There is nothing more traditional than Emerald, but when paired with a light pale yellow, traditional becomes modern and so much more fun!
Image Credits: 1,2,5,6: Adrian Briscoe 1,2,5 Adrian Briscoe via Design Love Fest for SF Girl By Bay; 3: A Bloomsbury Life; 4: Habitually Chic; 7: CB2
We continue with our Hudson Collection (click here to view the other pieces already completed)! This coffee table is perfectly paired with the other pieces in the collection and I am so proud to share another of Loren’s plans with you! I promise I haven’t retired from drafting plans…I simply have some fun and big things in the works for ya’ll (no I’m not from the south, but when things are important and heartfelt, I feel the need to don my Faux Southern Accent…lil darlins’)!
! I am glad to have you all with me during these exciting times and I can’t wait to share some of the haps around here with you!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Base: Secure the Aprons using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. They will sit flush with the front, back, and outside edges of the legs. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Aprons to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.
Build the Shelf Frames: Each Shelf Frame is different, but you will build each of them the same way, except that when you fasten them to the Legs, the Upper and Middle Shelf Frame will sit 1” in from the back edge of the back legs. This will allow for the Back Panel and Back Trim later. Connect the Rails to the Frame using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the shelves and rails in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue. Secure the Lower Frame to the Legs and Base Unit using 2” Finish Nails or your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and fasten to the legs and use glue. For the upper and middle shelf frame
Lower Shelf Frame, Middle Shelf Frame, Upper Shelf Frame:
Fasten the Drawer Dividers in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. Fasten the Drawer Dividers together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue and by placing your pocket hole screws in the rails (orange colored rails) and then secure the dividers to the existing frames by placing pocket holes in the vertical dividers (red) to attach to the existing frame already in place. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you will secure the divider pieces individually to the existing frame using 2” finish nails and glue.
Fasten the Sides and the Back in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. Fasten them to the Frames using 2” Finish Nails and glue.
Fasten the Side and Back Trim in Place. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance (not required) and tack on using 1 1/4” finish nails on the sides, and 7/8” finish nails or brad nails on the back. Use glue.
Build the Drawers. The bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. The Front Trim will sit a bit higher than the drawer front, on the top side of the drawer fascia. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 3 upper drawers and 2 lower drawers.
Images in order: Upper Drawers Rear View, Upper Drawers Front View, Lower Drawers
Build and Top Frame and fasten the Base Molding in Place. The top frame will be built using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the center rails in place, centered above the rails immediately below where they will sit. Measure this for your own build, but know that it isn’t entirely important. Fasten the Frame to the Unit using 2” Finish nails and glue. Miter your base molding and fasten to the bottom of your unit using glue and 2” Finish Nails.
Add your Top. Miter the front corners of the trim and attach using 2” finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This is the first Cabinet styling post, and we will cover several other styles for those of you who prefer a more modern sentiment or perhaps lean toward a more traditional set. We will also most likely cover a few stylings for each style type! We have lot's of material to cover, and we shall! There are other techniques for constructing cabinetry, however, I am taking the approach of designing these plans so that you don't have to invest in an entire collection of new and expensive tools to create your dream kitchen.
I am wondering if any of you are beginning to feel empowered by this series? For me, I know anytime someone shows me I can have something I am dying for, for less money, and that I can do it myself, it puts me over the moon in self empowerment!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
** Check for Square after your slab has been cut down. We wouldn't want a crooked door. Use Glue and masking tape to secure the Edge Strips in place. Allow to Dry and use Finish Nails to secure.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
The Diagram below indicates the size the door slab should be cut.
Fasten your boards to the sides, top and bottom. Use glue and 5/8″ screws from underneath.
Attach your Edge Strips around the outside. Use masking tape to secure them while the glue sets, then fasten with finish nails. The sides will sit past the top and bottom to house the top and bottom edge strips and visibly hide the edges of the edges…hahaha.
If you would like to add the bead board insert, simply cut to size and glue down.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
There are times when images of a space take hold of your attention, and utterly change the way you think about something. Those spaces deserve our complete attention, if not for just a brief moment of contemplation…it's our duty to dissect what makes us happy and determine what precisely makes a space feel warm or comfortable, what causes our heart to race or skip a beat, what excites us about a space, or takes us to that day dream vacation, and gets our wheels turning. The question is: what is it that makes a space ideal and is it a visual or an emotional response? Is it formulaic or entirely different for each and every one of us. Is it aesthetic or psychological?
Let us begin our exploitation of Space, in all it's infinite methods of madness.
This space grabbed a hold me, perhaps because I love a neutral palette… laden with texture and no where near void of dramatic gesture. Neutral but not disengaged…every fiber of my being gets involved in something that strikes my visual fancy.
Perhaps it's because it caused a revolution of thought for me. Previously not a huge fan of the “log cabin”, this article and series of images made me rethink my concept of Wintry Vacation Homes with a rustic feel and suddenly gave my perception a modern outlook.
Thank you Skona Hem, for this mental evolution…I have now changed my take on Rustic Cabins and have added them to my digital design Style Files…Modern Rustic is not an oxymoron, and I adore this.
What do you think about this space? Does it have universal appeal? Or is this singular to my experiences and taste preferences?
Images via Skona Hem
With fantastic help from Ry and her amazing site, I was able to reproduce this fantastic provence beam table! I am inspired to do the Chelsea chaise loungers next! This is my second woodworking project, and could not have done it without Ry’s help along the way. Thank you Ry!
I made the 8′ version, using reclaimed cedar 4×4 posts, 2×10 planks and redwood 2x4s. It was a truly great experience picking the lumber at the salvage yard, loading it myself, sanding, cutting, attaching, even making little mistakes along the way so I know what NOT to do next time is something I will never forget.
I did my trusses at a 45 degree angle, and drilled an umbrella hole and could not have been more pleased. AND thank you again Ry, your site made it all possible. You serve as a great inspiration!
This is set of plans for the drawer face in our Farmhouse style. I am going to post another way to construct both the drawer and door this afternoon so that you can determine your comfort level and choose accordingly. This also gives you a bit of flexibility based on readily available materials in your area and pricing of course…
Here is how the cabinet might look with the Farmhouse Drawer and Door
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
** Check for Square after your panel has been cut down. We wouldn't want a crooked drawer. Use Glue and masking tape to secure the Edge Strips in place. Allow to Dry and use Finish Nails to secure.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
The Diagram below indicates the size the drawer panel should be cut.
Fasten your boards to the sides, top and bottom. Use glue and 5/8″ screws from underneath.
Attach your Edge Strips around the outside. Use masking tape to secure them while the glue sets, then fasten with finish nails. The sides will sit past the top and bottom to house the top and bottom edge strips and visibly hide the edges of the edges…attach your bead board insert as well using glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Our Kitchen Series continues with the Basic Drawer for the Base Cabinet. We will elaborate on the False Front throughout the week with different styles and techniques, so for now, this plan is the basic drawer construction with a slab drawer front. It indicates the size of the false front, but not the styling. Of course a slab front is a styling, but I am insinuating, that for our purposes it acts as a placeholder letting us know how large it should be and how to attach it, rather than the details of it's appearance.
I am designing this series in a pick and pull format, so we will cover the basic construction of each unit, then the styling of those units will follow.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
**Kreg Jig – optional, can be done without…but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.
The materials listed for the base cabinet cover the materials needed for the drawer.
**You can sub for 1×4's for the sides to make the drawer a bit easier to build if you so desire!
**Kreg Jig Owners: 1″ Pocket Hole Screws
**1 – 3/4″ Ply at 4 3/4″ x 15 1/4″ False Front (you can also use a 1×9 cut in half for a solid wood false front)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
The Diagram below indicates how the cut pieces should fit together. Use your Pocket Hole system to fasten together, set for 1/2″ stock. Use 1″ Brads to secure the bottom to the sides and underneath to the back. Use your screws from inside the front to fasten on the False Front.
**To use boards rather than plywood for the sides and back, you can move up in height a bit and use a 1×4 or you can move down in height and use a 1×3. This gives you a bit more flexibility here so you can skip having to carve out so many pieces from plywood!
Fasten the Drawer Slides to the Sides. Be sure they are level on both sides and that you are installing them at the bottom of the sides so that they wrap the bottom slightly. Be sure they fit precisely into the Guides you installed in your Base cabinet and adjust if necessary.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Our Kitchen Series continues with the Basic Overlay Door for the Base Cabinet. We will style this baby out, throughout the week using different techniques and materials, so for now, this plan is the basic door construction with a slab front. It indicates the size of the door, but not the styling. Of course a slab front is a styling, but I am suggesting, that for our purposes it acts as a placeholder letting us know how large it should be and how it attaches, rather than the details of it's appearance. You can add molding in the center, or around the edges, and style this in a very simple yet decorative manner using this plan here.
I am designing this series in a pick and pull format, so we will cover the basic construction of each unit, then the styling of those units will follow.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
The materials listed for the base cabinet cover the materials needed for the door.
** Check for Square after your slab has been cut down. We wouldn't want a crooked door. Use Glue and masking tape to secure the Edge Strips in place.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
The Diagram below indicates the size the door slab should be cut.
Use Glue and masking tape to secure the edge strips. Once they begin to dry, secure them with finish nails. the sides will extend up beyond the slab and cover the edges of the top strips.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Pantone has released their 2011 color of the year! Last year's color was turquoise…do you think they hit the nail on the head there? Most definitely did…just take a peak around blog land to be sure. Just in case you haven't noticed the extreme overabundance of that beloved color…
Below are the other colors in this regalia and one of them may be a tad familiar to you all as the color I happened to mention here as one of my color picks for the coming year! Funny, no?
While this doesn't appear to have much to do with decor, you may be surprised to know that the two inspire each other and tend to reflect and compliment one another beautifully. While Fashion takes center stage as far as being in the public eye, you can bet your bottom dollar each of these designers take a cue from their environment and surroundings and that doesn't only include nature…their homes, places they travel, the setting for a garden party, they all have their contributions to the collections we see coming down the runway!
What we see in fashion we can virtually guarantee to see in home decor and lifestyle products…take a look around this year and notice the entry of some of the colors above, I promise you will find them.
As you head out to the paint store this season to purchase paint for all my Built projects…keep a fresh eye on some of these options, you will be ahead of the trend so to speak, since it take a bit of time for them to trickle down to main stream merchandise…
A few of the dresses sketched by the designers who helped shape this list of colors:
Do you love Pantone? Why not give the Pantone Inspired hotel a try? You don't live near Brussels? Well, I can't really help you there…but you know I luv ya!
Images from Pantone
I thought we could use something a bit more – or less- modern or industrial seeming and something with a touch of cottage chic going on! Depending on the style of trim you choose for this piece, you may actually have yourself a more traditional or even a coastal or country chic style bed, just depends on your preference.
This bed is inspired by (allegedly) the Rosenberry Rooms Cottage bed, and is offered in this fabulous Dodger blue, that I am fairly certain shall become a bit of cool trend…I know I’m loving it!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Begin building your Headboard and Foot board. Join the Panels to the First Leg Pieces using glue and your #8 countersink bit with 1 1/4″ Wood Screws.
Fasten the 2nd Layer of your Legs to the First Set. Fasten from the inside of the leg, use glue and 1 1.4″ Wood Screws. the top portion of the 2nd Set of Leg panels will be 3/4″ square trim pieces, and the lower set will be a 1×3, there should be a gap between the 2 that is equal in size to your 1×8 bed rails and will house them in a later step.
Fasten your 3rd Leg board layer. Just as for the step above, you will leave a gap between your 1×3’s that will accommodate the bed rails. I have demarcated the area in the diagram below to show the approximate size.
Add your Top Trim board and the spacer between the legs just underneath it on both the head and foot boards, then fasten your cleats in place on the bed rails and then attach the rails in place as well. Use glue and 2″ screws to fasten the trim and rails and 1 1/4″ screws for the cleats.
Once you have fastened the trim and cleats in place, lay your slats down and attach using 1 1/4″ wood screws. They should be spaced approximately 4-6 inches apart.
Add your crown molding under the top trim board and in a rectangular shape on the head and foot boards. Use one thin molding on the front edge of the top trim board that matches the rectangular trim and a larger molding type for just under the top trim board if you prefer or you can simply use regular crown molding under the top trim board and a coordinating and much smaller type on the head and foot board in a rectangular shape. You will need to miter the edges of the rectangular trim and will need to miter and cope the trim under the top trim board (which is a fancy way of saying miter inward so the sides fit nicely with the front and back pieces). Fasten with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. / Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
This forms a furniture piece that is bar height, a craft or desk area, that works well with a bar stool.
Similar to the low Shelf, this will work beautifully in a pair with it's specified table top (plans to follow).
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
**Saw – Table Saw or circular saw, unless your local blue or orange will make your cuts for you, and if they end up being accurate and exact.
**Choose Plywood for staining, MDF for painting and Melamine if you prefer a unit that is white (no painting required and very durable).
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Fasten your Unit Top Frame to the Top: Use 1 1/4″ Screws or Nails and fasten from underneath.
Attach The Stops to the Units: Use 1 1/4″ screws or finish nails and attach in the locations indicated below at 2 1/4″ in from the front and side for each one. This will keep your table top from shimmy shaking right off your shelves. If you gently nail these to your shelf tops, you won't damage your units so that if you want to use them with a different top or in a different arrangement later you can.
** Be sure your stops fit properly inside your Top Frame before you connect them to the Shelf Tops so that if you need to adjust you can.
Set the Top on the Stops and Unit Tops.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
I love the versatility of this collection and that you can essentially choose which pieces fit your needs and build! Below you see the Low Shelf with a 3 Drawer unit and the Table Top
Of course it's quite a beauty on it's own too! Of course how you arrange them is entirely up to you! perhaps 2 of these with a table top between them, or one dividing up a work space for two people…any way you slice it it's pretty fabulous
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Box: use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue
Attach the Shelf in place: Begin with the long back shelf first. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Fasten the Smaller Front Shelf in place: use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Fasten the Top to the Box: Use 2″ Finish Nails and glue or Wood Screws, just be sure to countersink them.
Attach the Unit Base: use 1 1/4″ Screws to attach the frame pieces to each other and then to attach the connectors to the unit
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.