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Unfortunately I know that Furniture and TV tipping has become a hot topic around the interwebs, with some recent accidents in this arena, coming to the forefront lately. For many people, a flat panel TV is a great way to enjoy family time and entertainment. However, many people are unaware of the safety risks that flat panel TV’s pose for kiddos. With the increasing size and new ultra thin designs, today’s flat panel TV’s can easily tip over when bumped or pulled, toppling off of furniture and causing injury or even death. I can’t imagine anything more horrible…
Bringing this risk to the forefront, SANUS, the leading designer and manufacturer of flat panel TV wall mounts, has partnered with Safe Kids Worldwide. By educating consumers on the risk of unsecured flat panel TV’s, SANUS and Safe Kids Worldwide offer safe solutions for families across the nation by reducing TV tip-over related injuries and fatalities.
A 2011 US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) report on flat panel TV safety revealed:
- A child is killed every three weeks from an unsecured TV
- Every 45 minutes a child visits an emergency room due to a TV tip-over related injury
- Between 2000 and 2011, 215 fatalities have resulted from TV tip-over
- An estimated 17,000 people each year, the majority of which are children, are treated for injuries from TV tip-overs
- Reported cases have increased almost 25% from 2006 to 2010, and over the last 10 years, injuries have increased by 31%
SANUS TV Mounting Tips:
Easy 1, 2, 3 installation with a wall template to ensure even placement
- Online video walkthrough of simple installation available at any time
- No additional tools necessary – all required installation hardware is included in package
- Live customer support available 6 days a week
PRIZE: In order to encourage you to mount your flat panel TV’s in your homes, SANUS and The Design Confidential would like to offer one of your you a complimentary flat panel SANUS TV Vuepoint Mount F180, courtesy of SANUS.
The winner will receive a mount that fits their respective TV. Please note that this will not include the actual installation of the equipment. For those of you who don’t win, SANUS wall mounts are available at Walmart stores nationwide, yahoo!
GIVEAWAY: The Giveaway will run through Monday June 24, and the Winner announced Tuesday Morning!
To enter please use the rafflecopter form below, and I shall keep my fingers and toes crossed for all of you!
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Piemonte 3-Drawer Dresser. I love the versatility this pieces has! I would use something like this as an end table, in an entry way, as an occasional table, it really might go anywhere… Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 4” wide trim at 8’
- 2 – 1” wide trim at 8’
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding
- 3 cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 29” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Back
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 19-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 22” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×4 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 6 – 1×4 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Fronts & Backs
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
- Drawer Trim – Cut to fit
- Lower Trim – Cut to fit
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the sides and top. Secure the back to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that ½” overhangs each side and the front, then secure with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the underside of the top.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and mark the position of the pulls. Drill the holes for the pulls all the way through the boards. For an easy tutorial on positioning drawer fronts, click here.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the drawer trim. The dimensions will depend on the type of trim selected and if mitered corners will be used. Measure the lengths and cut the pieces accordingly. Fasten to each of the drawer fronts using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
The pieces for the lower trim will be measured and attached in the same manner.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I stumbled across this gorgeous build of our Provence Beam Dining Table and outdoor space from Anu at Nalle's House and couldn't wait to share it with you guys! I love the mix of style, material and texture here, this is a space I could absolutely envision as my own. Don't you guys adore this? Love!
To read about her build and the other details of her space, click here.
If you have built from our plans and you would like to be featured in a showcase post, please register as a member and post away or send me an email with photos and I can help you out! We adore seeing what your building! Xx… Rayan
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Small Hutch! Easy to build and big on storage goodness… to see the other pieces in this huge and fabulous collection, click here!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 44-1/2” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 44-1/2” – Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48” – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 47-1/2” – Front Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.
Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home
March was a really hard month for me. I lost my grandma that month and on top of having a baby, a 5 year old who is a borderline Tasmanian Devil, moving to a new house, work, and the SNAP conference to prep for, things didn’t go as planned and I never got around to taking the Bird’s monthly photo. So of course I never got around to sharing them. Needless to say I’m still playing catchup for the last several months on things that have fallen by the wayside, but this is a priority and I shall be attempting to get the next several months edited and shared sometime this year (sarcastic, but not really, he might be 5 by the time I finish).
To see the other photos in his series, click here
I love seeing his photos side by side. It’s such an amazing gift (to myself) to see this photo collage as a non traditional growth chart of sorts…
Excuses aside, I think this baby bird gets cuter by the day and even though I’m not entirely in love with the set up for this photo shoot, I adore his cute little bashful smile and the look on his face after he pulled down a ribbon and decided to give it a taste. Cutest bird in the West. Adore this baby boy, he is growing too fast.
Studio
I have mentioned in the past that I am pretty fond of Ryobi tools and use them more frequently than any other brand. It’s funny really, because I initially began buying them because I appreciated their price point, but over time… I began to really love their durability. I’m hard on my tools, and I use them in untraditional ways (read: I beat them up badly and bang them around quite a bit) and still they take those beatings like a champ and they keep on ticking. Or spinning. Or cutting. You get the point.
When they came out with the One+™ line, with interchangeable batteries for every single tool, I just about passed out from the genius… Every…single… tool… uses the same battery. I keep several charged or charging at any given time, and as I run through them, with multiple tools in use at the same time, I simply swap them out and keep on building. It’s the most lovely convenient thing ever. Lovely.
Today I am excited to host a giveaway for an 18 V One+ 6 Piece Ultimate Combo Kit! One of you amazing folks is going to win this prize package and I couldn’t be more excited to see who it will be!
We are going to keep this giveaway really simple and switch things up a bit from our normal giveaway req’s and you simply have to click here and Join Ryobi Nation for your chance to win!
Now this is cool for another reason aside from the amazing prize package, and that is because Ryobi Nation is an amazing Project Sharing community filled with folks just like us! They offer monthly contests and prizes just for building and creating the projects you guys are already creating. So go forth, sign up, and be entered to win this fabulous set!
GIVEAWAY: Winner drawn at random from the entries on Monday June 18, 2013!
PRIZE: 18 V One+ 6 Piece Ultimate Combo Kit
TO ENTER: Click here and fill out the registration form to enter!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Coffee Table. This piece has a modern global sentiment and would be fabulous with many styles. Kinda love… Xx.. Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 22 – 1×4 at 8’
- It may be more economical to purchase 1×8 lumber and rip it down to the width needed or rip plywood into strips the proper width!
Materials
- 1-1/4” screws OR
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 24 – 1×4 at 51” – Top
- 46 – 1×2 at 3-1/2” – Top Spacers
- 20 – 1×4 at 35-1/4” – Sides
- 36 – 1×4 at 3-1/2” – Side Spacers
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Notes:
It would be easiest to sand and stain each board before cutting it. The cut ends can always be touched up after cutting. The table will be assembled by starting with the top and layering each piece. Using brad nails would be better than screws because there will be less of a chance of hitting a nail in the piece below but screws can still be used, if desired (just keep that in mind!).
Cut the pieces for the top and the top spacers. Position the spacers on the first board locating them 2” in from each end. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering all of the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and the side spacers. Start by positioning the first side piece at each end of the table top. Secure to each top board using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 3
Continue layering each side board and spacer, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Touch up the stain on the cut ends, if it hasn’t been done so previously, then seal the entire table using a spray sealer.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Shopping
This post brought to you by Golden Age USA, all opinions, ramblings, and quandries are 100% my own.
My new house has a fabulous outdoor post light. It's such a fun feature and I love the concept, even though I am rarely outside in the evening to use it (I blame the babies). But, it's not entirely my 'style'. So while I am working on my outdoor living space, I'm thinking of making a change. It turns out many of these amazing light features come in pieces and that the top light portion can often times be simply swapped out for another style and type. If swapping out the top portion isn't enough or the color combo won't work, the pole can also be changed out along with the base. Isn't that fabulous? Plug and play my friends. Plug and play…
These are a few of my faves and they really run the gamut from modern to rustic and a little art nouveau in between. What can I say, I'm a gal of many styles (read: I can't nail down one singular style these days so we are going with eclectic).
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8
This article is part of a series, brought to you by Golden Age USA, to see other lighting crush editions click here and here and to read about other lighting trends, click here or here.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Four Drawer Cabinet, in an easy to follow format with all the supplies you need listed! Yahoo.
** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Brad nailer
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- 4 sets of 18” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” – Trim
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-5/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
- 8 – ¾”plywood at 4-9/16” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 14-7/8” – Small Drawer Back
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Small Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.
Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to show you how to Make and Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Media Stand. Easy to follow and fabulous for your budget, these plans will give you specialty retailer style for pennies on the dollar!
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 19 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- It may be more economical to purchase 1×8 lumber and rip it down to the width needed or rip strips of plywood
Cut List
- 15 – 1×4 at 55” – Top & Bottom Frame
- 46 – 1×2 at 3-1/2” – Top & Door Spacers
- 22 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Sides & Legs
- 22– 1×4 at 3-1/2” – Side & Leg Spacers
- 18 – 1×4 at 27-7/16” – Doors
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 50” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 48” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Notes:
It would be easiest to sand and stain each board before cutting it. The cut ends can always be touched up after cutting. The stand will be assembled by starting with the top and layering each piece. Using brad nails would be better than screws because there will be less of a chance of hitting a nail in the piece below but screws can still be used, if desired (just keep that in mind!). Drill the holes in the pieces (where indicated) before assembly, also. The pieces for the doors should be coated with paste wax before assembly, especially at the end where it layers with the sides. This will enable the doors to slide smoothly when being opened and closed. The plywood pieces will be secured using pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top and the top spacers. Position the spacers on the first board locating them 2” in from each end. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering all of the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and the side spacers. Drill a ½” hole in each piece at one end as shown in the drawing. The first piece on each side will have a larger hole for the threaded insert. Tap the insert in each of the two boards before layering the side pieces. The bottom two boards will have a countersunk hole large enough to accommodate the nuts. Start by positioning the first side piece at each end of the table top. Secure to each top board using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 3
Continue layering each side board and spacer, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the doors and drill a ½” hole as indicated in the drawing at one end of each board. Cut the pieces for the spacers and position as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering the boards until the doors are assembled. Slide the free ends of each door between the free ends of each side and line up the holes. Insert the threaded rod through the holes and turn it into the threaded inserts. Adjust the length of the rod if necessary, then add the nuts. Tighten with a pair of needle-nose pliers or a standard (flat) screwdriver.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom boards. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each longer edge of the bottom piece. Attach the bottom boards to the sides of the plywood using lgue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the bottom assembly as shown and secure using glue and brad nails or countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the legs. Layer and secure them in the same manner as previously done.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
My boy loves doggies… and kitties… and all animals in general. When it came time to test out the heat transfer product, I knew a little something for my biggest boy was just the thing. Besides, I'm kind of partial to animals myself (read: totally obsessed bleeding heart).
As a Silhouette America affiliate, I have the opportunity to try new products and earn a small commission on sales while passing along special promotions. Here’s the current deal with awesome savings. Just use code “CONFIDENTIAL” at checkout.
Oky dok, so let's get started on this project, shall we? I have to say this was my fastest project yet with this fabulous machine. Part of that is because I'm finally starting to get the hang of things, and the other part is simply that this product is a quick one from start to finish!
I chose this cute doggy image because my own doggy is part dachshund and I thought my boy would love the idea of having Percy on a Pillow. I placed the image into my silhouette studio program and enlarged it a bit so it almost fit the screen. I set my print features to heat transfer material smooth surface and it gave me a blade cut number of 2. The instructions suggest to place the material (which comes in many colors and even several that are flocked, yahoo) into your Silhouette without a cutting mat, so that my friends… is precisely what I did.
You always want to center your material with or without a mat, between the two white roller ball thingys and make sure the edges are actually going to roll right under those, since it will keep your material feeding straight and it won't get crazy on you (yes, this happened to me).
A few screeches later, this baby was cut and ready to peel out. You should peel away the negative space first, then use this handy dandy hook to remove the small cut away portions on the inside of your shape.
Flip your material over so the sticky side is facing down (your image should now be facing the proper direction, especially if you are using a word) and press in place just a tad.
With your iron set to the appropriate heat setting for your fabric, iron the material in place with a cloth in between your material and your iron, making sure to apply pressure to each section of your image for at least 60 seconds or so. This part is crucial or your image won't stick properly.
Peel off the plastic backing slowly to be sure the material has transferred and if not go back over any sections that need touching up. If your image is secure, you are good to go and you are finished with your project. See how fast that was? It was even fast to describe the steps! Yay for fast.
Now run don't walk to order some of this fab stuff and be sure to enter 'CONFIDENTIAL' at checkout for your discount!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Alcove Wall Shelf! This piece is both modern and interesting, a fabulous way to display your wares… yahoo. go forth and build! Xx… Rayan
Notes: Pieces #4, #5, #6, and #10 will be measured before they are cut!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 at 28-1/2” – Frame
- 2 at 30” – Frame
- 1 at 17-3/4” – #1
- 1 at 22-1/4” – #2
- 1 – at 6-5/16” – #3
- 2 at 9-1/8” – #4
- 1 at 15-7/8” – #5
- 2 at 11-7/8” – #6
- 1 at 7” – #7
- 1 at 11-3/4” – #8
- 1 at 12-3/4” – #9
- 1 at 5-1/2” – #10
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Notes: Each piece will be cut and assembled individually. Some pieces will have pocket hole screws at one end and some will have pocket hole screws at both ends.
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for #1 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for #2 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for #3 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Measure then cut the pieces for #4 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Measure then cut the piece for #5 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Measure then cut the pieces for #6 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for #7 and drill pocket holes at one end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 9
Cut the piece for #8 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 10
Cut the piece for #9 and drill pocket holes at one end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 11
Measure then cut the piece for #10 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
