Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Valet

03.29.11
Project Image

Another piece for our Hudson Collection! So yesterday we were talking about the tools we keep in our tool boxes and I would love for some of you to share your tips, tricks, and special tools you always use with us here! If you are interested in sharing a bit about yourself, please send me an email to rayanturner@gmail.com. I would love to hear from you!

Dimensions for This Project

$100-$150

Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

2 – 2×2 at 8’ (one of each leg size per board)

7 – 1×2 at 10’

3 – 1×2 at 8’

1 – 1×2 at 6’

1 – 1×3 at 8’

1 – 1×3 at 6’

2 – 1×8 at 10’

2 Sheets of 3/4” Plywood or MDF

1 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF

Materials

**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

1 1/4” Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2×2 at 53 1/2” Legs

2 – 2×2 at 29 1/8” Legs

2 – 1×2 at 22” Upper Top Trim

2 – 1×2 at 22 7/8” Upper Top Trim

1 – 1×2 at 20 1/2” Lower Top Trim

2 – 1×2 at 20 5/8” Lower Top Trim

2 – 1×2 at 47 7/8” Door Trim

8 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Door and Drawer Trim

6 – 1×2 at 7 1/4” Drawer Trim

12 – 1×2 at 17 3/4” Shelf Cleats and Drawer Supports

3 – 1×2 at 17 5/8” Drawer Supports

4 – 1×2 at 17 1/4” Lower and Upper Side Trim

2 – 1×2 at 25 1/8” Lower Side Trim

2 – 1×2 at 49 1/2” Upper Side Trim

3 – 1×2 at 48” Stiles Center and Back Panel Supports

1 – 1×2 at 18 3/8” Upper Trim Front

1 – 1×2 at 36” Bottom Trim

1 – 1×2 at 24 3/8” Lower Stile

2 – 1×3 at 14” Lower Top Frame

2 – 1×3 at 19 7/8” Lower Top Frame

2 – 1×3 at 15 1/2” Upper Top Frame

2 – 1×3 at 21 3/8” Upper Top Frame

6 – 1×8 at 17 3/4” Drawer Sides

3 – 1×8 at 16” Drawer Backs

3 – 1×8 at 17 1/2” Drawer Fronts

1 – 3/4” ply at 17 1/4” x 49 1/2” Side Panel

1 – 3/4” ply at 17 1/4” x 25 1/8” Side Panel

1 – 3/4” ply at 36” x 18 1/2” Bottom

1 – 3/4” ply at 48 3/4” x 17 3/4” Center Panel

3 – 3/4” ply at 17 3/4” x 17 5/8” Shelves

3 – 3/4” ply at 16” x 17” Drawer Bottoms

1 – 3/4” ply at 47 7/8” x 17 1/2” Door

1 – 3/4” ply at 21 3/8” x 20 1/2” Upper Top

1 – 3/4” ply at 19 7/8” x 19” Lower Top

1 – 1/4” ply at 36” x 49 1/2” Back

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build your Side Panels: Miter your legs at an angle from the 4” mark down on both the inside edges of each leg (2 of the 4 sides of the leg), leaving a 3/4”-1” square at the bottom. Secure the Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Panels will sit flush with the inside edges and the tops of the legs. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Panels to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.

Step 2
Step 2

Attach the Bottom: Connect the Rail (Gray), and the Bottom (blue) to the Side Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the rails in place and 2” screws to fasten the Bottom in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue. All pieces on the back side (bottom) will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the legs to allow for attaching the back panel later.

Step 3
Step 3

Build the Center Panel and Fasten in place. The panel should be notched out in the back corner as shown below in a 3/4” square, and the 1×2’s that connect to it will be fastened as shown with the front 1×2 sitting parallel to the panel and the back 1×2 sitting perpendicular to the panel and flush on the side closest to the lower outside panel. Fasten the Panel to the 1×2’s using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the panel to the existing unit by placing pocket holes in the vertical 1×2’s (gray) to attach to the existing frame already in place. It will sit precisely centered between the outside panels, and the front trim (blue 18 3/8” 1×2) will sit on top of the front parallel 1×2.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4

Fasten the Side Trim and Back Panel in Place. Miter the corners of the Trim for the most professional appearance (not required) and tack on using 1 1/4” finish nails on the sides, and use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails on the back panel which you will cut into an L Shape. Use glue.

Step 5
Step 5

Fasten the Shelves and Drawer Supports in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. The drawer supports (blue/gray) will be fastened together and to the side and center panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the shelf cleats (gray) directly to the center and side panel. Use 1 1/4” screws and glue to secure them and then fasten the shelves to them using glue and 1 1/4” screws and glue.

Step 6
Step 6

Build the Drawers and Door. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×8’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 6 drawers. To build the door, simply cut a plywood panel and fasten the trim in place as shown in the image for the door below. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance. Hang the door according the the installation instructions that accompany your hinge type.

Step 7
Step 7

Build the Top Frames. The top frame will be built using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (gray and blue) to the stiles (blue and purple), so to speak, and fasten the Frame to the Unit using 2” Finish nails and glue.

Step 8
Step 8

Add your Top. Miter the corners of the trim and attach using 2” finish nails and glue.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Viva Terra Inspired King Sized Vintage Fir Platform Bed

03.16.11

Still stunning, no matter how you size it! This plan is updated to include the use of a Pocket Hole System for increased stability and strength, not to mention ease of fastening without having visible screw holes.

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Saw
  • Drill

** Kreg Jig – Optional, but would make this build easier and more stable as well as hide the connections a bit better.

Lumber
  • 7 – 2×8 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 11 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 14 – 2×4 at 8′
Materials
  • 4″ Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler or a Paintable Silicone if you prefer
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2×8 at 83 3/4″ (Sides of Base Frame)
  • 2 – 2×8 at 79″ (Head and Foot of Base Frame)
  • 2 – 2×6 at 80 3/4″ (Joists)
  • 2 – 2×8 at 80 1/2″ (Sides of Perimeter)
  • 1 – 2×8 at 92″ (Foot Perimeter)
  • 9 – 1×3 at 79″ (Slats)
  • 2 – 1×3 at 80 3/4″ (Cleats)
  • 12 – 2×4 at 92″ (Headboard)
  • 4 – 2×4 at 41″ (Back Brace’s)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build the Base Frame: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Frame together and the Joists to the Frame. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 4″ screws and glue.

Step 2
Step 2

Attach the Cleats 1 3/4″ from the top of the Frame edge and use 2″ Screws and Glue. The Slats should be spaced about 6″ apart, screw down using 1 1/4″ Screws.

Step 3
Step 3

Attach the Bordering Platform: Use 4″ Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 5″ overhang on the sides and foot of the bed. The Side Platform Boards should be flush with the head of the beds frame, no overhang there.

Step 4
Step 4

Create the Headboard: Use 12 – 2×4’s and attach them using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Attach by placing your pocket holes on every other board and fasten to the 2 adjacent boards in either direction. Use 2 1/2″ Screws and Wood Glue. Attach 4 – 2×4’s on the back side and Use 2 1/2″ Screws and Wood Glue to fasten in place. This will provide extra balance and stability for your headboard.

Step 5
Step 5

Attach the Headboard to the Frame and Platform Boards. **Use 4″ Screws to attach the Headboard to the Frame AT the frame sides, Joists, and at the Perimeter Boards, so that the screws go through the headboard and into the Frame Sides, Joists, and perimeter platform boards. ** Everywhere else you attach the headboard along the top of the frame, use 2 1/2″ Screws and glue. This headboard will be top heavy, so it should sit against a wall for extra support.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Chifforobe Armoire

03.11.11
Project Image

Another notch on the tally for our Hudson Collection (click here to view the other pieces already completed)! This chifforobe (armoire/dresser) is a fantastic option if you want the look of an armoire but need the functionality of a dresser! This provides both! And yeperoo this is Loren’s plan I’m sharing with you and I am so thankful! I have been hard at work making the site more functional and working on some big, big projects coming soon to a theatre near you! kidding…but I do have some fun and big things in the works for ya’ll! I can’t wait to share some of the haps around here with you! I will be sure to do a full rundown on the changes once they are finished (and I have decided to stick with them, or not)!

Estimated Cost 

$100-$150

Dimensions 
Dimensions for This Project

Tools 
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
  • Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards. Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
Lumber 
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10’ or 4 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 11 – 1×2 at 10’
  • 4 – 1×8 at 10’
  • 2 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood
  • 1 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood (you might also get a 1/2 sheet and a 1/4 sheet to construct the back in 2 pieces if it’s a lot cheaper)
Materials 
  • **3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
  • **2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
  • 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails
  • 1 1/4” Finish Nails
  • 2” Finish Nails Hinges. Pay attention to the install instructions in case you need to adjust door dimensions for hanging properly
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List 
  • 4 – 2×2 at 53 1/2” Legs
  • 3 – 1×2 at 36” Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 48” Supports
  • 5 – 1×2 at 17 5/8” Drawer Support
  • 16 – 1×2 at 17 3/4” Drawer Supports and Cleats
  • 4 – 1×2 at 17 1/4” Side Trim
  • 4 – 1×2 at 49 1/2” Side Trim
  • 12 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Drawer Trim
  • 12 – 1×2 at 7 1/4” Drawer Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 47 7/8” Door Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Door Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14 1/2” Door Trim 
  • 2  – 1×2 at 40 1/2″ Top Frame Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15 1/2″ Top Frame Trim
  • 12 – 1×8 at 17 3/4” Drawer Sides
  • 6 – 1×8 at 16” Drawer Backs
  • 6 – 1×8 at 17 1/2” Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4” Ply at 49 1/2” x 17 1/4” Side Panels
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 49 1/2” x 17 3/4” Center Panel
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 36” x 18 1/2” Bottom Panel
  • 3 – 3/4” Ply at 17 5/8” x 17 3/4” Shelves
  • 6 – 3/4” Ply at 16” x 17” Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 17 1/2” x 47 7/8” Door
  • 1 – 1/4” Ply at 49 1/2” x 36” Back Panel
Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Build your Side Panels: Miter your legs at an angle from the 4” mark down on both the inside edges of each leg (2 of the 4 sides of the leg), leaving a 3/4”-1” square at the bottom. Secure the Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Panels will sit flush with the inside edges and the tops of the legs. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Panels to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.

Step 2

Step 2 

Connect the Panels and Attach the Bottom: Connect the Rails (Gray), Supports (yellow) and the Bottom (green) to the Side Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the rails in place and 2” screws to fasten the Bottom in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue. All pieces on the back side (rail, supports, and bottom) will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the legs to allow for attaching the back panel later.

Step 3
Step 3

Step 3 

Build the Center Panel and Fasten in place. The panel should be notched out in the back corner as shown below (notch on right side of diagram – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″, notches on left side from top – 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ and 3/4″ x 3/4″) and the 1×2’s that connect to it will be fastened as shown with the front 1×2 sitting paralell to the panel and the back 1×2 sitting perpendicular to the panel and centered. Fasten the Panel to the 1×2’s using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the panel to the existing unit by placing pocket holes in the vertical 1×2’s (red) to attach to the existing frame already in place. It will sit precisely centered between the outside panels. Build the Panel, then Fasten it to  the Unit.

Step 4

Step 4 

Fasten the Shelves and Drawer Supports in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. The drawer supports (green/yellow) will be fastened together and to the side and center panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the shelf cleats (red) directly to the center and side panel. Use 1 1/4” screws and glue to secure them and then fasten the shelves to them using glue and 1 1/4” screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 5 

Fasten the Side Trim and Back Panel in Place. Miter the corners of the Trim for the most professional appearance (not required) and tack on using 1 1/4” finish nails on the sides, and use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails on the back panel. Use glue.

Step 6
Step 6

Build the Drawers and Door. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×8’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 6 drawers. To build the door, simply cut a plywood panel and fasten the trim in place as shown in the image for the door below. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance. Hang the door according the the installation instructions that accompany your hinge type.

Step 7

Step 7 

Build and Top Frame. The top frame will be built using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (green) to the stiles (yellow), so to speak, and fasten the Frame to the Unit using 2” Finish nails and glue.

Step 8

Step 8 

Add your Top. Miter the corners of the trim and attach using 2” finish nails and glue.

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free DIY furniture Plans to Build a $30 PotteryBarn Inspired Chesapeake Picnic Table

03.10.11
Project Image

Can you imagine what might be coming next? Can ya, can ya? Mums the word, but I suppose it shouldn’t be too tough to figure out. Spring is in the air, and I just can’t wait to get outside and enjoy some of that sunshine, so I am all outdoor, all the time, at least in my mind! I have designed this plan to be constructed entirely of stud grade lumber so it should be really inexpensive to build with no problem finding the materials! Can I get a yahoo? Yahoo! How about a yahoo for a $470 savings? That’s right, this beauty can be built for around $30!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$25-$50

Dimensions for This Project
  • 1 – 2×3 at 10’ or 2 – 2×3 at 6’
  • 1 – 2×6 at 6’
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6’
  • 4 – 2×4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2×4 at 10’
  • 4 – 2×3 at 27 1/2” Table Supports
  • 2 – 2×6 at 29 7/8” Table Top
  • 8 – 2×4 at 61” Table Top
  • 2 – 2×4 at 43” Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 21” Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 at 25” Truss Supports

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build your Table Top: I realize we typically do this last, but isn’t it exciting to do it first? Yay! Join the Boards to the Outer Bread Boards using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. Be sure to use glue that is applicable for outdoor projects. Space the Boards 1/4” apart.

Step 2
Step 2

Attach the Table Supports : Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to attach the Supports or use 2 1/2” screws from the top of the table top and be sure to countersink. The Supports will sit back 1” fron the front/back edges and 1 1/2” from the side edges, and should be spaced as shown below.

Step 3
Step 3

Fasten the Legs in Place: You want the height of your X-Shape to be about 28 1/2” and the width of your X to be the width of your Table Supports from the previous step. You should measure and mark for your exact dimensions but you will likely be mitering the legs at about 51 Degrees give or take. 2 of your legs will be whole (green) and the other 2 will be halved (blue) and I chose to alternate which is which on either side. To fasten the legs together, use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. To fasten to the Table, use 2 1/2” screws and secure to the table supports on the outside, or use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to secure to the table top. or both…

Step 4
Step 4

Attach the Truss Supports: Miter for exact fit and angle with an approximate 45 Degree angle on the side that will fasten to the Legs, and a pointed arrow shape with approximate 2 1/2” sections as shown below mitered at 135 degrees (approximately). Fasten to the table top, the supports, and the legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans To Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Chesapeake Picnic Bench for Under $25

03.10.11

We covered plans for the table yesterday, found here, and now we are working on the bench! Yay, I love it when we finish a set or a collection, feels wonderful! Even if it is only virtual building for me, it still feels wonderful, just like progress in real life! The original pieces will cost $999 for the set, ours can all be built for less than $100! Much less since this bench will come in under $25, so that makes a set of 3 pieces closer to $80!!! A savings of more than $900! yahoo… spring is in the air, am I right?

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Under $25

  • 1 – 2×3 at 6’
  • 1 – 2×6 at 6’
  • 5 – 2×4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2×3 at 12 3/4” Bench Supports
  • 2 – 2×6 at 14 3/4” Bench Top
  • 4 – 2×4 at 61” Bench Top
  • 3 – 2×4 at 23” Legs
  • 6 – 2×4 at 11” Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 22” Truss Supports

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build your Bench Top: Join the Boards to the Outer Bread Boards using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. Be sure to use glue that is applicable for outdoor projects. Space the Boards 1/4” apart.

Attach the Bench Supports : Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to attach the Supports or use 2 1/2” screws from the top of the table top and be sure to countersink. The Supports will sit back 1” from the front/back edges and 1 1/2” from the side edges, and should be spaced as shown below. These are not spaced equally I realize, but this is to allow for the center leg unit later.

Fasten the Legs in Place: You want the height of your X-Shape to be about 15 1/2” and the width of your X to be the width of your Table Supports from the previous step. You should measure and mark for your exact dimensions but you will likely be mitering the legs at about 60 Degrees give or take. 3 of your leg pieces will be whole (green) and the other 6 will be halved (blue) and I chose to alternate which is which so that the outside 2 are the same and the center is the reverse. To fasten the legs together, use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. To fasten to the Bench, use 2 1/2” screws and secure to the table supports on the outside, or use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to secure to the table top. or both…

Attach the Truss Supports: Measure each section (all 4) and Miter for exact fit and angle with an approximate 60 Degree angle on the side that will fasten to the Legs, and a pointed arrow shape with approximate 2 1/2” and 2 3/4” sections as shown below mitered at 135 degrees (approximately, so be sure before you cut). Fasten to the bench top, the supports, and the legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

DIY / Entertaining

DIY + Projects Roundup: All Your Eggs In One Basket

03.04.11
Project Image

That Martha, she knows a thing or two, and with her amazing craft department as her support group you can bet you won’t have to put all of your eggs in one basket. How about 3 different baskets, all DIY and budget friendly? Thought so..I am adoring how fun these Easter Crafts are, and can’t wait to give some of them a try! I have Easter on the Mind and I for one will be starting my Easter Decorating today!

Full Tutorials and Instructions for these projects can be found at marthastewart.com: Pussy Willow Nest, Wax Resist Dyed Eggs, Dyed Basket and Eggs, Marbelized Eggs, Decorated Berry Baskets, Egg Shell Votives

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a King Sized RBR Hudson Bed

02.28.11
Project Image

Are you in the dog house for your weak attempt at a Valentine’s Day celebration? Spring yourself from the big house by making up for the error of your ways… Build this for your Sweetheart as a romantic peace offering…. I promise it will work! This is the first part of the full set of plans for building the bed that I am currently building for myself! If you hang out with us on my FB Fanpage, you know that I have been working on my very first “big girl” bed for the last week and a half! Through the process I have fully committed to the fact that I need a NEW SANDER and I also might benefit from investing in some oversized clamps. Sigh…it’s awfully hard to work on a project without having all of the proper tools necessary and you find yourself making compromises..and also learning some new tricks for getting the job done sans specific tools required! I consider the design of this bed to be a sophisticated farmhouse bed with a bit of cape cod or coastal style added to the mix! And this is just the beginning. Part 2 for this bed will come shortly, and will transform this baby into my dreamboat bed! yahoo…

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Lumber
  • 4 – 2×4 at 8′ ** 9 – additional 2×4 at 8’ if you will not be using your own bed frame.
  • 8 – 1×6 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×8 at 8′
  • 4 – 1×2 at 6′ (head/footboard top trim)
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′ (everything else listed for 1×2 cuts)
  • 2 – 2×3 at 10′
Materials
  • 2″ Wood Screws
  • 3″ Wood Screws
  • 3 1/2″ Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4×4 at 42 1/2″ Legs
  • 2 – 4×4 at 31 1/2″ Legs
  • 8 – 1×6 at 71” Panels
  • 4 – 1×2 at 71” Head and Footboard Top/Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 6 1/4″ Upper Foot Side Trim
  • 4 – 1×2 at 11 3/4” Upper Head and Lower Foot Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17 1/4″ Lower Head Side Trim
  • 6 – 2×3 at 72 1/2″ Head and Foot Board Surrounding and Center Boards
  • 2 – 2×3 at 33 1/2” Headboard Surrounding Side Boards
  • 2 – 2×3 at 22 1/2” Footboard Surrounding Side Boards
  • 2 – 1×8 at 82 1/2″ Frame Side Rails
  • 2 – 2×4 at 87 1/2″ Top Trim Boards
  • **8 – 2×4 at approx. 77” Joists for Mattress support (dimensions will depend on exact measurement of your mattress, and this is only necessary if you aren’t using your bed frame)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build your Headboard and Foot Board units. You are going to be building a puzzle essentially, that will fit together and sit perfectly inside a sandwich of surrounding boards. Use glue to attach adjacent boards and sandwich with side trim to secure in place. The Panels should be centered perfectly on the side trim pieces (1×2’s shown in green and blue) leaving equal spacing on either side. Use 2” screws to fasten the side, top, and bottom trim to the panel boards. Use your 3″ Screws to fasten one set of panels (probably the bottom)to the Center Board (red) and glue the top section to it. Be sure the panel boards are centered on the Center Board as well. You want everything to be centered with equal spacing on front and back. Don’t worry about the pieces not being screwed together vertically, this design is not dependent upon it. Instead it will be the side attachments that matter.

Step 2
Step 2

Fasten the Surrounding Boards to the Panels you just created. Use 3” screws and glue to connect. Be sure the Surrounding Boards are centered with equal amounts of overhang on front and back of each unit. Everything should feel nice and sturdy with no wiggle wobble.

Step 3
Step 3

Fasten the Units to the Legs. You will fasten from the inside of the Surrounding Side Boards into the Legs on both the front and back of the unit and on either side. Use 3” screws and glue. The Units will sit flush with the top of the Legs. Once they are secured in place, you will fasten the Top Trim Board in place using 3 1/2” screws and glue. This should have an overhang of 2 1/2” on either side and will sit centered on the units, but flush with the width of the legs.

Step 4
Step 4

Since this is for a King Sized bed, you have a few options where it relates to the Frame. The first option is to simply attach your metal bed frame to the Head/Fottboards themselves and add a Side rail to disguise and beautify (This is recommended for a much faster build and will save you quite a bit of money as well since you likely already have a frame since they tend to come free with your bed sets). You can also create adequate support for your mattress if you don’t have a frame by building a frame constructed of 2×4 joists with dimensions 1” longer than the width of your exact mattress and fasten them to the Side Rails and then to the Legs on the Head/Footboards. This is the recommended frame construction for not using the metal frame with your bed set since the 2×4’s should provide adequate support for the heavy mattress. I don’t recommend using slats for a bed set this heavy..I just don’t see it being the best solution here. Use 3” screws to fasten the 2×4’s to the Rails and use glue. Fasten the first and last 2×4 so that it sits perpendicular to the rails at the very front/back edge so you can use those joists to fasten directly to the head and foot boards. You can also use your pocket hole system to fasten the rails to the legs. I show the rails sitting centered in the legs, however you will want to place the rails at a location on the legs that best fits your exact mattress width. Mattresses are somewhat standard in size, but when you are talking about exact measurements…they are all over the board. You should fall somewhere near 76×80, but you could waver by 1-2” in any direction and this would be problematic if you haven’t secured your rails and joists accordingly.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Wide Hudson Bedside Table

02.23.11
Project Image

We have the most exciting few days ahead of us, thanks to Loren who has so graciously donated her amazing talents for a ton of pieces in our beloved (ok my beloved) Hudson Collection! Can I get a yahooooo… oh you won’t want to miss out on this, so be sure to check in throughout this coming wee to see her talents unfold before our very eyes (hands…you know, cuz we build)!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
  • Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
  • Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
Lumber
  • 1 – 2×2 at 10’ or 2 – at 6’
  • 1 – 1×8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×6 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 10’
  • 1/2 sheet of 3/4” Plywood
Materials
  • **3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig
  • 1 1/4” Wood Screws – can also use 1 1/4” finish nails
  • 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2” Finish Nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2×2 at 29 1/4” Legs
  • 2 – 1×8 at 13” Sides
  • 1 – 1×8 at 26” Back
  • 8 – 1×2 at 13” Side Rails and Side Trim
  • 6 – 1×2 at 26” Front/Back Rails and Back Trim-
  • 6 – 1×2 at 7 1/4” Side Trim on All 3 Sides-
  • 2 – 1×2 at 25 3/4” Drawer Face Trim-
  • 2 – 1×2 at 5 1/2” Drawer Face Trim-
  • 2 – 1×2 at 32” Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19” Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×6 at 13” Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1×6 at 24 1/4” Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1×6 at 25 3/4” Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 13” x 26” Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 12 1/4” x 24 1/4” Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 16” x 29” Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build your Base: Cut, Miter, and Space the Legs as shown in the image below and use your pocket hole system to secure the side and back panels, set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Sides and Back to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink. The Sides and Back will sit flush with the inside edges of the legs.

Step 2
Step 2

Build the Shelf, Frame and Add the Rails: Connect the Rails to the Legs and each other, where applicable and the Bottom Shelf to the Surrounding Rails. Use your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The bottom shelf and the lower rails will sit 4” from the bottom of the legs.

Step 3
Step 3

Fasten the Trim in place. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance, however you can also skip that step and it will still look fabulous. You can fasten the trim to the sides and back using 1 1/4” finish nails or 1 1/4” screws from the inside. Be sure to use glue.

Step 4
Step 4

Build the Drawer: use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the inset bottom and sides in place. You can also use 2” screws and glue to fasten them in place and tack on the drawer face trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue or 1 1/4” screws from the inside and glue.

Step 5
Step 5

Fasten the Trim to the Top using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You can also use 3” Screws and glue, just be sure to countersink, or skip the trim and use iron on edge banding. Fasten the top to the Legs, Sides, and Back using 2” Finish Nails and glue.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

All you need is a valid email address to sign up and vote, it’s seriously easy! Click here to sign up and here for the voting categories… thank you xx, rayan

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Bedside Table

02.22.11
Project Image

I think you will all be excited to know this is another amazing project from our girl Loren. I am so completely grateful to her for all of her efforts for us here at TDC. I have been trying (to no avail) to convince her to don the title of Official Contributing Editor (for whatever that’s worth), but alas she is too humble for such things…Perhaps if we all lobby and group together, we can convince her that she is so deserving of it! I fear we may not be able to work our magic on her, but I want you all to know that she is the gal for whom the credit is due! Thank you Loren!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
  • Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
  • Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
Lumber
  • 1 – 2×2 at 10’ or 2 – at 6’
  • 1 – 1×8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1×6 at 6’
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 10’
  • 1/2 sheet of 3/4” Plywood
Materials
  • **3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig
  • 1 1/4” Wood Screws – can also use
  • 1 1/4” finish nails
  • 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2” Finish Nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2×2 at 26 1/4” Legs
  • 2 – 1×8 at 13” Sides
  • 1 – 1×8 at 16” Back
  • 8 – 1×2 at 13” Side Rails and Side Trim-
  • 6 – 1×2 at 16” Front/Back Rails and Back Trim-
  • 6 – 1×2 at 7 1/4” Side Trim on All 3 Sides-
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15 3/4” Drawer Face Trim-
  • 2 – 1×2 at 5 1/2” Drawer Face Trim-
  • 2 – 1×2 at 22” Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19” Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×6 at 13” Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1×6 at 14 1/4” Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1×6 at 15 3/4” Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 13” x 16” Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 12 1/4” x 14 1/4” Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 16” x 19” Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build your Base: Cut, Miter, and Space the Legs as shown in the image below and use your pocket hole system to secure the side and back panels, set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Sides and Back to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink. The Sides and Back will sit flush with the inside edges of the legs.

Step 2
Step 2

Build the Shelf Frame and Add the Rails: Connect the Rails to the Legs and each other, where applicable and the Bottom Shelf to the Surrounding Rails. Use your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The bottom shelf and the lower rails will sit 4” from the bottom of the legs.

Step 3
Step 3

Fasten the Trim in place. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance, however you can also skip that step and it will still look fabulous. You can fasten the trim to the sides and back using 1 1/4” finish nails or 1 1/4” screws from the inside. Be sure to use glue.

Step 4
Step 4

Build the Drawer: use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the inset bottom and sides in place. You can also use 2” screws and glue to fasten them in place and tack on the drawer face trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue or 1 1/4” screws from the inside and glue.

Step 5

Fasten the Trim to the Top using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You can also use 3” Screws and glue, just be sure to countersink, or skip the trim and use iron on edge banding. Fasten the top to the Legs, Sides, and Back using 2” Finish Nails and glue.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Showcase

Builder's Showcase: My Mitchel Cubby Organizers

02.08.11
Current state: Published
Project Image

I finished these fabulous cubby shelves (plans for them can be found here) a while back, but haven’t had a moment to snap a few pictures to share. This build is so fast, it literally goes together in about an hour, even if you have the worst selection of boards ever…which I did, thanks to my screaming, fussing, tantrum throwing monster mash of a boy. He is so distracting at the worst moments, like while I’m trying to make sure I am not purchasing warped, curved, or wavy boards..which apparently I was! 

Having faulty boards makes a build so much more difficult to perfect, I can assure you.  Getting it right the first time around would have been highly preferable with this particular project too, since most of it is dependent on one type of board, a 1×12. Since you really only need to purchase a couple of boards total to build this plan, if one or both of those boards are problematic, the entire build is problematic. But sometimes going back to fix the error isn’t an option and honestly my complete lack of patience, more often than not, means I will give it a go anyhow and just end up with a frustrating experience overall. Word of advice…leave the kiddos at home if you can (which I never can, so if you can, I’m jealous)! Ugh. you may regret it if you don’t…just sayin… Misshapen Boards = Monstrous Build All in all, it worked out moderately and I don’t notice the flaws that much, which were rather major in this instance.  Just need to pile it full of stuff! Problem Solved! I actually had a board that was wider on one side than the other by almost an inch! But to a glancing eye, not noticeable…just don’t look too closely.

Estimated Cost 

Under $25

Length of Time 

About a week off and on given the *ahem* problematic boards I purchased… 

Lumber Used 

Whiteboards

Finishing Technique 

Oolong Tea by Martha Stewart for Home Depot in Eggshell Finish with a double coat of wipe on poly in Satin finish.

A comment to put in the workflow log.

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Cheswick Coffee Table

02.07.11
The Design Confidential Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Cheswick Coffee Table

This piece marks the beginning of a new collection here on TDC! Exciting right? Now we are still working through a few other collections, but I like to jump around a bit and keep it fresh… This piece retails for nearly $400 once you factor in shipping and tax (eek), but you can build a similar and exceptionally beautiful table for closer to $50! Yay for that. The original (allegedly) has decorative legs on the very bottom which you can opt to purchase and add on to your own build, or you can miter the edges of each leg to create that extra decorative touch if you like. I also love the simplicity of straight legs (they have me at hello, every time…)so feel free to leave them as shown below and enjoy!

$50-$75
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2×3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×3 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 10’
  • **1 – 1×24 at 48” this can be substituted for a plywood or MDF if you prefer, and even for a series of boards (1×3’s, 1×6’s anything along these lines will look fabulous!)
  • **1/4 – 1/2 sheet of 3/4” plywood depending on whether you choose to use a project board for the top or if you use plywood and edge banding.
  • 4 – 2×3 at 16 1/4″ Legs
  • 4 – 1×3 at 16 1/4″ Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 38” Aprons
  • 2 – 1×3 at 14″ Side Aprons
  • 3 – 2×2 at 15 1/2” Supports
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14″ Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 38″ Rails
  • 1 – 3/4” Ply at 14” x 38” Shelf
  • 1 – 2’x4’ project board OR 1 – 3/4” ply at 24” x 48” Top

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build the Leg Base: The Legs will each be a 2×3 and a 1×3 joined to form an almost 3×3 leg post. Glue and Screw Together using 2” screws and a countersink bit to predrill. Fasten the aprons in place, in the center of the inside of each leg or set back 3/4” from the inside of each leg. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the aprons to the legs. Fasten the supports in place. These exist to allow you to attach your top easily from underneath, without the need to screw through top leaving visible fasteners. Attach the supports using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and 1 1/4” screws and glue to fasten them to the aprons. You might also create pocket holes around the apron perimeter for fastening the table top in place in a later step. It would behoove you to do this prior to fastening the aprons in place.

Fasten the Rails in place. Attach the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Note that the rails sit 4” from the bottom of the legs. Fasten your shelf to the rails as shown below, using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.

Fasten the Top in place using 2” Screws and glue from underneath through the support beams. If you desire you can shoot a few screws up into the top through the aprons at an angle from the inside to secure even further.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Benchwright Coffee Table

02.05.11
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Benchwright Coffee Table

Can you tell I’m on a coffee table kick lately? We covered the Cheswick Coffee Table (plans for that are here) and I will tell you it’s because I am in desperate need of a coffee table myself, but I just can’t quite decide on one. See, I need a smaller coffee table, one that is actually more like the size of an end table…this works best since we have a sofa that has a Chaise on one side and still leaves us with room to maneuver around the room.  So I continue my search for inspiration, with full knowledge that whichever design I choose, will have to be sized down to teeny tiny proportions…I am thinking this little friend here, would be fabulous with just the one section rather than both..what do you think?

 

  • 1 – 2×6 at 10’
  • 1 – 2×6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×6 at 6’
  • 1 – 2×3 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 10’
  • 1 – 2×2 at 10’
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8’
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1×4 at 6’
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 1/2 sheet of 1/2” plywood
  • 6 – 2×3 at 16 1/2″ Legs
  • 6- 1×3 at 16 1/2″ Legs
  • 2 – 1×6 at 20 3/4” Aprons
  • 2 – 1×6 at 18″ Side Aprons
  • 4 – 2×2 at 19 1/2” Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 2×2 at 18” Supports
  • 8 – 1×2 at 20 3/4″ Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18″ Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19 1/2″ Supports
  • 5 – 2×6 at 43” Table Top – Center
  • 2 – 2×6 at 27 1/2” Table Top – Bread Boards
  • 2 – 1×6 at 45 1/2” Bottom Shelf – Inside Boards
  • 2 – 1×4 at 45 1/2” Bottom Shelf – Outside Boards
  • 2 – 1×4 at 19 1/8” Drawer Faces
  • 2 – 1/2” Ply at 16 7/8” x 18 3/4” Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 1/2” Ply at 2 3/4” x 19 1/4” Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1/2” Ply at 2 3/4” x 16 7/8” Drawer Backs

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build the Leg Base: The Legs will each be a 2×3 and a 1×3 joined to form an almost 3×3 leg post. Glue and Screw Together using 2” screws and a countersink bit to predrill. Fasten the aprons in place, in the center of the inside of each leg or set back 3/4” from the inside of each leg. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the aprons to the legs. Fasten the supports in place. These exist to allow you to attach your top easily from underneath, without the need to screw through top leaving visible fasteners. Attach the supports using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and 1 1/4” screws and glue to fasten them to the aprons.

You might also create pocket holes around the apron perimeter for fastening the table top in place in a later step. It would behoove you to do this prior to fastening the aprons in place, if you plan to attach the.

Fasten the Rails in place. Attach the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Note that the rails sit 3” from the bottom of the legs. Fasten your drawer guides to the inside of the legs as shown below. Use 2 1/2” Screws and glue. Attach the Top Trim (green) to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.

Fasten the remaining drawer face trim in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock to fasten the lower trim (green) in place and your 2” screws for fastening the side trim in place (yellow), be sure to countersink and use glue.

Fasten the supports in place. The 2 on the outside are 1×2’s and the center support is a 2×2. Fasten in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock for the 2 on the outside and set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue.

Create your Table Top and your Bottom Shelf. For the Table Top, use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the boards together as shown below. For the Bottom Shelf fasten your boards together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.

Build the drawers, you will need 2. The Drawer Face is constructed using a 1×4 and the remaining pieces of the drawer are made from 1/2” plywood. Use your pocket hole system set for 1/2” stock and your 1” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten together. The bottom will be inset and the face will be attached using 2” finish nails and glue and fastened directly to the sides and bottom.

Fasten the Top to the Legs and Supports, use 2” Finish Nails and glue to attach. Attach the bottom shelf to the lower rails using 2” screws and glue or place pocket hole screws all around the edges of the bottom shelf and fasten to the rails using your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you choose to fasten the bottom shelf in place using 2” screws be sure to countersink and pre-drill for the most professional appearance. The Top will overhang the base by 2 1/2” on all 4 sides, and the bottom will site flush with the top of the lower rails.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.