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Plans
An easy to build, relatively lightweight coffee table, that is so stylish, and requires no special tools for building.
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
Lumber
2 – 2×2 @ 6'
2 – 2×2 @ 8'
1 – 3/4×3/4 Trim @ 8'
1 – 3/4×3/4 Trim @ 10'
1 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood in a matching specie of wood (if possible) @ 4'x8' (or smaller if you can find a remnant)
Materials
4″ Screws
2″ Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 @ 16″ (Legs)
4 – 2×2 @ 43″ (Front Back Rails)
4 – 2×2 @ 17″ (Side Rails)
2 – 3/4×3/4″ Trim @ 43″ (Supports)
2 – 3/4×3/4″ Trim @ 15 1/2″ (Supports)
1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 43×17″ (Table Top)
Instructions
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project. Always fasten from the inside out whenever possible to avoid filling Screw Holes. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines.
For outdoor use, purchase wood that will hold up to the elements such as Cedar, Redwood, and Teak, and sand and finish each piece before you assemble. Use an outdoor water seal product to ensure a lasting finish.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Lower Rails to the Legs: Use 4″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 2
Attach the Upper Rails to the Legs: Use 4″ Screws and Wood Glue
Step 3
Attach the Table Supports to the Rails: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from the inside to prevent visible Screw Holes.
Step 4
Insert Plywood that is Cut to Size: Use 3/4″ Plywood and attach if you desire to, using 1 1/4″ Screws from underneath, up through the supports.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Disclaimer
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
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Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Design / Shopping
No pun intended…
When form and function meet…and fall in love!
Reminiscent of Factory Lighting from the American Industrial Period.
Apparently my love of maps, globes, and all things historic or period related translates to lighting design as well.
Plans
This collection is really fun, and easy to build. Perfect for a low cost build with a ton of style!
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but will have a few tricky attachments for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.
Lumber
1 Sheet – 3/4″ Plywood 4'x8'
4 – 2×3 @ 8'
3 – 2×2 @ 8'
1 – 1×3 @ 10'
2 – 1×3 @ 8'
Materials
**Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws.
2 1/2″ Screws
2″ Finish Nails (you can also use the 1 1/4″ Screws for the table trim if you prefer not to buy this or don't have a finish nail gun)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
6 – 2×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Legs)
2 – 2×3 @ 45″ (Bases)
1 – 2×3 @ 40″ (Cross Bar)
2 – 2×3 @ 18″ (Horizontal Bases)
2 – 2×2 @ 81″ (Frame)
2 – 2×2 @ 48″ (Frame)
1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 48″x84″ (Table Top)
2 – 1×3 @ 49 1/2″ (Trim)
2 – 1×3 @ 84″ (Trim)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Center Legs to their Bases and attach the Center Cross Bar: Use 2 1/2″ Screws or 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws.
Step 2
Attach the Outside Cross Bars: This is the trickiest portion of this plan if you aren't using a Kreg Jig. You will need to attach the Outside Cross Bars to the Bases by fastening them from a spot near the attachment. You will fasten from the outside edges of each Cross Bar, inward at an angle into your Base (forming an X shape with your screws when they are both fastened). Attach the Outside legs using 2 1/2″ Screws.
Step 3
Use your Pocket Hole System to attach the frame pieces to each other and then attach the Frame to the Legs. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, fasten frame together using 2 1/2″ Screws. Use 2 1/2″ Screws and fasten down into each leg. This frame serves the purpose of providing something to attach your table top to, so that you won't have to make visible holes in it.
Step 4
Fasten the Table Top to the Frame from underneath. Use 2″ Screws.
Step 5
Trim out the Table Top: Use 2″ Finish Nails to attach, or if you have trouble with this (because you don't have a finish nail gun and doing it by hand is hard) you can also use your 1 1/4″ Screws, just be strategic in where you place them and how many you use along each edge.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
This post kicks off what I hope you will feel is a fun and exciting new adventure! As I have been doing a bit of remodeling on the old Blog, I have also been doing a bit of mental remodeling, and assessing what it is that inspires me and brings me that warm and fuzzy feeling of having my design fill satisfied (is it ever actually satisfied? NO).
I have discovered (or simply become more aware) that some of my greatest sources of inspiration are not actually related to Interior Design and in fact stem from Fashion, Travel, Paper Goods, Product Design, and the very important and high on my list…Weddings! There are likely a million other fabulous things that I draw inspiration from and perhaps I will expand into sharing them as well, we shall see…
With this new series I am also launching a new addition to my Room Service offerings (actually a few)…I will be posting on this later so stay tuned…
For now, I share with you a sultry, spicy, and colorful affair inspired by exotic locales, with a richness of color and culture. If a place holds fond memories or represents something special to you, then recreating that moment or feeling is a fabulous way to bring that nostalgia to an event and share it with others.
Sources
Image Sources: Stylist Lo Bjurulf via 100 layer cake, Wedding Favors, Dress, Shoes, Mini Cakes, Flowers in bowl, Boutonniere, Cupcakes, Amaryllis, Coasters, Purple & Lilac Fashion, Fuchsia Flowers, Place Cards, Veil, Quartz Tea lights, Poppy, Necklace, Makeup, Boutonnieres, Bouquet, Lo Bjurulf via 100 Layer Cakef
Plans
This piece is inspired by the PotteryBarn Bailey Cube, and is my own take on the design. These plans are in no way intended to be exact and are in no way affiliated with the unmentioned Specialty Retailer to whom the actual Bailey Cube belongs…that being said, it's pretty darn close…maybe even better, because you can make it yourself!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Miter Saw or Miter box, or a square and a saw will also get the job done.
Lumber
- 1/2 sheet of 1/4″ Cabinet Stock Plywood
- 1/2 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood
- 2 – 1×3 at 8'
- 1 – 1×3 at10'
- 3/4″x3/4″ – Quarter Round Trim
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- 3/4″ Screws
- 2″ Finish Nails
- 1 1/4″ Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1/4″ Plywood at 17 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ (Cube Base)
- 2 – 1/4″ Plywood at 18″ x 18 1/2″ (Cube Base)
- 2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 17 1/2″ Square – you may need to sand the edges down just a bit to allow these to fit snigly inside the Cube Base (Interior Top and Interior Base)
- 2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 18 1/2″ Square (Exterior Top and Base)
- 8 – 3/4″x3/4″ Quarter round Trim at 20″ (Exterior Top and Base Trim)
- 8 – 1×3 at 18 1/2″ (Vertical Cube Trim)
- 4 – 1×3 at 13″ (Horizontal Cube Trim)
- 4 – 1×3 at 13 1/2″ (Horizontal Trim)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the 4 sided Cube Base around the Interior Base: Use Wood Glue and attach 4 sides to each other using 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and attach to the Interior Base using 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue. ** The Interior Base should be cut to size (17 1/2″x17 1/2″) and fit snugly inside the Cube Base, flush with the bottom of the Cube Base. It serves the purpose of giving you something to secure the Cube Base to as well as something to secure the Exterior Base to.
Step 2
Attach the trim pieces to the Cube: Use Wood Glue to attach (Clamp together while glue dries) then from the inside of the Cube use 3/4″ Screws (do not screw through the front of the trim and you won't have to worry about filling screw holes). ** The trim pieces should form a cube shape as well, so you will have to attach the trim pieces with approximately 1/4″ overhang on 2 of the 4 sides. Begin by attaching the trim on the 2 sides that will be flush with the cube edges (13″ Horizontal piece will fit in the middle) and then work on the opposite edges and align the trim with the other edges of the Trim (this will give you the 1/4″ overhang on either side and have the 13 1/2″ Horizontal Trim piece) **The overhang is an overhang from the edges of the actual Cube and will be flush to the Trim edges. Then attach the pieces as shown below. Notice how everything lines up flush when you attach the trim pieces on the last 2 sides, no overhang is apparent.
Step 3
Build the Top: Attach the smaller 3/4″ Plywood (Interior Top) to the Larger Top (Exterior Top) piece using 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue. **This does not attach to the cube itself, it rests inside of and on top of it, so before you fully attach both top pieces to each other, make sure the smaller Interior Top fits snugly inside the Cube Base, adjust if necessary.
Step 4
Attach the Trim pieces to the Top, Miter trim at 45 Degrees at the corners before attaching using 2″ Finish Nails and Wood Glue.
Step 5
Build the Base: Cut the Plywood to size and attach the Trim. Miter the corners at 45 Degrees and Attach the trim with 2″ Finish Nails and Wood Glue.
Attach the Exterior Base to the Interior Base: Use Wood Glue and 1 1/4″ Screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I should have logically continued this collection with a base unit of some sort! But…I am dreaming of a gift wrap station. I think it might be a dream come true for this organization crazed self of mine!
Tools
Tape Measure
Drill
Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
Jig Saw – a creative use of a 1″ hole saw bit would also work
Lumber
1/2 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood or MDF
1/2 sheet of 1/4″ Plywood or MDF
1 – 1×2 at 6'
1 – 1×3 at 8'
2 – 2×2 at 6'
1 – 1×6 at 10'
5 – 3/4″ Dowel Rod at 4'
Materials
1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
1″ Pocket hole screws
3″ Wood Screws – if not using a pocket hole system
1 1/4″ Wood Screws
1″ Wood Screws
1 1/4″ Finish nails
1″ Finish nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
4 – 2×2 at 33 1/4″ Legs
2 – 1×6 at 33 1/4″ Side Panels
1 – 1×6 at 42″ Top
2 – 1×2 at 42″ Top Trim
1 – 1×2 at 39″ Front Trim
4 – 1×2 at 5 1/2″ Side Trim
2 – 1×3 at 39″ Support Cleats
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 39″ x 7 3/4″ Shelves
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 5 1/2″ x 7 3/4″ Dividers
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 5 1/2″ x 30 1/4″ Outside Side Panels
2 – 1/4″ Ply at 39″” x 33 1/4″ Back
4 – 3/4″ Dowel Rods at 40″ Rails
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Legs to size, then fasten your side panels to them using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock, and the panels will be flush with the inside of the legs. Create 5 holes in a bean shape to allow your rails to slide in and down. The shape isn't crucial as long as it will house a 3/4″ dowel rod, so it needs to be at least 1″ in diameter at every point on the shape. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 3″ screws to fasten the panels to the legs, and be sure to countersink and use glue.
Step 2
Fasten your Support Cleats in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 3″ screws to fasten the cleats to the legs, and be sure to countersink. Fasten your top and the top trim in place using 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue or 1 1/4″ screws and glue.
Step 3
Attach your Shelves and dividers in place. Use your pocket hole system set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ pocket hole screws or use 3″ screws to fasten to the legs and 1 1/4″ screws to fasten to the side panels and glue. Use 1 1/4″ wood screws or your 1″ pocket holes screws to fasten the dividers to the shelves.
Step 4
Attach the Outside Side Panels to Inside Side Panels using 1″ wood screws from the inside and glue or 1″ finish nails and glue. Fasten the side trim and front support trim in place using 1 1/4″ screws and glue or 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue. Tack on the Back using 1″ finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
Follow my blog with blog lovin!
Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Shopping
A little Shimmer and a bit of reflection, just like Nature provides…a perfect gift guide for the Naturalist in your life.
Plans
This beauty is inspired by the Potterybarn Chelsea Collection (allegedly) and will hold a Queen Sized Mattress with the Storage Unit and a King sized mattress without the storage unit. This plan is for the platform bed portion, and the plans for the storage unit have also been done (plans for the storage unit can be found here), so you can pick your poison!
I would like to mention that this project can be modified to taste, kind of like food… Choose bun feet, decorative legs like what I show in the image above, or perhaps a more spindly leg…opt for molding instead of 1×2 trim, decrease the width of the perimeter boards, add half or quarter round trim to the edge of the perimeter, this is entirely up to you! This is meant to be adaptable to fit your home's decor and furniture style. You will have these options all the way through this collection as far as trim style and the level of decorative features you choose to add.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Saw
- Miter Saw – optional – if you prefer to miter the trim. Not required.
- Kreg Jig – optional
- Pneumatic Nailer – optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the trim or screws if you are using 1×2 boards for trim
Lumber
- 4 – 1×6 at 8'
- 12 – 1x4at 8'
- 4 – 1×3 at 8'
- 4 – 1×2 at 8'
- 1 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 4' x8' you may need to buy a full sheet if your store won't cut one up for you.
- **1/2 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 2'x8'
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws if you are using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ finish nails
- 5 Legs of your choice in style
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×4 at 80″ (Outside Frame – wood toned)
- 2 – 1×4 at 78 1/2″ (Outside Frame – turquoise)
- 5 – 1×4 at 78 1/2″ (Bottom Boards – yellow, and additional Frame Boards – wood toned)
- 3 – 1×4 at 73″ (Interior Spacers)
- 4 – 1×3 at 78 1/2″ (Frame Boxes in Red)
- 2 – 1×6 at 84″ (Top Perimeter Boards
- 2 – 1×6 at 73″ (Top Perimeter Boards)
- 4 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 15 5/8 x 73″
- 2 – 1×2 at 81 1/2″ (Trim)
- 2 – 1×2 at 80″ (Trim)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
The diagram below is the view from underneath and shows the attachment of the Bottom Boards (yellow) to the Frame. Use 1 1/4″ Screws or your Kreg Jig on a 3/4 setting to fasten boards together. The bottom boards are set 1/4″ down from the edge (technically the bottom edge though in this diagram it appears as if the top edge) of the frame.
Step 2
Turn the entire frame over and attach the 1×3's (red) to the yellow bottom boards. By setting the bottom boards down 1/4″, this now allows the 1×3's to be flush on the top with the 1×4 perimeter. Also attach the remaining 1×4 boards (wood toned) to complete the frame.
Step 3
Begin attaching the Top Boards. I have designed this using 1×6's for the perimeter though you could also use 1×4's and attach quarter round trim to the outside edge of that. The boards stop just on the inside edge of the 1×3's that form the boxes on the outside. This leaves most of them free for attaching other boards in the next steps. There will be a 2″ Overhang for the perimeter boards.
Step 4
This next step involves some style and cost choices…you can elect to fill the entire space inside the perimeter boards with plywood, or scatter 1×4's throughout as I have done to minimize the amount of plywood necessary, or you can line the entire interior with boards of a size of your choosing (I would recommend 1×4's for cost benefit and no smaller than 1×3's or you will fastening them for days on end!).
Step 5
Once you have covered your top, attach your trim just under the edge of the board overhang. I have used 1×2's in this example, but you can get as fancy as you like. Fasten with 1 1/2″ finish nails if possible. If you don't have a nail gun and the finish nail set is not working out for you please feel free to fasten using 1 1/4″ screws . Be sure to countersink if you are taking this route. Honestly this is the route I typically choose because I don't have a nail gun, and I can't seem to make a hammer do as it's told.
Once you trimmed out your piece, attach the feet in each corner and one in the center for added strength. You will attach them directly into the bottom yellow boards (yours will not actually be yellow, only mine in the diagrams are, unless of course you paint it yellow, in which case you will need to take note of which boards of mine are yellow in the diagram!).
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
I love it when the poster children of cool-ness get in on the Eco Chic Action! John Derian is creating pieces using soy-based foam, non-toxic glues, and FSC-certified domestic wood for his collaborative line of furniture with Cisco Brothers, which I genuinely appreciate. Perhaps one day the price tag will come down to my level (so basically never) and I might get to enjoy this fabulous neutral charcoal taupe color with a pop of this bluish purple color thrown into the mix via the throw pillows. I have never been a huge lover of purple, but I may have been sincerely swayed by the color combo in this image!
We are no strangers to John Derian here at TDC, since we may have been caught coveting his collaborative line with Target, not so long ago (you can read that post here)… Target may be a bit more equal to my current financial speed, but a girl can dream can’t she…or perhaps DIY something of my own in this amazingly ‘green’ color combo with purple!
Design
Not sure what colors to go with for your impending builds, décor, or rehabs? Draw from the Fashion Magnate’s color picks for the Fall Season for Pantone! We talked about the spring 2011 color picks here and of course the Color of the Year here as well…so let’s take a peak at the line up for Fall…
Loving the Deep Teal, Orchid Hush and Quarry…Of course the Color of the Year is one I’m still lovin, and the 2 on the far left: bamboo and emberglow are some serious contenders for love at first sight…
Design
Moody and Neutral, it doesn't get more dramatic than that…need I say more.
Plans
This piece (and the entire collection) is such an easy build and packs a ton of style into each little board. This is perfectly sized for a console table behind your sofa or as a desk workspace. Perhaps if you live in a small space, this is ideal to serve both purposes. Place it behind your sofa, and pull up a desk chair of some sort, and really maximize your living space.
Tools
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but will have a few tricky attachments for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.
Lumber
1 Sheet – 3/4″ Plywood 4'x8' (since you really only need half of this length-wise or about 2'x8', check to see if they will do this for you, my local Orange will cut up sheets for me in 2'x4' sections, so it is possible they might consider cutting it the other direction…this will save you about $10)
1 – 2×3 @ 10' (cut 4 legs from this)
1 – 2×3 @ 8' (cut 3 legs from this)
1 – 2×3 @ 6' (cut the bases and horizontal bases from this)
2 – 2×2 @ 8' (from each board you will cut one 55 1/2″ frame piece and one 20″ frame piece)
2 – 1×3 @ 8' (from each board you will cut one 60″ trim piece and one 20″ trim piece)
Materials
**Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws and 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Screws
2″ Screws
2″ Finish Nails (you can also use the 1 1/4″ Screws for the table trim if you prefer not to buy this or don't have a finish nail gun and aren't so handy with a hammer and those tiny little nail heads)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
Cut List
7 – 2×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Legs and Center Cross Bar)
2 – 2×3 @ 17″ (Bases)
2 – 2×3 @ 11″ (Horizontal Bases)
2 – 2×2 @ 55 1/2″ (Frame)
2 – 2×2 @ 20″ (Frame)
1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 58 1/2 x 20″ (Table Top)
2 – 1×3 @ 60″ (Trim)
2 – 1×3 @ 20″ (Trim)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Center Legs to their Bases and attach the Center Cross Bar: Use 2 1/2″ Screws or 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws. If you are using a Pocket Hole System you can create your pocket holes along the sides of your boards or underneath for the most out of the way attachments. If you place them underneath, you will not likely need to fill or plug them, however it does make for a bit more of a difficult time of fastening them together. Try draping your base boards over a table width-wise and allowing the legs to dangle down while you clamp and screw.
Step 2
Attach the Outside Cross Bars: This is the trickiest portion of this plan if you aren't using a Kreg Jig. You will need to attach the Outside Cross Bars to the Bases by fastening them from a spot near the attachment. You will fasten from the outside edges of each Cross Bar, inward at an angle into your Base (forming an X shape with your screws when they are both fastened). Attach the Outside legs using 2 1/2″ Screws, and be sure to countersink if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System. Be careful attempting to countersink at an angle. Go slow and don't apply to much pressure to quickly or you will definitely snap your countersink bit!
Step 3
Use your Pocket Hole System to attach the frame pieces to each other and then attach the Frame to the Legs (see diagram below for example. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, fasten frame together using 2 1/2″ Screws. Use 2 1/2″ Screws to fasten the frame downward into each leg. This frame serves the purpose of providing something to attach your table top to, so that you won't have to make visible holes in it, and also acts to provide a bit of extra support. If you prefer to fasten the table top (next step) to the frame using your Kreg Jig, you will want to create the pocket holes for that attachment while you are creating them for the frame. You will set your Kreg Jig for 1 1/2″ stock for the frame and for attaching it to the legs…HOWEVER, you will set it for 3/4″ Stock for attaching the table top to the frame. Space them every 6″ or so and they will point in an upward direction whereas the others will point down into the legs or horizontally connecting the frame pieces.
Step 4
Fasten the Table Top to the Frame from underneath. Use 2″ Screws. If you are using your Kreg Jig to attach you will have already created your Pocket Holes in the previous step, with your Jig set for 3/4″ stock. You will use 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws to fasten the Table Top to the frame.
Step 5
Trim out the Table Top: Use 2″ Finish Nails to attach, and fasten to the table top and the frame. If you have trouble with this (because you don't have a finish nail gun and doing it by hand is hard) you can also use your 1 1/4″ Screws, just be strategic in where you place them (as in space them evenly and in a balanced manner) and how many you use along each edge, and be sure to countersink.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
Note
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Disclaimer
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
