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Design / Shopping / Studio
It seems like summer has just begun and I find myself dreaming of those crisp fall mornings…Fall colors never cease to please me!
Sources
Image: from Johnny Miller via Martha Stewart Living Mag
Resources: Listed from Left to Right and Top to Bottom
Bedding, Cowl Neck Wrap, Drawer Pulls, Baskets, Vine Lanterns, Acorns, Flower, Rug, Pillow, Pendant Lighting, Photo, Tote, Vase, Slippers, Photo, Leather Mirror, Table Runner, Acorn Candies, Quartz Tealights, Army Medical Pouch, Earrings, Lamp, Necklace, Vinyl Wall Art, Bag, Coasters
Showcase
The Caddy that stole my heart!
This caddy has come in handy SOOOO much over the past few months. I built it literally minutes after I saw Rayan's plans posted, and it was initially for my bathroom (my daughter's hair accessories are EVERYWHERE). It was a little too big and a LOTTA too awkward in there, so I figured out the best use for this thing EVER!
DIAPER CADDY!
After it didn't “work” in my bathroom, I had plans on repainting it to go in the baby's room… but it's still that Sassy Peach by Valspar.
And I still LOVE it.
Plans
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Plans
Another quickie for ya'll! These are the perfect accessory for any home office, playroom, craft room, or any other room you might like a bit of extra storage! How about chalkboard paint for these so you can label them the easy way? Use this in one of the many pieces in this collection, or put it on your counter to collect the mail or in place of a junk drawer, for keys, wallets, and receipts.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Brad Nailer (some staple guns have a brad nailer capability…mine does) or Hammer
- Jig Saw – optional if you want to cut the curved slot from the front
Lumber
1/4 sheet of 1/4″ Plywood, MDF or coated Particle board (depending on your preference).
Materials
- 5/8″ Brad Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 12″ x6″ Side Panels
- 1 – 1/4″ Stock at 4 1/2″ x12″ Bottom Panel
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 5″ x 6 ” Front and Back Panels
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your panels to size. This project will most easily (and most precisely) be built if you are to cut strips of your plywood at the appropriate width and then cut the proper lengths from that long strip. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a square build.
Notch out the front using a jig saw, and fasten together using nails and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
My husband's uncle asked me to build a buffet for him, but was intentionally vague on everything he wanted, aside from the dimensions. I came and looked through Rayan's plan index for ideas, and decided that the Mitchell cubbies would be perfect, with a few modifications.
I love how Rayan assembled it (as opposed to other plans for the same thing, that I've seen out there), but knew my husband's uncle wanted something a little more traditional. So I just “filled in” the front frames, added height (to account for the 4″ cement baseboards that are built into all the houses on the Navajo reservation), tacked on some ply to the back and lengthened it a bit.
This build, however, I DID use the back supports…. and (obviously) added doors 🙂
I finished the shelf at 11:30pm the night before my husband's uncle came (at 5:30am!), so there wasn't enough good light to get a good photo… so I asked him to send me one after he had it put it. So there ya have it, “home” and decorated (Navajo style)!
$70, which included the MDF, 1/4″ ply for the back & General Finishes gel stain
The body of the shelf is made out of MDF and the frame is pine furring strips. To get the colors consistent, I used a gel stain and stained the wood, then “painted” it on the MDF, feathering my strokes to resemble the light/dark notes in wood.
This was the first time that I'd used General Finishes gel stain, and… Can I just tell you how AMAZING it is? I tend to use gel stain for anything I plan on staining, just because it's easier to get an even coverage… and I was perfectly happy with Minwax. I can't say WHY I got a hair up my butt to try General Finishes… but I did… and luckily, there's a retailer very near me that sells it (only 2 in my state and one happens to be on the way to my hubby's work!). This stuff is BEAUTIFUL.
Design
Gray is everywhere this fall season in fashion, and when something is frequented in fashion, you can bet on finding it for your home as well.
Color Palette: White, Beige, Light Gray, Charcoal, Brown
Sources
Images via Vogue.com and Mark Eden Schooley
Resources: from Left to Right and Top to Bottom
Mushroom, Felted Wool Briaded Rug, Butaca Chairs, Dinnerware, Slate Cheese Board, Riddling Rack, Felted Wool Stones, Chunky Wool Cube, Puzzle Board, Pendant, Lazy Susan, Pear Terrariums
Plans
We covered the shorter 43 1/2” sawhorse shelf, the corner unit and now this taller friend here! They all work fabulously together and I can’t wait to see how you all decide to finish your own! This is actually a really easy build if you have the right tools for the job. In fact it won’t take you long at all to whip this together! Not to mention you will save hundreds since the original will cost near $200 (or more) with shipping and tax, whereas this fine friend might be closer to $25 or $30!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Miter Saw – Can also use Miter Box, Jig Saw or Circular Saw, but you will need to make angled cuts for this project and will need to have a saw on hand.
- Jig Saw – you might also use a sander to round the leg tops, but it might be faster to carve them.
- Kreg Jig – there are connections that can't be made as easily without this tool.
Lumber
- 2 – 1×3 at 6'
- 2 – 1×3 at 8'
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×10 at 6’ this can be substituted for plywood or MDF if you prefer
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws (PHS).
- 2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2- 1×3 at 72″ Back Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 74 1/2” Front Legs (your actual cut length will be closer to 73 1/2” once you miter, this will give you a bit of room for error, though not much so be careful)
- 2 – 1×3 at 2″ Center Blocks
- 10 – 1×2 at 18 1/2” Rails
- 2 – 1×10 at 7 11/16″ 1st Shelf
- 2 – 1×10 at 9 13/16″ 2nd Shelf
- 2 – 1×10 at 11 15/16″ 3rd Shelf
- 2 – 1×10 at 14 1/16″ 4th Shelf
- 2 – 1×10 at 16 1/4″ 5th Shelf
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Leg Bases: The Back Leg will stand upright at 90 degrees from the ground. The Center block will need to be cut at a right angle on one side and an 80 degree angle on the other side, with a top measurement of 3/8” and a bottom measurement of 13/16”, so if you prefer to use something other than a miter saw to make this piece, you can always create a 90 degree angle on one side and measure out 3/8” from the top and 13/16” from the bottom of the L Shape and cut your piece in that manner. The Front Legs will be a final cut length of 73 1/2” with the ends mitered at 80 degrees (10 Degrees Off Center) on the Top and 100 Degrees (-10 Degrees Off Center) on the Bottom. Join the 2 legs and center block together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Your Second Leg Base will be constructed precisely the same way.
Step 2
Once your pieces are attached, create an arc with a radius of 2 1/2” and carve along this arc on the outside of each leg base. You might also use a sander to create this shape it will just take you a bit longer. Below the image shows how the arcs for each leg base need to line up. It doesn’t need to be perfect, but you want it to look continuous.
Step 3
Fasten the Rails in place. Attach the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Note that the dimensions between rails are from the top of one rail to the bottom of the next. I have shown them set in 1/4” from the front or back edges of the legs.
Step 4
Cut and Fasten the Shelves in place. I have chosen the width of this piece to allow you the option of using 1×10’s or plywood/MDF. For me, boards are always an easier choice so I have modified accordingly. Fasten in place using 2” Screws and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home / Showcase
Aside from the Low Loft Bunk I built for Monster Mash, This desk has been the best thing that ever happened to MY FEET! And of course by ‘my feet’ I loving refer to the fact that it’s the perfect storage cubby containment for those deadly leggos and other terribly painful things like train tracks! Yes deadly and terribly painful…any of you with toddlers and kids who adore leggos, small cars, train tracks and other tiny, sharp, little things know exactly what I mean! eek!
I began this build with the intention of making the Ann Marie Storage Cubby Shelves, and since I didn’t have a car that could carry a whole sheet of MDF…I had my local Home Depot cut my sheet down into the appropriate measurements.
Of course they did a mediocre job on my cuts…after the grumpy gentlemen argued with me for 5 minutes about how all of the cuts couldn’t possibly fit on one sheet. Of course they could…and no I didn’t need him to shave off a 1/4″ here and a 1/4″ there, thank you very much! Ugg…so back to the drawing board where I determined that my mis-measured (and mis-cut)pieces could be cut down and modified (even further) into the Desk! yay…and truly it was a happy accident because the desk gives MM a fabulous place to play with all of the toys we have stuffed into it!
Estimated Cost
About $25 since I already had paint and some of the trim pieces.
Lumber Used
I used 3/4″ MDF for the Entire unit with 2×3 legs and 1×2 mdf trim pieces with the exception of one 1×3 trim piece on the top trim of the cubbies.
Finishing Technique
I used Rustoleum Stone Gray (I think) in High Gloss to create a durable washable surface and make it easy to get into all of the nooks and crannies on this piece. Spray Paint was definitely the way to go for me since I get a bit lazy sometimes and for me lazy = sloppy and drippy, so this was really best for everyone!
Design / Shopping
The Design for this home speaks to me. It’s calming and yet there is no lack of interest or drama. Perhaps it’s that there is just enough drama to complete the gesture without taking any unnecessary design steps. This is a well balanced and edited home design, bordering on the minimal side, as far as the number of items actually found in each space.
Plans
This piece will handle quite a bit of your storage needs and will looks fabulous and dramatic in any setting.
Isn't it a beauty? As far as dressers and drawers are concerned this is really simple to build. I have complete faith in all of you, even if you have never constructed anything before, not to worry, you can handle this.
As a grouping with the other pieces in the collection…amazing!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Iron – for applying the edge banding. You can generally just use a standard iron.
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Miter Saw – or circular saw,hand saw and miter box, or Saw and a Square. This can be done in multiple ways, a Compound Sliding Miter Saw will be the most accurate and fastest, however you are not limited if you don't own this.
- Router – optional hand grip indentation along bottom of drawer facing.
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 10'
- 1 – 1×3 at 8'
- 2 – 2×12 at 10'
- 2 – 2×12 at 8'
- 1 – 1×8 at10'
- 1 – 1×8 at 8'
- 2 – 1×2 at 10'
- 5 Sheets- 3/4″ Plywood at 4'x8'
Materials
- 2″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
- 3/4″ Edge Banding for the Face of the Shelves.
Cut List
- 7 – 1×3 at 17 1/2″ (Base Frame)
- 2 – 1×3 at 39″ (Base Frame)
- 4 – 2×12 at 42″ (Top and Bottom Exterior Perimeter)
- 4 – 2×12 at 53″ (Side Panels Exterior Perimeter)
- 10 – 1×2 at 21″ (Cleats)
- 5 – 1×8 at 39″ (Drawer Faces)
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 39×21″ (Top and Bottom Interior Box)
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 48 1/2 x 21″ (Sides of Interior Box)
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply at 50×39″ (Back)
- 5 – 3/4″ Ply at 37 1/2 x 21″ (Shelves)
- 8 – 3/4″ Ply at 37 1/2 x 7 3/4″ (Bottom Drawers – Front and Back)
- 8 – 3/4″ Ply at 19 1/2 x 7″ (Bottom Drawers – Sides)
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 37 1/2 x 8 1/2″ (Top Drawer – Front and Back)
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 19 1/2 x 7 3/4″ (Top Drawer – Sides)
- 5 – 3/4″ Ply at 37 1/2 x 19 1/2″ (Drawer Bottoms)
Instructions
I have decided that as far as drawers go, that I will fore go adding drawer hardware to my plans because, well, I think they complicate the process just enough to dissuade some of you from attempting to build anything with drawers. That being said, if you are a bit more
experienced and enjoy drawer tracks, please feel free to add them and modify the portion of the plans pertaining to the drawer size, by allowing for the dimension of either a bottom track or 2 side tracks for each drawer unit. The drawer face will remain the same size only the actual drawer itself will change by the overall allowance necessary for the entire track (either the height or the width depending on the
hardware you choose).
** I have designed this project so that you can merely glue the panels together and the Interior Box Frame will actually act to fasten and hold the Outside Boards in place. This project should be very easy to complete.
** Because we are skipping the drawer track hardware I have designed the actual drawers themselves to fit very snugly inside their casings, so you may need to sand them down the tiniest bit to allow for ease of opening and closing.
** You have the option of using a Router with specialized bit, along the bottom edge of each Drawer Face for creating a hand hold for opening and closing the drawers more easily as well. If you don't have this tool and don't care to rent one, you will not terribly suffer for it, and this piece will be just as beautiful.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Frame for the Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 2
Miter the outside edges of each pair of Perimeter Boards at 45 Degrees: Glue each pair together and let cure. The image below shows the dimensions for the Top and Bottom Pair.
Step 3
Build your Interior Box and attach the Cleats: This will likely be done most easily by laying this flat however the images all show this vertically and upside down from how it will ultimately sit.
Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue for the box and 1 1/4″ Screws for the Cleats.
Step 4
Attach the shelves to the bottom of the cleats (you are actually working on the box upside down). Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Iron on 3/4″ Edge Banding to the front of the shelves. Choose a type that matches your Exterior Boards. Insert the Shelves: Fasten to the cleats using 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 5
Attach the Back of the Dresser: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Attach the Side Panels: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from the inside.
Step 7
Attach the Base Pair of Boards to the Base Frame: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Step 8
Turn the Main Component over and fasten to the Base Panel and Frame. Use 2″ Screws and Wood glue. The mitered edges should align perfectly.
Step 9
Build the drawers using the measurements shown above. The top drawer will be a different size than the bottom 4 drawers, however all of the Drawer Faces will be the same.
Notice how the boards fit together, and their placement, in the images below. Build the Drawer first, then attach the Drawer face from the inside.
The bottom of the drawer face is flush with the bottom of the drawer. Use 2″ Screws and Wood glue for the Drawer and 1 1/4″ Screws for attaching the drawer face. The Drawer Face will have a 3/4″ Overhang on either side of the Drawer itself, and will overhang the top of the drawer as well.
Top Drawer and then bottom drawer:
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
How about a few more accessories for this collection? Or any collection or purpose for that matter!
Line up your plywood strips and build a few of these at a time. Use spray paint, to finish these, and fly through the build quickly. These are the perfect accessory for any home office, playroom, craft room, or any other room you might like a bit of extra storage! How about chalkboard paint for these so you can label them the easy way? On your counter in place of a junk drawer or for keys, wallets, and mail would be fabulous use.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Brad Nailer (some staple guns have a brad nailer capability…mine does) or Hammer
- Jig Saw – optional if you want to cut the curved slot from the front
Lumber
1/4 sheet of 1/4″ Plywood, MDF or coated Particle board (depending on your preference).
Materials
- 5/8″ Brad Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 12″ x4″ Side Panels
- 1 – 1/4″ Stock at 16 1/4″ x12″ Bottom Panel
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 16 3/4″ x 4 ” Front and Back Panels
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your panels to size. This project will most easily (and more precisely) be built if you are to cut strips of your plywood at the width and then cut the lengths from that strip. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a more perfect (and square) build.
Notch out the front using a jig saw, and fasten together using nails and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / DIY / Home
This project is quick and easy, and you absolutely must eat all the cookies before you can begin! It’s a rule!
Supplies:
Cookie Tin or any other tin you can purchase either empty or full.
Painter’s Tape
Primer
DecoArt Dazzling Metallics in White Pearl
Krylon Spray Paint in Satin Avocado
Let’s get started…it goes fast, and you will be finished in the blink of an eye!
Here is my tin which I enjoyed eating. This fine friend was purchased at my neighboring Drug Store so you can be sure to find something like this easily. It only took me a few days to polish off (or an hour?)!
Here is my tin which I enjoyed eating. This fine friend was purchased at my neighboring Drug Store so you can be sure to find something like this easily. It only took me a few days to polish off (or an hour?)!
Then 2 coats of my DecoArt Dazzling Metallics in Pearl and once that was completely dry (very important here…) I used 2 strips of painters tape to form a cross shape (actually more like a plus sign I suppose).
I sprayed 3 coats of Krylon right over the top of the tape and paint primer base layer. It took me 3 coats to be sure the top was well coated and the sides were as well, but each area actually only received 2 coats total.
Let it dry before you attempt to pull off the tape, this is different than prepping your walls in that you don’t have to worry so much about an uneven surface. Once you are ready, carefully pull you tape off to ensure you don’t pull up any of the spray paint layer. If you feel like you might, use an exacto knife carefully along the edge of your tape to make a complete separation.
That’s it, so simple, didn’t I tell ya? I am loving it and so is my Monster Mash! He is fairly certain he needs to use it to fix people but I am doing my best to keep it as a decorative item! Fingers Crossed…
