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Showcase
This is the coffee table I built my girlfriend. It took less than a couple hours to build but weeks upon weeks to paint because of rain and work.
The lumber I used was Poplar legs and sides with a Birch plywood and poplar banding. The pain was three coats of Plymouth Blue Oil base. The legs are 2×2 the sides are 1×4 and the top is 3/4 birch with 1×2 poplar banding.
Estimated Cost
I would say cost was around 75.00 for materials and paint.
Length of Time
2 hrs to build weeks upon weeks to finish because of weather and work.
Modifications
The original plans had drawers and ws longer, she chose to have it built simple.
Lumber Used
Poplar legs and sides with Birch plywood top with Poplar banding.
Finishing Technique
3 coats of oil base paint Plymouth Blue. I think I might put a fourth coat on the top.
Showcase
My daughter-in-law asked me to make her a Bat House. I thought it was a joke until I researched the subject and discovered that there is all kinds of interest in protecting our bat population. One way to help is to provide them with safe homes to live, grow, entertain, and raise families in. Bat Conservation International (and other organizations) provide plans to build bat houses. They are very easy to build unless, like me, you choose to inlay tile in the roof.
Building the bat house was fun and I hope it attracts only bats that will take care of a nice neighborhood.
Nothing special. I just followed the instructions for a single chamber bat house as presented by Bat Conservation International. I did add a roof.
Estimated Cost
Cost about $20. I had to buy one sheet of 2’x4′ exterior plywood (B-C), $4 on paint, and I spent $1 on images of bats but the rest I had in the garage.
Modifications
I added a roof that was not in the plans.
Lumber Used
Exterior plywood, pine and cedar for the roof.
Finishing Technique
Kona stain in the interior. Spray satin enamel on the exterior. Any old stain on the roof. Of course lots of sanding.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Provence Beam Benches! Several of you have built benches to match your Provence Beam Dining Tables (plans for those are listed just below), like you see in this Builders Showcase: Provence Beam Dining and Benches, but we never officially posted the plans. Now the rest of you who are interested in having the matching set can do just that without having to hurt your brain with the math involved! This plan includes 2 options, one for a shorter bench that can be doubled up on each side of your table, just like you see in this Reader Showcase… and also a larger version if you prefer a single bench on either side! Yahoo! The benches are constructed in exactly the same manner. The longer bench is the one shown in the drawings, as noted, so be sure to check the cut list for each bench for dimensions. Xx… Rayan
Plans for the tables:
Free Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Provence Beam Dining Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Restoration Hardware Inspired 8′ Provence Beam Dining Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Provence Beam Dining with 4×4’s
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
For the longer bench:
- 5 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 10’
- 3 – 2×6 at 10’
For the shorter bench:
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 3 – 2×6 at 6’
For either bench:
- 4 – 2×4 at 15-7/16” – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 11-3/4” – Side Frame Connector
- 2 – 2×4 at 12-1/2” – Side Stretchers
For the longer bench:
- 3 – 2×4 at 93” – Seat Supports
- 1 – 2×4 at 97” – Stretcher
- 2 – 2×4 at 22-5/8” – Trusses
- 3 – 2×6 at 120” – Seat
For the shorter bench:
- 3 – 2×4 at 40” – Seat Supports
- 1 – 2×4 at 37” – Stretcher
- 2 – 2×4 at 12-3/16” – Trusses
- 3 – 2×6 at 60” – Seat
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 9 degree bevel in each end (opposite of each other). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end as indicated in the drawings.
Cut the pieces for the connector. Secure the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The frames will resemble an “A” shape.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and cut a 9 degree angle in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end as shown. Position as shown (3” up from the floor) then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretchers will be flush with the outside edge of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the connectors as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The boards will be spaced at approximately ¾”.
Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the stretcher so it is centered on the side stretchers, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the trusses and cut the angles in each end as shown. Also, drill pocket holes in each end. Position the trusses so that they are centered on the center seat support as well as centered on the stretcher. Secure to the support with the edge flush with the side of the connector piece. (see the drawing)
Cut the pieces for the seat. Lay the boards out on a flat surface and position the seat frame on top of it. There will be a 10” overhang at each side. Secure the frame to the seat boards using countersunk 2-1/2” screws from the underside into the seat boards. Make sure to use plenty of screws to catch all three pieces!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. / Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Home / Studio
I had this frustrating moment several weeks ago while trying to photograph my bed for the blog, when I realized I had no less one million pillows on my bed and only two of them were actually the same size and shape. Do any of you have this problem too? Ugh, it’s annoying and it makes for a very messy and dysfunctional process of trying to get comfortable at night or worse yet, attempting to make things work with the bedding I currently have on hand. I don’t exactly own 12 matching pillow cases, or even coordinating cases. While I can’t yet discard the typically unnecessary number of pillows on the bed, since I still need them for mothering this baby bird of mind, I can do a few things to streamline and improve upon the situation and I will share some of my tips with you next week!
Rewind a bit and I will tell you that when the amazing folks at Sleep Number® asked me if I might try out one of their pillows based on my personal comfort profile, a fairly custom experience I might add, I literally begged and pleaded with them to allow me the distinct pleasure of testing out two of their pillows for fear of once again adding a single solitary non matching pillow to my already rag tag group of misfits. And of course I mentioned it would be for my husband, but let’s be real folks, matching symmetrical pillows on the bed are important to me and that’s just a fact. It’s crucial to have that balance or it just feels sloppy. Am I right?
Now I will tell you that I was supposed to post this review quite some time ago, but in my typical new mama to the bird fashion, I am working in slow motion. But what a stroke of luck for all of you because if you were so inclined to desire this experience for yourselves, it looks like every single one of the pillows in this collection are all currently on sale! Woot woot. Honestly that’s kind of huge because my one single solitary complaint about this product is that for me, the price isn’t something I would typically feel comfortable shelling out for a pillow, especially considering how many I would need to ease my chaotic slumbering situation. And when I say my ONLY cause for pause, that is quite literally the truth. I don’t typically do product reviews on this site, but my experience with this particular little luxury was amazing enough that it’s worth it to me to interrupt our regularly scheduled programming to chat at you for a minute about this glorious specimen.
If you are able, check out this super duper quick video on the Sleep Number® AirFit™ Adjustable Pillow. It will rock your socks off! No joke…
So I didn’t end up choosing that particular pillow because it wasn’t my personal ideal based on this short quiz, (which is definitely something you should do if you have a second, at the very least it gives you food for thought on your sleep habits) and in fact I chose the Sleep Number® CoolFit™ Foam Classic Pillow. Oddly enough it was the perfect pillow for the hubster too, so we lucked out big time that our potentially non matching pillow ideals were in fact the same! Yahoo.
Isn’t she beautiful, the image above is the exact pillow for me! Those squishy gooey waves are divine. I’m in love, and love is an understatement. We actually went out of town recently and we both brought our pillows with us so we didn’t have to use something inferior… Ha! Just saying the words ‘inferior’ and ‘pillow’ in the same sentence is something I never thought I would hear coming out of my mouth. I typically buy the cheap $3 pillows from target so I can purchase them in bulk, so inferior is quite possibly the understatement of the year. I honestly didn’t even find those $3 pillows uncomfortable, even after they have been washed 500 times. But I had never experienced a sleep luxury so I didn’t really have something to compare it to. And yes, I wash my pillows in the washing machine. That may sound like blasphemy to you, but believe me, as a house guest of mine, it’s something you can appreciate. Who wants to sleep on someone else’s drool? Even if there is a pillow cover in between… It’s still kind of ew.
So now, my 5 year old boy is actually upset that he doesn’t have one and sneaks off with one of ours, on the regular. Perhaps I should known, but in all honesty I wasn’t really focused on anything other than the match factor. I definitely didn’t expect it would become something I don’t even leave home without. Feels kind of exciting like I’m a grown up now.
Anyhow, my pillow is quite truly so very lovely and if you are in the market for an improved sleep experience, I recommend you take this quiz, then shop for your individualized pillow! Hurry while they are still on sale!
Disclosure: I was provided with 2 pillows to take for a test drive, from the kind folks at Sleep Number. All opinions, ramblings, and musings are 100% my own.
Design / Shopping
It's Friday and I'm in love with these 5 fab finds! I want each and every one of them in my very own home! The Mint and Gold Scattered Circles Pillow is just adorable and is a fabulous color combo. Love those spots of course.. The Origami Coffee Table is such a fun shape and a great size especially for those spaces that really need something more round than square. A sexy hexy shape is the perfect compromise. This Planter Cover in Chevron is such a smarty thing in that you can essentially use it to slip right over an inexpensive plastic pot. This is such a great way to avoid shelling out a ton of money every time your plant outgrows it's habitat, though I wish it came in a larger size. I simply adore the Bruno Double Arm Floor Lamp and can think of 4 or 5 different places I want to put it in my house! Maybe it will be a rotating light fixture and I can move it around every month or so. The Night and Day Convertible Sofa is super duper cool and pretty much genius… it folds flat into a bed! That makes it a tad like a mid century mod futon that looks nothing like a futon. So awesome…
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Three Drawer Charger Cabinet! That's right my friends, we still have quite a few more plans to post in the Original Office Collection and this three drawer charging unit is quite the fabulous addition to the bunch! Yahoo! Xx… Rayan
Ps…The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Brad nailer
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” – Trim
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/8” x 18” – Charger Drawer Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 15-1/8” – Charger Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 15-1/8” – Charger Drawer Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 4-9/16” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 14-7/8” – Small Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Small Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Large Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Large Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Large Drawer Front
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.
Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the charger drawer. Cut the notches in the back piece as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the front and back pieces to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cube Wine Shelf Storage! With the holiday season upon us, this stackable wine storage is the perfect gift for family and friends! Perhaps also the perfect accessory for all of the holiday gifts you receive from the office, store your wine in style! Xx…Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – ½” square dowels at 3’
- 5 – ¾” square dowels at 3’
- 1 quarter sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- ½” brad nails
- 1-” brad nails
- 1-1/2” brad nails
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×2 at 19” – Bottom Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 7-1/2” – Bottom Frame
- 4 – ¾” square dowels at 15-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 (ripped to 1” wide) at 19” – Top Frame
- 2 – 1×2 (ripped to 1” wide) at 7-1/2” – Top Frame
- 6 – ¾” square dowels at 14-1/4” – Dividers
- 6 – 1×2 at 10-1/2” – Wine Bottle Supports
- 9 – 1×3 at 10-1/2” – Wine Bottle Supports
- 2 – ½” square dowels at 17-1/2” – Top Supports
- 2 – ½” square dowels at 8” – Top Supports
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 9” x 17-1/2” – Top
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 19” – Back
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the lower frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails through the bottom frame into the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the top frame. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails through the top and bottom frames into the dividers.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the bottle supports. Cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Starting from the bottom, position the supports as shown, then secure to the legs or dividers using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails through the leg or divider into the support. Scrap lumber spacers can be used to make sure each “layer” is spaced evenly.
Cut the pieces for the top support. Attach to the inside lower edge of the top frame using glue and 1” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the spacers using glue and ½” brad nails.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the back. Secure as shown using glue and ½” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I stumbled across this build the other day and I had to share it with you guys! I try my best to track incoming links, for those of you with blogs who post about your builds from this site, but I’m not always successful. This time however, I hit the showcase jackpot baby! This build is beautiful, and I hope you show them some love by visiting their site and leaving them sweet comments about their hard work. It definitely paid off! The link to their blog post is just below. Xx… Rayan
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 14 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- ½” diameter threaded rod with two nuts, approximately 20-1/4” long
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 32 – 1×3 at 20-1/4” – Sides (14 pieces will have a ½” diameter hole drilled in one end)
- 44 – 1×3 at 2-1/2” – Top & Sides
- 16 – 1×3 at 19” – Top & Base Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 15-1/4” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 20-1/4” – Back
- 24 – 1×2 at 2-1/2” – Door
- 13 – 1×3 at 16-3/8” – Door (All will have a ½” diameter hole drilled in one end)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
The table is constructed from the top down. Where indicated, there will be two pieces with a countersunk hole large enough to capture the nuts for the threaded rod which acts as the door hinge. Each piece should be finished before assembly, and the ends with the holes (for the threaded rod) should be coated with paste wax to allow the door to open and close smoothly.
Cut the pieces for the top. Layer the 19” pieces boards and 2-1/2” blocks securing each board and block with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 2
Position two 20-1/4” boards on the top as shown in the drawing. Drill a countersunk hole large enough to capture the nut for the threaded rod and position the board with the hole on the side where the “hinge” will be located.
Step 3
The next layer will consist of the 2-1/2” blocks, as well as the 16-3/8” board for the door. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
The next layer will consist of two 20-1/4” boards (one with the hole at the “hinge” side) and the door spacers. Secure the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Insert the threaded rod and tighten into the nut.
Step 5
Continue layering the blocks, side boards, door spacers, and door boards, fastening the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, until all of the door boards have been used.
Layer two 20-1/4” boards, one with a countersunk hole to capture the remaining nut. Fasten the boards in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert into the back of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in the two 14” edges. Secure to two of the 19” boards using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the entire piece to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 8
Layer the final four boards and four blocks then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Four-Drawer Campaign Side Table Dresser! This is the 3rd piece in this fab collection, the other 2 can be found here and here and the entire collection can be found here! The leg assemblies and the flat plates can be spray painted in a metallic color. Even though the flat plates will come in a metallic already, I would spray everything so that they match and appear uniform. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 3’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 4 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, if desired
- 4 cabinet pulls
- 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 4 – 3” x 3” Flat Angle Plates
- 6 – 3” x 3” Flat T Plates
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 6-1/4” – Legs
- 8 – 1×2 at 5-1/2” – Leg Braces
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 36” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 18-3/4”- Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 34-1/2”- Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – 1×2 at 5-3/4” – Divider
- 1 – 1×2 at 15-3/4” – Drawer Slide Support
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/8” x 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Sides
- 4 – 1×6 at 15-7/8” – Small Drawer Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Large Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Sides
- 4 – 1×6 at 33-1/2” – Large Drawer Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16-5/8” – Small Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the leg braces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each of the leg braces. Attach to the leg using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the legs to each corner using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the top. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the divider and drawer slide support. Drill holes at each end of the drawer slide support. Position the divider as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Position the drawer slide support then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble the drawers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pull and drill the holes. Install the drawer box, then shim the drawer front in place. For an easy tutorial on how to install drawer fronts, click here. Finish drilling the holes for the drawer pulls, then install.
Step 8
Paint the angle and bracket hardware as desired, then install.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
This was my first project built from this site and I'm very pleased with the results! The plans were very accurate and easy to follow. Thank you for providing such a great resource!
Estimated Cost
I used select pine from the orange big box store, which definitely added a lot to the project cost but it also saved me time by not having to deal with warped boards:
Lumber (3 armless units, one corner unit, 1 ottoman): $298.95
Stain (Cabot Semi-Transparent deck stain custom mixed color): $41.16
Total Furniture Cost: $340.11
I couldn't find cusions this size anywhere else so I waited till the end of season sale at PB and bit the bullet there. Despite this, the project saved roughly $500 or 37%.
Length of Time
This one is tough to estimate but I would say 20-30 hours becasue of all the individual sanding and staining of each board prior to assembly. Assembly itself was very straightforward and quite rewarding to see the pieces take shape.
Modifications
I followed the plans for the armless unit and corner unit exactly, but made my own plans for the ottoman. I had a little bit of trouble with the legs splitting when putting in the pocket screws so I set the aprons on the ottoman in about 1/2″ to help with this. It worked great and also added some additional asthetic quality in my opinion. If I were to build this project again I would modify the aprons on the other pieces to follow this, but it would require adjusting quite a few dimensions.
Lumber Used
As mentioned previously, I used select pine which is FSC certified. I was very impressed with the quality of it but it does come at quite a premium.
Finishing Technique
I used a semi-transparent deck stain from Cabot and custom mixed the color. This deck stain is supposed to protect from the weather but since this is pine, I will most likely add another layer of top coat protectant. Application was just with a brush according to the can's instructions.
