Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Haven Bookcase

02.12.14

A bookshelf that has a few drawers is a good looking bookshelf indeed. Not to mention it helps you store and hide those things that are cluttery and not so pretty to display, yahoo! If you want to browse through some of our other plans for bookshelves, we have tons and tons! Xx… Rayan

Estimated Cost 

$75-$100

Dimensions 

Tools 
Lumber 
  • 1 – 1×10 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×10 at 8’
  • 4 – 2×3 at 8’ (or 4 – 2×4 ripped down to 2-1/2” wide)
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 8’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials 
Cut List 
  • 4 – 2×3 at 43-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 39-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2×3 at 44” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 44” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38-1/2” x 44” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 48” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 41-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1×10 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×10 at 43” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43-3/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 5-7/16” x 21-13/16” – False Drawer Fronts
Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 2 

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position on the front as shown securing with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3 

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along all four edges of each panel. Secure the shelves to the front stretcher and cabinet sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Step 4 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes along the 38-1/2” edges. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the shelves to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5 

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that the front and sides overhang by ½” secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 1” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7 

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position the ¼” false drawer fronts on the ¾” base so they are flush with the edges with a 1/8” gap between them. Secure in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Clamps may also be used to hold them in place until the glue dries. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

/ Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ This post may contain affiliate links.

Home / Plans / Showcase

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table

02.10.14
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table

I have been working on this table off and on for a couple of weeks now and I am so excited to finally have it built and finished. You might remember my complaint that none of my furniture fits my current home’s spaces and my kitchen tablewas no exception, only it was far too small rather than too large like most of my other pieces. Since we spend quite a bit of time in this space I decided to tackle it first. I planned to build this a tad differently originally, but after some sort of revelation recently, I decided it would be even more satisfying to build what I envision using materials and supplies I already have. So… what you see before you is actually constructed entirely of 2×4’s including the table top. And these are not your beautiful select lumber 2×4 studs, but your down and dirty, horrible quality, utterly cheap studs with knots and cracks galore. So, with a little elbow grease and a lot of sanding, she is now absolutely gorgeous. Just goes to show you don’t need to purchase expensive materials or have super expensive specialty tools to get the job done.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$25-$50
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • 17 – 2×4 at 8′ – you can also choose to use a solid piece for the top or larger boards.
  • 12 – 2×4 at 6′ – Table Top

** For all beveled cuts, measurements below are for the longest side after you bevel.

  • 4 – 2×4 at 30 9/16″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 at 29 1/8″ Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8 1/8″ Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 9 3/8″ – Supports
  • 5 – 2×4 at 29″ Frame
  • 2 – 2×4 at 55″ Frame

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build your Table Top. You can use one solid board, sheet goods, or larger boards for this if you choose, but in the essence of frugality, we are going with 2×4’s here. You will join your boards with pocket hole joinery. Use your Jig to create your pocket holes for 1 1/2″ thick material and stagger their placement. Secure with glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Clamp together and allow your glue to setup before you move on with this piece.

Build the Leg Units. You will need 2 of these exactly the same. Each and every cut is a bevel cut at 21.3°. Pay close attention to which direction the image shows the bevel. If your saw doesn’t have beveling capabilities, I suppose you could turn your board on it’s side and miter it. It would work out the same way I think.

Attach the Leg Units to the Table Top. Once your table top boards have finished drying and are completely secured, you can attach your leg units as shown in this diagram. Use your 2 1/2″ wood screws and glue, then attach through the small board on your leg unit.

Cut and Attach the Supports. Since we are using 2×4’s joined for the table top, the support for the legs and top have special needs, so to speak. Bevel the supports at 21.3° and attach to the leg units with glue and to the table top with glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws.

Build out the Frame. The remaining pieces are all straight cuts and easy to finish out. The 2 pieces on either side of each leg unit should sit up close and personal to the leg units. These are here to help keep the legs from moving in either direction. Attach all the frame pieces using 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Finish your Table Top. Caulk or fill in between each board, allow to dry and sand flush. I used caulking on mine since it gives more and tends to be more flexible, which is important when you are dealing with several boards joined together. You need to be careful when you apply it so that you wipe it from any surfaces where it isn’t needed. I used a belt sander to sand flush since my boards were warped and crazy and it’s just stunning!

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

DIY / Home / Showcase / Uncat

My Entryway Redesign + A New Home for the Modern Tree Shaped Bookshelf

02.06.14

Some of you might remember the entryway in my previous home. I loved the functionality that locker system brought to an otherwise unusable space, but in our new home, it simply doesn’t work. You see, I essentially made the locker system fit in the typically unused 10 inches or so next to my front door. In our current space, the entry is angled and there isn’t a way to put a piece of this nature. This doesn’t leave a home for all of the shoes and coats we shed on our way in the door, which of course makes me absolutely crazy. A few weeks ago, I moved the tree shelf into the hallway temporarily while I was rearranging some things in Blake’s room and wouldn’t you know it accidentally found the perfect new home! I scored the most gorgeous vintage brass planter at a thrift store a while back and it works beautifully to help corral our shoes! I intended to use it for a certain special little plant, so of course now I’m back on the hunt for something fabulous I can use for that, but I couldn’t be happier about this accidental space plan!

I’m slowly but surely starting to finish a few small spaces throughout this house, like this one and this one . We have been here for nearly a year and in that time I have struggled with how to decorate my spaces. It’s funny how you can love your home and all of the amazing windows it has and at the same time despise it’s spaces and all of the windows they have. Ironic, to be sure. I didn’t realize how difficult it would be to design a space around all of the crazy windows. I realize how ridiculous this may sound, “whoa is me and my millions of glorious windows and fabulous light everywhere”… but seriously, whoa is me. If virtually every wall has windows, where pray tell does the furniture go? And how about the art and accessories? Oh, you aren’t sure? Well me either. And this is precisely where things have been for the last 9 months. I love a good challenge, but the answer to this particular one is that most of my furniture doesn’t work and needs to be replaced. I simply don’t have the energy or the time to build all new pieces for every single space in this house, and yet, that is the most budget friendly option in many cases. Le sigh. I’m tired just thinking about it!

There are a few pieces that work as intended, and they work so beautifully I could cry. And honestly I just might cry at the thought of all those gorgeous pieces I don’t want to part with but truly don’t work in this house. Some are pieces my Grandma gave me and getting rid of them seems impossible now that she is gone. But where am I going to put 10 dining chairs that are too large for my current dining room and the more appropriately sized table that will suit it? I think I need a ‘group’ for this. It’s a bit like an awkward kid stage up in here, with all of the oversized furnishings and art crammed into spaces they are too big for. It’s a tad like that kid who had a growth spurt shortly after back-to-school shopping and his skinny jeans are a bit more like capri pants now. Eek!

So I updated the video that goes with this tree shelf project. It’s been a long time coming and while it’s no where near great, it’s much much better! Yahoo for that! If you would like to watch, it’s just below. I am hoping to beef up the video production for this site quite a bit so hopefully I will hone my shooting and editing skills enough that it doesn’t take me a week of non-stop crazy to do one single video edit! If any of you have any tips for me, I would love to hear them! And if you know of a videographer in my area or an editor (who will work for exposure), please beg them to come to my rescue!


 

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Cellar Wine Rack and X Cube Shelves

02.05.14
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cellar Winerack via @thedesconf

It’s the simple projects that really excite me. Somehow I always get myself into long drawn out projects, that go on for days and days, but the simple ones that can be multiplied into an amazing dramatic affect… those are the ones that get me going in the morning! This cellar wine rack could easily double as awesome shelving for just about anything so don’t be fooled by the name of this bad boy. Imagine a whole wall (or half of a wall) lined with these gorgeous X’s. Wouldn’t that be amazing? Yahoo! Xx… Rayan

Pssst… I hope to be back later this afternoon with one of many exciting projects that I have actually finished recently (well, in the last 3 months so…. pretty recent). One of which has taken me down the rabbit hole of video editing (which I am apparently terrible at) and has sucked me in for several days. Hoping to see the daylight again this afternoon… wish me luck!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Under $25

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cellar Winerack via @thedesconf
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 19” – Box Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 20” – Box Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 26-3/8” – X

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the box frame. Assemble the box frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the X and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Slide the pieces together to form the X insert.

Insert the X into the box frame. It should fit snugly. Secure the X with a few 1-1/4” brad nails.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. / Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Tangier Cabinet

02.03.14

By special reader request, this cute doored cabinet is a fabulous addition to your space, especially if you have items to store and display. Can’t wait to see what you all do with your own variations! The doors can be made with plywood, glass or plexi depending on your preference! Yahoo. Xx… Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood – or this can be glass or plexi depending on the type of cabinet you would like to build!
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 piece of ¾” x ¾” x 8’ trim
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2×2 at 35-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×2 at 36” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-1/4” x 36” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 2×2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1×2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 36” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 41” – Top
  • Trim for top cut to fit
  • 4 – 1×2 at 29-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 6 – 1×2 at – 14-13/16” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 12-3/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¼” plywood or glass or plexi at 15-13/16” x 27-1/4” – Door Backing
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting for the thicknesses of the materials, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws – 2-1/2” through the upper frame pieces and 1-1/4” through the lower frame pieces.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 3
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end (with the pocket hole jig set for the appropriate material setting). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the upper stretcher and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the lower stretcher.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the shelf. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, and the sides and back of the shelf. Secure the bottom to the lower stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by 1”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the trim. No measurements are given because it will depend on the type of trim used. Install the side pieces first, then install the front. Secure using glue and 1” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the backing or have glass or plexi cut to size. The pieces will overlap the opening in the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure using glue and 5/8” brad nails or mirror clips.

Step 7

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affilliate links

DIY / Home

DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

01.31.14
DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

There is no doubt I made you lovelies wait just a tad for this DIY project. I could tell you that I am sorry for that, and I am, but the truth is I have been blogging in slow motion since hatching the bird more than a year ago. Can't seem to snap out of it- do any of you have this problem? I'm sure I'm not alone here… it must be a bit like Mommy Brain, which by the way also hasn't gone away for me since bird #2 yet, eek! Anyhoo, as I was saying, the truth of the matter here is that I have had this project done for more than 3 months. Yep, I've been holding out on you… Actually I have just been slammed by life happening and so I chose to embrace it in this instance and let time do the telling on whether or not my method for this project would hold for longevity. And, after what is probably closer to 5 months (I constantly underestimate time), I'm happy to report that the process I am about to share with you is still going strong and shows no signs whatsoever of coming apart at the seams, pun completely intended!

Hold on to your socks folks, I'm about to blow your mind with the simplicity and budget friendliness of this fab project!

Materials and Tools for DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

MATERIALS REQUIRED

Marbled Paper – 24″ x 36″ or a paper of your choosing.

Double Sided Photo + Document Tape

Scissors

That's it. Except you may benefit from a ruler or long straight edge to act as a guide for cutting, and an exacto knife to touch up your edges if you get a bit crazy, but honestly you can simply overlap a bit more if you are off a tad on your cut dimensions, so not to worry.

Placing the Tape for DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

Ok so here is the skinny… Depending on the size of the area you plan to paper, you may need to cut your sheets down to size. I attempted to find pieces that either complimented each other in pattern or were very contrasting so that it would stand out and look like different sheets or tiles. I varied which of these I did depending on what I had in my patterning. For my space the size was such that I could place a whole sheet, then overlap a second sheet just a tad and cut off about 11″ of excess. I did this in an every other pattern so that the top row had the left sheet as it's whole sheet, and the second row had the right sheet as the whole sheet. There is nothing worse than a bunch of accidentally aligned seams. It looks odd, trust me on that.

Once you have your pattern figured out, place strips of the double sided tape along all 4 edges of your paper. I did a test fit before I removed the tape backing and actually stuck the sheets onto the wall. I also only removed one side of the tape backing at a time so that I could smooth and readjust as needed. I would begin on the top edge and peel back just a few inches of the tape backing, then smooth and peel for the remainder of that edge, a little at a time. This kept me from sticking an edge down and having to peel it off to adjust. Since the pattern is organic and relatively busy, it's pretty hard to screw this up, but having a crooked sheet near an edge can be a tad obvious depending on the overlap.

Baby Bird watching the Progress for DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

You can see my progress shot above. And the bird sitting with his babysitter, the tv. Don't judge… my other kid won't even watch tv so I am taking full advantage this time around!

I actually started on the second row first (after measuring down the proper distance), since I needed Mr. TDC to help me reach the top row. We inadvertently installed the Besta cabinet and secured it to the wall before I came up with this idea and so I couldn't reach the top portion, even with a ladder. Picture a velociraptor or T-Rex with short arms, that just can't quite reach. It wasn't pretty, but it might have been pretty funny… I had to get creative for the bottom portion, but found that essentially I could slide a portion of a sheet behind the cabinet pretty easily and just added the tape on the edges sticking out. Since many of the bottom sections only have tape on one edge and part of the top edge, that should tell you how well this particular tape has worked! And of course it's clearly not the kind of tape that will ruin the drywall when you attempt to remove it. Nope, it comes off easily but holds firmly while it's in place. Interesting little thing, this tape is. I guess those scrap bookers know a thing or two, eh?

Finished Wallpaper Project for DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

So that's it. That's all she wrote, quite literally. Wasn't that ridiculously easy? Told you it would be! Yahoo

/ This post contains affiliate links

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Arden Sideboard

01.29.14
Project Image

The vintage mid century modern style of this piece is right on trend my friends! What a great way to bring some stylish functionality into your home. Put a tv on top, or use as a buffet in your dining room. This would even be fabulous as more of a dresser or to store some of your children’s toys! Whatever your storage need, this would be a great way to handle it! I hope you give this baby a whirl! Feel free to browse all of our other plans of this type as well, click here to do so, there are quite literally dozens of options to choose from! Xx… Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Lumber
  • 1 – 1×2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×3 at 30” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” – Bottom
  • 4 – 1×3 at 19-9/16” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” X 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×4 at 14” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/16” x 16-1/4” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the base as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the legs. Mark the lines for the angles as shown, and cut using the saw of your choice. Drill pocket holes in the top edge noting that there will be two right legs and two left legs. Butt the legs up against the base frame as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the corner brackets to the legs and fasten to the frame for further security.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom on: form-data; name=”field_short_title[0][value]” Arden Sideboard

Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Position as shown, then secure to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides, back, and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ Posts may contain affiliate links

Build / Shopping

Tool Time Dream Team: 10 Tools That Will Make Building DIY Furniture Amazingly Easy

01.28.14

I’m excited to kick this new year off by checking a few items off of my TDC to-do list and one of those rather large tasks is to beef up our Getting Started, Tool Time, and Tips & Tricks sections of the site! There is a definite wall of mysticism that surrounds the woodworking and construction industries and my hope is to slowly tear down that wall and make sure that all of you have the proper skill set to move forward in building with confidence. I will be providing a whole host of DIY Basics that truly start at the beginning and work up in skill level, and even plan to shoot some video content for you fine folks…. gasp. We shall leave no one behind, ya? Can I get a Yahoo?

Today we are going to do precisely that and start at the beginning… well kind of. You see once upon a time, in a far off land, this quirky gal named Rayan (that’s me, if you didn’t know) shared a Must Have Tool List with you guys. Now this list was what I like to call the absolute skinny, meaning that it only lists those items that are absolutely necessary, supremely crucial, and totally vital to build something. A few of the items were task specific, like mentioning a nail gun and compressor combo for anyone attempting to install trim or molding, and aren’t items you need to add to your arsenal if say you wanted to build a bed, for instance… but I noted that for each item so it shouldn’t scare you too much.

But this list, the one that I am finally getting around to writing today, is for the fun stuff and those items you will need to really truly be utterly successful in your furniture builds, and without suffering from Angina along the way. Now, just like the first list (here), there are going to be some items included that are fairly specific to the task at hand. So, if you don’t ever plan on attempting that particular task, you can simply ignore those items and focus on what you will be more likely to use. No point in aimlessly buying tools that will sit around untouched, collecting dust. Also in a similar fashion to the first list, I don’t plan on suggesting brands or price points here, though I will include affiliate links for the items I personally use or find to be a nice price point and product feature combo, or have found to not cause brain damage in the attempt to use. I am in no way currently affiliated with any of the brands or products shown here, just in case you were wondering, and this isn’t to be confused with affiliate links, which are all actually created through Amazon and don’t directly relate to any of these brands whatsoever. Yahoo.

So lett’s get started and dive right in, shall we? In no particular order…

A Battery Operated Portable Nailer…. need I say more. This bad girl will shoot 2″ finish nails and shares the same battery as a myriad of other tools in the same collection, and that my friends is the bees knees. A nail gun might seem intimidating at first, and with good reason. These suckers are indeed a deadly weapon and not to be underestimated for any reason. With proper precaution and a few good reads of the manual, this is by far the most convenient and time saving tool in my arsenal outside of my saw, which I will get to next). I included a nail gun compressor combo on the original list of must haves, so this item is simply the updated, more portable version of that item and feels a bit like a splurge for just how time saving and easy it is to use, so I would indeed recommend you go this route if you will need to use finish nails or brad nails for any reason whatsoever. And… it’s possible it might actually be less expensive than the nail gun compressor combo… not sure.

12″ Double Bevel Compound Miter Saw… If you can afford to purchase one of these in a large size that slides, even better. The bigger the blade, the larger the cut and having the compound capability (can miter and bevel at the same time) is crucial on occasion, though most of the time either a miter or a bevel is all that is necessary. Double bevel indicates that it can bevel in either direction, which is definitely nice… all that board flipping will make a gal tired, especially if she’s only 5’2″ like someone I know (me). Having a saw that will do these gorgeous things, set up in an easy to access location is quite literally a requirement for me to be able to build. If you are balancing babies, like I am balancing babies, being able to get in and get out when inspiration strikes is quite literally a make or break for me. This saw or one like it in your price range (a 10″ blade capacity will be less expensive, but will require a good deal of board flipping) will easily change the way you build and will allow you to build more quickly and easily. Not to mention it will give you the ability to cut as you build which is always a good idea so that you can measure and cut to length as needed. Your local home improvement store will often makes your cuts for you, but when they are off by a bit it’s a major hassle to rectify if you don’t have something on hand.

Cordless Drill + Impact Driver… Now let it be said… I don’t care what they say, a cordless drill does not even come close to the power that a corded drill has. The end. But… a cordless drill and an impact driver are absolutely lovely to have on hand. When those puppies have the interchangeable battery system that the Ryobi One + series happen to have, well it’s just too darn convenient and simple to ignore as a set to include in your arsenal. Plus, it’s quite handy to have a separate drill and driver on hand so that you don’t have to change out your bits every 5 seconds. Even a quick change chuck is a tad inconvenient when you need to switch between drilling and driving with any kind of frequency.

Kreg K5 Pocket Hole Jig… The best of all the features from all the versions before this and with some fabulous additions to boot. You see, you will need a pocket hole jig to build most if not all of the projects on this site. So while any of them will do the job including the Kreg Jig Jr., this kit takes the cake. If you aren’t quite ready to go with the latest greatest of a thing, and you prefer the tried and true, the K4 Master System comes with quite a few bells and whistles, including a Mini Jig (which I use constantly for on the fly pocket holing) and a Kreg Face Clamp (hands down the best clamp around).

Right Angle Close Quarters Drill… For those hard to reach teeny tiny spaces and of course with my beloved easy swap battery system this guy has fast become a fave. I had the pleasure of getting my mitts on one of these recently (thank you Ryobi) and it’s funny how you don’t realize how much suffering you might be experiencing until someone puts you out of your misery. This guy did that for me. I have the 4V version which does not pack hardly enough power for my power hungry self, so this 18V version both packs a bigger punch and uses the same battery as so many of my other tools. That is a much better arrangement I think.

Circular Saw… This might not sound like a dream team tool, but in fact I prefer my circular saw over my table saw any day of the week. That is the truth of the matter. Also a table saw is technically not for making cross cuts, which for me defeats the purpose. It’s a rarity that I need to rip down a board to a smaller size, so cross cutting is where I need this to function. Now combined with the item below, this is a powerful and accurate cutting tool which is much safer when handling plywood sheets. Attempting to push an entire sheet of ply through my table saw blade with the limited wingspan that I have, has proven nearly impossible. This is my go-to every single time. Much safer for me…

Kreg Rip Cut… When combined with my circular saw, this baby is the bomb dot com. I can hardly walk in a straight line, so cutting in a straight line, even with a guide marker is virtually impossible for me. I will be posting an article on using this bad boy shortly, but in the meantime, I urge you to check out the description here and take a look at the demo pics. It will blow your mind! This is hands down one of my best purchases to date. Actually I feel like most of these are, but this one is useful constantly!

Palm Router… Of course there is no question that a larger table unit type of router is going to be the end all be all, but for most builders here at TDC, this kind of unit will do the job and then some and all with the ease of portability in a hand held tool. A router is a fabulous addition to your workshop for many reasons, but the main reason I feel this is a good investment is that it can do the job that you might otherwise need a table saw for (rabbets, dadoes, and grooves) and will also deck out your trim with pretty detailing. It’s a fabulous way to cut a template, for example many of the legs we design for seating and even the modern tree shaped bookshelf would absolutely benefit from a router, creating smooth beautiful organic lines as opposed to the sometimes rough cut from a jig saw. Inset hinges? Router. Beautiful inlay wood designs? Router. Freeform pattern and irregular curves and cuts? Router. Picture frame inset? Router. And on and on and on. A super cool tool that has so many possible uses and features it will definitely earn it’s keep.

Belt Sander… This is so very helpful when you are building with less than stellar lumber or you are a newbie to building, without doubt… but even for a more seasoned pro, having a belt sander, in my humble opinion, is like having 7 extra helpers over to help you sand your piece and perfect your build. Once you master your machine, this will greatly speed the sanding process, but be cautious when you are learning or you just might sand off a corner or create an uneccessary groove in your table top about 3 inches wide by 18 or 21 inches long, eek! There are two machines which I would love to get my hands on (I use an ancient Craftsman belt sander), the first is this more expensive Makita beauty for it’s claim to sand edges and corners. This is often the most trying aspect of a sander and why I typically stick to the 1/4 sheet variety for my basic sanding purposes. Those corners are super tricky to get into and sand the way you sand the rest of your piece. I know many of you, especially those of you with an orbital sander, know what I mean. So this Makita has a cloth dust collector and a nose that will allow you to reach those tricky spots with the front rather than the side of your sander. Awesome… Now this SKIL belt sander is priced a little bit more in my league, and has an awesome micro-filtration system with easy empty chamber. Double awesome! It doesn’t have the protruding nose and specialized design for edges and corners like the Makita, but we all have to find our ideal compromise to suit our budgets and our particular needs best, ya? Both of these tools are within the typical size for sanding belts – 3″x18″ or 3″x21″ – which is actually quite important since it means you will be able to replace these with ease and for less cost than a more specialized size that requires a specialty brand of belt. With both sanding supplies and wood filler I always feel like this needs to be considered and it would be lovely if it were possible to buy these items in bulk. I go through them like I blink my eyes and if you haven’t purchased a sander that uses standard sheets or belts, you will pay out a small fortune in sanding materials over time.

Band Saw or Rockwell BladeRunner… Some of the features of this insanely awesome thing are a bit redundant with a few of the previously mentioned tools, BUT, that doesn’t stop this cool guy from being pure genius. The perfect, and much safer option for ripping materials and creating stock from raw lumber. For those of you with access to beautiful species of wood, in it’s raw form, this is the perfect way to make yourself some gorgeous one of a kind furniture with wood that is costly or hard to come by. This particular tool I have linked to here, will scroll, curve, miter, cross cut, and even cut metal and tile without the need for a special water spraying saw! Woot! Ya, pretty awesome and I would donate one of my dogs for this baby! Most band saws will cut in this fashion, though I’m not entirely sure if they will cut metal and tile, but perhaps. Check out a few of Jake’s posts regarding his bandsaw experiences here and here. Isn’t it the end all be all? Indeed.

There may be other amazing things to add to this list, but for me, this is the ‘best of’ list of things that save me amazing amounts of time and energy when I build. I would love to know what your faves are! Please feel free to add your two cents in the comment section here, I would love to know what amazing things I might be missing out on.

Showcase

Reader Showcase: Kileys Benchwright Buffet

01.28.14

This is the buffet I built using the plans from this site. I did change the layout somewhat but I think it came out great. Thanks to Rayan for the plans..

I built this for my girlfriend, seems like I'm building a lot for her lately. She wanted this for storage of her fine china and crystal. I hope everyone likes it.

Estimated Cost 

I estimate the cost around $250.00

Length of Time 

Gosh time just slips away when building but if i had to guess I would say 40 hours total, especially with paint.

Modifications 

The only mod I made is that the doors where not inset like the plans called for.

Lumber Used 

Birch plywood and Poplar drawer fronts.

Finishing Technique 

5 coats total- 1 primer and 4 top coats. The paint is navy blue acrylic latex.

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Walker Etagere

01.27.14
Project Image

There is something so lovely about open shelving that looks at first glance as though it might actually be something else entirely, don’t you think? If you need a bit of extra storage in a small area, like your bathroom, or perhaps want to display cute items rather than storing books and such, this piece is the perfect solution! I can’t wait to see the variations we get with this! Xx… Rayan

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 3’
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2×2 at 65” – Shorter Side Legs
  • 5 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Shorter Side Rungs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 75-1/4” – Taller Side Legs
  • 2 – ¾” dowels at 14-1/2” – Upper Rungs (Taller Side)
  • 5 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Taller Side Rungs
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/4” – Tray Bottoms
  • 5 – 1×3 at 12” – Tray Back
  • 10 – 1×3 at 14” – Tray Sides
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for the shorter side legs. Draw the arc at the top edge of each leg using a compass or a soup can, then cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the shorter side rungs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the taller side legs. Cut a 10 degree angle in the bottom of each leg, and cut the arc using a jigsaw or bandsaw to match the shorter side legs.

Use a ¾” holesaw or paddle bit to cut a ½” deep hole in two places at the top of each leg noting that there will be a right leg and a left leg. Cut two pieces of the dowel rod at 14-1/2” and glue the dowels in the holes of each leg.

Cut the pieces for the rungs. The rungs will be positioned at a 10 degree angle. Measure up 4-1/2” from the front edge of the legs as well as the back edge, and draw a line to connect the two marks. Position the first rung along this line and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Space the remaining rungs accordingly and secure them in the same manner as the first rung.

Step 3
Step 3

Install the hinges on each leg assembly as shown.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trays. Attach the back piece to the back edge of the tray using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Draw the arc on the side pieces using a compass or soup can then cut using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Position each of the trays on the rungs with the back edge flush with the back edge of the shorter side rungs. Secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.