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Shopping
I have been trying to get this fabulous roundup of things I am currently loving, published since Friday – I'm obviously winning and firing on all cylinders, no? To be fair, it was my baby seester's birthday and we had a game of hot Yahtzee on the books, following cake and presents. I had to prepare, my friends, and work on my poker face. Also I needed to practice doing math in my head, since that is apparently my weakness. Complicated mathematical calculations and fractions are my jam, but 2 plus 17 plus 6 kind of stuff – not so much.
I am in the midst of a major life altering overhaul in every room in my home. Spring cleaning has come early this year and I am all about reducing and ridding myself of excess. Since I can't actually get rid of everything and must keep a few things, I have been crushing on stylish storage and productivity promoting goods. It is so freeing, I can't even tell you. I feel 10 pounds lighter from getting rid of clothing I have been carting around with me for the last 10 or more years.
1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // 7 // 8 // 9 // 10
I stick to basics in my everyday life, so I figure my home should reflect that. For those things I use and want to keep, I will be upgrading many of them to higher quality goods or a more grownup version wherever possible. Since this Naturally, I am crushing on stylish storage and productivity promoting goods to help me organize and stay on task. I am a donating and organizing machine right now and this is not even a slight exaggeration (can't wait to show you my big big project – squeal – so good). If it isn't nailed down (and even if it is), it is going in the donate pile, going to live in it's forever home in a storage bin or drawer, or getting relocated and put back up with a new nail in a new spot that works better for me. The first step on the road to recovery is admitting that even though you have a complete system in place, it is obviously not working and is absolutely ok to throw said system in the virtual trash bin and begin again with a new system.
Part of that system, at least for me, is going to be adorable and durable storage solutions that look good while they are letting it all hang out. Control the chaos and consider the children – this is my new mantra. My boys make more messes and smears than I could have ever imagined when they were angelic babes in bunny suits and blankets. But they need to learn to help wrangle toys and put things away, especially if I want to have any hope that another gal will take them in when they are grown and make decent husbands of them. I'm hoping that if I make clean up accessible to them given their ages, I stand a 5% chance they may actually pick up their stuff after I rant and rave for an hour. Fingers Crossed…
You can check out my expanded curated collection of handmade Goods to promote a January Refresh and browse my inspirations to help keep me motivated and on track over on Pinterest.
Plans
If you have more than one kiddo and they have things – maybe even quite a few things- a bunk bed with rolling trundle and bookshelf storage is going to be your new bff slash sanity saver. Today’s plan is an exciting one but it is quite a whopper of a furniture plan, broken down into a lot of steps, so I am breaking it up into 2 parts for easier digesting! Otherwise we will be here all week typing out the instructions… eek! This plan focuses on the upper and lower bunk beds or basically the bunk bed portion of this plan – duh! The next plan will cover the rolling trundle and the bookshelves. I can’t wait to see your builds of this project, don’t forget to submit them to our Builder’s Showcase.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 6 – 1×2 at 8’
- 16 – 1×4 at 8’
- 8 – 2×4 at 8’
- 6 – 2×6 at 8’
- 3 – 4×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1/4” sheet of plywood at 2’x4’
- 5 – 3/4” sheets of plywood at 4’x8’
- 4 – 4×4 at 70” – Bed Posts
- 4 – 2×4 at 78” – Back Panel Frames
- 4 – 2×4 at 43” – Side Panel Frames
- 4 – 2×6 at 82” – Front and Back Rails
- 4 – 1×4 at 82” – Front and Back Cleats
- 4 – 2×6 at 43” – Side Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 55-1/2” – Front Frame Top and Bottom
- 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/2” – Front Frame Sides
- 2 – 2×4 at 57-3/4” – Ladder Rails
- 5 – 2×4 at 18” – Ladder Rungs
- 28 – 1×4 at 40”– Slats
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x78” – Panel A
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/2”x78” – Panel B
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 11”x43” – Panel C
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 8-1/2”x43” – Panel D
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 9-1/2”x55-1/2” – Panel E
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 11”x43” – Panel F
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 28-1/4”x43” – Panel G
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 8-1/2”x43” – Panel H
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the pieces for the Bed Posts and Panel Frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of each Panel Frame piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Step 2
Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Rails and Front and Back Cleats. Attach a Cleat to the bottom edge of a Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp each Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the Side Rails. The Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Panel Frame should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Rail, Cleat, and Bed Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and Tighten. This step should be done a total of 4 times – twice for the top bed (front and back) and twice for the bottom bed (front and back).
Step 3
Cut the pieces for Side Rails. With the Kreg jig still set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Side Rails. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Step 4
Next, cut the pieces for the Front Frame. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Front Frame Top and Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Front Frame to the Front Rail with 2-1/2” wood screws.
Step 5
Cut the pieces for the Ladder Rails and Ladder Rung. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Ladder Rungs. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Ladder to the Bed with glue and 2-1/2” wood screws.
Cut the pieces for the Bed Slats. On each end of the bed, there will be three Slats placed next to each other. The reason for this is that the Bunk Beds need to be longer than necessary to accommodate the Trundle underneath. Because of this, a twin-sized mattress will be approximately 6” shorter than the length of the Bunk Bed. We have extra Slats at the ends because we don’t want any feet falling through the Bed! Repeat for both the top and the bottom Bed, laying out the Slats with spacing as shown. Attach the Bed Slats to the Cleats with 1-1/2” wood screws.
Step 7
Cut the pieces for the Panels. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each side of each Panel. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
(back view followed by front view)
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Design / Home
This room is everything. Really it’s more like a wall within a room, but still… soooo good. This space is like a tall drink of water in the Sahara – relaxing and serene yet filled with life, warm and calm like a gentle breeze in the hot desert sun. It draws me in like a stressed out mama to netflix with the promise of hours upon end of binge watching the last season of Peaky Blinders (so good – by the way).
It has been a while since I have posted a Room Envy article and 5 things so I thought today would be the perfect occasion! If this is your first Room Envy + 5 Things here at the House of TDC, you can read past articles here, and they are basically my chance to share a room or space that seems to represent a life or lifestyle worthy of envy and 5 things about me that you likely don’t know. A little up close and personal with a bit of pretty inspiration thrown in, so here goes…
1 // I am supposed to be at ALT this very minute and instead I am sitting here with a sad face moping about how fab last year’s ALT was, while I focus on everything I am missing out on. Ya, a pretty positive way to handle things, no?
2 // I turned 35 in November. In many ways it was unremarkable, which I consider a good thing, because it is not lost on me that I very likely seem older to younger people and I am now officially no longer part of the young adult crowd. At 35 I can’t even stretch my imagination to claim such a thing. It isn’t as if I could at 30, but I guess it finally dawned on me that I am now seen differently from the outside world than I feel on the inside. It is a weird dichotomy, to be sure.
3 // I get to have my wisdom teeth removed in two weeks. Yep, lucky me, at the not-so-young age of 35 I get to party like a young buck with nothing but a popsicle and water diet. Maybe I will lose 5 pounds in the process… A gal can dream can’t she?
4 // This Room Envy space is actually the inspiration for my Dining Room. You saw my unlikely nightsand turned dining room storage and display and I will be sharing other tidbits next week. I am not sure how close to the original inspiration the room will actually be, but it was a fabulous jumping off point.
5 // I am working on one of the greatest makeovers of all time, while I am chipping away at the Dining Room. It is a whopper of a before and after reveal, I can say that for sure and I am not even close to the after yet. Well that isn’t precisely true, I guess I am more than half way finished and it is incredible already. I will be sharing the before pictures with you next week also! But you have to promise not to judge… or at least not to judge to harshly, eek!
Showcase
I want to thank you for the plans on your site. The Provence beam table was exactly what I was looking for. I made a few modifications that you and your readers might be interested in for variety’s sake. The only good choice for outdoor wood here in Tucson was redwood, and 2x10s were not available, so I used 2x6s and did a mitered picture frame around the 10’ interior 2x6s (I used 12’ 2x6s for the outer pieces) giving a total length of 130”. I added a central post to give a bit more support to the middle of the span, and a better way to secure the table planks. I also built it to be 28” tall. I used biscuit joinery for all the base since I already had a biscuit joiner. I used Watco danish oil (natural) for the finish. The project took a weekend and a few evenings. The table will easily seat ten.
The main drawback to using the biscuit method is the necessity to clamp everything, but anyone who has a biscuit joiner probably already has an assortment of clamps. I ended up using a strap clamp made from two ratcheting tie-down straps ($20 from the local Ace Hardware) to clamp the table top parts. That would be easier with pocket screws.
Home
Oh yes, my fabulous unlikely nightstand has a new home. It seems like every time I finish a space, I systematically undo everything good about the space and start again in some way. Obviously I have a loose screw. But in my defense, I have been on the hunt for a vintage dining room table and chairs for some time, and I recently found something that made my heart skip a beat (I will share all about my new beauty later in the week) and that something happened to be blond. Now, I don’t mind mixing wood tones, or metallics for that matter… obviously. Once I found the table I took a good look at my Master Bedroom and felt like with recent changes I have made in there, this gorgeous shelf was a bit of the odd gal out, if you know what I mean. Since she is blond like my table for the dining room, it got me thinking that it would perhaps be the perfect thing to fill this awkward wall that spans clear to the second story. Such a tricky thing to style since it is relatively narrow but super duper tall. It would be overwhelming to go all the way up, but not going up high enough would be equally not perfecto. These shelves with their height and open framework are the perfect compromise of size and weight and I couldn’t be happier with the new space for me to store and display my goods.
Truly equal parts form and function here. Yahoo.
The shelves in all their glory in the previous space, worked with the headboard situation I had going on at the time this image was shot. But alas that has also changed in the last month (I know… such a horrible blogger who takes years to update you all) and so there isn’t much left to tie these shelves into the space anymore. Of course this leaves a rather large gap in my Master that will need to be addressed real quick like because it is making me twitch when I walk into this now undone room. Seriously.
Just for the hell of it, let’s take a look back and see how far this unlikely nightstand has actually come. It feels pretty monumental to me, but I still have so much work on the dining room to finish before it feels truly full circle I guess.
Her modest beginnings as a brand new member of the family, nearly a year ago (or more? eek). Oh how my eyes lit up when I stumbled upon her, left out in the cold as someone’s trash. A little bit of TLC and she was shining bright in her new home as my unlikely nightstand.
As this space grew and morphed into my dreamy master bedroom, so did these shelves grow to feel a bit more grown up and complete.
As I updated the art, and focused on the gallery wall flanking these shelves, the more spectacular they became… until I threw a wrench into the whole plan and ripped them from their comfy surroundings and put them into an entirely new space and with an entirely new purpose. Yikes! It’s a damn good thing this new arrangement feels like home for these shelves… for now.
Of course no project would be complete without this cute face helping dismantle everything I do as I go along. Oh how my boys both love to decorate and undecorate. They Must get it from me?!
Plans
This fine looking specimen has quite a bit in common with one of our most loved on project plans, the Indoor / Outdoor Provence Beam Dining Table, but if you notice the fancy schmancy truss setup supporting this table, it is essentially like the Provence on steroids. So my friends, I will go so far as to say that if you have your heart set on the Provence, but you like an element of this new exciting guy, then by all means, build the Provence and add any modification from this set of plans to give it a little extra something. Or just build this table. Whatevs.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 4×4 at 8’
- 20 – 2×4 at 8’
// Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces – some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps.
- 2 – 2×4 at 35” – Side Top
- 2 – 4×4 at 35” – Side Bottom
- 4 – 2×4 at 25” – Side Outsides
- 4 – 2×4 at 10” – Side Inside A
- 2 – 2×4 at 10-3/4” – Side Inside B
- 2 – 2×4 at 15-3/4” – Side Inside C
- 2 – 2×4 at 27-3/4” – Side Inside D
- 1 – 2×4 at 89” – Center Bottom
- 2 – 2×4 at 7-3/4” – Center Outside A
- 2 – 2×4 at 20-3/4” – Center Outside B
- 1 – 2×4 at 39-3/4” – Center Inside A
- 1 – 2×4 at 27” – Center Inside B
- 1 – 2×4 at 67-1/4” – Center Inside C
- 12 – 2×4 at 96” – Table Top Boards
- 2 – 2×4 at 42” – Table Ends
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Side Top and Side Bottom (current pieces shown in white for each step).
Next, cut the pieces for the Side Outsides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of each Side Outside piece. For this Table, we have located the pocket holes either facing the inside of the Table or facing the ground. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the Side Insides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Side Inside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Cut the piece for the Center Bottom.
Next, cut the pieces for the Center Outsides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Outside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the Center Insides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Inside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for Table Top Boards and Table Top Ends. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Table Top Board. To make sure that the Table Top is as flat as possible, drill several pocket holes along the long side of the Table Top Boards as shown below. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
(Bottom view)
Lay the assembled Table Top on the ground with its bottom facing up. Next, position the assembled Table Sides on each end of the Table Top as shown below. The Table Sides will be positioned 3-1/2” from both the long and short edges of the Table Top. Attach the Table Sides to the Table Top with 2-1/2” wood screws through the Side Top into the Table Top. Drill pilot holes if necessary.
With the Table still upside down, place the assembled Table Center onto the Table Top, between the Table Sides as shown. Center Inside A and Center Inside C will be 8” from the Table Sides and 19-1/4” from the Table Top edges. The Center Bottom will be centered on the Side Bottoms, with 15-3/4” on each side as shown. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Flip this fancy table over and admire all those angle cuts!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
DIY
If built-in shelving is not an option for you at the moment, and custom or specialty shelving never was an option, fear not…. these five stylish shelving solutions are totally DIY'able even for the not so craftily inclined. Promise!
While this beauty above appears to be made of copper sheeting, it also happens to resemble those clever little track systems and and a couple of shelf standards. With a bit of spray paint and 1/2 inch plywood to span between the brackets, you can create your own shiny modular shelving unit to suit your exact needs. OF course if brass is more your jam, these babies listed below will do the trick – no spray paint necessary. You can span the brackets with clear acrylic, plywood, or any type of 1×12 board and cover it with contact paper to match the brackets and standards.
Materials // Shelf Standards / Brackets / Plexi / Plywood / 1×12 / Spray Paint
Image Via
I see this fabulous shelving system as new take on the tried and true favorite of the blog world – the industrial pipe shelf. This solution uses a series of ropes and hooks to hang shelves at various heights and locations and would be so much less expensive than piping or miles of conduit.
Materials // Rope / Ceiling Hook / 1×12 Boards
Image Via
This gorgeous overabundance of gorgeous shelving requires little handiwork aside from painting and hanging, but what big impact it has, no? Oh how my OCD inner self would be in pure bliss with this many shelves to choose from.
Materials // Ikea Ekby Brackets / 1×12 Boards / Spray Paint
Image Via
A truly imaginative way to store pots and pans on display, but just think of all of the potential uses for a structural statement piece like this. A bit of copper piping, some elbow pieces and a bit of strapping here and there to keep it in place and the sky is the limit with how large and in what cool shape you could make this. Coats, magazines, fabric… I mean, I could have this beauty loaded up in under 5 minutes if you gave me half a chance. In fact I did do something similar to this in my Entryway Update. I will show the full steps and pieces I used in the next couple of weeks in case you want more detail!
Materials // 3/4 Inch Copper Pipe / 3/4 Inch 90 Degree Elbows / 3/4 Inch Copper Pipe Straps
Image Via
This gleaming little (actually big) gem is brass plated and very likely more costly than I even dare to imagine. But, a well priced industrial shelving unit and a few cans of brassy spray paint and I imagine you would have yourself a much more satisfying gleam in your eye, since you would have managed to keep your life savings intact over a pretty little towel rack (actually a big towel rack in this case – and literally for storing towels).
Materials // Industrial Shelving / Spray Paint
Image Via
Because sometimes it just needs to be easy and simple and not require special skills or tools, am I right? What easy yet stylish shelving solutions are you loving? Please share, I would love to see what you are currently crushing on!
Plans
A simple yet high impact accent table, these Free DIY Furniture Plans for a Darjeeling End Table are easy to build and budget friendly too! Make one arc, then use it as your template for the rest and you are virtually finished!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
- 2 – 1/2” plywood at 6” radius circle – Table Top and Bottom
- 16 – 1/2” plywood at 8” x 19” – Table Spindles
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut out the Table Top and Bottom. Mark a 6” radius circle on 1/2” plywood as shown and cut out the shape with your jigsaw. Repeat twice. With a pencil, mark a 1-1/2” radius circle on the inside center of the Top and the Bottom pieces as a reference to later position the Spindles. Apply edge banding if desired.
Step 2
Cut out the pieces for the Table Spindles. Mark an 11-1/2” radius arc and a 14-1/2” radius arc on 1/2” plywood as shown and cut out the shape with your jigsaw. Repeat sixteen times. Apply edge banding if desired.
Step 3
Position 4 of the Spindles between the Table Top and Table Bottom as shown – with one positioned at the “starting point,” then 90, 180, and 270 degrees from the starting point. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/2” countersunk wood screws. When preparing to countersink the screws, make sure that the screws are positioned more toward the outer edge of the Table Top and Table Bottom so that the screws do not go through a shallow portion of the Spindle and exit its other side.
Step 4
Top view of the first four Spindles layout (Table Top is not shown for easier viewing). The 1-1/2” radius circle that is drawn in the middle of the Table Bottom is for Spindle alignment purposes only.
Step 5
Position 4 more of the Spindles between the Table Top and Table Bottom as shown – each positioned 45 degrees from the original four Spindles. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/2” countersunk wood screws. When preparing to countersink the screws, make sure that the screws are positioned more toward the outer edge of the Table Top and Table Bottom so that the screws do not go through a shallow portion of the Spindle and exit its other side.
Top view of the second group of four Spindles layout (Table Top is not shown for easier viewing). The 1-1/2” radius circle that is drawn in the middle of the Table Bottom is for Spindle alignment purposes only.
Step 7
Position the last 8 of the Spindles between the Table Top and Table Bottom as shown – each positioned 22-1/2 degrees from neighboring Spindles. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/2” countersunk wood screws. When preparing to countersink the screws, make sure that the screws are positioned more toward the outer edge of the Table Top and Table Bottom so that the screws do not go through a shallow portion of the Spindle and exit its other side.
Step 8
Top view of the final group of eight Spindles layout (Table Top is not shown for easier viewing). The 1-1/2” radius circle that is drawn in the middle of the Table Bottom is for Spindle alignment purposes only.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Showcase
Alright – time for some pics! We spent a couple weekends on this. We used cedar for the wood and kreg jig for all joints. I only messed up the back rails a little bit by trying to get a cut to fit against the forward-facing edge of the back support instead of anchoring underneath. The cushions came from Lowes (Allen & Roth, $50 for bottom/back after a coupon). After building the sofa, which is HUGE (75″ interior width, cushions are 25″ ea) my wife asked that I size down the loveseat for her petite frame. I shortened the reclined portion of the seat by 5 or 6″ and dropped the height of the arms so that it fit her. I built the single chair to the same specs as the sofa. We primed with SWilliams wood primer (horrible and slow to work with but will pay off) and painted with a green from Lowes since SW wouldn’t make the color we wanted in an outdoor finish.
Thanks again for the great plans and guidance along the way. This is my first DIY woodworking project that isn’t something to ride bikes on – those are much more forgiving given that they don’t need to be aesthetically pleasing and the edges aren’t as clean.
Length of Time
Sofa: 10hrs – setup, learn the ins/outs of the miter saw and kreg jig which I’ve never used either of before. This also included time to re-proportion the plans for the cushions as well as a trip to lowes. Loveseat: 6 hrs – trip to lowes, reconfigure plans, build Chair: 4 hrs – I could do the sofa this fast now.
Prime/paint/sand/paint/sand… 8ish? with two of us working.
Home
That new year nesting fever has kicked into high gear around here and I am project crazy at the moment. But I would be nothing without a hot mess of vintage goodness to work over at any given time. When it comes to vintage, there are a few things I am constantly on the hunt for… Seating, Tables, Good Lighting and Art. Naturally, after years on end of this quest for the perfect vintage gems, my collection of chairs is a tad out of hand and at the moment I seem to be swimming in sofas. Don’t even get me started on vintage art – for a gal who hates clutter and chaos, I sure know how to create it with the blink of an eye and 10 minutes at a thrift store, antique fair or craigslist. Eek
But, like all good things, with time and patience and some hand cramping from excessive craigslist trolling, you will of course find some winners in your price range (mine equals dirt cheap). When the Bird (Penn) decided to flex his creative muscles on my sofa (not once but twice with permanent marker and ink) I decided it was time to switch gears from my ongoing hunt for dining room tables and chairs (a story for another day) to sofas and loveseats. And then I did. I stumbled head first upon a fairly deceptive ad on craigslist (and by deceptive I mean – not easy to see it’s gorgeous potential and very likely to scroll right past it) and with a few back and forth emails with the fabulous gal who had this listing, I knew it was going to be mine… oh and it came with a matching Loveseat. I mean… can we say meant to be? The price was perfect for me and she was selling both pieces for $175. The fabric was in good condition with no rips or tears and while the color was not ideal, I knew I wanted to reupholster them in leather (or faux leather which is basically vinyl – cuz I have 2 boys and I’m cheap like that).
This beauty looked just enough like my favorite sofa of yore – that no longer exists and was never actually affordable anyhow – to make me think this caramel slash lager colored leather (vinyl) would be perfect.
Can’t you see it now. So dreamy. I immediately called several upholsterers in town and then promptly sat in the corner to cry once they all told me that even with supplying my own material (which of course they don’t recommend, duh), the labor alone would be several thousand dollars. How could this be? Did I just happen to call the most expensive upholstery peeps in the biz? It’s possible, but not that likely. Which means it is simply not affordable for the average person. So close yet so far away.
Thus began my new quest for a way to make this baby into my dream sofa. Now, I am pretty confident when it comes to my DIY abilities, I mean this is after all a DIY blog and I have after all been known to rock out a DIY project or two here and there… but you guys, I’m not precisely an ace on the sewing machine and leather (vinyl)? Seems so easy to screw up. With the exposed frame and a mix of sectioned and loose cushions – well reupholstering this guy wouldn’t exactly be as simple as a staple gun and some tufting – not that, that is simple anyhow.
So I decided to really get up close and personal with this guy. If you take a good look at the arm in the image up above, perhaps you will see what I saw. It looks like this baby might well have been a leather (vinyl) beauty in a past life. Which of course got me thinking. It certainly needs a good cleaning, and I can see areas where there is still leather showing, and wouldn’t you believe it is the most gorgeous color of caramel lager that I ever did see. But alas there are areas where the leather (vinyl) has worn clean down to the fabric and so much so that it did indeed originally seem as though it was fabric. But there is a moderate amount that isn’t half bad which led me down the rabbit hole of leather restoration and what that entails.
There are a million and one videos on upholstery, so if I stripped the existing upholstery off and used it for a pattern, I might get relatively close in my finished version. But those seams, eek. I have never sewn anything other than curtains successfully and I don’t see leather (vinyl) as being very forgiving. Once a hole has been made, it isn’t as though you can back out of it and not have it show. Eek. Now I do think I have a decent amount of confidence in my ability to paint, and feather, and work a surface until it is somewhat perfect, and this is what restoration seems to involve. But how will it look? Will you know it has been restored since I am nothing close to a professional at leather and vinyl work. Will it look like a weird shiny surface?
Oh what is a girl to do. This is causing me heart palpitations and I’m entirely unsure where to go from here. I might purchase a restoration kit and test it out to see what exactly it entails and how it looks. No harm no foul if it goes awry and I have to go back to my original thought of reupholstery.
Do any of you have experience with leather restoration or upholstery? I’m dying for some advice and input here…. I’m scaaaaarrrrreeeeed, but dying to get this baby up to snuff.
Plans
First came the Fretwork Screen and then came the bed… then came the baby in a baby carriage. Ha, wonder if I am subconsciously creating plans for a little love nest slash staycation. This plan is for a King Sized Bed and if you adore this and yet would like it in another size, feel free to comment on this plan and let me know. It is helpful to keep track of the requests this way. Yahoo… Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 15 – 1×3 at 8’
- 3 – 1×4 at 8’
- 5 – 2×4 at 8’
- 3 – 4×4 at 8’
- 2 – 4×4 at 14-1/2” – Footboard Legs
- 1 – 2×4 at 78” – Footboard Frame
- 2 – 4×4 at 52-1/2” – Headboard Legs
- 1 – 4×4 at 85” – Headboard Top
- 1 – 2×4 at 78” – Headboard Frame
- 2 – 2×4 at 82” – Frame Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 78” – Slat Supports
- 1 – 2×4 at 78” – Headboard Bottom
- 1 – 1×2 at 84” – Center Support
- 2 – 2×4 at 10” – Center Support Legs
- 1 – 1×4 at 14-1/8” – First Front Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×3 at 42-7/16” – Second Front Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×4 at 47-3/4” – Third Front Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×4 at 47-3/4” – Fourth Front Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×3 at 42-7/16” – Fifth Front Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×4 at 11-5/16” – Sixth Front Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×4 at 19-13/16” – First Back Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×4 at 36-3/4” – Second Back Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×3 at 45-15/16” – Third Back Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×3 at 47-3/4” – Fourth Back Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×4 at 47-3/4” – Fifth Back Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×4 at 47-3/4” – Sixth Back Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×3 at 38-15/16” – Seventh Back Fretwork Piece
- 1 – 1×3 at 12” – Eighth Back Fretwork Piece
- 15 – 1×3 at 79-3/4” – Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut out the Footboard Frame and Footboard Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of the Footboard Frame. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Cut out the Headboard Frame, Headboard Top, and Headboard Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of the Headboard Frame and in the top ends of the Headboard Legs. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the Frame Sides and Slat Supports. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Frame Sides and attach to Headboard Legs and Footboard Legs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Slat Supports to the Frame Sides using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk wood screws, leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the piece for the Headboard Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Headboard Bottom and attach with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the Center Support and Center Support Legs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Center Support and in the top ends of the Center Support Legs. Attach the Center Support Legs to the Center Support as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Center Support to the Headboard Frame and Footboard Frame as shown with 2-1/2” pocket screws. Do not use glue!
Cut the Front Fretwork Pieces. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Front Fretwork Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Cut the Back Fretwork Pieces. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Back Fretwork Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Cut the Slats. Position the Slats on top of the Slat Supports and secure using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Do not use glue!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Showcase
The whole bed project started out with the purchase of a new queen size latex mattress from a local company called Cozy Pure. They have a few locations on the east coast and their beds are simply amazing.
With that being said, we needed a bed frame that used slats instead of a box spring like our previous King Koil mattress. Also worth noting, our previous mattress and box spring was around 30″ tall so we wanted to stick around the same height.
Lastly, we wanted to make a few subtle changes to the overall look. It was more of a last minute idea that popped in my head to make the build a little more manageable for an amateur woodworker like myself.
As stated above, we wanted the bed to be close to 30″ tall like our previous setup. I made some adjustments to the overall height of the headboard and the footboard. I also raised the slat support as well to give additional height to the bed.
From what I can remember off the top of my head:
- 23 – 1×6 tongue and groove boards (4.98/ea) – $115
- 2 – untreated 4x4x8 (9.94/ea) – $20
- 2 – 1x8x8 ($6.64/ea) – $13
- 2 – 1x6x6 (7.25/ea) – $14.50
- 15 – 1x3x6 ($4.21/ea) – $63.50
- 1 – no mortise bed rail – $12.50
- 2 – 1x6x6 (headboard/footboard tops)($7.25/ea) – $14.50
So I’m right under $300 for this bed. I could have saved even more money had I not used the select pine from HD/Lowes but it’s so much nicer to not have to deal with the knots in certain areas. Plus most of the time you have better luck at finding straighter pieces. The major downside is each piece is about twice as much.
Estimated Cost
As stated from above, it was around $300 after the paint, primer and materials. I also purchased the kreg jig which added another $100 to the build but that is a tool that I have fallen in love with.
Needless to say, this bed still cost a fraction of what it would have if I purchased it through a retailer.
Length of Time
Total time was about 2-3 days. The longest part was waiting for the paint and poly to dry. Cutting and setting everything up was straight forward and simple.
Modifications
The bed height was increased, the headboard/footboard material was changed as well. This was simply for aesthetic reasons.
The clearance between the floor and the bed rail is 10″. This will allow for a future build of under bed storage.
I also added a middle slat support under the bed with an additional leg mid-way. This made the bed feel way more rigid and added extra support for the slats. I highly recommend doing this. It’s going to help eliminate any sag in the future.
To add the mid-rail support, just buy (2) 2×4 hurricane ties (at least that is what I have called them) from Lowes or Home Depot ($.97/ea) and a untreated 2×4 ($3/ea) and put it in the middle of the bed rails. Make the mid-rail barely touch the slats. To add the mid-rail leg I just simply used some scrape 1×6 I had and did two offset legs screwed into the 2×4. Nothing fancy but works like a dream.
Lumber Used
This build was all pine. The headboard and footboard is tongue and groove 1x6x8 boards. The posts are untreated 4x4x8 I found from Lowes.
Finishing Technique
I’ll be honest, I’m impatient and finishing is something I need to slow down on as well as become more advanced. We originally thought about doing a stain but quickly changed the idea to paint for simplicity reasons. My fear with the stain was the different types/looks of pine. Some of the wood had knots while some of it did not.
We ended up going with basic latex paint and a poly coat. We really couldn’t find anything online that said whether or not latex was ok to use for this type of project. I guess only time will tell.
Word of advice, if you use the tongue and groove boards, don’t sand mid-way through painting or putting on poly UNLESS you has sanded all of the boards smooth once assembled. I ran into the issue of sanding down the high spots (on accident) after applying multiple coats of paint and poly. It was bound to happen and it was just something I didn’t think about until after I sanded.
I was also using 80 grit on the rough boards, then jumped to 120 grit and finished off with 220. When sanding the poly I used 220 as well but found it kind of worthless in the end. The finished didn’t need to be perfect and I ended up saving time by not sanding the last coat of poly. I would assume this would be more important over a stain but over latex paint it’s fine.
Oh and I used a water based latex. The bed sees a good amount of sun during the day through double windows and oil-based latex turns yellow over time. So thanks to Google, it was advised to use water-based poly.
Only thing I “dislike” or need to address with the bed is the no mortise bed rails. I really dislike them because they aren’t the tightest fit and allow for play (aka the bed can rock a little). I also ended up shimming beside the bed rail hardware (on the inside so you can’t see it) and that helps a little. It could be better but it’s not a deal breaker.
