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Plans
The final piece of the PB Inspired Banquette, this is a fabulous way to round the corner in your outdoor space or indoor dining nook!
With the other banquette pieces and the dining table:
Tools
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Jig Saw – if you prefer a more angular back leg you can use a circular saw or table saw as well.
Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
Lumber
1 – 2×2 at 6’ OR if 8’ is cheaper or all that your store sells, purchase that!
1 – 2×4 at 10’
3 – 1×3 at 8’furring strips (these are usually cheaper, but if not then get 2 at 8' and 1 at 6')
1 – 1×2 at 6’(if an 8' furring strip is cheaper, get that)
Materials
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote if this is for outdoor use
1 1/4” Wood Screws or Nails or Finish Nails – galvanized or coated if for outdoor use
Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use if need be
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
3 – 2×4 at 35 1/2” Back Legs
1 – 2×2 at 16 1/2” Front Legs
2 – 1×2 at 19 7/8″ Seat Supports
4 – 1×3 at 19 1/2″ Aprons (2 of these will be mitered and cut down a bit)
6 – 1×3 at 19 7/8” Seat Slats
8 – 1×3 at 20 1/2″ Back Rest Slats
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut out Your Legs: You will need 3 of these. Begin with a 2×4 and cut it down to a 2×2 at 35 1/2” in height. As long as you have a vertical straight space that is 2 1/2” in height at the 14” mark (up to 16 1/2” mark) then you can essentially make the shape how you like. The diagram below shows the back legs with a slight curve just like the inspiration piece, however if it’s easier for you to have an angular leg that is straight lined, you can do that also. Just be sure your leg is approximately 1 1/2” in width all the way down with the straight section at the Front Edge of the 14” mark and that it hits the top back corner and bottom back corner of the 2×4. Think Arc or Triangular shape, either will work. Create this with a jig saw or a circular saw depending on whether or not you will go with a curve or an angle.
Step 2
Fasten all 3 Legs Together using the Back Aprons: This should be flush with the front side of the legs at the 14” mark.
The inside edge of each apron will be mitered at 43 Degrees Off Center. This will be a vertical miter which is actually a bevel if you lay your board flat to cut it. The front edge of your boards will be 18 3/8″ and the back edge of your board will be 19 1/8″.
To attach use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 3
Construct the Front Leg Unit: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the Aprons to the front leg by attaching it 3/8” back from the front edge of the front leg and then attaching it to the Back Legs
Step 4
Attach your Seat Supports: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back rest boards in place. They should sit flush with the bottom of the aprons.
Step 5
Tack on the Seat Slats: Use 1 1/4” screws or nails and glue to fasten the seat slats in place. Space them about 1” apart and secure them to the frame supports. The board closest to the Corner Leg will need to be dog eared at a 45 Degree angle to allow for the corner leg. Measure and Mark for a more exact fit.
Step 6
Cut and Attach the Back Rest Boards: Miter the Edge closest to the Corner Leg for Each Back Rest Board at 43 Degrees Off Center.
Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back rest boards in place.
The first board (top) should be set 1/2” down from the top of the back legs and each subsequent leg should be spaced about 1 1/2” apart. Keep the Back Rest Boards flush with with the front edge and curve (or angle) of your back legs.
Step 7
Cut and Attach the Back Rest Boards: Miter the Edge closest to the Corner Leg for Each Back Rest Board at 43 Degrees Off Center.
Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back rest boards in place.
The first board (top) should be set 1/2” down from the top of the back legs and each subsequent leg should be spaced about 1 1/2” apart. Keep the Back Rest Boards flush with with the front edge and curve (or angle) of your back legs.
Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
We completed plans for the smaller console yesterday (plans for that posted here) and we are well on our way now, moving through this collection. The remaining pieces get a bit more complicated so I suggest you start with these and move your way through the pieces from easy to more difficult until you get comfortable with the processes for each! You will see shortly that since they are all of the same style, the building process is going to be very similar even when you add drawers and doors, etc.
I am off to the garage shortly to get my paint and tools ready and plan to begin on the smaller console today!
Martha, arranges her pieces as shown below and uses the magazine holders in the storage openings and places baskets with yarn underneath. Sigh…oh that Martha, she is such a genius. Don't you think this would be fabulous for playrooms and kids rooms as well? Just think of all that storage, bins galore!
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Kreg Jig – optional but will keep your screws from showing and allow an easier build
Lumber
3 – 1×2 at 8' (1 at 17″ and 2 at 39″ per board)
1 – 1×2 at 6' (3 at 17″)
2 – 2×2 at 6' or 8' if that is all your store carries (like mine)
1 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 4'x8'
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
** 2 1/2″ Wood Screws – only needed if not using Pocket Hole System
2″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 30 1/4″ Legs
2 – 3/4″ Ply of MDF at 12″ x 17″ Side Panels
1 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 12″ x 39″ Back Panel
2 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 17″ x 39″ Bottom Panels
1 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 42″ x 20″ Top
6 – 1×2 at 17″ Side Rails
6 – 1×2 at 39″ Front and Back Rails
Instructions
Use glue to secure your joints and be sure to countersink your screws, if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System. Consider Painting prior to assembling, in fact I prefer to cut, sand, then paint. Once my paint has dried I will pre-drill and countersink then assemble and touch up if necessary. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece will last for ages.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Legs to size, then cut Plywood or MDF to size and fasten it to the 1×2's sitting flush with the inside edge of the 1×2's. Using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock, fasten your panels to the legs using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and the rails with panels attached to the legs, and be sure to countersink and use glue.
Step 2
Flip your unit over and fasten the rails and panels in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and the rails with panels to the legs, and be sure to countersink.
Step 3
Fasten the top in place using finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
The Cross Frame Collection is extremely versatile, inexpensive to build (very), can be built without special tools (really) and will take you hardly any time at all to put together.
Did I mention how chic these pieces are? Yep, super chic! This piece is a Side Table… in theory, but might also be used as a pair, in place of a coffee table. Lightweight and easy to move around as needed, this table becomes your go to table for any occasion…even if all you need is a plant stand! Come to think of it, these would also be fabulous as nightstands!
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
**Miter Saw or Miter Box and Hand Saw – Optional for mitering the bottom and outside edges of the Legs, Bases, and Outside Cross Bars.
** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but will have a few tricky attachments for this project and
as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.
** Finish Nail Gun – Optional, and can be built without one. You can use a Finish Set and Hammer to fasten with finish nails or you can opt to use screws instead.
Lumber
1 – 2×3 @ 10'
1 – Sheet of 3/4″ Ply in a specie of your choice. You only need a small amount for this project, ask your lumber supply if they will sell you a 2' x4' piece rather than the entire 4' x 8' sheet. Otherwise you will have a ton of excess (but perhaps that is the perfect excuse to build the coffee table that matches?)
If you are not Mitering:
2 – 1×2 @ 6'
If you are planning on Mitering then you will need to purchase this instead:
2 – 1×2 @ 8' (the measurements add up to exactly 12' of or 2 1×2 @ 6' but this doesn't allow for the saw cuts and the amount that eats up each time you cut, so you will have a bit of extra on each board but not much)
Materials
**Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws and 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
3″ Screws – ** Kreg Owners will not need this item and will use the 2 1/2″ PHS in place of this.
2 1/2″ Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
2″ Finish Nails (you can also use the 1 1/4″ Screws for the table trim if you prefer not to buy this or don't have a finish nail gun, just be sure to countersink to hide the screws)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
**Note: I am providing 2 cut measurements for a few pieces that have the option of being mitered.
4 – 2×3 @ 18 1/2″ (Legs)
1 – 2×3 @ 19″ (Base) ** this becomes 22″ if mitering.
2 – 2×3 @ 4 1/4″ (Cross Bars) ** this becomes 5 3/4″ if mitering.
2 – 1×2 @ 19″ (Frame)
2 – 1×2 @ 14″ (Frame)
1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 22″ x 14″ (Table Top)
2 – 1×2 @ 23 1/2″ (Table Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 14″ (Table Trim) ** this will become 15 1/2″ if mitering.
Instructions
**If mitering your edges and corners you will cut at a 45° angle for this project. It would be safe to give yourself an extra inch on the boards that will be mitered, until you are sure that your miter cut was exact. This will give you a
little wiggle room to correct if need be. Once your miter is exact you can remove the excess on the opposite end.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Outside Legs to the Base and then attach the Cross Bar: Use 3″ Screws.
** You can miter the edges of the Legs and Base pieces for a more polished appearance and so that you attach from
underneath (this is helpful if you aren't using a Kreg Jig so that you can hide your screws), but this is not entirely necessary and as you can see below looks just fine without mitered edges. See step 2 for an example of the mitered edges.
** If you are planning on mitering the leg/base connections, you will want to miter the outside edge of these before you attach them in this step (they will also be a tad longer if you are mitering, see cut list above).
**Attaching the Cross Bar is the trickiest portion of this plan if you aren't using a Kreg Jig. You will need to attach the Cross Bars to the Base by fastening them from a spot near the circle shown in the diagram below. You will fasten from the outside edges of each Cross Bar, inward at an angle into your Base (forming an X shape with your screws when they are both fastened).
Step 2
Attach the Inside Legs: Use 3″ Screws if you are going to fasten them as shown below. You can also miter the bottom of the Legs, in which case a 2 1/2″ Screw will be more appropriate. Kreg Jig Owners, use your trusty 2 1/2″ PHS.
Without mitered edges, and with mitered edges, respectively:
Step 3
Build your Table Frame: Use your Pocket Hole system to fasten the frame pieces to each other and then attach the Frame to each leg using 2 1/2″ Screws. If you aren't using Pocket Holes, attach the frame pieces together using 2 1/2″ Screws and then fasten to the Legs.
This frame serves the purpose of providing something to attach your table top to, so that you won't have to make visible holes in it.
Step 4
Attach your Table Top: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and fasten to the frame from underneath, all the way around. No visible screw holes…
Step 5
Trim out the Table Top: Use 2″ Finish Nails to attach, or if you have trouble with this (because you don't have a finish nail gun and doing it by hand is hard) you can also use your 1 1/4″ Screws, just be strategic in where you place them and how many you use along each edge.
** Optional – for a very polished appearance you can miter the corners of your trim pieces.
Without mitered trim, and with mitered trim, respectively:
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
With School sessions right around the corner and Back to School Night fast approaching, I find myself gravitating toward vintage and handmade school and learning related design items (likely to blame on Poppy Talk Handmade’s recent Back to School Market). As I watch my little man bounce around the house (ok run at full speed is probably more appropriate, but I will pretend for a bit) I notice that he is constantly drawn toward my own antique and vintage utilitarian collectibles (sigh..).
He bangs on my vintage typewriter like nobody’s business and thumbs through my antique book collection, gently (ya right), curious about the words and illustrations on the pages. He rearranges my turn of the century lighter collection at least 3 times each morning and uses my paper maché dress forms as his army guy targets.
I know…I try to let him explore and fill his curiosity till his hearts content, but do you know how hard that is for an A type personality?
This got me thinking that perhaps my recent fixation on school time curiosity cabinet items might be something beneficial for him, as well as fun for me. In reflection, I realize that by placing educational items in my decor I have sparked a fascination for learning and an interest in how things worked years ago. By explaining what some of these seemingly ancient machines were used for, I have unknowingly and quite accidentally, I assure you, given him (at the ripe age of 2.5) an idea that things evolve and change. A glimmer of light is beginning to burn in the back of his mind, and a new understanding that not everything is present tense and in fact many things that have shaped our environment are quite a part of a bygone era.
Below are some amazing Design Finds that can and should be used in Kid’s Room Decor, based on this very appropriately timed, Back to School Night Theme. Nothing too precious that a youngster shouldn’t be able to play with or explore and everything either hand made or vintage. Regardless of your child’s age, these items should help spark a new found enjoyment for learning and creativity. Broaden their horizons…in style!
Sources
From Left to right and Top to Bottom: Fact or Fiction Notebooks, Fabric Decals, Microscope, Eco Friendly Chalkboard, Scientific Beakers, Numbered Plates, Today’s Menu – To do list Board, Trike Canvas, Vintage Farmer’s Almanac, Re-usable Journal or Drawing Pads, Tree Bookshelf, Perpetual Calendar, Globe, Blurb Chalkboard, School Desk, Lunchbox, Bowling Pins
Plans
This collection is inspired by the 2×2 Collection at West Elm as well as their Parsons collection, but this design is not in any way affiliated with them, this is my own design and I hope you like it as much as I do!
This is very easy to build and should cost less than $50 for materials.
My vision for this includes a canvas tent fort in khaki, for a boy, or a canopy draped with something flowy, for a girl.
This design will fit most typical crib and toddler mattress sizes, and should be easily transitioned into from crib stage, by providing your child protection with the guard rail. Once your toddler grows out of a toddler sized bed, or even while they are still in it, the guard rail can be removed as long as you don't use wood glue on that portion. This piece can double as a sitting area for your child as well.
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.
Lumber
4- 2×3 @ 10'
1 – 2×3 @ 6'
4 – 1×3 @ 10'
1 – 1×2 @ 10'
2 – 2×2 @ 10'
1 – 2×2 @ 6'
Materials
**Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws.
3″ Screws – **Kreg Owners you won't need the 3″ Screws.
2″ Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×3 @ 60″ (Legs)
2 – 1×3 @ 29 1/2″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×3 @ 52″ (Front Back Rails)
2 – 1×2 @ 52″ (Cleats)
1 – 2×3 @ 48 1/2″ (Back Apron)
2 – 2×2 @ 53 1/2″ (Front and Back Canopy Bars)
6 – 2×3 @ 29 1/2″ (Side Canopy Bars and Upper Side Rails)
10 – 1×3 @ 28″ (Slats)
2 – 2×2 @ 48 1/2″ (Upper Back Rails)
1 – 2×3″ @ 13″ (Vertical Guard Rail)
1 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Top Bar Guard Rail)
1 – 2×2 @ 26″ (Lower Guard Rail)
1 – 2×3 @ 26″ (Front Apron)
1 – 2×3 @ 20″ (Front Apron)
Instructions
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Join Boards with a Pocket Hole system whenever possible. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your boards to size, then begin by fastening your Side Aprons to the Legs, they should be flush with the outside of the legs and 4 1/2″ from the bottom. If you own a Kreg Jig, these are easily attached with pocket holes, otherwise you will use 3″ Screws and fasten through the legs into the aprons.
**Kreg Jig users: you should now fasten the Back Apron to the Back legs using your pocket hole system, it should be flush with the outside of the Back Legs and 4 1/2″ from the bottom.
Otherwise, for the rest of you…
You will then attach the Front and Back Bed Rails to the inside of the legs. They will fit perfectly right inside the area created by the Aprons and Legs. Use 2″ Screws and fasten from the inside.
Fasten the Cleats to the Front and Back Bed Rails, they should be flush with the bottom of the Rails, use 1 1/4″ Screws.
Attach the Back Apron to the Bed Rails, use 2″ Screws.
Step 2
Build out the Canopy: Fasten the 2×2 Front and Back Bars, use 3″ Screws or your Kreg Jig. Then attach the Side Bars, use a Kreg Jig to fasten them to the Front and Back Bars and the Legs OR use 3″ Screws to attach through to front and back bars by screwing from the outside of the front and back bars into the Side Bars.
Step 3
Attach the Slats, space them about 3″ apart and use 1 1/4″ Screws to fasten.
Step 4
Fasten the Upper Front, Back, and Side Rails to the Legs, space 4 1/2″ apart and use 3″ Screws to fasten to the Legs or your Pocket Hole System.
Step 5
Attach the Guard Rail and the Front Aprons, Use ” Screws to fasten the vertical guard rail to the Front Bed Rail and to fasten the aprons to the Front Bed Rails. Use 3″ Screws to attach the Guard Rail Bars to the vertical piece and the Leg.
If you have a Kreg Jig, use that to attach the Guard Rail Bars to the vertical piece and to the Legs.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY
This weeks DIY + Projects roundup takes us into the world of recycled parts and left overs made fabulous!
For all of you boys out there reading my little old blog…take a bit of inspiration from the first row of projects and take it upon yourselves to surprise your wives and girlfriends with a little something that will satisfy the both of you. This vanity mirror is a car mirror and a gorgeous one at that. So completely delicate and feminine yet definitely from a masculine line of thinking! Gorgeous! These candlesticks…both clever and so wonderfully industrial chic! I think a little Man Crafting is in order! Not sure what that is? Well you can read all about that here…I would love to know what manly crafts you come up with…definitely love to have you share, I know how clever you all are!
I am loving these examples of recycled tins used for organization. I think it’s environmentally responsible and completely adorable with a bit of industrial goodness mixed in! Not to mention your own monster mashes can’t really harm these recycled tin crayon and pencil holders..at least not that much, I think…well most likely they can’t. At least if they do destroy this, you can simply eat a bit more or drink a little more often and make another one?
How about making a fabulous sunburst mirror from a random group of yardsticks you may have around that you don’t really use anymore…or perhaps you can buy some simply for this purpose and let it inspire the inner builder and number lovers within your kiddos! I know all of you who follow and build end up with a myriad of scraps in various sizes and lengths and shapes. why not sand them out a bit and let your kids go crazy with markers, paint or any other thing and breath some new life into them. Otherwise you would most likely throw these out, am I right? I have hundreds of left overs exactly like this! Now I know what to do with them, since the hoarder in me can’t bear to throw them out!
Design
Well it’s no longer a secret that I LOVE neon! That’s right, whatyagonnado? Not much to say really, other than it can in fact be worked into your décor without blinding your precious littles. There will be no eye damage on my watch, do you hear me? Good, now that we have that out of the way, how fun are these neon items, mixed with neutrals, to subdue the earth shattering effect, of course! Also I was enjoying some time on Polyvore…as you can see below. If you like any of the cute little items in this room, you can view the list of sources for this board, on my Polyvore profile page, I think… by clicking here.
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Design
To be sure…I admit to being skeptical about black walls. It’s not that I’m timid, in fact to the contrary I have always been a fearless decorator in my own space, perhaps to my own detriment, though I have never believed it to be so. In seeing this trend emerge in a big big way, I find myself realizing that my fear with black walls in not in the result but the application. If not done right, and if not done well, the experiment is likely to go terribly wrong. Give that finish a bit shine and paneling underneath, and you will have made a grand space indeed. Perhaps keep it rustic and textural, just feel the warmth and comfort it exudes. Who knew…black is the new cozy! We already figured it for glam, and it hasn’t let us down! But warm, and rustic I never assumed possible. How about those Matte on Black stripes? Now that is something! Oh I how embrace this fabulous foray into bold décor and fabulous finishes! Bring on the Black!
Plans
Tools
Tape Measure
Drill
Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
Saw – optional and can have pieces cut at local lumber supply
Lumber
1 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF
1/2 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood or MDF
2 – 1×2 at 8'
1 – 1×3 at 6'
2 – 2×2 at 6'
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
2 1/2″ Wood screws – if not using a pocket hole system
2″ Finish nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 33 1/4″ Legs
2 -3/4″ Stock at 31 3/4″x 11″ Side Panels
1 -3/4″ Stock at 11 1/2″x32 1/2″ Divider
1 -3/4″ Stock at 11 1/2″x39″ Bottom Shelf
6 -3/4″ Stock at 12 1/4″x19 1/8″ Shelves
1 -3/4″ Stock at 14″x42″ Top
1 -1/4″ Stock at 33 1/4″x39″ Back Panel
3 – 1×2 at 39″ Rails and Supports
4 – 1×2 at 11″ Side Panel Rails
1 – 1×3 at 39″ Bottom Support
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Create your Side Panels by fastening them to the 1×2's (rails) and 2×2 Legs, sitting flush with the inside edge of the 1×2's 2×2's and using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock or 2 1/2″ Screws, use glue.
Step 2
Fasten the Supports and Trim in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the Supports and Trim to the Panels, and be sure to countersink.
Step 3
Attach your Bottom and Bottom rail as well as your back panel. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the bottom to the rails and the Side Trim. Use glue and 3/4″ screws or Nails to tack on the back.
Note: I show the pocket hole placement on the top of the bottom panel and rail, but you will want to place them out of sight underneath.
Step 4
Attach your Divider and Shelves. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue or you can use 2″ screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.
Step 5
Fasten the top in place. Use glue and 2 ” Finish nails or your 2 1/2″ screws with a countersink bit.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
While I channel Madonna for a brief moment..I pose a question to all of you: How do you express yourself?
Many of you who read this little ol’ bloggy poo, know that the expression shown below is one of my regulars. I thought it only fitting that this is how I express myself in my very own speech bubble! How will you express yourself in yours? I would love to see pictures of your finished projects with a single word (or small phrase) written in your bubble that best expresses who you are. What a fun little project this will be.
Speech Bubbles are all the rage for weddings and as photography props, but why not make them out of something a bit more lasting than foam board. I think these are a fun alternative to a family message board near the telephone or near the entryway. How about in a kiddo’s room for a different and yet even more fun version of a chalkboard display.
Express yourself… I will show you how!
Tools
Jig Saw
Sander
Foam Brush or Paint Roller
Lumber
1/4″ Sheet of 1/4” Plywood
Instructions
This is really quite a simple project, but let’s be real…cutting thin stock with a jig saw can cause some complication…aka..splintering. I will provide some suggestions for dealing with this below! Let’s get started…
Step 1
Begin by tracing the shape you desire your speech bubble to have onto your plywood. You will want to do this on the side that will be the bottom, and you should choose that side according to which of the sides has the most noticeable grain pattern and texture, that side…will be the bottom. The side that is the smoothest will be the side you ultimately want to use for the chalk board surface. There is a good reason for this, which you will see in the next couple of steps! I just used a red colored pencil that I found stuck under the couch cushion. My point…use anything that you can see, or that will show up adequately for you to cut along.
Step 2
Keeping the “bottom side up” (and the top or facing side, facedown)use your jig saw to cut along your line as close to the outlined shape as possible. As you can see below, I migrated my shape down several inches to make room for leftovers on my ply for another project! Another trick I have heard used to control plywood splintering is to run a strip of masking tape (it’s pretty thin) right over the line you will cut and this is said to reduce the splintering that occurs. Since I haven’t tested this theory, I am telling you this because it makes sense to me, given my experiences, but note that I haven’t actually given it a go…
Step 3
As you can see below, this side (the bottom side which is facing up for cutting) has splintered substantially. Not to worry, this is expected with thin sheet goods.
Step 4
But…flip that baby over to the smooth side (the front of what will be your chalk board surface) and the splintering is barely noticeable. This my friends, is why you should cut your thin stock with it’s face down. For a surface finish such as chalkboard paint, you will want as smooth and consistent a surface as possible. Choosing the smoothest side for the front is only half the battle in this game of chance. You MUST cut with that smooth side face down to keep it smooth!
Step 5
Sand well to remove the splintering, especially if this is for use with kiddos and sand the future chalkboard surface well to ensure a consistent and smooth-as-a-baby’s-butt paint application.
Step 6
Once you have sanded and wiped the debris from your project you are ready to paint. The instructions for my particular paint product suggest 2 applications, one vertically, the other horizontally with an hour or so of dry time in between. If you are working with unsealed bare wood as I am, you might find that it drinks up your paint like it’s been wandering the desert for 40 years. Not to worry, you just may desire another coat to be sure you have a beautiful dark black finish. Mine did not need an extra coat, but this is likely dependent upon your specie of plywood. I chose birch for it’s nearly perfect and ungrainy pattern and texture, so it didn’t need an extra coat. Pine plywood, is likely to absorb differently and perhaps may need a 3rd (or not…)
Step 7
Once your piece has dried thoroughly, you should see only minimal grain pattern through the finish. This is mainly textural and is a factor of how light interacts with black paint. But boy oh boy isn’t she a beauty! I almost didn’t dare touch it with chalk…too pretty!
Step 8
I suppose leaving it untouched defeats the purpose…so, the thing to do when your piece has dried completely (give a day to fully cure, though it likely won’t take long at all) you will want to prime your piece by covering the entire surface with chalk! This is every kid’s dream come true (and most of our adult selves as well, since we aren’t that likely to have been able to do this when we were small). Cover it, and cover it well with a layer of chalky goodness, then wipe clean.
Note: this particular brand of paint I used can be cleaned with water (yay), just so you know…sometimes with crazy folks abound in your home and lot’s of large Ikea Packs of chalk (I’m speaking from personal experience, can you tell?)…a good washing is just the thing to clean well and cut the chalk dust!
Step 9
My personal expression! Can I get a yahoo? So fun…don’t you think?
Plans
This is the Corner unit and is used for the outside edges as well. In fact this entire modular seating can be made using only the corner and single units arranged in different groupings. It can also be used alone as singular seating!
With 2 corner units and a single unit:
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Saw
Drill
Lumber
1 – 2×3 @ 10'
1 – 2×3 @ 8'
5 – 1×3 @ 10'
1 – 1×2 @ 6' (you only need a small amount of this, so check the scrap pile first)
Materials
3″ Screws – Galvanized or Stainless is best for outdoor use
2″ Screws – Galvanized or Stainless is best for outdoor use
Wood Glue
Wood Filler or a Paintable Silicone if you prefer
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×3 @ 27 1/2″ (Back Legs)
2 – 2×3 @ 14 1/4″ (Front Legs)
1 – 2×3 @ 31″ (Back Rest)
1 – 2×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Back Rest)
1 – 1×2 @ 14 1/4″ (Center Legs)
4 – 1×3 @ 27″ (Side Rails and Front and Back of Frame)
3 – 1×3 @ 25 1/2″ (Supports)
2 – 1×3 @ 27″ ( Dark Blue Side Slats)
1 – 1×3 @ 25 1/2″ (Red Back Seat Slat)
1 – 1×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Light Blue)
11 – 1×3 @ 26″ (Light Green Perimeter and Seat Slats)
Instructions
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.
**For outdoor use, choose rot resistant and weather tolerable wood such as Cedar, Redwood, and Teak. You would be well suited to pre-drill, sand, and finish each board before assembling to ensure complete protection and a lasting finish.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Center Legs to each other: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue
Step 2
Build the Frame: Use 2″ Screws
Step 3
Attach the Frame to the Legs: Use 2″ Screws
Step 4
Attach the Seat Perimeter: Use 2″ Screws
Step 5
Attach the Slats to the Frame: Use 2″ Screws
Step 6
Attach the Back Rests: Use 3″ Screws
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This is the Mod Sectional Single unit and can be used alone as singular seating or as part of the Modular Sectional we will be working on.
By combining different variations of the corner and single unit, you can crate an L-Shaped Sectional, Sofa seating, a U-Shaped entertainment seating arrangement, the possibilities are endless…
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Saw
Drill
Lumber
1 – 2×3 @ 10'
4 – 1×3 @ 10'
1 – 1×3 @ 6'
Materials
3″ Screws – Galvanized or Stainless is best for outdoor use
2″ Screws – Galvanized or Stainless is best for outdoor use
Wood Glue
Wood Filler or a Paintable Silicone if you prefer
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 2×3 @ 14 1/4″ (Legs)
2 – 2×3 @ 27 1/2″ (Legs)
1 – 2×3 @ 27 1/2″ (Back Rest)
2 – 1×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Side Rails of Frame)
2 – 1×3 @ 24 1/2″ (Front Back of Frame)
3 – 1×3 @ 26 1/2″ (Supports)
2 – 1×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Dark Blue Side Slats)
1 – 1×3 @ 24 1/2″ (Red Back Seat Slat)
10 – 1×3 @ 22 1/2″ (Light Blue and Green Seat Slats)
Instructions
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.
**For outdoor use, choose rot resistant and weather tolerable wood such as Cedar, Redwood, and Teak. You would be well suited to pre-drill, sand, and finish each board before assembling to ensure complete protection and a lasting finish.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Notice how the image below shows the front legs are shorter and are horizontally placed while the back legs are taller and vertically placed.
Step 2
Build the Frame: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. Place one support generally in the center, then place the others in the center of the remaining space.
Step 3
Attach the Frame to the Legs: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 4
Attach the Boards that make up the seat perimeter: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. Notice the dark blue boards are flush with the outside edge of the front legs, the light blue board is flush with front edge of the legs, and the red board is flush with the back edge of the back legs.
Step 5
Attach the remaining Slats for the Seat. Space the first few toward the front and back with 1/4″ between them, and the slats in the center space closer to 1/2″ apart. Use 2″ Screws
Step 6
Attach the Back Rest: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
