The Design Confidential

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Wall Mounted China Storage

07.03.11

This is a fabulous way to store your dinnerware or china and is easy to build and budget friendly. This will blend seamlessly with your Dream Kitchen if you simply match the wood specie and trim.Perfect height for basic dinner plates and of course can be adjusted accordingly if you have a specialized size.

Edit view

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
5/8″ Drill Bits
Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards
Kreg Jig – Optional
Finish Nailer – Optional and can substitute with a hammer and finish nail set

Lumber

1/2 sheet- 3/4″ Ply

1/4 sheet – 1/2″ Ply

1/2 sheet – 1/4″ Ply

2 – 1/2″ round dowels at 6' or 11 linear feet total.

1 – 1×3 at 6'

1 – 1×2 at 10'

Materials

1″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Kreg Jig
1 1/4″ Wood Screws
5/8″ Wood Screws
5/8″ Brad Nails
2″ Finish Nails
3″ Dry Wall Screws or Wall Dog Anchor Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1/4″ Ply at 15 1/8″ x 11 1/4″ Outside Panels
1 – 1/4″Ply at 29 1/2″ x 15 1/8″ Back
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 11 7/8″ x 10 7/8″ Upper Interior Panel
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 1 3/4″ x 10 7/8″ Lower Interior Panel
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 29 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ Shelf and Top
13 – 1/2″ Round Dowels at 11 1/2″ Racking
3 – 1×2 at 28 1/2″ Cleats and Top Rack Support
4 – 1×2 at 39″ Face Frame Top of box, and top trim of front/ back box
2 – 1×2 at 15 1/8″ Face Frame Stiles (Sides )
1 – 1×2 at 27″ Face Frame Rails (Top)
1 – 1×3 at 27″ Face Frame Rails (Bottom)

Instructions

This china or dinnerware storage is a fabulous addition to a dream kitchen and is really simple to build. Cost effective too! If you have any trouble, please contact me and I'm happy to help.

To drill your dowel holes, use a bit slightly larger than the dowel dimension and put a collar on your drill to stop you from drilling all the way through your bottom shelf. You only need to drill in about 1/4″, so placing even a piece of masking tape on your drill bit at 1/4″ mark will let you know when you need to stop and pull your bit back out.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your Outside panels to Size.

Step 2

Cut your Interior Panels to size.

Step 3

Fasten the Cleats to the Interior Panels. Use a Pocket Hole system set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ Pocket hole Screws, if you can, and otherwise use 1 1/4″ Screws from the outside of the interior panels to fasten the cleats in place.

Step 4

Drill your Holes in the remaining Cleat/Top support and Your bottom shelf. Use a 5/8″ Drill bit and place a collar on your bit at the 1/4″ mark. this will keep you from drilling into your shelf for anything deeper than 1/4″. You don't want your racking dowels to fall through, so this is fairly important. You can simply use a piece of tape and wrap it around your bit at the 1/4″ mark to let you know visually when you need to stop drilling. space your holes approximately 2″ apart and begin your holes 2 3/4″ in from the outside edge of your shelf. This would equal 2 1/4″ in from the outside edges of the cleat/top support. Then space very 2″ after that.

Fasten your cleat/top support and shelf in place after you insert your racking dowels. The Cleat/top support will sit flush with the top of the interior panels and the shelf will divide the 2 interior panels.

Then fasten your Top (red) in place as well. If you can secure your shelf and top with a pocket hole system, it will make things stronger and easier, otherwise you can simply screw down and glue in place.

Step 5

Fasten the Back in Place. Use 5/8″ Screws or Brad Nails.

Create your Face Frame. Use your Pocket Hole system on the rails set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ Pocket hole Screws, otherwise use glue and 2″ finish nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Leave a comment

Entertaining

Happy 4th of July Weekend

07.02.11

With this truly colorful and exciting holiday upon us, I thought it was only fitting to share some of the beautiful and delicious 4th of July ideas I have come across. If you need some last minute decorating ideas, or party planning inspiration…feast your eyes on this amazing spread of Red, White, & Blue!

Sources

The original sources for Each Recipe, Party Inspiration, Decorative Item, DIY Project or Holiday Images can be found by clicking on the particular item of interest found here…Enjoy!

The Design Confidential

Leave a comment

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Mod Office 3 Drawer Unit

07.01.11

I am excited to share this series with you because I am in desperate need of office furniture and I love how flexible and customizable this collection is.

We are going to begin with the 3 Drawer Unit and I will share the table top plans with you next.

Edit view

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Iron – for the edge banding.
Saw – a jig saw, table saw or circular saw will be needed to make cuts and carve out the hand holds
Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but will have a few unsightly attachments (make sure you countersink to prevent this as much as possible if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System) for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using
one.

Lumber

1 – 1×2 at 10'

**Choose Plywood for staining, MDF for painting and Melamine if you prefer a unit that is white (no painting required and very durable).

2 Sheet – 3/4″ Plywood, MDF, or Melamine (my lumber supply sells 2' x 4' sheets for around 1/3 of the cost of an entire 4' x 8' sheet, check to see if yours will do this for you and you will reduce your cost quite a bit and you won't have a lot of excess) You would need 1 full sheet @ 4'x8' and 1 @ 2'x4'

OR…you can purchase 2 full sheets to make 2 of these units and form the desk!

1 Sheet of 1/2″ Plywood, MDF or Melamine.

Materials

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws.

2″ Screws – ** Kreg Owners will not need this item and will use the 1 1/2″ PHS in place of this.
1 1/4″ Screws
1″ Screws
3/4″ Iron on Edge Banding that matches the material you choose to build with.
Drawer Slides – corner or side mount, 20″ should suffice, you can also use 22″ if you need to (if selection is limited).
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1×2 at 15 1/2″ (Base Frame)
2 – 1×2 at 21″ (Base Frame)
2 – 1×2 at 14″ (Connector Supports)

3/4″ Sheet goods:

1 – 3/4″ at 15 1/2 x 22 1/2″ (Unit Base)
2 – 3/4″ at 17 x 24″ (Drawer Base and Top)
2 – 3/4″ at 26 1/4 x 24″ (Sides)
2 – 3/4″ at 22 1/2 x 15 1/2″ (Shelves)
1 – 3/4″ at 15 1/2 x 26 1/4″ (Back)
2 – 3/4″ at 15 1/4 x 6 1/4″ (Top Drawer Faces)
1 – 3/4″ at 15 1/4 x 13″ (Bottom Drawer Face)

1/2″ Sheet goods:

4 – 1/2″ at 22 1/2 x 5″ (Top Drawer Sides)
2 – 1/2″ at 13 1/4 x 5″ (Top Drawer Backs)
2 – 1/2″ at 13 1/4 x 4″ (Top Drawer Fronts)
3 – 1/2″ at 15 1/4 x 22 1/2″ (Drawer Bottoms)
2 – 1/2″ at 22 1/2 x 12 1/2″ (Bottom Drawer Sides)
1 – 1/2″ at 12 1/4 x 12 1/2″ (Bottom Drawer Back)
1 – 1/2″ at 13 1/4 x 11 1/2″ (Bottom Drawer Front)

Instructions

Step 1

Build the unit. If you have a Kreg Jig, create your pocket holes on the inside and underside wherever possible to avoid unsightly holes to fill later.

**You might want to attach the back (in the step below) first so that you can use Pocket screws and fasten it in place more easily (no shelves in the way, etc). Set your KJ for 3/4″ stock and use your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.

Leave a 3/4″ setback on both the front and back where you fasten the shelves in place. Use 2″ screws.

Step 2

Fasten the Back in place. Use 2″ Screws or perhaps you did this in the step above if you are using a Kreg Jig.

Step 3

Build out the top Drawers. You will use 1/2″ Sheet goods for the actual drawers, but 3/4″ for the Face. You will carve out the hand hold on the Face at 1″x6″ according to the diagram below. Use 1″ Screws and Fasten the Face to the Drawer Front from the inside to hide your screws. The Face will have a 3/4″ overhang on the bottom and 1/2″ overhang on either side, but the top will be flush with the top of the drawer unit. The top of the Drawer Front will be flush with the bottom of the hand hold carve out.

You can use either corner mount drawer slides or side mount. Corner mount is a tad easier to install since, you don't have the extra worry of making sure they are lined up properly (they can only go where there is a corner…) but I feel like the side mount have a slightly more polished appearance (depending on what variety you choose) and tend to have less of an issue with weight over time.

Step 4

Build out the Bottom Drawer. Use 1″ Screws and fasten the Face to the Drawer Front from the inside. Leave 1/2″ overhang on either side of the Face, the top and bottom of the Face will be Flush with the Drawer Sides. Carve out the 1″x6″ hand hold in the same location as the upper drawers as shown in the diagram below. The top of the Drawer Front will be flush with bottom of the hand hold carve out.

Step 5

Attach the Unit Base to the Drawer Base: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and be sure to leave 3/4″ around the perimeter of the Unit Base. The image shows the underside of the Base and it

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Leave a comment

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge

06.30.11

Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more…

We continue our Dream Kitchen Series with an Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge.

$25-$50

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Saw

**Kreg Jig – optional, can be done without…but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.

** Finish nail gun – optional, but will make the process faster and easier especially if you are working on an entire kitchen!

Lumber

**You can buy full sheets if you plan to build several cabinets.

**1/4 sheet = 2'x4' for this plan

1/2 sheet- 3/4″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine).

1/4 sheet – 1/2″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine)

1/4 sheet – 1/4″ Plywood (this will be showing on the sides of outside cabinets, but will not show on the back or inside cabinet walls).

1 – 1×2 at 8'

1 – 1×2 at 6'

1 – 1×3 at 6'

Materials

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1″ Pocket Hole Screws, 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws

**2″ Screws – only necessary if not using a Pocket Hole System

1 1/4″ Screws

5/8″ Screws

2″ Finish Nails

3″ drywall screws or wall dog anchors

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1/4″ Ply @ 23 1/4″ x 18 1/8″ Outside Panels

2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 23 1/4″ x 14 7/8″ Inside Upper Panels

2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 1 3/4″ x 23 1/4″ Inside Lower Panels

2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 23 1/4″ x 35 1/2″ Shelves (Top and Bottom)

2 – 1×2 @ 34 1/2″ Cleats

2 – 1×2 @ 18 1/8″ Sides of Face Frame

1 – 1×2 @ 33″ Top Rail Face Frame

1 – 1×2 at 14 1/8″ Center Vertical Stile Face Frame

1 – 1×3 @ 33″ Bottom Rail Face Frame

2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Solid Trim for Shelves @ 16 1/2″

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your Outside Panels to size as indicated in the diagram below.

Step 2

We will begin constructing the interior panels: I have made this so easy for you in the way I have designed this. You don't need a table saw to create Dadoes…it's just plain easy.

Cut your interior panel pieces to size (this will be mirrored on the opposite side, so truly you will need 4 pieces total).

Step 3

Attach the cleats at the back of your side panels. It will sit flush with the top and back of the panels on both sides and flush with the top and back of the bottom strip panel as well. These can be attached using your Pocket Hole System set for 1/2″ stock or with 1 1/4″ Screws from the outside of the panels. This is how you will ultimately attach your cabinet to the wall using your dry wall screws.

Step 4

Insert your bottom shelf and the top. The bottom shelf will help you align your interior panels so they “fit” the outside panels properly. Attach the bottom shelf using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock. It will attach to the bottom interior panels. Attach the top to the interior panels, and cleat. Use your Kreg Jig to attach from the interior panels underneath set for 1/2″ stock or 5/8″ screws from the top down into the interior panels.

Step 5

Use 5/8″ screws to attach the Outside Panels to the Interior Panels, from the inside. Be sure to countersink.

Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) and the vertical center stile, set for 3/4″ stock. Then attach to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails. If you aren't using a PHS, attach the Frame pieces directly to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

The Design Confidential

Leave a comment

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Upper Wall Spice Cabinet Unit

06.30.11

We continue with our Dream Kitchen Series after taking a short sojourn through the land of chairs and bookshelves.
We will be covering a more specialized piece today with an upper wall spice cabinet unit. This is designed to fit next to a pantry unit or perhaps next to the area where your refrigerator will sit with upper cabinets above it.
This unit is deep, the same depth as a pantry and I am designing it to go along with a pull out multi-level drawer/shelf, however there is no reason why you can't modify this to use normal adjustable shelves as well.

Edit view

Tools

Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
Kreg Jig – optional but very helpful

Lumber

1/2 sheet – 1/4” plywood – will be visible and should be a decent grade and specie
1/2 sheet – 1/2” plywood – can be low grade
1/2 sheet – 3/4” plywood – can be low grade
1 – 1×2 at 8'
1 – 1×3 at 6'

Materials

1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Wood Screws – if not using pocket hole jig
5/8″ Wood Screws
5/8″ Brad Nails
2″ Finishing Nails
3″ Dry Wall Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1/4” ply at 23 1/4”x 30” (outsides)
1 – 1/4” ply at 11 1/2” x 30” (back)
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 26 3/4″ x 22 7/8″ (upper interior panels)
2 – 1/2” ply at 1 3/4” x 22 7/8” (Lower interior Panels)
2 – 3/4” ply at 11 1/2” x 22 7/8” (bottom shelf and cabinet top)
2 – 1×2 at 10 1/2” (cleats)
2 – 1×2 at 30” (face frame stiles)
1 – 1×2 at 9” (face frame rail)
1 – 1×3 at 9” (lower face frame rail)

Instructions

This cabinet making technique is one of my own invention, meant for folks who don’t own table saws or routers. If you do happen to own a table saw, you are welcome to make this in a more traditional sense and opt for 3/4” ply for the outside panels and carve out dadoes and grooves in the spaces I have created with the interior panels.

If you prefer to make this with adjustable shelves, you will need to create them from 3/4” ply and should use 3/4” x 3/4” square trim on the front edge. Otherwise I will be following this plan with a pull out shelving unit for this cabinet.

Step 1

Cut your outside panels to size. Be sure they are perfectly square. You can check for square by measuring the diagonals and making sure they match as well as measuring the corner angles for 90 degree accuracy.

Step 2

Cut your interior panels to size. If you plan on using adjustable shelves, drill your holes according to the diagram below. Otherwise, the next plan in this series is for a pull out unit with multiple levels. Don’t forget you will need to mirror this image on the other side, so you will need 4 interior panels in total. The interior panels are constructed from 1/2” plywood.

Step 3

Attach the cleats to the interior panels, if you aren’t using a pocket hole system, be sure to countersink your screws from the outside of the interior panels so that they are flush or below the surface of the panels. Each cleat should be flush with the top of it’s respective interior panel (top cleat with top panel and the lower cleat with lower panel).

Step 4

Add the top and bottom shelves to the interior panels, using glue and a pocket hole system if you have one, if you aren’t using a pocket hole jig, simply glue the bottom shelf in place and screw to the upper interior panel using 5/8” screws and be sure to countersink. Once the shelves are in place, tack on the outside panels using glue and 5/8” screws from the inside. Leave 3/8” overhang on the backside, Tack on your back using 7/8” brad nails.

Step 5

Create your face frame. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and place your pocket holes in the rails. attach to the cabinet using 2” finish nails. If you aren’t using a pocket hole jig, simply fasten your face frame to the cabinet using finish nails and glue.

You will attach your cabinet to the wall using 3” drywall screws through the cleats. We will cover an easy way to install cabinets in a future plan.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Leave a comment

Showcase

More Mitchell Cubbies

06.30.11

I have tall ceilings in my kitchen, and was looking for a way to decorate the wall above the cabinets. When I saw these on Pottery Barn's website, I LOVED them, and, even though I've seen many ways of putting them together, I liked Ry's take the best. So I altered the dimensions so I could use the scraps I had on-hand, took the assembly method listed on the site, and threw 'em together. I do plan on adding label holders like PB does, but that can wait 😉

This was a quick, easy build thanks to the clear directions here on TDC!

Free – I used scraps

When I finished the cubbies, I used a latex paint and painted them turquoise and let them dry. Then I painted over that with two coats of high gloss white and let that dry completely. Took my random orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper and sanded random places to reveal the turquoise underneath the white.

Built From These Plans

Mitchell Cubby Organizers

Sources

http://www.potterybarn.com/products/mitchell-cubby-bookcase/

Note

If you are planning on using these for anything other than RARELY accessed wall storage, follow the plans exactly. I was able to use mine as a “bench” while I was working on other projects, but I would imagine a ton of usage would take it's toll on this.

Lady Goats

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Mod Office Tall Shelf

06.30.11

We covered this collection almost a year ago, and it's just as valid today as it was then…I adore the Mod Office Collection!

Building 2 of these with the Top forms a furniture piece that is bar height, a craft or desk area, that works well with a bar stool.

$50-$75

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig

Iron – for the edge banding.

Lumber

2 – 1×2 at 8'

2 Sheets – 3/4″ Plywood, MDF, or Melamine

**Choose Plywood for staining, MDF for painting and Melamine if you prefer a unit that is white (no painting required and very durable).

Materials

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws.

For MDF choose Coarse Thread Screws or Dry Wall Screws.

2″ Screws – ** Kreg Owners will not need this item and will use the 1 1/2″ PHS in place of this.

1 1/4″ Screws

3/4″ Iron on Edge Banding that matches the material you choose to build with.

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 3/4″ @ 38 x 14″ (Top and Bottom)

2 – 3/4″ @ 34 1/4 x 13″ (Front Sides)

1 – 3/4″ @ 34 1/4 x 12 1/2″ (Center Panel)

1 – 3/4″ @ 34 1/4 x 14″ (Back Panel)

1 – 3/4″ @ 36 1/2 x 12 1/2″ (Unit Base)

2 – 3/4″ @ 24 1/4 x 14″ (Longer Back Shelf)

2 – 3/4″ @ 12 1/2 x 12 1/4″ (Shorter Front Shelf)

3 – 1×2 @ 11″ Base Connectors

2 – 1×2 @ 12 1/2″ Base Frame

2 – 1×2 @ 35″ Base Frame

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue or you can use 2″ Screws and glue, just be sure to countersink for the most professional appearance.

Step 2

Fasten the Shelves in Place: Begin with the longer shelves on the backside and use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue or you might use 2″ Screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Step 3

Attach the Top: Use 2″ Screws.

Step 4

Attach the Base: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the base frame together, and to attach the connector pieces to the base frame. Then use 1 1/4″ Screws and glue to fasten the connector pieces to the unit itself.

Use Iron on Edge Banding for exposed edges. You can generally purchase this to match your particular materials used for building.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

The Design Confidential

Leave a comment

DIY

Soil Structure and Timing your Garden to Perfection

06.30.11

Before I jump right into it, allow me to introduce myself. My name is Erin and I have a blog called The Impatient Gardener. It’s part gardening, part home decor and part learning-as-I-go DIY stuff.

I’m a master gardener in southeastern Wisconsin where I have an ever-expanding zone 5 garden. I love almost all kinds of gardening, from perennial and mixed borders, to containers overflowing with colorful annuals to vegetable and herb gardening. But enough with the introductions. Let’s get on with it.

And getting on with it is exactly what most of us who dream of gardening are anxious to do right about now. Who doesn’t want to get out there and start digging? And this is when the hardest part of gardening comes in. You have to resist the urge. When you are most eager to garden is probably exactly the wrong time to be in your garden.

Here’s why: The worst thing you can do to your garden is trudge around in your beds when the soil is saturated with winter’s leftovers and spring’s rain. It’s all about soil structure. Since soil structure falls under the category of “Possibly the most boring part of gardening to discuss” I’m not going to get into a lot of detail here, but think of soil structure as the texture of your soil. It might be very fine (sandy) or clumpy (clay) or, probably, something in between. The enemy of soil structure is compaction. That’s one reason why worms are so great to have in your garden: they are little aerators. It’s why gardeners love to add compost to their beds, not only for the nutritive benefits, but primarily for the wonderful benefits to your soil’s structure.

This beautiful soil is pretty close to perfect. If a handful of your soil forms a clump when you squeeze it and doesn't break apart into something that looks a little bit like this when you rap it with your fist, then it's too wet to work in.

So imagine you have a mix of wet clay and dirt and you pick up a handful, squeeze it, then set it down to dry out for a few days. When you come back, that handful of clay and dirt will have turned into an almost solid wad of unbreakable material (think about a paperweight you probably made in second grade). Now pretend you are a little plant root, maybe a little thicker than a hair on your head. Would you like to make your way through a would-be paperweight? Walking in your garden when the ground is saturated has the same effect. Any clay molecules (and most of us have at least some clay soil) will bind together, create hard-as-rock clumps and further compact your soil. Plants have a tough job ahead of them to thrive anywhere, don’t make it even harder by compacting their home.

I know you’re feeling disappointed right now, but fear not, you can still garden. Of course exactly what you can do, and when, depends on your climate, but most everyone should have already or can now do their late winter/early spring pruning (it really is the best time to do it). You can also do some light raking (standing outside your beds) and pretty much anything you can accomplish without stepping in a bed.

So when is it safe to really get in the garden? Some of us, of course, still have frozen ground, so feel free to tromp around if that’s the case (but do be a little cautious of spring bulbs popping up). Otherwise, you want to wait until the ground is sufficiently dry. You can check this by taking a handful of dirt and checking it out: When you squeeze it does it form a solid clump? Too wet. Does it crumble when you tap it with your fist? Then you’re probably safe. But a complete ban on bed-stepping is pretty hard to carry out, so if you absolutely MUST walk in your beds, consider using a board to step on to spread the load a little. In the meantime, to satisfy the gardening itch, spend some time making a plan of attack for spring, making mental notes of what needs moving, dividing and replacing so you’re ready to roll as soon as your soil is. Good luck and good gardening (or waiting, as the case may be).

Note

To visit Erin and see what she’s up to in between her visits here with us, visit her at her site – The Impatient Gardener.

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

The Impatient Gardener

Leave a comment

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Desk Hutch

06.30.11

Another piece for our Hudson Collection! The hutch for the beautiful desk we covered here yesterday! Thanks Loren, I heart you soooo much!

$25-$50

Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

1 – 1×2 at 8’

1 – 1×2 at 6’

1 – 1×6 at 8’

1 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood or MDF

1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood or MDF

Materials

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

1 1/4” Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 1×6 at 7 3/4” Drawer Sides

2 – 1×6 at 14 5/8” Drawer Backs

2 – 1×6 at 16 1/8” Drawer Fronts

1 – 1×2 at 65” Base Trim

4 – 1×2 at 10 1/2” Base and Top Trim

1 – 1×2 at 28 1/2” Front Trim Center Unit

2 – 1×2 at 18 3/4” Trim

4 – 1×2 at 5 1/2” Drawer Trim

4 – 1×2 at 16 1/8” Drawer Trim

1 – 3/4” ply at 62” x 10 1/2” Base/Bottom

1 – 3/4” ply at 64” x 5 3/4” Back

4 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/4” x 5 3/4” Sides and Center Panels

2 – 3/4” ply at 7” x 14 5/8” Drawer Bottoms

2 – 3/4” ply at 9” 15 3/4” Tops

4 – 1/4” ply at 5 1/2” x 4” Panel Inserts

4 – 1/4” ply at 5 1/2” x 8 1/2” Center Unit Panels

2 – 1/4” ply at 11 1/2” x 4” Center Unit Shelves

Instructions

Step 1

Build your Base: Miter your Trim and fasten the Bottom Board to the Trim and the Trim to the front trim using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Trim using glue and then secure it in the next step by fastening it to the Sides and center panels.

Step 2

Connect the Panels: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to secure. If you aren’t using a Pocket hole system, use 2” screws and glue and be sure to countersink so that your screws are flush on the bottom.

Step 3

Build the Center Unit: I would begin with these pieces shown below since you won’t have any issue of connections with these. Use 7/8” finish nails and glue to fasten together. Then move on the the image below this to secure the outside 2 panel inserts, then fasten the trim in place in the image below that. Use your 1 1/4” finish nails to secure from the backside and from the center panels into the outside panel inserts. Use 2” Screws to fasten the 1×2 trim in the front, by securing from underneath the hutch unit, be sure to countersink and use glue.

Step 4

Build the Drawers. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 2 drawers total.

Step 5

Build and Top and Trim it out. If you would like to Fasten the Hutch to the Desk rather than leave it unattached for easy removal, then you should attach it prior to adding the tops. Do this by simply fastening the base/bottom directly to the Desk Top using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue if you prefer.

The top trim should be mitered in the front for the most professional appearance and you should secure it to the tops in the same manner you built the bottom/base in step 1. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the Tops to the Unit using 1 1/4” Finish nails and glue.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

The Design Confidential

Leave a comment

Build

What’s in Your Toolbox

06.30.11

So, I am dying to know…what’s in your toolbox? Are there any tools or tips and tricks you have that work wonderfully or perhaps don’t quite make the cut? For those of you who hang with us on the FB Fanpage you are aware that I have been in dire need of a new sander. So much so that I will be honest, my projects have fallen way behind. With a toddler in tow for all of the building and projecting I do, not having the right tools on hand to quickly get the job done, make those jobs exactly that…jobs. Part of my sanding problem is that I am a smaller person with tiny hands and most powerful sanders are either bulky and too large for my hands to hold comfortable for any extended period of time or they are simply to heavy, and sanding for ANY period of time is miserable and exhausting. Like jack hammer driver exhausting. Not so good for checking things off the list!

But, I finally pulled the trigger and got a new sander. I chose a 1/4 sheet sander by Makita that is only 2 pounds and had the highest rpms for it’s price point and the weight and hand hold simply can’t be beat for what I need. So far, a dreamboat, and that is not an exaggeration. Not to mention the sanding sheets are $1.97 per package rather than the $4 plus I was required to purchase for my previous sander. You can read the review of that here. It’s got quite a few features, but the fatigue and bulk were finally more than I could handle and the cost for paper, quite prohibitive.

It’s true love I tell you!

I mentioned in this post here, that I am a fan of drills with cords. There is no doubt there can be irritation with having a cord and most likely an extension cord in tow at all times. But I will tell you what a bigger irritation is…having a drill with batteries that isn’t ready when you need it to be. See, friends, I don’t live in a house where there is a hubs who gives a crap about tools and building. The hubs has his priorities, and those just aren’t them! But somehow he has this uncanny ability to foil my best laid plans and say…turn off a light switch that happens to be connected to the only plug where it’s logical to charge a battery pack or perhaps to misplace the crucial ingredients to an impending build, whatever they may be (ahem…countersink bits, kreg jig..you know important stuff).

While it isn’t the most convenient to cart a cord around with me that weighs almost as much as I do, it IS ALWAYS convenient to be able to use my drill wherever (thanks to my 1 million foot long extension cord) and whenever I like! yahoo

Perhaps one day I shall migrate to a tiny little impact driver with a lithium battery and not worry about the hubs losing my stuff, until then…it’s all cords all the time!

I use a DeWalt Miter Saw for the majority of my cuts. I adore this tool because it’s fast, easy, precise and completely functional…except when we are talking about wide cuts. Actually even then I might just flip the board and line her up as best I can because it’s just fast and simple. This tool to me, has so much power yet is the least scary of all the saw-like tools in my arsenal. Even my jig saw wigs me out a bit…probably just me, I tend to be a scaredy cat! Whatyagonnado?

Ah, now we are getting to some of my new toys…the hail mary to my board fastening…a ginormous CLAMP MONSTER! Can you see how beefy this friend is? Large and in Charge! no more struggling to secure boards that are wider than my arm span. nope!

Of course you can’t miss that beauty underneath my post and clamp…My new table saw! which I am thoroughly terrified of, but have in fact used with moderate success. I suppose I need just a tad more practice and perhaps some cajones…you know what I mean!

Stay tuned for Part 2 of What’s in Your Toolbox…we will continue with some other fabulous and favorite tools and products of mine! Would you like to share what’s in your toolbox? I would love to make this a regular series sharing reader tips and tricks…send me an email if you would like to contribute, even if it’s to share your follies..I have plenty of them, good thing I can laugh at myself.

The Design Confidential

Leave a comment

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Vetrina Cabinet

06.30.11

I know you guys are going to love this project! A new collection and if I’m not mistaken, this may not be available for purchase any longer…yay! This piece also comes to us from my new bff Loren! I heart her! Isn’t she so talented? Yes! If any of you would like to submit a set of plans, get in touch with me, I can help you get set up to share your work with everyone!

Edit view

Showcase: Built From These Plans

The Vetrina Cabinet Extraordinaire

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

Quarter Round Trim at 8’

2 – 1 1/2″ x 1/4″ Trim at 6' (this can also be 1×2 or any other trim style of your choice)

3 – 1×2 at 8’

2 – 1×6 at 10’

1 –1×12 at 8’

1 – 1×12 at 6’

1/4 Sheets of 3/4” Plywood or MDF (2’x4’)

1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF

Materials

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

2” Finish Nails

4 – Bun Feet or legs in a style of your preference

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1×2 at 19 1/2” Bottom Frame

2 – 1×2 at 11 1/2” Bottom Frame

6 – 1×2 at 8 5/8” Drawer Supports

6 – 1×2 at 8 1/4” Drawer Supports

2 – 1×2 at 5 1/2” Door Rails

2 – 1×2 at 24 5/8” Door Stiles

1 – 1×2 at 21” Top (if you don’t use plywood for the top)

10 – 1×6 at 10 1/4” Drawer Sides

4 – 1×6 at 7” Upper Drawer Backs

4 – 1×6 at 8 1/2” Upper Drawer Fronts

1 – 1×6 at 16 3/8” Lower Drawer Back

1 – 1×6 at 17 7/8” Lower Drawer Front

2 – 1×12 at 31 1/8” Side Panels

1 – 1×12 at 24 3/4” Center Panels

1 – 1×12 at 18” Bottom Panel

1 – 1×12 at 17 1/2” Shelf

1 – 1×12 at 21” Top

4 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/2” x 7” Upper Drawer Bottoms

1 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/2” x 16 3/8” Lower Drawer Bottom

1 – 1/4” ply at 19 1/2” x 31 7/8” Back Panel

8 – 1 1/2″ x 1/4″ Trim at 8 1/2″ Upper Drawer Trim

10 – 1 1/2″ x 1/4″ Trim at 5 1/2″ Upper and Lower Drawer Trim Sides

2 – 1 1/2″ x 1/4″ Trim at 17 7/8″ Lower Drawer Trim

Quarter Round Trim measured to fit your particular top and bottom

Instructions

Step 1

Build your Base: Miter your frame corners and fasten together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Attach your bun feet. You will most likely pre-drill with a 1/4” drill bit, but this will need to be determined by the exact feet or legs you choose.

Step 2

Attach the Bottom, Sides, Shelves, and Center Panel: Build the box and fasten the panels together as shown by using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Attach the Box to the Base using 2” screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 2” screws to fasten the panels in place and be sure to countersink and use glue. All pieces on the box will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the frame to allow for attaching the back panel later.

Step 3

Fasten the Back Panel in Place. Use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails to tack in place, and use glue.

Step 4

Build and then Fasten the Drawer Supports in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. The drawer supports (yellow/brown) will be fastened together and to the side and center panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (brown) to the stiles (yellow) and then fasten to the panels.

Step 5

Build the Drawers and Door. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You will build 4 upper drawers and 1 lower drawer. To build the door, simply build a face frame as you did for the drawer supports in the step above. Fasten the rails (yellow) to the stiles using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. To attach the plexi or glass insert, simply attach on the inside of the door using mirror clips or if you prefer you can router out a groove for the glass to slide into. You will want to router your pieces prior to fastening together, then after you fasten the lower rail and the stiles together, slide in your glass or plexi insert, then fasten the top rail in place.

If there is a bit too much wiggle room for your insert, use clear silicone on the inside to hold it in place a bit more.

Fasten the Trim to the Top and the Bottom of the unit. Miter (cope) the corners of the trim and fasten to the unit and the top using 2” finish nails and glue. The image below shows 1/2” quarter round trim, because I like the way 1/2” sits slightly below the top of the top, but please feel free to use 3/4” quarter round or any other style of trim that you prefer. Fasten the top to the unit using 2” finish nails and glue.

Finishing Instructions

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Leave a comment

Design / Shopping

Inside a Black Apple and Other Fabulous Ephemera

06.29.11

I hope to begin sharing Art with you on a regular basis…we shall see how that turns out!

This fabulous artist I am sharing with you today, is one I have personally purchased pieces from. Emily of The Black Apple has fabulous prints available for purchase in her etsy shop, found here. I adore the subject matter of her work which varies quite a bit and includes her Lost on the Midway collection and The Oddfellow’s Orphanage series. Some of the pieces from each of these collections would be fabulous in a nursery or kid’s room with a soft sort of nursery rhyme styling, though all with a bit of an edge to them, making them pretty fabulous anyplace you might have room for them. I can envision a few of the characters in her pieces as part of a fairytale series that is perfect for igniting my own creative pursuits and imagination. Others are just playful and fun with amazing color choices and attention to detail. Look closely, you are likely to find an interesting tidbit you didn’t see at first glance. I am excited to see more of her Alice series, a favorite and fantastical story, one I have always loved!

She has a couple blogs, one of which is directly related to her work seen here called Inside a Black Apple,the other caters to fabulous vintage finds and ephemera called Some Girls Wander..both are sites I highly recommend taking a peak through. I also recommend her as a fabulous and timely sender of goods, with incredible packaging. You will have to order something to see what I mean…go, buy, adore…

Sources

Images via: The Black Apple, and Inside a Black Apple

The Design Confidential

Leave a comment