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Plans
By special reader request, this fabulous multi-function piece serves as storage, display, and of course easily divides a space into multiple living areas. You know I love a good multi-function piece so this is a no brainer, especially since it’s a rather straightforward build! Easy Peasy in fact… Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Lumber
- 2 – 3” x 3” posts at 8’ (If 3” x 3” posts cannot be found, 4” x 4” posts can be ripped down on a table saw, or a stacked 1×3 and 2×3 which have been glued together can be used as well.)
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1- 2’x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Cut List
- 4 – 3” x 3” posts cut at 78-3/4” – Legs
- 6 – 1×2 at 40-1/2” Stretchers
- 2 – 1×3 at 40-1/2” – Stretchers
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 40-1/2” – Narrow Shelves
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 40-1/2” – Wider Shelves
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the front face of the legs. Make two of the assemblies.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the narrower shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs and the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the wider shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs at the dimensions indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
By special reader request, a tower shelving unit to use as a stand alone bar! Isn’t it dreamy? I absolutely love this idea, you guys are so clever! Ps… we will hopefully have our forum back up and running and (fingers crossed) working better than ever here soon. It will be a place you enjoy hanging out I think and the perfect place for you to request plans, ask questions, and share your amazing knowledge!
In the meantime, TDC has partnered with Kleenex to share how lovely their new designs are. Thank you guys for clicking over to check them out. It’s partnerships like these that help keep the blog wheels turning and the plans and articles publishing each week! You can see my #KleenexStyle here, as well as another sneak peek of my master bedroom overhaul. It’s going to be soooo good you guys! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Lumber
- 7 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 8’ piece of decorative trim approx. ¾” x ¾”
Cut List
- 6 – 1×2 at 15” – Lower Shelf Trim & Lower Top
- 4 – 1×2 at 27” – Lower Shelf Trim
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 27” – Lower Shelves & Lower Top
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Lower Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/8” x 27” – Lower Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-3/8” – Lower Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Drawer Spacers
- 3 – 1×2 at 27” – Lower Stretchers & Upper Stretcher
- 1 – 1×2 at 12-1/8” – Lower Divider
- 2 – 1×2 at 30” – Lower Top Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 49-1/4” – Upper Legs
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 49-1/4” – Upper Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 32” – Upper Top
- Upper trim cut to fit
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 27” – Upper Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×3 at 26” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 26-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-7/8” x 12-7/8” – Doors
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the lower shelves, the lower shelf trim, and the lower legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the trim pieces, as well as all four edges of the shelf pieces. Secure the trim pieces to the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Secure the shelves to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the lower back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the sides will be flush with the side faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Position as shown, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the lower divider. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretcher and the shelf trim.
Step 5
Cut the trim pieces and the panel for the lower top. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top, as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Position the lower top so that it is flush with the legs, sides, back, and stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the upper legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of two of the legs (for the back) and one end only of the remaining two. Secure them at each corner of the lower top (with the pocket holes facing to the back) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 7
Cut the piece for the upper back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the lower top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.
Step 8
Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the upper top. The piece will overhang by 1” at the sides and front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the upper trim. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the type of trim that is chosen. Cut and install the sides first, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then cut and install the front.
Step 9
Install the shelving standards on the upper back locating them approximately 8” from the center of the back. (See the manufacturer’s installation instructions) Install the shelf brackets, then cut the shelves and set in place.
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.
Step 11
Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then mark and install the hinges on the legs. Install the cabinet pulls.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affiliate links
Home / Studio
I have been writing away over at HGTV and stirring up some fabulous controversy over a few of the current trends du jour. I am playing catchup here just a tad but wanted to update you lovely folks on the articles I have published so far! This topic of trends and where they came from, where they seem to be now, how they have morphed and changed this time around, and how you feel about them is one of my favorite things to talk about, without doubt. I like to think about all things cultural that lead us to these places where we embrace a style from the past. On a daily basis, most people aren't even aware (including me) of the cause and effect relationship between what's happening around us and what we are drawn to in fashion and decor. I can tell you what I long for in the winter time is so very different from what I long for in the summertime, and this is just on a personal level. Imagine how things like the economy and societal issues are bound to affect us. Of course they are, it's just not as likely we will be able to pin point the exact reason why we are drawn to a particular style of crafts or sofas without really making some serious connections and doing a bit of research. This is where my HGTV articles come into play. The series I have been writing is a Past Meets Present line of articles that usually discusses one particular decor item and it's comeback. While it's not entirely necessary to completely run through a style and it's history, I have to admit the nerd in me sort of loves to, and I have to hold back a bit to be honest. No one wants a history lesson with a side of cow hide, now do they… unless you are like me and you lost your marbles long ago.
So far I have chatted about Ceramics, Brass Fixtures in the Kitchen, Lucite, Fiber Art, and Cow Hide Rugs… I'm sure you have seen these items flood the marketplace and I'm curious if most of you are swept away in bliss with the reemergence of any of these trends or if you still have a bad taste in your mouth from the last go around. Maybe a bit of both. Some of these styles had their most recent heyday quite recently so a few of these are still likely fairly fresh in many of your minds (ahem… shiny brass builder grade fixtures or southwestern style in the 90's), so are you ready to give any of them another go, in a new modern way, or do you need a time out this time around? What are some of the trends you are seeing that you are excited about or are absolutely dreading? Can't wait to hear… I have so many more to talk about, I hope you will tune in and share your thoughts along with me. I love to hear what you have to say!
Plans
By special reader request, the very fabulous Morris Chair! To construct your own cushions using foam, the measurements would be 20″ x 24″ x 2″ for the back cushion and 20″ x 24″ x 4″ for the seat cusion. All I have is spring and the outdoors on my mind, so I envision this might make a nice outdoor chair as well as a classic indoor chair. The original designer just may be rolling over in his grave at the moment, now that I mentioned that, but I believe in using things to their fullest so to heck with it all, ha! Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 3’
- 4 – caps to fit on the end of the dowels
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 – 3×3 posts at 3’ (or make your own by laminating 2 – 2x4s together then squaring and ripping to size on the table saw)
- 2 – 1×6 at 25-5/16” – Back Legs
- 2 – 3×3 posts at 27-1/4” – Front Legs
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) at 20” – Upper Side Frame
- 2 – 1×6 at 20” – Lower Side Frame
- 6 – 1×2 at 7” – Side Frame Spindles
- 1 – 1×6 at 24” – Front Stretcher
- 1 – 1×2 at 24” – Seat Frame Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Frame Front
- 2 – 1×2 at 20-3/16” – Seat Frame Sides
- 1 – 1×2 at 19-5/16” – Seat Frame Support
- 2 – 1×4 at 33-3/4” – Arm Rests
- 6 – 1×3 at 24” – Seat Slats
- 2 – 1×2 at 24-1/2” – Back Frame
- 6 – 1×3 at 22-1/2” – Back Frame Slats
- 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 28” – Seat Pivot & Back Adjustment
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
There are several pieces that will have angles cut in the ends or bevels cut on the edges. It may be easiest to mark all of the pieces as they are cut.
Cut the pieces for the back legs, the side frames, the side spindles, and the front legs. The top of the back legs and the front legs will have a 5° angle cut in the top edge. The top frame pieces will be 1x3s that are ripped to 3-1/4” wide, then tapered to 1-1/2” at one end. The taper can be cut using a jigsaw or by using a tapering jig on the table saw. When drilling pocket holes in these two pieces, they will be treated as a right and a left – mark the pieces accordingly.
Using the ¾” paddle bit or hole saw, drill a hole in the back legs as indicated in the drawing. There will be a right piece and a left piece!
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame pieces, the lower frame pieces, and the spindles. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside of the frames will be flush with the inside face of the front 3×3 legs. Don’t forget – there will be a right frame and a left frame!
Cut the pieces for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the front legs.
Cut the pieces for the seat frame. The entire seat will slant to the back by 5°. The front and back pieces will have a 5° bevel cut along one long edge while the side and support frame pieces will have a 5° angle cut in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end of the front frame piece and the center support, then drill pocket holes in the back end only of the side frame pieces. There will be a right and a left side frame piece!
Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the lower side frame pieces and the front stretcher as shown – the front is located 2-1/4” down from the top of the front stretcher and 4” down from the top of the side stretcher. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the arm rests. Secure to the front legs, back legs, and upper frame piece using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Mark the radius in each end of the back frame pieces and cut using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Mark the position for the holes, and cut them using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Secure them to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails. The upper hole (to adjust the position of the back) should fall in between slats.
Cut one of the ¾” dowel rods. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the lower holes in the back, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on each end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out.
Step 7
The holes in the back legs to adjust the position of the back will be drilled last. They are not shown in the drawing because they have to be positioned in an arc.
To mark the holes, the back should go no farther forward than the front edge of the back leg (basically straight up and down). Mark through the upper hole in the back side frame. For the lowest reclining position, the back edge of the frame should not go any farther back than the back edge of the leg. The center position will be located somewhere in between the forward and back position. Drill the holes using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.
Cut the remaining ¾” dowel rod. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the upper holes in the back frame, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on ONE end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out – the other end will need to remain free for reclining adjustment.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Showcase
This turned out really well. With some black stain, it matches my other furniture really well. I hope to have time to use more of your plans in the near future. Next project is a sideboard!
Plans
A great way to store those toys both little and big! You can stack these units up by two or three and add that much more storage to your space. When in doubt always go vertical! You can view our other plans for stylish storage options and plans for coordinating children’s furniture too! Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- Scrap of 2×2 at least 16” long
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- ¾” x 1-1/2” trim at 8’ for lower portion (the trim can be made by routing a decorative edge on a 1×2)
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 18-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 35-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – 2×2 at 15-1/4” – Lower Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 35-1/2” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 35-1/2” – Lower Front Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 35-1/2” – Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 38-1/2” – Top
- 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 37” – Upper Trim
- 2 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for sides (measure and cut to fit)
- 1 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for front (measure and cut to fit)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the piece as a square first, then draw out the angles and cut them using a jigsaw or bandsaw.
Cut the piece for the bottom and cut a 26° bevel in the front edge. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the lower portion of the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 2×2 piece for the support. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the support.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the bottom as well as the sides. Secure to the bottom and sides of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 1×2 piece for the lower front support. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the divider. Using the same method as the sides, cut the piece as a square first, then cut the angles. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Secure to the bottom and back of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the front and cut a 26° bevel in the bottom edge. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the front and through the front into the divider.
Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by ¾” and the back will remain flush. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the lathe strip for the upper trim. Secure to the sides and the divider using glue and 1” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the lower trim. No measurements are given because it will depend if the pieces will have a square cut at the ends or a miter cut. Measure and cut the sides to fit first, then measure and cut the front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Design / Shopping
It's Friday! Somehow as my boy has gotten a bit older and is now in school 5 days a week, I am so much more aware of the days and that means Fridays are now something I look forward to from first thing Monday morning on. It's kind of a bummer I have to admit. I think I preferred living in bliss and completely in ignorance of which day of the week it is or even what month, much of the time. But… such is life, right?
As I have been working my fingers to the bone on some amazing projects here at the House of TDC (literally I'm afraid… bloody knuckles and all), I am dreaming about all of the things I would love to buy with the simple click of a button. Maybe if that tree right there was actually made of money, I could make it so…
I am still loving the idea of a simplified and thoughtful space at the moment, filled only with items I love and that are useful to me. This hoop mirror has my heart (even though I seem to be anti-mirror at the moment) with it's easy minimal style and unfussy personality. Maybe because I'm feeling precisely the opposite of that right now – le sigh. Don't washed linen sheets sound so utterly luxurious? Maybe if I'm more intentional with each individual piece in my home, then one day when I grow up, those pieces might become a bit more luxe themselves… maybe. Who am I kidding.. this is entirely unlikely, but a gal can dream. Gorgeous ceramic mugs are right in line with how I envision my idyllic life, which is of course nothing even remotely close to my real life, which happens to be ridiculously out of control at the moment. This gorgeous tree via Daniella Witte isn't so much a product or a find as a beautiful reminder that baskets are a fabulous planter option and a lovely way to bring some texture into a space when baskets themselves might not otherwise work or be necessary. A narrow profile, adjustable, interesting, coat rack slash ladder looking cool thing with potentially multiple uses is exactly the kind of piece I absolutely need, adore and want. But it's these oversized neon wire baskets that are way out of my price range (now and forevermore) that I am completely obsessed with at the moment. Ugh. I could fill them with so many amazing things and I just know they would make me be so organized and on top of things, I might even be 15 minutes early to every meeting and fold all my laundry for a whole week… You see how that self-bargaining thing goes… It's all downhill from here folks.
Plans
I have been wanting a bar cart for a long time, haven’t you? If I can’t have my vintage dream, which it seems I can’t, a handbuilt beauty is perhaps an even better option since I get the satisfaction of making it! The cart can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal if you wish, and it would be so dreamy in brass, don’t you think? Xx… Rayan
Sponsored // Psst… You can check out your #KleenexStyle by clicking here and discover the perfect design to suit your decor. No more hiding those boxes during this up coming sinus season… can I get a yahoo for that?
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Lumber
- 8 – ¾” square dowels at 3’ (or pieces ripped from a 1x board)
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2×4 ripped in half)
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 30-1/2” – Legs
- 1 – 2×2 at 23” – Handle
- 4 – 2×2 at 20” – Leg Frames
- 2 – 2×2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
- 2 – ¾” square dowels at 20” – Rails
- 2 – ¾” square dowels at 34-1/2” – Rails
- 28 – ¾” square dowels at 5” – Spindles
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the legs and frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well the top edge of the longer legs. Do not drill pocket holes in the handle piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the handle to the longer legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 3
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the stretchers and frame pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers and frame pieces.
Step 4
Cut the pieces for the rails. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the longer pieces. Mark the position for the spindles on the longer pieces, then secure the spindles using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Mark the position for the spindles on the stretchers and frame pieces. Secure the rail assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Align the spindles with the marks on the stretchers and frame pieces, then secure them using toenailed 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 5
Attach the casters to the bottom of the legs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing casters, click here.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
//Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Post contains affiliate links
Showcase
Thanks for this plan. It was an easy build and the little guy seems to like it. 🙂
Finishing Technique
Red enamel paint for trim and legs
Plans
On Monday we posted plans for a Children’s Two Tone Play Table, and today the most adorable chair to go along side it. I will definitely be building this set, I just can’t quite decide who it will be for… the bird or the bug. Probably my older boy, but I’m not entirely sure of my vision for his space just yet. I can finally see the space coming together for the bird, thank gawd, and I can see all of the various pieces I would love to have in his room and it’s going to be amazing! Unfortunately he would probably need to move into the master bedroom to make it all of it work so I will be downsizing my ‘vision’ substantially. Once a dreamer, always a dreamer… Xx… Rayan
Pssst…. I will be starting a fun new project with you all very shortly (hopefully this afternoon, but you know how it goes around here) and I think you are going to like it a lot… stay tuned for the announcement and get your typing fingers ready my friends. That is all I will say for now!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 15-7/8” – Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 11-7/16” – Leg Frames (Top)
- 2 – 2×2 at 9-5/16” – Leg Frames (Stretchers)
- 2 – 2×2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Stretchers
- 1 – 2×2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Lower Stretcher
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7 x 11-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 12” – Seat
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Cut 7° angles in each piece as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top end of the leg pieces, as well as each end of the stretcher pieces. Attach the legs to the top piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The lower stretcher is ripped to 1-1/4” wide so that it can be positioned on the leg perpendicular to the floor and not stick out past the angle of the legs.
Step 3
Cut the piece for the back. Mark the position for the slots (the center of the holes will be spaced at 5-1/2” on center) and cut a hole at each mark using a 1-1/2” paddle bit or hole saw. Draw a line (vertically) to connect each pair of holes, then cut along the lines with a jigsaw. Cut a 5° bevel in the lower edge of the back piece. This makes the back rest on the seat at an angle making for a comfortable seat!
Step 4
Cut the piece for the seat. Secure the back to the back edge of the seat using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Position the seat on the frame so that approximately ¾” overlaps the front stretcher and the edge of the back is flush with the back of the arms. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the arms into the back. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the seat to the stretchers.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links
Showcase
This is one of the tables I made from the plans on your website. Thank you for supplying these plans for anyone to use.
Modifications
On the coffee table I installed an extra row of 2″ spacers down the center of the table top. On the legs I laced an inside leg to create a T shaped leg. Also I added 2 shelves under the table to hold remotes. Lastly, the legs are removable. I used 4 1/2″ threaded rod, like the hinges on the end tables. The reason for this is that it weighed way to much to move. I also only made the table about 30″x51″ instead of 35 1/4″x51″.
Lumber Used
Made of 3/4″ pine plywood, ripped down.
Plans
I hope you all had an amazing weekend! I had so many plans to do so many things, and while I didn’t do a single one of them, I did manage to get in some good family time and fun so I suppose that makes it all worthwhile! You know worthwhile is at the top of my list going forward so I fairly pleased with myself. Though next weekend I plan to build… I hope. And this fabulous table and the matching chair (plans to come shortly) and on my list for the Bird’s major room overhaul. I say overhaul as though it’s undergoing a renovation or redecoration, but in truth it’s actually only being decorated for the first time since we moved almost a year ago. Eek, how’s that for slow decorating.. Might be a new record. Now, let’s get back to the important stuff, shall we?
I adore things in miniature, don’t you? While this isn’t precisely miniature, it is small enough to be fit for your littles, which naturally makes it adorable. I kind of love the fact that it has what appears to be handles… Seems like an easy way to relocate this baby for a fun afternoon of play or snack time. Or perhaps for removing the fun afternoon of play after your child proceeds to throw his delicious snack time at his brothers face and dance on the furniture in celebration… oh, that doesn’t happen to you? Ya me either… Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Lumber
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 25-11/16” – Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 14-7/16” – Leg Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 12-13/16” – Leg Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 46-3/4” – Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 45-1/4” – Aprons
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Cut 7° angles in each piece as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top end of the leg pieces. Attach the legs to the top piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×3 pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with the inside face of the 1×3 flush with the inside face of the legs.
To cut the notch for the top, set the rip fence on a table saw 4” from the blade and the blade set at a depth of ¾”. Make a pass through the saw with each leg assembly (the top of the leg assembly will run along the rip fence). Reset the fence at 4-1/4” and make another pass with each assembly. Reset the fence at 4-1/2” and make a pass, then 4-3/4” and make a pass. This will cut the notches as needed. Remove any remaining material in the notches with a sharp chisel.
Step 2
Cut the piece for the top and apply edge banding. Pre-drill the holes for the countersunk screws where the notches are located to secure the top. Secure the top in the notches using glue and 2-1/2” screws.
Step 3
Cut the 1×3 pieces for the aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs under the table top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top corner of the aprons will be flush with the leg – in other words, the apron will remain perpendicular to the floor and not follow the angle of the legs.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links
