Showcase

Reader Showcase: From a Limb to a Box // How to Make a Box From a Fallen Mesquite Branch

05.13.14
How to Turn a Mesquite Branch into a Box

My neighbor brings to me from his ranch near Sinton, Texas, mesquite tree limbs and roots he finds on the ground, as well as really old (50+ years) cedar fence posts to see what I can do with them. Candle holders are a favorite but I also like to cut the timber into lumber that I can use to build boxes. The Showcase photo is made from one such Mesquite tree limb. I encourage everyone to try this with their favorite tree after it loses a limb. I learned recently that there is an Ebony tree that grows wild in South Texas. I look forward to giving that wood a try very soon.

How to Make a Box from a Mesquite Branch

First I cut the limb up into strips of lumber about 1/2″ or 1/4″ in thickness. Then I select which piece will be used for the sides, ends, bottom and top. The top and bottom have to less than 1/4″ in thickness as they will slide through channels I rout with a 1/4″ straight bit on the sides and ends. The sides and ends thickness’ just have to approximate each other. All have to be square and flat which is where I spend hours sanding and cutting. This is my justification for a planer for Father’s day.

Once you have all of the pieces the way you want them just glue them up and finish.

The final result is the well-known Pencil Box….

Estimated Cost

Mostly sandpaper, glue, and oil. Maybe $5

Length of Time

I would say I spent two hours a day for a week. I could do it in half that time if I just would not offer myself so many alternatives.

Lumber Used

Mesquite

Finishing Technique

Lots of sanding. Inside I sanded to 120 grit and the outside 320 grit. After sanding two applications of Danish oil and then once the oil was dry a nice coat of Johnson paste wax.

Home / Shopping

The Great Rug Caper // Finding My Neutral Durable Layer

05.13.14
Options for A Neutral Durable Rug Layer

I have been on the most amazing hunt recently and I'm not entirely sure I have found the perfect solution or even a good one just yet, but fingers crossed I just may have. I can tell you that there are no less than 1.2 billion options for rugs out there and I have browsed through virtually all of them in the last few months. I eat, sleep, and dream rugs right now. Also chairs and lamps but that is a story for another week, ya? I can only imagine that many of you have experienced this very same search at one time or another as well, so I figure perhaps we should compare notes… Or console each other and cry together, because this can easily be one of those brutal and difficult finds for your home if budget is a concern and you also happen to have special needs to consider and fill, while you try and stick within the confines of your coffers.

I always glaze over and chuckle with a slightly deranged laugh, which is really more like a cry or even a sob, when I hear people throw about phrases like 'budget friendly options' and then proceed to list off pillows for under $100 or rugs for every budget and they are priced at $1000 or more for a 4×6 or a 5×7. I mean… in what world is that actually budget friendly for an average person… because, please take me there, I want to live there, forever and ever, yahoo. And seriously if I only ever needed a 5×7 rug I think I might do a cartwheel, or 7. I never ever need anything smaller than a 6×9, and typically I need an 8×10, always.

Unless I am living alone on poor man's island here, that just isn't realistic for most of us who work for a living as a means to support our families and not as a hobby that provides disposable income for shopping. Or, for those of us who need rugs in our homes for the purpose of keeping our children in one piece… Bird I'm looking at you kiddo, Mommy would be soooo proud if you could stop banging your adorable forehead on the ceramic tile floor. Ugh. Maybe you need rugs on the floor to keep the heating costs down in the winter, or to cover that crazy stain on your carpet while you save your pennies for new flooring… whatever your reason, I hear you loud and clear and I feel your pain. The general cost of these items is for the most part so very high that I'm priced right out of the market before I even get my foot in the door. If my entire downstairs is bathed in ginormous ceramic tile, which it is, then by my calculations (which are totally accurate of course) that equals approximately 8 point 4 million dollars worth of rugs that need to be purchased for me to keep the Bird's brain intact until he is old enough to avoid sudden death on his own = Just. Not. Affordable.

More Options for A Neutral Durable Rug Layer

It's an arduous task at best to find something large enough to suit my needs that I can also afford, but throw in any special circumstances… 'Bird, Mommy is looking at you again honey'… like dogs or kids who spill, and feel the need to lay or roll around on the floor, or crunch milk bones you can essentially just forget having anything special or on trend most of the time. It's enough to bring on the maniacal, semi-deranged (ok completely deranged) sounding laughter (complete and utter sob). It's bad enough that as parents we have to go without certain things while the 'kids' are still in the house, but to have to go without because of budget is a hard one to swallow. There are more than a few items that are extremely high priced in the world of retail, and rugs are one of those things, but I'm happy to report that at least where rugs are concerned, there are in fact some absolutely amazing options that are not only large and in charge but totally real world affordable. I can't say as much for some of the other items, ahem… but in my great rug search… I certainly had a few silver lining moments these last several weeks. I have in fact found what I consider to be some reasonable options that are budget friendly on my real world level and fill my own personal criteria for keeping the Bird from getting brain damage (meaning thick and cushiony) and also maybe even solving for durability and dirt (taking this baby outside to clean is not an option… I will share a funny story about this later). Maybe. I might have to keep you posted on that status, but on paper it's good. I heard from a few readers over on the HGTV blog, and so I followed their advice and gave things a whirl. So far so good, and I shall spill the beans with you guys on the my empirical science project once I have some steadfast results. Ha!

Today I'm sharing my process with you, the good, the bad, and the just won't worky in my housey, but I totally still lovey. le sigh. Of course we should talk about my needs while we are at it. You know, like therapy. Clearly I need therapy and lot's of it. Keep it coming..

Needs: large, cushiony and thick, light in color since the space feels dark with a darker rug (I tried this option-wasn't a good look), durable, easy to clean and care for or doesn't show dirt.

-The hardest part here is thick in a light color and durable. I mean it doesn't get more ironic than that set of contrasting requirements.

Options:

-Jute: This option is durable, can be thick ranging to extremely chunky, has great texture, but can be rough or at least isn't always soft and is a bit monotone especially in a large size.

-Leather: I hear this is the bees knees when it comes to durability and I love that it provides interest and potentially can provide a light color. Thickness is not something this will give me, however. So close…

-Shag: This will give me the cush and softness I'm seeking, but in a light color I will have the issue of dirt and spills needing to be cleaned or showing badly and that becomes a problem after about 2 or 3 months.

-Indoor/Outdoor: This is a fabulous solution for easy cleanability and crazy good durability especially with kids and pets, but unfortunately this lacks the cush I need to keep the Bird's head bump free.

The Neutral Durable Rug Layer Collection of Options

Finds:

1 // Leather Patchwork Rug – totally durable, naturally stain repellant (you don't see many cows walking around with stains…), light and bright, but not quite thick enough and way out of my price range most of the time. But oh so pretty and lovely, ya? 2 // Anji Mountain Herringbone Jute – This beauty is textural, durable, large, thick and by golly much softer than you might expect. A fab contender. 3 // Tangier Rug – Nice pattern, perhaps a bit busy for my purposes but definitely cush and thick. Whether it's soft or not I couldn't say, but it's definitely pricey. 4 // Pasargad Moroccan – This gal is cushy and interesting, light and not to dark, patterned and perfect but oh so very pricey for me. 5 // Tangier Tribal Rug – Love the Pattern and lightness, and the thickness is good, but it only comes in a 5×8 so I would need 2 which makes it more pricey than I want. 6 // Izteca Rug – Durable, probably soft with the addition of chenille along with the jute, good pattern, but way too thin. If thin works for you, a great option for sure since price isn't bad at all. 7 // Kaleen Herringbone Jute – This gal is a beauty and at an 8×10 size she comes in at $439 so for me this is tolerable for a large rug. I would prefer $199, but let's be real that is a bit of a fantasy price most of the time.

8 // Moderna Shag Rug – Not a Beni Ourain but a much more budget friendly option, let's call it the Budget Beni, shall we? Light in color, but not solid and so not boring, soft and cushy, but definitely going to show the dirt and spills after a couple of months, and too pricey for me at $811. 9 // Leather + Hemp Rug – This gorgeous beast is textural and durable, the perfect specimen coming in at under $200 for a 9×12 which is pure insanity folks… but she's thin, ugh. 10 // Woodstock Jet Black – How cute is this guy? He isn't quite so cute in a larger size unfortunately, but moderately priced, durable, textural and moderately thick so not a bad option all around. I would like to pay less of course… 11 // Marrakech Shag Rug – another Beni Ourain on a Budget style rug and a lovely version with great cushiony fluff, but again with that light color it would be toast in two months flat at my house. And at just under $700 for an 8×10, more than I would like to pay. What can I say, I'm cheap I guess. 12 // Waide Neutral – Nice texture but a bit pricey and a tad on the monotone side, ya? Also way too thin for the bird… 13 // Leather Matador Rug – Big, Cheap, Bold, Beautiful, Bright, the only downside is this baby isn't thick and cushy. But might be great for layering.

Layered Jute Herringbone Rug with Cowhide Rug

Here is my stroke of genius, that many others have had before me and isn't my stroke of genius at all except for the fact that I finally caught on to the concept. So, a big huge duh I guess… Layering, ya. I mean I always got the point – to a point. But I sort of thought it was more about the look than any real purpose, so clearly I have other special needs that I should probably address in the very near future, but just in case you do too I will spell it out. It's so that those of us with 'special flooring needs' can join in on the stylish side of design at ground level when we wish to without investing much in the way of budget (or size). If I purchase a super sized neutral durable layer for my main squeeze layer, and then when the mood strikes I purchase something fun in a much smaller size, I won't feel so bad when I tire of that thing…. aaaannnndddd… because it can be smaller, it will be a less expensive trend for me to enjoy for a fleeting amount of time. I don't know why it took me so long to figure this out. Are you all rolling your eyes at me right now with a big loser sign in the air. Yes sometimes the blond isn't just surface level my friends… My family is laughing their asses off right now because while I may appear very studious at times (especially with my glasses on), when I have my less than intelligent moments, they are whoppers. Oh ya. And usually quite hilarious, so frankly I could care less and can enjoy them too.

So here are two of my faves right now for layering combos: The jute and cowhide rug combo and the jute and colorful turkish rug combo. One brings light and brightness with good durability and interest (the cowhide) and the other brings some color, global presence and interest.

Layered Jute Herringbone Rug with Vintage Turkish Tulu Rug

Are you into the layering thing? What are you loving right now for inexpensive rug choices? Please fill me in on your finds… I'm all ears my friends!

Showcase

Readers Showcase: The Babs Blog Provence Beam Dining

05.12.14

I hope you guys had an amazing Mother’s Day yesterday! Mine was… well…adventurous to say the least. I shall fill you all in shortly, but I wanted to pop in and share this gorgeous showcase with you all! One of my fun adventures this weekend just happened to be a failing hard disk on my new laptop… so very awesome! So I have reverted back to my old laptop, which can’t be unplugged and that’s annoying beyond belief for someone who likes to move as quickly and as sporadically as I do. But one good thing that comes of this is a whole slew of showcase posts I had bookmarked on the old girl that I had forgotten about. Yay for silver linings… and yay for this gals hubby who went out and built her this beauty in a day when she mentioned she might like such a thing. Can I borrow him sometime? I have a few things I haven’t been able to get to myself, and I think one day is a fabulous turnaround time, I like his style! I also really like her photoshop cafe lights, which she jokes about, but seriously are pretty professional looking. In fact I kinda had to look twice because at first glance my brain automatically assumed they were real lights, ha! Xx… Rayan

This is part of our Reader Showcase series I like to call ‘spotted’ where I run across a gorgeous build on the interwebs and decide to share it with you guys, so it’s posted and written by me but under a profile for the gorgeous folks who did the hardwork and punched the clock. That way you don’t think I built it and give me more credit than I deserve… know what I mean? Yahoo. And yes, I have a showcase queue 100 miles long and I will be posting double overtime to get through them all and share all of your amazing talents with everyone! Sorry I’m such a slowpoke! Eek

Do you have a build you might like me to showcase? Awesome! Send me an email or post it to a social media site and be sure to tag me @thedesconf or @thedesignconfidential (depending on which venue you choose) and tag your build with #builtTDCtuff so we can see your stuff. I just might show you off to this amazing group of people who love to see what others are building!

Psst…. the community pages are ready to roll (I think… fingers crossed) so get your poll voting, button clicking fingers ready and feel free to post your project requests! You will need to register for my site to be able to post there, but once you set up a profile, go forth and request a project or post a question if you like!

Now let’s get back to this gorgeous courtyard, shall we? Yes indeed. To read all about their build, follow the link below to check out her blog post!

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower

05.12.14
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower via @thedesconf

By Special Reader Request, this fabulous DIY furniture plan for building your own storage accessory tower is a lovely budget friendly solution that is just perfect for keeping all of your odds and ends, your craft supplies, maybe your jewelry, or socks, bathing suits and the like. All I see is drawers galore and I go crazy for organization and orderly goodness! Do you crave this in your lives right now too? Xx… Rayan

Psst… If you like this DIY furniture plan you might also like some of our other easy to build and budget friendly plans for diy storage projects like the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Tallboy Dresser or the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Double Storage Case

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower via @thedesconf
  • 7 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×8 at 8’
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4’
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 3” trim at 8’
  • Scraps of 1x material at 24”
  • 4 – 2×2 at 42-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×4 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 17-7/8” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2”x 42-1/4” – Back
  • 9 – 1×2 at 20-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 2×4 at 20-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24-3/4” – Top
  • 2 – 3” trim at 14-1/2” – Lower Side Trim
  • 1 – 3” trim at 24-1/2” – Lower Front Trim
  • 9 – ¼” plywood at 12” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 14 – 1×2 at 10-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 14 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1×8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 10-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1×8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 19-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 11 – 1×3 at 20-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1x material (ripped to 7/8” wide) at 20-1/4” Drawer Fronts

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side stretchers, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side stretchers.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. Secure the stretchers to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the stretchers.

Secure the side assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretchers into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panels into the legs.

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each longer side. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×4 stretcher. Secure the 1×2 stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the 2×4 stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by ½” at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the trim. No dimension is given for the side pieces – it will depend on if it will be a flush cut or a miter cut. Secure the sides first, then cut and secure the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end f the drawer box side pieces. Assemble the drawer frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and secure them to each frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For the larger drawers fronts, start by shimming the lower piece in place with a 1/8” gap between the 1×3 piece and the stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the 7/8” piece above the 1×3 piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the remaining 1×3 piece above the 7/8” piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat for the other large drawer.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Rustic Ultimate Bar

05.07.14
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Rustic Ultimate Bar via @thedesconf

By special reader request, this amazing ultimate rustic bar is the perfect DIY furniture plan for the entertainer! Whether you prefer your parties indoors or outdoors, this project is the complete party package (alcohol not included of course). If you like this plan, you might also like our plans for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss and Main Inspired Foxton Bar and Game Table or the Jasper Serving and Bar Cart, and perhaps the Naldi Stemware Rack to finish off the party pack of projects! To see other Free DIY Furniture Plans like these, visit our Plan Index page and choose Entertaining from the menu! Xx… Rayan

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Rustic Ultimate Bar via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Rustic Ultimate Bar via @thedesconf
  • 1 – 1×2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 10 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 1×4 at 41-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 6 – 1×4 at 16” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 16” – Side Panels
  • 3 – 1×4 at 35-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1×4 at 41-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 35-1/2” – Front Panels
  • 2 – 1×4 at 37” – Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×4 at 37-3/4” – Back Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 1×3 at 26-3/4” – Cabinet Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 29-3/8” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 22-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1×2 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 1 – 1×2 at 22-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Countertop
  • 2 – 1×4 at 22-1/4” – Inner Top Spacers
  • 1 – 1×4 at 37” – Inner Top Spacer
  • 2 – 1×4 at 6-3/4” – Top Frame Back
  • 3 – 1×4 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame Spacers
  • 2 – 1×4 at 26-1/4” – Top Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 50-1/2” – Top Frame Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-3/4” x 50-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 20-1/2” Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1×4 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1×3 at 11-1/2” – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1×3 at 26-1/2” – Door Stiles
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Door Panel

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the legs, front frame, and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as one long edge of each leg. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Secure the entire front assembly to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back legs and frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the back frame to the side legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the bottom shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the under side.

Cut the piece for the cabinet divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom, front frame, and cabinet divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the divider (without pocket holes) will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet divider.

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position in each side of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and cabinet divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer slide spacer and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and the front leg as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the spacer will line up with the top of the drawer divider.

Cut the piece for the countertop and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs and panels into the countertop. The top face of the countertop will be flush with the top face of the back frame. Add a few 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the divider into the underside of the countertop.

Cut the pieces for the inner top frame and drill pocket holes at one end as well as one long edge. Secure to the front panel and countertop as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the inner frame sides and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides and countertop using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top frame back. Secure to the side frame and inner top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top frame spacers and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the front frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top frame sides and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top frame front. Position as shown then secure to the sides and spacers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails then assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panel in the frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

Showcase

Reader Showcase: Jazz the Mans DIY Outdoor Reef Sofa

05.06.14
Real Reader Build and Showcase for a DIY Outdoor Sofa Build

A few weeks ago I got a tweet from a reader who shared some amazing pictures of his modified Outdoor Reef Sofa build with me! I absolutely loved seeing the sheer happiness, with what looks like a side of relief that seems totally apparent on his girlfriend as she takes in the moment of the big reveal! This is what I live for my friends… I love to see the look on your children's faces when you make something special just for them, your wives when you surprise them with a handcrafted version of that designer thing you have been refusing to buy for them, your totally shocked but very proud hubbies when you knock it out of the park with a build from this site using their power tools, and now you want a full set of your own… it's sheer and utter happiness for me and I hope you keep them coming! We still have a few kinks to work out for our community pages, but in the next few days it will be up and running and a place for you to chat with all the rest of us as we journey down this DIY path together. It’s fun, exciting, totally screwy sometimes, wonderously frustrating and so completely satisfying. I hope you are patient with us here at TDC while we get all of this amazing functionality we have planned up and running smoothly and please definitely help us test it out by registering, commenting, and trying out the community pages by posting a discussion, or answering a quick poll I posted to see how things are working (and to get your opinions on some very important stuff of course, inquiring minds want to know!). It's been a thrilling and bumpy few months, but you guys make my world go round and I heart you and your amazing craftsmanship so very much! Xx… Rayan

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Modifications 

Made the sofa 10 feet long and adjusted the size to fit the cushions, which are from Target.

Lumber Used 

Yellow Pine

Finishing Technique 

Minwax Pickled Oak Stain

Building the Leg in a Real Reader Build and Showcase for a DIY Outdoor Sofa Build
Joining the legs with the Base for a Real Reader Build and Showcase for a DIY Outdoor Sofa Build
Adding the Slats for a Real Reader Build and Showcase for a DIY Outdoor Sofa Build
Alternate View of Real Reader Build and Showcase for a DIY Outdoor Sofa Build

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Kiko Buffet

05.05.14
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Kiko Buffet via @thedesconf

A fun DIY Furniture build for a stylish buffet or sideboard that can easily double as a media cabinet or console table depending on where you need it and how you style it! If you are in the market for a DIY furniture plans for an easy to build buffet or a budget friendly console table of a different style, be sure to check out our plan index, it is loaded to the brim with great stuff! Xx.. Rayan

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Kiko Buffet via @thedesconf
  • 1 – 1×2 at 2’
  • 2 – 1×6 at 6’
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to rip 2 – 2x4s in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2×2 at 18” – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 14” – Base Sides
  • 2 – 2×2 at 43” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 54” – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 2×2 at 11” – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43” – Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 70” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 17” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 68-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 23” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/8” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-5/8” – Doors

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Attach the sides and stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood shelf piece. Secure inside the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the frame.

Position the frame on the legs as shown. Secure in place using glue and 3” countersunk screws.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base as shown – the sides will overhang by 12” while the front and back will be flush. Secure to the base using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Treat the pieces as a left and a right – this way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawers and won’t have to be filled. Secure to the bottom and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer stretcher and drill pocket hole screws in each end. Secure to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back, sides, and dividers into the underside of the top.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

Home / Shopping

Adding a Pop of Color to a Desert Modern Inspired Nursery Space and A Giveaway

05.02.14
Pop of Color Details for a Desert Modern Nursery Toddler Room

This month we were challenged by Wayfair to add a pop of color to our homes, and I am just beginning to gather some of the pieces that will ultimately go into the Bird’s new space. What you see here is very rough, and very much the early stages and that is precisely what I am wanting to show you. I love a good reveal, but I think it’s important to step back and show you the process along the way occasionally as well. We had the big reveal for Blake’s Boho Bedroom Makeover, so for Penn’s room, maybe we should make it all about the ‘every step’… Hopefully you agree, and don’t decide to divorce me in the process?

I am slowly attempting to pull together every room in this house, which is a huge job. Right now, I’m focused on the nursery, which of course will be ready to transition into a toddler room in the near future. I can’t bear the thought of having missed the chance for Penn to have his own baby room, so I am walking a fine line between the two spaces and choosing items that will transition well when it’s time to pull that trigger. He is obsessed with woofs and gows which roughly translates to ruffs and meows, and yes he calls them by the sounds they make, which is a new one for me but totally adorable! Just love how literal kids are sometimes.

Naturally his new pop of color is this fabulous framed Night Eyes print, which brings a bit of that desert modern vibe to the space, and a cute teal-ish Kitty Figurine that has a mate that now lives in Blake’s room. My two little animal lovers… a thing I want to cultivate and nurture as much as possible. Yes, this seems utterly random for the time being, but I promise it won’t when it all comes together. Or at least, maybe it won’t be as random, and will only be a little bit random like all things in my life! Yahoo, we shall just call it eclectic and pretend it’s cool, yes?

Pop of Color Accessories from Wayfair

Precipice Lake Framed Print // Gideon Lamp by Arteriors Home // Birch Vases // Herringbone Throw // Kilim Pillow // Tie Dye Pillow

These are some of the other items I really (really) wanted to snatch up, and I still just might, but I have set some new rules for myself, one of which involves staying focused on whatever I’m working on until it’s completed, before moving on to the next thing… at least as much as possible in this line of biz (totally not possible at all). Since these gorgeous things wouldn’t be for Penn’s Nursery space, they didn’t quite make the cut this time around, and yes mama is still wishing they had, so I just might be doing a little consolation shopping as we speak? Maybe… Eek. I’m obviously terrible at following my own rules. Gah

So, if you are inspired to add a pop of color to your space right now, or care to do a bit of consolation shopping, hop right on down to the rafflecopter entry form and give it a click as soon as you leave a quick comment on this here blog post. All you need to do to enter is post a link to an item on wayfair.com and show me something fabulous you would love to get that would add a pop of color to your space (or a shot of neutral, ha)…

And, just in case you were really wanting to see another cute slash funny pic of the Bird in his ‘sit’, which I will spill all about shortly, here you go… you are welcome. He is a funny little duck. Technically he hasn’t quite figured out how to avoid falling through this chair, but he is sure willing to give it a go anyhow. Good thing it’s a mere inches from the ground.

If the rafflecopter box doesn’t appear right away, refresh your page or give it a second to load. Good luck!

(Comments with links require moderator approval and may take a bit to appear, especially if I’m sleeping or doing some other crazy thing, but not to worry, I will get them all approved without doubt!)

a Rafflecopter giveaway
 

IMPORTANT // No purchase necessary. By leaving a comment you agree to the rules of this sweepstakes. Each comment to this post equals one entry and must include a name and valid email address to be eligible. A comment must link to a product from Wayfair.com to be considered for this sweepstakes. One entry per household. Limited to entrants over 18 in the US and Canada, residents of Florida, New York, and Rhode Island are ineligible to enter. Contest begins as of the time of this post and ends on May 10, 2014 at Midnight PST. The winner will receive a Wayfair gift card/promo code, a retail value of $100 US. The number of eligible entries received will determine the odds of winning. All comments will be numbered in the order they are received and the winner will be chosen randomly by The Design Confidential using the Rafflecopter Random Entry Generator. Winner will be notified by email at the address given in their entry and must respond within 72 hours to receive their prize. If the winner does not respond within that time, a new winner will be chosen. The prize will be provided by Wayfair.com. The Design Confidential is not responsible for any problems with receipt of the prize. This contest is governed by the rules of Massachusetts, void where prohibited. This sweepstakes is sponsored by Wayfair LLC, 177 Huntington Ave., Boston, MA, 02115.

Disclosure // This post and giveaway are sponsored by Wayfair, but all opinions, ramblings, and adorable pictures of my bird slash meatball baby are 100% my own!

Shopping / Studio / Uncat

All About the Art // A Giveaway in Honor of Moms: TDC + Minted + Every Mother Counts

05.01.14

I realize that today is supposed to be all about the sources for Blake’s Boho Still Boyish Bedroom reveal, and it is… but it also isn’t. Feel free to browse the full article here, and sign up for your very own Bing Rewards account and get your search on. It’s kind of a no brainer, you know…

So for me, there are a few items that go into any space that truly complete the space and make it special. One of those things happens to be the art. I happen to obsess about art, it is just one of my things, so I put a big focus on the pieces that will ultimately go into a space and try to assemble a collection of both vintage and new, with a smattering of handmade thrown in there while I’m at it.

Back in January when I traveled out to SLC for ALT Summit and a fab event for Cricut (and where I happen to be right this minute, as a matter of fact, for my hands-on class at SNAP! Conference), I was able to hear the amazing gals who have joined forces with the eternally gorgeous Christy Turlington Burns and Every Mother Counts. These powerhouse women include the likes of Heather Armstrong of Dooce, Mariam Naficy of Minted, and Christiane Lemieux Of Dwell Studios and they are bringing some much needed focus to this important cause. We had the pleasure and the heartbreak of viewing her film about the unnecessary obstacles that plague the world surrounding pregnancy, and some of the challenges and intense fears mothers face in many (many) parts of the world. These are present day issues and I think it’s quite easy to lose sight of this with all of the technology that surrounds us on a daily basis.

Since having this eye-opening (and not so dry-eyed) experience at ALT with my sweet friend (no seriously, one of the sweetest people I know and an all time fave of mine), I have stayed in touch with the gals at Every Mother Counts and of course when an opportunity popped up to actually do something, I decided to jump on it and share it with all of you! I appreciate you guys so very much I can’t even put it to words adequately, and these women who need a voice and an advocate for their safety and health appreciate you taking an interest, of that I am sure.

Since one of the women involved in this group is also the founder of Minted, which happens to be one of the sources for a few of the art pieces you see above in Blake’s Boho still Boyish Bedroom, I thought it seemed like a natural fit to let you know that in honor of Mother’s day, 20% of every purchase made using the code DESIGNCONFEMC at checkout, will be donated to this cause. Given the fabulous prints they have, and the amazing prices, and the gorgeous frames, this is a great resource for unique art finds! Truly lovely.

Annnndddd, to make things a bit more exciting… I will be giving away a framed 11×14 print of your choosing! Woot Woot! Free art is perhaps a new favorite thing of mine. One day when I have some free art I will verify this, but I’m thinking it might be a glorious thing, so I am hoping you do too!

One of my favorite things about the prints Minted is that you can create groups of prints to see how they will look together and then of course when other users create these displays you can view them as you browse the art prints on their site. It is lovely when you are looking for a bit of inspiration and some ideas for creating a coordinating group of prints. I actually liked one I stumbled across so much that I ended up purchasing two of the prints that were shown. I fell in love with Deer Flirtation and Horses at Dusk immediately.

a Rafflecopter giveaway
 

Showcase

Reader Showcase: François DIY Furniture and Bathroom Vanity Inspired by the Kenwood Nightstand

04.30.14

You will find a few photos of a bathroom vanity which I recently made and for which I was inspired by the Plans for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kenwood Nightstand

Modifications

For this project, I was supplied a rough sketch of the type of vanity that the person wanted (old and rustic look), I immediately turned to The Design Confidential site and the I found that the look of the Kenwood Nightstand was close enough to be used. I used the pocket hole technique for the skeleton and the doors but I made a groove in the stiles and rails for the panels.

Lumber Used

I was supplied a pile of very…very old wood (probably spruce or pine) which was first utilized for the construction of a 200 years old house which was recently partly demolished (last photo!). This explains the nail holes, the marks, etc… That’s it.

Finishing Technique

The person who asked me to build it will apply the stain, the varnish and will install the sink.

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build Easy Outdoor Furniture with the Nova Coffee Table Project

04.28.14
DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Plans

It is almost that time of year where outdoor furniture becomes a priority around these parts, and an easy DIY furniture build is at the top of your project lists, so I’m going to make things easy on you… and finish posting a couple of plans we have to match our Outdoor Sofa Plans and Outdoor Chair Plans for the Nova Collection of easy kreg jig project plans. If you like these outdoor projects, you might also a few of these beauties like the extremely popular Provence Beam Outdoor Bench Plans and the matching and even more popular RH Inspired Provence Beam Outdoor Dining Table Plan with 4×4’s. Can’t wait to see what you do and which outdoor projects you choose this season! Xx… Rayan

Now that we have finished out the collection you can find the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table and round out your set!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Dimensions for Free DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
  • 10 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2×2 at 15-3/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1×3 at 26” – Side Slats
  • 12 – 1×2 at 26” – Side Slats
  • 4 – 1×3 at 47” – Front & Back Slats
  • 12 – 1×2 at 47” – Front & Back Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 47” – Top

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1 How to Build Side and Legs for Easy DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and side slats. Attach the slats to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The slats should be spaced with approximately ¼” between them.

Step 2 How to Build Front Back Slats for Easy DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front and back slats. Attach the slats to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The slat spacing should match that of the sides.

Step 3 How to Build Table Top for Easy DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the legs and upper slats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Henrendon Nightstand

04.21.14
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Henrendon Dresser via @thedesconf

A fabulous nightstand for storage and to set your lighting and a few display items and pretties. This piece sits at a moderate height and will accommodate those of you who don’t love a really high nightstand but don’t want a tiny little thing either. A nice substantial size and width with a good set of legs, if I do say so… Xx… Rayan

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$75-$100

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Henrendon Dresser via @thedesconf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2×2 at 21-1/4” – Legs
  • 8 – 1×2 at 22” – Side Frames, Back Frame, Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 22” – Side & Back Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 22” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 23-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/4” – Drawer Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/2” x 26” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×3 at 11-1/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 12” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 15-1/2” – Door

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back frame pieces and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Orient the pocket holes so the top stretcher faces up and the lower stretcher faces down. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden and not have to be filled. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet and secure to the lower stretcher, and lower back and side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges as shown. These will be hidden in the drawer bank and will not have to be filled. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. The front and side edges will overhang by ½”. Spread glue on the top of the upper stretchers, position the top, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the side and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Cut the piece for the door. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!