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Plans
The left and right components for this cubby organizer series work well together, alone, or alongside the center unit (plans found here). Â All 3 work beautifully in conjunction with the remainder of the Craft Collection, and of course, just like the Center Cubby Unit, the left and right are sized for the Tall and Small Cubby Drawers (plans found here).
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Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Drill or Brad Nailer (some staple guns have a brad nailer capability…mine does) or Hammer
- Saw – unless your local lumber supply will make cuts for you.
Lumber
- 1/4 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood, Â MDF Â or coated Particle board…something hard and stainable or paintable (depending on your finishing preference).
**1/4 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood, MDF, or coated Particle board – in the original, they use 3/4″ stock on the bottom, if you prefer you can use 1/2″ for this and spare yourself the purchase of this piece OR you can also increase to a 1×8 and increase the depth of each vertical panel by 1/2″. Â If you go this route, you will have some left over, use it for the center unit (plans found here).
Materials
- Iron on Edge Banding if you might like that.
- 1″ Screws or Brad Nails
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
Cut list is for one unit: if you would like to make one left and one right unit, double each number of cuts.
- 1 – 3/4″ Stock at 10 1/2″ x 6 3/4″ Bottom Panel – this can also be 1/2″ stock if you prefer
- 2 – 1/2″ Stock at 11 1/2″x6 3/4″ Outside Panels
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 11 1/2″ x 6 1/4″ Divider Panel
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 9 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ Back Panel
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 6 1/4″ x 5 1/2″ Shelf
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 10 1/2″ x 3 3/4″ Top Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut ALL of your panels to size. This project will most easily (and more perfectly) be built if you are to cut a strip of your plywood at the appropriate width for all of those pieces at that particular width and then cut your lengths from your strips. For example, your outside panels are both 6 3/4″ wide and 11 1/2″ tall, so cut a strip of ply that is 6 3/4″ wide by 23 1/4″ or so and then cut both pieces to their 11 1/2″ height from this strip. Give yourself extra length in your strip to account for the saw blade and the amount of wood it removes. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a more perfect build. You won't have inaccuracies in width that will throw you off square by doing this.
Fasten your pieces together using glue and 1″ screws or brad nails. For fastening the bottom in place, use 1 1/4″ screws and be sure to countersink. The back is inset and so is the divider panel. This keeps you from having so many exposed edges.
Step 2
Fasten the shelves in place and tack on the top. Use a Pocket hole system set for 1/2″ stock and 1″ pocket hole screws and glue OR use 1″ screws and glue starting with the 2 shelves on the outsides and the add the center shelf by screwing up at an angle from below that shelf. Fasten each shelf from the back as well and use glue. Fasten the top in place using brad nails and glue or screws.
Step 3
Diagrams of Right and Left Units. The left unit will be made precisely the same way only your divider and shelf location will be reversed.
Right Side Cubby Organizer:
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Shopping
I am completely smitten with this collection by Allison Yip. I adore the colors chosen for these pieces and in the midst of this sweltering hot summer heat I am dreaming of a seaside retreat complete with this dreamy colorful essence…
Plans
This plan finishes the Hudson Smart Media and Gaming Console.  We covered the plans for building the Unit here, and the Insert with drawer here, now the doors complete the project!  Oh she is a beauty.  Please remember you are able to request projects and pieces in the Community under the Project Requests and Suggestions Topic.  You must be registered to do so, but that only requires and email address and a simple math equation.  Not to mention, once you are registered, you can create your own Profile Page under the Mingle Tab and include your blog, web address, picture or logo etc!  A great way to have another layer of interaction and branding!
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Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Saw
- Kreg Jig – optional
- Miter Saw
Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 8'
- 1 – 1×2 at 6'
- 2 – 3/4″ Cove Molding at 6'
- 1 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ Trim at 8'
- 1 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ Trim at 6'
- 1/4 sheet – 1/4″ Ply or MDF at 2' x 4'
- 1/4 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 2' x 4'
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Materials
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 7/8″ Wood Screws
- 3/4″ Finish Nails or Brad Nails
- 4 Hinges – Inset
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 4 – 1×2 at 14 9/16″ Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 20 1/4″ Stiles
- 2 – 1/4″ Ply at 16 1/16″ x 18 3/4″ Back Panel
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 14 1/4″ x 11 9/16″ Front Panels
- 4 – 1/4″x3/4″ Trim at 16 1/16″ Trim for Back Panel
- 4 – 1/4″x3/4″ Trim at 20 1/4″ Trim for Back Panel
- 3/4″ Cove Molding at 17 1/4″ Cove Molding Vertical Pieces
- 3/4″ Cove Molding at 14 9/16″ Cove Molding Horizontal Pieces
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Create your Door Face Frame. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and place your pocket holes on the rails (blue).
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Step 2
Attach the Back Panel and the surrounding trim for the Back Panel. Use 3/4″ Finish Nails or Brad Nails and Glue.
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Step 3
Add the Front Panel, fasten using glue and 7/8″ Screws from the Backside, be sure to countersink for the most professional appearance. Leave 1 1/2″ around the perimeter of your Front Panel.
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Step 4
Miter the corners of your Cove Molding and Fasten around the Front Panel as well as the Back Panel using glue and 3/4″ Finish Nails. The dimensions I am giving you below are the longest dimensions and your miter will be inward toward the Front Panel. Hang your doors on the unit using inset hinges. Choose hinges that are easy to install and are affordable for your budget.
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Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
DIY / Shopping / Studio
That's right folks…for all of you wallpaper pattern lovers out there (me!), you no longer have to go without just because you don't own your own home…
Say it with me now…yaaaaa-hooooooo!
Tempaper offers Temporary Wallpaper described as “a Giant Post-It Note for Decorating”… It's the perfect DIY project because it's repositionable, and is supposed to be easy to apply. Â Yep that means you probably won't screw this up folks (as in perfect DIY project for those of you with 2 left feet, or 2 left hands…or 2 right hands, or no hands?)!
Design
There is something about decayed spaces and crumbling plastered walls in ruin that has always captured my intrigue…
Sources
Images via weheartit: Image 1, 2
Plans
How about a couple more accessories for this collection? Â Yes please!
This plan is so simple, it has me believing you could line up your plywood strips and knock out several of these in under 30 minutes. Using a spray paint to finish these would make the process even faster and these are the perfect accessory for any home office, playroom, craft room, and any other room you would like a bit of extra storage!  How about chalkboard paint for these so you can label them the easy way?
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Brad Nailer (some staple guns have a brad nailer capability…mine does) or Hammer
- Jig Saw – optional if you want to cut the curved slot from the front
Lumber
1/4 sheet of 1/4″ Plywood, MDF or coated Particle board…something hard and stainable or paintable.
Materials
- 5/8″ Brad Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
Small:
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 5 3/4″ x4″ Side Panels
- 1 – 1/4″ Stock at 5 3/4″ x 4 3/4″ Bottom Panel
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 5 1/4″ x 4 ” Front and Back Panels
Tall:
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 5 3/4″x6″ Side Panels
- 1 – 1/4″ Stock at 5 3/4″ x 4 3/4″ Bottom Panel
- 2 – 1/4″ Stock at 5 1/4″ x 6″ Front and Back Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Small Cubby Drawer:
Cut your panels to size. This project will most easily (and more perfectly) be built if you are to cut 2 strips of your plywood at 5 1/4″ x 8 1/4″ (front and back) and the other at 5 3/4″x13 1/4″ (sides and bottom) or so and then cut your heights for the panels. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a more perfect build. You won't have inaccuracies in width that will throw you off square by doing this.
Notch out the front using a jig saw, and fasten together using nails and glue.
Step 2
Tall Cubby Drawer:
Cut your panels to size. This project will most easily (and more perfectly) be built if you are to cut 2 strips of your plywood at 5 1/4″ x 12 1/4″ (front and back) and the other at 5 3/4″x17″ (sides and bottom) or so, and then cut your heights for the individual panels. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a more perfect build. You won't have inaccuracies in width that will throw you off square, if you construct this way.
Notch out the front using a jig saw, and fasten together using nails and glue.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This component will perfectly house 3 small cubby drawers and 3 tall cubby drawers along with whatever you might place in the side pockets! This is the perfect organizational tool for all of your office and crafty needs.
- Drill or Brad Nailer (some staple guns have a brad nailer capability…mine does) or Hammer
- Saw – unless your local lumber supply will make cuts for you.
- 1/2 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood, MDF or coated Particle board…something hard and stainable or paintable (depending on your finishing preference).
**1/2 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood, MDF, or coated Particle board – in the original, they use 3/4″ stock on the bottom, if you prefer you can use 1/2″ for this and spare yourself the purchase of this piece OR you can also increase to a 1×8 and increase the depth of each vertical panel by 1/2″. If you go this route, you will have some left over, use it for the left and right pieces coming next!
- 1″ Screws or Brad Nails
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 1 – 3/4″ Stock at 33″ x 6 3/4″ Bottom Panel – this can also be 1/2″ stock if you prefer
- 2 – 1/2″ Stock at 11 1/2″x6 3/4″ Outside Panels
- 4 – 1/2″ Stock at 11 1/2″ x 6 1/4″ Divider Panels
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 11 1/2″ x 32″ Back Panel
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 33″ x 6 3/4″ Top Panel
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut ALL of your panels to size. This project will most easily (and more perfectly) be built if you are to cut a strip of your plywood at the appropriate width for all of those pieces at that particular width and then cut your lengths from your strips. For example, your outside panels are both 6 3/4″ wide and 11 1/2″ tall, so cut a strip of ply that is 6 3/4″ wide by 23 1/4″ or so and then cut both pieces to their 11 1/2″ height from this strip. Give yourself extra length in your strip to account for the saw blade and the amount of wood it removes. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a more perfect build. You won’t have inaccuracies in width that will throw you off square by doing this.
Fasten your pieces together using glue and 1″ screws or brad nails. For fastening the bottom in place, use 1 1/4″ screws and be sure to countersink.
Step 2
Fasten the shelves in place. Use a Pocket hole system set for 1/2″ stock and 1″ pocket hole screws and glue OR use 1″ screws and glue starting with the 2 shelves on the outsides and the add the center shelf by screwing up at an angle from below that shelf. Fasten each shelf from the back as well and use glue.
Step 3
Attach the top panel using glue and 1″ screws or brad nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Showcase
I think this plan was posted during the handbuilt holiday phase, and I knew right away that it would be the perfect Christmas present for my two nephews.
This toy was actually quite stressful to build, but it was absolutely not Rayan's fault. She based the plans on a racetrack from Land of Nod (right?) and neither of us had read the reviews for the actual product before I dived into the build.
Turned out, Rayan and I had to converse a LOT to get this thing to actually let the cars “race” without falling miserably from one level to the other. After it was assembled finally, we were able to use any car (matchbox, hot wheels, the cheap wood ones that come in the train track sets) with NO problems.
Plans
I saw some of the new items online at Potterybarn yesterday…as you can tell from our set of plans posted here.  I thought it would be fitting to do continue with a few other “big kid” toys for those of us who love all things chalkboard related (me…you too?) and all things storage and organization-centric!  I'm a sucker for labels and bins…and chalkboards, oh my!
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Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Miter Saw – or miter box and hand saw, jig saw, or circular saw.
Lumber
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
- 3/4×3/4 square at
- 1/4 x 2 1/2 at
- 1/2 sheet 1/4″ Plywood or other thin paintable material
Materials
- 7/8″ Wood Screws
- S Hooks in oil rubbed bronze – optional and can also be in any other finish.
- Picture Frame Hanging Hardware
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
- Chalkboard Paint – can choose magnetic chalkboard paint to more closely resemble the original
Cut List
- 1 – 1/4″ Ply at 35 1/2″ x 47 1/2″ Chalkboard surface
- 2 – 1/4×2 1/2 at 35 1/2″ Top Frame Surround
- 2 – 1/4×2 1/2 at 48″ Sides Frame Surround
- 2 – 3/4×3/4 at 34″ Top for step 2
- 2 – 3/4×3/4 at 47 1/2″ Sides for step 2
- 2 – 1×2 at 34″ Top and Bottom for step 3
- 2 – 1×2 at 9 1/2″ Top Pieces on sides for step 3
- 2 -1×2 at 11 3/4″ Bottom Pieces on sides for step 3
- 6 – 1×2 at 8 3/4″ Middle Pieces on sides for step 3
- 2 to 4 – 1/2″ dowel rod at 35 1/2″ the number you use is entirely up to you
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your Chalkboard to size and surround with your 1/4″x2 1/2″ Lattice Board. It is wise to finish your pieces here before assembling so you don't have to worry about tricky edges. You will almost be creating a little pocket for the chalkboard. Use 7/8″ screws and glue. Use the glue carefully and sparingly so it doesn't ruin your finish.
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Step 2
Carefully fasten your 3/4″ square pieces to the inside right up against the Chalkboard surface. This is going to create a stopper of sorts for your dowel rods. Use glue (sparingly and carefully) and 7/8″ screws to secure in place.
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Step 3
You are going to add a second layer of wood now, right on top of your 3/4″ square pieces only you will be using 1×2's on their sides for this layer. For the 1×2's down the sides you will want to cut your boards to the dimensions shown below, then miter both ends (except on the top and bottom pieces) at a 25 degree angle as shown in the example piece adjacent to the organizer diagram below. The dimensions provided are the longest dimensions or your cutting dimensions prior to mitering and will be your measurements from farthest point to farthest point once you have mitered.
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Step 4
Add the Dowel Rods and S Hooks till your heart's content. My recommendation on the rails is to use 1/2″ dowel rods, cut to size and spray painted in bronze. This is likely what I will do for mine, which I will be building this afternoon along with my Mitchell Cubby Organizer.
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Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This is plan is for building the second part of this Small Media and Gaming Console inspired by Potterybarn's (allegedly) Hudson Collection!  The first portion of this project from yesterday can be found here.  We will cover the doors in just a bit, for today we are tackling the insert and the drawer!  I just adore this piece, and I plan to continue this entire collection!
We covered the first portion of this plan yesterday (found here) and this is a pretty easy build, no complicated stuff and really budget friendly!  The original costs $999…this beauty will come in under $100 from start to finish!  Just think of those savings! Wowza, you could build 8 more pieces in the collection with those savings!
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Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Saw
- Jig Saw – to carve out the hand hold for the drawer
- Kreg Jig – optional
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Lumber
- 1 – 1×2 at 6'
- 2 – 1×4 at 6'
- 1 – 1×6 at 6'
**1/2 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF @ 4'x4' If you are building this insert along with the Unit, simply purchase 2 full sheets.
- 1/4 sheet – 1/2″ Ply or MDF at 2'x2'
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Cut List
- 3 – 3/4″ Ply at 18 1/4″ x 29 1/2″ Top and Bottom Panels, Shelf
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 18 1/4″ x 20 1/4″ Side Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 29 1/2″ Cleats
- 1 – 1/2″ Ply at 15 1/2″ x 26 3/4″ Drawer Bottom
- 2 – 1×4 at 16 1/4″ Drawer Sides
- 1 -1×4 at 26 3/4″ Drawer Back
- 1 – 1×4 at 28 1/4″ Drawer Front
- 1 – 1×6 at 29 1/4″ False Front
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Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut the box panels, cleats, and shelf to size and secure the drawer slides in place on the side panels (this will make the process easier, if you do it prior to having constructed the box) using the supplied hardware and screws. Fasten the box panels together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. You can also use 2″ wood screws and glue to build this, just be sure to countersink for the most professional appearance. Fasten the cleats in place on the backside just under the top and above the bottom. This will give this added strength since we won't be fastening a back onto this insert.
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Step 2
Build your drawer. I chose to use 1×4's for the perimeter since it is easier for most people to avoid using plywood for these pieces since ensuring a straight rectangular piece can be difficult. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock to fasten the back to the sides and then fasten the sides to the front with your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. The bottom is 1/2″ ply and you will create pocket holes around the edges to fasten to the back, front, and sides of your drawer. You will set your pocket hole system for 1/2″ stock and use 1″ pocket hole screws and glue to attach.
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Step 3
Add the False Front to th. Notch out a Hand hold as shown below in the appropriate dimensions, and fasten in place from the inside using 1 1/4″ screws and glue. The Drawer Front will overhang the drawer unit by 1/2″ on each side and the bottom of the notch on the false front should be flush with the top of the drawer front.
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Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Shopping
The first stop on our Book Tour…that’s right I’m touring, right from the comfort of my own messy house (the best kind of tour, am I right?)!
I am excited to say I have been given the great honor of reviewing a few amazing books from the fine folks over at Chronicle Books! Some of you who have been with me a while, already know that I am a bit of a bookish nerd…There are just no two ways about it. That combined with my insane need to collect and hoard crafting supplies and tutorials (you should see my browser bookmark folder) makes the first stop on our Book Tour and especially exciting one (for me)!
Paper + Craft that delicious piece of work you see below…brought to us by my new fave bff’s (ok, so they have no clue who I am..but whose counting…or listening, or whatever) Minhee & Truman Cho, founders of the stationary company Paper + Cup!
The cover alone had me at hello.. Couldn’t you just die…die! So swoon worthy don’ you think? Let’s take a peak inside to see if the dream lives up to the reality (ok, so I’m going to let the cat out of the bag and IT DOES!) … Yahoo…feast your eyes on this beauty. For those of you who adore photography, crafting, hoarding, or day dreaming about photography, crafting, and hoarding…This is definitely an investment you should consider making!
I have an obsession with paper craft and art, among other things…
Of course I am drawn to any and all DIY projects for house and home. Pretty sure you all know this by now (where have you been if you don’t? we must have words…), but just in case you don’t and even if you do, to add something to the mix the I love almost equally (mentioned above) would be the collecting of supplies required for completing said DIY projects for house and home. Needless to say that the first image above, with the tray of goodies being used for making some of the beautiful paper crafts, has me heading for the door to find me some pretties and ready to get to work on giving something a try. I have a case of the Crafties…whatyagonnado?
Oh dear friends, I know how you all love a good silhouette project. Go grab a copy of this book, and get to work…and then send me a pic of what you made! Swapsies?
You will be able to make a recipe book, collect the required supplies (did I mention I have a things for this?) and make something stunning from an ingredient as simple and yet so completely elegant as paper. Surely one of man’s finest accomplishments! And now this book, which allows us to wield paper into the most amazing décor I have seen in a while…sigh…I suppose you know what I will be up to this weekend while I am finishing the build of my BED!
Showcase
I needed a table for my wireless printer, and it needed to be “light” and playful enough to fit into the play room/office.
Lumber Used
I built the cross frame table using what I had on-hand, so it’s far from perfect.
Finishing Technique
But I love it (and the fact that the blue is an OOPS bin find from Lowe’s – extra love!)
