This outdoor corner unit, has filled a corner of my garden in Cyprus beautifully and will be even better when the cushions are made
You will have noticed that I took some liberties with the design to fit it into the pergola. The slope has also been taken off the back rail and width increased to 6″ to facilitate placing of beer etc. within easy reach
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land… At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like… Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.
Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
So… I installed crown molding in my home office this week… and it was the hardest and most frustrating experience I have had in a very long time… and I loved it! I’m quite literally covered in bruises and I have many a horror story to tell about the process. The good news is… it looks amazing (beauty is sacrifice, am I right?) and I lived to tell about it. Like all good stories, there is an underlying lesson to be learned, so with this complete guide I shall now provide, you lovely folks can go forth and install crown molding in any room of your home, with nary a scrape or kerfuffle (totally technical term).
I worked on this project in partnership with The Home Depot as part of the #LetsDoThis campaign and all to promote getting off your rear and getting those jobs done around your home that need doing! So true to form, #letsdothis my friends and I will jump right on into the deets of this how to!
But before I jump into the details, let me preface this post by saying the method to my madness here is that of the pro’s. There are quite possibly 1.7 million various methods for installing and cutting crown molding and I tried 1.5 million of them. I simply could not make any of them work for me. It seems silly… this is what I do after all… I’m a ‘builder’ by trade and build I could not do here. It was infuriating. I youtubed (totally a verb) and I how to’ed (also a verb) till I was blue in the face and still nothing worked out, not even close. I’m still not sure why to be perfectly honest because some of the methods I was just positive were going to be flawless. And then they weren’t. Not even close. There are a number of awesome jigs available on the market that claim to make this easy and fast, and yahoo for that! I tried 2 of them and could not make it work. I must have been missing something obvious, that is all I can figure. Why should they work for everyone else and not me? But they didn’t. Ugh. So… after an entire week of trial and error (mostly error) I finally decided to go old school, if you will, and stick with the tried and true method of the pros. And what do you know… it worked, after a bit a finagling because even that was not as self explanatory as most of the tutorials made it sound. Every single one seemed to leave out a huge key component that was utterly crucial. This how to helped me the most and is the basis for this tutorial I am outlining today. I am building on it just a bit for those of you, who like me, need every single detail spelled out. The method I will go into below is a bit more precise and detailed and involves a combination of squared edges along with mitered, beveled, and coped edges and will result in a very tight fitting piece of work! At least one can hope…
To complete this project, you will need all of the materials shown above in addition to a compound miter saw. You can also use any number of crown molding jigs if you do prefer, but again, this tutorial will focus on crown molding installation as the ‘pros’ tend to do it. Those ‘pros’, they know a thing or two…
Materials:
I find it extremely helpful to keep my supplies in an easy access bucket when I am up and down the ladder every few minutes. Keeps me light on my feet and organized!
Overview:
We will work this project beginning with one piece that will be squared off on both ends and will be installed on the wall opposite the door, preferably. Then you have the option of doing the same for the opposite wall (to this first wall) and then making fancy corners for both edges of the two remaining boards (Installation Option 1).
OR
You can do what the pro’s tend to do and work in a pattern with the second piece of molding for the adjacent wall (to the first) that will have one squared edge and one fancy edge, then do the same for the 3rd wall adjacent to that (and opposite the first wall), and for the 4th wall you will make both edges fancy (Installation Option 2).
This is entirely up to you and won’t make much of a difference except that you will only cut left inside corners for the 2nd and 3rd pieces in the second option above and will cut both corners on the last board, whereas in the first option above you will only cut fancy edges on 2 of the boards and you will do both edges for those. Regardless you will make a total of 4 fancy schmancy cuts.
Let’s get down to business. You should absolutely measure and mark out the location of where your molding should sit, on all 4 of your walls. If you install even an 1/8″ lower or higher than you should it will throw off your angles substantially. This is where I like to use a framing square, because for me it gives me a more accurate measurement. I simply slide it along the ceiling line and mark at my measurement. I get crazy with a tape measure sometimes and my dimensions aren’t always accurate especially when I’m working in the very tiny fractional measurements.
When I am working alone (or even when I’m not) I find it extremely helpful to install a support board just under where my molding will sit. This provides me a bit of extra help in holding my molding in place and also keeps me working at exactly the right measurement, all along the wall. You can also use Blue Painter’s Tape to give yourself a proper, and very visual, demarcation if you prefer. It works beautifully and will keep you from having to erase or paint over all of those crazy pencil marks!
Measure out the length of your longest wall or the wall opposite your door, and cut a piece of crown molding to fit. For this first piece, both ends will be squared off and cut at 90° (or a 0° angle on your saw) while the molding rests flat on your saw (on flat).
Find the studs along this wall and be sure to attach your molding to the studs at every opportunity possible. You may also feel the need to secure in between the studs, but attaching to the stud’s will ensure that your molding won’t come crashing down at any given moment (hopefully).
Attach using your nail gun, and place your finish nails or brad nails along the top and bottom of your molding.
This is the only piece you will install that will have 2 squared off edges if you choose the second installation option above, and if you choose the first installation option, do this exact same series of steps for the wall opposite this first wall, before you continue on.
When you are ready to continue on to a piece that requires some fancy cutting, you will need to determine which type of corner you are working with before you can start cutting. This step is somewhat crucial and can get confusing along the way, so pay close attention.
The type of corner is always determined when viewing from the corner view like you see above. In other words, when you are looking at the corner itself. I will show you below how this gets a tad crazy from the ‘wall view’ in the next step, so just remember each and every corner is it’s own entity and the particular cut you will make is determined by looking at the corner itself!
From this view (seen above), this is a fairly logical step. The left side is the left inside corner and the right side is the right inside corner. Determining the left versus the right here is easy to peg since they do in fact fall on the appropriate sides, and they are all considered inside corners if they are corners in a standard 4 walled room that doesn’t have any pop outs or carve outs. Easy peasy, right? No matter which corner you are looking at, it will follow this pattern. No matter what!
But… things get a tad crazy when you are facing the wall because then your corner types are in fact opposite. As you can see above, the left side of the molding will actually need to be cut as a right inside corner since that is which side of the corner it resides on, while the right side of your molding will need to be cut as a left inside corner… again since that is which side of the corner it happens to reside on. If you don’t label your board appropriately, it’s easy to forget which is which when you are cutting. So before you head out to your saw, mark your molding properly with the right side of the molding labeled as a left inside corner and the left side marked as a right inside corner. Your pencil is your friend here. Trust me on that!
The image above shows you approximately how your cuts will look depending on which side you are cutting, or if you are cutting both sides for example. I am showing you this because again it tends to be a bit counterintuitive to how you might think your cuts should look when you are mitering two corners together, but it all works properly, I promise.
Once you have labeled your side with the proper corner type, you will need to find your spring angle. This is the other crucial step in this project because in combination with the angle of your wall, at the corner in question, the spring angle will help determine the angle you miter and bevel at. Very important indeed.
To find your molding spring angle you will need to use your angle finder tool (link in materials above) set along that portion of your molding as shown by the yellow line above. Your angle finder tool will likely come with directions and pictures, but just in case I am showing you where it needs to sit in order to take the measurement properly. Molding comes in a variety of spring angle varieties, but the most common tend to be 38° and 45° so we will work with those spring angle options here.
Using the same tool, measure the true angle of your wall at the corner you are working on. While we all like to believe our home is perfection, it’s very likely you may have a corner or two that are off a tiny bit and might actually be closer to 88° or 91°. These slight discrepancies will make a big difference to the fit of your molding so find your true measurements before you cut.
I have created a chart for you below, for both 38° and 45° spring angles and wall angles ranging from 70° to 110°. Just find your numbers and go forth in bliss…
If you have a different spring angle for your molding you will need to find a crown molding angle finder app or tool on the web to help you calculate your proper miter and bevel angles. I used the Crown Molding Angle Finder App for iPhone and it worked beautifully! If you prefer to calculate on your computer or via the web, this tool is fabulous!
My molding had a 38° spring angle and my walls did in fact have 90° angles (who knew?) so I was working with a 31.62° miter angle and a 33.86° bevel, which funny enough had marked indicators on my miter saw (thank you Ryobi). That made me feel like I was clearly on the right track! It’s the little things, no?
Once you have your miter and bevel angles determined, it’s time to set your saw and molding up for a proper cut!
The image above shows the setup for a left inside corner cut. Your miter angle will be to the right and your bevel to the left with the top of your molding against your saw fence and your molding laying flat. You will be keeping the material to the left of your cut.
For a right inside corner cut, the image above shows your proper setup. You will set your miter angle to the left this time and you will flip your molding so the bottom edge rests against the saw fence. Your bevel will sit to the left and you will be keeping the material to the left of your cut, just as with the left inside corner cut previously.
For my process, regardless of whether I am only making one fancy edge or two, I prefer to miter and bevel both edges or miter and bevel one edge and square the other, then check for proper fit before I begin the coping. Coping is a tad exhausting and so I would rather adjust for length and fit before I take the plunge and then have to redo it if the fit is off.
When you are measuring for length on pieces that will be for the other walls aside from the first wall, I find it helpful to measure both the short and long length, just to give me a guide. The dimension you will definitely need is from the bottom of the molding you have already installed to the opposite edge of the wall or to the bottom edge of the molding on the opposite wall (depending on your installation option). Basically bottom edge to bottom edge since that will be your long length, so to speak (to get a visual of this, refer to the step above with the direction of the cuts diagram).
If your general length fit is fabulous you can cope to remove material for an even more perfect fit. I find it easiest to mark along the curvy edge of the molding as a bit of a cutting guide. You will essentially use your coping saw to carve away material from the back side of that edge. You will want to carve along that edge as precisely as possible and remove, quite literally, as much of the material behind it as you can. The more you remove, the better and more precise your fit. You can see above what it will look like from behind. You may also need to square off your bottom edge for a nice tight fit.
Check your fit again, this time to see if you have removed enough material from behind or if you need to remove a tad more.
Install your remaining pieces with your nail gun, just as you did your first piece, by placing your finish nails in all of the studs as well as in between, along both the top and bottom of your molding. Once your molding is in place you can begin your finish work! Use your caulking to fill in the corner seams, along the top and bottom edges where your molding meets the walls, and in all your nail holes. Your installation will appear flawless, even if like mine, it wasn’t… Caulk is the magic eraser of the crown molding world, and your very good friend. Use it to your advantage.
Tip: Overfill along any seams or holes and allow your caulking to sit for a minute. Then use a diaper wipe or a moist paper towel around your finger to wipe away excess with wonderfully accurate precision. Repeat if necessary to build up your layer of caulking and fill in areas that need that little bit of extra help!
Yahoo… congratulations you have just finished installing beautiful crown molding… If you need to paint, paint away, and if you chose the material I did that is already finished, then double yahoo to you!
I couldn’t be happier with my outcome, regardless of how I got there (which was definitely the long way around the block). Now I will be onto the next projects in this space, the first of which should probably be some trim around the windows to match! Also I could use a bit of greenery outside the windows to beef up the view… So much to do, so little time… I hope you all enjoyed this and I will see you back here this week for some other fun projects I have done recently! Xx…Rayan
Disclosure: This project was completed in partnership with The Home Depot as part of the #LetsDoThis campaign. I received compensation from them to complete this fabulous tutorial, for your enjoyment and entertainment! All musings, bruises and adventures are 100% my own!
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Carr Desk! I just love a good desk wtih substantial lines, don’t you? Xx…Rayan
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and divider, and the backs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back pieces as shown. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position the pieces as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the center shelf and the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges of each piece. Position the shelves as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown with the sides and front overlapping by ¾”, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Secure the sides first, using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the front pieces.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the side pieces to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and divider to allow for the drawer fronts. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts as well as the spacers for the large drawer front. For the large drawer front only, set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the spacers between the drawer fronts and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of these drawer fronts will be flush with the back face of the spacer – the front of the spacer will stick out ¼” to allow for the trim.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the side pieces first using glue and ½” brad nails, then secure the top and bottom pieces.
Shim the drawer fronts in the openings – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening. Secure the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes using 1” brad nails. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Install the drawer pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
We built this bed using actual pallet crates.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Single Storage Case! The Tribeca Collection promises to be a fun and stylish easy to build collection of pieces and I can't wait to roll out more of these pieces! Yahoo! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
For each cubby:
For each drawer:
For each cubby:
For each box:
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
For the cubby:
Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert into the box frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
For the boxes:
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back. Cut the notch using a jigsaw then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer to help it slide smoothly in the opening.
If building multiple cubbies, stack and secure them with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
It's Friday! I would love to pretend that that means something around these parts, but in all honesty I barely ever know what day of the week it is except that I am vaguely aware of the days when my boy has school! Vaguely… At least I can say he makes it to school on time each day, but I can pretty much call it a day with that accomplishment. It's kind of a big one afterall.
I'm channeling my inner Fall lover this week with items that have a subtle yet rich cognac hue to them, and a bit of a gray and overcast feeling. These pieces definitely suggest a foggy day in a cooler clime and while we aren't quite that, around these parts, we have definitely been having a bit of a cool down here. Bring on the holiday season… except that means for me, 87 birthdays along with the typical holidays… so maybe I'm not quite ready for that. Forget it… let's go back to summer.
This playa print by Michelle Armas is a bit of a tease with it's summertime subject matter yet gloomy color palette. Perhaps that is exactly what I need! Confusion… This Round Glass Bottle with Antique Brass Cube Stopper reminds me of a gentlemen's club and sitting around the fire smoking cigars, and while that has nothing whatsoever to do with me, it reminices of fall gatherings to be sure. The Angles Pillow is the perfect fall accent piece with it's yellow velvet over grey tweed design. It would be stunning on the Milo Classic Leather and Brass Lounge Chair. The Kyra Cain Large Chargers would be fabulous as a decorative addition to a fall table setting without being to obviously fall themed. Of course they are way out of my price range, already sold, and collectors pieces, it would appear, but perhaps in a dream world where I had a money tree in my backyard this would be possible… a girl can dream can't she?
For other articles in this series, visit Friday I'm In Love
I partnered with my friend Beckie from Infarrantly Creative to bring you plans for building this fun and fabulous Coffee Table Serving Tray! She did such an amazing job building and finishing this, it looks absolutely gorgeous and now I want one, don't you? This will be a pretty fast build for many of you and super duper easy on the budget, so go forth my friends and let some sawdust fly! Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Under $25 -$50
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your frame: Use your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue, if you are using a Kreg Jig (with your Jig set for 3/4″ material), otherwise you will countersink your 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue.
Attach both plywood bases using either your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue (with your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ material) or your 1 1/4″ wood screws with your countersink bit and glue.
Tack on Your Front Trim: You can nail this in place with your 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue, or for a more rustic look, use screws and let them show.
Construct your Drawer: Using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ material and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the drawer back to the sides. Then using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ material and your 1″ pocket hole screws, attach the drawer bottom to the sides and back. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, use your countersink bit and 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue.
** You will want to add pocket holes in this step to secure the drawer front in the next step if you are choosing to use a Kreg Jig for your build. Place them near the front of the drawer sides as well as in the drawer bottom if you like.
Add the Drawer Face: Tack on the drawer face using either your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ material and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to secure the front to the sides. You will place your pocket holes in the drawer sides for this step. You can also use wood screws and glue with your countersink bit or your finish nails for this step.
Add drawer handles to the sides for carrying and a drawer pull to the drawer for easy access.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Shallow Cabinet! All components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Awesome-sauce right? Xx…Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.
Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the door. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides. Attach the hinges to the door, then install on the cabinet.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This post brought to you in partnership with Denio’s Farmer’s Market & Swap Meet, all musings and adventures are 100% my own.
I hit the jackpot this time around during my monthly trip to Denio’s! I always see a ton of amazing things when I go, but not all of them suit my purpose or fill a need (or particular want). But this time I struck gold. I am always on the hunt for fabulous paintings, and this time I was lucky enough to find that floral beauty. Some of you might remember seeing it in it’s new home above the mantle in my Family Room, and it looks stunning there! This dresser (yes technically a dresser since it has drawers, even though it’s smallish) will make an amazing night stand or accent piece and I haven’t fully decided which yet. It has such good bones. It needs to new handles and needs to be refinished, or at least given a decent sanding and feeding to restore it’s luster, but other than that it’s in amazing condition and is actually wood and not laminate.
The fabulous brass birds of an unknown variety are not only a chic pair of accessories but have a quirky little set of feet on them. A bit like a cross between a monster chicken and a dinosaur. Totally odd, and definitely unique. The skull, I just love him. I have always adored a bit of the macabre in decor, I can’t deny that. At least it’s somewhat close to Halloween so I can pretend that’s why I have him out, but let’s be real people, he will stay year round! There is also an amazing little bronze sculpture next to the skull, but I realize now you can’t hardly see it. My hubster picked that guy out, and adores it. He is a big fan of this style of scuplture and this piece is perfect to add a bit of interest to his nightstand or desk.
I’m heading out to treasure hunt again soon, and honestly it’s become a favorite family affair. We all go, and plot our hunt accordingly…
To view my other collected pieces from Denio’s click here.
This post brought to you in partnership with Denio’s Farmer’s Market & Swap Meet, all musings and adventures are 100% my own.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Media Stand. The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and give this piece a fabulous industrial feel. Xx…Rayan
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs, the longer stretchers, and the supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces as well as each end of the support pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the piece for the bottom then secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back to further secure the dividers.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back. Use 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the shelf, as well as through the shelf into the dividers.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. The center drawer is narrower than the drawers on either side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the fronts in the openings. Mark the position for the cabinet pulls and drill the holes. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
