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Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Oslo 3 Drawer Dresser. I’m going through a phase in my current design sensibilities that longs for a simplified style of furniture and decor, with a bit of a nod to the past and our design roots as a global society. I am loving pieces like this dresser that aren’t fussy and will still stand the test of time with clean lines and minimal detailing. It helps that this fabulous combo also packs a light punch to the old wallet and remains both relatively easy to build and low in cost. Are you craving a more streamlined lifestyle right now too? I wonder if it’s the season or time of year… Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 3 – 1×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×10 at 6’
- 2 – 1×10 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Bottom Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 36” – Bottom Frame
- 4 – 2×2 at 4-3/4” – Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 36” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×10 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 1×10 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 36” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the bottom panel and the bottom frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket hole in each end of the shorter 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom panel. Assemble the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top edge of the frame.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the legs. Position them on the underside of the bottom snug against the frame in each corner. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the bottom into the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom frame locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the bottom frame.
Step 4
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it with a 1/8” gap at the bottom then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Position the next drawer fronts in the same manner with a 1/8” gap between them and secure the same way. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home / Uncat
I kinda love that I am posting a reveal on a project you didn't even know was happening! Ya, that's how we roll here at TDC. Everything is strictly confidential these days… and it's definitely been a tad silent around the old blog lately between the new site overhaul and all of the behind the scenes work happening on that front (thank you John!) and some other gorgeous projects going on at the TDC homestead (I post occasional sneak peeks on my Instagram, if you are interested)! So I am excited to show you the first of those major projects and check this baby off the list! I should give you a bit of background on what you are looking at, because it's entirely more spectacular than it might appear at first glance. Promise…
You see, we are currently renting our home. I think we will likely buy it at some point if we are given the choice, but for the time being we are living within the confines of renting. That means no major construction, remodeling, or permanent decor decisions can actually transpire. Ugh. This ridiculous little niche is one of those spaces that doesn't want to play nicely with anything other than custom built-ins. And truthfully it actually did have a built in shelf… and in fact on it's own it was decent looking, but it was located about a third of the way down from the top and definitely not conducive to my current electronical arrangements and my need to decorate stuff.
Down that shelf came, very carefully…. I will need to store it until we either buy this baby or relocate. Since built-ins can easily be secured to the wall and removed later, that would definitely have been an option but I am just not feeling the built-in vibe these days. I much prefer the look of freestanding furniture pieces at the moment (for a hot minute at least). With such a large space to fill, and the general unattractiveness of TV's and all the jazz that comes along with, I needed some sort of fabulous wall treatment offset the ugly. I fell in love with this space and decided I could easily recreate the look in a non-permanent way, so I made my own removable wallpaper! Yep you heard me correctly! Removable, non-permanent yet completely stable and not falling down or coming up at the seams whatsoever (it was definitely questionable until I found the right method). And let me tell you… this installation was a snap compared to what installing actual wallpaper much be like, eek.
I will be posting the full tutorial this week (now posted and found here) along with all of the other juicy details in this room, that are coming together as we speak! I will also share some of the resources for this space since a few of them became clever little 'fixes' for some unexpected issues that came up during this overhaul. If we all get lucky, I might post the 'before' picture of this space. If I can track it down, that is… no guarantees on that front. eek. Someone got a little carried away with the backing up of the photos and clearing some space on the computer the other day. I won't name names, but it might have been me.
Plans
I’m excited to post our very first new plan on the new site! Squeal! I hope you have had a chance to visit the new digs and check things out. They are a bit different, but definitely better! While we enjoy our new surroundings, a fabulous chair might be a good addition to the pack and the perfect partner for some of our fabulous tables, like the Harcombe Table we posted a few days ago. Match made in heaven if you ask me! Xx… Rayan
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 2’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×4 at 34” – Back Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 15-1/2” – Front & Back Aprons
- 1 – 1×6 at 15-1/2” – Upper Back
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Sides
- 1 – 1×3 at 19” – Seat Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 21” – Seat
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the 2×4 pieces for the back legs. Draw the legs on the board according to the dimensions shown. Cut the legs out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the upper back and the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Position the pieces as shown (the upper back piece will follow the angle of the legs) and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the apron ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the front legs and front apron. Cut the taper in the legs using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the apron ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the pieces ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the seat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home / Studio
If you haven't already visited TDC today, you will be greeted with a pleasant surprise my dear friends! We are now all cozy in our new home and the new site is live! And it's beautiful… This has been a long time in coming, and as many of you who have been with me from the early days might agree, it's about time I had a big girl blog. This beauty was handcrafted, just like many of our projects here are, by Cassie of The Veda House. While this huge transformation might seem like the whole enchilada, in fact she re-branded our entire look from head to toe. New logos, new site, new business cards, new layouts, new social media images… everything! We still have a few bumps and bruises to smooth over but in the meantime I hope you enjoy our new look, and speedy fast and functional site! If you get lost or have any questions, just holler and we will pull you back on track. It will take a quick minute to get used to the new lay of the land. Something to note… for those of you who much prefer to read a blog in a more traditional format, not to worry we were thinking of you! While the new homepage looks like you see here, we added a link in the menu called BLOG and it reads in a format you are likely more comfortable with! We just gave our home a pretty new entryway, but you can still get to the meat of the place with ease! I will be sharing more details with you along with some helpful tips and tricks for navigating the new site, as the week progresses, and of course if you are reading this in your email or feed reader, you should definitely click over here and take a gander. It's worth it! Xx…Rayan
Showcase
This was my first time to attempt any type of furniture building. The plans were clear and easy to follow!
Modifications
I did make one modification though. I made the top from 4 pieces of Oak instead of using the panels in the plans.
Showcase
We used your plans, but we built the loft even lower No kiddos in our house, so no rails either; it's a little more 'grown-up'. It's very sturdy, holds my 6'2″ hubby; as a matter of fact when we finished this bed for 'me', he said, “I want one”. LOL
I wanted storage (a chest, a dresser & then some in a very small room!) AND a place for me to lounge & get-away (read somewhere quiet). We didn't plan the height with a “view” in mind but it worked out that's just what we got! I have the bed 'dressed' so you see the pretty pillows when you enter the room, while relaxing, I switch ends & there is a perfect view into our back yard (swimming pool).
What you don't see is the craft & sewing (plastic totes) storage behind the dresser, I used a spring rod to hold curtains so all of that is hidden from view, but easy access from the end of the bed next to the 'chest'. And yes, the 'chest' used to be 2 nightstands. Since the bed is not too high, I only need a little stool to reach the bed, no ladder required.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Harcombe Table. I’m on the hunt for a new kitchen table for my kitchen nook and I am wanting to build something a tad different. This might be a fabulous choice in that it can easily be a style that is lasting depending on the wood type and finish you choose, yet it is unique enough to not be boring after 5 minutes. I can envision this beauty in a reclaimed wood look or perhaps a bright shiny modern white… It’s just so hard to pull the trigger and decide on what to make, there are so many options… eek Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg jig
- Brad nailer
Lumber
- 14 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
- 3 full sheets of ¼” plywood
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 84” – Top Frame
- 6 – 1×2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
- 8 – 1×2 at 11-1/4” – Top Frame
- 3 – 1×2 at 11” – Top Frame
- 7 – 1×2 at 10-3/4” – Top Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Leg Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 40-1/2” – Leg Frames
- 8 – 1×2 at 27” – Leg Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 4” – Leg Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 8” – Leg Frames
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/4” x 42” – Underside
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 56-1/2” – Underside
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 84” – Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 84” pieces and the two 2×2 pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 2×2 pieces will be secured using countersunk 2” screws from the outside into the end of each piece. The smaller pieces will be staggered to offer additional support.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the leg frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces except for the 40-1/2” pieces. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the 4” and 8” pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal 27” pieces in the center will be added last to allow room to drive the pocket hole screws in the 4” and 8” pieces. Secure the end of the 4” and 8” ends (opposite the pocket hole screws) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
The legs frames will be secured to the 2×2 pieces in the top frame using glue and several 2” screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the leg covering from the ¼” plywood. Secure to each side of each leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the plywood pieces for the underside of the table top. Secure to the underside of the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Fill any gaps in the edges of the top and legs using wood filler or Dry Dex.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Uncat
I hope you all had such a Merry Christmas and enjoyed some time with family and friends. We were fortunate enough to wrap up the last remnants of the flu as the holiday officially began. Of course I had so much I wanted to share with you guys before Santa's visit, but naturally, not a single bit of that happened. So many ideas and so little time, isn't that always the case? Better late than never though.
While your present opening and tree trimming has come to a close, don't put those ornaments, wreaths or garlands away just yet. Many of your gorgeous baubles are just the thing to add a little sparkle to your New Year's festivities. Lucky for both of us that the handmade ornaments I had planned to share prior to Christmas Day, actually work for any festive occasion or cute handmade wall decor, all the live long year. And of course they add that extra bit of sparkle and shine that's perfect for ringing in the New Year with style. At least I'm not too late for that upcoming event. At least not yet… Give me a day and I may be able to come up with another round of some horrid sickness. Ugh.
This project was created for my Cran Crush Christmas Look and I used it for another pretty that I will share later in the week. Stay tuned for that fun…
This project is really simple and can be done in bulk for very low cost and in no time at all. At first glance this seems like a project that doesn't require a tutorial, but I assure I made that mistake myself and the result was something out of a glittery medieval tarring and feathering spectacle. Trust me on this one…
Materials:
- Feathers in a style of your choosing. I used a large bag of white feathers from the craft store.
- Glitter in gold or a color of your choosing
- Glue – Elmer's or other liquid craft glue
- Small Ornament Hooks (can also use floral wire)
This is going to sound a tad silly, but start by sorting through your feathers and choosing only those that have enough of the smooth bottom portion (instead of the fuzzy section at the top) to make your sparkle show well.
Your going to use your finger to apply your glue, very gently. I tried a few other methods for this and they all ended up in a large virtual blooper real with feathers and glitter everywhere. It was not pretty. Or actually it was pretty, just not what I was going for. It's funny I didn't consider that this step needed special care, and so I was surprised when I kept screwing it up, over and over again. Some things aren't as simple as they seem!
To avoid a good feathering, you will dip your finger in a dollop of glue and gently brush a thin layer over the bottom portion. Follow the natural V shape of the feather (the V is upside down) and give it decent coverage. Keep it from being so thick that you start to tangle and overlap the little tendrils, this isn't very good looking when it happens. With any remaining glue on your finger, carefully and lightly brush the very outside edges of some of the fluffy uper section. If the pieces start to come out when you do this, lighten your touch or skip this little bit. It's really more of an extra bit of pretty than an important step.
This part is easy peasy, glitter and shake off the excess.
Now for the complicated stuff… If you have floral wire or ornament hooks on hand, they will make this step pretty simple. I had ornament hooks so that is what I will show you. If you are using wire, simply wrap your wire in a similar method that I show you here, only once you wrap it through, wrap tightly around creating a stem of sorts.
First you will want to poke your hook through one side of the feather from behind.
Then thread it back through the other side, and out the back.
Now you simply need to wrap that end around and down in the front, but be sure to leave the remaining hook toward the back. If you plan to hang these from something that requires you to use string, I recommend twisting the upper portion of the hook around the feather again and bending the end down into a half circle loop. This will give you something to attach your string to.
These are so pretty in person, and so fast to churn out in bulk. I used these on my Cran Crush Tree and also for another project that I will share with you later this week! Yahoo.
Plans
Free DIY Furniture Plans: Complete Instructions on How to Build a Naldi Stemware Rack. The perfect companion piece for your bar cart. Hang nearby for easy, yet gorgeously displayed access to your stemware! Now you can use the bar cart for bottle service and get those glasses up and out of the way for a convenient serving and cocktail making station. This build is both easy and budget friendly but best of all it solves the pesky problem of how you store your wine and champagne glasses. No more ‘1 up – 1 down’ storing of your stemware to make the most of your space… simply build, hang and enjoy! Yahoo… Also a fabulous hostess gift for whomever might be throwing a sparkly fête in your near future. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
Materials
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 4 Eye bolt
- Chain
- Ceiling hook for hanging the rack
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 25” – Rack Frame
- 3– 1×2 at 10” – Rack Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 10-1/4” – Rack Frame
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the rack. Using the holesaw or paddle bit, mark the position for the holes in each piece. Use a jigsaw to cut straight lines from the holes to the edges of each board for the notches.
Step 2
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards Locate the pocket holes so the screws will not interfere with the notches. Some of the pocket holes may start in the notches themselves (as with the outer side pieces) but this will not matter as the pocket holes will not be seen.
Step 3
Insert the eye bolts into each top corner of the frame, then attach the chain. The length of the chain will depend on how low the frame hangs down. Use all safety precautions when hanging the rack from a hook!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
Yesterday we shared the plans for the Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser along with a sneak peek of the unfinished build from my sweet friend Lindsay. Today, I bring you the showcase on this build in all it’s glory, with an amazing two toned finish! I am sharing just a couple of the gorgeous photos of their build and the stunning finish… the rest can be found here with full instructions on how she created this two toned pretty and the complete run down on the products as well! I’m a huge fan of this look and I hope you head on over and leave her a comment on just how lovely this turned out. A home run, no? Xx… Rayan
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans
We have such a special treat today my lovely fellow builders! I’ve teamed up with one of my favorite sweet friends, Lindsay of Makely Home to bring you a gorgeous set of plans and a fabulous showcase all in one! She has worked so very hard on building and finishing this beauty so I hope you will head over to visit her and gush over her build! She will be sharing more beautiful images, details about their experience building from my plans, as well as a bit about how this collaboration came to be! It was so much fun working with her on this and I adore having the chance to mix business with pleasure – so to speak. It isn’t all that often that I have the chance to work on a project for this site with someone I adore in real life, so yahoo for that.
- 1 1/2 sheets of ¾” plywood (2nd sheet – only need 2’x2′ area)
- 1 sheet 1/2″ plywood
- 1 sheet 1/4″ plywood (or if your store will sell you a 1/2 sheet at 2’x8′ then awesome)
- 1- 2×6 at 6′
- 2- 2×3 at 8′ (1 front/back + 2 side per board)
- 4- 1×6 at 8′ (3 at 26 1/2 + 1 at 16 1/4 per board for 2 boards, then 5 at 16 1/4 per board)
- 2- 1×8 at 8′ (3 per board)
- 4- 2×6 at 7 3/4″ legs
- 4- 2×3 at 15 3/4″ frame rails
- 2- 2×3 at 51 1/4″ frame front/back
- 6- 1×6 at 26 1/2″ drawer backs
- 12- 1×6 at 16 1/4″ drawer sides
- 6- 1×8 at 27 11/16″ drawer front
- 2- 3/4″ ply at 20″x22 1/4″ sides
- 2- 3/4″ ply at 20″x57 1/4″ top/bottom
- 1- 3/4″ ply at 19 1/4″ x 22 1/4″ center
- 6- 1/2″ ply at 26 1/2″ x 5 3/4″ drawer faces
- 6-1/2″ ply at 26 1/2″ x 17″ drawer bottoms
- 1- 1/4″ ply at 57 1/4″ x 22 1/4″ back
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for age
Use a 2×6 to cut your leg pieces. Create your guidelines as seen in the second image below and cut as indicated. Use a circular saw if possible.
Build your frame. Use 2 ½” pocket hole screws and glue to connect. The outside rails will sit flush against the leg pieces. The inner rails should sit approximately 16 ½” apart, but this is not a crucial dimension, just space them as evenly as possible.
Build your Box. The side panels will sit inside the top and bottom panels and they will sit flush on the front, yet set in ¼” on the back side. This will allow for the back panel later. The bottom of your box will overhang your base by ¾” all the way around. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel (on the inside), and glue to fasten.
Fasten the Center Panel in Place. The center panel will sit back ¾” on the front side and ¼” on the back side and should be centered as precisely as possible between the side panels. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel, and glue to fasten.
Build Your Drawer Boxes. You will make of these 6 exactly the same way. In step 9, your drawer fronts will differ in their placement for 3 of your 6 drawers, but in this step and the next they are identical. The bottom will sit flush with the outside perimeter of the sides and back and can be secured using your brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue.
Secure your Drawer Faces and Attach Drawer Glides. The faces will be cut to size from your ½” plywood, and will sit flush with the drawer box on the top, sides, and bottom. The drawer glide should sit 3” up from the bottom of the box and 1” back from the front edge once the face has been attached.
Cut and Notch Your Drawer Fronts. Cut your fronts to size and then notch out the handle area using a jig saw. Do not attach Drawer Fronts to the drawers themselves yet.
Attach Drawer Glides to Side and Center Panels. Attach Glides in locations indicated below. Work from the back for your measurements so they all end up at the same location (the center panel is set back farther than the sides from the front edge, so the dimensions are different from that side). There will be 1/8” spacing around all edges of each drawer front and the placement of the drawer glides takes this into consideration. For the bottom and center pair of drawer glides, measurements are from the bottom and back edge of the side and center panels and line up with the bottom edge of the drawer glides. For the top pair 2 of drawer glides the measurements are either from the top and back edge of the side and center panels or the bottom and back edges if you prefer, BUT they should still align with the bottom edge of the drawer glide. All glides should sit 2 ¼” in from the back edge.
**Also noted on the diagram below is the relative space each drawer will occupy including the 1/8” spacing on the bottom for each drawer, except for the top drawers which will have an additional 1/8” spacing on the top as well.
Insert Drawers. Line up the drawer glides and insert drawers in their respective locations. In the diagram below, the drawer front is attached, however you will actually attach the drawer front once the drawers have been inserted into the unit so you can adjust for any amount you might be ‘off’.
Attach Drawer Fronts. You can do this after you have your drawers installed so that you can adjust for any slight discrepancies, but the location of the drawer fronts should be approximately what you see shown below in the diagram. There will be 1/8” spacing between the outside edge of the drawer front and the inside edge of the side panels on your box. There will also be 1/8” spacing above and below each drawer. There will be 1/8” spacing between the left and right drawers as well, but since they divide the space remaining, the overhang on the inside edges of your drawer fronts will be different than on the outside edges so I recommend using the outside edges as your guide. The Fronts will sit flush with the drawer on the bottom edge, will overhang 1 ½” on the top and 3/8” on the outside edge. The drawer shown below in the diagram would be a drawer for left hand side of your unit if you are facing your unit. These measurements for the overhang will be on the other side for the right hand side drawers. Attach drawer fronts with 1 1/4” brad nails and glue, where the front meets the sides of your drawer box (otherwise the nails will stick out the back of the drawer face).
Attach the Back Panel. Use 1 ¼” brad nails and glue to attach your back to the side and center panels.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.
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DIY / Home / Studio
It’s been a tad quiet around the old blog lately, we have had the dreaded flu… And of course that is why this post is coming down the line so late in the game. It’s managed to take the House of TDC to it’s knees my friends, but luckily it hasn’t shut us down completely and at least a few of the 1 million things going on behind the scenes, have actually been done. One of those things happened to be a live TV segment for a local morning show, that was all about Holiday Decorating with Colored Trees. It’s all the rage these days and if you aren’t already on the bandwagon, you are very likely to be, in the next couple of years. Light pink will likely be the front runner this holiday season, but thanks to my friends at Treetopia, I am going to share with you some fabulous holiday trees in some drop dead gorgeous colors! Colored trees that you purchase at discount retailers and only come in shiny hues are a thing of the past. These colored trees are the real deal. They aren’t painted or childlike. They are nothing short of sophisticated and chic and you will love the variety of options available.
Let’s be daring, and let our choice in tree represent who we are as individuals… or match our existing decor. Yes let’s…
This amazing 4′ potted tree in Cranberry Crush is to die for. It’s such a rich and lush color that it really needs no pomp and circumstance. So for this baby I let it’s natural beauty shine through and kept my decor to a minimum. I used a mixture of handmade ornaments, natural elements, and mixed metals. You can’t forget the antler as my tree topper, oh yes I did! For me this tree is love at first site. But I know you are going to love the tree I will show you tomorrow too! I will also be sharing a few of the handmade ornaments as part of our Handmade Holiday Decor and Gifts series, along with the full set of instructions on making your own! They were so easy and fast and I made every single piece you see on this tree in a day or so, working off and on… and mostly off, thanks to baby bird.
I used only 7 different ornaments for this tree and I used only 4 of each ornament per side except for the feathers and the glass rain drops. I quite literally kept it minimal. I cut branches from a tree in my yard to add a bit of that organic quality to this decor and the aside from 2 store bought ornament types and the antler, everything else is handmade.
- Antler Tree Topper – EBay
- Branches from My Yard
- Paper Moravian Stars – tutorial to follow
- DIY Gold Dipped Feathers
- Faux Brass Himmeli Geometric Ornaments – tutorial to follow
- Capiz Shell Ornaments – tutorial to follow
- Bronze Glittery Icicles – Walmart
- Glass Rain Drop Ornaments – Crate + Barrel
Disclosure: Treetopia provided the awesome amazing trees for the tv segment and blog series on decorating with colored trees.
