Pottery Barn inspired Chesapeake Buffet, using your plans with a few modifications. The top is inspired by the Pottery Barn Abbott Hutch.
Built From These Plans
Reader Showcase: Chesapeake Buffet
07.18.13Currently Crushing On: Tropical Trinkets
07.17.13
So, I’m just going to come right out and say it… Coastal Decor is not really my thing. I can appreciate it with the best of them, and love the vibe it exudes, but it just isn’t my particular jam, if you know what I mean. Not that I could define precisely what my jam is, but I can assure you it isn’t coastal by nature.
Now, that being said, I love a good beach print, as you can see here and here, and I am totally crushing on some of the tropical inspired trinkets floating around in retail land right now. I mean… that flamingo print, I die! and want so much… Those light fixtures that vaguely resemble sea creatures, yes please… and that tropical plant life inspired pillow, need.. it… right …now! How can you not love those little brassy sea urchins? I mean, they are just so cute and spiky, and a bit lethal seeming (probably not baby proof, but what can I say, I heart them). The vases that look like they are covered with sand dollars are borderline creepy, but I am not prejudice against creepy and often welcome a bit of it into my spaces. Ya, these pieces are tropical with a chic sensibility, perfect for even those of you who, like me, don’t consider yourselves coastal decor lovers… They’re just so beachy keen (you see what I did there… I blame the chocolate bar I just ate and the coffee I had this morning… out of control).
What do you think? Are you diggin these tropical vibrations? Or am I standing outside the line here?
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Francine Dining Bench
07.17.13
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Francine Dining Bench, and of course the materials listed are to construct one bench, double this baby up to build 2. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
Under $25
Dimensions
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 3 – 2×6 at 6’
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×4 at 16-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 11-1/2” – Leg Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 11-1/2” – Leg Frame
- 3 – 2×6 at 68” – Seat
- 1 – 2×2 at 63”
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and the leg frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 2×4 pieces as well as the 2×2 pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes along one edge of two of the pieces (the last piece will not have pocket holes). Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the leg frames to the seats using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the center of the lower stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design Moments: My Outdoor Oasis
07.16.13
For those of you who have been reading this old blog for longer than a week or so, you might recognize this space above from a previous article, here. If so, then yahoo for sticking around! If not, welcome and let me catch you up a tad. You see this is one of several outdoor living spaces we have at our new house. I will be sharing more details with you about our move and our new casa in the coming weeks (fingers crossed), but I wanted take a minute and rewind a tad to share some of the sources for this space! Quite a few of you commented and emailed the last time I did this, here and adamantly stated you want more, more, more… so you shall have exactly that! As always, this space is still evolving and will probably change quite a bit before it's finished… and then I begin again and change everything. But, I will jump right on in… As you can see, I am staying somewhat true to my original plan of attack posted here. Of course, nothing ever ends up quite as planned and of course this colorway is for the sitting area and not the dining area, in real life, but it's not to far off, eh?
Indoor Outdoor Rug: World Market (note: this has not survived well after only a few weeks and will need to be replaced for sure)
Loveseat and Chairs: World Market
Concrete Color Blocked Tables: DIY
Pillows: Target: this and this
Oversized Urns: Closing Sale for a Local Boutique
Plants: Canna
Items I would still like to add or have added and not photographed (eek):
New Rug: which I haven't chosen yet.
Reader Showcase: Chesapeake Single Chaise Lounge
07.16.13
I had a good time building this, my 3 year old even helped with drilling some of the pocket holes.
Built From These Plans
Estimated Cost
Project total was some where around $350 including lumber, master kreg jig kit, extra kreg clamp, finishing supplies, extra screws. That's kind of a high number, but I really only had a miter saw, orbital sander and a paint brush before I started this, so I'm happy with the number.
Length of Time
I have a lot of time in the chair if you count finishing it, but time to build was probably around 10 hrs, Total time is upwards of 40 hrs, but I didn't really pay a lot of attention.
Lumber Used
I used S4S pine from Home Depot to keep the cost down as much as possible.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Small Hutch with Drawers
07.15.13
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Small Hutch with Drawers. We are jumping around a bit, with our furniture plan collections, but today we are revisiting a set of plans from the Original Office Collection! A HUGE collection of pieces, found here, that you can mix and match till your heart’s content! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
- Four cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 44-1/2” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 44-1/2” – Stretcher
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Shelves
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48” – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 47-1/2” – Front Trim
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 10-5/16” – Drawer Front & Back
- 8 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x9” – Drawer Sides
- 4 – ¾”plywood at 8-13/16” x 9” – Drawer Bottoms
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge only of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert a few brad nails through the lowest shelf into the drawer dividers to secure the top of them.
Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply a coat of paste wax on the bottom of each drawer as well as inside the cubbies where the drawers are located. This will allow the drawers to slide smoothly. Attach the cabinet hardware.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Builders Showcase: Reclaimed Timber Slat Media Stand
07.15.13
Built From These Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chloe Coffee Table
07.11.13
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chloe Coffee Table, by special reader request! If you have a request for a special set of plans, please feel free to post it here with a link! You will need a member account to do this, but I have opened registration so you no longer need my permission to have your account approved, yay!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at6’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×4 at 17-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×4 at 21-13/16” – End Aprons
- 2 – 1×4 at 51-13/16” – Side Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-9/16” x 52-9/16” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 56” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly. Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the curves using a jigsaw or a bandsaw, then clamp the pieces together and sand at once which makes them practically identical!
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. To drill the pocket holes, clamp a Kreg jig (preferably a “mini”) on the end of the board with the miter facing up and drill the pocket holes for ¾” material. Repeat this step for each end of all four aprons. Position the aprons ½” back from the front face of the legs then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the angle using a jigsaw and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the shelf on the leg approximately 3-1/4” up from the floor then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Place a soup can at the corner to draw the radius for the table, then cut using a jigsaw. Position the top so that 1” overhangs the aprons then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Campaign Bookshelf
07.08.13
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Campaign Bookshelf! I hope you all had a fabulous holiday weekend, if you live here in the US, and for all the rest of you, a fabulous weekend anyhow! I will be posting a bit sporadically this week as I spend some time with family, but you know I won't miss posting plans! yahoo.. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 3 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 28-1/2” – Base
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 13” – Base Frame
- 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 28-1/2” – Base Frame
- 4 – 2×2 at 68-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 11-1/2” – Stretchers
- 2 – 2×2 at 25-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – 1×2 at 35-1/2” – X
- 1 – 1×2 at 35-13/16” – X
- 1 – 1×2 at 71-7/8” – X
- 16 – 1×2 at 13-3/4” – Shelf Supports
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 25-1/2” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 30” – Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 14-1/2” – Trim
- 1 – 1×3 at 30” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the base and the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter base pieces. Assemble the base frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the base to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each leg. Secure the legs to the corner of the base using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the X. Cut the angles as shown noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees! Set the Kreg jig for ¾”material and drill pocket holes in each piece as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 7
Attach the remaining supports over the top of the shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the top. Position so that ¾” overhangs the front and sides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the sides first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws, then secure the front trim piece.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
My Dream Kitchen and a $50 William Sonoma Gift Card Giveaway
07.03.13
Kitchen Design is something I have not had the pleasure of doing in real life, from the ground up, at least not yet. But when I dream of my ideal kitchen I find my wish list is a mix of styles with most of the spendy splurges being in the technology department. I am a bit over the top in the idea arena, always have been. But so much time is spent in the kitchen that there are just some things that would truly make that time so enjoyable don’t you think? I am going to share a few of my ‘dream kitchen’ features with you… but I would love to know what you dream of having in your own kitchens? What have I missed on this ‘must have’ list? Anything?
Of course the exciting part for all of you folks is that the kind people at Wilsonart are so kindly providing one of you special people a $50 gift card to William Sonoma! Yahoo! You will find that giveaway at the bottom so just hold on to your socks friends, this next portion is about to get crazy… and a bit long winded… lot’s to cover!
Dream Kitchen Idea 1: Mix of Textures 1 | 2
The images above show such a beautiful blend of texture and finish and I adore the eclectic mix. A Must for the overal look and feel of my own dream space.
Dream Kitchen Idea 2: Open Shelving 1 | 2 | 3 | 4
I am a huge fan of storage, and I prefer my storage to live behind closed doors for the most part, but a feature wall with some open shelving gives any kitchen space that little bit of style among the everyday items! A fabulous mix of dinnerware living alongside art and accessories is just perfection and why not err on the side of glam for how that open shelving is constructed with some fancy brass shelving…
Dream Kitchen Idea 4: Large Island 1 | 2 | 3 | 4
An Island is a must, and it must, must, must be large and in charge. This is the hub of the family in my house. The place we eat, work, hang out and chat. It must be large and also extremely functional which for me means that it needs fancy storage and perhaps a sink, but definitely can’t have a stove top. I feel like that is sooooo dangerous when there are kids involved and also who the heck wants to lean on the counter next to a heat source. Not I…
Dream Kitchen Idea 5: Appliances 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8
Let’s talk turkey folks. Because appliances and their functionality are truly the meat of the kitchen. The source of all life if you will. So why not get a bit of that life with a sparkling water dispenser? Yes please… I’m fully addicted to sparkling water. Completely and utterly. I guess the other stuff like an oven is important too, but seriously a still and sparkling water dispenser? Heaven on Earth… I Die!
Dream Kitchen Idea 7: Lighting 1 | 2 | 3 | 4
Lighting is truly the make or break of a room. The best accessory, if you will. I like to go a little non traditional in my lighting applications and use a combination of lighting types in some unexpected ways. A table lamp flanking the island and hardwired in place is just the cozy unexpected touch.
Dream Kitchen Idea 8: Surface Materials 1 | 2 | 3
I love the look of herringbone wood floors, and so I would very likely do something like that, or I might use a faux wood tile. Either way it would be a wood look in a herringbone pattern! I love a carrara marble or limestone look and so the HD Line from Wilsonart is perfect for covering a lot of square footage without the cost of the actual stone! As you will see in my next couple of dream idea items, I love a dark grout, but I would pair that with a gorgeous carrara marble subway tile.
Now that I have exhausted you with this majorly extensive dream wish list, let’s get to the part that’s all about you… to enter the giveaway, use the form below! Good luck!
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Antigua Round Table
07.03.13
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoo Antigua Round Table. Technically inspired by an outdoor design, I personally think it would be smashing in any eat in area inside too! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/2” wide edge banding
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – 4×4 post at 28-1/2” – Center Post
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 48” in diameter – Table Top
- 4 – 2×4 at 18” – Feet
- 4 – 2×3 at 27” – Supports
- 8 – 2×2 at 19-13/16” – Angled Supports
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the center post and the table top. Spread glue on one piece of the plywood for the top and position the second piece on it. Wiggle the second piece to create suction, then clamp and secure the pieces using 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in two opposing sides of one end of the post. Center on the table top then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes in each side.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the feet and drill pocket holes in one end of each piece. Secure to the bottom of the post with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the 2×3 supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Position on the feet as shown then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the supports to the underside of the table top also.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the angled supports. Cut the angles as shown in the drawings noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Secure the supports to the underside of the table, the center post, and the feet using glue and 2-1/2” toenailed screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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Builders Showcase: Jake's Picnic Table Canopy
07.02.13
I happened to comment to Cher and Rayan that I wanted to build a canopy for my picnic table but since I could not find plans I would have to come up with my own approach. Their reply “can't wait to see what you come up with” became a challange to impress my favorite DIYers. Not sure I did but the Japanese sushi restaurant inspired result is in the picture. I think it came out looking good – so says my neighbor.
Basic and crude to stay true to the style of the picnic table. Roof is set at 12 degrees and is made of fence cedar boards. Most difficult part was attaching the canopy to the table. I used hurricane straps that I found and used two six inch carraige bolts from the bottom of each vertical support to give added strength. Even with those precautions I will add more support to handle the South Texas winds.
Estimated Cost
About $60 when you consider the paint cost $20.
Length of Time
Two afternoons.
Modifications
Added hurricane strapping at the point of the roof and to support the verical columns.
Lumber Used
Pine, fir studs, and cedar fencing
Finishing Technique
Spray painted with Rust-o-leum
I plan to add additional bracing but the form of which is not set in stone. Probably just the usual triangular brace but I wanted to think about it a while.