3/4” – Lower Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 38-3/4” – Seat
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut the tapers using a jigsaw or tapering jig on a table saw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the lower back legs. Note there will be a right and a left leg. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back edge of the upper legs. Assemble the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the upper back. Cut the angle in each end of the upper back noting that it is not a 45 degree angle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back stretcher as well as the lower back stretcher. Position the 1×2 back stretcher as shown and secure to the upper back legs using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the upper legs. Position the lower stretcher ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slats and cut a 5 degree bevel in the top edge of each slat slanting toward the back. Drill pocket holes in each then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the tapers in the front legs in the same manner as the back legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the upper side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. The length and angle of the side stretchers will depend on the angle of the legs as well as the measurement between them. Clamp a 1×2 piece to the legs at the position of the lower stretcher and draw a line along the angles. Cut with the saw of your choice, then drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers so they are located ¼” back from the outside face then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center lower stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position it in the center of the lower side stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Apply the edge banding, if desired. Position the seat on the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This project was hard. The End. But this portion I am sharing with you today, was not hard. This version is simple and you can finish this project in a day which will be mainly dry time. It turned out so fabulously that I am fairly certain I will repeat it a few more times! Next time it will be so much easier to do, since I feel like I truly figured out the process this go around, and perfected it. Now you guys can do this too and can skip the 17 versions I completed that didn’t work, not even a little bit… yay for that!
This project is part of an amazing blog hop brought to you by ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape and The Home Depot, you can find that fabulousness here at Ready, Set, Paint Blog Hop, and more info at the bottom of this post, yahoo… and also we have a GIVEAWAY! Yay! One of you fabulous friends will walk away with a $75 The Home Depot Gift Card! Woot Woot.. Let’s get this party started with a little DIY fun! Then on to the giveaway and bloggity hop!
I taped off my concrete tube form using ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape at the 20″ mark, from either end, so that I would have an easy to see guide for my table height. Then using a large drill bit, I drill pilot holes close to my tape lines so that I could start my jig saw with ease. Simply cut around the tape line on both sides to cut your form to size using a jig saw (easiest for me) or a circular saw if you prefer.
I traced around the inside of my concrete tube form to set my table top size appropriately, and then cut them out using my jig saw.
I used self tapping screws to attach my top to the form sitting just inside the lip of the form.
Mix your concrete resurfacer with water according to the instructions on the package. Use your handy dandy mixer attachment on a very low and slow speed to mix your material. You want to end up with a consistency that is something like really thick pancake batter for this to work how it should.
Use your Masonry Brush and paint on a thin layer of the concrete resurfacer. Once you have covered the base, use your trowel to cover the top (this is much easier than trying to use the brush for the top for some reason) and smooth a bit.
Allow it to dry partially (about 70%) then sand smooth. Be careful not to sand off your thin layer of concrete. If you need to touch up, this is the time to do so while your material is still wet enough. If you want to add a thick layer of concrete, do this in steps with thin layers each time, and work your way up. If you layer too soon you will have that experience of accidentally wiping off your first layer as you attempt to add on to it.
Allow your tables to completely cure for 24 hours or the recommended time on the package. Once dry you are ready to tape and paint!
Be sure to choose a paint color with a bit of a sheen to help seal any unfinished edges on the tube form. This will also help the tables weather a bit better. Give the edges and the bottom inch of the underside a very good coat or two of your paint.
I used a foam brush, since they grab quite a bit of paint, and used a stippling motion (pouncing) since the tables have quite a bit of texture. I worked my way around making sure to hit every single nook and cranny. I only did one coat, but I did a very good thick single coat.
I like to remove my tape right away but this is a personal preference and not a requirement! For me it helps to know if I have made an error before I put my painting supplies away, so I ‘check’ my work early…
I would recommend a water seal spray of some sort if you live in a wet climate, just to be sure you don’t have exposed cardboard around the bottom. Otherwise enjoy!
Love, love, love these beauties and they are very light weight too! Easy to pick up and move around but sturdy enough for outdoor use! Though I’m thinking indoor use would be fabulous too.
I used 3 1x3s on the legs because I couldnt find a 2×3. The tabletop is plywood with 1x2s around the edge of the plywood, i then routed the edges of the 1×2's to get a nice edge. I accedentally cut 2 of the runners too short and had to use a 1/8 thick sheet of maple that I had from an inlay project to fill it in, look close you can see it 😛
putting the pieces together, unfortunately I did not get any photos of me putting the top together with the 1x2s Sorry 🙁
$150, Including the Kreg Jig and screws and all supplies related.
Length of Time
Procrastination. Took about a 2 short days to build all but the top. a month to think about it. and a few hours to put the top on with the 1×2's
Modifications
I used an Oak Dowel in the legs to attach the 1 1×3 to the other 2 1×3's to make it look like wood. rather than screwing and putting wood filler, knowing that wood filler would stain differently.
Free DIY Furniture Plans, teaching you How to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Sawhorse Console Table! I think I have a slight obsession with sawhorse tables of any variety… am I alone on that one? Or do you guys love them too? Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
Tools
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Lumber
6 – 1×2 at 8’
2 – 1×3 at 8’
3 – 2×6 at 8’
Materials
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
2 sets of non-mortise hinges
4 – 1” metal straps approx. 18” long
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 1×2 at 22” – X
8 – 1×2 at 10-1/2” – X
4 – 1×3 at 13-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
4 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
8 – 1×2 at 27-1/2 – Sawhorse Legs
3 – 2×6 at 84” – Top
7 – 1×2 at 16-1/2” – Top Supports
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the X. Cut the angles as shown noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the X pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sawhorse side frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the lower 1×3 frame pieces as well as the top edge of each leg. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the hinges at the top of the sawhorses. Cut the metal straps to length and drill a hole in each end. Secure to the sides with 1-1/4” screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the top using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the top supports and position them as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
The top will rest on the sawhorses with the sawhorses located between the two supports that are located closest together.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Just finished building this project….my first Kreg Jig experience. I had a couple pieces left over. Probably my fault, but I found a spot for them under the chairs to help with support. Great plans and a great addition to my patio. I am going to seal it with a natural cedar color stain. Cushions are very hard to find in this size though. I will probably attempt to have them sewn by a friend.
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Marin Side Table! I love the angles on this table and the simple beachy feel it has, don’t you? Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
Tools
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer
Lumber
1 – 1×2 at 4’
1 – 1×2 at 6’
1 – 1×3 at 4’
1 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
7 – ¾” square dowels at 3’
Materials
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 1×3 at 23” – Legs
2 – 1×2 at 22” – Stretchers
4 – 1×2 at 16-1/2” – Top & Shelf Frames
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 19” – Top
2 – 1×3 at 19” – Shelf Frame
13 – ¾” sq dowels at 13” – Shelf
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles and the tapers using the saw of your choice. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each top end (in the angle). Note that there will be two left pieces and two right pieces. Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Cut the angles using the saw of your choice. Attach the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the top frame and the top. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the top. Secure the frame pieces to the top piece using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelf. Cut the notches in the 1×3 pieces using the saw of your choice. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Position the shelf as indicated in the drawing and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
As a Silhouette America affiliate, I have the opportunity to try new products and earn a small commission on sales while passing along special promotions. Here’s the current deal with awesome savings. Just use code “CONFIDENTIAL” at checkout.
Oky dok, now let’s dive into the fun stuff aside from discounts… those are fun too! This project took me a grand total of 30 minutes and that includes making the actual pillow cover too! I love a good fast project! So we are going to dive right in, let’s go!
Begin by choosing an image and opening it in your Silhouette Software Program. I chose to make my own kilim pattern which you see attached below. If you would like something similar, feel free to right click and save. You will need to download a triangle shape from Silhouette and then modify the size according to your needs.
For the various proportions of the triangles you will want the largest to be double the size of the medium triangle and the medium triangle to be double the size of the smallest triangle. For mine I used, 2.5″ across the bottom, 1.25″ across the bottom, and .75″ across the bottom. I realize .75″ is not half of 1.25″, but we were getting into the very tiny and hardly worth it range.
Now the fabric interfacing is really easy to use… it’s the layout that is the most difficult. If you are working with only one color, simply layout your triangles as you see and then follow the instructions that follow, easy peasy. Of course I had to make this hard by including several colors in varying amounts of triangles… but for the sake of this tutorial, let’s pretend I didn’t.
Once you have laid out your pattern in your Silhouette Software, select fabric for the material and adjust your blade as indicated (a 3) then you are ready to get your fabric set up…
Begin by cutting a piece of fabric that is 1″ larger than your pattern or image and a piece of the fabric interfacing that is a tad smaller than your fabric all the way around.
The bumpy side of the interfacing should touch the back of your fabric, then iron together on a heat appropriate for your fabric type.
Trim all the way around your edges so your fabric and the interfacing are the same size. Then place on your cutting mat.
Cut away and then when all your pieces are cut, lay them out on your fabric.
To iron them in place, you can simply use your iron on the same heat setting from the previous steps and iron these cute little pieces in place. For this pattern I began in the middle and worked my way out after I made sure everything fit properly!
Once your pattern is ironed in place you are finito… yahoo! easy peasy, right?
Now If you would like to order some of this amazing stuff, click here and enter CONFIDENTIAL at checkout for a discount!
This post brought to you by TIKI Brand®. All opinions are 100% mine.
I had a funny (or not so funny, really) experience recently… it involved a giant jug of bubbles and a fire sculpture… ask me who won? I wasn't me, that's for certain, at least not at first. It seems that the soapy ingredient in bubbles, mixed with water, doesn't create the perfect environment for fire, or fire related ambiance… who knew? Let's just say that I'm quite surprised and utterly thrilled that my Tiki Brand Fire Sculpture not only survived, but thrived even… after a decent amount of cleanup and some major drying out, of course. eek…
Remember when I published 2 outdoor living decor options, here and here? Well I am super duper excited to say that one of these looks is very much under way! My outdoor space is so important to me since I adore being outdoors, but you guys… I have never actually had a real grown up outdoor space! I was having trouble deciding on which color scheme to go with, right up until I realized I have two separate and distinct outdoor spaces… duh! I can do both! yahoo!
The first space I am tackling will be the living space with sofa and chairs and it will have the pink, peach, red and purple color scheme you see above along with the furniture… yay! The Tiki Brand Fire Sculpture will live in this space too and is the perfect addition to add a bit of that relaxing vacationy vibe I hope to achieve! Now I just need to settle on a rug or two (layering is cool) and get this party started. No really, like actually started…
You can purchase the bad boys (TIKI Brand Fire Sculptures) at The Home Depot or follow TIKI Brand on Facebook, and of course they are well priced at between $50-$100. This replace the more traditional idea of a series of small tiki torches and acts as a fabulous piece of decor as well! Now I will get real with you for a quick minute. I am actually terrified of fire. So suffice to say that putting this together (the cleaning it up) and getting it lit were a bit of the scary side for me. It was one of those band-aid moments where you just need to rip that thing off and dive right in, and of course it was so simple and not scary in the least. Always works out like that, but at least initially I was petrified when my husband was out of town and I had to do this myself! yikes.. but seriously easy peasy. I have included a short video showing just how easy it was, yay! enjoy…
All of the sources found in the moodboard can be found here! and purchased if you like!
My friend, neighbor, professor, author David (pictured) needed a large rolling grill table to support his frequent efforts at great grilling. He showed me plans for one from This Old House magazine so we got the shopping list together and headed off to Big Blue for supplies. A couple of days later with luck and forced design changes the final product came to be. You can get the plans at: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,20691643,00.html
It is a straightforward project but the plans leave a lot to the imagination and calculator. Pay attention to keeping everything level and square. We are going through Beta testing now to see what may need changing and strengthening.
Estimated Cost
About $100. Wheels alone were $20 and cedar was $50 so it adds up quickly.
Length of Time
2 days (12 hours)
Modifications
The table is a little high for me to pull around so I suggest another handle just a little lower.
Post and giveaway sponsored by The Home Depot, but all opinions are my own.
It's been a whirlwind week or two working with The Home Depot for the DIH Workshop, Inspired by Pinterest. There have been tv segments… workshops… projects… succulents… dirt under my fingernails… and it's been an amazing ride! I am excited to share all the deets with you and also launch a giveaway as our way of saying we heart you and to wrap this amazing partnership! One of you lucky duckies will walk away with a $100 gift card to The Home Depot, yahoooooo… For the giveaway, scroll all the way to the bottom, and for a recap of all the excitement as well as a fun video tutorial for a DIY succulent garden, just hold on to your seats folks… it's gonna be fabulous! I'm also including the link to another DIY succulent garden I created specifically for The Home Depot and can be found on their blog, The Apron… it's awesome-sauce, if I do say so myself (which I do…).
Also if you would like to watch my segment on KCRA, click here and watch away (I haven't figured out how to embed it yet) and my segment on ABC click here. Don't judge… I'm still chubby from hatching the bird, I have this strange tendency toward crazy eyes… and I'm downright goofy most of the time, pretty sure that's why you guys guys tolerate me though, ya? I will try and post the other links to the other segments as they roll through.. weeeeee.
The DIH Workshop at the Stanford Ranch Home Depot was amazing, with an amazing turnout! Yahoo! Everyone was completely into the topic and the whole experience was amazing (Thank you Stanford Ranch Store, I heart you guys!!!)!
We tackled a vertical garden, classic potted garden and even hypertufa… ya be jealous… hypertufa rules!
Now let's get down to business for our DIY project, shall we?
Materials:
4×6 piece of lumber at 6' or less
Spade Bit or Hole Saw at 2″-2 1/2″ would be perfect, but smaller will work with multiple holes (see my video below!)
large and long drill bit for wood
succulents of your choice
sandpaper
acylic paint of your choice
paint brush (I used a 2″ brush for this, it went faster that way)
Oky dok, the directions are all included in this short video below. yahoo…
Oky dok my friends… and now are you ready to get this GIVEAWAY started? One of you lucky ducks will win a $100 Home Depot Gift Card! Yahoo!
