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Plans
I believe this piece speaks for itself but just in case it doesn't… This bed is so simple to construct, you will be done in no time! It's also extremely easy on the budget…I see no reason why this couldn't be added to an amazing seating area outdoors as well! If you use outdoor fabric on your pillows or a mattress cover, you will be in business!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 1 – 2×3 at 6'
- 5 – 2×3 at 8'
- 1 – 2×3 at 10'
- 1 – 2×2 at 6'
- 3 – 1×3 at 10'
- 1 – 1×3 at 8'
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
Materials
- 3″ Screws – for outdoor use, choose either galvanized screws or stainless screws
- 2 1/2″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler or Paintable Silicone Sealant if being used outside and painted.
- Finishing Supplies or Sealant if for outdoor use.
Cut List
- 2 – 2×3 at 6 1/2″ (Right hand Legs)
- 3 – 2×3 at 25 1/2″ (Left hand Legs and Center Leg)
- 2 – 2×3 at 75 1/2″ (Front and Back Rails)
- 4 – 2×3 at 34 1/2″ (Stretchers)
- 2 – 1×2 at 75 1/2″ (Cleats)
- 2 – 1×3 at 39″ (End Aprons)
- 9 – 1×3 at 36″ (Supports)
- 1 – 2×3 at 72″ (Front Apron)
- 1 – 2×3 at 29 1/2″ (Back Apron)
- 1 – 2×3 at 40″ (Back Apron)
- 1 – 2×3 at 40 1/2″ (Arm Rest)
- 1 – 2×2 at 45″ (Back Rest)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Frame Rails to the inside of the Legs: Leave 3/4″ Space at either end and use 2 1/2″ Screws and Wood Glue. If you plan to take this apart, you can also use Carriage Bolts for this step.
The top of the Frame Rails should be flush with the top of the Shorter Legs and 6 1/2″ from the bottom of the taller legs.
Step 2
Attach the Stretchers to the Cleats: Use 3″” Screws and Wood Glue.
Then Attach the Cleats to the Frame Rails: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 3
Attach the End Aprons: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue
Step 4
Lay the Slats approximately 6″ Apart and screw in place using 1 1/4″ Screws. Do not glue the slats if you plan to remove them at any point.
Step 5
Attach the Back Rest (Green), then attach the Arm Rest (Red). Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Then attach the Front and Back Aprons: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
We have plans for the beds (here and here) how about some nightstands to pair them with? I adore this collection and I think this will be the direction I head for my boy's room as he gets a bit older.
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
**Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Kreg Jig
Lumber
1- 2×2 at 10'
1 – 1×6 at 6'
3/4″ sheet 3/4″ Ply or MDF
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Wood Screws
2″ Wood Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 25 1/4″ Legs
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 14″ x 19″ Side Panels
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 19″ x 19″ Back Panel
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 19″ x 14 3/4″ Bottom Panel
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 14″ x at 17 1/2″ Shelf
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 17 1/2″ x 23 1/2″ Top
3 – 1×6 at 18 3/4″ Door
Instructions
If you are concerned about an even and smooth finish, consider cutting your boards, then sanding and finishing prior to countersinking and fastening. The minute you create holes or perpendicular surface space, you run the risk of uneven or drippy paint. This is a must for my own personal builds, as I truly do not enjoy chasing drips or an end result with bumpy drippy surfaces.
Using wood Glue for each joint will create a more durable piece. I do not mention this in each step and assume that you are reading this instruction section. If you need to disassemble your build at any point, consider skipping glue.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Fasten your Side Panels to your legs, allow 1/2″ overlap on either leg. Use a #8 countersink bit and #8 -2″ screws and glue. Fasten your back panel to the side panels, use 2″ screws and glue or your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Attach the bottom and the shelf. Use a pocket hole system to set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws or Use a #8 countersink bit and your2″ wood screws to attach the bottom and the shelf. The pocket holes will be placed on the under side of the shelf and fasten into the side panels.
Step 3
Fasten the Trim to the front and sides. Use 1 1/4″ wood screws from inside the side panels and a #8 countersink bit and 1 1/4″ wood screws from the front for the front trim.
Step 4
Attach the top from inside using 1 1/4″ wood screws or use your #8 countersink bit and 1 1/4″ wood screws from the outside (top) to fasten to the legs, panels and trim.
Build the door, use your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4″ stock to join the boards and place your pocket holes in the center board. Fasten with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Hang your door using basic hinges. Choose something of a style you prefer and that is easy to install. The type that simply screws into the door and the legs would be ideal.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, and Sand. Begin sanding at 80 grit and work up to 220 or 320 grit paper to ensure the most amazing finish will follow. Be sure to use some sort of poly to seal your finish, and my suggestion is either a spray on poly in a satin finish or a wipe on poly. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
The Full Sized is perfect for all of you big kids out there that love this bed, and aren't inclined to sleep in a twin! While slightly larger than the twin bed, this version is still a fraction of the cost of the Land of Nod bed, and can painted or stained with any color you desire. Midnight blue is the only option available at Land of Nod and the cost is well above the average cost of materials used for building this bed. With the money you will save by building this bed, you can build several other pieces of furniture and outfit your entire room!
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Kreg Jig – Optional
Lumber
4 – 1×6 at 10' ( Items A and C – 2 per board)
2- 1×6 at 8' (Item B – 1 – Side Rail per Board)
1 – 1×6 at 6' (Item A – remaining Heaboard Panel)
2 – 2×3 at 6' ( Items F, G – 1 F and 1 G per board)
5 – 1×3 at 10' (Item I – 2 per board)
2 – 1×3 at 6' (Items D, E – 1 D and 1 E per board)
2 – 1×2 at 8' (Item H – 1 per board)
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Kreg Jig
1 1/4″ Wood Screws
2″ Wood Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
7 – 1×6 at 54 1/2″ (Headboard, Foot board Panel) – A
2 – 1×6 at 77 1/2″ (Side Rails) – B
2 – 1×6 at 53″ (Front and Back Bed Frame) – C
2 – 1×3 at 47 1/4” (Headboard Legs) – D
2 – 1×3 at 15 1/2″ (Footboard Legs) – E
2 – 2×3 at 47 1/4″ (Headboard Legs) – F
2 – 2×3 at 15 1/2″ (Foot board Legs) – G
2 – 1×2 at 75″ (Side Rails Cleats) – H
10 – 1×3 at 53″ (Slats) – I
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Headboard. Use your pocket hole system to join the Head board rails to the inner Legs and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, simply fasten your rails to the inner leg using a countersink bit and 2″ screws.
Step 2
Fasten the Outside Leg to the Inner Leg. Fasten from the inside of the leg, use glue and 2″ Screws.
Build the foot board in the exact same manner, place the rail 1/4″ back, from the front of the Legs and will sit 1 1/2″ from the back of the front legs.
Step 3
Build the Bed Frame. Just as for the twin size, the Front and Back of the Frame will sit inside the side rails. Fasten the frame together using glue and 2″ screws, then fasten the cleat to the side rails using glue and 1 1/4″ screws. The bottom of the cleat will sit flush with the bottom of the side rails.
Fasten the Frame to the Headboard and Foot Board. The top of the Frame should be fastened at 15″ from the ground or the bottom of the Headboard and Foot Board Legs. Fasten using 2″ screws to the legs, the Headboard, and the Foot Board rails that it will sit against.
Step 4
Cut your slats and fasten in place using 1 1/4″ screws. They should be spaced approximately 4-6″ apart.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Unlike the Clark and Addison designer bed sold at Land of Nod, this bed is a fraction of the cost and can be any color you desire. Midnight blue is the only option available for purchase and the cost is well above the average cost of materials used for building this bed. With the money you will save by building this bed, you can build several other pieces of furniture and have yourself a Merry little Holiday Season…in style!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Kreg Jig – Optional
Lumber
- 2 – 1×6 at 10'
- 2 – 1×6 at 8'
- 1 – 1×6 at 6'
- 1 – 2×3 at 8'
- 1 – 2×3 at 6'
- 3 – 1×3 at 10'
- 2 – 1×3 at 8'
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ Wood Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 7 – 1×6 at 41 1/2″ (Headboard, Foot board)
- 2 – 1×6 at 77 1/2″ (Side Rails)
- 2 – 1×6 at 40″ (Front and Back Bed Frame)
- 2 – 1×3 at 47 1/4” (Headboard Legs)
- 2 – 1×3 at 15 1/2″ (Footboard Legs)
- 2 – 2×3 at 47 1/4″ (Headboard Legs)
- 2 – 2×3 at 15 1/2″ (Foot board Legs)
- 2 – 1×2 at 75″ (Side Rails Cleats)
- 10 – 1×3 at 40″ (Slats)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Headboard. Use your pocket hole system to join the Head board rails to the inner Legs and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, simply fasten your rails to the inner leg using a countersink bit and 2″ screws.
Step 2
Fasten the Outside Leg to the Inner Leg. Fasten from the inside of the leg, use glue and 2″ Screws. Build the foot board in the exact same manner, place the rail 1/4″ back, from the front of the Legs and will sit 1 1/2″ from the back of the front legs.
Step 3
Build the Bed Frame. The Front and Back of the Frame will sit inside the side rails. Fasten the frame together using glue and 2″ screws, then fasten the cleat to the side rails using glue and 1 1/4″ screws. The bottom of the cleat will sit flush with the bottom of the side rails. Fasten the Frame to the Headboard and Foot Board. The top of the Frame should be fastened at 15″ from the bottom of the Headboard and Foot Board Legs. Fasten using 2″ screws to the legs, the Headboard, and the Foot Board rails that it will sit against.
Step 4
Cut your slats and fasten in place using 1 1/4″ screws. They should be spaced approximately 4-6″ apart.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
So, there are DIY Lighting Projects, and then there are DIY Lighting projects…if you know what I mean… These my friends, would be the latter. Behold, Lindsey Adelman, that sweet sweet new bff of mine! I swear it’s mutual? Ok, I mildly promise? Alright, it’s a one way street, what can I say, I am her newest stalker! I came across this first project a while ago, maybe a year ago now, but alas it was lost in the pile of rubble that was my last computer… BUT, then I re-found this, thanks to Pinterest, and was once again reunited with my long lost DIY partner in crime (yes we already covered the fact that she has no clue who I am…let’s move on from that alright! Let a girl dream can’t you?) anyhoo, as I was saying… only to discover that she has 3 full DIY projects with parts and diagrams for 3 separate and AMAZING Light fixtures! *Sigh* I heart her… a gal after my own DIY heart and one whom I greatly respect for not only making an amazing array of lighting that she sells, but finding a way to give back to us little people (as in me, I’m little…) and throw us a little DIY bone! Can I get a Yahoo? Amen
Did I tell you? Amazing…I have my eye set on the first one, without doubt! Though I am always loving a little clamp on light fixture.
Plans
This project is really, really simple and pretty darn cheap to make. In fact it’s also cheap to buy, except when you want to have yourself and entire library full of bookshelves. Now that can get pricey. So, we begin with the Hemnes Collection of pieces, because I need a library of shelves. Yes, this may be selfish, or shelfish? hehehe but I am sure we are still doing something for the greater good of mankind here..are we not? We are providing our fellow men with the satisfaction of building something with their own two hands, and saving them money, lot’s of money, also…we are giving them custom furniture pieces. That’s right, anyway you slice it, it’s exactly how you like it! We make it your way!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Saw .
Lumber
- 5 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 3 –1×12 at 8’
- 1/2 Sheet (2’x8’) of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF
Materials
- **2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
- **3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws
- 7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails
- 2” Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 76 3/4” Legs’
- 9 – 2×2 at 16 1/4” Rails
- 6 – 1×2 at 11 1/4” Side Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 19 1/4” Top Trim (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
- 1 – 1×3 at 19 1/4” Top Trim (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
- 2 – 1×12 at 72 3/4” Side Panels
- 6 – 1×12 at 16 1/4” Shelves
- 1 – 1×12 at 19 1/4” Top (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
- 1 – 1/4” ply at 19 1/4” x 73 1/2” Back Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Sides: Fasten the Panels to the Legs using your pocket hole systems set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 3” screws and glue. The panels will sit flush with the inside of the legs, leaving 3/4” on the outsides to allow for trim later. The panels will sit 4” from the bottom of the legs.
Step 2
Attach the Rails: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system use 3” screws and glue to attach. The rails will sit flush with the top of the legs and panels and on the bottom they will site flush with the bottom of the panels.
Step 3
Fasten the Shelves in Place. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can use 2” screws and glue from the outside of the panels, just be sure to countersink. Place pocket holes along the back edge of each shelf in addition to the sides for attaching to the back side rails in the next step.
Step 4
Attach the Backside Rails: Fasten the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. Then use your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails to the shelves allowing the top of the rails to sit flush with the top of the shelves.
Step 5
Add the Side Trim: Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails and glue to attach.
Fasten the Top and the Top Trim in place: Use your 2” finish nails and glue to secure. The 1×2 on the backside will sit completely flush with the 2×2 just below it, while the 1×3 in the front will overhang on the frontside by 1”. The sides are to be flush with the legs here, with no overhang so that you can stack these next to one another without having an issue with the top overhanging. If this is to be a single unit without others next to it, you can give the top overhang to give it a more decorative appearance.
Step 7
Fasten the back in place using 7/8” finish nails or brad nails and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
If you liked the plan we covered yesterday, which can be found here, this will so nicely compliment it and add something special to a very simple bookcase. To purchase the bookshelf, it will cost you $130 plus shipping and tax if you aren’t close to an IKEA. To build the shelf it will cost an estimated $50-$75 and most likely will come in closer to $50 than $75. Now, if you want to purchase the shelf with a glass door…well that price shoots up by $100 to $230 for this single simple bookshelf. Well that by my standards is not an easy price to swallow. So, with these free diy plans you can add a “glass door” using acrylic inserts and it will increase your building cost by around $40, and perhaps less than $30! Now that, is more my speed, and financial wherewithal. How bout you?
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended. You might also use a router with tongue and groove or mortise and tennon creating jigs or bits. Even a dowel jig would be perfectly fine. You need something to create the door which I have constructed below in similar fashion to a face frame.
Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Router or Table Saw – optional as you can use mirror clips, but you may also use these tools to create grooves to insert your panels into.
Materials
**Clear Acrylic Sheeting – this is the best price I found here. You just need to be sure that if you plan on buying a single sheet to cover both panels, that the sheet is at least 27”x 44 1/2”. Obviously anything that comes closest to that will keep you from spending more or wasting more, just don’t go under.
Plastic Cutting Tool – like this one here
**8 – 12 Mirror Clips – optional and only necessary if you aren’t using a router to create a groove for the insert.
Hinges in a style and type you prefer.
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 1×2 at 69 1/2” Stiles
3 – 1×2 at 13” Rails
1 – Acrylic Panel at 13 1/2” x 21 1/2” if using mirror clips. This will be smaller if you are using a rabbeting bit or a straight bit, even the groove portion of a tongue and groove router bit combo. Lots of options here.
1 – Acrylic Panel at 13 1/2” x 44 1/2” same as above and will be smaller if you do not use mirror clips.
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Door Frame: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 3” screws and glue or any other mortise and tennon or doweling process you prefer. Place your pocket holes in the rails to secure.
Step 2
Attach the Acrylic Panel: You will likely want to cut your sheet using an plastic cutting tool like this here. If you will be securing on the backside using mirror clips, you will cut to the dimensions below and secure. If you will be using a router to create a groove, you will need to cut your panels to the dimensions of the opening plus the dimensions of your groove. This will depend on the exact bit you are using.
Step 3
Hang your door: Follow the instructions that accompany your particular hinge. You may need to mortise out the area under the hinge, but this will depend on the style and type you choose.
Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Lumber
4 – 2×2 at 10’
3 – 1×2 at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 6’
3 –1×12 at 10’ – can also be plywood or mdf
1 – 1×12 at 6’ – can also be plywood or mdf
1/2 Sheet (2’x8’) of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF
Materials
**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws
7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails
2” Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 76 3/4” Legs’
4 – 2×2 at 32 3/8” Rails
5 – 1×2 at 32 3/8” Rails
6 – 1×2 at 11 1/4” Side Trim
1 – 1×2 at 35 3/8” Top Trim (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
1 – 1×3 at 35 3/8” Top Trim (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
2 – 1×12 at 72 3/4” Side Panels
6 – 1×12 at 32 3/8” Shelves
1 – 1×12 at 35 3/8” Top (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
1 – 1/4” ply at 35 3/8” x 73 1/2” Back Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Sides: Fasten the Panels to the Legs using your pocket hole systems set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 3” screws and glue. The panels will sit flush with the inside of the legs, leaving 3/4” on the outsides to allow for trim later. The panels will sit 4” from the bottom of the legs.
Step 2
Attach the Rails: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system use 3” screws and glue to attach. The rails will sit flush with the top of the legs and panels and on the bottom they will site flush with the bottom of the panels.
Step 3
Fasten the Shelves and Rails in Place. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can use 2” screws and glue from the outside of the panels, just be sure to countersink. Place pocket holes along the back edge of each shelf in addition to the sides for attaching to the back side rails in the next step. Attach the Backside Rails: Fasten the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. Then use your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails to the shelves allowing the rails to sit flush with the top of the shelves.
Step 4
Add the Side Trim: Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails and glue to attach.
Step 5
Fasten the Top and the Top Trim in place: Use your 2” finish nails and glue to secure. The 1×2 on the backside will sit completely flush with the 2×2 just below it, while the 1×3 in the front will overhang on the front side by 1”. The sides are to be flush with the legs here, with no overhang so that you can stack these next to one another without having an issue with the top overhanging. If this is to be a single unit without others next to it, you can give the top overhang to give it a more decorative appearance.
Step 6
Fasten the back in place using 7/8” finish nails or brad nails and glue.
Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY
This week’s Roundup of DIY Projects from around the web is a little bit fun, a lot playful, and definitely colorful! I love some of these new uses for items I hadn’t ever considered…you will see what I mean…
Fabric Printing is something I am eager to dive into. Not only for the creative outlet it brings, but also for the dramatic savings involved in creating my own patterned fabric. I love a good thirty DIY Project, and of course I am a starving artist at heart, just dying to break free and join the ranks of the indie handmade creatives. I know you all love the paper poms and flowers, so why not wool?
This coffee filter lantern takes coffee filter crafts to a whole new level and as far as I can tell from the ingredients involved, seems like it will actually function as well! Yahoo! Yarn, oh bright, sweet, fun yard used as a decorative touch on these fabulous gift boxes. I adore this idea and think it’s a fun and inexpensive way to add something really interesting to a simple box.
That Martha, she’s such a genius with her craft punches in patterns… it makes a traditional paper link garland something special, does it not? Cute for a spring time garland or party decoration. Don’t even get me started on this shoe organizer planter, vertical gardening, here I come! I mean… if I remember correctly, I am fairly certain some of them are lined with a waterproof lining? Even if they aren’t this is such a fabulous idea for small space gardening or patio gardening! Or gardening in any form, for any darn reason…
I adore this fabulous felt garland and I think this idea would make a incredible children’s mobile if done in varying lengths! I am in love with the hex nut bracelet, and can say it’s not only an amazing bracelet but would also be wonderful as a necklace or little belt. This takes hardware store chic to an extremely fashionable end of the spectrum.
Plans
Yahoo for Loren for bringing us this amazing plan! One more project from the request list completed! Check, Check, and Yahoo! My posts are going to be a bit intermittent for the next few days, or at least posted at very odd times. We are traveling for a very unexpected death in the family and my hours will be odd and sparse to say the least. But I am glad to report we survived a very harrowing experience through the Sierras, with only one almost, sort of, spinning tire event and several major road closures and of course a mere 6 hours to get from El Dorado Hills to Tahoe. This normally takes no more than 2 hours in moderately bad weather. Today however, the weather was traumatizing and I am happy to be alive!
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Jig Saw – for the decorative accents at the bottom
Circular Saw, Table Saw or Router to create grooves in plywood – this is optional as you can also choose to join boards together for the same look.
Lumber
1 – 2×2 at 10’
2 – 2×2 at 8’
3 – 1×2 at 10’
1 – 1×2 at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 6’
1 –1×6 at 10’
1 Sheet 3/4” Plywood
**1/2 Sheet (4’x4’) of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF (optional if you choose to add a back and how large you want that back, see below)
Materials
**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws
2” Finish Nails
Hardware: Hinges and decorative hardware for doors and drawer if desired
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 28” Legs
2 – 2×2 at 17” Side Panel Rails
4 – 2×2 at 37” Front and Back Rails
2 – 1×2 at 37” Front and Back Rails
17 – 1×2 at 17” Side Panel Rails Supports
2 – 1×2 at 14 3/4” Vertical Front and Back Stiles
8 – 1×2 at 14 5/8” Door Frames
2 – 1×6 at 15 1/4” Drawer Sides
1 – 1×6 at 35 3/8” Drawer Back
1 – 1×6 at 36 7/8” Drawer Front
1 – 3/4” ply at 35 3/8” x 14 1/2” Drawer Bottom
2 – 3/4” Ply at 17” x 22 1/4” Side Panel Inserts (this can also be 6 – 1×6 at 22 1/4”)
2 – 3/4” ply at 14 5/8” x 11 5/8” Door Panels (this can also be boards joined)
2 – 3/4” ply at 17” x 37” Top and Shelf
1 – 1/4” ply at 24 1/8” x 40” Back Panel (this is optional or at least can be sized according to your needs. By leaving this open in the back you don’t have to worry about plugs, however it will look more polished with a back in place and a strategic hole for cords.
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Sides: Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Fasten the Panels to the Legs and the rail using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. To secure the lower rail, secure to the legs If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 3” screws and glue. The panels will sit centered on the legs. The panels will sit 3 7/8” from the bottom of the legs.
Step 2
Attach the Rails and Vertical Pieces: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system use 3” screws and glue to attach. The rails will sit flush with the top of the legs and panels and the Lower Rails (1×2’s) will sit 3 7/8” from the bottom and should be fastened in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 3
Fasten the Supports in place: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can use 3” screws and glue from the outside of the rails, just be sure to countersink. The placement for the supports will be the same on the top and bottom rows, however the middle row will have a wider spread for the outside 2 supports, all others will be spaced precisely the same distance, though it isn’t really that important you aim for perfect accuracy here.
Step 4
Carve the Decorative Pieces: Cut 2 1/2” squares and then carve an arc from one corner at about a 2” radius. Fasten in place using Finish Nails and glue.
Step 5
Create the Doors and Drawer: You have the choice again to use either plywood for the door panels and to route out 2 grooves as shown below or to join 3 boards together side by side and then surround by the frame pieces. If you choose to do the boards joined together, use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. To build the drawer you can use 1×6’s for the front, back, and sides, and can use your router to carve grooves into the drawer face, or if this isn’t an option, simply use a 1×6 on either side of a 1×2 to create the drawer front, join together using your pocket hole system. The bottom of the drawer will be inset as will the back. Join the back to the sides using your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Join the sides to the front using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the bottom to the front, back and sides, using your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can build the drawer using 2” screws and glue and the doors using 3” screws and glue.
Step 6
Add the Top and the Shelf: Use Finish Nails and glue to secure or secure from underneath using screws and glue through the supports.
Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
So this plan begins a new series of pieces, and yes we are in the midst of a few other collections but hey, why not keep it interesting, no? This collection is fun, and function, true to the PB Teen methodology of things…I can see that this would serve the needs of teens, kids, and adults alike, so I won’t limit you by suggesting this can only be dorm or teen related pieces.
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
**Jig Saw, hole saw bit – for the plug holes in back panel if desired
Lumber
1 – 1×2 at 6’
1 – 1×3 at 6’
1 Sheet 3/4” Plywood
**1/2 Sheet (4’x4’) of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF (optional if you choose to add a back and how large you want that back, see below)
Materials
**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
2” Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 1×2 at 29 1/4” Face Frame Stiles
2 – 1×3 at 21 1/2” Face Frame Rails
1 – 3/4” Ply at 24 1/2” x 24 1/2” Top
2 – 3/4” Ply at 22 3/4” x 23” Shelves
2 – 3/4” Ply at 22 3/4” x 29 1/4” Sides
1 – 1/4” ply at 24 1/2” x 29 1/4” Back Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Box: Fasten the Shelves to the Sides. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 2
Build the Face Frame and Attach: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue with your pocket holes place in the rails (blue). Attach the Face Frame to the box using 2” Finish Nails and Glue.
Step 3
Fasten the Back in place: Use 7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails and Glue to Attach. If you plan to house electronics in this piece, consider cutting a circular hole in the back in the appropriate place.
Step 4
Attach the Top: Fasten in place using 2” Finish Nails and glue. The top will only overhang on the front and will sit flush with the back and sides.
Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This plan is soooo much fun! Thank you to Loren for sending it our way! Isn’t she a doll? Yes indeed! I love that it functions as a bar cart, media stand, dining buffet, and any other thing you might desire!
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 10’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×12 at 10’
- 1/2 Sheet 3/4” Plywood at 4’x4’
Materials
Hardware: all options are optional and style specific, choose to suit your purpose and budget.
- 2 Large Cart Wheels or 2 Small Wagon Style Wheels at 13” (can be wooden and painted)
- 2 – 6” Castors
- 1 – 16-18” Towel Rod or a very Large Long Drawer Pull Handle
- 1 – Bottle Opener
Cut List
- 4 – 2×4 at 28 3/4” Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 40” Lower Shelf Frame Aprons
- 2 – 2×4 at 16 1/2” Lower Shelf Frame Aprons
- 10 – 1×2 at 16 1/2” Support Rails
- 2 – 2×2 at 40” Center Shelf Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 16 1/2” Center Shelf Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 8 1/2” Center Dividers
- 2 – 2×2 at 22 1/2” Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 55” Top Frame
- 2 – 1×12 at 55” Top
- 2 – 3/4” Ply at 44” x 16 1/2” Shelves
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Sides: Fasten the Aprons to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Fasten the Aprons Flush with the outside of each leg.
Step 2
Attach the Rails and Center Shelf Frame: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to attach the Shelf Frame and your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails in place. The rails will sit flush with the bottom of the Aprons and Legs for the Lower Level and flush with the bottom of the Shelf Frame for the Center or Middle Level. Space the Rails in the relative fashion as shown below. Their exact position doesn’t need to be precise.
Step 3
Fasten the Shelves in place: Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails and Glue and Fasten to the Rails from underneath.
Step 4
Attach the Upper Shelf Frame: For the most professional appearance, miter the corners, though this isn’t required if you aren’t able. Fasten the Rails (Blue) to the Stiles (yellow) using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the Frame to the Legs and Center Dividers using 2 1/2” screws and glue.
Step 5
Fasten the Top in Place: Use 1 1/4” Finish Nails and Glue to fasten to the Frame, Legs, and Center Dividers.
Add the Hardware: Use Hardware of your Choice and fasten in place according to the directions that accompany your pieces.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
