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Plans
This piece is the second piece in our Stuff your Stuff Collection which I plan to complete! So fun and perfect for dual function furniture and all of your living and storage needs! This piece is made to fit the Stuff your Stuff Tower Base we covered here, and is just one stop off in a very fun collection of pieces! Get your drills ready and we can assembly line build this collection!
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig (pocket hole system)– optional and you can secure using wood screws and a countersink bit.
Saw – optional and you can have your local lumber supply make your cuts for you.
Lumber
1 – 1×2 at 10’
1 – 1×3 at 6’
1 – 3/4”x3/4” Square Dowel or Trim at 25” (every store sells this differently, probably a 3’ piece will be fine)
1 Sheet of 3/4” Ply OR 1 – 1/2 Sheet at 4’x4’ and 1 – 1/4 Sheet at 2’x4’ (you really only need 3/4 sheet of ply)
1/4 Sheet of 1/4” Ply at 2’x4’
Materials
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws OR 2” Wood screws
2” Finish Nails
1 1/4″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 3/4” Ply at 42” x 13 3/4” Sides
1 – 3/4” Ply at 23” x 13 3/4” Top
2 – 3/4” Ply at 23” x 13 1/2” Shelves
2 – 3/4” Ply at 13” x 13 1/2” Dividers Middle Cubby System
1 – 3/4” Ply at 13 1/2” x 7” Middle Cubby Small Shelf
2 – 1×3 at 23” Cleats
1 – 1×3 at 21 1/2” Face Frame Rail
2 – 1×2 at 42” Face Frame Stiles
1 – 1×2 at 24 1/2” Trim
1 – 3/4” x 3/4” Square Dowel Trim at 24 1/2”
1 – 1/4” Ply at 23” x 41 1/4” Back Panel
Instructions
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Structure: The Top will sit inside the Sides to keep from having exposed edges on the sides. Secure the Top to the Sides using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue or your 2” screws and glue, be sure to countersink if you aren’t using a Kreg Jig.
Step 2
Fasten the Cleats in Place: These are used to balance and secure the unit to a wall for added stability and use without worry of tipping. They will sit in 1/4” from the back edges of the sides and top to allow for the back panel in a later step. This will keep everything nice and contained without showing exposed edges. Secure the Cleats with your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4” pocket hole screws or use your countersink bit and pre-drill for your 2” wood screws from the outside of the sides. Use glue.
Step 3
Build and Fasten the Middle Shelves and Cubbies in Place: Use your Kreg Jig to fasten the pieces together as shown and then to attach to your unit, or your 2” wood screws (be sure to countersink) and use glue .
Step 4
Tack on the Back Panel: Remove a section (circular) for cords to run through of at least a 1 1/2” diameter and locate the bottom of the hole approximately 3-4” above the bottom of the panel. This will sit perfectly inside the Sides and Top if you have allowed for the back panel as suggested in Step 2. Secure with 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Step 5
Build out the Face Frame and Attach: Use your Kreg Jig on a 3/4” stock setting and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, to construct the face frame. Place your pocket holes in the Blue Rail and then secure to the unit using 2” finish nails and glue. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, simply glue the frame together and use finish nails to secure to the unit.
Step 6
Add the Trim: You will fasten a 3/4” Square Trim Piece 3/4” down from the top of the unit and then a 1×2 will sit directly on top of that perpendicular to it. Secure the 1×2 to the 3/4” square using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails, secure to the unit using 2” finish nails.
Fill any Screw Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired!
Note
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Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel free to link to my plans as long as you provide an appropriate link back. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY / Home
This project was so simple and has had such big impact in my Family Room, that I’m thinking it may be used at other times of the year aside from Easter and Spring! At least I am hoping so, perhaps even hopping so? Like that Easter-ish humor?
Perhaps you can see in the image above that I actually had a little over 2 full stems of Silk Hydrangeas, 2 of which were missing large portions so it worked out to a little over 2 full stems of blooms total.
My cute little egg, isn’t it adorable? I kind of enjoyed it in it’s original state, and thought about leaving it like that, but then I thought that might make for a fairly boring tutorial? Just saying…
This is what the stem full of blooms looks like up close and personal, from underneath. You can see it’s made of tiny individual blooms and like all fabulous silks will do, each one can can be pulled off (and put back on when needed).
This is the step I attempted to get my Monster Mash involved, I figured it couldn’t be messed up at this point and he is always a fabulous taker aparter… so I put him to work! That lasted for 2 seconds and then he got bored, oh well, I tried!
A pile full of bloom-like buds…
Have your Gorilla Glue Super Glue ready, armed and prepped for gluing!
And so began the push-pin-like technique I employed for the entire circumference of the egg. I started at the tip top and worked my way down in a circular pattern with a bit of space between blooms.
By leaving space between the blooms, it allowed me to fill in by placing the blooms for the next row down and between the 2 just above in the prior row, or in an every other type of pattern, or a diamond shaped pattern, alternating positions on each row. Not that this is crucial but I wanted to get the most use out of my blooms to be sure I had enough, which I did precisely! I did this all the way down, and then with a few left over filled in the areas where I had left too much space. Voila, beautiful Egg Shaped Hydrangea Topiary!
Build
For those of you who have read my blog for a while, you may know that I live in Northern California and in a suburb of a relatively metropolitan city. There are still a few scattered country estates or two or three, but having access to reclaimed materials as might be found from old barns or old buildings is not going to be a typical or easily obtainable thing. In fact in good old C-A, you are likely to pay a premium for it, unless you know someone, who knows someone, who has a cousin…and so on and so forth. Of course you can always attempt the long wait and lovingly place your boards outside for the big weathering transformation to take place, let me know how that goes… like in ten years when your materials are nicely weathered and ready for building with!
Well it turns out there is another option, and it just so happens it’s a non-toxic solution that seriously gets the job done. None of this eco-friendly mamby pamby seeming stuff. I’m talking hardcore, reclaimed, weathered finish in a SNAP! no joke…
Something to build, and then Reclaim (not sure what? check out my Plan Index and Pick Your Poison)
White Vinegar
Ultra Fine Steel Wool
Clean Cloth – even a Paper Towel will work
For other Finishing Techniques and Tutorials visit my Finishing School!
I chose to get the plastic container of Vinegar because of the lid mechanism. You know that easy opening and closing white push down cap with a connector to keep it from falling off? Fabulous for easy access and storage. You can use a glass container or any other thing to get this project started, but I liked the 2 birds with one stone aspect of this container.
I poured out about a 1/2 cup of vinegar into another container (actually an older container of the same stuff actually, so as not to let it to go to waste) to make a bit of room for the steel wool. I used a kitchen knife to push, prod, and poke a whole steel wool (thingy)….not sure what you call it, but one of those lumps you see in the bag there, down into the vinegar container. I gave it a good shake, no idea what for, but I subscribe to the idea that everything needs a good shake or stir before it’s ready to use? Then I set that baby outside in the sun to do it’s thang… 3 weeks later, seriously… because my bed building got waylaid by unforeseen events, not relating whatsoever to the amount of time the vinegar concoction required, but rather to my dysfunctional tool cadre and the weather. For you, this will take a few days of sun tanning to get the goods, that’s all. Think of this as the most wonderful Sun Tea you ever did make, and then, don’t actually drink it, that would be terrible tasting, but probably not toxic?
Now, I should mention that I hadn’t actually intended for my Reclaimed Sun Tea to be used on my glorious big girl bed (Plans for building this bed can be found here), but after a full paint job in White, things we not shaping up as I hoped and I needed to make drastic, sweeping changes to complete this project the way my mind’s eye imagined the whole thing going down. So 5 full days of sanding later…not joking…and a sunburn or 2 under my belt…also not joking, I had virtually sanded all of the white paint from the Bed. As you can see in the image above there are definitely still some remnants of the white, but I assumed perhaps they would lend themselves to the drifted weathered, washed out look I was hoping for. I was wrong about that part, but in the end it still turned out fabulously.
You can see in the images exactly how much white remained on the bed, or at least it appears you can see how much is left, but as we shall see in a moment, the procedure ended up revealing that there was in fact more still in tow than I had previously understood. And yes that is sidewalk chalk on the ground in the picture above, and yes the bed did get it’s share of chalk graffiti from my Monster Mash in the course of my week long adventure in sanding. I can only say thank goodness for my newly purchased Sander! It took 5 hours for any fatigue (in my hands at least) to set in! That is what I’m talking about…can I get a yahoo?
Once I was sanded, wiped, and ready for lift off, I took a cut out portion from an old pillowcase to use for the wiping extravaganza. For the Headboard portion of this, I actually used a paper towel, and so that would also work, and won’t make much of a difference either way, you just need something to pour the concoction on so you can wipe it on your boards. Within 5 seconds of wiping this onto the leg of my foot board, the transformation began. It happens fast and furiously! No doubt faster because of the newly and extremely well sanded wood.
Fabulous…can’t you see it?
In the image above I have only wiped the Reclaimed Sun Tea on the Leg so you can see the contrast begin to take form between the area that has been covered and the rest which hasn’t. This first photo below was taken about 7 seconds after I finished wiping on the Reclaimed Tea, true story! And the image below that is how it looked after 40 seconds with only the one Leg having been smothered with the Tea.
After wiping down the entire foot board you can really see the dark areas that I did first (because they are darker, duh..) and the paint that remains really stands out! Told you there was more than meets the eye, eek, but it’s ok it adds to the reclaimed look, or so I am telling myself!
The lighter areas of the wood are actually the areas that had less sanding, the more you sand, the easier the Reclaimed Sun Tea can penetrate.
Below is a close up of the transformation once it was complete!
It was stunning, but since I had something a tad lighter in mind (in my crazy mind) for my bed, I gave it a sanding with a fine grit paper (220) to even it out and lighten it up. And this fabulous silvery gray are what I was left with! Gorgeous isn’t it?
That’s it, so simple, and would not be so contrasty (yep, a new word for you..) and spotty if you simply sanded your build well, before apply your Reclaimed Sun Tea and in fact would likely give you a moderately more consistent all over weathering, which is truthfully what will look best on a large piece of furniture…like a bed.
It looks much less contrasting in the images here, than it did in person, so alas I sanded again, and more, until it was much lighter and more evenly keeled. I will share the finished project with you in just a bit! This should give you a good head start for making your own Reclaimed Sun Tea!
Plans
This piece is a fun addition to our Stuff your Stuff Collection which I plan to complete! This is what goes behind the bed for hide away trolley storage that conveniently rolls right into the opening. It also acts as the headboard for the bed, and the base for a storage hutch above it! So fun and perfect for dual function furniture and all of your living and storage needs! Stay tuned for additional sizes and the accompanying pieces!
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig (pocket hole system)– optional and you can secure using wood screws and a countersink bit.
Saw – optional and you can have your local lumber supply make your cuts for you.
Finish Nail Gun – optional and you can use screws or hammer/nails/finish nail set
Lumber
1 – 1×2 at 10’
1 – 1×3 at 10’
1 – 2×3 at 8’
2 – 3/4”x3/4” Square Dowel or Trim at 6’
1 Sheet of 3/4” Ply or MDF
Materials
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4” Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×3 at 23 1/2” Legs
2 – 1×3 at 37” Front and Back Aprons
2 – 1×3 at 12 1/2” Side Aprons
2 – 1×2 at 14 1/4” Top Trim
2 – 1×2 at 44” Top Trim
2 – 3/4” Ply or MDF at 37” x 23 1/2” Front and Back Panels
1 – 3/4” Ply or MDF at 41” x 14 1/4” Top
1 – 3/4” x 3/4” Square Dowel Trim at 43 1/2” Trim
2 – 3/4” x 3/4” Square Dowel Trim at 15 1/2” Trim
Instructions
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Structure: The Aprons will sit flush with the inside of the Legs on the Front and Back whereas they will sit flush with the outsides of the legs on the sides. Fasten the Aprons to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 2
Tack on the Front and Back Panels: Use 1 1/4” Screws from inside the aprons or 1 1/4” finish nails on the outside. Use glue to secure.
Step 3
Tack on the Top and Surrounding Trim: Fasten the Top Panel to the Surrounding Trim Frame using Pocket hole screws and glue, place your pocket holes in the center panel to attach to the frame, and also in the short sides of the surrounding trim frame, connecting them to the longer trim sides. Tack the top down using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. Center the top on the unit when attaching. Once your top is in place, nail on the remaining trim just underneath the top and trim frame. Use glue and 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. This trim will only run around 3 of the 4 sides (skip the back) unless you want to surround each side.
Fill any Screw Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired!
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel free to link to my plans as long as you provide an appropriate link back. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This piece works in conjunction with the Headboard Base we covered earlier and in fact attaches directly to it! This is such a fun addition to our Stuff your Stuff Collection which all works so beautifully together!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig (pocket hole system)– optional and you can secure using wood screws and a countersink bit.
- Saw
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 6 – 1×3 at 10’
- 1 – 2×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
Materials
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” Wood Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- *2 – 2×3 at 14 1/4” Legs – for a 7” clearance under the bed, add 7” to the actual width of your 1×8’s and that will be the height of your legs.
- *2 – 1×8 at 76” Bed Rails – add 1 or 1 1/2” to the length of your mattress and cut your bed rails to that length.
- *1 – 1×8 at 37” Foot Board – subtract 1 1/2” from the width of your mattress to find your exact required foot board length.
- *2 – 1×2 at 76” Cleats – this length will match your bed rails length above
- *Between 10 and 12 – 1×3 at 39 1/2” Slats – add 1” to the width of your mattress to determine the required length of your slats.
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Structure: The Bed Rails will sit 1 1/4” bed from the Inside Edges of the Legs and will fasten to both the legs and the headboard base using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You will fasten your foot board to the Legs in the same manner only the board will sit flush with the inside of the legs. The Bed Rails and Foot Board will all sit flush with the top of the legs.
Step 2
Tack on the Cleats: Use 1 1/4” Screws from inside the Bed Rails along with glue to secure.
Step 3
Lay down the Slats: These should sit spaced 3 – 5” apart and can be fastened in place using 1 1/4” screws and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
A fabulous outdoor coffee table to go with out fabulous outdoor Chesapeake Collection…though I honestly feel like this entire collection would be amazing inside too!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Jig Saw – optional and you can also use a table saw or circular saw to notch out the corners of the bottom shelf boards.
- Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 9 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’ (if 8’ furring strips are cheaper for you, just purchase 3 of those rather than 2 at 8’ and one at 6’)
Materials
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote if this is for outdoor use 1 1/4” – 2” Finish Nails – galvanized or coated if for outdoor use any size in between 1 1/4” and 2” will work, so I give you a range to enable you to use what you might already have on hand. If you need to purchase I would lean toward the 2” side of the spectrum.
- Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use if need be
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 17 1/4” Legs
- 2 – 1×4 at 16 3/4” Top Side Bread Boards
- 2 – 1×4 at 48” Top Front and Back Outside Boards
- 2 – 1×3 at 43” Front and Back Aprons Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 19 1/4” Side Aprons Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 46” Lower Shelf Outside Front and Back Boards
- 2 – 1×3 at 16 3/4” Lower Shelf Sides
- 12 – 1×3 at 41” Lower and Top Shelf Center Boards (6 ea.)
- 2 – 1×2 at 19 7/8” Frame for Top
- 4 – 1×2 at 19 1/4” Side Aprons and Frame Bottom
- 2 – 1×2 at 43” Front and Back Aprons bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Structure with Legs and Top Aprons : Begin with your Legs and fasten your front and back aprons in place set back from the inside edge of the legs by 3/8” and then do the same for the Side Aprons, use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue . The Front, Back and Side Aprons should all be roughly centered on your legs (this accounts for the 3/8” set back I just mentioned). Then fasten your table frame supports in place, use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 2
Fasten the Lower Aprons and Frame in Place: You can do this precisely as you did in the Step above and use your use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. This time however, the aprons will sit flush with the inside edges of the legs.
Step 3
Construct the Lower Shelf: Using a jig saw, table saw, circular saw, or any other notch making capable tool to create a 1 1/4” deep by 1 1/2” wide notch in the outside 43” boards for this shelf. You will fasten the shelf boards together using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the center boards 1/4” apart to allow for runoff and the elements.
Step 4
Construct the Top: This will be generally the same as the lower shelf except your outside bread boards are a larger board and you will not be making a notch! You will however want to use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the boards together, making sure to separate the center boards by 1/4” just as in the previous step.
Step 5
Fasten the Shelf and Top in Place: I would begin by fastening the lower shelf in place and would very likely use a finish nail gun to do this, attaching the lower shelf centered on the aprons and frame and by fastening the shelf to each apron and frame support along the way. I would then move right along to the top and do this in the same manner. Be sure to center it on the sides and front and back and attach to each leg, apron, and support along the way!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Shopping
When it comes to creating floral arrangements that are within the coastal chic theme, grasses are going to be a safe bet. Found on the first dune line of most every coast, beach grass is a universal sign that the water is near. Succulents are also interesting choice and can be found in a faux variety quite readily. The problem for most people however is that silk grasses and succulents (and most every other silk flower or plant) are relatively expensive. Not to mention that typically when you are creating an arrangement of sorts, you will require several of whatever you are arranging, and this adds in cost rather quickly.
A budget friendly solution, and a general rule of thumb, is to look to your local Lowe’s, Home Depot or WalMart (or any inexpensive nursery type store) for real plants. If you don’t have a green thumb…no matter, because the plants you purchase for decorating purposes will ideally cost you so little that if they don’t make it, you won’t be devastated by the loss, financially.
Since I haven’t seen beach grass specifically, for sale at any of my local plant dealerships, I recommend looking for another type of grass that you enjoy. The varieties are plentiful and you will surely fall in love with at least one. I happen to like zebra grass and fountain grass quite a bit. Most varieties are under $5 or less and once you are done having them in your house, you can easily plant them in your yard if you like. Serves a double duty which is always the most frugal option.
Succulents can be even less expensive at around $2 for a small size and come in a variety of really exciting shapes and colors from pale greens to dark burgundies with light yellow centers. These little guys are an amazing specimen of drought friendly plantings, but they can be tough to plant in certain zones so you should check this out before get your heart set on planting them in your yard.
The trick to incorporating a real plant into your decor or table-scape is to use a material to cover the plastic pot it comes in, and that is removable for waterings. Some options for this are a nice paper or wrapping paper that you like, cut into a square (the diameter of the square should be approx 3x the height of the pot), bunched up around the pot and then tied with twine (or any other material) to hold in place. The idea is that you can simply untie this or slide it off for your waterings. Once the plant is not longer dripping, simply slide it back on. For a nice coastal theme you could buy a scrap of a nautical stripe fabric and do something along the same lines by cutting it into a square and bunching it up around the bot…then tie it. You could also cut a rectangular strip and wrap it lengthwise around the pot and pin it on the inside (similar to turning fabric inside out to sew up the seam) with a safety pin. If you choose to go with fabric, keep in mind that a ragged edge is really ideal for this beachy look – leave it stringy. You could also run a light and uneven coat of white paint (or any other beachy color you like) over the plastic and it would create that shabby sort of look so appropriate for the beach. If you elect to paint, then you may want to consider purchasing a bit of floral moss or peat moss to place inside the pot around your plant to hide the exposed portion of the inside of the pot that you aren’t able to paint with the plant planted.
Also consider keeping a contingent of ceramic or fiberglass pots on hand that your plants (while still in their plastic pots) will fit inside of. I happen to have seen a variety of ceramic pots available at my local Dollar Store a few days ago, that would have worked beautifully for this.
Keep in mind that you don’t necessarily want to actually plant your decorator plantings in a real pot unless you plan to keep it around for a long time – and you have a green thumb. It’s easier to water without making a huge mess by removing the plastic potted plant in sticking it in the sink or to plant it outside when you are finished if you don’t have to dump and clean said ceramic pot should the experiment go awry. Have no fear if you don’t have a green thumb…it takes about 3-4 months to kill a potted plant (not that I know this from personal experience or anything)!
Design
While I perused the available prints at art.com, for works that evoked a farmhouse feeling, one thing came to mind repeatedly: there are no set parameters for farmhouse art. I found myself drifting through birds, landscapes, country still-life's, even modern photography and pop art and always finding a common thread. I have chosen pieces that I am drawn to from a variety of styles, in the hopes that it will inspire you to seek art of your own that speaks to the farm girl or boy in you, and prompts you to take peek at what is available, and learn to love art like I do (if you don't already).
All of the prints pictured below run between $5 and $50 depending upon the size and format you choose (print, giclee, poster, etc.) and can be found on the art.com website, a fav of mine when looking for art prints or artistic inspiration.
Plans
This piece just about completes our first bed unit for a twin size in the Stuff your Stuff Collection! It works in conjunction with the Classic Bed we covered here, and the Headboard Base we covered here. I am really excited about all of the storage and display possibilities for this collection! I hope you like it as much as I do!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Circular Saw or Table
- Nail Gun
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 10’
- 2 – 3/4”x3/4” Square Dowel or Trim at 4’
- 1 Sheet of 3/4” Ply or MDF
Materials
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 22” x 40 3/4” Back Panel
- 2 – 3/4” Ply at 15 3/4” x 22” x 10” Outside Panels
- 2 –3/4” Ply at 15 3/4” x 20 1/2” x 10” Inside Panels
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 15 3/4” x 13 3/4” x 11 7/8” Center Panel
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 20 3/4” x 11 7/8” Center Shelf
- 2 – 3/4” Ply at 8 1/2” x 12 3/4” Outside Shelves
- 3 – 3/4” Ply at 10 3/8” x 6” Middle Cubby Dividers
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 40 3/4” x 10 3/4” Top
- 1 – 1×2 at 39 1/4” Front Rail
- 2 – 1×2 at 12 1/4” Top Side Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 40 3/4” Top Front Trim
- 1 – 3/4” Square Dowel at 42 1/4” Front Square Trim
- 2 – 3/4” Square Dowel at 10 15/16” Side Square Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Structure: You will cut 5 dividers in 3 different shapes/sizes. Note the bottom, top, and back measurement of each divider and connect the top and bottom measurement to get the angle. To Fasten to the back and the Headboard Base, you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. I did not indicate pocket hole placement in the image below given how busy it would make the diagram, but you will want to place pocket holes along the back side of each divider and along the bottom edge as well. Place your pocket holes 2” from any edge and about 6” apart. Screw to the Top of the Base and to the Back Panel.
Step 2
Add the Shelves: You can secure each shelf to the sides, dividers and back using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, or you can tack the shelves in place using 2” wood screws or finish nails and glue. If you think the outside shelves will be susceptible to decent amount of weight, be sure to fasten them using screws (wood or pocket hole) since they don’t have a support divider as the middle shelf does.
Step 3
Add the Dividers: Fasten in place using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue or your 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Step 4
Add the Front Rail: Use your Kreg jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue or 2” wood screws from the outside, or finish nails and glue.
Step 5
Add the Square Trim: Use 1 1/4” Finish Nails and glue to secure in place.
Construct the Top: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the surrounding trim to the top (place your pocket holes on the under side of the top, on all 3 sides that will connect to the trim, then tack onto the unit using finish nails and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
This project took no more than 20 minutes, and that was with many interruptions from my 2 year old and making dinner.
For the rest of the world, this would have been a quick less than 10 minute, but huge pay off project. I found this plate at my local dollar store, so it obviously only cost me $1.
I found this image on www.daddydrama.com, a site to explore for another day.
I printed it out using letter size paper and started cutting so that I would be left with something of a template. If you like this image also, right click and choose save image as…then choose a folder that is convenient and save it. Open the image from your chosen location and print.
I taped it to my plate and carefully held it in place while I lightly painted using a stippling technique (an upright pouncing of your paint brush so that you don't accidentally move your template aside and paint underneath). I chose an olive green acrylic craft store paint by DecoArt (less than $1 on sale!).
Very carefully remove the paper, shortly after you finish with the paint so that you don't have bleeding. Once your paper is removed you can see if there are any areas you might want to touch up.
Since the majority of this image is twig and branch, it doesn't require perfection and is supposed to have a graphic quality. Don't worry if you aren't a skilled painter, this project can be done by anyone.
Note: if you purchase a ceramic plate to try this project with, you might want to consider choosing a paint that states it is for use on ceramic like DecoArt Gloss Enamels.
To touch up, I continued to add layers of paint as each dried, and used the stippling technique, even though I had removed the paper. This technique ensures you are adding paint rather than removing it as regular brush strokes can.
Design
This project couldn't be easier and might even be done for next to nothing. Old magazines, paper, fabric, just about anything can be used to create these cute little bird cut outs. I am providing a sketch that can be used as a template, but you can use any bird image or other image you fancy. Just print out your image and then cut it so you have something to trace onto your paper or fabric.
I chose cross stitch fabric for my background because I liked the color, it came prepackaged and had a texture I liked. It was $3.99 for a 15×18″ rectangle and I used the glass from my frames to cute 2 pieces to size. You can use inexpensive poster board, cardboard would be interesting, or anything you have around the house that will give you a surface for applying your shapes.
I found 2 rolls of gift wrap at Michael's yesterday that were wonderful and wonderfully priced at $.99 per roll. They acted as the jumping off point for the color story I was working with for this project. I also purchased a 54 sheet pack of heavy card stock, patterned papers, sized 4×6 because I don't happen to have access to magazines at this point in my unpacking.
I traced, I cut, I arranged my little friends in a way that was pleasing to my eye, and then I measured for placement. This was the most difficult part of the project, but I began by finding the center in each direction and roughly measured my fabric in thirds. I used Scotch Mounting Squares, that I cut in half, to apply the birds and give them a bit of depth. Hang and enjoy!
DIY / Entertaining
That’s right…living smart means reusing items you already have not only to reduce your consumption and save money, but to help you increase your overall level of supply… throughout the year this means compiling items that might otherwise be thrown out like packing paper, twine, extra photo prints, labels, or pretty papers and materials that you find on packaging from the everyday and specialty items you buy. Look for new uses for standard items like tags and those random items retailers use to wrap or contain their products.
Around the holiday season,your list of items to hang on to should absolutely include gift bags, boxes, ribbon scraps and tags. I like to purchase a package of handmade tags at Sam’s Club every couple of years or if I have the time to make my own, either way I get more than one use out of each tag, and sometimes several! After all, unless you have additional children, the names of your family members don’t exactly change over the years Once those gifts are opened I begin the task of recycling. I sort through the paper and remove ribbon and tags, I fold up and collect the gift bags used and generally discard the tissue paper (it doesn’t reuse very well), and unfold the gift boxes for storage in my wrapping paper and gift packaging supplies. I will untie the ribbon scraps and place into a big ziploc bag for storage. I can use these scraps for appropriately sized gifts in the future or for other decorative purposes like bow ornaments or vase fill. For a gal who is known for her gift wrapping, this has worked beautifully for me by, increasing and maintaining my supply levels for any gift giving occasion. I am never unprepared and don’t generally have to purchase expensive gift bags for every gift giving experience I encounter.