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Design
Belgian Design has all of those things I happen to love. A neutral palette with reclaimed woods, lots and lots of gray, and a healthy dose of white. The textures are incredible and with so many variations of these basics, there is something for everyone within this style. I have chosen some of my favorite Belgian Inspired Interior Images to share with you, I hope you enjoy and that they inspired you to incorporate reclaimed woods and gray tones into your own interiors. Whether you like neutrals or a more colorful palette, gray with various tones of reclaimed or pickled and limed woods are a fabulous backdrop. It works for warm interior palettes as a base, and works for those of you who prefer a more cool and collected interior with lot’s of white. Perhaps the most versatile of palettes to use as a starting point or base for your décor with whites, grays, beiges, neutrals, and weathered or worn these shades and hues are fast becoming a mainstay within many design styles at the moment, and will work for almost anything you might like to do in your home. It knows no bounds from Modern to Rustic and everything in between we see these few key ingredients incorporated everywhere.
Design
I adore this room, and all of it’s textured outdoorsy goodness, mixed with a bit of that antique store vibe. This little girl is one lucky duck with a parent designing for Urban Outfitters, she gets to grow up surrounded by that chic and slightly quirky décor we all know and love. This room turns nursery décor on it’s head just a bit, and I for one am eating it right up!
Zebra Rug…check!
Baby’s first Taxidermy…love it!
A handmade birdy mobile made by Anthro Designer friends? Um, yes please!
Note to self: A grownup settee is such a perfect little addition to a not so grownup room.
I am fairly certain this is the most original and fabulous Art Wall I have ever seen, and I think, no I know, that I need one immediately!
Dachshund lamp, adorable…
Sources
Images and more info on this room found here: Grayhood
Plans
This piece is meant to bridge the previous 2 pieces covered in our Stuff your Stuff Collection which I plan to complete! So fun and perfect for dual function furniture and all of your living and storage needs! This piece is made to fit perfect above a desk…hint, hint!
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig (pocket hole system)– optional and you can secure using wood screws and a countersink bit.
Saw – optional and you can have your local lumber supply make your cuts for you.
Finish Nail Gun – optional and you can use screws or hammer/nails/finish nail set
Lumber
1 – 1×2 at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 6’
1 – 1×12 at 6’
2 – 1×12 at 8’
2 – 3/4”x3/4” Square Dowel or Trim at 6’
1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Ply at 2’x8’
Materials
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws OR 2” Wood screws
2” Finish Nails
1 1/4″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 1×12 at 15 1/2” Sides
2 – 1×12 at 60 1/2” Top/Bottom
4 – 1×12 at 14” Shelf Dividers
3 – 1×12 at 11 13/16” Cubby Shelves
1 – 1×3 at 59” Face Frame Rail
2 – 1×2 at 15 1/2” Face Frame Stiles
1 – 1×2 at 62” Trim'
1 – 3/4” x 3/4” Square Dowel Trim at 62”
1 – 3/4” x 3/4” Square Dowel Trim at 59”
1 – 1/4” Ply at 62” x 15 1/2” Back Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Structure: The Top will sit inside the Sides and you should secure the Top to the Sides using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue or your 2” screws and glue, be sure to countersink if you aren’t using a Kreg Jig.
Step 2
Build and Fasten the Middle Shelves and Cubbies in Place: Use your Kreg Jig to fasten the pieces together as shown set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, and then to attach to your unit, OR your 2” wood screws (be sure to countersink) and use glue .
Step 3
Tack on the Back Panel: Secure with 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Step 4
Build out the Face Frame and Attach: Use your Kreg Jig on a 3/4” stock setting and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, to construct the face frame. Place your pocket holes in the Yellow Rail and then secure to the unit using 2” finish nails and glue. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, simply glue the frame together and use finish nails to secure to the unit.
Step 5
Add the Trim: You will fasten a 3/4” Square Trim Piece 3/4” down from the top of the unit and then a 1×2 will sit directly on top of that perpendicular to it. Secure the 1×2 to the 3/4” square using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails, secure to the unit using 2” finish nails. The lower 3/4” square trim piece will be glued and nailed to your unit. Use 1 1/4” finish nails to secure it.
Fill any Screw Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired!
Note
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Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This collection gets more exciting by the day! I know you will love this fabulous storage piece regardless of how genius you think Martha Stewart is, or not? Inspired by her Craft Space Collection sold by Home Decorator's. This piece retails for over $400 once you include the special handling cost, and that isn't even including the cost of shipping in general! You can build it for hundreds less!
The 3 Drawer Flat File with the Hutch on top!
Tools
Tape Measure
Drill
Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
Saw – optional and can have pieces cut at local lumber supply
Lumber
1 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF
1 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood
4 – 1×2 at 10' (2 at 39″ and 1 at 25″ per board when cutting)
1 – 1×2 at 6' (2 at 25″ when cutting)
2 – 2×2 at 8'
2 – 1/4×3/4 Trim (Lattice Board) at 10'
1 – 1/4×3/4 Trim at 3'
Materials
24″ Full Extension Side Mount Drawer Slides with 1/2″ clearance – 3 pair
6 Drawer Pulls
1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
1″ Pocket hole screws
3″ Wood Screws – if not using a pocket hole system
2 1/2″ Wood screws – if not using a pocket hole system
1″ Wood Screws
2″ Finish nails
3/4″ Finish nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 35 1/4″ Legs
1 -3/4″ Stock at 39″x17″ Back Panel
2 -3/4″ Stock at 25″x17″ Side Panels
2 -3/4″ Stock at 25″x39″ Bottom Panel Bottom Shelf
1 -3/4″ Stock at 28″x42″ Top
6 – 1×2 at 25″ Rails
8 – 1×2 at 39″ Rails
1 -1×4 at 38 3/4″ Shallow Drawer False Front
4 – 1/2″ Ply at 3″ x 23″ Shallow Drawer Sides
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 3″ x 36 1/2″” Shallow Drawer Back
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 3″ x 37 1/2″ Shallow Drawer Front
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 3 1/2″ x 38 3/4″ Shallow Drawer False Front
3 – 1/2″ Ply at 23″ x 36 1/2″ Drawer Bottoms
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 7 1/4″ x 23″ Large Drawer Sides
1 – 1/2″ Ply at 7 1/4″ x 36 1/2″” Large Drawer Back
1 – 1/2″ Ply at 7 1/4″ x 37 1/2″ Large Drawer Front
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 7 3/4″ x 38 3/4″ Large Drawer False Front
6 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 37 1/4″ Top and Bottom Trim
4 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 3 1/2″ Shallow Drawer Side Trim
2 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 7 3/4″ Large Drawer Side Trim
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Create your Plywood or MDF Panels by fastening them to the 1×2's (rails) sitting flush with the inside edge of the 1×2's and using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock or 2 1/2″ Screws, use glue.
Then fasten your panels (attached to the rails) to the legs using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 3″ screws to fasten the panels to the legs, and be sure to countersink and use glue.
Step 2
Flip your unit over and fasten the rails and panels in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and then use 3″ screws to fasten the rails (with panels) to the legs, and be sure to countersink. The series of rails should be spaced 3 3/4″ apart.
Step 3
Attach your drawer glides. Doing this now, will make it much easier.
Build 2 Shallow Drawers as indicated below. The bottom is inset and the drawer is constructed of 1/2″ plywood with a 1×4 false front that sits flush with the bottom of the drawer and is trimmed out. The Drawer front overlaps the sides while the back is inset from the sides. Fasten the False Front to the drawer front using glue and 1″ screws. Use finish nails and glue to fasten the trim in place.
Step 4
Build the Larger Bottom Drawer.
The bottom is inset and the drawer is constructed of 1/2″ plywood with a false front constructed from 3/4″ ply or mdf, that sits flush with the bottom of the drawer and is trimmed out. The Drawer front overlaps the sides while the back is inset from the sides. Fasten the False Front to the drawer front using glue and 1″ screws. Use finish nails and glue to fasten the trim in place.
Step 5
Insert the drawers and Fasten the top in place. Use finish nails and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more… We continue our Dream Kitchen Series with a Single Wall Cabinet. We will continue with door and drawer stylings as well as double and triple cabinet systems.
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- **Kreg Jig – optional, can be done without…but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.
- ** Finish nail gun – optional, but will make the process faster and easier especially if you are working on an entire kitchen!
Lumber
- **You can buy full sheets if you plan to build several cabinets.
- 1/2 sheet- 3/4″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine).
- 1/2 sheet – 1/2″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine)
- 1/2 sheet – 1/4″ Plywood (this will be showing on the sides of outside cabinets, but will not show on the back or inside cabinet walls).
- 1 – 1×2 @ 8'
- 1 – 1×3 @ 6'
Materials
- **Kreg Jig Owners: 1″ Pocket Hole Screws, 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4″ Screws 5/8″ Screws
- 2″ Finish Nails
- 3″ drywall screws or wall dog anchors
- 12 adjustable shelf pins (for 3 shelves)
- 1 pair of overlay hinges door handle
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1/4″ Ply @ 30″ x 11 1/4″ Outside Panels
- 1 – 1/4″ Ply @ 29 1/4″ x 17 1/2″ Back
- 2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 26 3/4″ x 10 7/8″ Inside Upper Panels
- 2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 1 3/4″ x 10 7/8″ Inside Lower Panels
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 10 1/4″ x 16 1/2″ Shelves
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 10 7/8″ x 17 1/2″ Bottom Shelf
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 11 1/2″ x 17 1/2″ Top
- 2 – 1×2 @ 30″ Sides of Face Frame
- 1 – 1×2 @ 15″ Top Rail Face Frame
- 2- 1×2 @ 16 1/2″ Cleats 1 – 1×3 @ 15″ Bottom Rail Face Frame
- 2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Solid Trim for Shelves @ 16 1/2″
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Side Panels to size as indicated in the diagram below.
Step 2
We will begin constructing the interior panels: I have made this so easy for you in the way I have designed this. You don't need a table saw to create Dadoes, or a stopper on your drill for Shelf Bracket holes…it's just plain easy. Cut your interior panel pieces to size (this will be mirrored on the opposite side, so truly you will need 4 pieces total) and mark out the area for your shelf peg holes. You won't need them in the upper 3″ or the bottom 8 3/4″ or so, since you will have a bottom shelf. You can create a template with the dimensions shown below, for ease of use, then flip it around to do the other side. They also sell this sort of thing, and there is no reason why you can't simply mark out your places and drill, just be sure you are accurate so your shelf isn't sloping. Drill all the way through and don't worry about having to put a stopper on your drill. Easy… Space your holes about an 1 1/2″ apart.
Step 3
Attach the cleats at the back of your side panels. It will sit flush with the top and back of the panels on both sides and flush with the top and back of the bottom panel as well. These can be attached using your Pocket Hole System set for 1/2″ stock or with 1 1/4″ Screws from the outside of the panels. This is how you will ultimately attach your cabinet to the wall using your dry wall screws.
Step 4
Attach the Outside Panels, and insert your bottom shelf. The bottom shelf will help you align your interior panels so they “fit” the outside panels properly. Attach the bottom shelf using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock. It will attach to the bottom interior panels. Your outside panels will sit flush with the front of the Interior panels and there will be a 3/4″ overhang on the top and 3/8″ overhang at the back side to allow for the back and a bit of wiggle room later. Tack on the back, it will sit right inside the space created by the outside panels and will stop flush with the cleats at the top. Use 5/8″ screws to attach the interior and exterior panels together along with glue and use 5/8″ screws or 1″ nails to secure the back to the interior panels, cleats and shelf.
Step 5
Cut your shelves to size, attach the solid trim to the front edge using finish nails and glue. Attach the top to the interior panels, cleat, and the back. Use your Kreg Jig to attach from the interior panels underneath set for 1/2″ stock or 5/8″ screws from the top down into the interior panels.
Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) set for 3/4″ stock. Then attach to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails. If you aren't using a PHS, attach the Frame pieces directly to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
There is no reason your little one's have to go without style for their furniture. Big kid style in a little kid's room is the highest compliment you can pay to your cherished ones. Don't be fooled by the name of this bed, this is for boys as much as it is girls. I decided to name this bed, and possibly the collection to follow, after my aunt who recently passed.
This bed is what I would like to term a lifetime bed, and while it isn't a crib also, as most lifetime beds are, this should transition easily into a full sized bed with three of the sides: back, left, and right acting as a winged headboard for a full sized mattress. Just a few modifications will allow for this transition when your child is ready for an even bigger big boy or girl bed.
I will be providing plans for several pieces to coordinate with this, including shelving, storage, a desk or play surface and will be providing plans for adult bed sizes with options for storage underneath, a trundle, or open for decorative purposes and instructions for upholstering this winged headboard if you prefer that! Stay tuned, this should be an exciting collection!
If you happen to be partial to greens, in minty greens and yellows : (this one is my personal fav, and likely the one my boy will be getting in the very near future!)
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Saw
Jig Saw – to create the curved sides.
Drill
Pneumatic Nailer for Finish Nails (Finish Nail Gun) or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.
Lumber
2 – Sheets of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood. A sheet is typically 4'x8'.
3 – 1×4 at 8'
1 – 1×3 at 10'
8 – 1×2 at 10'
Materials
2″ Coarse Thread Screws (drywall screws would be perfect)
1 1/4″ Coarse Thread Screws
1 1/4″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Spackle or Iron on Edge Banding for exposed cut edges.
Cut List
1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF at 52 x 33 3/4″ (Back)
2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF at 29 x 33 3/4″ (Sides)
1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF at 53 1/2 x 11 1/4″ (Front)
9 – 1×4 at 27 1/2″ (Bed Slats) – can be substituted for plywood or mdf, but several 1×4 slats at 27 1/2″ each and spaced about 4″ apart is much less expensive.
1 – 1×3 at 52″ (Bottom Trim – Back)
1 – 1×3 at 55″ (Top Trim – Back)
2 – 1×2 at 55″ (Top Trim – Front and Front Bottom Base)
6 – 1×2 at 52″ (Cleats, various Trim on Front and Back)
2 – 1×2 at 49″ (Trim)
4 – 1×2 at 33 3/4″ (Trim for Sides and Back)
2 – 1×2 at 29 3/4″ (Bottom Base for Sides)
2 – 1×2 at 26 3/4″ (Side Trim)
2 – 1×2 at 21 3/4″ (Trim on Inside Back)
4 – 1×2 at 11 1/4″ (Trim for Front and Sides)
2 – 1×2 at 4 1/2″ (Cleats Supports on Sides)
2 – 1×2 at 3 3/4″ (Cleat Supports on Back)
Instructions
This particular plan is meant to be painted, and uses MDF to allow for smooth paint application, however if you prefer a natural look for this bed, you can use premium plywood for the main components or connect dimensional lumber using a Kreg Jig to join each board, and then carve with a jig saw to create the curved sides. Either option would be stunning.
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Back to a 1×3 by centering it on the 1×3. This should leave 3/4″ on either side which will accommodate your trim later. Use 2″ Screws and Glue to attach.
Step 2
Attach your Cleat Supports, Cleat, and Trim on the interior side of the Back Piece. Use 1 1/4″ Screws and glue to attach the Cleat and Supports. Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails to attach the trim.
Step 3
Cut your sides to size and carve out a half circle arc, using a Jig Saw. You will want begin your arc 1 1/2″ in along the top and 3/4″ in from the side edge to allow for trim placement later. I have given the dimensions your arc should be applied and you can simply hand draw a relatively similar shape as shown in the image below and cut. This doesn't have to replicate my arc exactly, it simply needs to begin no higher than 11 1/4″ in height along the side and to allow for trim placement. Otherwise this exact shape is at your discretion. Make it steep and highly curved or loose and low like mine. I suggest drawing on one side and cutting, then using that side as a template for the next side to ensure accuracy.
** Optional- you can cut 2 – 1.5″ wide strips of MDF in the same arc as your sides to trim out the upper part of your sides.
Step 4
Attach the Sides to the Back Piece: Use 2″ Screws and Glue, the sides should be flush with the outside (back) of the back piece as well as the top of the back piece, but will be 3/4″ shorter than the back and it's bottom trim are. This will allow for the bottom trim on the sides to be attached in the next step.
Step 5
Attach the bottom trim for the Sides, use a 1×2 leaving the overhang on the outside of the Side. This will accommodate the trim later. this will extend 3/4″ beyond the back edge of the side and be flush with the front edge of the side.
Step 6
Attach the trim to the outside of the Sides and the Inner Cleat Support: Use 1 1/4″ Finish nails on the outside Trim and 1 1/4″ Screws on the Cleat Support. The cleat Support will be flush with the ground and bottom of the Base trim. It will not rest on the base trim itself. The 11 1/4″ Trim piece will sit 3/4″ beyond the edge of the Side itself to create a pocket for the front to sit in and to cover the edge of the front piece.
Step 7
Attach the Front to the Sides: Use 1 1/4″ Screws to attach to the sides and 1 1/4″ Finish Nails to fasten to the Side Trim. Attach the base trim to the Front piece with 1 1/4″ Screws and allow the 3/4″ overhang of the trim to lie on the front side. This will accommodate the trim later.
Step 8
Attach the Inner Cleat to the inside of the Front Piece: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Glue. It should rest right on top of the Cleat Supports that you fastened to the sides. The cleat supports are not so much for support as to give you a guide for placement and a tad extra support for those rambunctious babies some of us have (ahem…me!)!
Step 9
Attach the front Trim and then cover the top of the front with another piece of 1×2 trim for a more finished look. This top trim will be 55″ in length and will sit perfectly over the front piece and it's trim. Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and glue.
Step 10
Attach the trim to the outside of the back as shown and fasten a 1×3 along the top to finish off (not shown here). Use 1 1/4" Finish Nails and glue.
Add a series of 1×4 slats on top of your cleats spaced 4" apart for setting the mattress on. You can screw them down if you prefer using 1 1/4" screws and glue.
To finish this project well, use iron on edge banding along exposed edges or you can run your finger along any exposed cut edges of the MDF (this will likely only be your arcs) with a thin layer of Spackle. Once it dries fully, you can sand it flush and finish as desired. Prime first, then paint and make sure to seal with a polyurethane. If you intend to paint a light color, an aerosol lacquer will be more ideal as it is just as durable but does not yellow in time as Poly does.
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I know, super cute, right? I think I would like one in every color lining the wall in my little boys room! Boys can like pink too, right?
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Saw – to cut your pieces to size.
Jig Saw – to create the arc (you can also cut out a rectangular shape if you prefer and avoid the Jig Saw)
Drill
Pneumatic Nailer (Nail Gun) or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.
Lumber
1 – Sheet of 3/4″ MDF @ 4' x 8'
3 – 1×2 @ 10'
1 – 1×3 at 6'
Materials
2″ Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)
2″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Spackle
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 3/4″ MDF @ 36 x 12 3/4″ (Sides Panels)
1 – 3/4″ MDF @ 12 x 12″ (Upper Separator)
3 – 3/4″ MDF @ 22 1/2 x 12″ (Shelves)
2 – 3/4″ MDF @ 12 x 10 1/2″ (Bottom Separators)
1 – 3/4″ MDF @ 22 1/2 x 36″ (Back)
1 – 3/4″ MDF @ 22 1/2 x 6″ (Front Piece)
1 – 3/4″ MDF @ 24 x 6 3/4″ (Top)
4 – 1×2 @ 22 1/2″ (Front Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 25 1/2″ (Front Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 30″ (Front and Side Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 36 3/4″ (Side Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 9 3/4″ (Side Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 5 1/4″ (Side Trim)
1 – 1×3 @ 25 1/2″ (Trim for Top of Front Section)
Instructions
This is really easy to build and you should have no problem with it. The most difficult portion of this is using a Jig Saw to create the curved cut out near the top. You can do this quite easily by drawing out the arc on one side panel, cut it out, then use that as a template for cutting the other 2. Easy Peasy…
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Begin by cutting your Side Panels and Top Separator to size and then form your arc. I have given you dimensions you need to work within, but beyond that you can make the shape however you like.
Just make sure it cuts away enough to allow for open storage on the top shelf of this unit and keep in mind that the upper 1 1/2″ will need to be relatively flat to allow for the trim to be flush and flat later. Otherwise, make the arc as shallow or sloping as you like or make it rectangular if you don't have a Jig Saw (or don't care to use one), that would work just as well.
You will need 2 side panels and 1 separator. To ensure they all have the same arc, line up the left side of the separator panel to the left edge of 1 side panel and trace the arc.
Step 2
Build the Bottom Inserts, you will need 2 with these dimensions: Use 2″ Screws and Glue.
Step 3
Attach the Back: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue
Step 4
Fasten the Inserts to the Side Panels and the Back. You won't be able to fasten the shelf bottoms to the interior panels very easily, but this doesn't matter much given their attachment to the back and sides.
Step 5
Build the Top Insert: Begin by shortening the Separator by 3/4″ as shown below. Attach it to the shelf using 2″ Screws and Glue.
Step 6
Attach to Insert to the Unit and fasten the Front Piece in place: Use 2″ Screws and Glue to fasten from underneath and on the sides. Use 2″ Finish Nails to fasten to the Separator.
Step 7
Attach the Top: Use 2″ Finish Nails and Glue
Step 8
Trim out the Sides: Use 2″ Finish Nails and Glue.
Step 9
Trim out the Front: Use 2″ Finish Nails and Glue
Touch up and fill any Nail holes. Use Iron on Edge Banding along exposed edges or you can use your finger to run a thin layer of Spackle along any cut edges, allow to dry and sand flush. Prime with at least 2 coats of primer and paint. Seal with a polyurethane (3-4 coats) to protect your finish and give added durability to your paint.
Note
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Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
We covered a fantastic large planter last week that is sure to be the talk of your next garden party! This fine specimen is the perfect accessory for it, coming in a much smaller size that is perfect for your seasonal plantings and would be amazing paired together with the large planter or on it’s own for a smaller area of your patio (or even inside!).
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Miter Saw– you can also use a table saw, circular saw, jig saw or coping saw to create your mitered corners on the trim!
- Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’ (furring strips are the least expensive)
- 6 – 1×4 at 6’ – I recommend purchasing redwood or cedar fence boards. They are dog eared but they are really cheap and in a specie that withstands the elements well. If you prefer to purchase something other than fence boards I recommend 8’ furring strips as your next best bet, in which case you will need 4 at 8’ 8’ of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing
Materials
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote if this is for outdoor use
- 1 1/4” Wood Screws or Nails – galvanized or coated if for outdoor use
- 4 – Curtain Rod Finials
- Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use if need be
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 20 1/4” Legs
- 16 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Rails and Side Panel Trim
- 20 – 1×4 at 13” Side Panels
- 5 – 1×4 at 17 1/2” Bottom
- 32 – 3” sections of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing.
Instructions
For outdoor use, consider using a specie of wood suitable for weathering the elements. This isn't required but will increase the longevity of your piece. Once you are finished with this build, you will need to drill an ample amount of holes into the bottom to allow for adequate drainage. Don't drill so many holes that you weaken your piece, but enough that you don't have water accumulating and rotting out your planter or your plants!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Begin with your Legs and fasten your rails in place at the 5” mark from the bottom and 3/4” down from the top of each leg. You can use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails to the Legs.
Step 2
Fasten the Side Panels in Place: You can go about this in a number of ways, including using nails or screws and simply attaching the boards to the rails from the top down into the board and also from the bottom up into the board (This is likely what I would do especially if I had a nail gun!). If you choose to use wood screws, be sure to countersink them and use galvanized screws. You can also use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Panels to the Rails if you prefer. The Boards should sit flush with the inside edges of the rails and legs.
Step 3
Attach the Bottom Panels: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the boards in place flush with the bottom rails.
Step 4
Add the Side Panel Trim: Using your 1 1/4” Nails or screws, fasten the side trim in place. They should sit about 2” from the rails.
Step 5
Add the Trim and Finials: This portion is optional but really seems to add a little something extra to this project. You will need 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing. The diagram shows a cove style molding, but this is where you can personalize your piece and customize it according to your other outdoor pieces. For the Most professional application of molding, you should miter or cope the corners and using finish nails and glue attach to the legs. Once you have your top trim in place, you can attach your finials. I recommend basic curtain rod finials and again you can choose any style you prefer! I chose round for this plan, but there are dozens of finial styles available that would work smashingly with this plan!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I'm excited to say this is our very first set of plans in the new format in our new home! If you haven't been over to check out the new site, you definitely should, I think you will be quite pleased! Members who register will be able to save projects in their bookmarks folder on their profile page, so if this is a project you adore, head over and register and start saving your faves!
Let's get down to business…
A fabulous media console to go with the other pieces in our Stuff your Stuff Collection! This would be amazing in a kid's room or playroom but frankly this would be perfect in the family room as well!
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Jig Saw – optional and you can also use a table saw or circular saw to notch out the corners of the shelf boards.
Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
Lumber
1 – 2×3 at 10' or 2 at 6'
5 – 1×2 at 8'
1 – 1×3 at 10' or 2 at 6'
1/2 Sheet of 1/4″ Ply at 4'x4'
1/2 Sheet of 3/4″ Ply at 4'x4'
1 Sheet of 3/4″ Ply
Materials
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4” Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
5 – 2×3 at 22 1/4” Legs
4 – 1×2 at 13 1/2” Side Panel Trim
5 – 1×2 at 14 1/4″ Supports
1 – 1×2 at 14 3/4″ Vertical Front Face Frame Trim
1 – 1×2 at 55 1/2″ Bottom Front Face Frame Trim
4 – 1×2 at 26 1/2″ Back Side Rails
1 – 1×2 at 60 1/2″ Front Trim (Under Top Trim)
1 – 1×3 at 55 1/2″ Top Front Face Frame Trim
1 – 1×3 at 62″ Top Trim
2 – 3/4” Ply at 13 1/2” x 18 3/4” Side Panels
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 58″ x 15 1/2″ Bottom Panel
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 15 1/2″ x 17 1/4″ Outside Vertical Dividers
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 14 1/4″ x 17 1/4″ Center Vertical Divider
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 9 1/2″ x 14 3/4″ Outside Shelves
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 18 3/8″ x 15 1/2″ Inside Shelves
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 62″ x 15 3/4″ Top
2 – 1/4″ Ply at 26 1/2″ x 17 1/4″ Back Panels
Instructions
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Side Panels: Attach the Side Panels to the Legs, use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Side Panel will sit in the Center of the Leg. Then tack on your trim using 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue. The trim will sit flush with the outside of the legs.
Step 2
Frame Out the Structure: Attach the Rails to the Back legs, the Front Trim to the Front legs, and the Supports to the rails and front bottom trim. Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to attach.
Step 3
Notch Out the Bottom Panel: Using a jig saw, circular saw or table saw, create your notches in the bottom panel and cut to size. use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and create pocket holes around the perimeter of the bottom panel for attaching to the Unit later.
Step 4
Notch out the Outside Vertical Dividers and Attach all 3 to the Bottom Panel. You can use a countersink bit and screws to attach or you can use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you choose to use your Kreg Jig, place the pocket holes on the dividers.
Step 5
Notch out and Attach the Interior Shelves: use a jig saw or table saw to notch out your interior shelves and use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to attach to the Vertical Dividers. You will want to place the pocket holes underneath on both sides of each shelf to attach them to both dividers they touch.
Step 6
Notch out the Outside Shelves and Attach: use a jig saw or table saw to create the notches on the back of the Outside Shelves and attach to the Divider. Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to attach and be sure to add pocket holes on the outside edge that will fasten to the Side Panels in the next step.
Step 7
Attach the Interior Unit: You will have pocket holes in the outside of the Outside Shelves and along the edge of the Bottom Panel for attaching to the Side Panels and you can attach the bottom to the Supports using 1 1/4″ Nails and glue from underneath.
Step 8
Attach the Top Supports and Front Trim: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the supports in place and 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue to tack on the front trim pieces.
Step 9
Tack on the Back Panels: Use 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue to attach to the dividers and shelves. Using a Hole Saw or Large Spade bit create your holes in the back to allow for cords to exit. You can create one or two depending on your plans for this unit and where you will place your electronics.
Step 10
Tack on the Top and Front Trim for the Top: Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to attach.
Fill and nail or screw holes, sand, and finish as desired.
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This plan is super duper inexpensive and simple to make. I just adore the Industrial Chic Style of this piece. Sure to bring a little nostalgic industrial era fun to any kiddo room or adult home office, or any other room for that matter! Go forth and build this, it will take less than an hour (give or take), promise!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 3/4” x 3/4” square dowel at 24”
- 1/2 Sheet 1/4” Plywood at 4’x4’
Materials
- 2 1/2” Wood Screws – not necessary if using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails
- Hardware: Butt Hinges and perhaps a Large Lid Hinge like this to keep it from collapsing shut.
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×2 at 38 1/2” Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 15” Rails
- 2 – 3/4” x 3/4” Square Dowel at 12”
- 2 – 1/4” Ply at 16” x 31 1/2” Chalkboards
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Frames: You will need 2 of these. Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 2 1/2” screws and glue and secure from the outside of the legs into the rails (blue). **Finish (paint, stain, weather, etc.) the Frames at this point if you haven’t already. This will keep you from having to work around funny edges and angles.
Step 2
Paint and then Attach the Chalkboards: Paint the Boards with Chalkboard Paint and allow to dry fully before fastening them to their frames using 7/8” brad nails or finish nails and glue.
Step 3
Finish and then Fasten the Chalk Stand to the Frame: Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails and Glue and Fasten to the Frame.
Step 4
Attach the Hardware: You have a couple of options here: butt hinges for the top of the easel, connecting the 2 sides and allowing them to open and close, and you might use a chain at the bottom to keep it from opening to far, or perhaps a large lid or drop front hinge at the bottom connecting the 2 sides and keeping it open at a certain distance without fear of it closing. I am thinking something along these lines here, Large Lid Hinge attached sideways.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
When I saw this furniture piece, I knew I had to draw plans for it! I just knew…it was like the drafting fates were speaking to me through those fabulous interwebs and calling my name. So, needless to say, the plans were drawn and the fun begins! At least for all of you who might like to build this fine piece of furniture! I suppose I will have to expand my family a bit before I am able to build another activity table, since I already built this one for my boy, (pictures of that are here)! Today’s piece has tons of storage and drawers on both sides, for double the fun and twice the organization!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards. Miter Saw – optional and can use straight cut boards instead.
- Jig Saw – for carving the hand holds
Lumber
- 3 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 5 – 1×2 at 10’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 10’
- 1 Sheet 3/4” Plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
- 2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 2″ Finish Nails or Screws
- 1 1/4” Finish Nails or Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 13 1/2” Legs
- 6 – 2×2 at 27” Side Panel Rails and Supports
- 4 – 2×2 at 40 1/4” Unit Rails
- 38 – 1×2 at 9” Side Panels and Center Divide Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 27” Lower Frame Supports
- 8 – 1×2 at 28 1/2” Drawer Slide Tracks
- 8 – 1×2 at 13 1/4” Drawer Slide
- 8 – 1×8 at 13 1/4” Drawer Sides
- 4 – 1×8 at 16 5/8” Drawer Backs
- 2 – 2×4 at 44 3/4” Top Perimeter Boards
- 2 – 2×4 at 31 1/2” Top Perimeter Boards
- 7 – 2×4 at 37 3/4” Center Panels of Top
- 4 – 3/4” Ply at 8” x 19 5/8” Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 3/4” Ply at 16 5/8” x 12 1/2” Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 27” x 10 1/2” Center Divider
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 40 1/4” x 27” Bottom Shelf
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Side Panels: This can be a bit tricky, but my suggestion when working with a series of adjacent 1×2’s (which aren’t really wide enough for back to back pocket holes) is that you might consider gluing them together and clamping until the glue has set, and then secure them to the Panel Rails (blue) on every other board alternating between top and bottom. You can of course fasten each board the rails on the top and bottom I only refrain from suggesting it given how many screws you will need. But I leave this choice to you. Know that most retail furniture is built almost entirely using glue so you can be sure this is not an issue, but I leave the quantity of screws you use to fasten together each panel a decision for your pocket book! Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. The panels of 1×2’s will sit flush with the inside of the legs and rails as shown below.
Step 2
Attach the Rails and Top Supports : Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to attach the Rails and Supports. The placement of the supports (yellow) just need to be placed so that they sit centered between the center divide you will add in a later step and the Legs/Side Panels. Scroll Below to see the placement of the Center Divide, but you can guess that it will be placed in the center. Just as in the step below (#3) the placement does not need to be precise, but should roughly end up halfway between the half way point…confused yet? heheh
Step 3
Fasten the Lower Frame in Place: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. It isn’t really that important how far apart you space them, I chose to space them equally below, but they are for support and do not need to be precisely placed.
Step 4
Attach the Bottom: Use 1 1/4” finish nails and glue or 1 1/4” screws and glue from underneath.
Step 5
Fasten the Center Divide and Center Trim Pieces in Place: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place.
Add the Slides: Use 1 1/4” screws and glue to attach and place them 3/4” back from the edge on the front and back and the bottom slide track will sit 1 1/2” from the bottom of the shelf or bottom and the top track piece will sit 1 1/2” from the bottom track piece.
Step 7
Build the Drawers: You will be constructing 4 of these, all precisely the same. Carve out the hand hold on the front panel according to the measurements shown below. The bottom will be inset and so will the back. The sides, back and bottom will all sit flush with the bottom of the drawer front. Place the drawer slide or runner 3” from the bottom on both sides and attach using 1 1/4” screws and glue from the inside. To construct the drawer, place your pocket holes in the bottom to attach it to the sides, front, and back. You will place your pocket holes in the back piece to attach it to the sides and you will place them on the sides near the drawer front to attach them accordingly. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 8
Build and Attach the Top: The Top will be constructed out of 2×4’s unless of course you prefer to use plywood with 2×4 surround. Miter the corners on the surrounding pieces and fasten together using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. For the center panel or adjacent boards, place your pocket holes in every other board with the holes facing outward and be sure to secure to the perimeter boards as well. Attach to the Unit using 2” finish nails and glue to fasten from the top or fasten from underneath using 2” screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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Build
We talked about my secret weapon in the last episode of WIYT (that article can be found here) and I showed you why I love that tool so much. Yesterday I had the fabulous experience of building with my Sis in Law and I got to show her the power of the Kreg Jig! To say that it was blowing her mind is an understatement! She was IN LOVE! and will be ready for her own sometime this week! I think she should move right into the Master System, because I am fairly certain I have just helped her develop a new addiction and that it will get plenty of use! I’m curious how many of you have the Jr. and how many have the Master System? I think we should take a poll this afternoon…stay tuned for that! Just for fun of course…
Many of you were asking about my clamps that were seen in the photos, that would be one of my other secret weapons! I wrote an article for The DIY Club a while back talking about them and I will share bit of that with you all now! The article was not only about the clamps, but about what to do once you have the plans… how do you actually get started with your build, and some of my tips and tricks for building, along the way:
“ So You Have the Plans, Now What? How to Actually Build a Rustic Raised Toy Box”
The plans had been drafted for the Rustic Toy Box for a month or so, but I wasn’t ready to tackle the build until my Adjustable Clamp It Kit from Rockler arrived along with my Gorilla Glue. Once those beauties were safe and sound in my hot little hands, it was time to start building!
When you are working with a structure that involves a basic box formation, making sure you are building a perfectly square box is crucial. Sound simple? Trust me, it’s not… To make matters a bit more challenging and fun, when you raise that structure up on 4 legs, a seemingly basic build becomes a lot more complicated. Finding a product like the Adjustable Clamp It Kit from Rockler was precisely what I needed to feel confident in my ability to get this done without any wiggle wobble. Any of you who build, know exactly what I’m talking about! Below is the basic construction plan for this project. I chose to use 2 – 1×8 boards stacked, on the sides, rather than plywood or MDF, to give my piece a bit of that extra rustic and retro style I was going for.
When you are attempting a build, in addition to making sure your sides are squared up, you will also need to be sure your boards are perfectly sized, especially if they will be stacked 2 to a side as mine were going to be. My general practice is to chop, sand, paint and then adjust for perfection. That is simply my personal process and everyone should find a process that works for them. I choose to paint the boards prior to assembly, at least for my basic base coat, because I tend to end up with a more perfect finish, even if that finish will be rustic or weathered later. Note: Weathered does not mean terrible paint application (just something to keep in mind, hint, hint) so avoiding corners and drips works best for me. A touch up later along with a bit of refining for my finish, where I might need more paint, is ideal.
In the image below you can see that as I am ready to begin my build, I have a slightly uneven length for 2 of my adjacent boards. A bit of sanding or a few additional cuts will fix that right up, but this isn’t something to take lightly. Not adjusting for precise measurements will throw me off square no matter how well my adjustable clamps work, since having one board be longer than the other will send my legs askew.
How is that for precise…yep, in the image below it looks perfect. I just used my sander, but only because my workshop (a.k.a. garage) and my saw, were slightly tied up in the middle of a spring cleaning crisis. It would have been faster to use a saw to do this kind of adjusting (without doubt).
Once your boards are ready to be assembled and all systems are go, you will want to put a good smear of Gorilla Glue Wood Glue along your edges, where they will form a joint.
My personal style of Gorilla Glue placement is to run a line along the edge in question, then run my finger along that line to spread the glue across the edge of my board, a bit more evenly. I do this to keep drips from occurring and to ensure that I have glue along the entire edge and I don’t end up with a spotty attachment. Drips along corners and edges are really tough to sand off, or stain over, so avoiding them is ideal!
When your boards are perfected, your glue is in place, you are ready to pull out your adjustable clamps and set them for a 90 degree angle. This will help you fasten your pieces together, without the worry that you are joining your boards at an undesirable angle (as in, anything other than 90 degrees, if you are building a box).
It took me a bit of practice to eyeball about where the clamp needs to sit in order for the perpendicular board to hit at the right spot. The image above is not that right spot, but a bit of easy adjusting and I was ready to roll! The clamps are so simple to use and adjust so easily for the appropriate width of your pieces and for placing or adjusting the location of the clamp to make your right angle. Simply turn the handle in one direction to loosen the grip, then turn again in the opposite direction to tighten it back up when you have it in the right spot. Rock out the gripper at the opposite end of the clamp bar to allow for extra wide pieces, then turn the handle to adjust to tightness. Easy Peasy… Since I was unable to reach my trusty Pocket Hole Jig in the spring cleaning process, I turned to my other trusty friend…the countersink bit and pre-drilled for my screws.
With everything lined up perfectly, and at a proper 90 degree angle, it’s time to make the magic happen! It is just a process of step and repeat until you have each board fastened to each leg.
This simple little item made a seemingly simple build, truly simple. I will honestly say that I will use these clamps until I kill them, if that is even possible…which it most likely isn’t, given it’s make up of amazingly durable hard plastic. I have already tried to kill this a few times (not intentionally, but it’s fairly common practice for me to drop things, kick them underneath something, and then knock that something over on top of them) and to my delight…not even a slight scratch!
Didn’t it turn out amazingly well? Now let’s see if my toddler will actually use it…to be continued on that front! If you might like to give this plan a try, head over here to view the full set of plans, with Cut List and Materials required. Have you been bitten by the building bug? Not to worry…you will be, if you haven’t already!
