Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Mid Century Modern Credenza

09.27.13

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Mid Century Modern Credenza. This style is wonderful because of how easily it can mesh with other styles. I am not always a fan of pieces that are too matchy matchy, so mixing a modern piece with a vintage inspired piece or a traditional piece is a fabulous way to make your furniture look collected and intentional without it looking like you purchased it all from the same store! Don’t be afraid to mix it up my friends… Xx…Rayan

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$75-$100

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

  • 3 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 72-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 21” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 72-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 20-1/4” – Divider
  • 3 – 1×2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24” – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 47-3/4” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 47-3/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 74” – Top
  • 4 – 2×4 at 11-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 48” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11” – Base Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 11-3/4” – Base Support
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 6 – 1×6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 23” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 25-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 24-5/16” – Doors

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges of the bottom piece. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each side as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge.  Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face into the drawer area so they will not be visible.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front will overhang by ¾”.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 30 degree angle in each end. Mark the taper, then cut using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long stretchers and the short stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the cabinet). Secure to the legs (the top of the stretchers will be flush with the top of the legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the support piece. Position in the center of the longer stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the base frame on the bottom of the cabinet. It will be located 12” in from each side, and 3-1/4” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and pre-drill the holes for the handles. The drawer fronts will be flush with the left edge of the cabinet, and will overlap the drawer opening by ¼” at the top, bottom, and right side. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Position the second and third drawer fronts in the same manner with ¼” spacing between them.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid-Century Modern Credenza via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap between them, and the right door will be flush with the right edge of the cabinet, as well as overlap the top and bottom of the opening by ¼”. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments. Install the cabinet pulls.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

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Design / Home / Uncat

Style Files: Great Design It’s Always The Art

09.26.13
Project Image

This post created in partnership with Saatchi Online, all musings and ramblings are 100% my own.

When you are faced with great design it isn’t always easy to put your finger on exactly what makes a space feel amazing, but one thing is certain…. when it comes to the winning formula, a major factor is always the art. Always. In fact if it were up to me, I would perhaps weight the art factor higher than many other features of a room. In truth, a room might start out as being marginal at best, but when you add that amazing piece of art, suddenly marginal becomes out of this world and a room will sing to you in ways it never would have otherwise. The art sets the tone for the space and makes a statement about who you are as an individual. It’s hard to deny what your choice in art says about you, it’s the writing on the wall, so to speak. It’s without doubt the make or break of your space… so finding those pieces that you are willing to let define you, at least for that moment in time that they live with you, is often quite often the most difficult aspect of decorating your home. Not to mention the sheer number of choices. It’s enough to make your head spin.

Are you a bold graphic type of person? Or maybe you are abstract and colorful? What about the absence of ‘art’ or art that you can create on a whim? Perhaps you are more down to earth and like it real in the form of photography… or might you like it all, combined in a fabulous gallery wall?

One thing I can say for certain is that your space will feel unique if you have unique artwork or a unique arrangement of art. Buying original works is always an exciting and wonderful way to accomplish this, but it might not be the most affordable option for you, depending on what you like and how main stream it is. There are so many amazing sites out there that connect you with the artists directly and allow you to buy real pieces from them, in addition to prints. Never before has great art been so accessible. Don’t skimp on this step. And by skimp I don’t mean you need to spend a fortune… buy a print instead of the real deal if it fits your budget, or make your own…but don’t drop the ball on this aspect of design. It’s crucial…

The one thing every single one of these spaces has in common is the amazing artwork that takes the overall design up a notch or 5. I think a recurring series on found art might be a fun way to share some new ideas and sources with you guys. I will explore this idea a bit more… I am currently loving the community collections available at saatchionline.com. It’s fabulous to see the the pieces the guest curators put together and I love that for many of the pieces you have the option to buy the original or a print. Let’s face it, this brings art to a state that is affordable for most of us mere mortals.

I always love some vintage pieces thrown into the mix, that much is obvious given my penchant for vintage art purchases… but I love such a wide range of pieces that it’s hard to put my finger on precisely how I want to be defined. Seems like my love of art is subject to change like the wind, but I always love a good bold graphic and an abstract piece… always! This one is a current fave on mine and I love that it’s affordable.

What about you? What do you love? Do you change your mind all the time or is your preference for art more tried and true?

This post created in partnership with Saatchi Online, all musings and ramblings are 100% my own.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12

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Showcase

Reader Showcase: DIY Chesapeake Hampstead Outdoor Sectional

09.26.13
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: DIY Chesapeake Hampstead Outdoor Sectional

I still need to build the corner chair and the cushions should arrive later this week. I used Titebond III glue and a bucket of pocket hole screws. We will see if it holds up!

Built From These Plans 
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Chesapeake Armless Unit
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Chesapeake Corner Unit

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
DIY PotteryBarn Hampstead Outdoor Sectional

The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: DIY Chesapeake Hampstead Outdoor Sectional
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: DIY Chesapeake Hampstead Outdoor Sectional
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: DIY Chesapeake Hampstead Outdoor Sectional

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection CPU Cabinet

09.25.13
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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection CPU Cabinet! The components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Isn’t that fancy? Xx…Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 1 set of 18” drawer slides
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” – Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-5/8” x 18” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 18” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 15-1/8” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 5-6/16” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 17-3/16” – Door Base
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Upper False Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Lower False Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 2
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4

  Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5
Step 5

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the door. Position the false fronts on the base with a ¼” gap in between. Fasten in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges on the door, then position the door on the cabinet. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Showcase

Reader Showcase: Tile Top Provence Dining Table

09.24.13
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Tile Top Provence Dining Table

This is the Provence Dining Table, but modified to have tiles set into the top.  I've been dreaming of a table like this for years.  Last year, I built a brick patio with river rock pilasters to beautify my Craftsman house.  This table looks perfect on my patio, under the pergolas!  Can't wait for the wisteria to bloom in spring!

The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Tile Top Provence Dining Table
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Tile Top Provence Dining Table

I had to adapt the plans to accomodate the tiles (which I made myself and fired at a local ceramics studio.)  It was a lot more complicated than the regular Provence table.  I still don't know how it will hold up to the weather, but I live in Southern California, so I don't have to deal with freezing temperatures.  The sun is the main enemy.  And morning dew/occasional torrential rain.  I finished this table in the following way:  First, I sanded it through 80, 100, 120, 150, and 220.  Then I used my creme brulee torch very minimally to bring out the wood grain in the cedar.  Then I used vinegar with steel wool (very watered down!) to just darken and gray the surface a bit.  Then I used Zinsser shellac with a tiny bit of universal brown color, which I applied in about three coats for the base and maybe six coats for the top, sanding lightly between coats.  Then I went over everything with Minwax spar varnish, again several coats, more on the top, sanding very lightly (320 grit) between coats.  All this before I set the tiles, which I set onto Wonderboard Light fitted into the frame on top. 

The way I managed the tile top was that I used 1×6 cedar for the top of the table instead of 2×10, but 2×6 for the outermost pieces, then two short pieces of 2×6 for the end pieces (I cut an L-shaped lip out of the underside and screwed it to the 1×6's from underneath (the 1×6's were accordingly shorter than the full length of the table to accomodate these end pieces.)  The table is therefore the same height as it would have been had I made it according to the regular plan (which I found to be way too tall, see below.)

Problems I had: 

The legs, which I measured carefully according to the plans, were far too long, giving me a table height that I knew would have made me feel like a little kid.  I cut them down by a solid 1.5″, but when I placed the top in the base, the table was still far too high.  The problem was, now I had no reasonable way to cut the legs, since they were now irrevocably screwed/glued in place.  My husband helped me support the base, fully assembled, over the mitre saw (on the ground!) and we cut another 1.5″ off each leg.  It was precarious, very difficult, and the cuts weren't straight in the end.  Ultimately, I screwed some plastic feet into the bottoms of the legs in order to elevate them a tiny bit off the bricks of my patio, so the wood will have less chance to rot in the rain, so I guess the straightness of the cuts didn't matter too much.  

Because my table top has to support all those tiles, I had to give it extra support in the form of more crosswise 2x4s on the base.  Were I to do it again, I would have built the support into the bottom of the tabletop, rather than the base, so that the table top could be removed from the base for moving.  As it is, it is not only very heavy, but it must be moved by holding its base, which is very difficult and awkward.  

All in all, I loved this project!

Built From These Plans 
Free Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired 10' Provence Beam Dining Table

Estimated Cost 

$600, not counting the tiles

Length of Time 

About a month, not counting the tiles

Modifications 

Modified to create the space for the tiles.

Lumber Used 

Cedar

Finishing Technique 

Sanded, then lightly burned with a torch, then stained with diluted vinegar-steel wool, then shellacked with a bit of universal brown, then spar varnished

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Home / Shopping / Studio

Smart Thermostats Just Got a Whole Lot Smarter

09.23.13
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This post brought to you by Honeywell Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat with Voice Control. All opinions are 100% mine.

Installing a smart thermostat is one of those fabulous, somewhat luxe, yet totally simple upgrades you can make in your home, that will increase your standard of living and make your home work for you a bit more than it already does. It’s the little things like this that make a man feel like a king…. and by man, I obviously mean mankind, because we don’t discriminate here at TDC, am I right? One for all and all that jazz.

What If I told you that what you consider smart, just got a whole lot smarter? Consider yourself told… because that is precisely what I’m about to do!

Honeywell, a global energy efficiency leader, with products and technologies in more than 150 million homes today, introduced its latest connected home innovation: the Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat with Voice Control. Yep you heard me right… voice control! Yippee…

The new voice technology allows consumers to simply say, “Hello, thermostat,” to activate and control their home’s temperature. A first-of-its-kind consumer device (supa dupa cutting edge – just the way we like it, right?), the Honeywell Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat with Voice Control uses advanced far-field voice-control technology (say what?), which means…. that it cuts through the crazy noise from your kids and dogs (and spouses) and can recognize commands like: “make it four degrees warmer” or “make it much cooler” — even from across the room.

You see, people thought it was amazing when smart thermostats hit the marketplace and offered an app that would allow you to control your temperature from the comfort of your bed, using your phone or tablet. And indeed that is cool my friends, and this unit has that too. This is huge when you walk out the door for an out of town trip and you forget to adjust the temp accordingly while you are away. It’s not a happy place to come home to when you know you will be returning to a spendy energy bill. Especially when you forgot because you were distracted thanks to your kids who were fighting or just generally freaking out, while you were trying to get the car loaded up to leave (and you forgot your purse… this just happened to me actually, I speak from experience). Now you can rest easy because you can adjust your thermostat and energy usage from anywhere in the world, despite your squawking groupies in tow. You never have to worry that your pets will frizzle or freeze when that heat wave or cold front moves and you are at work. That is some serious peace of mind, no?

But that’s not all… no there is so much more… The voice control is just one of the major features of this unit that makes it a cut above the rest. No longer do you have to wrangle your phone from your kiddo, who is likely busy playing minecraft on it, or fumble in the dark while you are half asleep to adjust the temp using the app. Nope. For someone who is fairly temperature sensitive, like me, playing the ‘one foot in and one foot out’ game drives me crazy and messes with my ability to sleep. Having the ability to command my thermostat into submission with a few bleary eyed words in the night, makes my heart sing with joy. Can you tell this has been an issue in the past? I know you know what I mean!

If you prefer to set it and forget it, you can do that too, with an easy set scheduling feature for weekly, daily, even hourly temperature adjustments to suit even your most ‘diva like’ whims. Not to mention this baby will alert you when it’s time to change your filters (cuz I know you forget sometimes) and adjust for changes in humidity and local weather.

For those of you who are design inclined, like me, you can customize your screen to match or accent your decor, as often as you like (seasonally or for holidays even). This is a brilliant meeting of the minds where form and function blend seamlessly. I just love me some cool techie gadgets and a fabulous appliance that makes life easier and that much more convenient. There are so many other features this smarty arty unit can do that I haven’t even mentioned here (crazy right?). To see what else this baby can do, click here.

photo HONEYWELL_STRAIGHT_FINAL_zps1dc03c54.jpg

Isn’t she beautiful? This product will hit stores in early November, but is available online at Amazon, Best Buy and Home Depot… go forth my friends, and live like kings!

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Queen Sized Bed

09.23.13
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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Queen Sized Bed! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and more closely resemble the inspiration piece. This piece would be fabulous across from our Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet which could easily double as a fabulous media cabinet. Just love this collection… Xx…Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 20 – 1×3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×6 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8’
  • 12 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2×2 at 48” – Headboard Legs
  • 6 – 2×2 at 73” – Headboard & Footboard Stretchers
  • 8 – 2×2 at 7” – Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 73” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10” – Footboard Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 89” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2×4 at 61-1/2” – Support Frame
  • 2 – 2×4 at 89” – Support Frame
  • 1 – 2×2 at 82” – Center Support
  • 1 – 2×2 at 89” – Center Support
  • 2 – 1×6 at 65” – Slat Frame
  • 2 – 1×6 at 92” – Slat Frame
  • 20 – 1×3 at 65” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs, stretchers, support, and panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Assemble the headboard frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard stretchers, legs, and support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3

**For the remaining steps, DO NOT use glue so that the bed can be disassembled.

Cut the pieces for the side rails. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rail pieces as well as each end of the supports. Assemble as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the support frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of all four pieces, as well as one long edge of each shorter piece (to attach to the headboard and footboard). Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the center support. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat frame. Cut the notches in the top edge of the longer pieces using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the frame on the bed frame, then secure to the 2×2 framing pieces and 2×4 support pieces using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 7
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Design / Shopping

It’s Friday I’m In Love: Edition 7

09.20.13
Project Image

It’s Friday and I’m in Love! This week is no exception to the usual, and I am coveting some amazing finds!

While the subject matter might be a bit morbid, the use of color in this painting by artist Jennifer Mehigan is anything but. The colors alone make this print have a slightly more cheery dispoition while the season of light and sun is fading away outside. As your yard prepares to lose a bit of it’s luster, nurturing plants inside is the perfect way to practice at your green thumb and these brass containers add that extra bit of style to the whole process. Since lighting is a necessary evil for any space, it may as well be cute, no? I have loved this lamp from the first moment I laid my internet browsing eyes upon it, and the variety of colors it comes in make it even more precious! When a daily life staple can be made awesome like this brass hose and holder it makes my heart sing. If it must be out in the open, it should be just a bit fabulous at the least, don’t you think? I know you all love this Dalmation fabric and pattern (me too as you might remember here), and it has been sold out everywhere for a while, until now! Yahoo!

What about you, what are you currently coveting? Do your desires reflect the the current season or maybe the one that is ending?

For other articles in this series, click here

1. Painting

2. Brass Pots

3. Lamps

4. Gold Antler Holder and Gold Hose

5. Dalmation Fabric

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet

09.19.13
Project Image

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet! This starts another amazing collection of pieces that I am totally smitten with! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic the metal base of the inspiration piece, or you can make it uniform to your finish on the rest of the piece. I just love the fact that a build is so custom to your preferences! Xx…Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 4 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 2  sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 5 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2×2 at 10” – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 69” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2×2 at 7” – Supports
  • 6 – 2×2 at 15” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 72” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 23-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 70-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 70-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23” – Drawer Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 23” – Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-5/16” x 22-3/4” – Upper & Middle Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/16” x 22-3/4” – Lower Drawer Front
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” – Door Rails
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-1/4” x 17-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame, supports, and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame and support pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the top of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown noting that there will be a left and a right piece (this way the pocket holes are hidden inside the drawer bank). Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 10
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts noting that the bottom drawer front is taller. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the door frames and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Insert into the frame and secure using 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Home

Design Moments: Pictures of a Corner in My Family Room

09.17.13
Project Image

This room is still very much a work in progress. I was hoping to finish up last weekend, and the weekend before that, and the one before that… but life and babies get in the way of my DIY and design aspirations, on the regular! So, while A full reveal isn’t quite ready, since projects still need to be finished, I thought I might share one corner of this space that is finished, for now. At least kind of…

Much like I mentioned a little while back when I shared a corner in my nook with you, a room should be made up of many design moments. Each one of those design moments really needs to stand on it’s own. If you have an area of your space that looks good only in context with the rest of the space, it’s likely not quite finished. If you create enough design moments that you love, a fabulous room you will have made. It’s as simple as that. In a not so simple whatsoever kind of way, you know what I mean?

With small children still very much underfoot in this house, a kid friendly aesthetic is crucial to keeping my sanity. If it’s not a space the kids enjoy, it’s hard to find time as adults to enjoy it. If it’s too precious, there will be chaos… and broken things… many, many, broken things. Especially in a house full of boys (yes I am the ONLY female, including the dogs, eek). For me, a balance between live and play must be found because let’s face it, toys happen. Clever storage solutions, non-deadly furnishings, and toys that are beautiful enough to fit right in to the decor are just a few of the ways I like to handle this stage in my life. One day this won’t be necessary, and while the grass is always greener regardless of your current situation, I know I will look back on this era with such fondness, and so I embrace it.

True to form, this space of mine is eclectic, to say the least, collected over time and kid friendly with a mix of modern and vintage and a lot of color. For me, this is perfection. It may not be for everyone, in fact it’s quite likely for a very small few of you, but that’s not important… what is important is that it’s livable, and a mix of things I love. Somehow, if you stick to pieces you love wholeheartedly, when you mix them altogether, they have a way of working out. Style is more about proportion and placement than it is about the pieces themselves. Things go out of fashion, this will never change, but proper placement and proportion will always reign supreme. Here’s to hoping I didn’t at least screw that part up…

How do you deal with kids in the house? Hide the stuff away or make it work in plain sight?

Various Art:

Various Accessories

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Showcase

Reader Showcase: Hudson Bed

09.17.13
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Hudson Bed

My wife wanted the Hudson bed originally. I thought that'd be pretty tough to build. So, I thought I'd build the Farmhouse model. There are many resources on how to build that. I just added a lot of trim to make it look a bit closer to the Hudson model.

I don't think she thought I could really pull it off but she loves it! We also did it for half the price (main motivator) It's super sturdy and doesn't squeak.

The bed can completely disassembled for moving.

Built From These Plans 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a King Sized RBR Hudson Bed

The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Hudson Bed
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Hudson Bed

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry End Table

09.16.13
Project Image

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry End Table! Last week we brought you Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser and now the coordinating end table, yahoo! We still have one more piece in this collection and it’s perhaps the most exciting yet! Xx…Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1×4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 set of 14” drawer slides
  • One drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 1×2 at 18-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 16-13/16” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1×2 at 13-3/8” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1×2 at 26” – Lower Bracing
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 18-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 15” – Drawer Frame Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Frame Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 20” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1×4 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 17-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Drawer Front Base
  • Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the cross braces. The pieces are cut extra long so that the angle can be cut to fit the legs. Because the bracing will cross to create a rectangle, the notches will have to be cut at an angle (see drawing). In other words, the notch will not be perpendicular to the board. Mark the center of the board on one end face. Draw a mark 3/8” on either side of the center mark. Use a square to draw the notch at a 13 degree angle, ¾” deep. Cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

The bracing will be positioned on the legs 4” up from the floor. Assemble the bracing in an “X” and clamp to the legs to draw the angle for the cut. Cut using a jigsaw or miter saw, then drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer frame sides and back. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end of the sides. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the drawer slides to the inside of the frame. This will make them easier to install before the top is attached.

Step 5
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top and secure to the drawer frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer-side drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7

Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the bottom center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.

Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.

Step 8
Step 8

Mark the position for the drawer pull and drill the holes. Position the drawer front as shown then drive a screw through each hole into the drawer box behind it. Open the drawer, then secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes in the front and finish drilling the holes for the drawer pull. Install the drawer pull.
For an easy tutorial, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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