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With school back in session, my mornings just got a little more chaotic and a lot more difficult. Why is it so hard to get out the door with young children? Is it just as difficult with girls as it is for boys, and is it difficult with most boys or just my boys? I haven't a clue… but I can tell you that where my little men are concerned, it is next to impossible to make it out of the house without being completely and utterly frustrated with one or both of them at least 1800 times. This is of course a mild exaggeration, but the circumstances are not and it leaves the potential for us to begin our day on something of a bad note, which is not my fave. Those of you who are expert in the mom guilt department like I am, can probably relate.
Blake is an early riser and so am I, which means that we don't have to worry about an alarm to wake us or having to get out of bed when all we really want to do is sleep. I would say these are likely the more common things that most kids and adults have to contend with each day, so realistically we should have that going for us. You would think that having plenty of time to wake up at your leisure and get ready for the day would be a great recipe for success and yet somehow it doesn't seem to be. So I started to think about what happens in the course of our mornings and where things tend to go awry. While I still don't completely understand my gorgeous babe, I did manage to come up with a few things that I know make him happy and energized so I set out to change the sound of our mornings and this gorgeous and smarty arty Aether Cone has been a major help.
While music may seem like an obvious choice for changing the mood of our mornings, it is helpful only to set the initial tone of things. After we hear some of the boys faves, which seem to revolve around Minecraft themed remakes at the moment, music seems to become a bit too exciting and keeps us from getting through our morning tasks in any kind of reasonable way… and so it's then that we switch gears and venture into the world of Podcasts. This has become the perfect way to get those wheels turning and keep their attention just enough to keep them from straying into the danger zone of crazy that is always lurking around every turn, but not so much that they aren't able to get fed, dressed, washed and out the door. Those of you with kids know what I mean…
These are some of my current faves to listen to with the boys //
STUFF YOU MISSED IN HISTORY CLASS // I happen to love history, but it wasn't always so.. I think this is true for many kids and this podcast gives interesting tidbits about topics you never learned in school about the people and places you did. A great way to get your kiddos interested in subjects that might otherwise seem blah.
THIS AMERICAN LIFE // A weekly public radio show and a staple on our list of 'must listen' podcasts. From Investigations to Storytelling, this show never disappoints. The House on Loon Lake is wonderful and a great one to start with.
THE NAKED SCIENTISTS // The name alone is an attention grabber for my boys and the subjects are perfect for young kiddos who are serious thinkers. With topics like 'Do Dogs Understand People' and 'Does a Frozen Body Shatter', this is bound to teach you something new about the things you always wonder in your head but don't usually say out loud.
STUFF YOU SHOULD KNOW // Exploring everything from Stonehenge to Earwax and what's the deal with crop circles…. Awesome!
RADIO LAB // A wildly diverse series of topics covered in a way that makes snake poop interesting to someone other than an 8 year old boy. Fascinating! My recent fave is Patient Zero
TED RADIO HOUR // I love to watch the TED Talks, and this is equally riveting even without the visual portion.
Once my day actually begins, which is usually after Blake is out the door for school, I like to listen to music or podcasts while I work and dabble at playing the role of Mama Bird. Since Penn still has a few more years before he starts to have an opinion on things like this, I can listen to some of the more adult podcasts when he is present – which I love. My days are so varied and might have me in the office, or a particular room that is the focus of one project or another, but the one thing that is constant is that I juggle many things at once – always. I love the fact that I can set a timer on the Aether Cone so that even if I am completely caught up in a project or a story, I won't forget about something I put in the oven and I don't have to stay within earshot of the kitchen to know when that something is finished. I even bring my Aether Cone in while I soak in the bath so I can listen in relative silence to whatever I want!
These are a few of my current faves //
THE MOTH // Wildly entertaining and I can't recommend this enough. With thousands of true stories told live in front of a live audience, ranging from emotional and heartfelt to wondrous and hysterical, all of them are entirely relatable and so completely interesting.
THRILLING ADVENTURE HOUR // Brilliant and funny – this is done in the format of an old timey radio show and has different guests that you know and love become part of the show each week. Love.
SERIAL // If you didn't jump on the Serial bandwagon – you missed the boat my friends. Luckily the boat never actually left the dock so you can jump on board anytime you like and trust when I say – you should run not walk to your phone and search for this podcast. Compelling and will keep you hanging every step of the way. You will be sad when you get to the end… not to worry though it will be back with a new season this fall.
UNDISCLOSED // A continuation of the case covered in Serial and one I am just now checking out – this aims to be pretty interesting and for those of you who were left with emptiness after Serial, perhaps a great place to pick up the trail.
I have been dabbling with a few others, but I won't give you a report back on those just yet… What have you been listening too? Anything you love so very much?
I was provided with an Aether Cone as part of my maniacal plan to reign in these crazy children of mine… but all opinions and this new found obsession are entirely my own! Thank you cute people for tuning in and supporting the brands that help bring fresh new content like this to The Design Confidential.
Showcase
Shopping
We are officially back in school around here and I don't know about you but am already mourning the death of summer vacation. When Blake is in school – I might as well be in school because it's a full time job getting him out the door and ready for each new day. While I don't have to sit in class all day, I do have a much busier schedule during the school year and I am finding myself in major need of some personal organization that will help me stay excited about each day… Otherwise you just might find me under the covers hiding from the world and everything I need to do.
This new line of products is giving me some major creative motivation and has my inner office supply hoarder going bananas for the simple beautiful style. Love.
I managed to grab one of these beauties the last time I was at Target… I haven't opened it yet, eek.
I absolutely love the bag I got for Christmas, and this one is a little less sporty but just as versatile with the option to carry it as a tote or a backpack. That is soooo helpful when you have your bag stuffed full and totally heavy.
I want this oh so badly, but that damn thing is way too pricey. I will probably get this one instead and then buy this to get the look for a lot less.
I need this… for so many reasons.
Pretty from beginning to end and filled with utter goodness in between. I never thought I would enjoy a book like this, ever – but it's my current fave!
Coming soon… and so so fabulous!
I have super dry sensitive skin so I adore oil based products for their amazing moisturizing ability and delicate cleanse. Besides doesn't love a little pick me up to their beauty regimen at the start of a new school year?
My fridge is a hot mess right now with all kinds of chaos stuck to the front and sides. These have me dreaming of a stress free and organized space.
If your summer has ended like mine has… you can still get a bit of that beachy look with this.
Plans
At long last, we have the plans for a toddler sized house bed playhouse! You all loved the twin sized version so much that I am rolling out the other requested sizes and each will have a slightly different variation in style, from the last. Hopefully this will let you choose your own adventure with this project, depending on your needs and how it will function.
Psst… In addition to the original house bed plans, we now also have plans for a twin sized house bed and a full sized version that all sit on the floor with a platform base and a chimney, as well as a toddler size bed rail that works with this plan, to help keep those little in the bed!
With all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 5 – 1×4 at 8′
- 2 – 2×4 at 8′
- 5 – 2×3 at 8′
- 1 – 2×3 at 6′
- 1 – 2×2 at 6′
- 14 – 1×4’s at 27″ – Slats
- 2 – 2×4’s at 52″ – Lower Side Rails
- 2 – 2×4’s at 27″ – Head and Foot Rails
- 3 – 2×3’s at 49″ – Center and Side Boards
- 4 – 2×3’s at 36″ – Posts
- 2 – 2×3’s at 22 3/4″ – Roof
- 2 – 2×3’s at 21 1/4″ – Roof
- 2 – 2×3’s at 47″ – Upper Side Rails
- 1 – 2×3 at 5 1/2″ – Chimney
- 1 – 2×3 at 8 1/2″ – Chimney
- 1 – 2×3 at 4 1/2″ – Chimney
- 1 – 2×2 at 47″ – Pitch Rail
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut all 6 boards to size and then bevel the 4 posts at a 45° angle, making sure to keep the length of your original cut. You will be making 2 units here and you can drill your pocket holes in the bottom rails as shown, and set your Pocket Hole Jig for 1 1/2″ material. Attach your posts to your Rails using glue and 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws. Your posts will sit with the longer edge on what will be the inside and the same side as your pocket holes.
** When you bevel, you are simply cutting your board at an angle with your board laying flat and your miter saw tilting 45° rather than being turned at a 45° angle as it would be when you miter.
Create your inner frame by cutting your boards to length and attaching them to your Head and Foot Rails. If you prefer for your slats to sit flush with the rails, secure the Center and Side Boards 3/4″ down from the top edge of the Head and Foot Rails and 1/4″ up from the bottom edge. Secure the Center and Side Boards in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ material and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Attach the center board first for ease of securing with pocket hole screws and you can place the pocket holes on the outsides of the Side Boards since they won’t be seen.
Now you will attach the 3 units you have built by securing the Side Boards to the Bottom Rails with 2″ wood screws and glue. Use your countersink drill bit to pre-drill for screws that will sit flush with your boards. Since you will secure the Side Boards directly to the Bottom Rails, you can simply glue the Head and Foot Rails to the Side Boards if you wish, but there is no need to worry about securing these with screws or pocket holes.
Fasten your slats in place using 1 1/2″ brad nails or finish nails. If you don’t have a nail gun at your disposal, you can opt to use 1 1/2″ screws, just be sure to countersink them using your countersink drill bit to pre-drill and then fasten your screws with a phillips head drill bit. The slats should fit perfectly with no spaces between them, but it would be wise to dry fit just to be sure!
Now for the fun part! This looks so much more complicated than it actually is – promise! Cut your boards to length and note that you will be creating 2 units for the pitch of your roof and that the 2 boards that form one unit are not the same length. One side is going to be 1 1/2″ longer than the other. Once you have them cut to length, bevel one end of each board at 45°. Be sure to keep the length as directed when you do this. Once you have beveled the end of each board, you will create your pitch by securing the straight cut end of one long and one short piece together. Please be sure to set the short piece to the inside edge of the longer piece as you see in the diagram.
Once you have your 2 roof units created, you can secure them to your posts using glue and 2″ wood screws, downward from the top edge of your bevel down into your posts. Be sure to countersink and pre-drill so your screws are flush.
**Note that these pieces will sit flat for beveling as well as when you secure them to create your pitch. The face of your roof boards should match that of your posts and both will have the face side of your board (the 2 1/2″ side) run the length of the bed (the longer sides) rather than the width (the shorter head and foot). This means that when you look at your bed from the side, your boards will appear slightly bigger than they do when you look at your bed from the head or foot, but all should match.
Secure the rails in place using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Cut your rails to length, noting that the top rail that runs the between the 2 roof units is a 2×2 while the Upper Side Rails are 2×3’s. The 2×3’s will sit with the face of your boards (the 2 1/2″ side) facing outward. Place pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material on either end of one face of the 2×3’s and secure to the Posts and Roof Units from the inside of your bed. Note that the top edge of your Rails will actually sit flush with the top edge of your roof board bevel. Place your pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material on either end of your 2×2 Pitch Rail and secure this sitting flush to the very top of the pitch of your Roof. Place your pocket holes on the underside of your Pitch Rail so they aren’t visible.
This last step is optional, but pretty adorable. To create a chimney, you will simply cut all 3 pieces to length, and then bevel the legs at 45°. Secure all 3 pieces together using 2″ wood screws and glue and be sure your beveled edges face the same direction and note that this chimney unit will also sit with the face of your board (the 2 1/2″ side) sitting the same way your posts and your roof sit (along the sides) with the sides of your board (the 1 1/2″ side) facing the front and back.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
Showcase
This is only my 4th project. If I can build this, you can too!
I had blue cut birch plywood for me so I could get it home in my car. I sanded it really well, using several grades of sandpaper, I stained it with kona colored stain and put it together very easily. The only trouble I had was when my daughter and I brought it from the garage into the house because it’s big, awkward and heavy. Thanks to TDC for posting these plans. Get building…you won’t be sorry.
Estimated Cost
$120.00 for screws, wood and stain.
Length of Time
15-20 hours? I’m not sure, I work on stuff when I can…and I’m slow and my garage is very disorganized which slows me down even more.
Finishing Technique
kona stain – it’s really dark – love it
Travel
It think most of the time, the best way to truly get to know a place and see what it has to offer is to quite literally get outside, explore, and wander about on foot. This is especially true for iconic beauties like Big Sur. Many of the most beautiful scenic spots can only be reached on foot, and you will actually need to walk or hike a bit to see the really breathtaking gems. That's right… it isn't enough to simply pull off at a viewpoint and get a glimpse of the ocean as it meats the coast. No, you will have to work for it and punch the clock a bit in the exercise department, but I promise it will be more than worth it. As it turns out, many of the best spots have extremely easy and short paths, are relatively suitable for children, and some even have a path that is suitable for those in wheelchairs or who have trouble traversing uneven terrain.
While the entire coast of California, from Oregon to Mexico, has amazing beauty and stunning vistas, it is frequently the stretch from Point Lobos to just south of Big Sur that is considered some of the most picturesque in all the land. You will see what I mean as we meander through my photos. Let me just say that my experience here left me thinking it's entirely possible this is one of the most beautiful places on earth – our very own little slice of tropical heaven – without being anywhere near the tropics. There is something to be said for that. The colors are mind blowing and the beauty is breathtaking and honestly this hardly does any justice to the reality. There are no words… but I will do my best to find a few that come close.
What I can do, however, is tell you that on my recent trip out there, I put in the time to find what I consider the most beautiful and iconic spots, in and around Big Sur – so that you don't have to and can rest assured you will get the most out of your time while you are visiting!
MCWAY FALLS // Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
Probably the most iconic Big Sur moment around. This beauty is the one you see in all the pictures showing Big Sur and is an absolute must on your jaunt through the area. Something to note is that the beach below McWay Falls is not accessible so while this spot is labeled as a must, you can leave your bathing suit and towels at home.
Trails // There are 3 trails that vary in distance and difficulty and all begin from one main trail head… or technically from the main parking lot for the park.
- McWay Falls to Saddle Rock – This is the trail that leads to the famous McWay Falls and is the single most notorious vista in all of Big Sur. Round trip this trail is only about 3/4 of a mile, out and back, and is an easy hike that can be done in about 30 minutes. Whether you prefer to simply see the sights or actually hike and work up a sweat, this short trek is a must and can easily be tacked onto either of the other 2 trails.
- McWay Canyon to Canyon Falls – This trail is inland through shaded forest and is also 3/4 of a mile and very easy with little elavation change. It would be great to combine this with the McWay Falls for a slightly longer hike with more varied scenery.
- Ewoldsen Trail to Canyon Falls – This trail is for the more serious and experienced hiker with a total of 4.5 miles of moderate to strenious ground to cover and 1600 feet of elevation change. What a great way to work up a sweat and experience a grotto, double waterfall and of course can and should be combined with McWay Falls to round out your experience with views of the most pristine beach you will ever see.
Info // Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is 37.4 miles south of Carmel, along Highway 1. It's relatively easy to get to and while Highway 1 has some curvy sections that will have you hanging on for dear life, the drive is otherwise simple and can easily be made in around an hour from Monterey or Carmel if you aren't staying in Big Sur itself.
Tip // Go early, it gets crowded. While there is an actual parking lot to park in, the spaces are rather limited so they have a simple 'one out, one in' process that will have you waiting 5-15 minutes to participate in. We were there on a Saturday, mid-afternoon and following a holiday and even so, the wait was virtually painless – which is good considering that parking along Highway 1 would probably put me over the edge, so I consider this a worthwhile investment for $5 and 15 minutes of my time.
I noticed a small campground near the picnic area of Saddle Rock. I am not entirely sure how to reserve those spots, but if you are the camping type… This is certainly a spot with views to die for.
BIRD ROCK // Point Lobos State Reserve
This area is home to the other most photographed spot in the region and with good reason – as you will see. It also happens to have the one of the most gorgeous beaches – ever – and not only is it accessible, it's relatively quiet and will absolutely take your breath away. If tide pools and scuba diving are more your speed, this is a great spot to find exactly that.
Trails // As with our first stop along the tour of this area, this spot has 3 trails that vary in length and difficulty and the type of scenery you will encounter.
- Bird Island Trail – This is the showstopper and you will want to add this short trek onto your overall hike if you choose to take another of the trails. Taking you past China Cove and down to Gibson Beach, this trail is one you should plan to spend a fair amount of time on, even though the actual walk itself takes only 30 minutes. Coming in at around .8 miles and having very easy terrain, the only thing you need to take into account is the moderately steep stairway leading down to Gibson Beach. Even this is well maintained and has an actual stairway with handrails so aside from having a great many steps, there isn't much to worry about.
- South Plateau / Mound Meadow Loop – A 1.6 mile loop with easy terrain, this trail builds on the Bird Island Trail, so if you want a mix of showstopping scenery and a bit more of a hike than you get from the Bird Island Trail on it's own, this is a fabulous option. Just be sure to veer off the route for a short trek to hit up Gibson Beach before you continue on… it's entirely worth it!
- South Island Trail – This path takes you in the opposite direction as the previous 2 trails, so it's worth tacking the Bird Island Trail onto this. Luckily you can do this coming or going since this trail is an easy 2 miles round trip that goes out and back rather than making a loop. This trail weaves past tide pools and Hidden Beach before making your turnabout at Sand Hill Cove to head back.
Info // The Point Lobos State Reserve is a mere 2.5 miles south of Carmel along Highway 1 and has a rather decent parking area at the far end of the Park. There is also a fair amount of roadside parking that won't put the fear of death into your mind if the park is full.
Tip // Go early, this park gets crowded by hikers and beach goers alike, not to mention it's proximity to Monterey and Carmel makes this a natural draw for locals and vacationers alike with it's easy access.
I hope you have a chance to experience this place. It might be the most beautiful place I have had the pleasure of visiting and should definitely be on your bucket list if it isn't already!
Studio / Travel
If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen a glimpse or two from a fabulous event I was lucky enough to attend in Sonoma last week. For those of you who aren't so familiar with California – this is the heart of wine country with a deep history, some of the world's finest wine, and views that are vast and stunning. It was only fitting that Michael's Craft Stores chose this place (seriously, you need to see this place!) to host the first ever Makers Summit and to celebrate the Maker Movement with 50 of the finest Maker Minds in the nation. I am honored to be a part of this group of bloggers and left this event with my heart full and feeling so inspired to tackle new projects that I have been wanting to try for a very long time.
If you are like me and have the need to create and stretch your skills in new and exciting ways, you are in luck because for most of August, all of you will get to experience the amazing craft classes we took while we were at the Summit. Watercolor, Weaving, Paper Flowers and Image Transfers (this last one has some particularly mind blowing techniques that I never knew about) all online to do at your leisure and all for FREE on Michaels.com until 8/22. This should give you a feel for the crazy amazing talent we were exposed to in beautiful wine country – spoiled rotten is what we were, that much is sure.
If you are curious about all 50 of this year’s Makers (I know… 50?!?), you can check out each of our blogs and bios here! Follow along throughout the year and feel free to create projects with us by sharing on Instagram using #MadeWithMichaels
I wonder if you know which gal I am in this group photo above? I will give you a hint: I'm kneeling down but virtually in a row of my own! I hope these images inspire you to give these free Creativebug classes a try. I can't say enough about the talented gals who taught them. I will be brushing up on several of them throughout the month as well, since a couple of them are fairly advanced techniques and as it turns out I am not that great at watercolor – or paper flower making. Really it's more that I am not very good at wielding the flower tape. Eek, that stuff is sticky and tricky – not an easy combo!
Images by Rayan Turner for The Design Confidential / Michael's Craft Stores / Caitlin of The Merrythought / Shannon of Eat. Sleep. Make. (Thanks girls!) To see all the other recaps… check out the links below!
DIY / Entertaining / Studio
We are all about Halloween here at Casa de TDC. But, we have a couple of cutie boys who are still rather young. So while this little mama likes a bit of the macabre when decorating for this festive occasion… these boys of mine still need a more toned down version of spooky decor and so I give you my latest idea and the spooky skeleton pumpkin. Spooky yet not spooky, if you know what I mean.
I know these pumpkins might seem difficult or time consuming, but with one super helpful tool, this project is really easy and goes quickly.
MATERIALS //
Cream Colored Craft Pumpkins
Versa-Tool – You can use any knife or other cutting and carving tool, but the hot knife feature on this tool is amazing for this!
Black Permanent Marker
Using a pencil, I lightly drew my bones on the pumpkin. This is better if it’s imperfect and looks more realistic so don’t worry about your drawing skills.
I thought this would work best if it looked vaguely like the bones in a hand so I drew out a series of segmented bones, each about 1 1/2 inches in length, end to end, and each looking a bit like a dog bone.
I did this down every other section of the pumpkin stripes (no idea what these are called, but I’m sure you know what I mean, right?!). I started just below the stem and stopped about 2 inches from the center of the very bottom. The larger the base of your pumpkin, the more space you leave empty at the bottom and you will see why in a minute.
You won’t outline your bones with your marker yet, like you see above, but this image does a better job of showing you what your bones should look like and where they should be.
While you are sketching your bones onto your pumpkin carcass, you can let your versa-tool heat up because it will take a few minutes to get hot enough. While it isn’t a requirement that you use this particular tool, I certainly recommend some sort of hot knife action because it makes this portion much easier and faster.
When you are ready to carve your pumpkin, you will be carving the negative space between your bone stripes (seriously need to find a better description for this, but whatever). You will carve this like you are cutting melon, kind of… Start at the base of your stem alongside one side of one of your bone stripes and carve down along that edge making sure to curve in and out with the edges of your bones. You won’t carve in between them and instead you will just indent a little bit at the base of each bone and then curve back out at the top of the next. Continue to carve in and out all the way down to the base of your last bone. You will stop carving after you curve in slightly at the base of the last bone in your stripe and then remove your knife and move back up to the top where you began.
Starting from your starting point you will carve over along the base of your stem till you reach the top of the first bone in the next bone stripe. Continue carving that edge of that bone stripe until you get to the bottom edge of the bottom bone and then remove your knife and bring it up to the opposite side of the top edge of the top bone in your strip. Carve down that edge, stopping at the bottom and then bridge the gap just as you did before by starting at your starting point and carving along the stem until you get to the top edge of the next bone stripe. Do this all the way around.
Once you have finished this, you will flip your pumpkin and work on the bottom. You will finish off your carving by treating the bottom just as you did the top and start at your end point on one edge of your bone stripe. Carve over the gap till you get to the edge of the next bone stripe. Then remove your knife and move to the opposite side of that bone stripe and carve over the gap until you reach the opposite edge of the next bone stripe. Do this all the way around until you have created something of a base between your bone stripes. Re-cut any sections that need a bit more cutting and then carefully pop out your pumpkin slices.
You can clean up the edges anywhere where things look a tad crazy, then using your permanent marker, outline each individual bone in your bone stripes. Add an led candle or some creepy spiders if you like and call this beauty done!
To kick off fall in your own home, visit Michaels.com and check out the variety of craft pumpkins available – there are more colors, shapes and sizes than you can imagine! If you’re looking for something a little bit different, Michaels recently started selling these fun half pumpkins, perfect for a fall décor wall mount version of this project or any other fall project! Love!
This project brought to you in partnership with Michaels and as part of my ongoing partnership with Michaels as a Michaels Maker! Thank you for supporting the fab folks who help bring new a spooky projects like this to The Design Confidential. Heart you guys!!
An InLinkz Link-up
DIY / Home
I had the pleasure of giving an Anna Griffin Heat Transfer Machine a bit of a test run recently and I have to admit I find myself thinking of things to add foil to all of the sudden… It is essentially a personal gilding machine and was super easy to use. While I initially made a project that was multi-step and a bit more labor intensive – for a simple art print the process would be no more than print and then foil… or glitter… this machine can do both. So easy and fast, which is always my fave even though I rarely find myself doing simple projects, eek.
No worry of sticking your shiny contact paper on straight or the mess from traditional adhesive and gold foil so yahoo for that – you got this! Speaking of how 'you got this', I made you a couple of free printables (download link below)which are perfect on their own or to use with the Minc Foil and Glitter Machine. The images are sized at standard 8×10 so the actual text portion is sized appropriately for the machine and can be printed on 8.5×11″ paper with a laser printer if you don't have 8×10 paper.
PRINTABLES // You Got This / WANDER
Ok so now let's get down to business with this project. You might remember that I recently finished a bit of an office update and if you look closely at those images, you will see a gorgeous brassy logo perched high above the live edge shelves… It is nearly impossible to capture the actual beauty of this with it's reflective quality, but take my word for it – it's good!
So if you want to make your own floating text or any fabulous art print you desire, the steps below will show you how simple it is. For an art print, you can skip the last several steps…
I set up something of a gilding assembly line to create this project since I was planning on foiling quite a few letters – 10 to be exact.
You will want to turn your machine on and set it for the type of paper you will be foiling. It will take a minute to heat up so while it's doing it's thing you can pull out your foil sheets and get them ready for size and cut. I chose the gold because, duh… gold… but the bundle comes with 5 different colors of foil including copper and silver so you can choose whichever works best for you.
For the minc machine to work, you will need something to foil that has either been printed on a laser printer using toner or is made from the special toner sheets included in the Heat Transfer Kit. I don't happen to have a laser printer, so I started by using my Cricut to cut the letters for my logo from the toner sheets. I don't know why but I kind of love to watch this cute machine do it's cutting. It's weirdly satisfying. Now I feel the same way about this gilding machine…
You can also cut the toner sheets with any die cut machine or even scissors so not to worry if you don't have a specialty cutting machine, it is easier but certainly not a requirement.
Ps… If you don't have a Cricut and you wish you did – Get free shipping at Cricut with code AUGSHIP
Once you have your art, you will cut your foil sheets down to a size that is about 1/4″ larger than your art – all the way around.
You will have 3 different sizes of transfer folders included in the bundle and they differ by length so you want to use the size that is closest to the size of your artwork (apparently I didn't snap a photo of this, but you can see the folder two images below).
The instructions suggest running foil projects that use toner sheets through the machine twice, so that is precisely what I did.
Isn't it so pretty? I am not sure you can tell actually, but seriously it is!
Just peel away the excess and it peels off leaving your gilded art looking fabulous. If you are foiling a print, then you would be done and you wouldn't have had to worry about cutting in the first step so the entire process would literally be about 5 minutes or less – start to finish. But… if you are wanting to create a floating something or other, then you will pull out that handy Cricut machine again and cut your art all over again on either foam board or heavy chipboard. I happened to have heavy chipboard on hand so I went with that, but foam would be easier and lighter.
Because of the nature of chipboard (and also foam, perhaps) it will need to cut several times to get all the way through, but again… weirdly satisfying, so there is that…
Then you simply need to marry the two matching pieces together using a spray adhesive or some double sided tape. To hang the letters, I simply used a straight edge and Command Strips. Removal will be a snap and they will stay the course without falling down until I want them to!
I love having this bit of custom floating art in this space. Since I essentially run a full time business, but rarely see the world outside these doors, it's nice to have a bit of a professional office feel without leaving my world of style behind. Since completing this part of the office I have been much more inclined to saunter down to this side of the house when I am working on a project and need to focus or keep my crafty mess contained. Now I just need to finish the other 3 walls in the TDC World Headquarters… we shall see how long that takes me to do – I am guessing 8 months or more with the way things have been going lately! Yikes.
So what say you? Are you so excited about a personal gilding machine? The sky is the limit on your gorgeous creations…
This project was created in part with HSN and the Anna Griffin Heat Transfer Machine. All crazy town is 100% my own, as per the usual. Ps… This is the first ever 6″ Minc Machine launching at HSN, and they have partnered with Anna Griffin to combine her timeless, elegant designs with this cutting edge technology. Pretty cool, eh?
Plans
Is it hot enough out there for you? Treat the kiddos to some stylish shade provided by this Kid’s Double Chaise with matching awning! Yahoo, how adorable is this beauty?
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 18 – 1×4 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 4 – 1×4 at 12” – Legs
- 2 – 1×4 at 59-3/4” – Chaise Sides
- 2 – 1×4 at 45-3/4” – Chaise Ends
- 1 – 1×4 at 45-3/4” – Frame End
- 2 – 1×4 at 34” – Frame Centers
- 16 – 1×4 at 47-1/4” – Slats
- 6 – 1×2 at 2-1/2” – Back Rest Stops
- 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Back Rest Stop
- 1 – 1×2 at 44-1/4” – Head Support
- 1 – 1×2 at 43-3/4” – Back Rest Frame End
- 4 – 1×2 at 20” – Back Rest Frame Centers
- 6 – 2×2 at 15” – Back Rest Sides
- 3 – 2×2 at 13” – Back Rest End
- 1 – 2×2 at 45-1/4” – Long Back Rest End
- 4 – 1×4 at 48” – Awning Posts
- 2 – 1×4 at 50-3/4” – Awning Ends
- 2 – 1×4 at 33-1/2” – Awning Sides
- 2 – 1×4 at 32” – Awning Sides
- 3 – 1×4 at 52-1/4” – Awning Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Legs, Chaise Ends, Chaise Sides, Frame End, and Frame Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Chaise Ends, Frame End, and Frame Centers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Legs to the Chaise Sides with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Cut the pieces for the lower Slats. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Back Rest Supports. Position the Supports as shown and attach with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws or Brad Nails. The Back Rest Support will be 1/2” from the bottom of the Chaise Side.
Cut the Head Support. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Head Support. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. The Head Support will be 1/2” from the bottom of the Chaise End.
Cut the pieces for Back Rest Frame End and Back Rest Frame Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in one end of the Back Rest Frame Centers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Slats. Position the Slats as shown, 1/4” apart. Attach the Slats to the Back Rest Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Place the Slat/Back Rest assembly on the Chaise as shown. Position so that there is a consistent 1/4” gap between the lower group of Slats and the upper group of Slats. Position the small hinges as shown and install per the manufacturer’s recommendations. After installation, fold the Back Rest over so that it lays flat on the lower end of the Chaise.
Cut the Back Rest Sides and Ends. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Back Rest Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Lastly, position the small hinges as shown and install per the manufacturer’s recommendations.
To position the Back Rest, fold out the Back Rest Side/Ends assembly and place the Long Back Rest End in one of spaces between the Back Rest Supports.
Cut the pieces for the Awning Ends, Awning Sides, and Posts. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Awning Ends. Assemble the Awning Ends to the top Awning Sides with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Posts to the top Awning Sides and to the bottom Awning Sides with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Awning Slats. Attach the Awning Slats to the Awning Ends and Awning Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Cut the piece for the Cloth Awning. Turn under each side of the Cloth Awning 1/2”, iron, turn over another 1/2”, and iron again. To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges. For the Awning Windows, cut out the window as shown and sew a zigzag stitch or apply fabric glue to prevent the fabric from unraveling. Secure the Cloth Awning to the Awning Frame with sticky back Velcro.
Want to do more with this project? Attach clear vinyl on the window cutouts or attach wheels to the bottom of the Awning Posts!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
Design / Home / Studio
How would you #spinthatstyle? Last month the fine folks from Porch + hayneedle.com asked me to put my personal spin on a living room space using the room below as inspiration and products from hayneedle.com. The inspiration space reads as Mid Century meets Neo-Traditional and has gorgeous architectural details, texture and fabulous modern touches throughout. It leans toward a relatively neutral color scheme with warm wood tones, shades of cream and gray, with black and white abstract art pieces, and an occasional pop of pink and gold in a few of the accessories.
By keeping the color scheme relatively neutral with minimal accent colors, the design for this space focuses on the materials and finishes of the pieces themselves and the furnishings remain simple with clean lines and solid colors.
My space lacks architectural detail of this nature, but there is no reason why a similar feel can't be achieved, regardless. Through the use of a color scheme that is slightly more bold and furnishings that provide a level of interest where the space itself would otherwise be lacking, I was able to put my personal spin on the inspiration style in a way that is decidedly more eclectic but entirely fitting to my personality.
To see where we started with this space, check out the living room portion in this article. It has essentially stayed exactly like that since I updated the art back in December of last year.
And now… It is decidedly more bold and absolutely more modern and I managed to keep many of my vintage pieces in this space since they are from a similar era as many of the details in the inspiration room. Yahoo for that, not to mention it's the only room where my boys don't maul everything on a daily basis, so it's a great place to put the pieces that I want to see, but that probably shouldn't be jumped on and crashed into.
All of the items in this space were things I already had, except for the items that I chose from Hayneedle to help bring a bit of the inspiration room into my room.
While my space is much less neutral and a lot more bold, I stayed true to the textural layers and basic colors along with a similar time period for my pieces in comparison to what is found in many of the inspiration room details. Using only a few new items, I transformed this room entirely and basically shopped my own home for the rest! This is certainly a testament to the fact that you don't need to spend like crazy and buy custom pieces to make changes that you love.
Naturally I had to up the ante where pattern is concerned since I wasn't working with that fabulous fireplace and wood paneling. All in all, I adore how this space turned out and I will be leaving it as is until the next time I need to rearrange things – if I'm lucky this won't be till the holidays… then again you just never know!
To see how this space was interpreted by my fabulous gal pals from the DIY Playbook and the Blissful Bee – check out the article One Room 3 Ways over on Porch! I love how different each space is and that each of us had an entirely different take on the inspiration space along with different pieces to work with as a jumping off point. These two things alone result in amazingly different outcomes and that is pretty fabulous!
This project was created in partnership with Porch and hayneedle.com. Thank you for supporting those folks who help bring fresh new content like this to The Design Confidential. I heart you guys!
Design
I have something of a major obsession happening with small but chic rectangular pools. Naturally, I have spent a fair share of time dreaming about how to make this happen in real life. I'm not entirely sure this is even a remote possibility, but for now, I am attempting to figure out how it might be…
Many of these pools are very small and that suits me well. Regardless of size, every single pool here is visually stunning and perfectly designed. It just goes to show that good things come in small packages sometimes… I might even love a rectangular wading pool, just deep enough for me to float. If you have a thing for small but chic pools too, I have an entire pinterest board filled with gorgeous poolside inspiration! Go crazy…
IMAGES // 1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // 7 // 8 // 9 // 10
