Design / Home / Studio

TDC for HGTV.com and Some Personal Aspirations

02.28.14

I know, right? So exciting! So for those of you who follow along with me on Instagram, you already caught wind of this fun and fabulous announcement, but for those of you who don’t… you totally should! My second article for HGTV is officially live and you can see those here. I couldn’t be more excited to be chatting about trends that cycle and how they manifest in modern times. I will be writing a weekly column for them that focuses on this and I have some fun topics coming up that will even involve some DIY projects that I will be sharing here on the site! Can you dig it?

I actually cant’ believe I didn’t mention this prior to now. I seem to forget to update you guys on some of the amazing things I am working on in real life. How that happens I couldn’t even begin to guess, pretty sure it’s most people’s go to and first topic of choice. It’s something I’m definitely working on this year as one of my many goals, right alongside my mission to DO more, use what I already have in the process and consider it a personal challenge of sorts. I think an interesting thing has happened in the world of DIY blogging that pushes us toward the next big crazy mind blowing project that goes viral and I am making a pledge to myself to shut it down. I love a mind blowing project as much as the next gal, don’t get me wrong. And perhaps I have even been known to do one or two of them myself, but the problem with that is that those projects rarely leave you with a finished, well running, and happy household. It’s probably akin to chasing the dragon, if you know what I mean (I guarantee some of you don’t). Those folks may or may not have remembered to feed their children this morning, and I know this because this is me 99% of the time, so trust me, I’m not judging, just saying…. and I can tell you for certain that things are falling apart at the seams behind those pretty pictures (totally guilty). These social creatures probably haven’t seen their friends or family by choice and for fun in far too long and there may or may not be coffee or diet coke spilled on their shirt at this very moment, that might or might not have even been there for far longer than they care to say, ahem… just sayin.

I have enough trouble focusing on any one project at any given time as it stands. I am quite literally bubbling over with creative ideas 24 hours a day. I. Can’t. Stop. It’s a sickness really and it leads to so much productivity that I’m essentially completely unproductive with my 87 projects going on at once.

So here is where I put an end to this inner competition of sorts. I don’t want to be one of those people who looks back on her life and regrets not spending more time with her boys. Don’t get me wrong, I spend a ton of time with them. Probably too much time with them, in all honesty, but I want to change the quality of time I spend with them and the quality of my life in general. You see, I am happy when I am making things.. I am a maker, through and through. It’s what I live and breath for and it increases the quality of life for my family, betters our surroundings, fosters creativity and teaches my kiddos something pretty spectacular about value and time. A project has never been known to go quickly in my home (remember the 3 month bed that should have taken 4 hours? ya), and frankly that’s fine with me because it forces me to stop and smell the roses along the way (read.. change and diaper and feed my children).

My kids like to participate in everything I do, and I totally get it. I was the same way… except for chores, I did not want to participate in those, and I still don’t actually. Even if it means that I build in the backyard while they play nearby, it works and it’s lovely. I can take 5 minutes and push someone on a swing or toss a ball and then go clamp a board or paint something… It works and we are all happy when I am making. I forget this sometimes and get sucked into computer work or inspiration seeking and so on and so forth. I can’t forego the computer work, after all there is an entire backend to this business I run here at TDC and quite honestly 60% of it is email and accounting and research and writing. And while I adore what I do more than I can express, my goal this year is to work smart and find more time to do what I love and enjoy my life and my family so I look back on my time and think… ‘wow, what a life I lived, look at the things I accomplished, and all of the adventures I had’. My projects will continue, of course, but they will be more focused on things I need and want to do in my home. I won’t be chasing the DIY project dragon and blowing your mind for no reason, but I do have some amazing collaborations in the works that might just blow your mind and ‘go viral’ anyhow, who knows… but I don’t plan to give it a second thought and actually I was entirely kidding. Except for the amazing collabs part, that is true! I have been working on something for a few months now and I am fairly certain it will blow your mind! But more importantly I plan to enjoy this year and get shit done! Do more of what I love, which is to make and to inspire, to design and make pretty, to enjoy and to live fully, and also aparently to teach… This is something new I have learned about myself. And I do not mean teaching the little ones… not sure I am patient enough for that jazz, but teaching you bigger ones… I kind of adore that. We shall see.

So whose with me? Let’s make this year a year of DO, enjoy and live. Life is short, make something special of it. I would like to get a bit more personal sometimes here at TDC so I hope that’s ok with you guys, and I would like to get to know you guys better as well. Let’s make our time here a bit more worthwhile, shall we? I have some fun plans for you all… stay tuned for that. I heart you guys…

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Readers Showcase: Pet Friendly 2×2 Daybed

02.27.14
Readers Showcase: Pet Friendly 2x2 Daybed

Here are pictures of the day bed/futon we made from your plans. We have two cats and one dog in our townhome so finding furniture they can’t destroy is a challenge. I started looking for a futon, but couldn’t find one of the quality or style I liked. When I can across your plans I knew we had to make this for our living room. My husband built it in one day and I painted it. He made it using studs from Lowes and for the bottom he attached plywood over the slats for more support.

We went to the mattress store and bought a high quality futon mattress with a cover that can be removed and washed. I also keep a fitted sheet on the top for the pets. It looks great, and I can always sand it down and repaint if need be. Another good thing about it is that it can easily be used as a bed when needed.

Thank you for the pet friendly furniture!!!

Built From These Plans
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 2×2 Collection Double Sided Daybed
Readers Showcase: Pet Friendly 2x2 Daybed
Readers Showcase: Pet Friendly 2x2 Daybed
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Design Moments: Updates and Artwork in the Nook

02.26.14

It's taken me nearly 6 months, but I finally framed my print. Isn't it divine?

A few of you might have seen the recent curtain debacle over on Instagram a week or so ago… not to worry, I got that mother figured out and on the mend. A prompt tutorial will follow (ha, in all my fast paced glory) and will cover exactly what you might do when you are too lazy to measure and too cheap to pass up a good deal. Truthfully it wasn't so much that they were a good deal, though they really were a good deal at a mere $8 for the pair, but the fact that I had been struggling to figure out what kind of pattern to go with, given the bold nature of my rug and the rather neutral color of it. You can take a peak at that over here. So, I definitely needed a pattern because solid is boring, but what that was going to be I just couldn't quite figure out. Until I spied these beauts at HomeGoods and fell head over heals in love. I knew they would be perfect instantly, and I may have even broken into a sprint when I laid my eyes upon them… but I can't be sure because everything went black and hazy for a quick minute. You know how it is.

I also just happened upon a perfectly sized gallery frame for my Michelle Armas print, that also just happened to be on clearance for $5. I mean… Can we say that the 'get your rear in gear and get shit done' gods were smiling upon me that day? I think we can. I walked out of the store that day with my cart piled 3 feet high, no joke. I also had a gaggle of men helping me carry the heavy stuff. It was downright comical. I have been making, decorating, rearranging, accessorizing and styling for the last 2 weeks straight for projects around the house, for my HGTV articles (I know!), and a few other exciting things in the works which I will share with you in the very near future! Yahoo!

I also had a very unpleasant thing happen to me recently. Remind me to share it with you guys, I could certainly use the feedback and validation. I am not quite ready to chat about it yet, but it has proven a very interesting learning experience for me… only I'm not entirely sure what the end game of this lesson will be just yet, but regardless it's been unpleasant along the way. I could use a virtual group hug… is that a thing? I think it should be if it isn't.

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Reader Showcase: Chris' Boulangerie Table

02.25.14
Reader Showcase: Chris' Boulangerie Table

I found your site awhile back and love it. Recently, I moved from an apartment to a house and now have the space to finally check off my bucket list item of “build things”. For a Christmas gift I built my best friend and his wife a table from your site. Picture is below. The gift was a huge success with plenty of happy tears. Thank you for your site and keep it up! This will be my first of many projects.

PS: The English Bulldog is Cooper… He supervised.

Built From These Plans 
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Table

Reader Showcase: Chris' Boulangerie Table

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Life Sideboard

02.24.14

Such a handsome girl isn’t she! Nice and substantial, a relatively easy build as far as media cabinets and sideboards go. The legs can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal so you don’t have to learn how to weld to make this beauty! Xx… Rayan

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Reader Showcase // Two Toned Glossy and Reclaimed Life Sideboard
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Glossy and Reclaimed Life Sideboard

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1×2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1×4 at 6’
  • 3 – 1×4 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2×2 at 2’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 22-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 69-1/2” – Bottom
  • 5 – 2×2 at 4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 14-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 22-5/8” – End Stretchers
  • 4 – 1×2 at 22-3/4” – Center Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22-5/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 69-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 71” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-5/8” x 23-11/16” – Doors
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1×4 at 21-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/8” x 23-3/8” – Center Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 23-3/8” – Top & Bottom Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edges of the sides and bottom will be flush. The bottom will be ¾” shorter than the sides. This will allow for the back.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces then secure them to the 2×2 legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the leg assemblies to the bottom sides using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws into the top of the 2×2 legs. The leg assemblies will overlap the sides and bottom by ¾” at each end. This will allow for the back and the doors.

Position the remaining 2×2 leg at the center of the bottom. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Treat the pieces as a left and right so that the pocket holes will be hidden in the drawer bank. Position the pieces as indicated in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the shelf will be flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the shelves into the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the back to the bottom and dividers.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overhang by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides, back, dividers, and stretchers.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the doors so that the sides and bottom are flush with the cabinet. The top edge will be 1/8” to allow for the door to open and close without rubbing on the top.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front of the dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 10

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it so that the lower edge is flush with the bottom, and there is a 1/8” between the doors and the sides of the drawer front, then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Continue installing the remaining fronts with a 1/8” gap between them. Install the drawer pulls. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

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Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Adria Dining Table

02.21.14

You know I love an interesting dining table, as evidenced by my most recent build here. I love the intricate seeming nature of this table’s base, especially since I know it isn’t all that difficult to construct, but would certainly seem so… Xx… Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 23 – 1×2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to purchase 8 – 1×6 at 8’ and rip strips on the table saw to 1-1/2” wide)
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 18 – 1×2 at 48” – Base Frame
  • 18 – 1×2 at 14-1/4” – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1×2 at 29-1/4” – Base Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 38-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 41-1/4” x 84” – Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Draw a ¾” radius at each corner and cut out with a jigsaw. Sand the edges thoroughly.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. It will be easier to mark the position for all of the frames on the back side of each leg at the spacing shown (adding for the thickness of the frames), and pre-drill the holes for the screws. Working on a flat surface, attach the legs to the first frame with the bottoms flush, using glue and countersunk 2” screws. Orient the pocket holes in the frame so they face down. Position the next frame, then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws. Continue “layering” the frames. The last frame should be flush with the top of the legs.

Another tip – cut spacers equal to the distance between the frames to help hold the frames in place as they are being secured.

Step 3

Cut the 1×2 pieces for the top frame. Cut a 45° bevel in one long edge of each piece, as well as each end of the longer 1×2 pieces. Secure to the bottom edge of the plywood piece for the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bevels will face out.

Step 4

With the bottom face of the top facing up, flip the base over and position it on the top. The base will sit 18” in from each side and 12” in from each long edge. Secure using 1-1/2” screws through the upper frame in the base into the top

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Design Moments: Out of Sight Out of Mind + Some Peace of Mind for The Master Bath

02.20.14

This post is sponsored by Rolling Door Designs, all ramblings and traumatizing experiences are 100% my own.

So, this here little ditty was take 3 on my rolling door saga. Because I doubted my instincts for a quick minute and listed to my hubster (what was I thinking….). For those of you who have been with us here at the house of TDC for a bit, you know by now that Mr. TDC is a bit of a pessimist, if you will. One of those ‘glass is half empty, every idea is a horrible idea that will definitely not work, no matter what’… kind of guy. While I happen to be one of an entirely different mentality that is more like, ‘yahoo – anything is possible, let’s totally try it, I will figure out how to rock this thing if it kills me’… So ya, we are exact opposites. Occasionally we are a nice balance that way, but sometimes it gets the better of me and I second guess my decisions, and in this instance it led to not one but two re-do’s on this project, the 2nd of which was right back where I originally started and should have just stayed in the first place. Eek. But I will go into that in more detail another day.

Please excuse the photo bomb by our adopted fur baby, Percy. He is just so delightfully awkward that it makes him kind of cute. Kind of…

And, let me back up to say… I found a solution to an ongoing problem we have in this house. Yahoo. Out west, here in northern California – home of the master planned community and the birth of suburbia on steroids… everything is an open plan layout when it comes to home design. At least the majority of the time. Mainly this is lovely, but when the shower in your master bedroom can double as a small room in your home and echoes like a cavernous auditorium, the early morning schedule the Mr. and I keep is a bit of a rude awakening for one (or more) of us on most days. Grumpy is the new black in our household, to be sure. Since most of the members in this family end up in our room at some point during the night (including the dogs), this leads to a pretty steady stream of grouchiness across the board. Since our master bath is also a tad on the darker side, which is ironic in this house given the sheer amount of windows everywhere else, closing it off completely isn’t really a functional option either. So the rolling door is the next best solution! With the high arched doorways, the rolling door leaves an opening at the top that let’s in quite a bit of light and yet closes off such a huge amount of the noise from the shower that it’s become our happily ever after, du jour. I suppose it will have to be something else that creates the grump in this house for a while. I’m sure we can think of something…

This project was no walk in the park, mainly given my indecision and the sheer number of times we literally reinstalled this mother, and there are some quirky deets that will make or break this option for most people, so you will need to plan out your install just a tad and I can show you how to overcome some of the obstacles we faced with the quirks inherant to this house. I will be back for a second post in this series later in the week to share how I installed this beaut, despite these tricky things about our space and some additional info on the door itself. An utterly modern and yet totally vintage piece itself…

Plus doesn’t it just look cool? It’s nice to see a rolling door that is modern in appearance and not barn like. Don’t get me wrong, there isn’t a thing wrong with rustic, but I like to see the diversity in things, don’t you? If you have an awkward area of your home that needs more square footage or that has not such an ideal situation with the way your doors open, a rolling door is such a fabulous option to solve the problem. We are sleeping more easily in the early morning, and I definitely have this invention to thank for it. If you would like to browse the hardware styles and options they have at Rolling Door Designs, be my guest, they are quite lovely. The style you see here in my article is the Don Draper… doesn’t it just sound awesome, right out of the gate?

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Nova Club Chair

02.19.14
Project Image

On Monday I shared the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Sofa, and today the matching chair! That is pretty exciting my friends, and I feel like we can help usher in the warmer temps just by sending those positive springtime thoughts out into the universe, don’t you? A little mind over matter, yeah? No? Well then, I suppose we will just have to settle for living the dream since it doesn’t seem the weather is going to cooperate for many of you, any time soon. At least you can get a jump start on your springtime builds though, and be ready for the even first hint of warmth. That is definitely something…. Xx… Rayan

Now that we have finished out the collection you can find the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Coffee Table and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table and round out your set!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 15 – 1×2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 5 – 1×6 at 8’ then rip them into 1×2 strips on the table saw)
  • 5 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1×8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2×6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×8 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 6- 2×6 (ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21-3/4” – Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 31-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 2×2 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 34-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 3 – 2×2 at 23” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2×2 at 7-3/4” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 26” x 28-1/2” – Seat
  • 2 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23” – Arms
  • 1 – 1×3 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Inner Back Slats
  • 2 – 1×3 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 6 – 1×2 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 4 – 1×3 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 18 – 1×2 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1×3 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 15 – 1×2 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 6 – 1×2 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 2 – 1×8 (ripped to 6” wide at 32”) – Trim
  • 1 – 1×8 at 36” – Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge and one long edge of each leg.(There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge only of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arms and drill pocket holes at one end only. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Step 7
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1×3 slat will be shorter than the 1×2 slats. Position the 1×3 slat between the inner back legs then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1×2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Step 8
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The back trim piece angles should be cut at 39 degrees and the side trim piece angles should be cut at 51 degrees, provided the chair is square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Posts may contain affiliate links

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sofa

02.17.14
Project Image

What do you think? Could you cozy up on this beauty come summer? Well, with a nice fluffy cushion or 12? I could… and honestly I’m craving spring and summer so very much right now that all I want to do is sit and stare at the sky and wish for warmer temps… while I’m bundled up in gloves and a scarf. But really I live in Northern California and so it’s not really that cold and so clearly I’m a wimp. It’s certainly nowhere near as chilly as it is for those of you in the midst of this snowpocalypse (am I spelling that right? eek). I’m so very for you guys and I know you feel me when I wish for warmer weather. Though I don’t think it would hurt my feelings much to have so many ‘snow days’ off of school. Remind me to tell you the story about how I accidentally became a room mom for my boy’s kindergarten class. It’s kind of a big job. Xx… Rayan

Now that we have finished out the collection you can find the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Club Chair, the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Coffee Table and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table and round out your set!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 23 – 1×2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 8 – 1×6 at 8’ then rip them into 1×2 strips on the table saw)
  • 6 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1×8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×8 at 8’
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2×6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×8 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 6- 2×6 (ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21-3/4” – Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 77” – Back Stretcher
  • 9 – 2×2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 71” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 80” – Upper Back
  • 5 – 2×2 at 23” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2×2 at 7-3/4” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 26” x 74” – Seat
  • 2 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23” – Arms
  • 1 – 1×3 at 71” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1×2 at 74” – Inner Back Slats
  • 2 – 1×3 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 6 – 1×2 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 4 – 1×3 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 18 – 1×2 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1×3 at 81-1/2” – Back & Front Slats
  • 15 – 1×2 at 81-1/2” – Back & Front Slats
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 6 – 1×2 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 2 – 1×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 32” – Trim
  • 1 – 1×8 at 81-1/2” – Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, three of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the wider legs.(There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back leg and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for three of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge only of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arms and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Step 7
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1×3 slat will be shorter than the 1×2 slats. Position the 1×3 slat between the inner back legs then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1×2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Step 8
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The back trim piece angles should be cut at 39 degrees and the side trim piece angles should be cut at 51 degrees, provided the chair is square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // This post may contain affiliate links.

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Design / Shopping

It's Friday I'm In Love: Valentine Edition

02.14.14

Happy Valentine's Day Lovers! You know I'm a big fan of this heart shaped holiday, but decorating for it… not so much. I do however, love a good love fest any time of the year. So naturally, I have rounded up a few of my favorite items that will spice things up whenever you like, without having a shelf life that expires the minute February 14th comes to a close. Lord knows I am late to the party every single time anyhow and my holiday decor is up for an extra month (or two) without fail, so items that work well regardless of the season or holiday is precisely what I need.

I love a good Himmeli piece, as you might have noticed here and here, so this heart shaped beauty is very likely on my list of 'must make' items. For those of you who prefer not to hurt your brain figuring this out, you can purchase this baby here. A heart shaped print is fabulous all the time, but a heart shaped print in neon or geometric is perfection, yeah? Seriously, how sweet is this lovely little striped heart pillow. It would be amazing in a nursery (or anywhere for that matter). While this heart print weekender bag isn't exactly home decor, it would be lovely as a storage bag that could be left on display and would make for the perfect bag to bring on a romantic getaway… not that I know anything about that (thank you sweet children in my life). I love a neon sign, and actually purchased this one a few months back. Perhaps I will get around to installing it sometime next year – maybe even before Valentine's Day rolls around again (not likely). Let's make out, shall we? I think a nice daily reminder to make out with your man (or woman) is helpful and a great way to keep each day happy and productive! Especially this day. If that is a little too direct for you, this sweet peach little number should be a bit more subtle but not so subtle that the message is overlooked entirely! Yahoo.

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