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Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Two-Door Campaign Side Table! On Wednesday we covered the 3 Drawer Campaign piece, and today the 2 door! Yay! The leg assemblies and the flat plates can be spray painted in a metallic color for the most authentic look. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 3’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding, if desired
- 3 cabinet pulls
- 2 sets of hinges
- 1 set of 16” drawer slides
- 4 – 3” x 3” Flat Angle Plates
- 4 – 3” x 3” Flat T Plates
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 6-1/4” – Legs
- 8 – 1×2 at 5-1/2” – Leg Braces
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 36” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 18-3/4”- Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 34-1/2”- Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – 1×2 at 12-1/4” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 2 – 1×6 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-5/8” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the leg braces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each of the leg braces. Attach to the leg using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the legs to each corner using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the stretcher and divider, and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pull and drill the holes. Install the drawer box, then shim the drawer front in place. For an easy tutorial on how to install drawer fronts, click here. Finish drilling the holes for the drawer pulls, then install.
Step 8
Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.
Paint the angle and bracket hardware as desired, then install.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Had some difficulty getting the angles of the supports just right but eventually it all fit together well. The stain turned out better than I had anticipated when I first started applying and hopefully will stand up to years of outdoor New England weather. These are great plans and result in a very solid table and benches!
Modifications
No modifications except for the hole for the umbrella
Finishing Technique
Two coats of Behr transparent weatherproofing all in one finish. Cedar naturaltone
Showcase
Finishing Technique
Minwax oil-based stain, Jacobean
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Campaign Three-Drawer Dresser, by special reader request, and a fabulous one at that! yahoo! The leg assemblies can be spray painted in a metallic color and the decorative L shaped flat plates can be made to match by spraying them as well, even though they will be metallic already. This is a fun and fabulous, yet very simply build so I can’t wait to see all of the variations of color you folks choose! Xx… Rayan
Ps… did you guys see the amazing Reader Showcase posts we had yesterday? Just phenomenal… to see those, click here and here or simply visit our Showcase Gallery to browse them all!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 3’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding, if desired
- 3 drawer pulls
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 4 – 3” x 3” Flat Angle Plates
- 4 – 3” x 3” Flat T Plates
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 6-1/4” – Legs
- 8 – 1×2 at 5-1/2” – Leg Braces
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 36” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 18-3/4”- Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 34-1/2”- Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 6 – 1×6 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the leg braces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each of the leg braces. Attach to the leg using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the legs to each corner using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble the drawers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Install the drawer box, then shim the drawer front in place. For an easy tutorial on how to install drawer fronts, click here. Finish drilling the holes for the drawer pulls, then install.
Step 8
Paint the angle and bracket hardware as desired, then install.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Showcase
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Bench. We covered the plans for the table, and have covered quite a few plans from this collection already, so go forth and build away! The bench can easily be extended by simply increasing the length of the top boards. An extra connector will need to be used in the center of the top if you choose to do this, but otherwise you can make this bench to your ideal length and enjoy as a custom build! Yahoo! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 10 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 6’
Materials
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 10 – 2×4 at 58” – Top
- 20 – 2×4 at 18” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 15” –Connectors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
2×4 boards are rounded at the edges. If this look is not desired, the boards can be squared off using a table saw but it will change the height of the table slightly. To compensate for this, add to the height of the legs accordingly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the top. Cut the miters in one end of each leg and both ends of each top board at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill a pocket hole in one mitered end of the legs, as well as both mitered ends of the top. Secure the legs and the top boards to each other using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Stack each assembly using a bead of glue in between them. The last assembly can be flipped over so the pocket holes face inside and won’t have to be filled. Clamp the entire assembly together.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the top connectors and position them as shown securing them using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Shopping
I think this is going to be a match made in TDC feature heaven… I hope you guys like this new column as much as I like sharing it. To see the first article in this series, click here, and to follow along with this feature click here.
I have my home office on the brain, as it were, because it’s one of the rooms in my house that is total chaos. It has so much potential and yet I have procrastinated working on it because there is so much to do in there it’s ridiculous. I am planning on diving into the nightmare this weekend and hopefully have something fruitful to show you soon! This little brass pencil holder is perhaps the perfect motivation to start the purge and organization process..
I don’t know about you guys, but I still have a major love affair with all things Juju hat wall decor. Alas I can hardly afford one, and even a good DIY is a bit pricey, but I heart this bad boy in black just the same!
I found a whole new take on the topical pillow pattern, don’t you love these? Squeal… The rug pictured above is perfect for my boy’s room. Nice and dark yet still graphic and bold, and the price… oh it’s just too good to be true. When it comes to campaign pieces like this chair, I fall hard my friends… I have had a ‘thing’ for campaign pieces for as long as I can remember and this chair is oh so good!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Dining Table! This table can easily be extended by adding to the length of the top boards, as well as the stretcher. An extra connector will need to be used in the center of the top, but otherwise increase in length all you like! It’s practically custom! Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 26 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 26 – 2×4 at 62” – Top
- 28 – 2×4 at 27-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 39” – Top Connectors
- 2 – 2×2 at 21” – Leg Connector
- 2 – 2×4 at 21” – Leg Connector
- 1 – 2×4 at 25” – Stretcher
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
2×4 boards are rounded at the edges. If this look is not desired, the boards can be squared off using a table saw but it will change the height of the table slightly. To compensate for this, add to the height of the legs accordingly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each leg piece. Secure the legs to the top boards using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. (There will be twelve top boards left over).
Stack the leg and top assembly boards together adding a bead of glue before adding the next assembly. The pocket holes on the last assembly can face in so they will not have to be filled. Stack the remaining top boards on each side (six to a side) adding a bead of glue to each board, then clamp the entire stack together.
Cut the pieces for the top connectors and position them on the bottom of the top boards along the outside of the legs. Secure to each top board using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the leg connectors. Attach the 2×2 connectors at the inside of each leg and also to the top boards using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. Attach the 2×4 connectors to the legs as shown using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.
Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Center it on the lower connectors then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Showcase
Thanks for the plan! I made a version for my wife, using old farm lumber.
Home / Shopping
This monthly series is sponsored by Denio’s Farmer’s Market & Swap Meet
There is an elephant in the room, to be sure, luckily he’s a cute little brass elephant and I love him! I am on the hunt for fabulous accessories to finish out my family room design (and for every room of my home truthfully) and this beauty was the perfect addition.
I am working on a huge project right now, and by huge I mean awesome! I can’t wait to show you… I’m almost finished, squeal… and this cute little guy rooting me on is just what I need!
To see the other articles in this series and the other amazing pieces I have rounded up at Denio’s, click here.
And of course to see other tidbits of my family room as it has been developing, click here. I warn you it changes almost daily. You can see all the articles that show areas of my home by clicking or hovering on the Home Life menu tab, and then clicking over to the Home Tour menu page from there. I try and be fairly diligent in updating my actual Home Tour page, so feel free to browse through those images often, since they change… a lot!
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Queen Sized Alpine Bed. I love the clean lines with that modern vibe this bed has. This beauty will be easy to build and a fabulous addition to any room, not to mention the accidental shelf that is created at the top of the headboard… that baby will come in handy for setting things. Don’t you love that? I do… Xx… Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 23 – 1×3 at 6’
- 6 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 4-1/2” – Foot Frame & Support Legs
- 1 – 2×2 at 64” – Foot Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 90” – Sides
- 2 – 2×2 at 26-1/8” – Headboard Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 5” – Headboard Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 32” – Headboard Legs
- 3 – 2×2 at 61” – Headboard Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 61” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 61” – Headboard
- 3 – 1×2 at 81” – Slat Supports
- 23 – 1×3 at 61” – Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
** Please read the instructions thoroughly… There are areas where no glue will be used for disassembly purposes.**
Cut the pieces for the foot frame and foot frame legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each leg. Secure to the frame piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the foot frame using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE! (It may need to be disassembled some day!!)
Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Attach the side piece to the legs using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws only.
Cut the pieces for the headboard frame. Cut the angles at 5.5 degrees in both ends of the vertical pieces, and the front edge only of the smaller horizontal piece. Drill pocket holes in the lower end of the longer pieces and the angled end of each smaller piece. Remember – there will be a right side and a left side! Attach the pieces to each other using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the headboard legs also using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. When attaching to the side pieces, use 2-1/2” pocket hole screws but DO NOT USE GLUE! This way, if the bed has to be disassembled, the entire headboard will be one piece and the sides will be separate.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the headboard stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown with the upper stretcher located ¾” down from the top of the leg, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the shelf and cut a 5.5 degree bevel in one long edge. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the headboard frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the headboard and cut a 5.5 degree bevel in the top edge. Drill pocket holes on the opposite side of this edge, as well as each shorter edge. Secure to the headboard frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slat supports and support legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of each slat support as well as one long edge of two of the support pieces.
Position the legs on the bottom of the “plain” support (the one with pocket holes at each end) and secure to this piece using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the support into the legs. Attach to the headboard frame and foot frame using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws – NO GLUE! The bottom edge of the support will be flush with the bottom edge of the frames.
Attach the other two support pieces to the sides using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. It is ok to use glue to attach these pieces to the side pieces only (so that they are one piece) but DO NOT USE GLUE when securing the pieces to the headboard frame and foot frame.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the slats. They will be spaced approximately 1” apart except at the headboard and foot frame where the spacing will be approximately ¾”. Secure to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws and NO GLUE!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
