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Plans
The Holidays are quickly approaching and making something special for your little ones is a fabulous way to celebrate! A playhouse that you are excited to add to your home is perfect for all of you style conscious parents out there! I will be posting plans as part of our ongoing Handmade Holiday series, between now and then, and of course we have many plans from the previous years for you to choose from as well. I will be retagging all of our plans that didn’t get updated in the move, so check back often to see which project you might like to tackle for your children this year!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 11 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1/2” plywood at – 4’x8’
- 1 – 1/4” plywood at – 2’x2’
- 2 – 2×2 at 54” – Front Side Posts
- 4 – 2×2 at 41-3/4” – Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate
- 2 – 2×2 at 46-1/4” – Back Side Posts
- 4 – 2×2 at 41-3/4” – Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate
- 3 – 2×2 at 41-3/4” – Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate
- 1 – 2×2 at 41-3/4” – Left Side Top Plate
- 2 – 2×2 at 20” – Left Side Center Rail and Left Side Bottom Plate
- 1 – 2×2 at 40-1/2” – Left Side Door Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 18-3/4” – Back Side Center Posts
- 2 – 2×2 at 18-3/4” – Right Side Center Posts
- 1 – 2×2 at 18-3/4” – Front Center Post
- 2 – 2×2 at 48” – Side Roof Supports
- 2 – 2×2 at 19-3/4” –Door Frame Top and Bottom
- 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Door Frame Sides
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-1/2”x16-3/4” – Door Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Mail Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Bottom Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Top Left Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Bottom Left Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Back Side Top Right Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x2-1/2” – Back Side Top Roof Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Right Side Bottom Left Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Right Side Bottom Right Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x10-1/4” – Front Top Roof Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Front Bottom Left Panel
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Front Bottom Right Panel
- 1 – 1/4” plywood at 18-1/2”x20” – Front Sliding Panel
- 4 – 1×2 at 41-3/4”– Sliding Panel Guides
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 51-1/2”x50-3/4” – Top (use scraps from the 4×8 plywood sheets to create the top) OR get creative and use corrugated panels, strung twinkle lights, etc!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Front Side Posts, Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Front Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the pieces and mark it. Cut the angle as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Front Side Posts when assembled.
Cut the pieces for the Back Side Posts, Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Back Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the piece and mark it. Cut the angle as shown. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Back Side Posts.
Cut the piece for the Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach as shown to both the Front Side and the Back Side with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Left Side Top Plate, Left Side Center Rail, Left Side Bottom Plate, and Left Side Door Frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Attach as shown to both the Front Frame and the Back Frame with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Back Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Right Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Front Center Post. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Post and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.
Cut the rough pieces for the Side Roof Supports, approximately 48” in length. Clamp the pieces to the Front and Back Posts so that the Supports follow the angle of the Posts and overhang on each end. Draw a line along the interior side of the Posts with your pencil – this will be the angle that you will need to cut. After cutting the marked angles, drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Top and Bottom Door Frame, Side Door Frames, and Door Panel. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Door Frames and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in all sides of the Door Panel. Again, make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Playhouse. Center the Door Panel within the Door Frame that was just assembled and attach with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Door Panel should be set back 1/2” from the front and the back of the Door Frame. Attach the hinges to the Door Frame and Post as shown so that there is a constant 1/4” gap on all sides of the door. Attach a knob if desired.
Cut the pieces for the Left Side Mail Panel and Left Side Bottom Panel. Drill pilot holes in each corner of the mail slot. Then, cut out the mail slot as shown with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of each Panel (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2×2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Back Side Top Roof Panel, Back Side Top Left Panel, Back Side Top Right Panel, and Back Side Bottom Left Panel. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Right and Bottom Left Panels with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2×2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Right Side Bottom Left Panel and Right Side Bottom Right Panel. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2×2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.
Cut the pieces for the Front Top Roof Panel and Front Bottom Left and Right Panels. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Roof Panel with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2×2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.
- Cut the piece for the Front Sliding Panel. Drill 1” holes as shown on each side of the Panel. If desired, paint the Sliding Panel with chalkboard paint.
- Cut the pieces for the Sliding Panels Guides. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each ends of the guides. Place the Sliding Panel between the front and back guides on both the top and bottom. Install as shown with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. The pocket holes on the guides should face the inside of the Playhouse.
- There should be a 1/2” space between the guides when installed.
Cut the pieces for the Top. There will be approximately a 3” overhang on all sides. Attach to the Playhouse Frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. / Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
DIY / Home / Studio
Once upon a time, in a land not so far away, a poor little courtyard patio had seen her better day. Once she was loved and cherished so, but now her color had begun to go. Worn and tattered, not looking her best, this patio used to be heads above the rest.
In the winter her favorite little children do slip, when her surface gets wet since she has no more grip. This makes her upset when her kids just don't visit, it's her uneven concrete that seems to be the culprit. She waits and waits, much time has gone bye, she needs to act now, she just has to try. She decides to take these matters to heart, so she gathers her courage and she gets a head start. Ugly and useless she will be no more, she can't wait to show them what she has in store.
The next day she began and took matters into her own hands, she gathered up some prep work supplies to fix these wastelands. A hose, garden sprayer, deck cleaner and a push broom, that is all she needed to make this well prepped space bloom. You see, it's the prep that matters the most, when creating a space worthy of champagne toast.
With plants watered well to keep them protected, she sprayed herself down with deck cleaner and waited. The gunk and grime was washing away, there will be no more dirt when she's done with this spray, hooray!
Now that the patio is fairly well wetted, she will let the deck cleaner sit till it's dry and all signs of dirt have been vetted.
Look at her shine, she is all nice and clean, she will continue tomorrow but till then she is pristine. She will gather supplies to rescue her finish, she is excited to no longer be so unstylish.
To be continued…;
This project was created in partnership with Olympic, all opinions and crazy talk are 100% my own. Thank you for supporting the partners that make the new and original content on this site possible. I heart you guys.
Design
Life around here is utter chaos almost all of the time. While I wish I could say I live in an orderly, beautiful home, it very rarely is. We are busy, and even though I know that a well made bed each morning would make everything feel just a little less so, I still don’t manage to remember to do this. Yet, it is my absolute habit to make up and straighten out the bedding before I head to sleep. Go figure.
I am trying to embrace the little moments just a bit more, all of life’s messy stuff. I know that one day it will all be something I look back on and wish for just a few more minutes of. But one thing I can say for now, is that these beautiful unkempt and tousled beds make me think there is more than just a special moment to find in the day-to-day, perhaps there is even beauty.
It is nothing if not extremely difficult, to style bedding in a casual slightly messy way. So hard. When I see these gorgeous spaces styled just so, it makes me truly appreciate not only the small details that life brings my way, it certainly makes me see that my messy bed is a representation of my very full life and how busy my many wonderful things keep me.;
Given the extreme skill it requires to make blankets look lived in and casual, without being a straight up mess, I am keenly aware of the amazing efforts of the stylist behind these images. And now I have taken us in an entirely different direction from gratitude and chaos to photography and interiors… yep, that is just about how this old head of mine works. Eek
But seriously, don’t these spaces make you want to have a loungy stay-cation in a very minimal bedroom? Ya, me too.
For more Blissful Bedroom Inspiration, check out my Pinterest Board!
Showcase
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Modifications
I chose to replace the top drawer with an open shelf and modified the dimensions to suit my space.
Finishing Technique
American Walnut Stain and Polyurethane
DIY
I’m back! Did you miss me? Did you notice I was missing in action? No? Shucks… Well you just might have noticed this project from a little while back, and if not, feel free to check it out… I shall be here!
Last week, I had the pleasure of joining the fabulous folks at Lowe’s in the Big Apple, and we put this project to film of a very different variety, or in other words… to film that was shot by a crazy big team of professionals and not with my camera! I am so excited to share this with you guys, it just happens to be the most fantastic stop motion six second vine video and was completely directed and produced by a rather large team of people who do this sort of thing for a living – in real life! The star of the show is such a hunk and I was sad to leave him behind. But alas.. all good things come to an end at some point or another, am I right? Lucky for us, this hilarious take on my easy no-sew pillow project runs on a loop so we can enjoy this over and over till our heart’s content! Yahoo, feast your eyes!
I will be back in the next couple of days to fill you in on all of the behind the scenes details! It is definitely not something you want to miss! There was impromptu dancing, a private concert of sorts, a gorgeous hotel and fabulous food with some mighty fine company… good stuff.
Plans
The Holidays are right around the corner and sneaking up on us pretty quickly, whether we like it or not. Get a jump start on your gift list this year and build something fabulous for a very special kiddo in your life. From full sized play house fun to accessories fit for the more petite members of your doll family, there is something amazing and encouraging of open ended play for everyone, in this round up of our most popular DIY play inspiring project plans.
While I am a firm believer that toys should be nondescriminate and able to be played with by either boys or girls, I have divided up these plans by play style preference, and naturally they seem to have fallen into precisely the type of categorization I prefer to avoid – or boy vs girl. I assure you this was not my original intention and wholeheartedly think boys and girls alike, should enjoy play kitchens and dolls and adventure activities. So I have created these projects with the idea that each and every one of them can be entirely customized to suit your little one perfectly, from color to fabric and trim styles too. Make it theirs… And take lots of pictures along the way.
1 // Indoor Outdoor Play House Bed 2 // Chalkboard Artist's Studio 3 // No-Sew Teepee 4 // Wooden Racetrack Toy 5 // Gourmet Kitchen
Showcase
I modified the benches to make stools. They work great. The plans were very easy to follow and it looks awesome in the backyard…just in time for the winter, haha.
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post
Estimated Cost
About $60 for the stools and $50-60 for the table.
Length of Time
Approx 3 days…took me longer because I couldnt do it all at one time. 🙂
Plans
By special reader request, this media console is so very handsome and wants to live in your home… So go forth and build this beautiful baby and make your home that much more stylish!
- 1 – 2×4 at 8’
- 7 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-1/4” – Cabinet Sides
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/4”x56” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
- 4 – 2×4 at 6” – Legs
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x56” – Cabinet Back
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x18” – Center Divider
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x37-1/4” – Left Shelf
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18” – Right Shelf
- 6 – 1×2 at 16” – Door Tops and Bottoms
- 6 – 1×2 at 18” – Door Sides
- 27 – 1×2 at 15” – Door Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg Jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Console. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the Legs. You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Console Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won’t have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.
Attach Legs to the bottom of the Console as shown with glue and 1-3/4” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 3/4” from the Sides of the Console and flush with the front edge of the Console. Insert the wood screws down through the Console Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with items placed inside the Console.
Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the Back. Attach the Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Console.
Cut the piece for the Center Divider. Drill pocket holes in the top andbottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocketscrews.
Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Drill pocket holes in the ends of theshelves and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.There will be an approximate 1/2” space in the back between the shelvesand the Console Back.
Cut the pieces for the Door Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Drill pocket holesin the ends of the Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Attach as shown with glueand 1-1/4” pocket screws. There will be a 1/4” gap between each Slat.Repeat this for all three Doors. Remember to keep checking for “square”on each door – each door should measure the same diagonally in bothdirections.
Attach hinges as shown at the top and bottom of the Doors and attach tothe Console. There will be a 1/4” space between each installed Door.Add Door hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
Design / Entertaining / Home / Shopping / Studio
We had a brief moment last week, where the temperatures dropped slightly and it was rainy and overcast. It was glorious and just a taste of what is to come. It left me wanting nothing more than to sit by the fire and snuggle in with my boys. So naturally, my mantel is the first area of my home to get a seasonal update.
My favorite way to usher in any new season is to add a few easy pieces to my fireplace mantel that have the feel and color palette I am craving. No major sweeping changes, just a smattering of new details to create the perfect ambiance. Target is my first stop when I need change in my home, and I never leave empty handed, or without an overflowing cart full of gorgeous décor. My recent field trip there to find some fabulous fall accessories for a seasonal update was no exception. I found so many amazing pieces to help me set the mood for the coming months.
This fall I am coveting simple and pared back decor with natural elements and warm subdued brassy touches. I always adore a timeless black and white look, and this season I am giving this classic a fresh take by adding neutral and natural decor, graphic geometric lines, and warm brassy metallic accessories.
Must Have Essentials for bringing a warm and cozy feel to your Mantel //
Light / As the days begin to grow shorter and a the temperatures begin to drop, having more light and warmth in your home is necessary. I add a bit of both by lighting a fire in my fireplace. When a fire isn’t possible, I love to add an extra light fixture or two to my space. Since I love to do something unexpected, adding a lamp or pair of lamps to my mantel is one of my favorite ways to spice things up and add a bit more functionality to my room.
Subdued Sparkle / Since the Winter Holidays tend to require an overabundance of sparkle, by nature, I like to get my feet wet by adding a bit of warm subdued sparkle to my home during fall. Muted gold and brass is a great way to amp up that cozy feeling I am craving this time of year. The beautiful and unassuming ceramic bowl on the mantel provides just a hint of what’s inside with it’s gorgeous gold rimmed edge.
Natural Elements / Nothing says fall to me like changing leaves and sparse branches so I love to add natural elements to my mantle, and bring a bit of the outdoors in. This creates the perfect textural layer to my decor.
Comfort / As a family, we spend quite a bit of time on the floor. I suppose that comes with the territory when you have young children, especially boys. The boys are mesmerized by a nice fire in the fireplace, so adding a plush rug in front of the hearth and having a soft chunky cable-knit throw and several throw pillows within reach is the ideal way to entice the adults to join in and gather around to spend some quality time unplugged and enjoying each other.
Simplicity / With the chaos that is typical during the summer months, the Fall is when I want nothing more than simple uncluttered décor and life to move a slower pace. This time of year is my calm before the storm of the winter months, so unfussy surroundings that are easy to maintain and enjoy, bring me great pleasure.
Taste / We are a home filled entirely with boys, with the exception of me, so naturally food is something of a large focus here. The fall just happens to bring all of the flavors that I love most, from apple to pumpkin spice to every fall-inspired drink and baked good in between. These things provide a taste of the season that is so very welcome after the blistering summer months here. I always have healthy and easy to prepare food in my home, but during the fall this is one area where I love to do away with convenience and take the time to make and bake from scratch. It’s actually the only time of year I tend to do this so I try to keep these flavors close at hand and a cute accent table near the hearth is ideal for this. A well placed pitcher and ice bucket take an otherwise standard daily ritual to the next level and make it a bit more special. There is something magical about picking apples and choosing pumpkins as a family, and then making those fall fresh things into a sweet treat. It forces me to slow down and focus on nothing more than the task at hand and that is nearly impossible to do otherwise.
DIY / Home
Tis the season, as they say, and with this easy project you will add just the right amount of haunt to your Halloween decor, in a snap. To create your own Ram’s Horn Display Shelf, only a few items and a few minutes of your time are needed. This project is seriously that easy… if you love the look of taxidermy or horns, then this could easily be a project you create any time of year, it really isn’t specific to Halloween!
The rest of this spooky holiday display is fairly straightforward, but I will list the sources and materials used here for easy reference just a bit further down, so stay tuned after the tutorial for a full breakdown.
MATERIALS // Shelf
/ 1×6 at 6 feet. I used a dog eared cedar fence board like this because they are really inexpensive!
/ 2 – 1 1/2″ Right Angle Brackets
/ 1 1/4″ Screws and Wall Anchors for Drywall
/ #6 3/8″ Screws if using a fence board and #6 1/2″ Screws if using a regular 1×6 board.
/ Gold Ram’s Horns
/ Sandpaper
/ Finishing Supplies if you plan to paint or stain your shelf. I left mine natural.
INSTRUCTIONS //
/ Cut your board down to size. Something around or under 3 feet in length is best. Sand according to your intended finish. If you plan to leave natural, sand rough edges and you will obviously need to sand quite a bit more if you plan to stain or paint your shelf. Attach your right angle brackets approximately 4 to 6 inches in from the outside edges of your board (the longer your board, the further in you will place your brackets). The hardware will attach to the bottom your board and hang downward. Mark your holes on the wall where you plan to fasten your shelf (since you attached the brackets to the board already, this will be a snap) and then put your wall anchors in place according to the instructions on the package. Set the screw holes on your bracket hardware over the top of your wall anchors (which should be fairly flush to the wall once in place) and using the screws provided with your anchors, fasten your shelf in place.
/ You are going to place a 2 1/2″ drywall screw just to the outside of each of your brackets and fairly close to the bottom of your board. You will not screw this in very far. It should protrude from your wall about 2 1/4″ give or take.
/ Cut your horns apart (they likely have a clear cord that would sit around your head if you were using these properly – but we are not – so cut the cord my friends, or at least unsecure it. Holding your horns at the approximate location of your long screws, determine the angle you want them to sit and make a light mark on the top in this place to note the direction for our next step. Using an extra screw, create a small hole in the flat part of the horn that is fairly near the top edge, just below where you made your mark. You are going to use this hole to help you slide the horn over the top of your screw. It will rest on the screw and sit under your board, appearing as though it is the bracket for your shelf. ** You can use a bit of mounting tape or duck tape to stick your horn in place over your brackets so they will hide the hardware and also so they are not loose. You want them to sit nice and tight, right up against your board.
That is it, you are finished! Place something light weight to display on your shelf!
To mount my antler inside the frame, I simply used removable mounting putty on each point where it touches the wall. This baby is pretty secure over here, but if you expect small children to be in the vicinity (especially below a sharp pointy antler), perhaps you should secure using nylon finishing line and wrap around the hardware used to hang your frame.
DECOR SOURCES // Halloween Cat / Halloween Crow / Golden Horns
VINTAGE + OTHER ITEMS // Frame is Vintage / Table – Zinc Garden Table from Crate & Barrel – Similar Table Here and Exact Table For Sale By Owner Here / Stacking Candelabra – PotteryBarn – Similar Found Here and Here / Antlers found on eBay – Similar Here and Here / Gold + White Antler Wall Sculpture – Target Threshold Brand – this would work beautifully as well.
Design / Shopping
We had rain! Two weeks ago now, and since then we have had temperatures in the upper 90’s. Ugh. I am green with envy of those places that have cooled at least slightly. While I love my summertime, more than most, I am truly a tad tired of the heat. Sunshine I welcome any day of the week, but seriously it has been a bit more than even I care to indulge in. It seems we are stuck in limbo with leaves that want to change with the season but plants that are confused and have blossomed again. It is nothing if not odd. So while I lament the absence of lovely autumn inspired greens we typically see take over the otherwise golden rolling hills of El Dorado, and the gorgeous cool mornings with beautiful fall colors hanging on the trees… I will celebrate these long lost hues by loving on some gorgeous photography in foggy tones, indoor planters with an earthy feel, and lovely accessories in all the colors I seem to be lacking.
1 // Pampa Horse Black + White Prints 2 // Sweatshirt Plaid Green Blanket3 // Walnut and Beech Double Stripe Snack Bowls 4 // Ombre Yellow Striped Coasters 5 // Light Block 6 // Hand Woven Pillow 7 // Walsh Firewood Carrier 8 // Concrete Planters
Plans
The Low Loft Bunk Bed Series is hands down our most popular series of project plans to date. Many of you have asked for a queen sized version of this fabulous sleeper and I am finally obliging! Yahoo. I have made a modification to the ladder in this plan, for both the orientation as well as the method of construction, to be more accomodating to adults and to allow for a more compact footprint. You can refer to this if you prefer it, when you are building any of the other sizes, and can adjust the width for the person who will use it. Easy to build, and extremely budget friendly, this Free Woodworking plan to build a queen sized low loft bunk bed is the perfect project for those of you who need to go up rather than out in your furniture layout. Upward and onward, as they say.
The other amazing plans in this collection are below!
- 4 – 4×4 at 6′ Fence Posts – UNTREATED
- 2 – 2×6 at 8′
- 2 – 2×6 at 6′
- 14 – 2×4 at 8′
- 15 – 1×4 at 6′ – if 8′ boards are cheaper, buy those – you will have leftover scrap.
- 4 – 4×4 at 59″ – Legs
- 2 – 2×6 at 81″ – Side Rails
- 2 – 2×6 at 70″ – Head / Foot Rails
- 2 – 2×4 at 81″ – Cleats
- 4 – 2×4 at 81″ – Upper Side Rails and Center Support Joists
- 4 – 2×4 at 70″ – Upper Head / Foot Rails
- 1 – 2×4 at 59″ – Front Guard Rai Ladder Leg
- 4 – 2×4 at 8 3/4″ – Lower Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
- 1 – 2×4 at 18″ – Upper Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
- 2 – 2×4 at 55″ – Guard Rail Side Upper Rails
- 4 – 2×4 at 27″ – Ladder Rungs
- 15 – 1×4 at 67″ – Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut all 4 Legs to size and then notch out the sections shown in the image on one of the legs. You can use a jig saw, table saw or a circular saw to do this. Then attach the Cleats to the Side Rails using 2″ Screws and be sure the bottom of the Side Rail and the Cleat are flush. You
To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2″ on either side of the ends of the Rails to allow for the Head and Foot Rails later. Clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16″ Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side (the leg, rail and cleat), creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts that will secure this.
Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.
Attach the Lower Head and Foot Rails to the Side Rails so that they sit flush with the outside of the Legs and with the Lower Side Rails. Use 3″ Screws to secure these to the Side Rails. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ material, to secure the Center Support Joists to the Head and Foot Rails and 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws. Then fasten the Upper Side Rails one one side (not the side that will have your ladder) to the Back Legs using 3″ Screws.
Create your Guard Rail Leg Unit. This will be 2 – 2×4’s, one long and the other cut into sections with spacing and dimensions as shown in the image. This will hold your ladder rungs later so just be sure that the separation between your shorter ladder supports will actually fit a 2×4 nice and snug. You need to fit it in place but you don’t want any wiggle room so a tight fit is better than a slightly loose fit. Attach the Front Upper Side Rails to the Leg using 3″ screws and attach to the Guard Rail Leg Unit using 2″ Screws.
Attach the Upper Head Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3″ Screws and secure into the ends of the Upper Side Rails.
Lay your Slats approximately 2″ apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4″ Screws or Nails and fasten to both cleats and both support joists.
Attach the remaining 2 upper Foot Rails to the Back Upper Side Rails and the Front Leg using a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) set for 1 1/2″ materials and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rails to the front Leg. To fasten the Foot Rails to the Back Side you can either use Pocket Hole Screws and glue to connect them to the Back Leg or 3″ Wood Screws and Glue, with a countersink bit to predrill and secure directly to the end of the Upper Side Rails.
Slide the Ladder Rungs into place and secure with glue. You can choose to secure with 3″ Wood Screws from the legs into the ends of the rungs, but this is optional and you can absolutely secure with glue and call it a day!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.
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