Showcase

Builders Showcase // Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

03.10.15
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

My son just got a TV for the playroom last year for Christmas. He is 7 yrs old. He loves using netflix and playing his Wii U games. I had everything sitting on plastic totes.

I wanted something better and never could find the right stand to go in there. I needed something to last, but looked nice being in the room.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

I cut out some mouse holes (What they look like to me) for the cables to go through. I decided not to paint the back panels becuase I liked the two tone look it gave.

You can't see them that well in the picture, but I drilled holes in the back panel. They are right under each shelf. I did that to help vent some the of the hot air that either gaming system puts out when running for a such a longer period of time. You dont even see them when your looking at the front of it.

Estimated Cost 

$100-$120

Length of Time 

3 weeks

Modifications 

I had to switch to the 1-1/4 pocket hole screws when attaching the legs to the side panels. The 2″ screws were splitting my 2×2 legs.

Lumber Used 

3/4 & 1/4 Oak Plywood

3 2×2 8'

3 1×2 8' Spruce-Pine-Fir Furring Strip

Finishing Technique 

Cabot 1-Quart Smoke Paprika Oil Modified Wood Stain (Satin)

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

Home / Shopping / Studio

In The Garden // Year Round Color + Interest

03.09.15
The Design Confidential In the Garden Adding Year Round Color and Interest

In the sea of beige that is my yard each winter, I have been desperate to make some changes that will bring year round color and interest to this space. I'm guessing I'm not alone in my dislike of this baren stretch of time, where the leaves have fallen and everything looks dreary, because I have been noticing quite a few new plant varieties pop up in the garden centers around town, that aim to solve for this. I am determined to add varieties of trees, shrubs and plants to my yard that are evergreen, whenever possible, so that my privacy screen doesn't dissapear each winter and my beautiful yard doesn't look dead and dormant. Imagine my joy at finding some of my faves offered in an evergreen variety! To have my plants be green all year round no longer means I must go without flowering, vining, and beautiful varieties and I am no longer resigned to alternate between the different colors of shrub to gain that interest I am seeking in my landscape.

The Design Confidential In the Garden Adding Year Round Color and Interest

Many of the plants are now also water-wise, even more hardy and able to withstand full sun as well as those colder temps in the winter. For our climate this opens up our options quite a bit since it doesn't snow here in the winter but we occasionally get frost and this obliterates a great many of my flowering, sensitive beauties each year… hibiscus – I'm looking at you doll.

Because I want it all and I don't want to sacrifice anything in order to have what I want.

So I have set out to tackle each area of my yard, little by little. Most of my yard has extreme heat and sun to contend with, but my courtyard has 2 planters that get a bit of shade and naturally I am over the moon about having this little slice where I get to plant the good stuff. Seems like most of the lush and beautiful things I love most, don't prefer to bake at 105 degrees from sun up till sun down, for several months of the year – go figure

The Design Confidential In the Garden Adding Year Round Color and Interest

This is what I started with… it was wild and unruly after an irrigation leak and subsequent repair, an entire tree worth of fallen leaves, weeds, and all that beige.

THE PLANNING PROCESS //

// When I plan my plantings, I like to have each section stand on it's own while it remains part of the greater whole, so I try to infuse each individual area with it's own mixture of color, texture and type.

// I will generally carry the design vertically in addition to adding interest at ground level so for each section I go for a nice high / low mix – which in this case has nothing to do with cost and everything to do with location, location, location.

// I tend to choose a contrasting mix of colors to give each area the most bang for it's buck. My tendency is to work with foliage in shades of burgundy, dark green, variegated yellow green, and a pale silvery sage.

// I also mix texture and foliage type and find that a nice mix of large and leafy, grassy or blade-like, and soft and delicate leaves to be most appealing to me.

// I think each section should have it's showstopper, for me this is usually some spectacular variety of flowering beauty or an extremely unique plant type that commands attention in some way, shape, or form.

The Design Confidential In the Garden Adding Year Round Color and Interest

To deal with that beige wall that is so prominent and to hide the drain I chose a vining, dark leaved, evergreen clematis to live in this vertical space and bring an organic feel to it with it's wild growth pattern. I did a serious little happy dance at the nursery when I found that baby since all of my other vining plants lose their leaves in the winter. I chose two variegated winter daphne that will grow to a substantial mid range height of around 4 feet by 4 feet and will provide a gorgeous back drop for the double peony I chose to make my showstopper.

I will generally lay them out to get a sense of placement and so I can set up the drip line and keep everything watered properly once I forget about them all.

The Design Confidential In the Garden Adding Year Round Color and Interest

I often mix the leaves right into the soil to ammend it and give it some good organic matter and I did that here during the planting process. I will generally just turn the soil all throughout an area I'm planting and turn any of the decomposing leaves and mulch right into the mix. This is particularly helpful when your soil isn't grade A top soil with tons of nutrients and replacing all or most of your existing top soil isn't quite in the budget. I raked aside a decent amount of the remaining organic matter and I will use it to ammend the soil in another more derelict portion of my yard that currently does a pretty good job of suffocating my plants, it is becoming dire.

The Design Confidential In the Garden Adding Year Round Color and Interest

All that is left is some additional cleanup and a good solid layer of mulch to keep the girls happy, and then I can move on to the next spot!

So tell me, how does your garden grow? Do you like a wild organic mix with lots of contrast or do you like a minimal and calming design? What are some of your favorite plants to add to your landscape? I'm very much still learning what works best here and what the elements will croak on contact, so I would love to hear your tips and tricks.

This project was created in partnership with Monrovia, the Horticultural Craftsmen who are creating these amazing hybrids I love so much. Thank you all for supporting the brands that help bring new and fresh content to The Design Confidential… my no longer dreary spot in the courtyard thanks you!

Showcase

Builders Showcase // Kevin's Adorable Little Builder and Her Gorgeous Loft Bed

03.06.15
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase for Kevin's Adorable Little Builder and Her Gorgeous Loft Bed via @thedesconf

Thank you again so much for posting these plans. Everything was straightforward and easy to follow. My kid just loves it, and that I built it (with her help) makes it really special.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase for Kevin's Adorable Little Builder and Her Gorgeous Loft Bed via @thedesconf

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 

Estimated Cost 

Length of Time 

Modifications 

Lumber Used 

Finishing Technique 

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase for Kevin's Adorable Little Builder and Her Gorgeous Loft Bed via @thedesconf

To showcase your build from The Design Confidential, post a showcase on the site or share to your social media profiles with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff. Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential and @thedesconf so I'm sure to see your hard work!

Plans

Free DIY Outdoor Plans // How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter

03.05.15
The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf

Spring is in the air, is it not? I am getting an early start on all of my spring planting in the hopes that my garden babies will weather the extreme heat of the summer if they have a bit more time to get established. Fingers crossed it all works out and we don’t have so many casualties as we typically do, eek!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

To view 1000’s of other free woodworking plans, visit our plan index.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
$25-$50
The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
  • 6 – 2×4 at 8’
  • 18 – 2×4 at 13-3/4” – Sides
  • 3 – 2×4 at 32-1/8” – Primary Centers
  • 12 – 2×4 at 14-3/4” – Secondary Sides
  • 1 – 2×4 at 3-1/2” – Centerpiece

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the Sides. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both outside ends of each piece (noted in graphic) and along the bottom long end of 12 of the 18 Sides. See Step 6 for more detail of the Sides.

Top View of Side

Cut the pieces for the Primary Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes along the bottom long end of 2 of the 3 Primary Centers. Make sure to keep the pockets holes away from the last 5 inches of each end.

Cut the pieces for the Secondary Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes along the bottom long end of 8 of the 12 Secondary Centers.

Create the First Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Note that many of the First Level pieces do not have pocket holes along their long edges. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Create the Second Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Create the Third Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Cut the Centerpiece. Attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” wood screws. This Centerpiece will help keep the Secondary Centers “locked” into place since no pocket screws will be used to secure them into place.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Build / DIY

Getting Started // How to Choose the Right Type of Wood for Your Projects

03.04.15
The Design Confidential Getting Started How to Choose the Right Type of Wood for Your Projects via @thedesconf
The single most frequently asked question that I get from you guys is all about the wood. Which is best for the project you plan to tackle? How do you know what to buy at the lumber supply store, when my plans only mention the size? For me, there are 3 things I take into consider when choosing wood for a project. You will need to weigh all 3 of these things and make choices along the way for your particular purposes so don’t be surprised if you feel like the info below gets a bit circular at times. It does, this is a bit of a circular process, so just keep on keeping on and know that once you work your way through these tidbits you will go through this decision making process without hesitation. Choosing your wood will soon be as second nature, as it seems for me, which is probably why it has taken me 3 days to figure out how to explain this to another human… It’s funny how the process of thinking about something can begin to feel more like you hardly give it a thought. Hopefully you can make sense of all the crazy that floats around in this head of mine.

Before I load you with info, just know that there really isn’t an exacting answer to this question and that while choosing the best products for your projects is a great starting point, it is almost never the make or break of those projects. A great many things determine the longevity of your project, but I can promise you that if you have children, how they use and abuse your projects will weigh far greater on how long that something lasts than anything else. I know the process of choosing lumber and wood for building can feel very overwhelming when you are presented with meellions of options. But truly, there isn’t one absolute and correct answer to this, so have no fear of making some sort of fatal mistake here, it’s nearly impossible to do so.

DEFINITIONS // How I will refer to the various wood products below

  • – Sheet Goods // Plywood, MDF, Melamine, Particle Board
  • – Lumber // 2x’s + 4x’s – 2×2’s, 2×3’s, 2×4’s, 4×4’s – often stud grade dimensional lumber
  • – Boards // 1x’s – 1×2’s, 1×3’s, 1×4’s all the way up to 1×12’s – also technically dimensional lumber, but it’s helpful to separate them in this way

WOOD SPECIES // I will get into the complexity of these next time, but this generalized guide will help for now

Soft Wood // Generally any cone producing tree – Pine, Fir, Spruce, Redwood, Cedar

  • – Typically less expensive
  • – Easier to build with
  • – Often of lesser quality in your big box stores
  • – Generally what you will find for stud grade lumber (all 2x’s and 4x’s) at big box stores
  • – Requires more work to finish – difficult to stain with

Hard Wood // Generally any leaf producing tree – Poplar, Oak, Maple, Birch, Walnut, Mahogany

  • – Typically more expensive
  • – More durable
  • – Slightly harder to build with
  • – Often of greater quality in your big box stores
  • – Easier to finish – requiring less work – better for stained finishes
  • – Generally found as boards (1x’s) and plywood in your big box stores

Now that we have those things out of the way, let’s dive right in for the remaining decision making ingredients – there are three.

The first of these is the project type and while all three factors are important, this one will dictate your options and limitations for the remaining two.

PROJECT TYPE // There are 3 different project types you will find plans for, here on The Design Confidential and these will directly affect your available choices for finish and cost.

Sheet Goods Only // Projects built entirely of sheet goods

  • – Interior and hidden pieces can be lesser quality – purchase partial sheets for these pieces when possible
  • – Quality of visible and exterior pieces should be determined by your desired finish.
  • – Stain – Avoid pine but otherwise simply choose a grain pattern you like that is of a slightly higher grade
  • – Paint – For smoothest finish choose MDF or a light grain species like birch. For rustic painted finish choose moderate quality, grain pattern of preference
  • – Washable – Melamine which is typically white is often used for cabinet interiors and children’s furniture

 Dimensional Lumber // Projects built entirely of lumber and / or boards

  • – Lumber + Board Combo – Projects that require 2x’s and 1x’s, maybe even 4x’s.
  • – If choosing the best boards for your budget and not all are pine, paint or go with a natural or wax finish to avoid mismatched stain absorption.
  • – Lumber Only – likely limited to soft wood studs if you are shopping a big box store
  • – beginners should avoid the pine and stain combo. Despite what DIY blogger pictures might make you think, pine can be a nightmare to stain evenly or even well.
  • – Boards Only – Choose according to budget and / or desired finish.
  • – Buying the best boards for your budget will save you time on the back end for sanding and finishing.
  • – Hard wood boards will be easier to stain

Mixed Bag // Projects built with sheet goods and lumber or boards (or both)

– It is possible to match wood type all the way through if desired, but likely limited to pine or fir if lumber is required.

The Design Confidential Getting Started How to Choose the Right Type of Wood for Your Projects via @thedesconf
// Aside from your project type and the materials required by that, you will ultimately arrive at your perfect product choice based on one of two remaining things: budget or finish. Deciding on one of these as being more important will dictate your options for the other so these two factors remain intertwined throughout, just as the project type does.
  • – If you decide to purchase product that suits your budget, then that will likely dictate how you can best finish your piece.
  • – Conversely, if you have a particular finish in mind, then you should choose the products that will best help you arrive at your desired finish.

Easy peasy, friends. The project type is determined by… well, the project, so that is done for you to a certain extent. Now you need to simply decide which to favor – price or finish – or a lovely compromise between both and call it a day.

BUDGET //

Limited Budget // Soft woods like Pine and Fir are going to be the least expensive

  • – Purchasing furring strips or standard 8 foot boards will often be cheaper than 6 foot boards
  • – Quality can be substandard and will require greater effort on the back end, but will offer a great savings in cost
  • – Will likely dictate a painted finish for a beginner as pine is frequently difficult to stain evenly or even well
  • – Since Pine can be found in sheet goods, lumber, and boards it is possible to match your wood type all the way through
  • – While this may appear to provide a decent situation for stain – proceed with caution there and consider paint or a natural waxed finish instead

Moderate Budget // Looking to build a standout piece, buy the best boards you can afford – at the big box stores this is most likely a hard wood type like poplar or oak.

  • – If you are working on a dimensional lumber project type with both lumber and boards needed, this will likely result in a piece with mixed wood types since big box stores don’t tend to carry quality lumber like they do for boards.
  • – Mixing wood types likely dictates a painted finish, but that finish will be easier to achieve on the good stuff.
  • – For prominent boards, choosing a slightly more expensive board will make building easier and will save you considerable time on the back end.
  • – This might include select boards or hard wood boards such as poplar or oak.
  • – These will be straighter and have less defect making joints easier to accomplish and your overall build better looking without hours of sanding

Decent Budget // Quality boards and specialty wood types

  • – At a big box store this is not entirely possible if you require sheet goods, lumber and boards, at least not without a bit of effort, sooooo…
  • – If lumber is the odd man out, consider purchasing boards to face glue together to get you to the required lumber size in a wood type you prefer (2 – 1×4’s equal a 2×4)
  • – If you want a stained finish, consider venturing into the world of veneer
  • – Consider purchasing larger timber such as 4×4’s or 4×6’s in something other than pine (cedar or redwood perhaps), then cut them down on a table saw to create your 2×4’s
  • – If you just can’t match lumber and board wood types given availability, then paint or a natural waxed finish may be your friend here
  • – Consider heading to your local lumber supplier to get matching products for lumber, sheet goods, and boards
  • – Stain or paint as you see fit. Lighter grain pattern equals a smoother finish for paint.

FINISH //

Painted Finish // The good news here is that if you want a painted finish you can purchase virtually any wood type necessary and no one will know the better, but if you are looking for a smooth modern finish the tips below should help.

  • – Smooth Modern Finish //
  • – MDF or lightly grained plywood – spackle or edge band the exposed edges
  • – Hard wood boards require less effort on the back end

Stained Finish // This will limit your options I’m afraid and may result in the need for more expensive materials

  • – Best to match wood type all the way through – at a big box store you are either limited to pine or must get creative with the use of boards for creating the lumber sizes needed
  • – Hard woods are generally easier to stain with good result.
  • – Use edge banding (a type of veneer) on exposed edges for sheet goods

That my friends is just about all she wrote. When you are getting ready to build you will run through the project, determine the type, then choose the specific wood type and products that are possible or preferable for your specific purposes.

If you would like to read more from our getting started topic, check out some of our reader faves:

Lumber and the Raw Deal

Tool Time // The Real Skinny and Absolute Must Haves

Tool Time // Dream Team + 10 Tools that Make Building DIY Furniture Amazingly Easy

Taming of the Screw // 3 Tips to Help you Avoid Stripping your Screws

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Director’s Chair

02.27.15
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Director’s Chair via @thedesconf

Oh adorable little (not that little) director’s chair, I have my eye on you for some bonafide fabulous outdoor seating. Perfect for indoor use or the great outdoors if you use an appropriate specie of wood; I love that this plan can be made to suit your own personal decor.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$25-$50
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Director’s Chair via @thedesconf
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22-1/2” – Fronts
  • 2 – 2×2 at 34-1/2” –Backs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” –Arm Rests
  • 2 – 2×2 at 17” – Outer Seat
  • 2 – 2×2 at 17” – Bottoms
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Inner Seat
  • 4 – 1×2 at 26-11/16” – Cross Supports

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Note: *If you plan to paint or stain the wood pieces, please do so before attaching the fabric.

Cut the pieces for the Backs. Next, cut the Fabric Backrest.

Turn under long edges of the Backrest 1/2”, iron, and then turn them under another 1/2” and iron again. There will be no need to do this to the short edges of the Backrest, since they will not be visible.

To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.

Place the Backs on the Fabric Backrest as shown and secure into place with staples. “Roll” the fabric onto each Back. To do this, you can roll the Backs toward the center of the fabric so that a total of 9” of fabric is rolled onto each Back. For extra strength, you can staple the fabric-covered Backs, or use decorative upholstery nails.

You should be left with approximately 21” of fabric between the two Backs after “rolling.” When assembled, the Backs will be 20” from each other, with 1” of “slack” in the Fabric Backrest.

Cut the pieces for the Fronts, Arm Rests, Outer Seat Pieces, and Bottoms. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in the top ends of the Fronts, the back ends of the Arm Rests, and both ends of the Outer Seat Pieces and Bottoms. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. You may want to set up some type of support on the sides of the Chair since it may be floppy until the Cross Supports are assembled.

Next, cut the piece for the Fabric Seat.

Turn under long edges of the Seat 1/2”, iron, and then turn them under another 1/2” and iron again. There will be no need to do this to the short edges of the Seat, since they will not be visible.

To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.

Next, cut the pieces for the Inner Seat Pieces and Cross Supports. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4”, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Cross Supports. Refer to graphics to see which direction your pocket holes should face. Don’t attach anything just yet!

Place the Inner Seat Pieces on the Fabric Seat as shown and secure into place with staples. “Roll” the fabric onto each Inner Seat piece. To do this, you can roll the Inner Seat Pieces toward the center of the fabric so that a total of 6-3/4” of fabric is rolled onto each Inner Seat Piece. For extra strength, you can staple the fabric-covered Inner Seat Pieces, or use decorative upholstery nails.

You should be left with approximately 21” of fabric between the two Inner Seat Pieces, with 1” of “slack” in the Fabric Seat.

Attach the Inner Seat Pieces to the Outer Seat Pieces as shown with 1-1/4” wood screws.

Next, attach the Cross Supports as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws. You may have to play a little with the exact position of the Cross Supports (use the graphic as a starting point). Use 1-1/4” wood screws at the point where the Cross Supports cross one another.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

Home / Shopping

Boys + Bathrooms // Trash Basket Baggu

02.25.15
The Design Confidential Boys Plus Bathrooms Equal Trash Basket Baggu Solution

Boys plus bathrooms equal trash basket Baggu – trust me on this one. You see, I am a mama to two boys, which some of you may already know… and as the only female in the house, it has been an eye opening experience to see first hand what goes on in the mind of a boy. My oldest babe is now 7, and we are well past many of those lovely first stages of life learning every kiddo goes through – like potty training. At least with him, we are. When we were deep in the trenches of ridding our world of diapers, everyone had plenty of advice to spare. Which was welcome, to be sure, especially as a first time mom and as a mom of a boy which of course I have nothing in common with where it concerns bodily functions – if you know what I mean. Stand up, sit down, so many things to consider… eek. Everyone has a different method that worked for them and sorting through it all to find the gems was a bit overwhelming at times. Somehow we managed to survive the experience, picking and choosing the pieces of advice that seemed most likely to work for us (and him). What I found, once I was on the other side of that stage, is that there is a whole host of ‘things’ that little boys do and that no one seems to have mentioned anything about. Perhaps it is because they simply suffered through these ‘things’… or perhaps their children are angelic and never dared to find the sort of adventure and fun in the bathroom that I will dare to speak about today… I couldn’t say.

Baggu Bag / Sailor Stripe

The Design Confidential Boys Plus Bathrooms Equal Trash Basket Baggu Solution

All I know for certain is that when you find yourself wondering why the bathroom smells weird even after you clean, you might think twice about where you place your trash basket… just sayin’. After flipping my lid over this recurring issue in our house, I finally took drastic measures and took the trash basket out of the bathroom altogether. Until of course I realized that it’s really me who uses that sucker and that it is utterly inconvenient not to have one in there. That is right about the time my creative tendencies kicked in and I decided to put a trash bag hanging from the inside door handle. Problem Solved! Except then it wasn’t pretty when guests would come over. I suppose a little ugly is definitely better than smelly, but I always prefer to have my cake and eat it too, don’t you? And then it occurred to me that my Baggu totes are super cute, completely affordable, and very, very washable! Light bulb moment… Any washable tote of this variety will work, I just happened to have these cute guys already.

So for those of you who have boys that are young, this simple little solution is for you, and you’re welcome. You will save yourself a lot of hassle and even more frustration if you nip this problem in the bud, before it even begins! Of course if your door is too far away from the toilet, perhaps place a cute hook that hangs well out of … range?! Not sure how to politely phrase that one, but I hope you know what I mean.

Baggu Bag / Llama Black + White (Dog Pattern is Similar)

Design / DIY / Home

Artistic Appeal // Wet + Wild

02.24.15
The Design Confidential Styling Secrets / Artistic Appeal Wet + Wild Edition Easy Affordable Art for any Budget and Decor Style

Art makes such a statement and for me it is perhaps the single most important piece in a room. It sets the tone for everything else in a space. Most of the time the price tags reflect this and it takes me out of the running entirely. I suppose the truth of the matter is that I feel quite sure that furniture and lighting and basic appliances are a necessity in a home, but art is optional. It's not a requirement for survival or comfort, and plays no role in a person's day to day function. Buying from a gallery is not even a remote possibility for me and while etsy makes the world go round, it is difficult if not nearly impossible to find good looking original art that is larger than a 5×7 and won't cost your weight in gold. But did you know that many artists sell their photography and now prints of their paintings and illustrations to sites like shutterstock? Yahoo for that because it means that those of us who are regular folks with regular incomes can have a few beautiful things too!

I mentioned one of my favorite styling secrets awhile back and since so many of you were excited about the idea, I thought we might expand upon it and turn it into another article and maybe even a regular feature.

Crystal Clear Water / Natali Glado

Pacific Waves for The Design Confidential Artistic Appeal Wet + Wild Edition

These appealing works of art are pieces I think would make amazing prints and that I would absolutely adore in a space of my own. Since I frequent a few regular haunts that offer images of this nature, I thought I would share a few of my faves. If I'm honest, I think this feature is also a way for me to vent a little bit because while I absolutely adore artistic pursuits of this nature and fall in love on the regular with beautiful pieces like these… more often than not I cry myself to sleep because I can't even afford to even stand in the same room as many of the pretties out there. And if the print is large… well forget about it. It is marked up so high that I can't even breath the same air up there. It's not that I don't believe that many artists are truly talented and deserving of a nice income, in fact the opposite is true. I think so very many artists are talented that there should be enough beautiful art to go around for each of us, at each of our price points. And so I gather here and group of gorgeous images that you can purchase for between $10-$15, that are made by talented artists, and can have printed at your local SamsClub or Kinkos in a large size for a really affordable price around $8-$10.

Pacific Waves / Ethan Daniels

Ocean Waves for The Design Confidential Artistic Appeal Wet + Wild Edition

I love the idea of supporting talent such as this and many of the photographers and artists who sell their images on stock sites are such that you wouldn't otherwise find them and it gives them an outlet to support themselves doing what they love. Meanwhile, It gives people like us an outlet for finding beautiful work that we can enjoy in a way that doesn't require the future donation of a kidney. I can tell you that what I consider affordable and what a typical designer considers affordable often seems to differ by a great many hundreds of dollars. If I could afford to buy every piece I love, well I would be a very rich gal indeed. Luckily I don't have to go without, and neither do you.

Ocean Waves / BPlanet

Tropical Beach from Above for The Design Confidential Artistic Appeal Wet + Wild Edition

There are so many amazing images to share but I have tried to keep myself in check and limit it to these four beautiful beachy scenes. Some may seem familiar to you, and others are yet to be found… I encourage you to take a peak and if there is a gorgeous print you have had your eye on but can't afford, well maybe give the search function a try and see if you can't find something similar that is in your price range.

Tropical Beach / FamVeld

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Mid Century Secretary

02.23.15
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid Century Secretary via @thedesconf

I adore this beauty and I think it would make a fabulous nightstand… even though it isn’t a nightstand. I suppose I have a history of making unlikely pieces into nightstands and I can see a future for this baby in the empty space along the wall where my bed lives. Of course I can see this beauty in about a dozen other ideal spots in my home, so maybe they will have to fight it out…

To browse 1000’s of other free DIY furniture + project plans, visit our Plan Index

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid Century Secretary via @thedesconf
$100-$150
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Mid Century Secretary via @thedesconf
  • 4 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 60” – Frame Side Fronts
  • 2 – 1×2 at 59” – Frame Side Backs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 7-1/4” – Frame Side Tops
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/4” – Frame Side Middles
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14-3/4” – Frame Side Bottoms
  • 2 – 1×4 at 50-1/2” – Frame Bottom Front and Back
  • 1 – 1×2 at 50-1/2” – Frame Top Back
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x50-1/2” – Bottom Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x18” – Bottom Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x49” – Bottom Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x17-1/4” – Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider
  • 1 – 1×2 at 20” – Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 9”x15”– Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x25-3/4”– Large Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 9”x27-1/4”– Large Drawer Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/2”x28”– Large Drawer Front
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x15”– Small Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x17-1/2”– Small Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x19”– Small Drawer Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-3/4”x19-3/4”– Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-3/4”– Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x50-1/2”– Top Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18-1/4”– Top Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18-1/4”x49”– Top Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 17-1/4”x18-1/4”– Top Cabinet Vertical Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/4”x28-1/4”– Top Cabinet Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-3/4”– Left Cabinet Door
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x28”– Right Cabinet Desk/Door

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the Frame Side Fronts, Side Backs, Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms. Cut decorative curves in the Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms as shown. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms. Just a reminder to drill pocket holes after cutting the 8 degree angles in the pieces.

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice, once for each side. If desired, have the pocket holes face the inside of the Desk.

Cut the pieces for the Top Back, Bottom Front, and Bottom Back. Cut a decorative curve in the Bottom Front and Bottom Back as shown. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Top Back, Bottom Front, and Bottom Back.

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Next, cut the pieces for the Bottom Cabinet Top, Sides, and Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Face the pocket screws toward the inside of the Cabinet if desired.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider and the Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Horizontal Divider and the top, bottom, and back of the Vertical Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Sides and Bottoms. Drill pocket holes in the front and back of the Sides and in all sides of the Bottoms. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Backs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Fronts. The top of the Large Drawer Front will extend 1” above the drawer box top, 3/8” beyond the drawer box sides, and 1/2” beyond the drawer box bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. Once installed, there should be a 1/8” gap on each side of the Drawer Front.

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Sides and Bottoms. Drill pocket holes in the front and back of the Sides and in all sides of the Bottoms. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice – once for each Small Drawer.

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Backs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice – once for each Small Drawer.

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Fronts. The top of the Small Drawer Front will extend 1” above the drawer box top, 3/8” beyond the drawer box sides, and 1/2” beyond the drawer box bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice – once for each Small Drawer.

Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. Once installed, there should be a 1/8” gap on each side of the Drawer Front.

Next, cut the pieces for the Top Cabinet Top, Sides, and Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Face the pocket screws toward the inside of the Cabinet if desired.

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Vertical Divider. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Shelf. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each side and back of the Shelf. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Lay the assembled Frame on its back so that assembly is easier (temporarily remove Drawers and Cabinet Doors to reduce weight). Insert the assembled Top Cabinet and assembled Bottom Cabinet as shown. Attach the Cabinets to the Frame with glue and 1-1/2” wood screws.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

Showcase

Builders Showcase // From Loft Bed to Bunk Beds Using The Twin Low Loft Bed Plans

02.23.15

I have a 4 year old and 2 year old. They share a bedroom and my wife and I were looking for a design to make a lofted bed for our 4 year old. I found the Low Loft Bed plans on here and went with it. I built it slightly higher than the plans say and went 5 feet high overall.

But with that, we were able to turn it into a bunk bed for my 2 year old by repeating the steps for the top bunk on the bottom one! A little paint, and we were all set!

I had followed the plans for the low lofted bed and went to the local big box store and got everything I needed. I added some cheap rope lighting below to top bunk for reading while on the bottom bunk.

This was what I started with from using the low lofted bed plan.

Estimated Cost 

All in all, I had about $150 in this project including the materials for the top AND bottom bunk. The paint was a few dollars more, but we had some of it already. The price is to build the bed and doesn't include the mattress cost.

Length of Time 

It was about 2 weekend project of time total. I built it once, painted it, took it apart, moved it inside, and reassembled it.

Modifications 

I just made it slightly higher than the original plans called for and put a bottom bunk on it.

Lumber Used 

I followed the plans with 1×4, 2×4, 2×6, and 4×4 with some hardware.

Finishing Technique 

I used lots of paint to get good coverage and I sanded the cuts to round the edges over.

This bed is super sturdy and comfortable. We had over 600 pounds of people laying the the bottom bunk and the think didn't even think of moving!

Design / Shopping

It's Friday I'm In Love // Footloose + Fancy Fringe

02.21.15
Design Confidential Roundup of Home Decor for It's Friday I'm In Love Footloose Fancy Fringe

I have a major crush on peachy pastels paired with bold black and white. An impressive chameleon, I am pretty certain this pale hue is gorgeous paired with warm bold colors in the fall and equally as fresh come spring when the weather starts to give way just a bit. While it's cold and dreary in many parts of the country right now, I bet many of you are craving a little warmth in your surroundings too. These fabulous pieces are bringing a little excitement to my life right now while I finish out my design planning process for a few new projects. Drooling over them seems to be doing a fabulous job of keeping me warm and cozy while I pretend to wait patiently for Mother Nature to calm the heck down. I mean, fringe on bath towels? Affordable Moroccan inspired pillows and cute magnets for keeping things in order? Yahoo…

Tray / Towels

Design Confidential Roundup of Home Decor for It's Friday I'm In Love Footloose Fancy Fringe Pendant Lights Color Block Magnets Splatter Bedding Moroccan Pillow Peach Abstract Oversized Art Gray Turkish Towel

1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // Tray / Towels

Design / Home

Room Envy // The Well Oiled Machine + 5 Things

02.19.15

I would just like to state for the record that I know absolutely nothing about the actual person(s) who happen to live in this home in real life. But in my mind, the people who live here seriously have their shit together. They stick to a relatively low key schedule that includes daily yoga and long lunches at farm to fork inspired restaurants. They spend days taking meetings with important people in their glamorous offices and their weekends are spent traveling or lounging about with small cups of coffee and the newspaper or magazines spread out carelessly across the bed. Their lives and their home run like a well oiled machine and require very little effort to maintain. In other words, the precise opposite of what it’s like in my home. There is nothing I love more than my two babes, but I do indeed dream of the day when I can have white furniture and carefree days spent in leisure… and tiny cups of coffee that don’t have to be reheated 47 times and added together into a huge cup of coffee, just to survive the day.

If you are new to the Room Envy series, you can catch up right here. Basically this column is a way for me to share a space that is inspiring me while I give a fictional commentary about the people who live in it and then in turn tell you 5 things about me, my life, or my family that I bet you didn’t know. It’s my way of keeping it real without turning into a mommy blog or a fashion blog… perhaps the first item of note would be my sarcasm since the latter of those two blog types is slightly laughable…. says the gal wearing yoga pants and sawdust.

One // This cute guy and this cute guy have decided to become roommates. This has been an interesting transition and not one without some interesting hurdles. I will share more on this soon.

Two // Item one above has left me mourning the fact that I never had a fully finished nursery space for Penn. He wouldn’t lay flat for the first ten months of his life (not an exaggeration) so naturally he didn’t sleep in his crib until he was nearly 11 months old and quite honestly life got in the way. Now here we are with him on the verge of boyhood and I fear I have completely missed that window of opportunity.

Three // I am slowly learning that when your kids start school and begin to make new friends, that it isn’t only them who must do this new friend-making. This seems to be the case when your kids are still really little and especially if they are boys. They just aren’t able to navigate that whole play date thing all that well on their own and gone are the days of home phones so as a parent this falls to us. I have to say it does feel a bit like grade school all over again, but luckily I have met some amazing moms along the way!

Four // If you follow me on Instagram, you may already know this… but a few weeks ago I started a 108 day yoga program. I can happily report that with my wisdom teeth and of course life happening, that I have successfully completed about 7 days worth of yoga in the last few weeks. But those 7 days were the best and worst days ever so I feel positive about how things are going (sarcasm again). Once I get the green light I am super excited to get back on schedule because it is the greatest ass kicking yoga I have done in a very long time, except the stretching sessions… bleck. I like to feel the burn and I have the attention span of a gnat, so those are hard for me.

Five // I started watching Arrow after I heard mention of it from this cute gal, and I’m totally hooked! Soooo good. I like all kinds of tv from the period dramas to the ridiculous reality shows and so naturally I consider myself an avid fan of the person who invented that sucker. But seriously, it’s a super duper good show and it will hook you right in!

IMAGES // Via