My fabulous friend Kristin of The Hunted Interior (love that girl a ton) absolutely rocked this build! No Joke… That finish is flawless, the color is amazing and I just adore this build all the way around. Isn't her styling awesome? I hope you will go visit her site and read all about her build (she also has a fab giveaway going on alongside this showcase so go check it out, link is below). Xx.. Rayan
Currently Crushing On: Rock N Roll Ephemera
07.01.13I have pretty much always been a little bit ‘rock n roll’ when it comes to my style sensibility. I like things with a bit of an edge to them. This might mean design with high contrast, or neon, perhaps even a little 70’s glam or vintage around the edges, and I’m definitely into a bit of that global vibe infused into a space which essentially encompass the edgey rock n roll style. Today I’m sharing some semblance of my design plan for my kitchen nook with you guys. And it’s wild… to be sure.
I suppose I feel like if you aren’t willing to design with gusto, guts, and a bit of glam, you should just sit on the bench and not even play. After all, it’s when your design pushes the boundaries of your comfort zone that you will ultimately love your space best. So here we are, back to the subject at hand, which of course is my rock ‘n roll nook. This might be a little wild and crazy for many of you… heck, probably most of you… but take a page from my book and think about those things you love a ton, but might be a little afraid to do in your space, and then go for it full speed ahead and don’t look back. It’s exhilarating, and you will be rewarded immensely in the personal accomplishment department.
If you remember this article here (yes from like 3 days ago), I shared a small corner in my nook and while it might not initially seem related to the plan above, trust me it is… kind of. You can see a few items that translate from the mood board to real life, at the very least.
So far, I have installed this light fixture you see above, thanks to Golden Age USA. I have a zinc table similar to the one you see in the mood board, and a couple of the beach scenes in the collected groupings of art. I also have fabric ordered and en route for curtains, and a glam metal table that isn’t shown above but can be seen here. Now for the sad face portion… this rug which I covet so much, is discontinued….
Womp, womp, womp. I know right? It’s sooooo good. I guess it will have to be a DIY project, which is kind of a bummer since the plush feel of this carpet would have been awesome-sauce. Crap. Oh well. I shed a few tears when I found out. Then a few more each week since. DIY could work for it, but it isn’t my preference for once.
Now let’s get to the fun part, shall we? That would be the complete source list so far, in case you weren’t sure…
Also, if you would like to browse all of the other things I have been crushing on, click here.
1. Various Art: 20×200, Lips (might have to be a DIY inspired by Made by Girl with a yellow hue or gold), Laila K (not sure if it’s an image that is for sale, but I hope so), Unknown (if you know please help)
2. Tie Die Curtains: DIY Project?
4. Various Art: 20×200, Amarylis Truth
5. Yellow Tolix Chair: Given the price of these from Target, this might be a good candidate for a sprayed finish
7. Cheetah Rug
8. Zinc Table: I purchased mine from Crate & Barrel, but this version I like to is identical (and much cheaper, yay!)
Items not shown above that will live in this room:
Wooden Pot: Viva Terra, Frames: Ikea, Side Table: Target
I was provided with items from Golden Age USA as part of my partnership with them. All opinions, designs, and craziness are my own!
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Belvedere Table
07.01.13Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 6 – 1×4 at 8’
- 3 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 4×4 at 30-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 37-3/4” – Stretchers
- 2 – 2×4 at 38” – Stretchers
- 2 – 2×4 at 41-3/4” – Top Supports
- 12 – 1×4 at 45” – Top Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top. Secure to the frame with ¼” spacing between boards using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Builders Showcase: Land of Nod Twin Beds
06.29.13Platanos Con Crema Recipe and Some Amazing Produce
06.28.13This a bit of a diversion from the type of articles I have been bringing you lately, my sweet friends, but a tasty one nonetheless! And when done right, a fairly healthy option for a sweet treat! But let me back up a tad before I dive right in…
You know how I have been working with Denio’s to bring you guys some fun flea market shopping articles and thrifted projects? Well for this month’s fun trip out we did something a bit different and shopped the huge selection of fresh farmer’s market produce! And by huge, I actually mean so huge that it isn’t even possible to capture it on camera… believe me I tried. I did manage to capture some amazing shots of some of the finds there, which you will see below, and I wish I could convey the smell to you all. It’s heavenly… fresh, fruity, a bit like a fresh baking bread. In short, amazing. No Joke.
Now a little background on this recipe I’m going to share with you today, and where it comes from… So, I rarely mention Mr. TDC here on the site, but for those of you who follow along via Instagram, you occasionally get a little sneaky peaky of him. You see he is an ‘under the radar and out of the spotlight’ kind of guy, which I respect of course, but it does leave many of you guessing about what things are like for us IRL (in real life). Am I right? Of course I am… kidding. kind of…
Sometimes I sneak in a little photo or two of him while he isn’t looking… which is essentially most of the time, but I still try and be a bit sly about it. Makes it more fun!
See how I did that… he will never even know!
Now, back to my point… You see Mr. TDC is Costa Rican, in case you were wondering from his ethnically ambiguous look in the pictures above, and his mom was born and raised there. I think that is the bees knees my friends, and so this recipe I am sharing with you today is one I was given the pleasure of experiencing in great part through that family tie to Central American delights…
For any of you who have ever visited a place in the Central Americas, you may have had just such a treat in some variety or another and I bet you liked it!
So let’s dive on in shall we? Here is what you will need for this. Be warned… it’s very simple!
Ingredients:
- Plantains (these look like oversized bananas)
- Oil (I used Grape Seed Oil for this, since it’s a healthy alternative)
- Sour Cream
Heat a few tablespoons of your oil in a skillet. You want it at a medium heat so that you can cook your plantains all the way through and not burn the outside.
Peel and then slice your plantains in half lengthwise and then cut into thirds.
Place them in your warmed oil, face down and brown.
Flip them over once you see browning begin to seep up the bottom edges.
Brown on the top until the entire plantain is golden brown and looks carmelized just a tad.
Allow them to cool and serve with fresh and chilled sour cream. It’s amazing and I think you will agree… the sweet of the plantains and slightly sour of the sour cream is the most amazing combo… LOVE!
Now, if you can imagine the largest farmer’s market ever and then add a bit more to it with lot’s of antiques and thrifted home decor, that is what Denio’s is… it’s my favorite place on earth, kinda seriously. If you are local, you need to go, it’s probably been too long since you were last there!
This post sponsored by Denio’s, all opinions, ramblings, and craziness are my own…
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Belvedere Large Sofa
06.27.13Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Belvedere Large Sofa. I love anything that even moderately resembles outdoor furniture and I love the idea of using those pieces inside as well. I mean, why not? It’s not everyday we can build our own sofa, yet when we get to focus on outdoor pieces, it’s no problem. Why not use these beauties for either? With some comfy cushions, this baby will go the distance, don’t you think? I say yes! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$75-$100
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 9 – 1×4 at 8’
- 6 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×2 at 4-1/4” – Side Feet
- 4 – 1×2 at 5” – Front & Back Feet
- 2 – 1×8 at 36-1/2” – Side Base Frame
- 2 – 1×8 at 78” – Side Base Frame
- 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-1/2” – Cleats
- 1 – 1×2 at 76-1/2” – Back Frame Support
- 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-3/4” – Back Frame
- 12 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 19-1/2” – Back Slats
- 8 – 1×4 at 76-1/2” – Seat Slats
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 76-1/2” – Front Seat Slat
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-5/8” – Arms
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 9-1/4” – Arms
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the feet and the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each foot, as well as each end of the side base frame pieces. Attach the longer feet to each end of the front and back frame pieces, and the shorter pieces to the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the cleats and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the cleats so they are ¾” down from the top edge of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back frame support. Rip a 5 degree bevel along one edge for the angle of the back. Position as shown (with the bevel facing out, shorter area on top) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the support into the cleats.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 5 degree bevel in the bottom of each vertical piece. Drill pocket holes in the front side of the beveled end. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the slat pieces. Position the slats as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the back frame on the cleats with the back edge resting against the support. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the frame legs into the cleats, then insert a couple of 2-1/2” screws per leg through the front into the support.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Rip a 5 degree bevel in one edge of one of the slat pieces. This piece will sit flush against the back to help support it in place. Secure this piece to the cleats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Secure the remaining slats with ½” spacing between them and with the narrow slat at the very front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the arms. Cut the notch in one end of each longer arm piece using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter arm pieces. Assemble in an “L” shape, noting that there will be a left and a right then secure to the sofa using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design Moments: Pictures of A Kitchen Nook
06.25.13I am excited to share this picture of my kitchen nook with you guys, since it's one of those small design moments that makes me super duper happy. Now I'm not claiming this is beyond or the best design of a space ever, or even that it will stay like this for an extended period of time, but here's the deal…
I feel pretty strongly that every home has an overall style and appearance, but within that, your design style is made up of smaller design moments and many of them are the stuff that design dreams are made of. If you have enough of these amazing design moments within a space, there is a very good chance your overall look will make you just as happy as these individual small spaces do. And that my friends is what good design is all about. To each his (or her) own, when it comes to the specific things you may like, but when the details are paid attention to, overal design goodness always shines through. Leave no stone unturned and don't ignore these small areas of your home, they are just as important in the grand scheme of things… and of course by grand scheme I actually mean design scheme.
I have some amazing fabric en route to fabricate some window treatments for this area that will replace the solid suiting style gray panels. I can't wait to show you once I get that project finished.
Art: 20×200 (I will post the exact pieces shortly, this site is upgrading)
Chair: Ballard Designs
Side Table: Target
Wooden Pot: Viva Terra
Pillow: Handmade using this tutorial with a Tank Top from Old Navy (I did not use a different fabric for the back, cuz I'm cheap like that…)
Frames: Ikea
Pillow Insert: Ikea
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Belvedere Small Sofa
06.24.13Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 9 – 1×4 at 6’
- 5 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×2 at 4-1/4” – Side Feet
- 4 – 1×2 at 5” – Front & Back Feet
- 2 – 1×8 at 36-1/2” – Side Base Frame
- 2 – 1×8 at 55” – Side Base Frame
- 3 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-1/2” – Cleats
- 1 – 1×2 at 53-1/2” – Back Frame Support
- 3 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-3/4” – Back Frame
- 8 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 20” – Back Slats
- 8 – 1×4 at 53-1/2” – Seat Slats
- 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 53-1/2” – Front Seat Slat
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-5/8” – Arms
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 9-1/4” – Arms
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the feet and the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each foot, as well as each end of the side base frame pieces. Attach the longer feet to each end of the front and back frame pieces, and the shorter pieces to the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the cleats and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the cleats so they are ¾” down from the top edge of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back frame support. Rip a 5 degree bevel along one edge for the angle of the back. Position as shown (with the bevel facing out, shorter area on top) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the support into the cleats.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 5 degree bevel in the bottom of each vertical piece. Drill pocket holes in the front side of the beveled end. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the slat pieces. Position the slats as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the back frame on the cleats with the back edge resting against the support. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the frame legs into the cleats, then insert a couple of 2-1/2” screws per leg through the front into the support.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Rip a 5 degree bevel in one edge of one of the slat pieces. This piece will sit flush against the back to help support it in place. Secure this piece to the cleats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Secure the remaining slats with ½” spacing between them and with the narrow slat at the very front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the arms. Cut the notch in one end of each longer arm piece using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter arm pieces. Assemble in an “L” shape, noting that there will be a left and a right then secure to the sofa using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Belvedere Side or Arm Chair
06.21.13Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build and indoor outdoor Belvedere Arm Chair. Ps…The arms cam be omitted for the Side Chair option which makes this a mix and match kind of plan, Wwhich you know I adore… Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Drill
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun – optional
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set – optional
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 4 – 2×2 at 18” – Lower Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 17”- Upper Back Legs
- 8 – 1×4 at 22” – Stretchers & Back Slats
- 2 – 1×2 at 22” – Cleats
- 1 – 1×2 at 23-1/2” – Seat Support
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/8” wide) at 23-1/2” – Side Slats
- 4 – 1×4 at 23-1/2” – Seat Slats
- 2 – 1×3 at 25-1/4” – Arms (For the arm chair option)
- 2 – 1×2 at 6-1/4” – Arms (For the arm chair option)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut the tapers as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the lower legs keeping in mind there will be a right leg and a left leg. Cut a 2-1/2 degree bevel in the lower edge of the upper legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back slats and stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown. The front face of the back slats will follow the angle of the upper leg and the outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside face of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs. Cut the tapers as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the cleats. Position as shown then secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Cut the piece for the seat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Center on the side stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the outer slats. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Cut the remaining slats. Position all of the slats as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the cleats and support.
For the arm chair option: Cut the pieces for the arms. Drill pocket holes at each end of the 1×2 pieces. Cut the angle and the notches in the 1×3 pieces using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Position as shown the secure the front edge to the 1×2 piece using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back edge of the arms will be secured using glue and countersunk screws (1-1/4” screw through the side and two 2” screws through the back).
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Builders Showcase: Flanders Desk
06.19.13This was my first Design Confidential build and I love how it turned out! My kitchen/living room/dining room is open concept, and I had a large area between the kitchen and living room which was wasted space. This desk was perfect for the space–substantial, with storage and some character to contrast the clean lines of my kitchen. It also meant I could move my laptop off the kitchen counter!
One of my favorite things about building my own furniture is customizing to suit my space and my tastes. I made the desk a bit smaller than the plan (both narrower and shorter) which meant I had to adjust the angles of the cross pieces to fit. And I also decided to use simple shelves rather than include the drawers. Since I was planning to use boxes for storage on the shelves the drawers seemed unneccessary. I simply attached the shelves to the sides using pocket holes. I also left off the trim on the bottom as I liked how it looked without it.
Approximately $60 for the wood and $30 for the finishing supplies.
Spruce 2 x 4s and 2 x 2s for the frame and laminated pine boards for the shelves.
I used a technique for oxidizing wood which I read about at The Friendly Home. Hillary does a great detailed tutorial (http://thefriendlyhome.blogspot.ca/2012/07/how-to-oxidize-wood.html) on how to use tea, vinegar and steel wool to give new wood an aged weathered look. Cheap and beautiful! I will absolutely do it again! But the pine boards turned out darker than the spruce, so I used Minwax Polyshades in Tudor to darken them up and seal the wood. I finished the top with Minwax paste finishing wax which gave it the softest texture. It was my first experience with wax and I love the feel of the finished piece–smooth and soft but it still holds up well to wear.
Do You Chairish Your Furniture and Decor
06.19.13This is not a sponsored post, my friends… but a very cool thing you must know about!
I had the distinct pleasure of chatting with Anna, the founder of Chairish, a couple of weeks ago and I'm dying to share some of the deets of that convo with you guys! I think you will be pretty excited about the prospects just like I am…
Born out of the desire to sell (and buy) gently used pieces from and for her own home so that she might update her surroundings without the drama and difficulty that comes from selling (and buying) on EBay and Craiglist, Anna decided it was time for something new. Her amazing hubby thought she was on to something fabulous and I completely agree! Together the amazing duo set out to create Chairish, the most fabulous way to shop for items that are 'for sale by owner' in a drama free zone.
So here is how it works and why I'm kind of in love with the concept…
It's an amazing resource for buying those pieces we all covet and want in our homes, that is the 'no brainer' portion of this site, and what you are greated with upon visiting. It's filled with fabulously curated with pieces that are stylish and in good condition, marked down to reasonable prices… BUT, it also houses pieces that are perfectly primed for rehabbing and I know many of you love a good project! No more sifting through millions of listings to find the one, slightly decent option – all items are showcased with pictures and details so you know exactly what you are getting and they can all be shipped anywhere in the US with shipping prices easily identifyable and spelled out. In many cases there are even local pickup options, which for a cheapskate like me, is perfection. No shipping trickery happening here, and I love that. You won't bid on an item that is $5.00 and then come to find it's $1200 to ship. It just won't happen like that.
Now here is the cool part and the flip side of this coin…
For those of us who tire easily of our furnishings and decor, but feel trapped by our trappings, Chairish makes it easy to dispense of your items with absolutely no hassle. You aren't confined to local listings, as you are with Craigslist, in order to sell your heavy and large items. You don't need to dive into the difficulties of getting approval to sell on EBay and you don't have to deal with the tricky aspects of shipping, can I get a yahoo?
Basically they have a network of white glove movers who pick your items up from your house and transport them seamlessly to their new homes! Easy Peasy. They figure out the cost and you do nothing on that end!
I have to be honest here, the shipping aspect of selling things is the most intimidating, but being limited by local listings is also not my fave. For instance my gorgeous leather sofa didn't even get a hit on Craigslist and that sucker was listed at a steal. It's just a hindrance and I can't buy or make new pieces for my home while I have these things weighing me down. It's just not practical.
Now here is the supa dupa cool option… for anyone who wants a more concierge like service, you can have them provide a few extras like coming out to snap the photos for you and even storing your items for your while they sell! That my friends is rockin' for those of you who might be moving or for some reason need to physically move your furniture or decor out of your home to make way for something else… Love this, truly truly love this…. This super charged option is currently available in SF and LA and will spread like wildfire throughout the US so that any of you might soon be able to super charge your Chairish experience as well. For the rest of us, the site, the items, and the selling venue are absolutely fabulous and I can't wait to try it out and make way for some new furniture in my own home! yahoo…
Go and browse, I know you will love this…
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pickford Cabinet
06.19.13Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pickford Cabinet, with two drawers and four cubbies with doors.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Router with a rabbeting bit to cut a 3/8” wide by ¼” deep rabbet
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- Hammer
- Wood Chisel
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1/2” brad nails
- Edge banding
- 4 sets of non-mortise hinges
- 12 cabinet pulls
- 2 door handles
- Glass or acrylic cut to fit inside glass door frames
- 4 bun feet at 3” tall plus plates for installation
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 13-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-1/2” x 48-1/2” – Divider
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 13-7/8” – Shelves
- 2 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 12-5/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 10-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back
- 12 – ¼” plywood at 6-3/4” x 7-7/16” – False Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ½” plywood at 13-5/8” x 15-3/8” – Doors
- 4 – 1×2 at 10-5/8” – Door Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 23-5/8” – Door Stiles
- 2 – ½” plywood at 20-5/8” – Glass Door Divider
- 8 – ½” plywood at 4-9/16” – Glass Door Divider
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Position the sides on the bottom so that they are ¾” in from each side, and ¾” away from the front and back edges. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back between the side pieces so that the outside face is flush with the back edge of the sides. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with ¾” overlapping on all sides.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes and the false drawer fronts. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Position the false drawer fronts as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the doors. The false drawer fronts will be positioned so they overhang the top and bottom of the door by about 1/16”. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the pieces for the glass door frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the ¾” rails locating the holes so that the router bit will not interfere with the screws. Secure the rails to the stiles using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet on the inside of the frame for the glass. Use a hammer and a chisel to square the corners.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider pieces. Secure the dividers to the frame so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the frame (the glass will rest on top of the dividers) using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Secure the glass using a bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the rabbet.
Install all of the cabinet pulls and handles as desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.