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Design
Creating the Nursery of your Dreams…on a budget.
Bambino on the way and you haven’t even started on the nursery? Not to worry, it’s easier than you think! When you are starting from square one and don’t have a clue where you want to end up…take a deep breath and head to the fabric store to start collecting some samples (just samples, don’t get crazy now..)!
Designing your child’s room using fabric as the basis for your inspiration, is a wonderful way to arrive at the look you love without spending a fortune on baby gear. With a very basic understanding of sewing and access to the internet, you can find step-by-step tutorials for creating and making almost everything your child will need in his or her room, aside from their crib. By heading in a handmade direction for your decor, you have the ability to choose the materials your items are made with.
Choosing a Color Scheme:
If neutral is your tendency you are in luck, the new neutral palette is anything but bland…
There is good news on the neutral color scheme front, with the addition of some fabulous colors, to what has traditionally been a very lonely pale yellow and minty green territory. If you are planning on “not planning” for the sex of your expected bundle of joy, you can still enjoy decorating for your new arrival, in a manner fit for a king or queen, even if you aren’t sure which…The staple colors in any neutral color scheme include greens and yellows as they always have, however, the array of shades being used that fall within that area of the color chart have expanded exponentially.
Take a look at a few of the shades of green that are now prominent at every turn for both boys and girls. Every nursery will benefit from one or two of these notoriously calming and pleasing hues…The new array of greens includes everything from deeper Olive tones, to Chartreuse, even dark teal, and the ever trusty sage and minty greens.
New Neutral Color Palette:
The exciting colors that we are seeing partnered with greens, and quickly becoming staples in the neutral and non-gender specific themes, include:
An array of oranges, both pale and vibrant
Reds, Turquoise, light and dark hues Timeless black and white with Sophisticated grays. With the retro vibe of current fabric options and the large prints available in organic and eco-friendly options, putting together a room for your little one becomes a play on pattern and a creative mix of textural fabric choices. A playful combination of fabric for use in bedding, plush toys, window treatments, decorative accessories and even art allow the Mindful Mama to understand exactly what the items in her child’s room are made from and with. With the right choice in durability and ‘washability’ your room decor will be lasting and easily cleaned, should the need arise.
When you are ready to begin creating your space, browsing through fabric samples online, and creating fabric arrangements or strolling through the fabric store and collecting swatches, will help you visualize how different colors and patterns will mix with each other. This process will help you find color combinations you wouldn’t otherwise choose, and allow you to edit thoughtfully when you begin to make decisions. I suggest collecting and saving to disk any and every fabric that catches your eye, from there you can begin to see how they play off of one another, and start to allocate certain fabric patterns to certain items in the room, based on how much of a particular fabric you would like to be prominent.
Below are several fabric arrangements I have put together, using the New Neutral Color Palette outlined above, as the foundation for the color scheme.
An Exciting Gender Neutral Fabric Mix
This mix uses bold pops of color, large prints and eye catching patterns:
A Calming and Soothing Gender Neutral Mix
This mix uses fabrics with pleasant patterns that don’t overstimulate and colors that provide a sense of well being and calm:
A Feminine Take on the Gender Neutral Color Palette
This color story uses many of the same fabrics from our gender neutral arrangement, yet includes a few decidedly pink and botanical prints to the mix:
A Girly yet Sophisticated Color Scheme
This mix of fabrics is for those who want to indulge in princess wishes and pinkish dreams, while keeping it grounded with grays:
A Warmer Mix of Complimentary Colors, with a girlish persuasion:
This mix is has a bohemian feel using warm complimentary colors and retro botanical patterns:
A Particularly Boyish Blend
This mix still builds on our foundation of neutrals yet takes a decidedly masculine turn with darker colors, more contrast, and boyish patterns:
Now that your mind is open and you are beginning to play around with pattern mixing and colors, we will move on to Part 2 and begin making some decisions…eek! Stay tuned…
Design
There is something about a weathered drifted coloring for wood that feels soft and soothing to me. The two spaces shown below are not related (as far as I know), but there is something of a similar quality between the two. I adore the colors, the calmness they exude, the crispness of the white and the grayed weathered wood tones…
Does something about these spaces appeal to you? I would love to know your thoughts…
I hope to continue our study of space for the coming new year. I wonder if our surroundings, when the formula seems spot on, appeal to most of us, or if design is enjoyed by people given their personal experiences and taste preferences and if it's different for each and every one of us.
Share your thoughts and ideas in the comment section below, we all love to chat about design and all things beautiful, so tell us…do you find these beautiful…terrible? impractical? dreamy? ideal?
Plans
I love a simple build with a bit of a stylish twist. It's a little bit modern and a bit worldly, too. Get out your jig saws folks, and get ready for some curve carving! This plan is so simple to build, it only requires a bit of tracing and shaping, seriously…that's all! Each side can be make precisely the same way. Make one, then use it as a template for the other 3 sides and you are virtually finished! Easy Peasy…
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Jig Saw
- Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
- Nail Gun – optional and would replace the Kreg Jig for attaching the sides and top.
Lumber
- 1 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
- 2″ Wood screws – if not using a pocket hole system
- 2″ Finish nails – you can also use pocket hole screws or wood screws, just be sure to countersink.
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 20″x18″ Sides
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 20″x20″ Top
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut all 4 Side Panels to Size. The turning your panels so the 18″ side is vertical, carve an approximate shape as indicated below. You can draw out your shape, use your jig saw to carve it, and then lay it onto the other panels and use it as a template for tracing out the pattern on the remaining 3 panels.
Step 2
Decrease the width of 2 of your panels. Your shape will already be cut from the previous step, so all you are doing now is marking off a line 3/4″ in from the outside edges, as indicated in the salmon color below. You will then remove this strip on these 2 panels (only 2 of the 4, not all 4).
Step 3
Attach your Sides and the Top. Use your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4″ Stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fassten together. Place your pocket holes as shown below on the shorter of the sides so they will fasten into the longer (wider) sides. You can place pocket holes all around the top edges of the sides so that you might fasten the top to the sides without your screws being seen. If you aren't using a Pocket Hole System, use 2″ screws and glue, be sure to countersink for the most professional appearance. Fasten the top using Finish Nails and Glue if possible otherwise you can also use screws and countersink.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
I thought we might switch gears for just a bit while I am working on some other very exciting and pretty big projects! I think this storage caddy would be fabulous in a bathroom, on a desk, in the kitchen…and the list goes on! The original is build from Teak, but if that is an expensive choice, an alternative might be cedar or redwood for high water areas or perhaps give your finished product a wax coating to seal it and protect it from water damage.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
Tape Measure
Drill
Jig Saw
Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
Lumber
- 1 – 2×2 at 6'
- 1 – 1×4 at 6'
- 1 – 1×2 at 6'
- 1/4 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Wood Screws
- 2 ” Wood screws
- 2″ Finish Nails (optional and can use screws instead)
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 32″ Legs
- 2 – 1×4 at 9 3/4″ Sides of Bottom Shelf
- 2 – 1×4 at 8″ Front and Back Bottom Shelf
- 4 – 1×2 at 9 3/4″ Sides of Upper Shelves
- 4 – 1×2 at 8″ Front and Back of Upper Shelves
- 3 – 1/2″ Ply at 9 3/4″ x6 1/2″ Bottoms
Instructions
Tack on the front of each shelf using 1 1/4″ Screws or 2″ Finish Nails and glue. If using screws be sure to countersink.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut all 3 Bottom Panels to Size, along with the legs and shelf sides. Fasten the Shelf Sides to the Bottoms using 1 1/4″ Wood Screws and glue. Then fasten each Shelf to the Legs using 2″ Screws.
Step 2
Tack on the front of each shelf using 1 1/4″ Screws or 2″ Finish Nails and glue. If using screws be sure to countersink.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
The most recent issue of Lonny Mag launched last weekend, and it's my personal opinion that this spread seen below on masculine design, hits it out of the park! Complete with a How To Guide for Guy Friendly Decorating, I am absolutely smitten with the clean lines and bold art used throughout the space. Moody colors and natural textural and weathered elements paired with timeless classic pieces ensure this home will appeal to the feminine senses as well! It's a win win on the He Said She Said Scene…
Plans
This is plan is for building the first part of this Small Media and Gaming Console inspired by Potterybarn's (allegedly) Hudson Collection and the Smart Design will indeed be a smart build for any of you who decide to tackle this project! This will have doors and a pull out drawer with shelving insert that will be covered tomorrow. For a quick peak at what is to come, you might consider taking a peak at the Original found on the Potterybarn website (allegedly).
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Saw
- Miter Saw – optional – you will need to cut the legs at an angle and miter the cove molding, but you can use a circular saw or jig saw for the legs and a jig saw, coping saw, miter box etc for the cove molding
- Kreg Jig – optional but not as easy without and will shrink the interior space available
- Pneumatic Nailer – optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the top or screws and a countersink bit if this is difficult
Lumber
- 2 – 2×3 at 6'
- 1 – 2×2 at 6'
- 1 – 1×2 at 6'
- 1 – 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ trim piece at 36″
- 1 – 3/4″ or 1″ cove molding at 8'
- 1 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 4' x8'
**1/2 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 4'x4'
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2″ finish nails (you can also use 2″ wood screws if finish nails are difficult, just be sure to countersink)
- 3″ Hole Saw Drill Bit – can also use your drill and a jig saw to carve cord holes
- 3/4″ iron on edge banding for the plywood top or you can trim out with 3/4″ square trim or use 1×12's instead of ply
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 2×3 at 31 1/4″ Legs
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 18″ x 28 1/4″ Side Panels
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 35 1/2″ x 28 1/4″ Back Panel
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 18″ x 38 1/2″ Shelves
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply at 22″ x 42 1/2″ Top (you can use 2 – 1×12's if you prefer)
- 1 – 2×2 at 35 1/2″ (Bottom Shelf Trim)
- 1 – 1×2 at 35 1/2″ (Upper Shelf Trim)
- 1 – 1″ cove molding at 42″
- 2 – 1″ cove molding at 22″
- 2 – 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ trim at 18″
Instructions
You can miter the trim pieces for this project and can modify the style of the trim as desired, however cove molding is most true to the original (allegedly).
If you are painting this piece, consider painting prior to assembling, for a smooth finish without difficult angles, corners and drippy parts…
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the legs and panel to size and angle the bottom 3″ of the legs by cutting it away to the 1″ mark of the width. Fasten your panels to the legs leaving 1/4″ on the outside to allow for the trim later. Use your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place.
Step 2
Cut your back panel to size, cut a hole into the the center at 6″ down from the top for cords and such to run out the back (smart, huh?). Use a 3″ hole saw or a jig saw to create your cord hole, and then attach the back panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. This panel will sit flush with the front of your back legs so that attaching your shelves will be easy and won't require notches.
Step 3
Turn your unit over and fasten your shelves in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock. You will create pocket holes around the entire perimeter of the shelves including what will be the front for easy attaching to the trim pieces. The trim for the bottom shelf (which will be at the top while turned over) will be a 2×2 that sits flush with the top of the shelf and a 1×2 for the upper shelf that sits on it's side, and is flush with the shelf. Fasten the shelves to the unit and then the trim to the shelves using your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 4
Fasten your top in place. It will sit flush with the back of the back legs, and should be centered on either side. Attach with glue and finish nails or screws if finish nails are difficult for you (they are for me and I don't own a nailer) just be sure to countersink your screws if you are going that route. If you prefer to use boards for the top you can substitute for edge glue pine boards or 2 – 1×12's and it will simply give you a bit more overhang which you can add to the backside so that it isn't off balance at all, or simply allow an extra 1/2″ toward the front and you will be fine.
Step 5
Miter your cove molding and attach under the top around the front and sides. Use your finish nails and glue to fasten in place. Cut your lower 1/4″ trim to size and fasten in place using finish nails and glue as well.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
I'm always so pleasantly surprised by neutral palettes that pack a wallop of style. It's a bit like a sneak attack. At first, your eye gently wanders over the image and calmly browses the room…and then BAM! It hits you like a knock-out punch, and suddenly you realize that you really like this space… it's calming and yet makes your heart sing with design excitement! The fact that it works for boys and girls, well that's just the icing on the cake. Ok, so perhaps I need to “see” someone about this, but what can I say…this is my passion and I love it in all forms, perhaps more than people sometimes (do you hear that family, if you don't behave, I'm likely to trade you in for a few choice magazine subscriptions and a nice big glass of wine!).
Plans
We covered the taller 72” sawhorse shelf, the corner unit and now this smaller and shorter little friend here! They all work fabulously together and I can’t wait to see how you all decide to finish your own! This is actually a really easy build if you have the right tools for the job. I fact it won’t take you long at all to whip this together! Not to mention you will save hundreds since the original will cost near $200 (or more) with shipping and tax, whereas this fine friend might be closer to $25 or $30!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Miter Saw – Can also use Miter Box, Jig Saw or Circular Saw, but you will need to make angled cuts for this project and will need to have a saw on hand.
- Jig Saw – you might also use a sander to round the leg tops, but it might be faster to carve them.
- Kreg Jig – there are connections that can't be made as easily without this tool.
Lumber
- 2 – 1×3 at 8'
- 1 – 1×2 at 10’
- 1 – 1×10 at 8’ this can be substituted for plywood or MDF if you prefer
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws (PHS).
- 2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×3 at 43 1/2″ Back Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 45 1/2” Front Legs (your actual cut length will be closer to 44 11/16” once you miter, this will give you a bit of room for error, though not much)
- 2 – 1×3 at 5 7/8″ Center Blocks (this is the longer length of the bottom)
- 6 – 1×2 at 18 1/2” Rails
- 2 – 1×10 at 11 15/16″ 1st Shelf
- 2 – 1×10 at 14 1/16″ 2nd Shelf
- 2 – 1×10 at 16 1/4″ 3rd Shelf
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Leg Bases: The Back Leg will stand upright at 90 degrees from the ground. The Center block will need to be cut at a right angle on one side and an 80 degree angle on the other side, with a top measurement of 5 7/16” and a bottom measurement of 5 7/8”, so if you prefer to use something other than a miter saw to make this piece, you can always create a 90 degree angle on one side and measure out from the bottom of the L Shape and cut your piece in that manner. The Front Legs will be a final cut length of 44 11/16” with the ends mitered at 80 degrees. Join the 2 legs and center block together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Once your pieces are attached, create an arc with a radius of 2 1/2” (yellow) and carve along this arc. You might also use a sander to create this shape it will just take you a bit longer.
Step 2
Fasten the Rails in place. Attach the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Note that the dimensions between rails are from the top of one rail to the bottom of the next. I have shown them set in 1/4” from the front or back edges of the legs.
Step 3
Cut and Fasten the Shelves in place. I have chosen the width of this piece to allow you the option of using 1×10’s or plywood/MDF. For me, boards are always an easier choice so I have modified accordingly. Fasten in place using 2” Screws and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
Inspired by PotteryBarn's Rustic Toy Box (no longer available) this piece comes in at under $30! Quite a Deal…Not to mention you get to choose the color! Why not match your decor?
This project also kicks off the first episode of our Hand Built Holiday Workshop Series! Santa has been busy prepping his workshop for Handmade Holiday fun! This particular piece will be included in our Toy Store Collection. I hope some of you will give building a try, just in time to save yourself some serious dollars for the Holiday Season! 30 days of Handmade… We will be busy little elves…no?
The piece we are working on today is a fabulous way to store your toys and perhaps could even act as a piece of furniture if you placed a lid on it? How cute would that be! The wheels are a turning…In fact, I have had this plan drawn for quite some time, but I wanted to build it first because…well I really don't have a good reason, but I did! The inspiration piece (allegedly) runs for around $200 (allegedly), which isn't that bad as far as specialty retailer furniture is concerned. But it certainly isn't as good as a price tag closer to $25! Am I right?
I shall be posting photos of my Rustic toy box along with a Finishing School tutorial! I hope you guys will enjoy it, and at the least should find it rather useful!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- 1″ Hole Saw or Jig Saw
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Kreg Jig – Optional
Lumber
- 1/2 sheet of 3/4″ Ply or MDF – **if you prefer to work with boards you can substitute with: 3 – 1×8 at 6' (this is what I did)
- 2 – 2×2 at 6' (if 8' furring strips are cheaper or more easily found, that will work too)
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Kreg Jig
- 3″ Wood Screws – if not using Kreg Jig
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 33″ x 16″ Front/Back Panels
- 2 – 3/4″Ply or MDF at 15″ x 16″ Sides
- 4 – 2×2 at 30″ Legs
Instructions
This is really fun to build because it's so simple. A great project to cut your building teeth on, if you are new to building and want to give something rather easy a try, yet that has a whole lot of style! Cost effective too! If you have any trouble, please contact me and I'm happy to help.
I chose to paint the boards after I cut and sanded them, and prior to assembling because I just have better luck with my finishing when I build in this order. This isn't entirely necessary, but whenever you are working with a box like shape, painting the inside becomes a touch cumbersome if you are trying to avoid drips.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Boards to Size. If you are working with a Pocket Hole system, you will want to create your pocket holes as shown below. Use your Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. You will be fastening your sides to the legs and will want to stagger your pocket hole placement a tad, so that you don't have competing fasteners from perpendicular boards. One option would be to alternate between placing pocket holes on the inside or the outside of each panel. also keep in mind that you will have a touch of difficulty fastening from the inside of the box, at least for the side panels, if you have a rather large drill. Consider placing those on the outsides.
The bottom will sit inside the sides and will fasten all the way around to each and every panel.
You can use a 1″ Hole Saw attachment on your drill or a Jig Saw to cut out the handles. I personally dislike using my Jig Saw, at least if it can be helped, so I opted for the Hole Saw route.
Step 2
If you aren't using a Pocket Hole Jig, you will simply countersink and fasten your panels to the legs using 3″ screws from the outside of the Legs into the Panels.
Really pretty simple. Your diagram is below and indicates that you will fasten the bottom to the inside of the sides and use 3″ screws for that as well. You can easily use 2 1/2″ screws, however to keep you from needing to buy 2 screw sizes, I am choosing to stick with the 3″ screw designation.
You can use a 1″ Hole Saw attachment on your drill, or a jig saw to cut out your handles.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Build
Our first WIYT guest is the fabulous and very funny Geoff Simpson! I hope some of you will also let me showcase what happens to be in your toolbox, that you can’t live without, or as Geoff says ‘might send you over to the knitting dark side’ if you didn’t have it!
Let’s talk about what you find crucial for your toolbox: Favorite Tool(s): This is a hard one. If I had to sell the majority of what I own and just keep a few key pieces I would go with the following:
- Pancake Compressor Kit w/ Brad-Nail/Narrow Crown Staple/Finishing guns: If I had to go back to hammering rotten little finishing nails with a tack hammer…I think I’d give up woodworking and take up knitting. The time savings alone is enough to make me a little wobbly in my knees when I think about it. A good combo kit can be picked up for around $200 and will include everything you need to get started, up to and including the nails/staples themselves. So, apart from the time savings and the obvious cool factor of walking around with something vaguely gun-shaped…think about never bending finicky little nails, missing the nail and hitting your thumb, or worse yet the piece of furniture you’ve been working on all weekend. Think about never having to dig around in 2 inches of sawdust to find that evil little brad-nail that you just dropped.
- Table Saw: Any woodworker worth their salt already has one, or is shopping for one, the exception being those that simply don’t have the room for it. I love my ugly orange screamer. It makes too much noise. It makes too much of a mess. It’s a little scary…I love it. The common problem many people have, is that they think of the table saw as a weapon that’s pointed right at them. Which isn’t necessarily wrong. However, there’s so much you can do with one beyond just ripping down wood into manageable lengths/widths. I use mine to make Dado’s, I’ve used it to smooth out and trim the faintest little bit of paint off the edge of a shelf. I’ve even seen some older woodworkers use them as a lathe and round out stacks of 2×4’s (do that one at your own risk). It is the single busiest tool in my shop.
- Clamps: Bar. C-shaped. Ratcheting. Vise. Get as many as you can as often as possible and don’t cheap out. All plastic bodies…fine. But make sure the guts of that clamp aren’t all plastic as well. There will be very few moments in your woodworking life when you don’t require a clamp for something. Be it for holding two pieces of wood together for a glue-up, squeezing a joint together that’s slightly out of line, holding your piece to the workbench as you sand or router the top and/or edges or holding down a straightedge to run your circular or jig-saw against…..the applications and uses are endless!
Give us a Tip, what makes building easier for you or gives you a better end result: TIP: Add a little bit of water to your latex paint next time you’re painting and lose those brush strokes forever. Grab a jar/bucket/yogurt container, pour in your paint and add the H20….no more than 5-10% tops. Mix it up and paint it on a scrap chuck of wood to test it out. Adjust the mixture as needed in order to thin or thicken it. Once you’ve got the consistency you need, you’ll be a lot happier with your finish.
Genius! I love your choices and tips Geoff! In fact I have the pancake compressor combo kit on my wish list! This is definitely the next “required” purchase for me! That and getting more comfortable with my own screamer…no guarantees on that one, eek! So, what’s in your toolbox? I hope you will all send me your favorite tools, tips and tricks so we can all share the wealth and learn from each other!
Design
I may have mentioned in a previous post, regarding the study of space we have been conducting here, that I have not always been a huge fan of rustic unless it’s juxtaposed with a more modern interior. That being said, there is nothing I love more than antiques and curiosities with their age and wear celebrated right out in the open. I love tarnished silver…I have no clue why this is, but I adore it… the colors, the emotion it seems to convey, the play of light, and the history that it suggests. I am quickly learning that as it concerns rustic styling, I enjoy pieces that show age and wear rather than a typical rustic or even country styled interior, at least in the traditional sense. I love farmhouse but I think it’s because you find that tinge of Industrial Chic and therefore a modern sensibility thrown into the mix…As it concerns the two interiors below, I throw much of my “ideas” about what I like out the window… There is something calming and soothing in these spaces and it’s likely because of the rustic and virtually decayed appearing (I doubt it’s actually decayed) wood that envelops both rooms. There is a coziness here, is there not? and yet very much a modern and global essence contained in these relatively small spaces both with relatively huge amounts of unique and stunning style.
DIY / Home
After as many items I have added and un-added to my Monster Mash’s room, I am likely going to have to check into rehab ‘in real life’ for obsessive compulsive decorating disorder! No doubt! I am sure they have a rehab for that, they do for every thing else… however this post is not so much about that as it is my amazing furniture rehab! yay! I shared one of the first decorating projects I did in this room with you guys here, and since then I have been spinning my wheels like a madwoman! I have been on a donating kick for the last several months (not very successfully) and when I have a load ready to take to Goodwill, I make it a point to stroll the aisles for a quick spin, to see what they might have in need of a new home and perhaps a makeover too! I have only been successful once and the fruits of my labor include this fabulous low coffee table just begging to be painted and take the place of my little guy’s crib turned daybed couch which he no longer uses (for sometime now).
I had quite the experience taking it down and storing his baby things away, but that is a whole weepy post on it’s own account! On to bigger better things, am I right? Behold my trashy treasure:
Fabulous bones, solid wood and no veneer! Can it be possible? Apparently, but who knew people actually donated wooden pieces…not me! My Rockler Bench Cookies and Cones were going to come in handy on this project! The perfect piece to use my DecoArt Americana Satin Enamel in Evening Blue! It’s only one of the most gorgeous colors and the creamiest dreamiest paint consistency!
The cones are a fabulous accessory to the Rockler Bench Cookies that allow you to use your no-slip grippers for painting and raise your piece up on it’s legs so you can reach those tricky areas around the base or legs! Fabulous invention if I do say so …
Simply place one cone on one bench cookie and away you go!
Isn’t this exciting! I see lot’s of refinishing in my future and a lot less cleanup since I do quite a bit of painting in my Family Room! Eek…
Just marvel at that… those tricky edges, difficult areas to reach, are all no longer an issue!
Since my MM (Monster Mash) has blue in his room already of a more turquoise persuasion, I thought adding a bit of Americana Acrylic Paint in Snow (Titanium) White would ensure the blues weren’t too different by lightening the DecoArt Americana Satin Enamel in Evening Blue color up just a bit. This piece as you can see in the image above had a nice stain at one time, but no glossy finish or sealant remains and the stain is extremely faded itself so I didn’t expect to worry about it penetrating the color (as can occasionally happen given the nature of stain) and planned accordingly to simply enjoy it, if it should in fact occur! I didn’t bother to prime or even sand it to scuff it a bit, since to be perfectly frank, that is where I gain most of my unevenness, brush strokes, and drips. In fact I tend to avoid primer as often as possible unless I am attempting to cover something that needs the ‘tooth’ primer provides or if I am trying to cover something terrible looking (shhh, don’t tell anyone that!).
I took this one outside since I knew I didn’t have to worry about drips on the ground (paint cleans up from hardwood floors more easily than concrete!) thanks to my Rockler Bench Cookies and cone combo! I have something of an old pro when it comes to painting, and except for the rare accident or splattering from a crazed paint roller (or my monster mash) I hardly ever get drips or spills on the floor. This is generally because I am a big proponent of several thin coats of paint with an ultra fine foam roller. There is quite frankly nothing on earth that will give you a smoother finish (except perhaps a sprayer, and even then not always). I rolled a total of 2 coats and it was perfection. I typically do 3 coats the first of which I roll in the direction of the grain, the second is opposite the grain and the 3rd to smooth out and perfect in the same direction as the grain. This piece really didn’t require much and the paint coverage with the DecoArt Americana Satin Enamel is superb so I started in the direction opposite the grain and then did my second in the direction of the grain. Hard to show so you will have to take my word for it! I also gave it 2 good rub downs with Minwax Wipe-On Poly to hard coat it and protect it from the dance parties I know my MM will be having on this baby! 3 hours later this fine new addition was dry, and ready to move into it’s new home. It might have been ready before that, but I forgot about it and it sat outside all alone for longer than I had planned! Good thing I remembered before the rain came!
You can see it, in it’s new home, all happy and contented with a very big boy (and not so great mom provided) meal of toast and a pink lollypop! The big boy room is starting to take shape though I still have a few more fun projects to share with you all! Stay tuned for more progress of MM’s big boy room makeover! See you soon, hope you enjoyed my ramblings as much as I enjoyed sharing with you all!
