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Plans
I am so excited to bring you our second reader submitted, Full set of Furniture Plans! This project was brought to us by Loren, who does such beautiful work! You guys are just going to love this plan, I know it! How about a stylish hamper option…I know virtually unheard of! Not anymore…
Create 2 fabric drop in bins out of something washable, and perhaps even with a drawstring, and you will be in laundry doing bliss! How often does that even happen? Never, in my house anyway.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Jig Saw, Table Saw – to create notches in the shelves.
- Miter Saw – or either of the 2 above tools will also work for cutting at an angle.
Lumber
- 1 – 1×12 at 6’
- 7 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6'
Materials
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- ** 3″ Wood Screws – needed if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×12 at 26” Shelf and Top
- 6 – 1×2 at 39 1/2″ Legs
- 17 – 1×2 at 9 3/4” Rails
- 12 – 1×2 at 16” Diagonal Rails (will end up being 15 1/4” or so after you miter, cut to exact measurements for your specific project)
- 1 – 1×2 at 26” Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Leg Units: Space the Rails accordingly and use your pocket hole system to secure, set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the rails to the front and back legs using your 2” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink. The Rails for the outside legs will sit flush with the outside of the leg for the top 2 rails, and the rails for the center leg will be centered. The lower rails will sit horizontally and will be placed 2” from ground level.
Step 2
Build your Bottom: notch out 6 rectangles to allow for the legs to rest flush with the front of the shelf. These will sit 1” in from the sides of each shelf, and will be 3/4” x 1 1/2” allowing for the true dimension of a 1×2 board. Do this carefully and use a jig saw or table saw for this step. Once you have each section notched out, you will set the shelves on the existing rails and fasten in place using glue and 2” screws.
Step 3
Fasten the remaining Rails in Place: use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place, at the same level as the existing rails. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to secure the rails by screwing through the legs using 3” screws and glue, and this isn’t my recommended solution here, but is possible if necessary.
Step 4
Fasten your diagonal Rails in Place: use 2” screws and glue to fasten them in place or a pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. The diagonal rails will all be cut at a 45 degree angle and should be sized according to exact measurement (as in measure and mark your precise length required). My plans suggest you will come in right around 15 1/4” at the longest point on the diagonal rails.
Step 5
Fasten the Top in place: Secure the 1×2 in place by fastening it to the Back Legs and Rails leaving a 3/4” Overhang on the back side. Your top will attach to this 1×2 using a hinging system of your choice.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
Making the connection between this stunning series of visual images and your home decor can be done with the use of accessories and products as shown below. You can click on any of the links listed under the Sourcebook tab to take you to the place of purchase. Some of these products are old, some new, and some are perfectly handmade.
Pantone Color Approximations:
580 C 351 C 374 C 392 C 451 C
I am absolutely smitten with this color combination, it's both captivating and calming, with a sophisticated sensibility.
There is often a direct influence from fashion on home decor. Get inspired by the clothing you love, and translate it into your interior design…play it forward. The items below reflect not only the colors from the images above, but a bit of the feeling, style, and textures as well.
Sources
Product Sources: Coasters, Bowls, Pillow, Kitchen Towel, Napkin Rings, Bowl, Clothespins, Glasses, Chandelier, Goblet, Slipper Chair, Salad Spinner, Coasters, Pots and Pans, Crochet Dishcloths, Blender, Hand, Lamps, Painting, Umbrella, Towels, Grain Sack Art, Water Bottle, Keep Calm Print, Recycle Coasters, Canisters, Kindle Cover
Plans
For all you gardener's out there, here is a little treat for you…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
Lumber
- 2 – 4×4 – 6'
- 1 – 4×4 at 8'
- 1 – 1×6 at 6'
- 1 – 2×6 at 6'
- 1 – 2×10 at 6'
- 2 – 2×8 at 6'
- 4 – 1×3 at 8' (3 of these will cover the front/back/shelf aprons and the spacers, the other will cover the side aprons)
- 2 – 1×3 at 10' (this will cover the table supports)
- 6 – 2×4 at 6'
Materials
- 3″ Screws – use Galvanized or Stainless for outdoor use
- 2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Finishing Supplies or Sealant for outdoor use.
Cut List
- 2 – 4×4 at 37″ (Front Legs)
- 2 – 4×4 at 59″ (Back Legs)
- 10 – 1×3 at 1 3/4″ (Spacers)
- 4 – 1×3 at 16 3/4″ (Side Aprons)
- 10 – 1×3 at 20 3/4″ (Table Supports)
- 5 – 1×3 at 45″ (Front/Back/Shelf Aprons)
- 2 – 2×8 at 52″ (Top Table Tops)
- 1 – 2×10 at 52″ (Top Table Tops)
- 1 – 1×6 at 45″ (Shelf Back)
- 1 – 2×6 at45″ (Shelf)
- 4 – 2×4 at 52″ (Inside Bottom Tops)
- 2 – 2×4 at 45″ (Outside Bottom Tops)
Instructions
If you are making this for outdoor use, purchase wood that holds up well to weather and moisture. This might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak , but I would ask your local lumber supply for appropriate wood species for your area and climate. You should Finish and Seal all boards prior to assembling if this is for outdoor use. This will keep it water tight and protected.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach Spacers to the legs: B to A (Red to Leg). Each leg will have 2 spacers (the back legs will each have 3, but we will attach the top 2 for the shelf later). These will be fastened flush with the inside of the leg and placed 1 1/2″ from the top of the leg for the shorter front legs. They will be placed 5″ from the bottom of the legs on all 4 and will be placed 33″ from the bottom on the back 2 taller legs. Use glue and 2″ Screws.
Place 1 1/2″ from the top of the Front Legs.
Place 33″ from the bottom of the Back 2 Legs.
Place 5″ from the bottom on all 4 legs.
Step 2
Build the Frame (2): Attach the Table Supports to the Front and Back Aprons. E to F (Blue to Red) Use 2″ Screws and Glue.
Space as shown below.
Step 3
Attach Frame to Legs: The Frame will attach flush with the bottom and top of the spacers and you will have a 1″ setback on from the outside front and back edge to the frame. Use 2″ Screws and Glue.
Step 4
Attach the Side Aprons to the Spacers: D to C, use 2″ Screws and glue.
Step 5
Attach Spacers and Shelf Apron to the upper Back Legs: C to B. Spacers will be flush with the back of the back legs and the top of the Spacer will be 4″ from the top of the back legs. Use 2″ Screws and Glue. Attach the Shelf Apron to the Spacers: F to C, use 2″ Screws and Glue. The Apron should be flush with the top and bottom of the spacer and will be setback from the front of the legs by 1″.
Attach the Shelf Back to the Spacers: I to C, place the Shelf Back flush with the Top of the Legs, use 2″ Screws and Glue. This will leave a 1″ space between the bottom of the shelf back and the bottom of the spacers. You can cover this with a 1×1 piece of trim if you like, but this will keep you from having to rip a 1×8 down to a 1×7 and just allows you to use a 1×6 and deal with a small gap.
Step 7
Attach the Shelf to the Spacer, the Apron, and the Shelf Back: J to I, C, and F, use 2″ Screws and glue.
Step 8
Form the Top Table Top: This will be comprised of 2 – 2×8 and 1 – 2×10. You will carve out a 3 1/2″ square out of the 4 corners (this will be only carved out of the 2×8's since the 2×10 is the center board and only out of 2 of the 4 corners of the 2×8) as shown below.
Step 9
Attach the Top Table Top to the Frame: Use 3″ Screws and Glue.
Step 10
Form the Bottom Table Top: This will be comprised of 6 – 2×4's, the outside 2 will be 7" shorter than the others. Leave about a 1/2" Gap Between each board to allow for drainage (both water and soil).
Step 11
Attach to the Bottom Frame: using 3″ Screws and Glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I'm really excited about these plans because I know you will all love them and love a good Bistro Table and Chairs. Oh and did I mention, super easy to build? Yep, it's true!
Inspired by the Big Sur line of furniture at C&B, this table is of my own design and not in any way affiliated with the specialty retailer.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
Lumber
- 2 – 4×4 at 6'
- 1 – 1×3 at 8'
- 1 – 2×8 at 6' ( you will have quite a bit of this left over, so ask about scraps before purchasing or plan on building another piece in the Coastal collection)
Materials
- 2″ Finish Nails – optional and you can use screws to attach top if you prefer.
- 2″ Screws – Choose Galvanized or Stainless Screws if for Outdoor Use.
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 4×4 at 30″ (Legs)
- 4 – 1×3 at 1 3/4″ (Spacers)
- 4 – 1×3 at 7 1/2″ (Frame & Side Aprons)
- 3 – 1×3 at 11″ (Side Supports & Center Support)
- 2 – 2×8 at 14 1/2″ (Stool Tops)
Instructions
**If you are making this for outdoor use, purchase wood that holds up well to weather and moisture. This might include Cedar,
Redwood, and Teak , but I would ask your local lumber supply for appropriate wood species for your area and climate. You should Finish and Seal all boards prior to assembling if this is for outdoor use. This will keep it water tight and protected. Also try and use Galvanized or Stainless Screws whenever possible for outdoor use.
**If your climate zone dictates that you have space between boards on the top to allow for water drainage (or you simply like the look of that), you will place 1/4″ Gap between the Stool Top Boards and increase the Stool Support and Side Apron lengths by 1/4″ to allow for water drainage and accommodate the gaps.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Spacers to the Legs using 2″ Screws.
Step 2
Build the Frame: Use 2″ Screws.
Step 3
Attach the Frame to the Legs: Using 2″ Screws, align the top of the frame with the top of the Spacers (1 3/4″ from the top of the legs). Leave a 1″ space on either side of the frame on the legs without spacers.
Step 4
Attach the Aprons to the Spacers: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 5
Carve out a 3 1/2″ Square in the 4 corners as seen in the image below. Each Board will have 2 cut corners.
Attach the Table Tops to the Frame: Use 2″ Finish Nails or Screws and Wood Glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I think this table would be perfect outside with an umbrella. Don't you? This table is Bistro height or Bar Height and I have provided plans for the accompanying bar stools as well.
Inspired by the Big Sur line of furniture at Crate & Barrel, this table is of my own design and not in any way affiliated with the specialty retailer.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Saw
- Drill
- 2″Hole Saw Drill bit OR a Spade Drill Bit (I recommend asking a sales associate which they carry and recommend, my experience with Spade Bits is that they give you a rough hole and you need to sand it well after drilling, a hole saw bit gives you a cleaner hole but they don't always bore deeply)
Lumber
- 2 – 4×4 at 8'
- 2 – 1×3 at 8'
- 1 – 1×3 at 10'
- 1 – 2×12 at 10'
Materials
- 2″ Finish Nails – optional for attaching table top and can use screws if needed.
- 2″ Screws – Choose Galvanized or Stainless Screws if for Outdoor Use.
**2″Hole Saw Drill bit OR a Spade Drill Bit (I recommend asking a sales associate which they carry and recommend, my experience with Spade Bits is that they give you a rough hole and you need to sand it well after drilling, a hole saw bit gives you a cleaner hole but they don't always bore deeply)
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 4×4 at 42″ (Legs)
- 4 – 1×3 at 1 3/4″ (Spacers)
- 6 – 1×3 at 30 1/4″ (Frame and Slats, you can eliminate one of these if this item is for indoor you for you)
- 2 – 1×3 at 26 3/4″ (Frame)
- 2 – 1×3 at 26 3/4″ (Apron)
- 3 – 2×12 at 33 1/4″ (Table Tops)
Instructions
**If you are making this for outdoor use, purchase wood that holds up well to weather and moisture. This might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak , but I would ask your local lumber supply for appropriate wood species for your area and climate. You should Finish and Seal all boards prior to assembling if this is for outdoor use.
This will keep it water tight and protected. Also try and use Galvanized or Stainless Screws whenever possible for outdoor use.
**If your climate zone dictates that you have space between boards on the top to allow for water drainage (or you simply like the look of that), you will place 1/4″ Gap between the Table Top Boards and increase the Stool Support and Side Apron lengths by 1/2″ to allow for water drainage and accommodate the gaps.
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Attach the Spacers to the Legs using 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 2
Build the Frame: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 2″ space between the 2 center slats to allow for the umbrella if this is for outdoor use, the other slats can just be placed in the center of the remaining space at approximately 5″. If this is for indoor use you can eliminate one slat and place the remaining center slat directly in the middle of the frame.
Step 3
Attach the Frame to the Legs: Using 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, align the top of the frame with the top of the Spacers (1 1/2″ from the top of the legs). Leave a 1″ space on either side of the frame on the legs without Spacers.
Step 4
Attach the Aprons to the Spacers: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 5
Carve out a 3 1/2″ Square in the 4 corners as seem in the image below. Only 2 of your boards will have cutouts and only on 2 of their corners.
Attach the Table Tops to the Frame: Use 2″ Screws or Finish Nails and Wood Glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
The perfect addition to an awkward corner in your home, or on either end of the 72 Inch Sawhorse Shelves (plans for that can be found here). The inspiration piece from Ballard Designs (allegedly) will cost almost $200 with tax, while this fine friend here will cost you around $30 give or take, (will vary by region) to make!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Miter Saw – Can also use Miter Box, Jig Saw or Circular Saw, but you will need to make angled cuts for this project and will need to have a saw on hand.
- Jig Saw – you might also use a sander to round the leg tops and shelves, but it might be faster to carve them.
- Kreg Jig – there are connections that can't be made as easily without this tool.
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 6'
- 2 – 1×3 at 8'
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- **1 – 1×12 at 6’ this can be substituted for plywood or MDF if you prefer, and if you want to round your shelves, you will need to choose a 2’x4’ strip of ply or MDF instead of the 1×12
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws (PHS).
- 2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1- 1×3 at 72″ Back Leg
- 1- 1×2 at 72″ Back Leg
- 2 – 1×3 at 74 1/2” Front Legs (your actual cut length will be closer to 73 5/8” once you miter, this will give you a bit of room for error, though not much so be careful)
- 2 – 1×3 at 2″ Center Blocks
- 2 – 1×2 at 11 1/4” Rails
Straight Cut Shelves Using 1×12:
- 1 – 1×12 at 4 1/2″ x 9” Top Shelf
- 1 – 1×12 at 6 1/8″ x 12 3/16” 2nd Shelf
- 1 – 1×12 at 7 11/16″ x 15 3/8” 3rd Shelf
- 1 – 1×12 at 9 15/16″ x 18 5/8” 4th Shelf
- 1 – 1×12 at 10 15/16″ x 21 13/16” 5th Shelf
Rounded Shelves Using Ply or MDF:
- 1 – 3/4” Stock at 5 3/8″ x 10 7/8” Top Shelf
- 1 – 3/4” Stock at 7 1/2″ x 15 1/16” 2nd Shelf
- 1 – 3/4” Stock at 9 3/8″ x 18 3/4” 3rd Shelf
- 1 – 3/4” Stock at 10 15/16″ x 21 15/16” 4th Shelf
- 1 – 3/4” Stock at 12 13/16″ x 25 5/8” 5th Shelf
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Leg Bases: The Back Leg will stand upright at 90 degrees from the ground. The Center block will need to be cut at a right angle on one side and an 80 degree angle on the other side, with a top measurement of 3/8” and a bottom measurement of 13/16”, so if you prefer to use something other than a miter saw to make this piece, you can always create a 90 degree angle on one side and measure out 3/8” from the top and 13/16” from the bottom of the L Shape and cut your piece in that manner. The Front Legs will be a final cut length of 73 5/8” with the ends mitered at 80 degrees. Join the 2 legs and center block together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Your Second Leg Base will be constructed precisely the same way only you will replace the vertical 90 degree leg will be a 1×2 rather than a 1×3. The center block and front leg of the leg base will be constructed of 1×3’s precisely as shown below. Only the back leg of the second leg base will change widths.
Step 2
Once your pieces are attached, create an arc with a radius of 2 1/2” and carve along this arc on the outside of each leg base. You might also use a sander to create this shape it will just take you a bit longer. Below the image shows how the arcs for each leg base need to line up. It doesn’t need to be perfect, but you want it to look continuous.
Step 3
Attach the Leg Bases using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. You may also use your countersink bit and 2” screws and glue.
Step 4
Fasten the Rails in place. You will have one on each side (leg base side) cut at an 80 degree angle (or you can mark out 11” and 11 1/4” and draw a line between the 2 marks and cut. Attach the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 5
Cut and Fasten the Shelves in place. I have chosen to give you the option of using 1×12 pieces or plywood/MDF. For straight cut shelves you will use 1×12 pieces at the measurements below. Fasten in place using 2” Screws and glue.
For rounded Shelves you will use plywood or MDF and cut to the dimensions shown and round out the front using a jig saw or sander (and a lot of patience).
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
The artist who transformed this space from an old schoolhouse from the late 1800’s, has chosen and entirely different path for her home’s design than you might typically find in such a space. A showcase and celebration of art and collected pieces, this home is truly made to suit the items it contains and the people who live here, rather than the other way around. I for one, find this refreshing and fabulous. This is a space that speaks to the beauty found in so many art forms, even raw building materials and unfinished plasterboard. Handmade and with love, both new and old remain, a mix I highly value and enjoy together. Gorgeous natural materials, handwritten notes, and beautiful vignettes all displayed and arranged with the utmost care.
Design / Shopping
While I adore baby and kiddo items and décor, when it comes to style I prefer to treat children’s rooms with the same respect and care I would an adult living space. This artist presents just such an opportunity to do so, by creating images that not only appeal to my adult (though not always) mind, and colors that please…but with subject matter that is prime for our petite loves. Animals, Birds, Sea Creatures and of course a boy in masked attire, slightly reminiscent of Where The Wild Things Are. Spending that extra bit of time on discovering pieces that will grow with your kiddos as they mature out of their nurseries and into the rooms, is well worth the energy with pieces like these. This is precisely the type of art that would inspire the inner story teller in my own monster mash boy.
DIY / Home / Shopping / Studio
You know you are starting to crave spring and that you are feeling a bit stir crazy when the sudden urge to drive 30 miles to the nearest IKEA for Kitchen Storage becomes an obsession that you can’t let go of! Or when you suddenly decide that NOTHING is allowed to live on the kitchen counter anymore because everything that lives there is bugging you. Not to mention it’s all making you that much less likely to clean the counters because it requires that you move those things in order to clean the counters well. Sigh..enter 2 hours fabulous hours at the happiest place on earth…IKEA, sweet, sweet IKEA. It is an organizational freak’s dream come true, am I right? Although, I after yet another grueling experience with Monster Mash, in an overcrowded and dizzyingly large warehouse store, I once again had to fly through the lower level (where most of the goodness that is IKEA happens to live) and set off from the store with only a few items in tow. Boo to cranky toddlers who don’t let their crazy mommy’s enjoy warehouse shopping, do you hear me friends…Boo to the Hoo. But anyhoo, I digress… So I saw this image one day while surfing around online, and I must confess this image is the spark that lit a kitchen storage fire under my tush (spelling? no clue)! Isn’t it fab? And so it got me thinking…wouldn’t it be amazing to get the stuff on my counters up and off and into wire storage baskets basically making the “no counter living” rule a possibility and cleaning that much more of an option…but most importantly allowing everyday kitchen items to look pretty as though they are on display! Yahoo, count me in!
And so, off to IKEA we drove, monster mash in tow (mistake number 1). It just so happens that Ikea has a large selection of incredible storage and organizational product lines that are similar to the inspiration photo, and I was planning on making out like bandit and majorly on the cheap, since their prices for this sort of stuff are incredible! No really…Incredible. Enter Bygel..one of IKEA’s hanging kitchen storage lines (they have another that I think starts with an A, but I can’t recall the exact name of it) with interchangeable pieces and items that suit most if not all of your kitchen storage needs..not to mention any of your other storage needs, in other rooms of your house..think outside the box here, I am sure you won’t regret it!
This bad boy cost a whopping $1.99. Yep, under $2 folks, can you believe it? This is a pretty heavy duty seeming industrial chic kind of towel bar. Perfect for my needs and the look I am going for here. There is no hardware included or putting together that needs to occur, nope..simply get some drywall screws, the 2” variety should more than do the trick, and hang these babies up.
Ok, since you have all been so sweet to me lately (you know who you are…and I heart you) I will share my easy hanging in a straight line of perfection technique. Yes that’s actually what it’s called, emkay? check it…
That’s right, so simple, blue painter’s tape! Most of the time you will find that your wall/ceiling line is not even or level..and in this case perhaps your cabinetry or backsplash line. This is entirely common, especially in older homes where you may have both uneven ceiling and windows and floor lines. eek..what’s a person to do? How do you even go about hanging something when you can’t hang something level for fear it will conflict drastically with your not so level line of windows, ceilings, floors etc.? It’s very simple. You choose the edge you need to match for the least amount of visual conflict, and in my case here, this happens to be my cabinetry since I will be placing these rods nearest to the bottom of my cabinets rather than the backsplash. This makes my under cabinet lighting a good point of reference. I pulled off a strip of tape that is at least a bit longer than my rod length and lined up a section with the bottom of my florescent light box. Then keeping my line of tape straight I simply pressed it down for the length of the strip. You can tell if you are crooked by evaluating any blips or bubbles along your tape strip. If you aren’t perfectly smooth, you are also not likely to be perfectly straight…but you can easily adjust (since the darn tape barely sticks to the wall anyhow) and get yourself straightened out in a jiff! If you are needing to hang something more than one tape strip in height from something, simply use the edge of your tape strip as your next line of reference and continue on stacking your strips until you reach the appropriate distance or height for hanging your piece! Easy peasy, no? Safety Tip Requirement: If you are working near electrical outlets or lines…be sure to shut your power down before you start drilling screws into your wall. Trust me, a zap like that isn’t worth the couple of seconds it will take you to walk outside or into your garage and shut the breakers down. If you are unsure as to how to go about this…I recommend to you, those fabulous Interwebs, after all if you are reading this, you are likely able to throw up a question search about turning power off in Google or Bing before continuing on in this televised programming. Be sure you use drywall screws to install so you are able to place things in your storage without as much risk of the screws working their way back out of your wall and crashing to the ground (or counter). Once you have your tape strip in place, decide where that line will fall on your item to be installed. For me, this was going to be the halfway point of my rod, in other words, the center of the rod should fall right on the bottom edge of the tape strip.
As you can see above, I used a crayon to make a mark in the center of the top opening since that gives me adequate visibility of where to place the screw without needing to mark up my wall, always a bonus…
When I am not pre-drilling for a screw, I will typically place the screw in the desired location and inside the rod bracket hole and give it a little tap with a hammer. Another little trick of mine when hanging things. I don’t hit it hard enough to go in beyond the first wrung of the spiral because you will be ruining the screws ability to carve it’s hold into the wall. So, just a tiny little tap so that it stays put a bit better while you are tying to drill it in!
Once you have the top screws in place on both sides, simply tear the tape away and get to fastening the bottom screws. No marks, no crooked hanging rods…just perfection!
This is the basket component for the Bygel collection, and perfect for my needs, also coming in at the very low cost of $1.99! This just needs to be unpackaged and hung on the rod. No installation here, just hang and done!
This even looks fabulous empty, does it not? Perhaps this is my obsessive mindset, envisioning all of the Storage Goodness soon to take place!
Look at that..salt and pepper up and off the counter! Plenty of room underneath this unit to function as needed when cooking and all of these typically messy things (pepper grinder) are now in this washable, removable bottomed basket. Yahhhhooooooo.
Plans
We are well underway with out Hudson Collection! This console table is perhaps one of my faves, though I am fairly certain I constantly think this…this piece was provided for us by our Fab Friend Loren, who has so graciously donated a number of pieces in this collection, that I will be providing full plans for this week! I hope you enjoy them as much as I do!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
Lumber
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 8 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – Base Molding of your Design choice at 8’
- 1 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood
- 1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood
Materials
- **3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” finish nails
- 2” Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×2 at 30 1/2” Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 43 1/2” Front/Back Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 11 1/4” Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 12 1/2” Center Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 48” Top Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 10 1/4” Top Frame Rails
- 4 – 1×3 at 11” Shelf Frame Rails
- 8 – 1×2 at 43 1/2” Shelf Frames
- 6 – 1×2 at 11” Shelf Frame Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 6” Drawer Dividers
- 6 – 1×2 at 13 7/8” Drawer Trim
- 6 – 1×2 at 5 15/16” Drawer Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 16” Top Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 49 1/2” Top Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 28” Side Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 11 1/4” Side Trim
- 6 – 1×6 at 12 1/2” Drawer Sides
- 3 – 1×6 at 12 3/8” Drawer Backs
- 3 – 1×6 at 13 7/8” Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 3/4” ply at 43 1/2” x 11” Shelves
- 2 – 3/4” ply at 28” x 11 1/4” Sides
- 3 – 3/4” ply at 12 3/8” x 11 3/4” Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 3/4” ply at 48” x 15 1/4” Top
- 1 – 1/4” ply at 43 1/2” x 29” Back
- 1 – Base Molding at 48”
- 2 – Base Molding at 15”
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Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Base: Secure the Aprons using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Side and Front Apron will sit flush with the front and outside edges of the legs, while the Back Apron will sit 1/4” in from the back edge of the back legs to allow for the Back of the unit later. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Aprons to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.
Step 2
Build the Shelf Frames: the 2 shelves on the bottom (which are actually shown at the top of the image below, for the purpose of showing how to assemble them) will be the same, while the upper two (shown at the bottom) will be different from them and each other. For the Bottom Shelves you will be attaching 1×2 rails to the front and back using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The upper shelves will be built as shown below with the middle upper shelf frame having 1×3’s in the center and 1×2 rails on the outsides while the upper most frame (again shown on the bottom) will be built of 1×2’s only. Connect the Rails to the Frame using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the shelves and rails in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue.
Step 3
Fasten the Shelf Frames in place. Secure using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue and fasten the front and back shelf frame pieces to the Legs. If you aren't using a pocket hole system you will secure using 3” screws and glue, be sure to countersink. The Shelf Frames will also sit 1/4” in from the Backside just as above, to allow for the Back in a later step.
Step 4
Fasten the Sides and the Drawer Dividers in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. Fasten the Drawer Dividers together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to secure together and to the existing frame already in place. Fasten the Side Panels in place and to the existing Frames, using 2” Finish Nails and glue.
Step 5
Fasten the Top Frame and Back in Place. Using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, build the Top Frame and then fasten in place using your 2” Finish Nails and Glue or 1 1/4” screws from underneath the existing frame. Tack on your Back Panel after you cut a half circle out for plugs, use glue and 1 1/4” finish nails to fasten. You can also use 3” Screws and glue to build the Top Frame, just be sure to countersink.
Build the Drawers. The bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. The Front Trim will sit a bit higher than the drawer front, on the top side of the drawer fascia. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front and back and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Step 7
Build and Attach the Top. The top will sit on the Top Frame and will be fastened in place using 2” finish nails and glue. Trim out the front and the sides of the top, using 1×2’s mitered in the corners for the most professional appearance. Fasten the trim for the sides in place. Miter the corners and attach using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans / Uncat
Our girl Loren is on a role…this is her 3rd project with us, and I’m so excited she has allowed me to post her plans because its giving all of you more amazing options for building than I can provide all by my lonesome, and it’s giving me a chance to work on my site (so much faster now and also looking awfully fabulous if I do say so myself!) and my own bed build, which has of course hit every road block known to man!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
Lumber
- 1 – 1×10 at 8’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6'
Materials
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 3 – 1×10 at 10 3/4″ Upper Shelves
- 1 – 1×10 at 9 1/4″ Top Shelf
- 1 – 1×10 at 18 1/2″ Center Shelf
- 1 – 1×10 at 27 3/4″ Lower Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 29 1/2″ Back Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 43″ Front Legs (will be 41 3/4″ after mitering)
- 7 – 1×2 at 9 1/4” Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 7″ Shelf Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 16 1/4″ Shelf Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 25″ Shelf Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 10″ Center and Lower Shelf Supports (will be 9 1/4″ after mitering)
- 2 – 1×2 at 8 1/2″ Top Shelf Supports (will be 7 3/4″ after mitering)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Base: Cut, Miter, and Space the Legs as shown in the image below and use your pocket hole system to secure, set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the rail and the front legs to the back legs using your 2” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink. The Rail will sit flush with the back edge of the back legs.
Step 2
Build the Shelf Frames: These will essentially be a box with the Sides set in about an inch outside edges of each shelf's front and back rails. The exact distance each side is set in isn’t that important so long as you remain near the 1” mark and they are all relatively the same for aesthetic reasons. Fasten the frame together and to the Legs and using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You can also use 2” screws and glue to fasten the pieces of each frame together and then to the Legs if you aren’t using a pocket hole system.
Step 3
Fasten the Shelves and the shelf supports in place: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the supports in place once you have cut and mitered them. You can use your pocket hole system to fasten the shelves in place or 2” screws and glue, just be sure to countersink and pre-drill.
Step 4
Fasten your remaining Shelves in place: use 2” screws and glue to fasten them in place or a pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Shopping
Sourced: Wood Grain Key Ring, Wood Slat Chair, IPad Stand, Tissue Holder, Mirror, IPhone Cover, M is for Magazine Holder, Wooden Radio, Bent Nail Bottle Opener, Take it Off Coat Rack, Pencil Sharpener Desk Organizer, DS Squared Cologne, Mahogany Wreath, Wooden Flashlight, Two Branch Ceramic, Kraft Speakers, France Cutting Board, Wood Grain Clock
