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Plans
I have organizing and storage on my mind and I have been searching for the perfect furniture to build for my own home office and craft room. When I saw this collection, I knew…this is it, what I've been searching for but hadn't quite found yet! Love at first site, I believe that's what they call it…It will be beautiful paired with the Rustic Wall Organizer I posted plans for earlier (found here) and perhaps even work well with the Mitchel Cubby Organizers I have purchased materials for (plans for that posted here).
I have been bitten by the building bug…and it's killing me that I'm not finished setting up my “workshop” in the garage. A major undertaking, I might add. But I know It's close at hand and will be ready for “business” by the end of the month. Let's see how messy my house gets while I try and build indoors in the meantime (shhh, don't tell the hubs, I still haven't scraped up the paint splatters from my last go around indoors)!
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig – optional but will keep your screws from showing and allow an easier build
Lumber
3 – 1×2 at 6' (2 at 17″ and 2 at 18″ per board)
2 – 2×2 at 6' or 8' if that is all your store carries (like mine)
1/2 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 4'x4'
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
** 2 1/2″ Wood Screws – only needed if not using Pocket Hole System
2″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 30 1/4″ Legs
2 – 3/4″ Ply of MDF at 12″ x 17″ Side Panels
1 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 12″ x 18″ Back Panel
2 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 17″ x 18″ Bottom Panels
1 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 21″ x 20″ Top
6 – 1×2 at 17″ Side Rails
6 – 1×2 at 18″ Front and Back Rails
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Legs to size, then cut Plywood or MDF to size and fasten it to the 1×2's sitting flush with the inside edge of the 1×2's. Using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock, fasten your panels to the legs using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and the rails with panels attached to the legs, and be sure to countersink and use glue.
Step 2
Flip your unit over and fasten the rails and panels in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and the rails with panels to the legs, and be sure to countersink.
Step 3
Fasten the top in place using finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
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Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This shelf is relatively budget friendly but packs a wallop for style! A different way to display and store your books and a unique piece in general!
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw – Miter, circular or jig
Kreg Jig
Lumber
1 – 1×3 at 10’
1 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 1×2 at 8’
1 – 1×2 at 6’
1 – 1×10 at 6’
1 – 1×12 at 4’
1 – 3/4” ply at 2’x4’
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2″ Wood Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 1×3 at 31 1/2″ (back leg side panel)
2 – 1×3 at 20″ (front leg side panel)
2 – 1×3 at 14” (front angle side panel)
2 – 1×3 at 6” (top side panel)
2 – 1×3 at 32” (top Shelf Support)
2 – 1×2 at 17” (x side panel)
4 – 1×2 at 8” (x side panel)
2 – 1×2 at 10 3/4” (bottom side panel)
2 – 1×2 at 32” (Shelf Trim)
2 – 1×10 at 32” (V shelves)
1 – 1×12 at 35 1/2” (Top Shelf)
1 – 3/4” ply at 32” x 14 1/4” (bottom shelf)
Instructions
Use your pocket hole system to form the side panels, and wood screws to attach the shelves. Always countersink for the most professional appearance and use wood filler along any seams and adjacent boards to disguise joinery and trim board connections. Be sure to place your pocket holes out of site, when possible, because they will leave quite a hole to fill. Check that your pieces are level and Square after EACH step, we don’t need any wiggle in our wobble here. It will drive you crazy.
**This project has some pieces that are best cut to size as you build, to ensure they fit perfectly. I recommend you not only measure as you go but that you mark the spot where you took the measurement and number your pieces so that when you go to fasten them in place you know precisely where they go.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Create your side panels using pocket holes for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. You will construct 2 of these side panels that will mirror one another. Cut your angled pieces at tad longer than indicated above to leave room for error or adjustment when creating the angles. When possible, join boards by placing pocket holes on rails (horizontal pieces) even if those rails are at an angle.
Step 2
Attach shelf supports using 2” wood screws. The back support will sit flush with the back of the side panel and the front support will sit at the inside (bottom) portion of the angle of the top piece from the side panel.
Step 3
Join the middle shelves at a 90 degree angle, (a right angle) using 2” wood screws and then attach at the top of the x shaped pieces using 2” wood screws from the outside of the side panels. The front of the v will sit on the back of the v to form the right angle. Fasten the top shelf to the supports and panels, use 2” screws.
Step 4
Cut your bottom shelf to size and attach to the bottom piece of the side panels and the front and back legs, use 2” screws. Leave just enough space for your 1×2 trim that sits along the front and back edge of the shelf. Attach the trim using 2” finish nails. If you have3 difficulty using finish nails, you are welcome to screw them on, just be sure to countersink and fill to disguise.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Truth be told, I'm really excited about all of the fun pieces in this collection…but it's this piece I probably need to begin with. I mean what's an office space without a desk, or a Craft Space Table!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
- Saw – optional and can have pieces cut at local lumber supply
Lumber
- 2 sheets of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF
- 1/2 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood
- 2 – 1×2 at 10'
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
- 2 – 2×2 at 8'
- 1 – 2×2 at 6'
- 2 – 1×4 at 8'
- 2 – 1×6 at 8'
- 1 – 1/4×3/4 Trim at 5' (can get a 3' and 2')
Materials
- 2 pair of 24″ Full Extension Side Mount Drawer Slides with 1/2″ clearance
- 2 Drawer Pulls
- 1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
- 1″ Pocket hole screws
- 3″ Wood Screws – if not using a pocket hole system
- 2″ Finish nails
- 3/4″ Finish nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 30 1/4″ Legs
- 1 – 2×2 at 52″ Bottom Rails
- 2 – 2×2 at 25″ Bottom Side Rails
- 1 – 1×6 at 52″ Back Panel
- 2 – 1×6 at 25″ Side Panels
- 1 – 1×6 at 26 1/2″ Center Divider Panel
- 1 -3/4″ Stock at 25″x52″ Bottom Panel
- 1 -3/4″ Stock at 55″x28″ Top
- 6 – 1×2 at 25″ Upper Side Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 52″ Upper Rails
- 1 – 1×6 at 52″ Back Panel
- 2 – 1×6 at 25″ Side Panels
- 2 – 1×6 at 25 3/8″ Drawer False Front
- 2 – 1/2″ Ply at 22 7/8″ x 22 3/4″ Drawer Bottom
- 4 – 1×4 at 24 1/4″ Drawer Sides
- 4 – 1×4 at 22 7/8″ Drawer Sides
- 2 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 5 1/2″ Side Trim (drawer front)
- 2 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 23 7/8″ Top and Bottom Trim (drawer front)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Legs to size, then side and back panels and fasten them to the 1×2's sitting flush with the inside edge of the 1×2's. Once the panels have been fastened to the rails, using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock, then fasten your rails with panels to the legs using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 3″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and the rails with panels attached to the legs, and be sure to countersink and use glue.
Step 2
Flip your unit over and fasten the rails and bottom panel in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panel to the rails and the rails to the legs, and be sure to countersink.
Step 3
Attach your drawer glides. Doing this now, will make it much easier. The fasten the center divider in place. Use 3″ screws or your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Be sure to fasten the divider to the bottom, rails and back.
Step 4
Build the Drawer. Below the diagram shows the layout for the drawer parts. Fasten the bottom in place using your Pocket Hole system set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and 3/4″ stock settings with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue when fastening your sides together, or use 1 1/2″ wood screws if you aren't using a pocket hole system. To fasten the false front in place, use 1″ wood screws and glue from inside the drawer. To secure the trim, use 3/4″ finish nails and glue. Drawer Layout, Build-out, and Trim, respectively:
Step 5
Attach the Top: Fasten in place using 2″ Finish Nails and Glue. Finish the edges with iron on edge banding or consider trimming the top out with 1×2 or 3/4″ square trim pieces to surround the cut edges of your MDF or Plywood (you would likely want to consider decreasing the size of the top if you choose the latter option).
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Home
The first thing you need to know about planting a tree is to take everything you’ve seen city workers in your town do when it comes to planting a tree and banish it from your memory. Frankly, the fact that most of them can do what they do to trees and the trees still grow speaks far more to the fact that it’s pretty easy to make a tree grow than about any knowledge that city-tree planters have. Oh, I know, I’m generalizing and your brother’s best friend’s brother is a city maintenance worker who plants trees in the town three over from yours and he does a great job. Yes, that’s right, I’m sure he does and I’m not talking about him (um, probably).
But the fact is, there aren’t a lot of things you have to remember about planting a tree. The toughest part is just moving the darn tree around. Here’s a primer on how to do it right.
Step 1
Site your tree. Think about where you want it to go, stick something tallish there and let it simmer for a couple days while you make sure you like the location, because one thing trees DON’T like is being moved so pick the right spot the first time. Here I just stuck the shovel in to represent the tree’s location.
Step 2
Dig a hole. You want the hole to be at least twice as wide as the rootball but three times wider (or more) is better. The more compact your soil, the more digging you should do to help the roots spread. The hole only should be as deep as the rootball (you can use your shovel handle to make an approximate measurement). If you have good soil, no amending is necessary. If you feel you need to amend your soil, you can replace up to one-third of the soil with compost or another amendment and mix it in with the soil dug from the hole.
Step 3
Scope out which side of your tree is the best and mark it if need be. Move the tree right next to the hole (preferably with a friend, or several, depending on the size of the tree). If it’s in a container, take a sharp knife and cut the sides of the container away to free it from the container; you don’t wan to damage the crown. If it’s balled and burlapped carefully cut away any twine and strapped and pull away the burlap. Then slide it into the hole, with the good side facing your chosen direction.
Step 4
Straight the trunk as best you can, then step back and look at it from every angle to make sure it’s straight. If it’s not it will drive you nuts for the next several years. Since this tree will be viewed from about 300 degrees, I did several walks around it to make sure it was straight.
Step 5
Double check the depth. I like the root ball to be about an inch higher than the surrounding ground because some settling can occur. Even with the ground is fine too, but deeper than it was in the container is not good.
Step 6
Fill the hole with water. Water is absolutely key to the success of your tree, and I like to make sure it’s nice and moist from the get go. If you need to backfill a little dirt to stabilize the tree, that’s fine, but before I do the full on backfill, I like to fill the hole with water and let it soak into the rootball and the surrounding ground.
Step 7
Once most of the water is absorbed you can back fill. Just fill in the dirt, making sure not to leave big air pockets. You can lightly tamp down the dirt around the tree to stabilize it, but you don’t need to tap dance on it or anything.
Step 8
At this point, the top of the root ball closest to the trunk should be showing, but the edges should be covered up. Do not pile extra dirt on top of the rootball. Build up a little wall a couple feet out from the trunk to create a little moat that will hold in water when you water (you can also use one of the many tree watering devices that provide drip irrigation, which is really the best thing for your tree).
Step 9
Spread some mulch at the base of the tree. Keep it at least 3 inches away from the trunk and don’t spread it more than 2 inches thick or so. You’re just trying to prevent weed growth and contain moisture, not keep it warm. Do not, under any circumstances, pile up tons of mulch in some kind of volcano-type form like every city tree I’ve ever seen. All this does is help choke out the crown of your tree. I also do not believe in staking trees unless it’s absolutely necessary (such as being in a high traffic area where it needs a little protection until it’s strong enough to fend off accidental attackers). Trees that are allowed to sway in the breeze grow stronger trunks that will be better off in the long run.
Step 10
Water your tree slowly and deeply after planting and again once or twice a week (depending on the weather). Drip irrigation works great, otherwise turn your hose down very low and let it slowly water the plant (this can take an hour or so). You won’t need to fertilize your tree for a couple years. The goal for the first several years is to build an excellent root structure, so the best thing you can do for it is properly water. That means consistent watering for at least the first growing season, and possibly another one after that.
That’s really all there is to it. Most small trees can be planted in 30 minutes or less, and given what they turn into in a few years, it’s a pretty amazing return on your time investment.
Note
Erin blogs about gardening, cottage living and her DIY foibles at The Impatient Gardener (www.theimpatientgardener.com). A master gardener, she lives with her husband, Mr. Much More Patient, two Newfoundland dogs and disinterested cat in southeastern Wisconsin where she wishes things would just start growing a little quicker.
Plans
This piece is precisely the same as the Craft space table, plans found here, only this beauty is taller for true craft height use!
Tools
Tape Measure
Drill
Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
Saw – optional and can have pieces cut at local lumber supply
Lumber
2 sheets of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF
1/2 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood
2 – 1×2 at 10'
2 – 1×2 at 8'
2 – 2×2 at 8'
1 – 2×2 at 6'
2 – 1×4 at 8'
2 – 1×6 at 8'
1 – 1/4×3/4 Trim at 10' (can get a series of 3' and 2' pieces)
Materials
2 pair of 24″ Full Extension Side Mount Drawer Slides with 1/2″ clearance
2 Drawer Pulls
1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
1″ Pocket hole screws
3″ Wood Screws – if not using a pocket hole system
2″ Finish nails
3/4″ Finish nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 35 1/4″ Legs
1 – 2×2 at 52″ Bottom Rails
2 – 2×2 at 25″ Bottom Side Rails
1 – 1×6 at 52″ Back Panel
2 – 1×6 at 25″ Side Panels
1 – 1×6 at 26 1/2″ Center Divider Panel
1 -3/4″ Stock at 25″x52″ Bottom Panel
1 -3/4″ Stock at 55″x28″ Top
6 – 1×2 at 25″ Upper Side Rails
4 – 1×2 at 52″ Upper Rails
1 – 1×6 at 52″ Back Panel
2 – 1×6 at 25″ Side Panels
2 – 1×6 at 25 3/8″ Drawer False Front
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 22 7/8″ x 22 3/4″ Drawer Bottom
4 – 1×4 at 24 1/4″ Drawer Sides
4 – 1×4 at 22 7/8″ Drawer Sides
2 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 5 1/2″ Side Trim (drawer front)
2 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 23 7/8″ Top and Bottom Trim (drawer front)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Legs to size, then side and back panels and fasten them to the 1×2's sitting flush with the inside edge of the 1×2's. Once the panels have been fastened to the rails, using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock, then fasten your rails with panels to the legs using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 3″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and the rails with panels attached to the legs, and be sure to countersink and use glue.
Step 2
Flip your unit over and fasten the rails and bottom panel in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panel to the rails and the rails to the legs, and be sure to countersink.
Step 3
Attach your drawer glides. Doing this now, will make it much easier. The fasten the center divider in place. Use 3″ screws or your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Be sure to fasten the divider to the bottom, rails and back.
Step 4
Build the Drawer. Below the diagram shows the layout for the drawer parts. Fasten the bottom in place using your Pocket Hole system set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws and 3/4″ stock settings with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue when fastening your sides together, or use 1 1/2″ wood screws if you aren't using a pocket hole system. To fasten the false front in place, use 1″ wood screws and glue from inside the drawer. To secure the trim, use 3/4″ finish nails and glue.
Drawer Layout, Build-out, and Trim, respectively:
Step 5
Attach the Top: Fasten in place using 2″ Finish Nails and Glue. Finish the edges with iron on edge banding or consider trimming the top out with 1×2 or 3/4″ square trim pieces to surround the cut edges of your MDF or Plywood (you would likely want to consider decreasing the size of the top if you choose the latter option).
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
While we work our way through the Martha Stewart Inspired Craft Collection (yes I will be attempting to complete EVERY piece) I thought I would also cover some of the fun accessories that will really tie this collection and a room together. Let's leave no stone unturned! I will be back later this afternoon with the 3rd furniture piece in the collection, the Standard File Cabinet! Yahoo…
We covered the 21″ Craft Console and the 42″ Wide Craft Console, plans for those are here and here, and this Magazine Holder is made to fit in the opening perfectly!
Here is how they might look if you were to make several for storage goodness for miles and miles!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Brad Nailer (some staple guns have a brad nailer capability…mine does)
- Jig Saw – optional if you want to cut the curved slot from the back.
- Saw
Lumber
- 1/4 sheet of 1/4″ Plywood, MDF or coated Particle board…something hard and stainable or paintable.
Materials
- 5/8″ Brad Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 11 1/2″x10 1/2″ Side Panels
- 1 – 1/4″ Stock at 3 3/4″ x 4 1/2″ Front Panel
- 1 – 1/4″ Stock at 11 1/2″ x 3 3/4″ Back Panel
- 1 – 1/4″ Stock at 10″ x 3 3/4″ Bottom Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your panels to size. This project will most easily (and more perfectly) be built if you are to cut a strip of your plywood at 3 3/4″ wide by 26 1/2″ or so and then cut your lengths for the front, back and bottom. Do this for your side panels as well by cutting a plank at 23 1/4″ by 10 1/2″ and then cut in half. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a more perfect build. You won't have inaccuracies in width that will throw you off square by doing this.
Then on the side panels cut the angle as indicated below.
Step 2
Fasten the front to your sides using 5/8″ Brad Nails and Glue.
Step 3
Attach the bottom panel using 5/8″ Brad Nails and Glue.
Step 4
Carve out the notch at the top on the back panel and fasten to the bottom and the sides using 5/8″ Brad Nails and Glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY
I am excited to bring you a new series here on TDC! This is not a new concept, and others have already joined the bandwagon, but honestly who cares! yahoo. I’m throwing caution to the wind and I plan to bring you a weekly roundup of DIY + Projects for your weekend! This is of course, in addition to my own projects provided for you throughout the week, but it should help round us out a tad here at TDC, and celebrate the fabulousness that can be found all around the interwebs!
So I bring Volume 1 of our DIY + Projects Roundup! Stay tuned for Vol. 2, a green themed DIY + Projects helping us to usher in a little Luck of the Irish!
Links to the Full Project Tutorials can be found at the bottom of this article!
Love this coin purse, would be cute as a little gift bag too! I even think I might be able to make it since it requires NO SEWING!
I am loving how this simple glitter project has such big impact! And I am always loving glitter, and typography… this is the best of both worlds, no?
Adore this cloud rug. Inspired by a project we have in our very own DIY Collective thanks to Young House Love! So simple too!
This project might be a tiny bit tedious, ya? But seriously who cares…it's GORG!
DIY
We will be back tomorrow with some fab new furniture plans, in the meantime I thought I might share some fab projects from around the web!
Spring time is near at hand, and with the welcoming of spring comes a very green holiday too! A bit of spring fling fun is in order, to usher in this green holiday in style! Naturally by style, I mean DIY + Projecting style! After all green is the new black..and DIY is the new Designer. am I right? So let’s take lesson and inspiration from some of these very cool projects below. Let the wheels begin to turn folks… you are in for a treat!
With the first two projects here, I love this chevron tray not because chevron is new but because her method of applying this pattern is a technique that NEVER occurred to me, duh… It's decoupage! That's right, a bit of paper cut in an appropriate lined pattern and applied with glue, then covered with glue. I mean think of the time you might save from not having to cut a stencil and not having to touch up said stencil when your lines go all wonky! genius..
And these green bowls which are labeled as flowers but look quite a bit like clovers to me…made from plastic bottles! Double genius, and a way to use up these items which might otherwise end up in landfills or need to be recycled.
Would you believe this tree mural below is made from string and push pins? I mean… can you think of anything more custom and cool than this? Fabulous!
And the tractor below (at least I think it’s a tractor) while not made the same way, and is in fact appearing to be made from metal and covered in plant life, gives me thought of doing the above project in the pattern below for a boy’s boy (like my monster mash)!
I adore projects that repurpose unique items in very unique ways and the two projects below do precisely that. Nuff said!
Plans
We covered a fantastic large planter last week and the small planter too! They are sure to be the talk of your next garden party! This trough planter will accommodate several plantings and is perfect as a perimeter planter for your patio!
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Saw
Miter Saw– you can also use a table saw, circular saw, jig saw or coping saw to create your mitered corners on the trim!
Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
Lumber
1 – 2×2 at 8’
6 – 1×2 at 8’ (furring strips are the least expensive)
10 – 1×4 at 6’ – I recommend purchasing redwood or cedar fence boards. They are dog eared but they are really cheap and in a specie that withstands the elements well. If you prefer to purchase something other than fence boards I recommend 8’ furring strips as your next best bet, in which case you will need 4 at 8’
8’ of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing
Materials
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote if this is for outdoor use
1 1/4” Wood Screws or Nails – galvanized or coated if for outdoor use
4 – Curtain Rod Finials
Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use if need be
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 23 1/4” Legs
8 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Rails and Side Panel Trim
8 – 1×2 at 35″ Rails and Side Panel Trim
30 – 1×4 at 13” Side Panels
10 – 1×4 at 17 1/2” Bottom
32 – 3” sections of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing.
Instructions
For outdoor use, consider using a specie of wood suitable for weathering the elements. This isn’t required but will increase the longevity of your piece.
Once you are finished with this build, you will need to drill an ample amount of holes into the bottom to allow for adequate drainage. Don’t drill so many holes that you weaken your piece, but enough that you don’t have water accumulating and rotting out your planter or your plants!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Begin with your Legs and fasten your rails in place at the 5” mark from the bottom and 3/4” down from the top of each leg. You can use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails to the Legs.
Step 2
Fasten the Side Panels in Place: You can go about this in a number of ways, including using nails or screws and simply attaching the boards to the rails from the top down into the board and also from the bottom up into the board (This is likely what I would do especially if I had a nail gun!). If you choose to use wood screws, be sure to countersink them and use galvanized screws. You can also use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Panels to the Rails if you prefer. The Boards should sit flush with the inside edges of the rails and legs.
Step 3
Attach the Bottom Panels: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the boards in place flush with the bottom rails.
Step 4
Add the Side Panel Trim: Using your 1 1/4” Nails or screws, fasten the side trim in place. They should sit about 2” from the rails.
Step 5
Add the Trim and Finials: This portion is optional but really seems to add a little something extra to this project. You will need 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing. The diagram shows a cove style molding, but this is where you can personalize your piece and customize it according to your other outdoor pieces. For the Most professional application of molding, you should miter or cope the corners and using finish nails and glue attach to the legs. Once you have your top trim in place, you can attach your finials. I recommend basic curtain rod finials and again you can choose any style you prefer! I chose round for this plan, but there are dozens of finial styles available that would work smashingly with this plan!
Finish by filling any nail or screw holes, sand, and finish as desired! Consider sealing to withstand the elements!
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
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Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This particular platform is technically a full sized platform, however, as you will see in the next couple of days, it's actually the first step in a fabulous twin sized bed with storage. This can be used as is for a full sized mattress or can be built to accommodate a twin after the second phase is constructed! Plans for the Storage Component can be found here
I would like to mention that this project has many aspects that can be modified to taste, kind of like food… You can opt for bun feet, or something a bit like I have done above, a spindly leg…you can choose to use molding instead of 1×2 trim, and you can decrease the width of the perimeter boards and attach half round trim to the outside edge, or keep it simple…This is meant to be adaptable to fit your home's decor and furniture style. You will have these options all the way through this collection as far as trim style and the level of decorative features you choose to add.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Saw
- Miter Saw – optional – if you prefer to miter the trim. Not required.
- Kreg Jig – optional
- Pneumatic Nailer – optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the trim or screws if you are using 1×2 boards for trim
Lumber
- 1 – 1×6 at 10'
- 2 – 1×6 at 8'
- 7 – 1×4 at 8'
- 2 – 1×4 at 10'
- 1 – 1×4 at 6'
- 4 – 1×3 at 8'
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
- 1 – 1×2 at 10'
- 2 sheets – 3/4″ Ply at 4' x8'
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws if you are using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ finish nails
- 5 Legs of your choice in style. These are the type I used in my drawings.
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×4 at 75″ (Outside Frame – wood toned)
- 2 – 1×4 at 57 1/2″ (Outside Frame – turquoise)
- 5 – 1×4 at 73 1/2″ (Bottom Boards – yellow, and additional Frame Boards – wood toned)
- 4 – 1×3 at 73 1/2″ (Frame Boxes in Red)
- 2 – 1×6 at 79″ (Top Perimeter Boards
- 2 – 1×6 at 52″ (Top Perimeter Boards)
- 3 – 1×4 at 52″ (Interior Spacers)
- 4 – 3/4″ Plywood at 14 3/8 x 52″
- 2 – 1×2 at 76 1/2″ (Trim)
- 2 – 1×2 at 59″ (Trim)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
The diagram below is the view from underneath and shows the attachment of the Bottom Boards (yellow) to the Frame. Use 1 1/4″ Screws or your Kreg Jig on a 3/4 setting to fasten boards together. The bottom boards are set 1/4″ down from the edge (technically the bottom edge though in this diagram it appears as if the top edge) of the frame.
Step 2
Turn the entire frame over and attach the 1×3's (red) to the yellow bottom boards. By setting the bottom boards down 1/4″, this now allows the 1×3's to be flush on the top with the 1×4 perimeter. Also attach the remaining 1×4 boards (wood toned) to complete the frame.
Step 3
Begin attaching the Top Boards. I have designed this using 1×6's for the perimeter though you could also use 1×4's and attach a half round trim to the outside edge of that. The boards stop just on the inside edge of the 1×3's that form the boxes on the outside. This leaves most of them free for attaching other boards in the next steps. There will be about a 2″ Overhang for the perimeter boards.
Step 4
This next step involves some style and cost choices…you can elect to fill the entire space inside the perimeter boards with plywood, or scatter 1×4's throughout as I have done to minimize the amount of plywood necessary, or you can line the entire interior with boards of a size of your choosing (I would recommend 1×4's for cost benefit and no smaller than 1×3's or you will be at this for days on end!).
Step 5
Once you have covered your top, attach your trim just under the edge of the board overhang. I have used 1×2's in this example, but you can get as fancy as you like. Fasten with 1 1/2″ finish nails if possible. If you don't have a nail gun and the finish nail set is not working out for you please feel free to screw the trim on using 1 1/4″ screws. Be sure to countersink if you are taking this route.
Once you trimmed out your piece, attach the feet in each corner and one in the center for added strength. This center leg is really not that necessary if you are simply using this as a platform bed, but if you plan to go on to the next step and build the storage console on this, having the center support will just allow you to store more and have that added weight without worrying about it. You will need to drill a hole the appropriate size for the feet and their attachment. You will attach them directly into the bottom yellow boards (yours will not actually be yellow, only mine in the diagrams are).
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This storage piece will actually work with the platform I provided plans for yesterday and will also work well for the additional sizes I plan to focus on this week! Since the storage unit sits on the platforms lengthwise it should be pretty interchangeable for whichever size you need! I am excited that this collection appears as though it is a built in yet retains the beauty of a fabulous piece of furniture.
Just like it's original counterpart, this project has many aspects that can be modified to taste, kind of like food… You can opt for decorative trim, cabinet doors for storage or keep it simple with open cubbies on top.
We are going to build on this collection quite a bit I think, assuming you enjoy the pieces (please comment or Like this project or the subsequent pieces, if you would like me to build on it and adapt it for many uses).
Let's get started!
Tools
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw
Kreg Jig – optional – definitely makes your work appear more professional when you are building furniture.
Pneumatic Nailer – optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the trim or screws if you are using 1×2 boards for trim
Lumber
1 – 1×2 @ 6'
6 – 1×2 @ 10'
2 sheets – 3/4″ Ply @ 4' x8'
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws if you are using a Kreg Jig
1 1/4″ Screws
1 1/4″ finish nails – if you have trouble with finish nails you can use screws instead with 1×2 boards for trim.
3 Cabinet Door handles if you choose to build cabinets and add the center storage console with lift off top.
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 15 1/4 x 73 1/2″ (Front and Back)
2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 16 1/2 x 73 1/2″ (Bottom and Top)
2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 15 x 15 1/4″ (Dividers)
2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 12 1/4 x 16 1/2″ (Outside Panels)
2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 13 x 16 1/2″ (Inside Panels)
2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 24 3/8 x 16 1/2″ (Center Horizontal Panels)
1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 23 1/4 x 16 1/2″ (Box Lid)
2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 14 3/4 x 15″ (Cabinet doors)
6 – 1×2 @ 16 1/2″ (Bottom and box lid trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 20 1/4″ (Box Lid Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 23 1/4″ (Box Lid Front Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 25 1/8″ (Bottom Cubby Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 73 1/2″ (Bottom and Top Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 10 3/4″ (Vertical Front Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 15 1/4″ (Vertical Front Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 30 1/2″ (Vertical Side Trim)
6 – 1×2 @ 15″ (Horizontal Side Trim)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Basic Box, use your Kreg Jig on a 3/4 setting to attach the boards. If you aren't using a Kreg jig, use 1 1/4″ Screws and be sure to countersink for the most professional appearance. Fasten 1×2's to the bottom with the outside 2 flush with the outside of the box, and the interior 2 spaced equally.
Step 2
Build the upper Box, and fasten to the Basic Box. Using your Kreg Jig, you can fasten the red boards to the adjacent center dividers. It won't affect the stability of your unit if you are unable to do this, and you can use glue for this portion if you aren't a Kreg Jig owner.
Step 3
Attach the Cabinet Doors with hinges of your choice after you attach a Cabinet Door Handle of your choice in style. Create the box lid for the center storage compartment and add a matching door handle to it as well, so that you can lift it out easily.
Step 4
Trim out your box lid as indicated below. Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and glue.
Step 5
Trim out the Front of your unit as indicated in the diagram. Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and glue.
Step 6
Trim out the sides of your unit, use 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This beauty is inspired by the Potterybarn Chelsea Collection (allegedly) and will hold a twin sized mattress without the storage unit. That's right is only a platform bed, a ridiculously good looking platform bed, but you get my point right? The storage unit will not fit on this alongside a mattress, unless you make this a sitting area, in which case that might actually work out nicely (plans for the storage unit can be found here and the full sized platform you will need to build along with it if you would like the twin with storage can be found here).
I would like to mention that this project can be modified to taste, kind of like food… Choose bun feet, decorative legs like what I show in the image above, or perhaps a more spindly leg…opt for molding instead of 1×2 trim, decrease the width of the perimeter boards, add half or quarter round trim to the edge of the perimeter, this is entirely up to you! This is meant to be adaptable to fit your home's decor and furniture style. You will have these options all the way through this collection as far as trim style and the level of decorative features you choose to add.
Tools
Tape Measure
Drill
Saw
Miter Saw – optional – if you prefer to miter the trim. Not required.
Kreg Jig – optional
Pneumatic Nailer – optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the trim or screws if you are using 1×2 boards for trim
Lumber
2 – 1×6 @ 8'
1 – 1×6 @ 6'
1 – 1×4 @ 10'
8 – 1×4@ 8'
4 – 1×3 @ 8'
3 – 1×2 @ 8'
**3/4 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF @ 4' x6' you may need to buy a full sheet if your store won't cut one up for you.
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws if you are using a Kreg Jig
1 1/4″ Screws
1 1/4″ finish nails
5 Legs of your choice in style. These are the type I used in my drawings.
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 1×4 @ 75″ (Outside Frame – wood toned)
2 – 1×4 @ 39 1/2″ (Outside Frame – turquoise)
5 – 1×4 @ 73 1/2″ (Bottom Boards – yellow, and additional Frame Boards – wood toned)
3 – 1×4 @ 34″ (Interior Spacers)
4 – 1×3 @ 73 1/2″ (Frame Boxes in Red)
2 – 1×6 @ 79″ (Top Perimeter Boards
2 – 1×6 @ 34″ (Top Perimeter Boards)
4 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 14 3/8 x 34″
2 – 1×2 @ 76 1/2″ (Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 41″ (Trim)
Instructions
You can miter the trim pieces for this project and can modify the style of the trim as desired.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
The diagram below is the view from underneath and shows the attachment of the Bottom Boards (yellow) to the Frame. Use 1 1/4″ Screws or your Kreg Jig on a 3/4 setting to fasten boards together. The bottom boards are set 1/4″ down from the edge (technically the bottom edge though in this diagram it appears as if the top edge) of the frame.
Step 2
Turn the entire frame over and attach the 1×3's (red) to the yellow bottom boards. By setting the bottom boards down 1/4″, this now allows the 1×3's to be flush on the top with the 1×4 perimeter. Also attach the remaining 1×4 boards (wood toned) to complete the frame.
Step 3
Begin attaching the Top Boards. I have designed this using 1×6's for the perimeter though you could also use 1×4's and attach quarter round trim to the outside edge of that. The boards stop just on the inside edge of the 1×3's that form the boxes on the outside. This leaves most of them free for attaching other boards in the next steps. There will be a 2″ Overhang for the perimeter boards.
Step 4
This next step involves some style and cost choices…you can elect to fill the entire space inside the perimeter boards with plywood, or scatter 1×4's throughout as I have done to minimize the amount of plywood necessary, or you can line the entire interior with boards of a size of your choosing (I would recommend 1×4's for cost benefit and no smaller than 1×3's or you will fastening them for days on end!).
Step 5
Once you have covered your top, attach your trim just under the edge of the board overhang. I have used 1×2's in this example, but you can get as fancy as you like. Fasten with 1 1/2″ finish nails if possible. If you don't have a nail gun and the finish nail set is not working out for you please feel free to fasten using 1 1/4″ screws . Be sure to countersink if you are taking this route. Honestly this is the route I typically choose because I don't have a nail gun, and I can't seem to make a hammer do as it's told.
Step 6
Once you trimmed out your piece, attach the feet in each corner and one in the center for added strength (this is probably not necessary for a twin size, but you can determine that based on your child and purchase this additional leg at any point). You will attach them directly into the bottom yellow boards (yours will not actually be yellow, only mine in the diagrams are, unless of course you paint it yellow, in which case you will need to take note of which boards of mine are yellow in the diagram!).
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
