DIY / Home

Just Add Shelves // Easy DIY Shelving For Stylish Shoe Storage

02.18.15
The Design Confidential DIY Just Add Shelves Easy DIY Shelving For Stylish Shoe Storage

DIY //When the complete and utter gutting of a space is an absolute necessity for your sanity but custom built-ins aren’t an option, you get creative. I suppose saying that built-ins aren’t an option is a slight exaggeration. I mean, this is a DIY blog after all, creative solutions is what we do best here and while we do indeed build things, I have to say the idea of spending hours upon end crafting a custom closet seems entirely unappealing with a 2 year old ruling the roost here at Casa de TDC. At some point along my journey as a mom, I think I began to sacrifice those things I need to feed my soul (I think I’m not alone here), and I’m pretty sure that beautiful and well organized spaces are one of those things that makes my world go round. Also color coded things, but that is a story for another day, eh? When last we left off I had gutted all of the wire shelving on my side of the closet, and made some sleek hanging rods, but not before I updated the lighting from boring recessed cans to fab pendant lights. Now, shoe storage that actually looks good and isn’t a custom built-in, seems a bit more tricky. I suppose if you have shoes you like to look at, then putting them on display with some super simple shelving should be a snap!

To view all projects in this closet case series, in order, check out the articles below to see how far we have come!

Out of the Darkness and Into the Light // Easy Lighting Update

DIY // From Wiry Slobs to Sleek Hanging Rods

Just Add Shelves // Easy DIY Shelving for Stylish Shoe Storage

Closet Case // Don’t Sweat the Small Stuff

Closet Case // Measuring Up and A Bit of Reflection

Materials Needed for The Design Confidential DIY Just Add Shelves Easy DIY Shelving For Stylish Shoe Storage

A while back I purchased a crap ton of the IKEA Ekby Shelves and never actually used them. When I started this cute project, I thought that my procrastination may have actually worked out for the better since they would be perfect for shoes, were affordable in multiples and just happened to work with this grand idea I had in my head. But then, like the Design Schizophrenic that I am, I saw these stunning brackets at Home Depot and thought they would be even more amazing with the white shelves. They come in several sizes and colorways, so if black isn’t your jam, then you have options… And they were like $1.70 each so there is that lovely fact. Of course I used my white and glossy shelves for the surface portion of this, but you could absolutely use any specie of 1×12 board from the lumber section and craft your own warm wood toned modular shelving. It would be so fab! Be sure to use drywall screws (coarse threading) and wall anchors (crazy little plastic things that your screws go into) if you will be mounting anything heavy. To secure the shelves to the top portion of the bracket, you can use some shorter screws or some double sided mounting stickies for a slightly less permanent solution.

Lower Shelf Installation for The Design Confidential DIY Just Add Shelves Easy DIY Shelving For Stylish Shoe Storage

I didn’t do a heck of a lot of complicated thinking for this installation and simply lined up two of my shelves side by side to see if they would fit in width, then eyeballed where I thought they looked best in comparison to the hanging rods. Then I simply used the baseboard as my guide and fastened the brackets directly on top of them.

Second Shelf Install for The Design Confidential DIY Just Add Shelves Easy DIY Shelving For Stylish Shoe Storage

The second shelf is a bit more complicated of course since there is no baseboard to use as a guide. So…. I used my tallest pair of boots to gauge height (very technical), then used the level app on my phone to be sure I wasn’t screwing things up. It seemed to work pretty well so all is right in the world now that I have a place to color code my shoes!

Completed Shelves for The Design Confidential DIY Just Add Shelves Easy DIY Shelving For Stylish Shoe Storage

Honestly I feel like a fashion blogger every single time I walk into this space now. Of course I would probably need an entirely new wardrobe to be such a thing, but I think we are well on our way down the road toward happy success here. Since happiness for me is gauged by how happy a space makes me feel when I walk into it, and if I suddenly want to spend more time in said space, and so far so good! Yahoo

IMAGES // Rayan Turner for The Design Confidential

Design / Home / Shopping

Sources + Details For My Vintage Vixen Family Room

02.16.15

I realize this complete list of sources and details has been a long time coming so I will get right into it and share all of the lovely things for my family room makeover. Of course since I was really only getting this space styled out and decorated for the first time since moving in, it was less of a makeover and more of a make? Or something like that… if you know what I mean. To browse the full reveal, click here, otherwise hang on to your socks folks… because all of the projects and purchases are listed out below in one handy spot for you to reference! Yahoo!

DETAILS + DIY PROJECTS //

My Vintage Vixen Family Room Reveal + Gallery

Removable Marble Wallpaper

Easy + Inexpensive 5 Minute DIY Fabric Trim

My Houseplants Bring All The Boys To The Yard

NOTE // There are quite a few items listed for the sources below that I am still trying to find links for, so if something is listed and not linked, stay tuned because I shall find the proper link and update this list as I do!

FURNISHINGS //

Sofa with Chaise / Room + Board

Leather Loveseat / Vintage from Craigslist

White Leather Club Chair / Wayfair

Mid Century Dresser / Vintage from Denio’s

Large Black Trunks / Vintage from Denio’s

Low Black Trunk / Vintage Inherited

Deco Glam Coffee Table / Vintage from Craigslist

Deco Glam Console Table / Vintage from Craigslist

Expedit Shelving as Console Table / IKEA

White Media Cabinet / IKEA

Navy Ceramic Stool / HomeGoods

FIXTURES //

Hanging Wood + Brass Light Fixture / Vintage from Snowline Hospice Folsom

Floor Lamp / Target

Oversized Yellow Ceramic Table Lamps / Vintage from Craigslist

Himalayan Salt Lamp / Target

Curtain Rods / Industrial Plumbing DIY with Parts from Home Depot

Switch Plates / Adorne by Legrand

ACCESSORIES + DECOR //

Rug / Rugs USA

Curtains / Nate Berkus for Target

Large Ceramic Pot in Mint / HomeGoods

Small Ceramic Pot in Blue / HomeGoods

Small Ceramic Pot in White / HomeGoods

Large Brass Pot / Vintage from Snowline Hospice Folsom

Small Brass Pot / Vintage from Snowline Hospice Folsom

Medium Copper Pot / Smith + Hawken for Target

Large Baskets Various / Target / HomeGoods / Vintage from Snowline Hospice

Moroccan Pouf / Nate Berkus for Target

Teal Trunk / Vintage Inherited

White Deco Round Vase / Vintage from Snowline Hospice Folsom

Small Black Cat / Vintage Perfume Bottle from Snowline Hospice Cameron Park

Brass Elephant / Vintage from Denio’s

Brass Birds / Vintage from Denio’s

Cholla Skeleton / Denio’s

Acacia Wood Tray / Target

Mint Photo Box / Martha Stewart for Avery

Acacia Wood Vases / Target

Black Sculptural Fruit Bowl / Dot + Bo

FRAMED ART + WALL DECOR //

Graphic Black and White Print / Society 6

Black and White Print Water and Rocks / HomeGoods

Black and White Print of Stormy Ocean Waves / Vintage from Snowline Hospice

Fiber Art / Vintage from Snowline Hospice

PILLOWS + THROWS //

Kilim Pillow / One Kings Lane

Moroccan Pillow / Nate Berkus for Target

Tie Dye Pillow / Threshold for Target

Red White Embroidered Pillow / HomeGoods

Gray Yellow Embroidered Pillow / Target

Geometric Pattern Pillows / HomeGoods

Faux Fur Throw / H&M

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table

02.15.15
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table via @thedesconf

The versatility of this adorable rolling cart table is just lovely! Use it as a bar cart, or rolling utility cart, even a side table and this gal will look fabulous no matter how you choose to put her to work.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table via @thedesconf
$50-$75
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table via @thedesconf
  • 1 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 2’x4’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/2” x18-1/2” – Upper and Lower Trays
  • 4 – 1×2 at 20” – Upper and Lower Tray Fronts and Backs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 14” – Upper and Lower Tray Sides
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 4-1/4” – Bottom Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 14-1/4” – Middle Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 3-1/4” – Top Posts

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Trays. Mark the locations of the Posts as shown (on the top side and bottom side of each Tray). With a 1-1/2” Spade Bit, drill a hole at each location approximately 1/4” inch deep. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger than the 1-1/2” Post. Repeat this step twice – once for the Upper Tray and once for the Lower Tray.

Upper and Lower Trays:

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Fronts, Backs, and Sides. Attach the Upper Front, Back, and Sides to the Upper Tray as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat this process for the Lower Tray. If you want a more rounded appearance for the corners of your trays, get out your sander and sand away!

Shown: Tray Top then Tray Bottom

Cut the pieces for the Posts. Each Post will be composed of 3 pieces, but assembled in the Cart, will give the illusion of one long piece. For the Bottom Post, mark the center of the Post. Using an appropriately sized Spade Bit, drill a hole slightly larger (we are using a 3/8” Spade Bit for our specific Caster) and longer (approximately 1” deep for our specific Caster) than the stem of the Caster you are using. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger and longer than the stem of the Caster.

Next, insert the stem of the Caster into the Lower Post – repeat for each Bottom Post. The stem should fit very snug in the drilled hole. If it is a little looser than you would like, place a little glue into the drilled hole, reinsert the stem and let the glue set.

Next, place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Lower Tray. Place the Bottom Posts (with inserted Casters) into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Lower Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Upper Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Upper Tray. Place the Top Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole. If you want a more rounded appearance for the edges of the Top Posts, get out your sander and sand away!

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

DIY / Home

DIY // From Wiry Slobs to Sleek Hanging Rods

02.13.15
Easy DIY from The Design Confidential for Sleek Hanging Closet Rods

Sorry for the radio silence my sweet friends… it was D-Day for the wisdom teeth removal and I was a complete loony toon in a crazy amount of pain there for a bit. I am still a loony toon (thank you pain meds) but at least now I can move my fingers without fear that it will hurt my face, so we can return to some of our regularly scheduled fun!

This project probably lets the cat out of the bag on what I have been working on, but yahoo, a major closet overhaul is under way and it is looking mighty fine so far! Like – damn girl, you fiiiine – kind of fine, which is perhaps appropriate given our impending heart shaped holiday? There are a dozen and one projects on the web for creating hanging coat racks, closet rods, and other awesome but similar things. Rather than jumping right onto that bandwagon and giving you my take on the same sort of thing (same, same only different – as they say in the East), I thought I would give you more of a recounting of the materials I chose and why, where you can find them, along with some tips (that I learned the hard way of course) for doing this successfully and in a way that will work for real people with real wardrobes. Not that I don't look longingly at those other DIY project beauties, with their 5 items hanging on them, because I do… they are so good-looking with only 5 items hanging from those cute minimal rods with all of the items only in black or beige. Oh to be that gal, am I right? But of course, I'm not, and you probably aren't, and in fact they might not be either and might just pull out the rest of their clothes once the photoshoot is over… so I guess in a round about way, this is a project for all of us while we daydream about being all of them, who may not even be 'them' in real life, and who clearly don't have children climbing the walls and swinging from your favorite sweater while you race to get the remaining items hung. Le Sigh.

Materials Needed for Easy DIY from The Design Confidential for Sleek Hanging Closet Rods

Let's talk turkey… or paracord, whatever – same diff. The materials I used for my sexy sleek hanging rods cost around $30 to make 2. This price goes down for each additional pair of rods you plan to make since some of the items allow for multiple rod making.The most expensive item on this very small list is definitely the hooks. They run about $6 per hook for a swiveling ceiling driller toggle hook that is rated for holding at least 50 pounds and preferably 90 pounds. Just consider what you will hang on your rod and purchase accordingly. This is where the cost will add up since you need 2 per hanging rod (duh), but is quite frankly the lynch pin for the success (or failure) of this project. If your ceiling is made of drywall, which for 99% of you is definitely the case, and if you plan on hanging real clothing from your rods, which 99% of you probably do, then you need these hooks to be heavy duty and have this toggle bolt functionality to be as secure as possible. The braided cord is actually very inexpensive and comes in a fun assortment of neon colors as well as some basics like white or black. Now the item I chose to use for the rod portion is indeed actually a closet rod and is adjustable in length which means that when you purchase it, it comes in a package with two separate rod pieces so you can essentially buy one package and get 2 rods from it. You will need to remove a screw at the ends (where the rods would connect if you were using this traditionally) and otherwise there is no cutting, painting, or drilling involved with this project whatsoever. This is always a yahoo in my book because this means that the project will come together quickly and easily – as in – under 5 to 10 minutes maximum to whip this together quickly, kind of quickly… ha. Of course you can use many different things for the rod portion, like copper or steel and even a dowel would work so get creative if you like.

I created one big loop of rope that I threaded through the rod looped over the hooks. To secure the ends of this big loop together I simply tied 3 knots and then cut a separate piece about 12 inches long and made a gathering wrap to sit over the top of this. Then I got to play with fire for a bit and used a lighter to melt the cord at the ends as well as around the gathering wrap so I felt extra sure that baby was nice and secure. I let that knot sit inside the rod to hide it.

Sloppy Closet Before Makeover for Easy DIY from The Design Confidential for Sleek Hanging Closet Rods

So now that you know what I used for this project, let's take a peak back to the beginning and gaze at my wiry slobs (the before shot).

The hardest thing about planning for this space and in deciding to completely gut it and start from scratch in here, was coming to the realization that even though there was a crap ton of completely functional wire shelving in here, that it was not being used well. I have lived with it for 2 years now and kept thinking that the problem was me, and the busy life I lead (which is partly true, to be sure). I had plenty of space to hang things, plus a ton of surface space and shelving for the clothing that will be folded. But, when you are using shelves to store your folded stuff instead of drawers, this inevitably means that the minute you are in a hurry and can't find something, you make a complete and utter crazy mess of things. That is a losing battle, because it means my closet looks like the image above virtually all of the time. Not to mention that when Mike does the laundry and puts things away, he gets completely confused about how to sort things since items like tops (at least for us gals) should be sorted by purpose to keep the stacks from getting too high. Who can blame him, this is a very specific type of organizing that most people find impossible to do for someone else.

Completely Gutted Closet for Easy DIY from The Design Confidential for Sleek Hanging Closet Rods

It is pretty difficult to make the decision to get rid of things that should, in theory, be working beautifully, but just aren't. For a gal like me who feeds off of functionality and hates to spend money on things that I don't really need, this was initially a painful 'coming to terms' decision. If it isn't broken, then why try to fix it, am I right? But once I decided to take a good look at this space and try to figure out what on earth it needed to make it better, I was able to see that ven though it wasn't technically broken (physically), it was still in fact actually broken (mentally perhaps) because it wasn't working, for me.

Once I have this sort of light bulb moment, it's on like donkey kong and I embrace change like a champ. If it means the possibility for improvement, then I am all for it. The Mister, on the other hand, apparently hates change (who knew? certainly not me until this project came along) and takes much longer to warm up to an idea. Removing all of the functional and plentiful wire shelving and rods, it appears, is one of those things he doesn't find easy to jump on board with. Subsequently, I started this project on my side, and he has been able to warm up to all of the possibilities, by seeing the actual changes as they unfold – on my side.

Simplified and Streamlined Closet for Easy DIY from The Design Confidential for Sleek Hanging Closet Rods

And so… this closet was entirely gutted – on my side (3 walls) – and where there was once chaos, now there is utter beauty and simplicity. My original inspiration came from a recent shopping trip to HomeGoods, where I stumbled upon a gorgeous selection of velvet hangers. I thought to myself… I love when all the hangers are the same, and everything is awesome… and great (a little Lego Movie throw back). In that moment the seeds of change were planted and a simplified wardrobe and lifestyle were born. I purchased 100 of these velvet hangers (4 packs of 25) and decided that Mike and I would each get 50, and have no choice but to slim down our wardrobes accordingly. No exceptions. And of course, if we could streamline our hanging items and cut them down below our individual limit of 50 hangers, well that would be a lovely bonus as it would greatly simplify and reduce the number of things we have to launder and put away each week. Win, win.

I took a fine tooth comb to my clothing and forced myself to part most of those things I have been hanging on to for far too long. Turns out hanging onto things for the possibility of needing those things at some point in the future is not all it's cracked up to be. Having so much of this type excess was weighing me down. I cut myself some slack throughout this process and allowed myself to keep some of these items that were particularly hard to part with, and gave myself time to come to terms with giving up those little bits of my past life. I think this left me the space I needed to mentally deal with moving on from my youth and into a more current version of me. As I have been forced over the last couple of weeks to take the time to hang these items and watch my once light and loosely packed rods become full and cramped, it has become much easier to part with these pieces of my former self. I have definitely embraced this new found simplified life, wholeheartedly. It seems to be the good life, so far, and I haven't once looked back in regret at donating those someday pieces. Just wait till you see the other areas I worked over in this space. Can we say, downright skimpy? Yes we can – but in a good way of course…

To view all projects in this closet case series, in order, check out the articles below to see how far we have come!

Out of the Darkness and Into the Light // Easy Lighting Update

DIY // From Wiry Slobs to Sleek Hanging Rods

Just Add Shelves // Easy DIY Shelving for Stylish Shoe Storage

Closet Case // Don't Sweat the Small Stuff

Closet Case // Measuring Up and A Bit of Reflection

IMAGES // Rayan Turner for The Design Confidential

Home / Shopping

My House Plants Bring All The Boys To The Yard

02.05.15

If you have been around here for a while, you might have caught on to the fact that I adore styling and designing with house plants. Every single space in my home has plants and I can promise you that if there is a flat surface to be found, I'm very likely going to put a plant on it. I think they are the finishing touch in a space and bring so much life and energy to a room. But, I have a dirty little secret – I am a certified plant killer – through and through… and yet my house plants still bring all the boys to the yard – I could teach you but I'd have to charge (reference). So what gives, you ask? What if you have a black thumb and can hardly keep your kids alive, let alone your plants, you ask? Not to worry, I got you.

This black thumb wearing mama will let you in on her tried and true tips, tricks and tells for the top 8 indoor house plants you probably won't kill immediately… and that aren't succulents. I have actually croaked more succulents than any other plant around – cuz I'm a serious serial plant killer like that and neglect is my middle name.

With the entirety of the interwebs all abuzz over indoor plants, and of course the beloved fiddle leaf fig showcased in virtually every design blogger's home from here to Timbuktu, I figure those of you who also have black thumbs might benefit from a few tidbits I have learned over the past few years for keeping big impact, beautiful, indoor plants alive longer than five minutes. Having to replace every single plant every time I finish decorating a space was getting costly and time consuming, so I figured it was high time I learn a thing or two so that I can keep adding to my collection of beauties rather than dealing with a death every couple of weeks. I wish I got it together many moons ago because there might have been a few additional survivors over the years, but alas it has taken a lot of trial and error to find my sweet spot with each plant, mostly error there for a while.

So without further ado, I give you a list of plants that have hung in there with me through thick and thin, till death do us part – minus the whole death thing, of course. As with any 'best of' type of list, especially where living things are concerned, there will always be the possibility of an exception to the rule, regional variation and availability issues, and the occasional (hopefully) fluke where disease or a pestilence problem may exist and cause the sudden or unexpected untimely death of your precious flora. Aside from that rare (hopefully) set of possibilities, this list of plants should be wildly successful for the vast majority and easily able to hang out on Survivor Island with you.

The list below has been determined by hardiness (both situational and user error survivability) as well as the relative ease that a person can read the plant's 'tell'. At the end of the day, if you can't tell there is a problem, or what that problem is, then you will have a much more costly and frustrating trial and error phase.

1 // MAHOGANY TREEBig and beautiful, this tree likes a tall drink of water, so those of you who love your plants to death – literally – this may be ideal for you. It is unlikely you will have to worry about this plants needs getting lost in translation since it has a very obvious tell when an adjustment to your plant care routine is needed and the leaves begin to droop and look very sad when it's parched. In extreme situations and severe lack of water (a.k.a. neglect, which I am guilty of quite often) the leaves may turn yellow and fall off. With a quick and ample watering to rectify things, this beauty will bounce right back like nothing ever happened.

-Seen here and here

2 // SCHEFFLERA A large tree sized tree or a great and glorious potted plant depending on which variety you go with. I have both which you can see here and here. Often times indoor trees begin as small shrubs and must work their way toward glorious treedom (totally a thing) but this fab specimen can be found for a decent price in an already decent size making this a good candidate for our list right of the bat. Instant gratification in terms of size, visual weight / substance and the ability to replace without selling a kidney are definitely helpful, but this species (regardless of the variety) is also pretty hardy. The plants even more so than the tree as they seem to manage many situations and circumstances with nothing more than a bit of a droop when they are thirsty, but I am still working toward perfecting my plant care regimen for the big guy (tree). So far he seems to withstand both neglect and the 'makeup' watering action that tends to happen once I rebound from said neglect and has even managed to hang in there with the overabundance of light in my kitchen nook. Though this tree has mentioned to me on more than one occasion, through some relatively colorful words (yellowing and sad leaves), that it doesn't prefer to be in direct line of my heating vents. This could be because of the drying affect the heater has or perhaps a bit of animosity for the old dust mite. Either way, something to consider if yours begins to act up is that you might try relocating him within your home.

-Seen here, here, and here

3 // DIEFFENBACHIAMy fave is the Camouflage variety, but I have both and they are visually big, beautiful, and easy to care for. My Splash took a hot minute to adjust to the surroundings and find it's groove, but once I remembered I needed to water it occasionally (I ignored her for a couple months when I first brought her home – oops!), it now thrives with the random and occasionally waterings from leftover drink glasses that we happen to have upstairs (I know this sounds a tad icky, but t I like to keep it real, and this seems to work for me). My Camo beauty is steady and constant. She likes a weekly watering, especially in the summer months and both varieties will have a leaf turn yellow or wither when they are angry and deprived, but this is a great reminder for me and so I appreciate that. Even if it means they are sometimes sad seeming for a brief moment in time…

-Seen here

4 // POTHOSMy Goldens thrive like mad and are perfect for hanging or draping over the side of a surface. They like their water and are hardy even when they don't get their way. The leaves start to look a little sad when they are parched and if pushed to extremes may have several turn yellow then brown and wither, but the plants bounce back from the trauma quite well and you can simply pull the dead stuff off and no one will be the wiser. My Marbled Queen is awesome looking but has suffered a few tragic setbacks and consequently survives but doesn't thrive. I have yet to determine if this variety has different needs than the Goldens (which is a definite possibility even though they are related) or if I simply pushed it too far beyond the brink and it is struggling to return to full capacity. I will keep you posted.

-Seen here, here and here

5 // SANSEVIERIA SNAKE PLANTThis is one of those plants that is hard to kill – which is why it is on the list. I can't say that I have it's preferred plant care regimen figured out yet because mine isn't necessarily thriving, but I can say that this plant has survived through both neglect and perhaps the occasional bout of too much love. I figure this to be a good thing, suggests it's relative hardiness and should cover those of you who bounce between the two problematic behaviors – like me – or happen to favor one of these killing methods or the other.

6 // RUBBER TREE I have a few of these, my favorite is the variegated one you see in the top image of this article. The darker burgundy variety I have (seen here) is the most hardy plant I have by far. It never complains, and only bounces between happy or content depending of my level of plant care. The variegated variety I have is certainly a bit more picky and has a very obvious tell with majorly drooping leaves for several days following a good watering. But neither have ever lost a leaf or even shown discoloration during adverse situations, so I say yahoo to that.

-Seen here, here, here and here

7 // SHIELD OR PLUM ARALIAA tad finiky where watering is concerned and doesn't like to be forgotten entirely but he will kindly let you know how he is feeling with a bit of the old changing of the leaves (yellow then withering and falling off when you really screw things up). All in all a relatively forgiving plant with a big show of dark green and burgundy leaves and stems, this guy provides decent bang for your buck.

-Seen here

8 // PHILODENDRONEasy as can be and an obvious tell when parched with yellowing leaves, but utterly resilient and easy to please. Big bold leaves and a feminine tropical look making this plant a great companion plant to any space that needs a bit of softening without getting overly mushy – if you know what I mean.

-Seen here (on my kitchen counter in the background of the 7th shot)

Phew, lot's of words… but of course I have a few more that may help you tremendously (helped me a ton)… Behold my tips and tricks for house plants in general. This isn't specific to any one variety, and definitely applies to every plant listed above.

1 // IT'S VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO ACTUALLY OVER WATER A PLANT – That isn't to say that too much water can't be detrimental, but if your plant seems waterlogged or is suffering from root rot, it is more likely an issue of your soil not having proper drainage and / or sitting up too high on the stalk or stem. Your water should run out the bottom of your pot with ease and if it is draining properly, over-watering will likely only ever result in a less than happy little friend, but shouldn't result in a whole lot more.

2 // PLANTS LIKE TO BE PLANTED – This may sound like an obvious statement, but hear me out. Almost every plant that exists will prefer to be in soil that is loose-ish, rather than the tightly wound root ball they come in, and actually planted in a pot with decent soil and a bit of room for it to spread out, grow and breath – which means the pot you transfer it into should be slightly bigger than the pot it comes in.

3 // PLANTS LIKE A BATH EVERY NOW AND THEN – For most plants this simply means they benefit from having their leaves and stem given a good rinse. This cleans the dust off and helps to rinse away any mites or other bugs that might attempt to move in on an otherwise undisturbed leafy locale. If your plant is small enough, you can turn it slightly on it's side and give the leaves and stem a nice rinse with your kitchen sprayer. For the larger beauties, a spray bottle and towel do the job pretty well.

4 // YELLOWING LEAVES DO NOT MEAN OVER WATERING – I'm not sure where along the lines I was told that yellowing leaves mean too much water, but I can certainly attest to having been told this very thing on more than one occasion. In fact this bit of misinformation alone is the likely culprit of many an untimely death to my plantings. For more info on this, see Tip 1, and then refer to each of the plants above and their particular 'tells'. My personal experience is that every single plant I have that has a yellowing of leaves at any point, is actually being under watered (not to be mistaken for underwater, which would indeed be problematic). I can't speak to every plant under the sun, but with this list of plants, you can be fairly certain that yellow leaves equals not enough water.

5 // PLANTS DO NOT LIKE TO EAT WHEN THEY ARE SICK – Just like many humans, giving your plants vitamins every so often may be a good thing, but also like humans, if your plant is sick and suffering from some sort of something (like that time you forgot to water it for 2 months), giving it an extra dose of vitamins may be hard for it to stomach and may actually do more harm than good. An easy rule of thumb is to think of plant food as being more like a heavy duty prenatal vitamin and less like a medicine to help with an illness. You can give them plant food about once a quarter or so and only when they are doing well and happy. Also, if you never remember to do this at all, they will still survive just the same.

That is it, that is all she wrote – literally – and I hope this list of tidbits helps you keep your indoor plants alive and maybe even thriving. I am going on several years worth of green leafy glory with those plants shown above and I will be testing out a few new beauties over the next several months. I will keep you posted with my success (or failure) and would love to hear any of your flora faves. Do you have any tried and true tips for growing and maintaining your greenery? Do tell… This mama needs all of the input she can get, and I'm sure I'm not alone!

Entertaining / Studio

The Smoking Gun // A Cocktail Recipe that Packs Some Heat

02.04.15
The Design Confidential x Bernzomatic | The Smoking Gun Cocktail Recipe

If you have ever wanted to turn up the heat on your cocktail game, with a few safety precautions… just in case… it is much easier than you might think. It will definitely take your mixology to the next level.

I give you my latest cocktail creation, made specifically for the use of my fave Bernzomatic Micro Torch and a fabulous intro into the world of Flammable Cocktails. For a Bourbon based cocktail, see my Damrell’s Fire recipe. The tutorial for making your own copper rimmed nesting platters can be found here.

INGREDIENTS + MATERIALS //

Bernzomatic 3-in1- Multi Torch + Butane

1 Oz Coffee Liqueur

1 Oz Vodka

2 Oz Half + Half

6 Oz Club Soda

1 Tbsp Amaretto Liqueur

Dash of Cinnamon

The Design Confidential x Bernzomatic | The Smoking Gun Cocktail Recipe

DIRECTIONS //

Fill a Double Old Fashioned glass with ice.

Pour in 1 oz Coffee Liqueur, 1 oz Vodka, and 2 oz Half + Half. Fill most of the remainder of your glass with club soda, leaving ¼ inch to spare. Sprinkle a generous amount of cinnamon on top but do not mix.

Slowly add a float of Amaretto by pouring ½-1oz of Amaretto over the back of a spoon near the edge of your glass. This will help spread the Amaretto and keep it light which will help it remain near the top of your drink.

Using your Bernzomatic Torch, carefully light your Amaretto float and run your flame over the cinnamon to lightly toast. Watch it become your smoking gun.

TIP // Ensure your work area is free of excess alcohol and any other potentially flammable items before you ignite your torch. Take all safety precautions when playing with fire. Burning down your house, for the sake of a fabulous drink experience, would be a terrible idea.

This recipe was created in partnership with Bernzomatic and is part of an ongoing series of projects here on ‘le blog’. Thank you for supporting the awesome-sauce brands that help bring fresh and fun new projects like this to The Design Confidential. I heart you guys!

Showcase

Builders Showcase // Ashley’s Pair of Reef Outdoor Loveseats

02.03.15
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Ashleys Pair of Reef Outdoor Loveseats

Dear Mother Nature, I know we need rain to help cure this ridiculous drought we are having here in California and because Mama needs to play in the water during those crazy hot days of summer, but I wouldn’t be mad at you if you skipped right ahead on into spring and the gorgeous mild weather it brings before the heat sets in. Oh wait… I think you may have been one step ahead of me and you already got this covered. It is so beautiful here in the hills just outside of Sacramento, and that’s a good thing, because this gorgeous showcase Ashley shared with us on instagram (using the hashtag #builtTDCtuff) would really bum me out if it were dreary and miserable. Of course I mean that in the most loving ‘good for you’ but ya it ‘sucks for me’ kind of proud mama way that I feel every time one of you amazing folks rocks out a stunning showcase!

The backyard is on my hit list for this year’s ‘renovation or bust’ resolution I have and I am completely inspired by the incredible hard work they did to make their outdoor living space so effing fabulous!

Here is what she says…

Modified the reef sofa plans to be loveseats. Thanks for the plans. Coffee table built by scraps I had lying around. Cushions are from Target and fit perfectly!

Yes they do! Love the color too. Xx… Rayan

If you have built from our plans here at The Design Confidential, we would love to showcase your build! You can post a showcase here on the site once you register as a member, or post to social media and tag @thedesignconfidential on FB and Instagram or @thedesconf on Twitter or Pinterest and be sure to use the hashtag #builtTDCtuff! Yahoo

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Mei Freestanding Towel Rack

02.02.15
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mei Freestanding Towel Stand via @thedesconf

I am kinda obsessed with crossing things off my list, and this set of woodworking plans will do precisely that. We have an awkward setup for our shower and bath where both units sit a bit too far away from the nearest towel bar and both units are surrounded by tile so installing an additional rack in a more ideal location is, well, less than ideal. This means we ultimately set our towels on the nearest surface and naturally this results in a slightly wet towel for drying off. In the warmer months this isn’t as much of a big deal, unless it causes those cute towels to mildew. In the colder months around these parts, having to choose between walking to retrieve your towel while wet and cold or using a wet towel to dry off from the wet and cold, makes me moderately insane. Like the eye twitching kind of insanity… naturally. I don’t know why builders don’t consider these things when they plan out a home, but luckily there is a solution to this within these project plans for this freestanding towel rack. Yahoo!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mei Freestanding Towel Stand via @thedesconf
$25-$50
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mei Freestanding Towel Stand via @thedesconf

 

 

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1×10 at 8’
  • 1 – 3/8” Wooden Dowel Rod at 8’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4” – Base Sides
  • 1 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Base Back
  • 6 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Slats
  • 2 – 1×10 at 42” – Sides
  • 1 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Crossbar
  • 3 – 3/8 Wooden Dowels at 23” – Towel Rods

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the Base Sides and Base Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Base Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Slats. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Slats. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Next, cut the pieces for the Sides. The arc shape for the Side will begin 2” from the bottom of the 1×10. Draw an arc shape as shown. In the image we have a 134” radius arc and a 135” radius arc. You don’t have to make this exact arc – what is really important is that it is a gentle curve that takes up most of the width of the 1×10.

Next, mark a horizontal line 2” from the top of the 1×10, then another line 8” down from the previous line, and then a final line 8” from the second line – these lines will note the locations for the ends of the Towel Rods. With a 1/2” spade bit, drill approximately 1/4” deep at the center of the 3 locations specified. Repeat this process on your second Side, but as a “mirror image,” so that each Side will arc the same way with holes facing the inside of the Towel Stand. Using your jigsaw, cut out the shape in the diagram. Apply edge banding to the edges of each Side if desired. Assemble to the Base Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Crossbar. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Crossbar. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Towel Rods. Before assembly, paint the Towel Rods a metallic color to look like real metal. Position each Rod into the pair of drilled holes. Assemble as shown with glue and clamp until dry.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

DIY

DIY // Neon Acrylic Typography

02.01.15
The Design Confidential DIY // Neon Acrylic Lucite Typography Art Installation

As I have been slowly chipping away at my office space, and stripping away most of the chaos, clutter, and consequently much of the color, I am realizing just how much I still need a jolt of happy bright color here and there to stay inspired and creative. It’s funny what you learn about yourself when you remove things from your life. I am working on a very special side project at the moment and it is fast moving from beginning to end so organization is absolutely crucial for my sanity right now. This means keeping everything I need at arms length and yet completely out of site so it isn’t distracting. Last month for the Michael’s Makers Challenge it was all about containing the chaos and curbing the stress. The storage solutions I created have been absolutely life saving these days, so when we were given the challenge of personalizing some of the items from the MAKE Market line, it seemed only fitting that I continue on that path of good looking storage solutions and organizational items, and yet instead I thought it would be mighty nice to create something that is fun and pretty to enjoy while I am slaving away in the hamster wheel of a DIY life.

The Design Confidential DIY // Neon Acrylic Lucite Typography Art Installation

The MAKE Market line is literally bursting at the seams with letters and decorative pieces that you can put your own personal stamp on. In true to me fashion… amongst all of the black, white, gold and neutral that surrounds me on a daily basis- I chose to add a little neon to my world. This project can really be done with any color under the sun, so if neon isn’t your thing – go for gold, or blue.

MATERIALS //

  • Acrylic Letters
  • All Surface Craft Paint, Spray Paint, or Chalk Paint
  • Sealant – optional for delicate or thin paint. Mod Podge would work beautifully.
  • Foam Brush – if using acrylic paint
  • Epoxy – optional for securing the letters together for each word
The Design Confidential DIY // Neon Acrylic Lucite Typography Art Installation

Spray or paint the backside of each letter. This will mean choosing a side for letters that aren’t directional (like O or T) and flipping the directional letters over so they are facing the wrong way (like C or P). Build up the color with thin layers of paint. Let dry completely, and if your paint is delicate, consider giving it a bit of a sealer coat.

The Design Confidential DIY // Neon Acrylic Lucite Typography Art Installation

When you are finished adding color to your letters, you can set, hang or fasten together to form words. If you choose to secure together the letters for a word (helpful when you have roundy letters like O or C), use a heavy duty glue that states it will work with plastic.

I haven’t decided if I will hang these pieces or let them lie on a nearby surface. Either would make me happy and I love how these look exactly as if they were made from neon acrylic.

This collection of surfaces, letters, frames and more come in modern, eclectic or rustic styles. From natural and finished woods, to a variety of metals, resin and patterned styles, the possibilities are endless.

If you don’t know where to begin, you can always take a look at some of the fun projects on Michaels.com or the other 49 Makers’ ideas on The Glue String for to see how they personalized their crafts!

An InLinkz Link-up

Entertaining / Featured / Studio

Damrell’s Fire // A Smoldering Cocktail Recipe

01.31.15
The Design Confidential x Bernzomatic | Damrells Fire Cocktail Recipe using Blow Torch

Have you ever wondered how you might turn up the heat on your cocktail game? With a few safety precautions… just in case… it turned out to be much easier than I thought it would be, and a fun way to take my mixology to the next level.

I give you my latest cocktail creation, made specifically for the use of my fave Bernzomatic Micro Torch and a fabulous intro into the world of Bourbon.

DAMRELL’S FIRE

A modern take on an old Classic – The Boston Sour

INGREDIENTS + MATERIALS //

ST500T 3-in-1 Micro Torch

Butane

3 Oz Bourbon

2 Oz Fresh Lemon Juice

2 Oz Simple Syrup

1 Tbsp of Egg White

1 Tbsp Limoncello

1 Lemon for Garnish

The Design Confidential x Bernzomatic | Damrells Fire Cocktail Recipe using Blow Torch

DIRECTIONS //

Using a shaker, add Bourbon, lemon juice, simple syrup and egg white along with ice. Shake well and strain into a cocktail coupe or double old fashioned. Add a float of Limoncello, pouring slowly over the back of a spoon so that it stays on the surface of your drink. Carefully light with your Bernzomatic Micro Torch and extinguish any flame after a few seconds. Garnish with a lemon slice and enjoy.

TIP // Ensure your work area is free of excess alcohol and any other potentially flammable items before you ignite your torch. Take all safety precautions when playing with fire. Burning down your house, for the sake of a fabulous drink experience, would be a terrible idea.

This recipe was created in partnership with Bernzomatic and is part of an ongoing series of projects here on ‘le blog’. Thank you for supporting the awesome-sauce brands that help bring fresh and fun new projects like this to The Design Confidential. I heart you guys!

DIY / Home

Out of the Darkness and Into the Light // Easy Lighting Update

01.30.15

From dim witted recessed can lighting to bright shining modern pendant light fixture in two easy steps… true story…. This is by far one of the easiest and fastest updates I have done to date, but what a huge impact it has had. It’s funny how you can let something that is completely functional go entirely overlooked (because duh, it’s working just fine). When you decide to take things up a notch and give these bland but functional pieces a new look to suit a new space, it rocks your world and gets you thinking about all of the other easy updates you might do to bring your other spaces out of the darkness and into the light.

For me, recessed can lighting falls in the category of ‘works just fine’ (assuming the bulb hasn’t burned out of course, because prior to LED bulb invention this would be a major pain in the you know what for a gal of not so epic proportions) so if it ain’t broke… why should I bother thinking about it at all, forever and ever, amen. Am I right?

Now boob lights on the other hand are an entirely different story and it is my goal to eradicate this atrocity from the world, or at least my world… you can keep your boob lights if you want to.

But lighting is such a crucial element in a space, especially if that space were to revolve around helping you figure out how you look, which in this case is definitely how the story goes. So I have been slowly trying to go through each room to replace all of my bulbs with LED bulbs (so I can never ever worry about changing them again… have I mentioned my procrastinating tendencies?) and adjust the color of the light for the particular space and how it is used. Just look at how pleasant the difference is above, it is almost night and day… literally… since the former bulb took 15 minutes to warm up and get going before it would actually light the space – the Cree LED Bulbs do not and are fully lit instantly. Another big (no, huge actually) yahoo on that front.

This space will be used as a dressing room and will be retrofitted somewhat so I can put on makeup more easily than I can at my bathroom counter. Where makeup is concerned, overhead fluorescent-like (read… weird sickly shade of blue) lighting is your enemy which means that the two bulbs for the recessed can lights in this space would need to be something more in the daylight spectrum and very likely joined by additional lighting at face level anyhow. Once that occurred to me, it seemed to mentally give me the push I needed to make these functional fixtures a bit more beautiful and, well, functional… and so I did. A light bulb moment, if you will. These fabulous finds can be found at the Home Depot and are incredibly affordable. I think they were around $5 each and since they last for somewhere around 20 years, I think even my penny pinching self can manage that.

Replacing the bulb was a snap and since the Cree LED bulbs are well, duh, LED, they run cool which is fabulous especially when you are trying to add a decorative shade to the fixture and must sit in close range of this thing for more than a minute. And ya, I needed to do the second portion of this project with the lights on since otherwise this room is essentially pitch black (ok slight exaggeration there, but it is really really dark). Just changing the bulbs made such a big impact on it’s own, but of course this story is all about adding those less than obvious little details to give a boring fixture some style so…. you will need a few additional items for this fast update to transpire.

Now for the easiest thing you ever did see. Buy a drum shade you adore that has the 3 arm lamp ring like you see above, mine is from Ikea and has a copper lining on the inside with a cutaway pattern throughout. This will help with the darkening affect that adding a lamp shade to a light fixture can have. You will also need hooks that swivel so they can be used to hang things from the ceiling. The hooks I used are command hooks from 3M and so they simply stick on and remove easily so no holes to fill if you switch back to basic can lights later.

I prepped my hooks by putting the sticky thing on, but I did not uncover the side that will stick to the ceiling for fear I would stick it to something accidentally in the process of getting up the ladder. If you notice the hook placement in the image below, you will see that they ultimately came to rest about 1 1/2 inches in from the outside edge of the lamp shade ring. This was the ideal spot for the hooks to rest since my lamp shade ring arms sit at a slight angle and slope downward from the edge of the ring toward the middle. If your ring is flat, you can place the hooks wherever you like, but somewhere inside of the edge is best so you can’t see them!

I found that everything seems to hold nicely if each hook is holding the arm at the edge of it’s reach, rather than with the hook straight up and down. This just makes sure everything is secure and keeps it from sliding in any one direction causing it to be slightly off center. To do this you would secure one hook and then rotate your shade just a tiny bit so your hook swivels and is holding the shade at the edge of that cute little hook’s reach. But, not going to be a deal breaker my friends, just a nifty little thing. Now here is the one single solitary tricky part of this (and I am joking clearly because you will see how not tricky it is)… you will want to have 2 out of the 3 hooks face toward each other (or away from each other, either way). This just keeps the hooks from swiveling in tandem if they were all facing the same direction, and letting your shade fall off. So 2 hooks inward toward each other (or away from each other and back to back) and the 3rd hook can do whatever you please. That is it. Donzo…

To view all projects in this closet case series, in order, check out the articles below to see how far we have come!

Out of the Darkness and Into the Light // Easy Lighting Update

DIY // From Wiry Slobs to Sleek Hanging Rods

Just Add Shelves // Easy DIY Shelving for Stylish Shoe Storage

Closet Case // Don’t Sweat the Small Stuff

Closet Case // Measuring Up and A Bit of Reflection

IMAGES // Rayan Turner for The Design Confidential

This project was brought to you in partnership with Cree. Thank you for supporting the awesome-sauce brands and companies that help The Design Confidential create fresh new content like this! I heart you guys.

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Duet Bunk Bed Trundle and Bookcase

01.28.15
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Trundle and Bookcase for the Duet Bunk Bed via @thedesconf

We last left off with the plans for the Duet Bunk Bed portion of this beauty and today we finish her off with the rolling trundle and bookcase portion of the plans. This part is easy, you got this… I can’t wait to see how you customize your duet bunk. Maybe skip the panels on the side with the bookcase so it is accessible from the beds? Maybe convert the trundle to rolling storage for all of those toys and items that are too deep for a bookcase (like board games) or set up a train station slash lego building surface that doesn’t need to be put away each day and can simply be tucked away out of site until the next go around… Just my two cents, love to know what amazing things you might do!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$525-$575 – approximate total bunk bed cost
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Trundle and Bookcase for the Duet Bunk Bed via @thedesconf

 

Lumber list is for the entire bunk bed with trundle and bookcase. If you purchased these items for the first portion (the bunk beds) you will NOT need to purchase again.

  • 6 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 16 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 8 – 2×4 at 8’
  • 6 – 2×6 at 8’
  • 3 – 4×4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1/4” sheet of plywood at 2’x4’
  • 5 – 3/4” sheets of plywood at 4’x8’

Materials list is for the entire bunk bed with trundle and bookcase. If you purchased these items for the first portion (the bunk beds) you will NOT need to purchase again.

This portion of the cut list is for the bookcase and trundle only!!

  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12”x70” – Bookcase Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12”x48-1/2” – Bookcase Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 3/4” plywood at 12”x48-1/2” – Bookcase Middle Shelves
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 12”x13” – Bookcase Cubby Walls
  • 8 – 1×2 at 48-1/2” – Back and Front Sliding Door Rails
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x24” – Top Sliding Door
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at 14”x24” – Bottom Sliding Door
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 40”x75-1/2” – Trundle Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 7-1/2”x40” – Trundle Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 7-1/2”x77” – Trundle Front and Back

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

We will pick up where we left off on the plans for the duet bunk beds.

Cut the pieces for the Bookcase Sides, Top and Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom. Also, drill pocket holes along the backside of Sides (to later attach to bed). Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Bookcase Middle Shelves. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each end of the Middle Shelves. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Bookcase Cubby Walls. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of each Cubby Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Rails. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the ends of each Rail. Position the Back Rails as shown. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut out the Sliding Doors. Drill a 1” diameter hole on each side of the Door as shown.

Next, place the Top Sliding Door in front of the Back Rails, then place the Front Rails in front of the Door. Repeat the process for the Bottom Sliding Door.

Cut the pieces for the Trundle Bottom and the Trundle Sides. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the ends of the Trundle Sides and along each side of the Trundle Bottom. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Trundle Front and Back. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Attach the casters to the bottom of the Trundle Bottom as shown. Be careful to use screws that are short enough in length to not poke thrown the other side of the Trundle Bottom.

(bottom view)

Attach the Bookcase to the Bed Posts as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Next, Slide the Trundle under the bottom of the lower bunk. It’s time for a slumber party!

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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