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Showcase
Modifications
I purchased 2 sets of hardware to mount the side rails to the head board/foot board so that the bed can be easily dissembled. The instructions call for using pocket screws to attached side rails but I didn't think that would be strong enough. I assembled the full bed this weekend and it was very strong. Hardware is from Rockler woodworking online – Surface Mounted Keyhole Bed Rail Brackets. Make sure to buy two sets one for twin bed and one for full bed. These brackets do not come with screws so you will also need the screws they recommend in the details – you can get the screws at any home center. Also the 7/8″ dowel is to large in my opinion to connect the two beds together. It leaves you with very little wood support in the headboard cap rail once you drill the holes. I am going to get a piece of threaded rod approx 5/8″ in diameter and cut pieces with a hack saw to use on mine. Another nice way to paint or stain the headboard is to screw two scrap 2×6 pieces to the legs of the head board/ foot board so it will stand up on its own while you finish it. (See picture i posted below)
Lumber Used
I decided to put 1/2″ plywood on the backside of the headboard/footboard pieces vs doing slats on both sides. This turned out really nice and hides all the pocket screw holes. It also makes a smooth surface when you are laying in bed vs. feeling the slats with your feet. Not really sure if the wood list is correct because I have made a number of trips to the lumber yard but i will have spent about $250 on wood, screws, glue etc. when it is all done.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Upper Storage for a Garrity Modular Cubby! We covered the lower unit here, and now we complete this fabulous circle of furniture goodness…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 37-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 37-3/4” x 40-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 40-1/4” – Bottom
- 4 – 1×2 at 40-1/4” – Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 40-1/4” – Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 12” – Upper Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 12” – Lower Dividers
- 6 – ½” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Cubby Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Cubby Dividers
- 1 – ½” plywood at 12” x 40-1/4” – Cubby Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 41-3/4” – Top
- 1 – 1×3 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 41-3/4” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the sides and bottom of the back. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in the sides and back edge. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the stretchers, sides , and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the lower dividers, and the bottom and back only of the upper dividers. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the cubby dividers. Cut the notches in each piece as indicated. Assemble as shown and secure with glue. ** It may be easier to stand the vertical pieces in the cabinet first, then slide the shelf in. **
Insert into the cabinet, then secure with a few brad nails through the sides, shelf and bottom.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the trim. Rout a decorative edge at the top, if desired, then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Shopping
I am super duper excited to share a few things with you today! First and foremost my long time sponsor and a fave shopping haunt of mine has relaunched and rebranded with a whole new site called DecoraUSA. The new site features tons of new products which they are uploading daily! Yahoo. Please be sure to check things out, as it’s amazing sponsors like these that help keep this old blog running at full steam! I know you all love that, so I am giving a virtual high five to the folks at DecoraUSA and I hope you will too!
Also you may have noticed this article is a bit of a new feature… You see my sweet friend Brittany of Brittany Makes has a similar feature (ok it’s exactly the same), and you guys… I liked the idea so much I am completely and utterly copy catting her! Another virtual high five for her genius… which I clearly needed to borrow from.
Along these lines I will try and post 5 of my favorite finds from around the web each and every Friday (fingers crossed, you know how I’m slow as molasses).
In honor of the new DecoraUSA site I am choosing 5 fab side tables (an updated category) from their site. Now, normally the 5 items will not be of the same variety, but for the sake of my excitement, and the fact that I am on the hunt for side tables to use in my own home (see one I purchased here), I couldn’t help myself but round up a few eye catching specimens for this Friday I’m in Love post! Yay! I guess you can see from my choices I happen to seriously love the wire base tables at the moment.
This post brought to you as part of an ongoing series of articles sponsored by DecoraUSA.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Lower Storage for a Garrity Modular Cubby. This is such a fun piece and you all know how much I adore anything modular and with lot’s of storage so this is like a fabulous double whammy! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1x4at 4’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 37-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 40-1/4” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 33-1/2” x 40-1/4” – Back
- 3 – 1×2 at 40-1/4” – Stretchers
- 1 – 1×4 at 40-1/4” – Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 40-1/4”- Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 23-1/4” – Lower Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/4” x 18-3/4” – Middle Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 18-3/4”- Upper Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 41-3/4” – Top
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) at 41-3/4” – Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the detail using a jigsaw.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the sides and lower edge. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the stretchers, sides , and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the lower dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the detail using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the pieces. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the middle dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the pieces. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the upper dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the detail using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the pieces. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 8
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 9
Cut the piece for the trim. Rout a decorative edge at the top, if desired, then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Design / Uncat
Campy retreats and decor elements are all the rage, and I can’t help but get caught up in the moment along with the rest of you! I don’t typically have this happen, but I was so inspired by a One Kings Lane sale that rolled through my inbox that I created an entire mood board around it (almost never happens that I adore so many things in one curated sale). It’s a bit kitsch and campy to be sure, but wouldn’t it be so fun to have a kid’s room decked out in vintage vacation memorabilia? It would be a staycation of a truly different kind, but a fun and cozy one nonetheless…
For those of you who aren’t members of One Kings Lane, (this is not a sponsored post by the way), you are free to join here (referral link) and you will get the same fabulous sale emails I do. I have actually purchased 2 things from this place in the last month, which for me is definitely saying something! I will be sharing those things with you next week, yahoo!
All items in this mood board can be found here, with exception to the bed and the tent, both of which are from my own Monster Mash’s room. The tent now lives in our family room, but this is what his room looked like at our last house..
Uncat
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Francine Dining Chair, the materials listed are to construct ONE chair. Last week we covered the matching bench which pairs perfectly with this chair and the table (coming soon)… yahoo… Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×4 at 42” – Back Legs
- 7 – 1×3 at 16” – Back Slats & Stretcher, Front Stretcher
- 2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Side Stretchers
- 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 20-1/2” – Seat
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the 2×4 pieces for the back legs. Draw the back legs on the board as shown with the center 6-1/2” portion remaining straight. Cut one leg out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Trace this leg onto the other board and cut it out as well. Clamp the legs together and “gang sand” them so they will be virtually identical!
Cut the pieces for the back slats as well as the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Following the curve of the upper back legs and with 2” spacing between them, secure the slats using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Position the back stretcher on the legs as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs. Draw the angle as shown, then cut using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Secure the front stretcher to the legs (with the outside face flush with the outside face of the legs – the angle will face in) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. Cut the angle as shown, then drill pocket holes in each end. Note that there will be a right and a left piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches as shown. Apply edge banding, if desired. Position on the chair frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. / Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Showcase
These are some of the pics through out the build process. I figured that I have over 140 stainless Kreg screws in each chair. I also used tite bond ultimate glue. Finish is Olympic ultimate. This project was completely made of rough cedar from the saw mill. All boards finished out just over an inch thick.Pretty heavy duty lounge chairs but my intention was to build something that will last forever not just a few years.
Lumber Used
This project was completely made of rough cedar from the saw mill. All boards finished out just over an inch thick.Pretty heavy duty lounge chairs but my intention was to build something that will last forever not just a few years.
Finishing Technique
Finish is Olympic ultimate.
Showcase
I think it is human nature that in the bathroom nothing is ever returned to its proper place in the cabinet or drawers. Everything has a place on the counter. Well it looks kind of messy so I decided to try to organize just a bit. I figured that if a person is OK with laying something on the counter they might actually put it in a designated slot if their arm movement was the same as before.
So I just came up with a simple box that is 22″ long and 7″ wide and it contains 12 cubby holes or slots of varing sizes. Two have holes in their tops to put toothbrushes and razors. By the way since I live in a 60+ year old home that has never been updated the original toothbrush holder will no longer hold modern toothbrushes.
The picture can give you some idea of how it is supposed to work.
I took 1x4s from the scrap pile and re-sawed them using a band saw to produce a number of fairly thin (about 5/16″ ) thickness boards. Then through trial and error plus a lot of measuring of toiletry items I came up with the final product. The size of the box and the internal cubby holes and slots are really just a guess in hopes it is functional. It is held together with Tightbond II glue and some copper nails in strategic locations.
Estimated Cost
I just used what I had in the scrap pile so give the cost at $2
Length of Time
Two afternoons plus some time for staining . You could do it in an hour or so but you really should let the glue dry.
Lumber Used
Scrap pine 1×4 plus scrap l/8″ luan plywood for the bottom.
Finishing Technique
Stain covered by antiquing oil.
DIY / Home
This was one of those projects where context is the make or break of the result. You see, I made these curtains and they were super duper simple and I LOVED them, but when I hung them in my family room the result was a little bit…’Liberace called, and he wants his curtains back’… if you know what I mean! Frustrated, I decided to try them in my Master Bedroom. Since I had punched the clock on this project having to discard them would have been oh so sad, luckily they were dreamy in their new home and voila, a bit more like Kate Spade than Liberace. Done deal… and now I love them.
This project is easy to replicate for any of you at home and you can use any color of tape you like for a completely custom look!
MATERIALS
To make 4 curtain panels, all you need is a 9×12 canvas drop cloth and 11 rolls of tape (1.88 inch size) in your choice of color
You can see the glam gold curtains better in the photos above, and the application was made really simple with a bit of Scotch Blue Painter’s Tape.
Begin by cutting your canvas drop cloth in half, making it 6ft x 9 ft. There is a seam in this location already so simply separate the two sections.
Then apply your first strip of tape as close to the top seam as possible (your panel will run 6 ft across by 9 ft down so your stripes will run 6 ft in length). Once you have your first stripe in place, overlap your second strip by a tiny bit. I used the strings inside the tape as a guide and overlapped the first one.
2 strips will equal 1 stripe and then you will move on to the painters tape as an easy way of demarcating the proper stripe dimension. You will place 2 strips of painters tape in precisely the same way and then repeat with the gold. I actually removed the 2 blue strips and replaced them below my next gold stripe so that I actually only used a very small amount of painters tape to complete this and it saved a ton of time this way. The 2 strips of painters tape will stick together and you can simply restick them as a whole below your subsequent gold stripe.
Easy peasy. Once I finished both halves of the huge drop cloth, I simply cut each one in half again so that they measured 3 ft across by 9 ft in length. Done and done.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Abigail Desk, complete with fold down extension!! Yahoo, right? Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge Banding
- 6 small cabinet pulls
- 1 larger cabinet pull
- 1 set of 14” drawer slides
- 1 set of hinges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 25” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 25” – Back Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 5-1/2” – Drawer Spacers
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Spacers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 29” – Desk Top
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 7-3/4” – Hutch Dividers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 8” – Hutch Shelves
- 3 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 8” – Hutch Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 7-1/4” x 27” – Hutch Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 28” – Hutch Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 21” – Large Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 12-1/2”- Large Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Large Drawer Front
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 6-1/4” – Small Drawer Bottoms
- 12 – ¾” plywood at 2-7/8” x 6-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
- 12 – ¾” plywood at 2-7/8” x 7-3/4” – Small Drawer Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 29” – Extension
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the panel opening (and won’t have to be filled). Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making the back side of the panel flush with the inside of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back frame and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the panel opening (and won’t have to be filled). Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making the back side of the panel flush with the inside of the frame.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws orienting the pocket holes away from the opening.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Attach the vertical spacers to the legs inside the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the horizontal spacers inside the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.
Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of each piece. Secure to the desk top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the hutch shelves. The ¾” shelves will be secured to the desk using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in one side only of each ½” shelf. Secure the shelves one at a time by securing the end with the pocket holes into the divider first, then securing the other side with 1-1/4” brad nails until all three shelves have been installed.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the hutch back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the hutch top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the larger drawer. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer sides, as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown, then install the drawer sides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the piece for the drawer front and drill the holes for the position of the cabinet pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. Finish drilling the holes for the cabinet pull, then install the pull.
Step 9
Cut the pieces for the small drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer sides, as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown. They should fit in the opening with a 1/8” gap at the sides and top.
Step 10
Cut the piece for the extension. Position on the desk top, then install the hinges.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Portsmouth Cocktail Table. Well I promised you guys a table, though this isn’t the table I was referring to! But I liked this plan so much I decided to wing it and share it first! Yahoo! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 6 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for drawer fronts, optional
- 2 sets of 24” drawer slides
- 2 cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 18-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 25” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 25” – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 44” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 44” – Back Panel
- 3 – 1×2 at 4” – Drawer Dividers
- 3 – 1×2 at 25” – Drawer Spacers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 45” – Top Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 25” – Top Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 48” – Top Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/8” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 19-7/8” – Drawer Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 20-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the tapers in each side (opposite of each other) as shown using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.
Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Position the frame pieces on the leg with the leg tapers facing to the side and the pocket holes facing away from the panel opening. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel inside the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the back frame and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Position the frame pieces on the leg with the pocket holes facing away from the panel opening. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel inside the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers on the leg with the pocket holes facing away from the panel opening. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Drill pocket holes in each end of one piece only. Secure this piece to the center divider and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the outer drawer spacers to the side panels using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the top panel and frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the side frame pieces to the sides of the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the remaining frame pieces in the same manner.
Position the top on the table frame so that ½” overlaps on all sides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions positioning them ¾” back from the front edge. For an easy tutorial on drawer slide installation, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and drill the holes for the position of the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here. Finish drilling the holes for the hardware and install the cabinet pulls.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
