The Design Confidential

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Desk

06.29.11

This desk is gorgeous and will have an accompanying hutch to go with it! stay tuned for this plan to come! We are so fortunate to have Loren’s wonderful work and I am so grateful to her! I have been hard on some big, big projects for the site, coming soon!

$100-$150

Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

2 – 2×2 at 10’ or 4 – 2×2 at 6’

10 – 1×2 at 10’

1 – 1×2 at 6’

3 – 1×6 at 8’

1 – 1×6 at 6’

1 – 1×4 at 8’

2 – 1×3 at 8’

1 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood

1/2 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood

**1 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood (you will need a piece that is 2’x6’ if your store will sell you something like this)

Materials

**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

1 1/4” Finish Nails

2” Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2×2 at 29 1/2” Legs

2 – 1×2 at 12 5/8” Center Panel Trim

8 – 1×2 at 19 1/2” Drawer Supports (blue)

14 – 1×2 at 21” Drawer Supports and Rails (green)

3 – 1×2 at 24 1/2” Drawer Supports and Rails (red)

4 – 1×2 at 21 1/4” Side Panel Trim

4 – 1×2 at 13 3/8” Side Panel Trim

8 – 1×2 at 19 3/8” Outside Drawer Trim

8 – 1×2 at 5 1/2” Outside Drawer Trim

2 – 1×2 at 24 3/8” Center Drawer Trim

2 – 1×2 at 3 1/2” Center Drawer Trim

2 – 1×2 at 71” Top Trim

2 – 1×2 at 27” Top Trim

8 – 1×6 at 22 1/2” Outside Drawer Sides

4 – 1×6 at 17 7/8” Outside Drawer Backs

4 – 1×6 at 19 3/8” Outside Drawer Fronts

2 – 1×4 at 22 1/2” Center Drawer Sides

1 – 1×4 at 22 7/8” Center Drawer Back

1 – 1×4 at 24 3/8” Center Drawer Front

4 – 1×3 at 20 1/2” Top Frame

2 – 1×3 at 69 1/2” Top Frame

4 – 3/4” Ply at 21 1/4” x 13 3/8” Side and Center Panels

4 – 3/4” Ply at 17 7/8” x 21 3/4” Outside Drawer Bottoms

1 – 3/4” Ply at 22 7/8” x 21 3/4”

1 – 3/4” Ply at 69 1/2” x 25 1/2” Top

1 – 1/4” ply at 65 x 13 3/8” Back

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Side and Center Panels: Miter your legs at an angle from the 4” mark down on both the inside edges of each leg (2 of the 4 sides of the leg), leaving a 3/4”-1” square at the bottom. Secure the Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Panels will sit flush with the inside edges and the tops of the legs for the outside panels and for the center panels the center panel trim (1×2) will be flush with the bottom of the panel leaving the panel to overhang the height of the 1×2 by 3/4”. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Panels to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.

Step 2

Connect the Rails, trim and drawer supports: Connect the Drawer Supports (green and blue rectangles) to each other using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Then move on to connect them to the side panels and center panels along with any of the other rails and trim that aren’t part of the drawer supports. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the rails in place and 2” screws to fasten the Bottom in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue.

All pieces on the back side (rail, supports, and bottom) will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the legs to allow for attaching the back panel later. The back side is the one we are facing in the image below, so we are talking about the drawer supports and the single red rail in the middle that isn’t part of a drawer support needing to sit back by a 1/4”.

Step 3

Fasten the Side Trim and Back Panel in Place. Miter the corners of the Trim for the most professional appearance (not required) and tack on using 1 1/4” finish nails on the sides, and use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails on the back panel. Use glue.

Step 4

Build the Drawers. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s for the outside drawers and 1×4’s for the center drawer. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 5 drawers total, 4 of the larger outside drawer style and 1 center drawer.

Step 5

Build and Top Frame. The top frame will be built using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (green) to the stiles (yellow), so to speak, and fasten the Frame to the Unit using 2” Finish nails and glue.

Step 6

Add your Top. Miter the corners of the trim and attach using 2” finish nails and glue.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

The Design Confidential

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Design

A Fountain of Youth for the Master Mood Board

06.28.11

Well I have to admit that finding the inspiration for this project took me longer than it usually does. It is at times a bit more tricky to find my design inspiration for a project that has existing furniture and accessories that will stay in the room, even if I love the pieces. I suppose it blurs the vision a bit as I peruse the internet for the much needed spark of creativity.

But alas, the design plan began to take shape when I decided to search for Poster Beds in white to use as representation for her existing bed, in my Mood board. The bed was the one item I was fairly certain about. From the beginning I felt as thought the honey tones of her oversized bed gave the room a feeling of heaviness, and I was thinking that would be well remedied by painting it a bright and fresh white.

When I found the image of the bed (shown in the Mood Board below), my direction for this room became clear and I knew how it should come together.

Do you love? I know, right…LOVE!

Before we get started on the details, let’s take a peak at what we are dealing with here in her existing room…let me preface this by saying, I think her furniture is fabulous and my suggestion is likely not going to be replacing it.

Here we go…

Some of you may remember my mentioning that, her furniture was weighing her down. This was not her description of her dilemma, but mine. Her stated problem was simply in trying to pull together her room, in a style that she enjoyed, without having to replace each and every item.

I felt that the mix of furniture styles, the heaviness of some of the objects (bed) and the relative sparseness of others was sucking the life out of the room. And when there is no life in the Master Bedroom…well, you know what that can lead to!

So let’s talk deets from the Mood Board:

First of all, the colors she mentioned she would like to see here were brown, green, and possibly a bit of gray. No problem here…that is quickly becoming one of my specialties! She mentioned her bed was a bit high which explained her use of a singular tall dresser for her television and that should would like to find a solution for that and would like to keep her vanity, the fabulous white table on the side of her bed that you can’t see in this image, her curtains the gourd lamps she has, a silver mirror and a few other odds and ends. Again, no problem since those are the items that are working well in this room. She mentioned she would like to keep the lamps she currently has on either side of her bed since they were actually tall enough to work with the great height of her bed.

First on the list of solutions here is painting her bed. It will lift some of the visual weight if you give it a light white and bright color. It won’t fix the height of the bed, but it will certainly lighten the mood. I would also love for her to switch out the placement of her gourd lamps and simply reverse them. I am wondering if it is possible to remove the mirror from her vanity. I think if it can be done without completely destroying the piece that it would be wonderful to relocate her silver circular mirror to above her vanity.

Various Artwork from: Art.com and ZGallerie

Beauty in Blue

Abstract in Green

On the Wind Green

I mentioned above that she had a problem finding lighting tall enough to suit her bed and therefore wanted to keep her bedside lamps. The thing I see as being an issue here is that the lamps themselves, while tall enough are not substantial enough. I think there are a few options that will work much better. One is to use pendant lights over each bedside table, another is to use floor lamps instead of table lamps to give added height, and the third option is to raise the height of the bedside tables so that it is better suited to the height of the bed.

Since she wanted to keep one of her nightstands, that suggests for that side, either a pendant lamp or a floor lamp is a good solution. I have included a pair, one floor and one table lamp here that will work well given the base, which can be slid under the edge of a piece of furniture and not interfere.

Hanging a chandelier over the bed in the Master is fabulous and romantic, definitely adds a bit of needed drama. If this is not logistically possible (not sure what she has up there now) then this style of lamp would be fabulous as one of the above mentioned bedside pendants and can be found in smaller sizes.

If installing a light isn’t an option hanging something dangly such as those in the links below is also an option, it will have a similar affect and the colors available are fabulous!

Capiz Chime

Beige Capiz Chime

I love the paint color used in this picture and feel it is the perfect color for her new room. Now, I just have to find an actual color that closely resembles it. Stay tuned for that.

I think a print like this one above the headboard would be amazing with the greens and browns it has. It would be even more fabulous in a black frame.
So she mentioned that building furniture was probably not the thing for her (more power to her if she can buy!) so as part of the bed height issue I chose to move her favorite white side table to the other side so that it is more visible from the entrance (and maybe paint it black? not sure what she will say about that…) and in it’s place add a very tall bedside set of drawers. There is no reason it needs to be this one in particular if it isnt’ her taste, it just needs to be substantial enough to pull it’s own weight on the other side of the bed, and tall enough to use proper lighting.

She mentioned gray, and of course…I’m all over it! I think this gray bedding would be a fantastic choice here since it isn’t too dark and still has a light and airy quality.

I would really love to see an eclectic mix of throw pillows and sheets and shams that contrast with the bedding. I would love a white sheet and shams with just a hint of black pattern on them would be perfect. Throw pillows in shade of brown, green, and white mixed and matched would be perfect. Here are a few options:

Apple Green Mirage

West Elms Throws and Blankets

Bird Silhouette Pillow Cases

Bedding

On the wall she currently has a small dresser, I would love to see a larger and open console table that might double as a desk and I would love to see it in black or a very dark color.

Other options here:

Console Table

This rug ties the bedding and the bed together and grounds the room with the new addition of gray to the color scheme. And seriously this 4×6 rug is 19.99 at Ikea…I almost did a double take on that and figured at first it must be a door mat sized rug…nope!

Various accessories for the room are really meant to be representative of the color and type of accessories that might work well. Those I have shown can be found at the links below, but other items that are similar will work well also. The green gourd lamp shown is from ZGallerie but is meant to represent the one she already owns.

Pears

Doily Placemat for laying on the console table, not necessary but interesting. Would be great as actual placemats as well!

I love the natural sensibility about this mirror and think it would be perfect above the console. She currently has a mirror on that wall, but I would love to see her remove the mirror from her vanity (if possible and done carefully) and have her replace it with her circular silver mirror that she already owns.

I would love to see a bold graphic white chair at the console along these lines.
The solution to her bed being to high for her tv to sit on a regular dresser, is in fact to use a taller dresser, the only difference is I have chosen one that is also more substantial so that it fills the wall a bit better and doesn’t look misplaced.

The white opalescent glass vases here represent the fact that a collection of glass pieces in white would be a give a nice visual impact without having heavy visual weight. any collection of white vases or glasses will do and the discount stores are the perfect place to search for that.

The Design Confidential

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Toddler Farmhouse Chair

06.28.11

We covered the table yesterday, and today is all about the matching seating! We will cover both a chair and a bench seating option that provide our little bundles of joy with a stylish furniture choice that will blend seamlessly with all your home's big kid style pieces.

Under $25

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

**Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

**Kreg Jig – Optional, but makes the build a snap.

Lumber

1 – 1×2 at 8'

1 – 1×2 at 6'

1 – 1×3 at 6'

Materials

1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Pocket Hole Screws

1 1/4″ Wood Screws

2″ Wood Screws

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1×2 at 21″ Legs

2 – 1×2 at 10 1/4″ Legs

3 – 1×2 at 10″ Chair Seat Frame

5 – 1×2 at 9 1/2″ Chair Seat Frame, Seat, Stretcher, Back Rest

4 – 1×3 at 11″ Chair Seat

1 – 1×3 at 9 1/2″ Back Rest

Instructions

Step 1

Cut your legs to size:

Step 2

Build and Attach the Chair Seat Frame. Use a pocket hole system to construct the frame, set for 3/4″ stock or Use a #8 countersink bit and your2″ wood screws to build the frame and to attach use your 1 1/4″ wood screws.

Step 3

Fasten the Chair Seat in Place. You can elect to use plywood or MDF and Iron on Edge Banding, or you can line up 1×3's and secure them to the frame. To avoid so many screw holes showing , you can use a pocket hole system to join the boards together underneath and then attach as a single unit to the frame. You have a few options for this step please note that joining the boards with a pocket hole system is really more for the benefit of creating a single chair seat piece that can be secured with less frequent visible screw holes, to the frame and isn't really a stability issue.

To fasten the Seat to the Chair Base otherwise, use your #8 countersink bit and 2″ wood screws from the top and down into the frame and legs. Use 2 screws per seat slat on either side and fasten to either the frame or the leg depending upon which slat you are securing.

Step 4

Attach the Aprons, Back Rests, and Stretchers. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock or 2″ screws and your #8 countersink bit to pre-drill and fasten the stretchers and back rests, and use 1 1 /4″ wood screws to attach the aprons from underneath and on the inside of the chair seat frame.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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The Design Confidential

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans for Building a Toddler Farmhouse Table

06.28.11

I am fairly certain this is the table Santa will be “bringing” my little guy for his Christmas! Of course that is assuming I can actually find the time to help Santa build this without him seeing it.

Under $25

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

**Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

**Kreg Jig – Optional, but makes the build a snap.

Lumber

1 – 1×2 at 10'

2 – 1×2 at 8'

1 – 1×4 at 10'

1 – 1×4 at 8'

Materials

1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Pocket Hole Screws

1 1/4″ Wood Screws or 1 1/4″ Finish Nails

2″ Wood Screws

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

7 – 1×2 at 21 1/2″ Frame and Outside Stretchers

4 – 1×2 at 19″ Legs

2 – 1×2 at 20 3/4″ Stretchers

2 – 1×2 at 20″ Aprons

7 – 1×4 at 24 1/2″ Table Top

Instructions

Step 1

Build your Frame: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and be sure to set your depth stop at the 3/4″ setting as well. Use your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to fasten. Create your Pocket holes for attaching the table top in this step as well. If you aren't using a Pocket Hole system, use a #8 countersink bit to pre-drill, and 2″ screws to build the frame.

Step 2

Attach the Legs. Use a #8 countersink bit and your 1 1/4″ wood screws.

Step 3

Fasten the Table Top in Place. You can elect to use plywood or MDF and Iron on Edge Banding, or you can line up 1×4's and secure them to the frame. To avoid so many screw holes showing , you can use a pocket hole system to join the boards together and then attach as a single unit to the frame. You have a few options for this step please note that joining the boards with a pocket hole system is really more for the benefit of creating a single table top piece that can be secured with less visible screws to the frame and isn't really a stability issue. To fasten to Table Base use the pocket holes you created earlier and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws or your #8 countersink bit and 2″ wood screws from the top and down into the frame.

Step 4

Attach the Aprons and Stretchers. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock or 2″ screws and your #8 countersink bit to pre-drill to fasten the stretchers, and use finish nails or 1 1 /4″ wood screws to attach the aprons.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Leave a comment

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Floating Display Shelf

06.28.11

This piece is inspired by the PotteryBarn shelves of a similar nature, but is by no means declared as an accurate replication (though I sure did attempt as much). I actually created this plan for a Design Services Job… Robyn hope you like your new display mechanism for your collection of milk glass!

This construction is the most simple, maybe ever…after your cuts are made, this should take you maybe 15 minutes at the most, and more likely about 5!

The website suggests they use MDF for longevity of the structural strength, so I figure when Rome….right? However something to consider is that MDF is fairly heavy and so if you plan to place decently weighted items on this, just be forewarned and consider using wood instead. For mine shown below I used Poplar because I originally intended to leave them natural…then my boy colored on them and they are now black!

Edit view

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools

Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw (If you can get the store to cut your boards then you won't even need this)

Lumber

1 – 1×4 at no more than 6' if possible (with 6 feet you could make 2 of these)
1 – 1×2 at no more than 6' if possible (with 6 feet you could make 2 of these)
1 – 1×6 at no more than 6' if possible (with 6 feet you could make 2 of these) or a 1×4 would work just as well.

Materials

2″ Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws) for MDF and soft wood and 2″ Fine Thread Screws for Hard wood
Dry Wall Anchors for securing your screws directly into the wall
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

A. 1 – 1×4 at 3' (Shelf Back)

B. 1 – 1×2 at 3' (Shelf Lip)

C. 1 – 1×6 at 3' (Shelf Ledge) for mine I chose a 1×6 for the shelf bottom, it is the perfect size for several layers of accessories.

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Attach the Shelf Ledge to the Shelf Back: C to A (Blue to Red), use 2″ Screws and glue.

Step 2

Attach Shelf Lip to Shelf Ledge: B to C (Green to Blue) Use 2″ screws and glue.

Step 3

Hang the shelves with dry wall anchors and 2-3″ Screws. Secure to your studs which should be found every 16″ OC (on center).

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Design

Style Files: Modern Farmhouse Artist Barn

06.27.11

Last week Apartment Therapy featured this spread on Robin’s Gorgeously Green Artist Barn and the Home Tour was so amazing that it really stuck with me throughout the week. It might be one of the best Home Tour’s I have seen on their site and thought it was more than worthy of a little share with you.

Indulge…

This barn was created to be her studio, and was constructed by Robin herself along with George, owner and creator of GeoBarns. As a gal who has longed for a studio of my own, for as many years as I can remember, I am now perfectly convinced that I need to move to Connecticut, Vermont, or any of the surrounding states George might be willing to work, so that I too might build myself a GeoBarn with his help!

There is something about the idea of living or working on a Farm with chickens that I am completely and utterly drawn to. Throw in an amazing place to create, some industrial chic pieces, mixed with soft colors, beautiful encaustic art landscapes, and a vintage Anthropologie-esque vibe and I am sold!

To top things off, this barn was constructed in a budget friendly manner and with an Environmentally Friendly Approach, by using a salt treatment on the wood rather than a chemical treatment to protect from the elements. Nifty, huh?

I urge you to visit and view the whole Home Tour, it is pretty fabulous and you really can’t get the full effect from my miniature collage o’beauty.

Sources

Images via: Apartment Therapy

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Belgard Cabinet Part 2

06.27.11

Part 2 of the Amazing Project covered here! This project is perhaps one of my most favorite plans…EVER!

$75-$100

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Saw

Miter Saw or Miter box, or a square and a saw will also get the job done. This is only for the X on the Cabinets.

Router for Glass inset if you choose to go this route.

Lumber

See Part 1 for Lumber list here

Materials

See Part 1 for Materials list here

Cut List

See Part 1 for Cut list here

Instructions

I am labeling this an intermediate project, not because it is actually difficult, but because it is tedious and involves hanging cabinet doors and drawers. When you stop and think about the steps, they aren't actually difficult. Just time consuming and detail oriented. But oh so worth it!

**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.

** This is a project that is quite a literally a “measure as you go” and build accordingly. The reason I say this is because you will want everything to fit snugly and 1/8″ will matter, so you are well suited to measure an opening and construct a drawer to fit as precisely as possible. The trim pieces if not on perfectly straight and spaced to perfection will leave discrepancies in spacing and thus, it is possible not every drawer or cabinet opening will be the same. Just so you are aware…this measure as you go technique will ensure that everything fits perfectly for your particular piece.

Step 1

Create the Shelves, but the best way to utilize them is to create dowel holes and insert shelf supports to place the
shelf on, this way they will remain removable and you can use this cabinet to suite you needs better. A few holes (keep in mind these are not holes that go all the way through, they only go about half way into the Center Divides and outsides) to adjust the height of the shelf would be ideal.

You can also attach the shelf permanently with screws or skip them all together if the shelf pegs are not your fav.

Step 2

You are now going to switch gears and create the Cabinet Doors: To determine the width measurements for your doors, you will need to measure the exact measurement from Trim edge to Trim edge for the width and then subtract 1/4″ (this will give you 1/8″ clearance on either side. To determine the exact height measurements, you will need to measure from the top of the drawer casing to the bottom of the writing tablet casing and subtract 1/4″ (again this will leave 1/8″ on top and bottom for proper clearance and functionality).

It is possible that given the placement of the trim, each cabinet door might be slightly different (though hopefully not) and this is
where the “measure as you go” portion begins! The measurements below are approximate and you will need to truly make sure you are accurate here.

Use 3″ Finish Nails to attach the rails and styles from the sides and wood glue.

Step 3

Now this is likely the most difficult part of the process if you are a beginner, and is possible to skip altogether if you prefer to skip the glass inserts.

**There is no reason why you can't just leave this space open, but if you want glass, you will need to carve out a 1/4″ setback on the inside of the cabinet door all the way around the interior of the cabinet (so closest to the opening you have created with your rails and stiles). This will be where the glass pieces (or plexi if you prefer this) will rest. Use a router and 1/4″ rabbiting bit to do this.

Step 4

Create the X shape trim: Use 2″ Finish Nails from the sides of the cabinet into the X pieces and Wood Glue. The easiest way to do this is to turn your trim piece at the appropriate angle and mark off where it needs to be cut. If you are using glass this trim piece will be 3/4″x1/2″ but if you are leaving it vacant (this is what I will likely do and what you might do if you are a beginner, not to mention you will save the cost of glass etc.) then 3/4″x3/4″ is more appropriate.

**To attach the glass, place glass of the appropriate size inside from the back of the cabinet and run a line of clear silicone around the
edge to hold it in place. You can also purchase mirror/glass holders and attach them to give you an added layer of stability.

Are you getting excited yet? You should be starting to see it take shape for certain at this point…yay for this cabinet!

Step 5

Attach the Doors to the Cabinet: I have recommended a certain style of hinge above, but you are welcome to choose as you like. I have simply chosen those that most closely resemble the inspiration piece.

Step 6

Create the Drawers: this again is a measure as you go step. You will need to determine the width of the drawer by measuring the opening and subtracting 1/4″ to leave 1/8″ on either side. You can use 1×4 boards for the sides and back, but keep in mind, you will need to sand them down a tad to give you proper slide for your drawer.

**Do not attach the drawer face until you have placed your drawer inside it's casing. Then measure the width necessary for the drawer face as it will likely be wider than the drawer itself since the drawer casing is in place.

The measurements shown below are approximate for mine, and you may have different measurements.

Step 7

Cut the Writing Tablet to size, then attach a trim piece to the front edge using 2″ Finish nails and Glue. Again a measure as you go step, leave 1/8″ around to allow for sliding motion, but not any more than that or your tablet will be wobbly and not sturdy to use. you will attach a nob later that will likely have a longer screw piece which will also act to hold the piece and trim together, but make sure you Pre-Drill to place it.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Design

Color Connection: Gray and Neutral with Pastels

06.27.11

I am loving this color palette so much I may put together a Source Book page for it!

Sources

Images Sourced: Via Shelter, Habitually Chic, 100 Layer Cake

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Plans

Free DIY Plans for a How To Make a No-Sew Land of Nod Inspired Play Tee Pee

06.27.11

I hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving Day! It's hard to focus on Turkey, while I've Christmas and Holiday Shopping Building on the brain… the timing of this piece worked out in an interesting way, and I thought it might bring you a little closing to your turkey eating weekend..and help usher in our gift giving holiday season!

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Showcase: Built From These Plans

Builders Showcase: Vickys Play Teepee

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
1 1/2″ Hole Saw Drill Bit
Miter Saw – Optional can use hand saw and Miter Box, or Jig Saw, or…Circular Saw
Staple Gun – optional but a great way to secure the bottom of this piece.

Lumber

1 – 2×3 at 10'
1 – 2×3 at 6'
5 – 1″ Diameter Round Dowel at 6' – each store carries different sizing options…you need each of these to be 66″.

Materials

1 Large Painter's Drop Cloth – 6'x9' – you can opt for Canvas or Muslin Fabric as Well, this is really customizable a bit here…
**Fabric Glue or Iron On Hem Tape – Optional and will depend on whether or not you are a Non-Sewer, you can opt to use traditional sewing techniques for this
Velcro Squares or Strips – optional and can use staple gun to secure as well.
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies – optional if you want to have the rods be painted or stained.

Cut List

2 – 1×2 at 28″ Long Single Legs
2 – 1×2 at 6″ Upper Short Legs
2 – 1×2 at 12 1/2″ Lower Short Legs
5 – 3/4″ Round Dowel at 10 1/4″ Rails

Instructions

** If you would like to sew this in a more traditional manner, please note that if you make small pockets in the bottom and top corners of each seam connecting the panels for the rods, you will not need to use the base pieces. The original constructs in a tent like manner…Sew the panels together, leave the corners undone and create a little pouch to hold the rods. The tension between the rods and the tent will keep it popped up and easily able to take down. You can also of course construct in the manner described below, and simply use your machine to create seams and hems.

Step 1

Cut your Boards to the Outside and Largest Size as indicated by the dimensions below. Then cut the corners at a 54 Degree angle. You don't need to attach the boards to each other, the weight of them is simply there to help give this strength and stability since we won't be relying upon the tension from the tent. Then add your 1 1/2″ hole in 1 of the corners of each board except for the boards near the opening. One of those will have 2 holes.

Step 2

Cut your Drop cloth or Fabric to size. Each Triangular Panel will be roughly 61″ prior to hemming, so cut them in an alternating triangular pattern.

Step 3

Fold the Bottom 1/2″ under twice to create a 1/2″ hem and run a thin line of Fabric Glue underneath to secure. Press in place, and allow to set up, then do the same for the top hem and continue in this manner for all 5 panels. Do not hem sides yet. My recommendation would be to secure squares or strips of velcro to both the bottom hem and the bottom side of the Base pieces so you can secure the tee pee tent and remove as needed (for washing or storing). The instructions for velcro can be found on the packaging and can be purchased at your local hardware store or Fabric store. To create the tee pee shape with your panels, lay the inside (not the side showing when finished) face up and lay 2 triangular panels side by side. Fold the adjacent sides up 1″ and use fabric glue to press the 1″ folds to each other. They will be sticking up at this point. Press firmly and allow to glue to set up. Consider placing stacks of books or something heavy along the seams to hold in place. Do this for 4 out of the 5 panels. The diagram below shows the top and bottom 1″ (total) folded in and the manner you should line up and glue the sides together:

Step 4

For the Front Panel, you will split your canvas piece directly up the middle 2/3 or 3/4 of the way, and fold over 1/4″ along that cut 2 times.. This will give you a clean 1/4″ hem to keep this piece looking professional and so it will remain durable.

Step 5

Once you have completed your hems on the front panel, you can glue it to the remaining panels in the same manner you glued the 4 of them together. Be advised that attaching this last panel will pull the other panels up toward you and form the final shape of the tee pee. Once that has set up and you feel comfortable it is ready to attach to the bases, go ahead and velco on to the bottom of the bases, or if you prefer staple them in place, underneath and out of site. Please note that since they won't attach to the dowels, and since the bases aren't attached to each other, this will still be collapsible. Attach them so that you have about 59″ diagonally left above ground so to speak. **If you would like to add the applique as shown in the original, it is simply a zig zag shape in an alternating color and you can glue that in place as well. This is a good step to do this so you don't have to work on an not so flat surface while attaching. Felt would probably be a good choice for this. The image below shows the dimensions I used for this, which simply used the sides of each panel as my width and a vertical dimension of 8″ total.

Oky dok, now insert your rods into the pre-made holes like the diagram below shows, you will need to insert them into the inside of the tee pee first and out the center hole, then place into the base holes…and voila…play time fun for hours on end!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Belgard Cabinet Part 1

06.27.11

This piece is the first of several that will be included in the X Collection. This piece is one of my favorite furniture pieces, hands down…out there on the market right now. In fact it isn't even badly prices at $899 but that is still more than this gal can afford, so…I bring you DIY Build It! Plans so that we don't have to go without! Can I get a little Yahoo?

I have made some alterations to the design to allow for the easiest purchasing of materials possible, but there are still some quirks and it has some tricky areas. For you beginners out there, skip the glass insert and just leave the cabinet door vacant but with the X trim, this will be easiest for you and more cost effective.

This is a 2 part project! For part 2 of this project click here

$75-$200

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Saw

Miter Saw or Miter box, or a square and a saw will also get the job done. This is only for the X on the Cabinets.

Router for Glass inset if you choose to go this route.

Lumber

4 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF – 4'x8'

2 – 1×10 @ 6'

7 – 1×4 @ 6'

2 – 1×4 @ 8'

6 – 1×2 @ 6'

1 – 1×2 @ 8'

3 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Trim @ 8'

3 – 3/4″x3/4″ Trim @ 6' (this assumes no glass insert. if you plan for the glass insert, you will need to adjust this for 25″ lengths at 3/4″x1/2″ and a quantity of 6)

Materials

2″ Screws

1 1/4″ Screws

3″ Finish Nails

2″ Finish Nails

Hinges in this style but an oil rubbed bronze are what is used on the inspiration piece. This is your choice however.

Small nob drawer pulls for the writing tablet and Drawers, see inspiration image to match.

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

3/4″ Plywood or MDF:

A. 1 – 61 1/2″ x 15″ (Base)

B. 2 – 27 1/2″ x 15″ (Center Dividers)

C. 2 – 31 3/4″ x 15″ (Outside Edges)

D. 1 – 63 x 31 3/4″ (Back)

E. 1 – 63 x 15″ (Top)

F. 9 – 20″ x 15″ (Top / Bottom Drawer Casings and Writing Tablet Bottom)

G. 3 – 20″ x 14 1/4″ (Cabinet Shelves)

H. 3 – approx 16 3/4″ x 14 1/4″ (Drawer Bases)

I. 3 – approx 17 1/2″ x 15″ (Writing Tablets) mine worked out to 17.5 for the center tablet and 17.25 for the outside, but again, measure as you go.

J. 6 – 15″ x 3 3/4″ Drawer Casing Sides)

Boards:

1×4's:

K. 1 – 1×4 @ 61 1/2″ (Footer)

L. 6 – 1×4 @ 15″ (Drawer Sides)

M. 3 – 1×4 @ approx 18 1/4″ (Drawer Backs)

N. 3 – 1×4 @ approx. 19″ (Footer trim)

O. 2 – 1×4 @ 64 1/2″ (Base Trim)

P. 2 – 1×4 @ 16 1/2″ (Base Trim)

Q. 3 – 1×4 @ approx 19″ (Drawer Faces)

1×2's:

R. 6 – 1×2 @ 15″ (Writing Tab Spacers)

S. 4 – 1×2 @ 32 1/2″ (Front Divider Trim)

T. 6 – 1×2 @ approx. 21″ (Cabinets)

U. 6 – 1×2 @ approx 16″ (Cabinets)

3/4 x 3/4″ Trim:

V. 9 – @ 19″ (Writing Tablet Casings & Top of Drawer Casing Trim)

W. 6 – @ approx 3/4″ (Writing Tab Casings)

X. 3 – @ approx 17 1/2″ (Writing Tab Trim)

Y. 3 – @ 20″ (Shelf Trim) this step is not shown but you will cut your shelf 3/4″ less deep than it's actual measurements so that you can trim it out with this and not see the plywood edge. OR you can purchase Edge Banding and cut the shelf to size.

Z. 6 – @ 25″ (X on Cab Doors) OR if you are using a glass insert, this will be a 3/4″x1/2″ trim instead at 25″.

A1. 2 – 1×10's @ 65″ (Cabinet Top)

Instructions

This is a 2 part project! For part 2 of this project click here

**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.

Step 1

Begin by attaching the Center Dividers to the Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 2

Attach the Outside Edges to the Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue

Step 3

Attach the Back to the Center, Outside and Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 4

Attach the Top and the Footer: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue

Step 5

Build the Drawer Casings then slide into the Cabinet and Fasten: Use 2″ Screws to build the Casings and 1 1/4″ Screws to fasten (once you insert the casing into the cabinet) to the Cabinet Outsides and Center Dividers.

Step 6

Attach the Spacers then attach the Writing Platform Base: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 7

Attach the Front Trim: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. I wish I could say to use finish nails here so that you have the least amount of blemish to the Trim, but you will be hanging the cabinet doors from this front piece and you need it to be well attached.

Step 8

Attach the Cabinet Top: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 9

Attach the Remainder of the Front Trim: For these pieces you can use 2″ Finish Nails and Wood Glue as they won't be bearing any weight.

Step 10

Attach the Base Trim around the outside Perimeter: Use 2" Finish Nails and Wood Glue.

Step 11

You can also attach the shelf permanently with screws or skip them all together if the shelf pegs are not your fav.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Design

Color Connection: Teal & Mustard

06.27.11

This image solidifies my love for a bit of black and white with neutrals and some shades of green, blue and yellow!

Color Palette: White, Taupe, Mustard, Teal, Black

Sources

Image Via: Mario Testino for Vogue UK 2008 Kate Moss via C Sebastion

Listed from Left to Right, and Top to Bottom

Resources: Bedding Photo from Mark Eden Schooley via Oh Joy!, Vases, Earrings, Hair Piece, Handkerchiefs, Ombre Rug , Clutch Purse, Fabric, Cowl Neck Hoodie, Feathers, Photo, Cupcake Papers, Parisian Cake Stand, Cookware, Paper Lantern, Photo, Photo, Pillow, Necklace, Poppy Ring, Invitations, Peacock Locket

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Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 2×2 Collection Parsons Tower

06.27.11

The Parsons Collection of furniture at a Certain Specialty Retailer is so versatile and can be used with any style of decor. If you like traditional or french country, this unassuming shelf allows you to display without getting in the way.

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Saw

Lumber

4- 2×3 @ 8' (Legs, 4 of the Side Bars)

5 – 2×3 @ 10' (8 of the Side Bars and the Aprons)

4 – 1×3 @ 10' (Front Shelf Frames)

2 – 1×3 @ 8' (Side Shelf Frames)

4 – 1×2 @ 10' (Front Back Shelf Cleats)

2 – 1×2 @ 8' (Side Shelf Cleats)

1 – 3/4″ Plywood Sheet @ 4'x8'

Materials

4″ Screws

2″ Screws

1 1/4″ Screws

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Anti – Tip Kit (they sell this at most big box hardware stores)

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2×3 @ 78 1/8″ (Legs)

12 – 2×3 @ 13″ (Side Bars)

12 – 1×3 @ 39″ (Front Shelf Frame)

12 – 1×3 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Shelf Frame)

12 – 1×2 @ 37 1/2″ (Front Back Shelf Cleats)

12 – 1×2 @ 10″ ( Side Shelf Cleats)

12 – 2×3 @ 37″ (Front and Back Aprons)

6 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 37 1/2″x11 1/2″ (Shelves)

Instructions

Notes: The not to be named specialty retailer who sells this beauty recommends using a wall mounting bracket to support this shelf, and so do I. This seems like it might be a climbing magnet for children especially since as I was drawing this plan my 2 year old came over and said…”I'm gonna climb that ladder and then I'll be so big”…eek. I am including this Anti-Tip Kit in the materials list, so please do consider purchasing one especially if you have littles in your home!

You can build this with corner aprons for the Shelf Supports if you have a miter saw, it's pretty easy, I chose the method below so that those of you who don't have one can still produce this shelving!

**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines.

Step 1

Build the Side Frames (2): Attach the Side Bars to the Legs, space the Side Bars 12 5/8″ apart and flush with the bottom (outside edge when vertical) of your Legs. Use 4″ Screws and Wood Glue

The Legs will lay on edge while the Side Bars will rest flat when attaching.

There should be a 1″ difference in width if the Side Bars run horizontally, that will house the Shelf Frame.

Step 2

Build the Frames for the Shelves (6): Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue Then attach the Shelf Cleats using 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 3

Attach the Shelf Frames to one of the Side Frames: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. The Sides of the Shelf Frames should line up perfectly with the Side Bars on the Side Frames and will fit right inside the U-Shape that the Legs and Side Bars have created.

Make sure you leave the recessed area created by the Shelf Cleats facing upward. This is where your actual shelf will sit, so logic dictates you need this facing up to hold it.

Step 4

Attach the Other Side Frame to the Shelf Frames: Fasten in the same manner, use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 5

Attach the Front and Back Aprons (Red): Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from the inside of the Shelf Frame into the apron. This should be flush with the Shelf Frame.

Step 6

The basic components of your shelving unit are built, now you need to cut out your Plywood Shelf. Drop it in once you have it appropriately sized. It isn't really necessary to attach it to the Shelf Supports, in fact I kind of like the idea of them being removable for painting, cleaning etc.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!