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The Vintage Vulture // My Arc de Triumphe + Latest Finds / Vintage Obsession

09.18.14
1970 Curved Arc Floor Lamp Tubular coffee Table Vintage Frame and Print Brass Planter and Gold Log Holder for The Vintage Vulture // My Latest Finds + My Vintage Obsession

Oh my dear friends… I wonder if you have any idea how insane I am about vintage pieces? I think not, because this site has not focused on such things in the past and leans more toward the DIY lifestyle. But… you guys have asked on more than one occasion if I will give you behind the scenes snapshots of what goes on here at the House of TDC (it is a level of crazy you may not be prepared for), and have suggested you want to know a bit more about how I get from point A to point B when it comes to styling and design. Ask and you shall receive, sweet peeps… If you are sure this is what you want. We shall see.

So a bit of background info quickly before I show you the amazing things I rounded up this last weekend. I am a complete nut for vintage pieces. Lighting, case-goods, tables, chairs – oh especially chairs and seating – and art, perhaps my most prolific collectible of all. I have a collection of vintage pieces you would not believe, and my vintage buying habit goes back 20 years (sadly not an exaggeration). I started buying vintage pieces when I was still a babe in the woods (is that how the saying goes? not sure) because it was the only economical option for this gal who had a need to decorate her space and money was a rare commodity for me. Flea Markets, thrift stores, antique fairs that was where it all began.

Side View of 1970 Curved Arc Floor Lamp Tubular coffee Table Vintage Frame and Print Brass Planter and Gold Log Holder for The Vintage Vulture // My Latest Finds + My Vintage Obsession

When I went away to design school, I came back armed with a crazy amount of information about the pieces themselves, the era they were made and the history of design as a whole. And then I was obsessed… the end.

But I have a fairly particular philosophy about buying and I wonder if might not be helpful to share? I think I might be dying to talk about it. So I am kind of hoping this is a topic you might be interested in and that you might like to get acquainted with vintage for vintage sake (you won’t find me rehabbing or reviving my pieces in turquoise chalk paint – sorry to disappoint some of you). I want to keep this fun and light, but help you have the confidence to know what to buy and what to pay for it, if you don’t already. Or maybe swap tips on great places to source pieces, I would love to know where you shop! Then we can all go to rehab together at vintage shoppers anonymous (VSA).

But back to the actual task at hand, how amazing is this arc floor lamp. It is my veritable Arc de Triumphe if you must know. I have coveted this exact lamp for quite a while and it is so good! The condition is pristine, just a show stopper and it was a steal compared to what I have seen them listed for in the past. This beauty was $195 asking, but I worked some magic on the seller by purchasing the table as well so I ended up getting it for closer to $160. Might be one of my more expensive purchases as far as vintage furnishings and home decor are concerned but absolutely worth it. The tubular table is the other apple of my eye right now and it was around $100. It is large and in charge and virtually indestructible – which is crucial in this house filled with crazed boys and babes. Honestly my gorgeous Hawaiian gal there is a decent contender for favorite too. I bought her for the frame at around $4, and then she grew on me and now I think I love her. Weird how that happens. The cute brass planter is lightweight and fabulous and I love being able to move it around as I need to. Plus it is shiny and shiny is awesome. The log holder there with the handle, that has become the mobile magazine storage here at the House of TDC because quite frankly I have a crap ton of mags come through this house and they need a place to live! Clutter makes me crazy people so it puts me at ease knowing that everything has a place to live – a forever home if you will.

What have you guys been coveting lately? Where do you look for your vintage obsessions and have you scored anything ridiculously amazing recently? Do tell… Inquiring minds want to know. Let us swap stories, no?

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DIY / Studio

DIY Macrame Badminton Net // Easy Macrame Knots

09.17.14
DIY Macrame Badminton Net // Easy Macrame Knots

A few of you might remember when I shared my Outdoor Oasis and Outdoor Games Project back in July. I thought I would share a bit more about the Making of the DIY Macrame Badminton Net – that was surprisingly easy to make – and instructions and images for how to tie each of the macrame knots I used in the project!. This is not our first rodeo, when it comes to macrame (see our DIY macrame hanging planter project), so it might be obvious at this point that we like a bit of the fringe over here at the House of TDC.

This also happens to be one of the very first projects for the site that I worked on with Beth, my fab Gal Friday (you will be getting to know her a bit more now that we can come up for air from all of the projects going on), so let us just say she got a dose of the crazy that happens around here, right off the bat! Trial by Fire, eh?

The full step by step for the DIY Macrame Badminton Net can also be found over on the Home Depot blog with detailed pictures and instructions for making your own masterpiece!

MATERIALS //

  • 2 – 1 inch copper pipe at 5 feet in length.
  • 1 – 1 inch copper pipe at 8 feet in length.
  • 2 – 90 degree elbow pieces with 1 inch openings on either end.
  • 4 – 200 foot bundles of clothesline or 800 feet of rope or paracord.

STEP 1 // Cut your rope into 100 inch strands and fold each of them in half. You will secure the looped end to your long copper pipe using the larks head knot. You can see the steps for this in the image below.

You will secure all of your rope lengths to your 8 foot pipe, except for 2 or 3 of them. Leave yourself a couple of these lengths of cord for use later when we tie off the ends of our project with a wrap knot.

How to Tie a Larks Head Knot for Free Macrame Pattern and Project

The Lark’s Head Knot is probably your most common tie-on knot. It is not precisely a knot, but still, it happens to be a great way to get your cord onto your pipe, rod, dowel, or ring.

// The steps above are fairly straightforward and this baby involves nothing more than doubling up your rope by folding it in half, then folding that loop in your mid-section over your rod or ring by bringing it up from behind.

// Once you fold it over you simply pull the loose ends up and through your loop. Easy Peasy, no?

STEP 2 // Once all of your rope is secured with your larks head knots, you will pair them off in sets of two.

Using the image and steps below, tie three left half-square knots using the four strands created by grouping your rope into pairs. When you make a chain of half square-knots all in the same direction, your rope will start to form a twist. Don’t worry this is what you want, it looks amazing!

For those of you who like to work with your hands in some way, macrame is simply divine. Just so completely gratifying if you know what I mean. Plus you can pull up a folding table in front of the tv and watch The Knick or one of the meellions of Housewives franchises while you loop and tie your way to perfection!

How to Tie a Left Facing Half Square Knot

The square knot is another knot you will run across often throughout your macrame journey. You might need to tie a series of alternating square knots or even a half square knot, but it is very likely you will do something involving this fabulous basic at some point. Since a square knot is actually made up of two halves (duh, right?), the image above shows you how to tie one of these possible halves or a left facing half square knot. To tie a right facing, you will simply do the opposite of these steps and work from the right outside cord, or cord 4, and tie the knot as you see in the next step. And since a half square knot is the first portion of a whole square knot, which I cover down below, you will need to complete these steps here before moving on to the next steps below.

While the image above is fairly easy to follow, I will just skim over a few quick verbal instructions to help you understand what you are seeing.

// You will need to separate out your lark’s head knots into groups of two so that each group has 4 cords for you to work with.

// With one group of 4 cords, you will take the left outside cord – cord 1 and the black cord you see above – and bring it over the two cords in the center – cords 2 and 3 (white and yellow) – then under the cord on the right outside – cord 4 (beige).

// Then bring the right outside cord – beige cord 4 – under the two center cords – cords 2 and 3 (white and yellow) – and up behind and under the curved edge of your first cord or cord 1 (black) – like you see in step 3 above. Once you bring it up behind like this, you will pull it up through your opening (made by cord 1) and out to the side. This will look like a pretzel and will be a bit like the first part of tying your shoe laces. When you pull this tight a bit, it should look like the last image.

Now you can repeat this step with the same grouping of cords two more times to get that twisty bit you see at the top of the image above.

How to Tie a Right Half Square Knot and a Square Knot

STEP 3 // Now leave an inch and a half of your rope straight, then begin tying alternating square knots. You will tie five rows of these.

A square knot is similar to our half knot in the previous step, in that it begins in precisely the same way.  Begin by tying a single left half square knot, making sure to leave that inch and a half space. Once you tie a left half square knot just as you did in the last step, you will then follow it up with a right half square knot, as shown in the image above (mirrors the left half square – in reverse), and you will have completed one whole square knot.

When continuing on from a left half square knot, simply work with the same 4 cords from their new positions (black cord 4 is now on the right and beige cord 1 is now on the left).

// With your group of 4 cords, you will take the right outside cord – cord 4 and the black cord you see above – and bring it over the two cords in the center – cords 2 and 3 (white and yellow) – then under the cord on the left outside – cord 1 (beige).

// Then bring the left outside cord – beige cord 1 – under the two center cords – cords 2 and 3 (white and yellow) – and up behind and under the curved edge of your right hand cord or cord 4 (black) – like you see in step 3 above. Once you bring it up behind like this, you will pull it up through your opening (made by cord 4) and out to the side (on the right). This will look like a pretzel and will be a bit like the first part of tying your shoe laces. When you pull this tight a bit, it should look like the last image above if you are completing a square knot! Et Voila! Square knot created…

Do this for every group of cords all the way across your pipe. You will then have 1 square knot tied in each group of cords. Down below I will show you how to alternate them for your five rows of alternating square knots!

How to Tie Alternating Square Knots in Free Macrame Pattern DIY Project

Alternating Square Knots are a great way to create a net like pattern. The image for this shows the process from the beginning, but for the specific steps for tying a square knot, refer to the previous two steps. This image will give you an overview of how to alternate and create the pattern you see above.

STEP 4 // With one whole row of square knots under our belt, we will begin on the second row (working toward 5 rows total). For row 2, you will skip the first 2 cords by pulling them off to the side. Then you will regroup your cords into new groups of 4 from there, going forward. Basically you will pair your 3rd and 4th cords together with your 5th and 6th cords (cords 7-10 will be your next group of 4) and you will tie a whole square knot (left half and right half square knot) with the new groups, all the way across your pipe until you run out of groups of 4.

// For your third row you will go back to the groups as they were in your first row and include those first 2 cords once again! Continue on in this manner for 5 rows, alternating your groups and leaving out the first 2 cords for every other even numbered row.

STEP 5 // You will now create a short sennit chain, but before we do this you will want to flip flop your cords in each group, to help alleviate the short cord syndrome, caused by tying square knots. To do this you will simply bring each of the outside cords in each group of 4, over the top of the middle cords, making them into the new middle cords for your groups going forward. You can see the outside cords highlighted in yellow below and the inside cords in gray, as we begin knotting for this step (shown completed in the image below).

With our newly swapped cords, we are going to create a short sennit (chain) by tying two square knots. Refer to the steps above for tying a square knot. For this, instead of alternating your groups after the first square knot, simply tie another square knot right after the first using the same four cords.

The Design Confidential DIY Macrame Badminton Net

STEP 6 // Once you have tied your 2 square knots, you will continue with alternating square knots once again. This time you will begin on the alternating row (row 2) or as if your second square knot from the previous step is actually the knot from your first row. You will create two rows of alternating square knots this time. You can see this in the image below, just after the sennit chain and above the bottom wrap knot.

The Design Confidential DIY Macrame Badminton Net

STEP 7 // You will finish your project by tying a wrap knot at the end of each group.

This is where those extra cords come into play. You will want to use them to form the separate pieces that will wrap each group.

The Design Confidential How to Tie a Wrap Knot or Gathering Knot for Macrame Pattern Project

The Wrap Knot or Gathering Knot is used to group your cords when you finish off a pattern and occasionally at the beginning or in the middle of a pattern like you see in my Macrame Hanging Planter. This was the trickiest knot for me somehow since the instructions I was working from left out a critical section, so I will try not to leave you hanging like that!

To work this knot you will grab one of your extra lengths you set aside earlier. This piece can’t be connected to anything else like the separate cord you see in the first image step above (the white cord running underneath my group). This is your Working Cord.

// Run your Working Cord under and alongside your group.

// Create a slight loop by bringing your Working Cord around, down, then up and over your group.

// Bring it down and back behind your group, making sure to leave your loop in place from the previous step as well as your loose end as you see in the image above (image steps 3 through 7).

// Bring your Working Cord (now hanging down) back up in front of your group and over the top again, then around behind and down. Continue wrapping like this until your wrap is the size you want for your particular project. You will need to wrap at least 4 or 5 times, but shouldn’t need many more.

// Take the end of your Working Cord and thread it through your loop.

// Pull your loose end from the beginning of this knot in image steps 1 and 2 and pull it tight until your loop is pulled up into your wrap and is hidden. Now you can cut off any excess or tuck it away and into your wrap as well and secure with glue if you like.

The Design Confidential DIY Macrame Badminton Net

You can now leave your ends a bit frayed like I did, or dip them in melted wax to keep them tight.

The easiest way to get your net put up is to put the pieces together laying flat on the ground. This will tell you the exact distance you need to place your legs so it doesn’t bow or splay. Then remove your 5-foot leg pieces and using a rubber mallet, gently pound them into the ground for several inches, making sure you don’t warp the top rim of your pipe. Then simply attach the elbow pieces to them and you are set for a fun filled afternoon of outdoor games.

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Design / DIY / Home

Styling Secret // Easy + Inexpensive DIY Over-Sized Art

09.16.14
The Design Confidentials Styling Secret // Easy + Inexpensive DIY Over-Sized Art

I frequently find myself in an art quandry when I am styling a space or decorating a room in my home. I happen to like (actually love) big huge pieces of art so much more than I like several smaller pieces. For those of you who might have searched for affordable art options, you know how hard it is to find great original things in large sizes. There are meellions of gorgeous, nay amazing, works by fantastic artists out there for affordable prices, but my gawd every time I stumble upon one of these beauties it turns out to be no larger than a 5×7 or 8×10 print at the very most! Gah. What gives, I say?

So while I prep and finish wrapping up a meellion projects coming down the line (including a room makeover!) I thought I would share my styling secret for amazing art, in large sizes, at dirt cheap prices, and with super duper fast turn around time (crucial for the type of projects I typically work on!).

Ps. This is NOT a sponsored post. This is simply a real deal tip / trick I use when I am in need of something fabulous and fast for an art fix.

Tulum Art Print and Sand and Sea Beach Image for Styling Secret // Easy + Inexpensive DIY Over-Sized Art Solution

Here are the deets //

  • // I find my images on sites like Shutterstock (there are many, this just happens to be the one I use). I essentially signed myself up for a revolving account there, that renews whenever I reach 5 downloads and I pay a slightly discounted rate of $49 for all 5 downloads combined. Each image ends up being around $9-$10 for the large size, which works perfectly for high quality prints in the size I generally need.
  • // Once I download the image, I alter the size, crop things out, adjust color, or altogether make the image my own, in photoshop. I tend to work with a 20″ x 30″ size most often since this is the largest most economical size for me when it comes to both the frame and the printing.
  • // I send my images over to Sam’s Club (again there are many other sites that offer this, I just happen to use this one) and upload them to their photo printing department and set to print in a 20″ x 30″ poster size for $8. This size works beautifully with the 24″x30″ IKEA Ribba frame which is in the neighborhood of $20-$25, I think. Many printing sites will print poster sizes for dirt cheap and at least at Sam’s Club (my only experience with this), the print quality is pretty amazing and printed on extra large photo paper (not thin poster paper). You can also print an Engineering Print in an even larger size for around three dollars, but these are generally best for black and white types of images that will benefit from a retro copier kind of look. They have my prints ready in an hour and that makes me ridiculously happy when I am working on a tight schedule (so always).
Pink Blue Peach Macro Agate and Cool White Neutral Adriatic Sea Images for Styling Secret // Easy + Inexpensive DIY Over-Sized Art Solution

Prints in Order of Appearance //

There are soooo many amazing images and I have meellions saved to lightboxes for easy pulling when I need them. So basically I have Shutterstock and Sam’s Club on speed dial and I call them at least every other week, sometimes more! Eek.

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired Drexel Desk

09.12.14
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too!

We have quite a few other free desk plans for your woodworking enjoyment, but in particular I’m currently crushing on the stacked wood timber slat desk, the campaign desk, and the bromley secretaire desk!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

 

$75-$100
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf
  • 2 – 2×3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1/2” dowel at 2’
  • 4 – 2×3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
  • 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
  • 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 1×2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
  • 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.

Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.

Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.

Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Drexel Desk via @thedesconf

Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

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Showcase

Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand

09.11.14
Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand

I found plans online to build the A Frame Plant stand from The Design Confidential. I showed Hasani my ideas and he was on board! On Friday night we stopped in Lowes and picked our supplies.

Finished Plant Stand for Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand

Built From These Plans 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build an A-Frame Plant Stand

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
DIY A Frame Plant Stand

Lumber Used 

We decided to use Select Pine for the project which was a lot nicer and a little more than using the regular pine.

Finishing Technique 

For this project I used the new stains from Rustoleum in Weathered Grey.

Top Rung Close Up for Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand

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Design / Home / Shopping / Studio

Dream Home // Home Tech + Creature Comforts that Make Life Better

09.08.14
Poolside Oasis with Outdoor Hammock for Dream Home // Home Tech + Creature Comforts that Make Life Better

This post is brought to you by Dyson… makers of a thing that makes my ‘functionality obsessed’ heart sing with joy.

Today we are going to do something a bit different here at the house of TDC, and we are going chat about our hopes and dreams – kind of. But more importantly we are going to give you amazing folks the chance to win a Dyson DC59 Motorhead vacuum!

Dyson DC59 Motorhead Giveaway from The Design Confidential and Dream Home Tech Creature Comforts to make your Life Easier

What do you think? Crazy good, right? So keep on reading friends… deets for the giveaway are at the bottom!

My Dream Space… Where everything is beautiful, utterly functional, and so full of amazing features and conveniences that leaving is never quite as welcome as staying. In a perfect world, every single item in my home would clean itself and have a place where it can be put away when not in use. Maybe the items I have would make life easier somehow or help me make decisions about what to have prepare in the way of meals that is both healthy and made from things we already have. There would be no waste that is not necessary and anything left over from consumption would automatically be put to use somewhere else without having to think twice about it.

Dream Home // 10 Home Tech + Creature Comforts that Make Life Better 1 - 5

1 a / b / c / d // 2 a / b // 3 // 4 a / b // 5

I am sharing a roundup of 10 items I think would make life better / easier / more beautiful and would perhaps save me money / time / frustration from the inevitable stuff.

There are certain unavoidable things in life, so making those things bearable by making them pretty or uber-functional is a great way to give them less of a negative impact on me.

But, Let us be real for a minute… I despise cleaning of any variety. Organizing on the other hand, now that is my jam. But keeping things hygienic and clean? Ugh, not so much. But, in a life with kids and dogs, cleaning up messes and disasters around the house is an everyday thing and a necessary evil of the most violent variety. Well maybe not violent, that might be a slight exaggeration, but certainly an attack on my personal well-being, which is basically the same thing, right?

Having a cordless, super powerful, handheld vacuum that can be quickly adjusted for length and purpose, and then hung back up on the wall out of sight to recharge and store? Well that my friends almost makes the task of cleaning up debris and collateral damage just a bit more tolerable. Thank you to the fine folks at Dyson for creating the Dyson DC59 Motorhead – I think I love you! I’m sure it’s mutual right? And not creepy in any way? Just say yes. I’m a mom of two boys with dogs (who are boys) and a husband and I’m entirely outnumbered over here in the ways of cleanliness and harmony. I could use a little love sent my way!

Urban Oasis on Waterfront with Glass Walls for Dream Home // Home Tech + Creature Comforts

One thing my Dream Space would have, that is missing from my life right this minute – is water. I am a water baby at heart and everything good in this world of mine, at least in my imagination, happens near the water. And of course where there is a beach, there is mad sand, and where there is sand… there is a crazed lunatic mom with a vacuum in hand. Might as well make this less of a thing, am I right? Who wants to be the crazy person running around wildly and shouting at her kids? Not I… that is for sure.

Dream Home // 10 Must Have Home Tech Items+ Creature Comforts 6 - 10

6 // 7 // 8 // 9 // 10

But first, before I cry myself to sleep over all of these things that I do not have, let me go soak in my large bathtub and watch a little Bravo reality tv on my amazing vanity mirror tv – it is built right into the mirror for goodness’ sake (or perhaps it is the mirror?), while I tune out the sound of crashing and breaking going on in the other room (sob).

WANT TO WIN A DYSON DC59 MOTORHEAD? OH YOU DO? YAAA, YOU DO… HIGH FIVES!

SO HERE’S THE SKINNY ON HOW TO ENTER:

Dyson DC59 Motorhead Giveaway from The Design Confidential and Dream Home Tech Creature Comforts to make your Life Easier

1. Simply click here or on the image above, to visit the Dyson DC59 Motorhead page and check out the deets. No signups or anything – just check out the details and come back here and move on to the next step!

2. Then, come back here and leave a comment on this post telling me A). what defines your dream space and B). which feature you love most about this cordless connoisseur – the Dyson DC59 Motorhead! 

The winner will be selected randomly from the comments on September 24th and will be contacted directly via email. Please make sure you use your regular everyday email. The winner will have 5 days to respond with a mailing address in order to claim their prize! 

Images via: here and here

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DIY

DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light Fixture

09.04.14
I Can Make This! DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light from The Design Confidential via @thedesconf

I am so happy to share this gorgeous diy moravian pendant light fixture project with you fine folks today! It hails from one of our new contributers, Cindy from Carole + Ellie, and I think it will give you a fabulous idea of what we are in store for, with her as on board as one of our newest team members here at TDC. I hope you guys will give her a very warm welcome and be sure to check out her site and all of her amazing projects over there! It’s creative folks like her that really make our world go round, don’t you think? Xx… Rayan

I am so excited to share my first DIY on TDC! This is a project I have been dreaming about for a while now and it turned out so amazing. I’ve been seeing this fixture pop up in some really glamorous entry ways (here and here) and I’m so happy mine is now all glammed up too!

This Moravian star is a rhombicuboctahedron augmented with points. The construction is done using a similar technique to the Himmeli Orb that Rayan shared in December. Since this will be a light fixture, I chose less flammable, heavier duty materials and my favorite: copper! The finished star is about 1 foot in diameter.

MATERIALS //
  • // spool of 30 gauge floral wire + wire cutters or old scissors
  • // ruler
  • // pencil (ignore the sharpie pictured, use a pencil, the marks will be easier to remove)
  • // mini tubing cutter
  • // 31 feet 1 inch of 1/8” round copper tube (I ordered 11 packs of which come 3 to a pack in aprox. 12” lengths)
  • // lighting kit + bulb

TO MAKE //

 

1. Mark and cut the copper tubing to (68) 3 1/2” long sections, (52) 2 1/2” short sections, and (4) 1 1/4” extra small sections using the mini tubing cutter (take a look at this video for instructions on cutting pipe)

I Can Make This! DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light from The Design Confidential via @thedesconf

2. Cut 2 arms lengths of the wire. I found that any more of the wire gets to be too much to handle easily. Thread on 4 short sections of the tubing onto the wire to make a square, twist the the wire ends together a couple times keeping the square tight. Thread on 2 long sections and attach kitty-corner with a twist. It is important to keep the work tight but don’t go crazy on the twists because it will add weight and a mess when you have to pull a wire back through a section. I found 1 or 2 twists was optimal. Thread the wire back through the adjacent short section. Thread 1 long section and secure with 1 twist at the top of the point. Add a second long section and secure with a twist at the final corner. Now you have your first pyramid!

I Can Make This! DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light from The Design Confidential via @thedesconf

3. Now make a row of 7 pyramids. Thread on 3 short sections and twist onto the opposite corner of the first pyramid making a second square. Add the 4 long sections as before threading the wire so you end with it ready to make a new square in the row. Do this 7 times. When you run out of wire just attach another 2 arms length piece by twisting the ends together. I used a twist like the end of a candy rapper, then folded the twist down to meet the wire. I found that method gave me the strongest connections.
Some times a connection point will have multiple wires running into the sections. When I came to these sections with my wire end I tightened everything with a twist or two to make sure things stayed tight.

I Can Make This! DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light from The Design Confidential via @thedesconf

4. For the 8th pyramid thread a short section, wrap your row into a circle and thread the wire through the short section of your first pyramid. Add a second short to complete the square. Then make a pyramid as before.

I Can Make This! DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light from The Design Confidential via @thedesconf

5. Now complete the first side. Make a square using 3 short sections and attaching to the first pyramid for the fourth side. Make a pyramid as before with the wire coming out one of the top corners. Add 1 short section and attach it to the second pyramid in the ring to form a triangle. Thread the wire through the next short section of the third pyramid on the ring, add another 2 short sections and make a square base with a twist on the top of the triangle. Make a pyramid as before. Repeat this method to make four pyramids with four triangles and a square base at the top.

I Can Make This! DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light from The Design Confidential via @thedesconf

6. Make the center pyramid from the formed square. Then tie off the wire, tucking the end into the adjacent section. Flip over the star, twist on a new piece of wire, and repeat step 5 with the 4 small triangles and the 4 pyramids directly across from each other. The whole star will be a bit wobbly at this point but just keep going, tying everything up tightly. Things will get a whole lot more structured when the piece is finished.

I Can Make This! DIY Copper Moravian Star Pendant Light from The Design Confidential via @thedesconf

7. Add the last point of the star by stringing 1 short section (where you would usually put 1 long). Then string on the 4 extra small sections. Add your lighting kit at this point with the bulb (so you don’t have to cut it open when you are done like I had to!). I recommend using an LED or CFL bulb housed in a frosted dome so you don’t have to open your star to change a bulb for a while. Tie the 4 extra small sections to form a square around the lighting cord and secured to the short section. Thread the wire through an extra short section. Add a small section, run the wire through the small section of the bottom square to go up the next side of this copped pyramid. Continue adding sides till the top chopped point is complete. I re-ran my wire back through the whole top pyramid and base a second time making sure everything was tight and sturdy.

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Showcase

Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

09.03.14
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

I needed something to fill this empty space in my kitchen and the Clara Buffet was perfect! For this project, I chose to use oak, a red stain with brown and black accents, and brushed nickel hardware.

As always, thank you to TDC for the great plans and thanks for reading! Also, check out my blog post (link below) for a lot more build pictures and thoughts on each building step!

Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Assembly with shelves and drawer frames added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Gusset added to top inside edge of side panels to screw down the top from the beneath for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

Here are images of the piece mostly assembled without the doors or drawers. As you can see, everything has already been finished to avoid tight corners. Drilling the space for the door hinges…this was nerve racking! As you can see I taped around the area to avoid any damage to the rest of the finish. This plus the flange on the hinge hid any defects. You can see the gusset I added to the top inside edge of the side panels (see modifications section). This is what I secured the top with on the edges and it worked great.

Built From These Plans 
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Clara Buffet

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
PB Inspired Clara Buffet

Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right over $200. Hardware, drawer slides, hinges, and staining materials were probably another $150 bringing the total to $350. Still a steep discount to the original!

Length of Time 

This is hard to estimate, but I'd say 20+ hours because of all the finishing work. Actual cutting and assembly of the piece was MUCH short and could probably be done in a weekend.

Modifications 

I made a few modifications to the plans for multiple reasons:

Shelves:

First, I eliminated the top set of shelves since they really only serve to enclose the space where the drawers go. Instead I used 1×2's to mimic the front edge of where the top shelves would have been. This provided rigidity to the piece and kept the look the same.

Second, I had to slice off 3/4″ from the indicated depth for the main shelves in the plans. Reason being, the plans call for the shelves to be set back this distance so that the doors can close but all four shelf pieces are dimensioned for the entire depth of the cabinet on the cut sheet.

Legs:

The plans call for 4×4's on the legs but I chose to try and recreate the original legs as closely as possible utilizing hardwood. This was for asthetics only and the original plans could be used with no issues here.

Top Connection:

I realized during assembly that I had not predrilled vertical pocket holes in the side panels to attach the top. Fortunately I had two 3/4″ wide pieces of stained/finished plywood that I had sliced off the back of the shevles. I used these as gussets on the top inside edge of the side panels to secure the top from beneath which worked great.

Lumber Used 

As mentioned before, I used oak for almost every piece in the project besides the back for which I used birch plywood, the drawer boxes which are pine, and a couple of non-visible cross braces which are also pine.

Oak is a different animal working with but I really enjoyed the results. Make sure your cordless drills have good batteries! This stuff will eat up a battery real quick!

Finishing Technique 

The finish here was not difficult, but takes time. It consisted of red gel stain, brown glaze, black glaze, and final lacquer with sanding sealer sprayed on between each step. All stains and glazes were brushed on and wiped off.

I chose to prefinish all the individual pieces before assembly to avoid difficulties with tight corners. This had advantages and disadvantages; The former being that we achieved a very uniform and professional finish on the entire piece. Disadvantages to this technique include difficulties surrounding utilization of pocket hole plugs (see my blog), needing a very large space in order to stage all the pieces while drying, and needing to be careful during assembly.

Gel Stain Added - Kind of red right now!..Glaze to the rescue for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Weighing down the back with all the panels to get the bend out of the plywood! for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Phew that's better; Brown and Black Glazes Added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Drawers and drawer slides added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece with all hardware added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece in new space for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

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Plans

Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects

08.29.14
Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects

We survived the first week and a half of First Grade! I mentioned in my Back to School Blues + Red Hot School Supplies Roundup that Blakey was nervous about starting school and being away for the entire day, every single day. He is always fine after the first 10 minutes, but his anticipation and anxiety was fairly extreme this year. I'm sure those of you who have school aged kiddos know precisely what I mean. When they are nervous, you are nervous for them, it's impossible not to be! And to make matters worse, parents have to put on a brave face so we don't make things any harder than they need to be. Anyone who knows me in real life probably knows I have a pretty difficult time trying to hide my feelings, so this was the pitts!

I'm thankful I have several more years before we make another entirely new transition with him (middle school – eek!), so things should be calm waters, at least for a bit. Of course with a new schedule and a new year just barely underway, I'm still looking for ways to make this new stage a bit easier on all of us and of course a bit more fun for him. One of the things on my list is to build a few new pieces of furniture to suit his brand new responsibilities as a kid who now has homework and actually needs real school supplies, aside from a backpack. This is pretty big stuff for us (and by us I mean me) but so far I think I am liking this all day school thing. All my girlfriends said this would happen, but you really have to experience it to understand it I guess. Who knew…

If you have kids of your own and you would like to make this year a more exciting adventure for them, consider a fancy schmancy new DIY Desk Project that makes doing homework and organizing just a little bit more fun and feasible.

1 // Pocket Desk Chair 2 // Madeline Desk + Hutch 3 // Compartment Department Table 4 // Oak Park Elementary Desk + Oak Park Hutch 5 // Storage Cubby Desk

Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects 6 - 10

From cool storage compartments to paper holders, these desks offer something special for every type of kiddo and circumstance. If you need a desk that does double duty as storage or play, then we have you covered. If you need to fit big functionality in a not so big space, maybe a pull out writing surface is just the thing…

6 // Finn Desk 7 // Rowley Desk 8 // Blake Desk + Hutch 9 // Little Sloane Leaning Desk 10 // Carolina Craft Table

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Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge

08.25.14
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Oh this piece of DIY Furniture might be one of my absolute faves! So utterly versatile and just the coolest… lay it flat to enjoy on your front side or snooze and when you feel like it, simply put it in one of several incline positions to lounge and chat! Isn’t that amazing? Check out the images at the bottom to see how this gal moves and functions! Xx… Rayan

Of course if you prefer a more tradition lounging option our Free DIY Plans to Build a Chesapeake Single Chaise Lounge is a fabulous alternative and let’s not forget the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chesapeake Double Chaise Lounger for those of you who prefer to snuggle up with another person while you bake or lounge in the sun!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$75-$100
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf
  • 5 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1×3 at 8’

 

  • 2 – 1×4 at 75”– Main Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 29-1/2”– Main Frame Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 1×3 at 31” – Main Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1×4 at 19”– Middle Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 26”– Middle Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1×4 at 2-1/2”– Middle Frame Spacers
  • 4 – 1×3 at 27-1/2”– Middle Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1×4 at 30-1/4”– Upper Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 27-1/2”– Upper Frame Top
  • 5 – 1×3 at 29” – Upper Frame Slats

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Cut out the two Main Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole 29” from one end of the Side and 1-3/4” from the top. Please note that all hole measurements will be TO the center of the hole. Drill another 1/2” hole 3” from the other end of the Side. Drill a series of 4 more holes in the same manner as shown, 3” on center and 1-3/4” from the top. You can drill more than 5 holes if you wish – this will give you even more adjustment opportunities! You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. If you feel confident, clamp the Main Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Cut out the Main Frame Top and Bottom and attach to the Main Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Cut out the Main Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Next, cut out the Middle Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from each end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Middle Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Cut and attach the Middle Frame Top and Bottom to the Middle Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Next, cut the Middle Frame Spacers. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from the end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Spacer. Or you can clamp the Spacers together and drill both holes at once through the pieces. Align Spacers with the Sides so that the drilled holes match up and the edges are flush. Attach Spacers to the Middle Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Cut out the Middle Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

On to the last portion of the Futon! Cut the pieces for the Upper Frame Sides. Drill two 1/2” holes – one positioned 1-3/4” from one end, and the other 1-1/4” from the other end, both 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Sides together and drill both holes at once through both pieces.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Next, cut the Upper Frame Top and secure to the Upper Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Cut out the Upper Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

This is where the piece really starts to take shape! Lay out the Main Frame on a flat surface. Place the Middle Frame and Upper Frame within the Main Frame as shown. Attach the Upper Frame to the Middle Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Attach the Middle Frame to the Main Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 3” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Use the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips to secure the Upper Frame to the Main Frame in the desired adjustment holes. Add a cushion for extra comfort! After finishing, you might find it helpful to apply a coat of paste wax to the areas of the Futon that pivot and rub against each other. Large washers may also be used for extra reinforcement at the end of the clevis pins. Lastly, use a sander on edges if you want a more rounded, softer appearance.


 You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge via @TheDesConf

Check out how versatile this piece is! It can lay flat or incline to several positions. We’ve included a few more graphics for you to see this Futon in motion.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

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