Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Dining Room Moodboard
07.29.11
It’s finally done, and I think you will love it!…This room presented a challenge in that it is visually connected to the Living Room yet is a separate room with a separate purpose. While I love the plan we did for her Living Room it would be a bit monotonous to continue the same exact style into her Dining Room. That being said, having her Dining Room stand out like a sore thumb isn’t exactly high on my list of jobs well done, either.
No, what we need here is a complimentary design plan that isn’t too matchy matchy with her Living Room.
Let’s take a peak at her current room:
Here is the concept behind this color scheme…
The color scheme in her Living Room was very much about the shades of green in medium tones with white, black, and brown as the anchor colors. Well this room is just a smidge different in that I am still focusing on shades of green and yes there are a few medium toned items here, but the majority of the green is focused on the opposite ends of the spectrum nearing bolder darker more mustardy greens and lighter more silvery sages (spell check keeps telling me my color descriptions don’t exist…well I shall just beg to differ!).
Also rather than the brown being so prominent I am going to recommend she add a medium to dark gray. It still compliments but it adds a bit of individuality to this room. I am recommending she paint her accent wall which is currently brown to a gray somewhere in the range of the colors listed below:
Paint for Accent Wall: Behr (any brand will work, they just have an easy online center): Puddle, Gray Area, or Granite Boulder.
Let’s talk about the items I have chosen:
1. These window treatments are bold, very dramatic…yep I LOVE them! However, it really isn’t necessary that they are these exact panels (especially since these beauties cost a pretty penny). The idea is that she put up a panel that has a dramatic pattern with a white background. this could be a white and gray fabr, white and green, white and black, it would all work well but definitely something with this mustardy green color would be my preference here.
2. Loving this print that was part of the inspiration for the Playroom Design Dilemma One of my favorite aspects of this is that she can either purchase it here, or she can easily make her own using white card stock and a beige or mustard green color paint and some plant life from her yard. Graphic prints really look good almost always and it doesn’t really matter what the subject is. She can use this tutorial for printing details: Spring Garden Pillow Project
The artwork next to it is fabulous and can be purchased at Ballard Designs. Any artwork she likes with these colors will be amazing her on this shelf. I encourage the attempt at creating art yourselves folks…It really isn’t the subject that matters its the color composition, and you can get creative by mixing the colors ofyour room in abstract patterns..as long as you don’t make mud (we all remember finger painting in our youth and what happens when you get too crazy with the mixing) you should be fine. Unless you color scheme is similar to mud in which case you are fine either way!
3. I couldn’t resist these apples to bring a bit of those medium tones into the room. A little bold statement fitting for a place of eating!
Also these artichokes..just perfect in a room like this since they are green!
4. Simple Floating Shelf Display…yep I did these plans this morning and they are a snap to build! Perfect for her newly begun milk glass collection…
5. I wanted something substantial in size here but that would bring a bit of ambiance to the space. These hurricane type lanterns are fabulous but any other large candle holding object that is black would work well also…like these Mason Lanterns
6. I decided that her best option would be to entertain with sage colored dishes…I know, I’m obsessive about design, I am trying to dictate what she eats with…what can I say, would that be amazing! This option is from Potterybarn , but I just know that Target or even a discount store (I saw mint colored dishes at my local dollar store the other day) would have several pieces more affordable
7. The Belgard Cabinet you might remember from her Living room Design Plan. This is an area where I chose to tie the rooms together just a bit. Since the buffet and the media cabinet are along the same wall, I figure this helps it not look dysfunctional…
8. Urns and Ferns…a perfectly green addition to the top of the buffet. The link I provided leads to a post I did outlining affordable options for urns and ferns…this particular image in the Mood Board is my actually urn and fern that sits atop my own buffet (also in my banner). I purchased the Urn from Target and the Faux Fern from Walmart. I just love that I can’t kill it!
9. I showed a bench she can build herself, that would be fabulous as seating along one side of her table if she wanted to switch thing up a bit. The chairs she has now, will actually work well, so this is really just an option that is available to her.
This rug is from Ikea and has a fabulous price tag
10. The same goes for this slipcovered Parson chair look alike. This one is from Z Gallerie and would be great as the arm chairs of the table even though they dont’ have arms…I just really mean at either end of the table. Ikea sells a look alike, almost identical to this chair for less than a third of the price! I guess they also sell a version that does have arms, but that just is’nt quite as much fun!
11. Now the items I have as the centerpiece are a bit pricier than I prefer, and DO NOT at this point have a knock off or a very fabulous stand in, but still they are oh so fabulous, maybe they might be a splurge! One is allowed, is it not? I suppose if she just purchased 2 of the smaller size it would only be $44 for the 2…not bad really.
12. This art was in the Mood Board I did that was the inspiration for her rooms overall…I think she would just love it, but I also think she could attempt to smear a bit of paint on a canvas in similar colors and it would be fabulous! It really isn’t as scary as it seems, you just have to dive right in, head first!
13. This was the inspiration picture for this room, from Ballard Designs. The Framed print, the chandelier and the green dinnerware on the table are amazing. For her lighting in this room, that chandelier is a wonderful option, however it is likely pricey. She can very easily use a chandelier from Ikea and add the shades…or not, and it would still be amazing!
Here are some other great options some more pricey than others…
She is going to be one busy gal for a bit until these rooms are finished!
Free Plans for Building a Wooden Wonderworld Jolly Roger Push Toy
07.29.11
I really did a lot of searching before deciding on a push toy to draw plans for. I wanted it to be heavy enough, but not too heavy, cute, but not to girly or boyish, and perhaps to serve another purpose along with being a push toy…Tall order, eh?
And then I found it, and it was adorable…and also seemed extremely easy to build…except that it requires a bit of sewing (or non-sewing with the trusty bottle of fabric glue, if you are on my team). Still, I thought all of you are such creative and crafty geniuses that this will be a snap for you! We are going to do this in 2 parts so that I can dedicate a post to creating the pouch for those of us who aren't as talented with those sewing machines that just don't seem to follow directions like a power tool. Perhaps we are missing out on the secret handshake or some sort of password that let's us wield that very special power over those machines. I cannot say for sure. But, I can promise that my no-sew plans version be a snap for those of you who have been admitted to the sewing machine wielding club…and for the rest of us, we shall be able to muddle through it as well!
For those of you who would like to see the original in all it's cuteness here is the link or so that you can fashion the fabric portion of this project…and also for those of you who prefer to purchase, you can by simply following the link as well!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Jig Saw
Lumber
- 1/4 Sheet 3/4″ Plywood or 2' x 4'
- 3/4″ Dowel Rod
- 1/2″ Dowel Rod
- 1 – 1×4 at 6' (or less if you can)
Materials
- Drill bit 5/8″ or 1/8″ larger in diameter than the dowels you plan to use for your wheels.
- 4 Wooden Wheels or you can create your own using a 1×4, you want them sized about 3″ in diameter.
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies – This should be non toxic paint, Low VOC or Water Based Dyes only…
Cut List
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 15 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ Panels
- 3 – 3/4″ Dowels at 11″
- 2 – 1/2″ Dowels at 13 1/2″ Axles
- 4 – 1×4 at 3 or 3 1/2″ circles
Instructions
**This plan is a push toy only. If your children are still learning to walk and you are hoping to use something like this…this plan is not adequate in it's current state to keep from tipping or rolling away without them. There are some alterations you might make to allow it to be walker worthy, but I prefer not to advise you much on this matter since it is a fairly decent liability! For those kiddos who are walking but not quite professional at it, consider adding a “breaking” mechanism that uses a vinyl or wooden screw to slow the wheels by tightening or loosening it, take a peak at the link to the original for an example of this!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Right Click on these templates and either Save to Computer or Send them to print. You will want to print A on legal sized paper at full scale, with landscape orientation, and B and C will print on letter sized paper at full scale. This is why they look out of proportion below, it's simply a scale thing!
The image is appropriately sized, so you should be able to simply send to print and choose the proper paper size and direction, and away you go. You will need to align all 3 templates to create the full panel.
You will want to cut the shape of these panels out and then trace the shape using a pencil onto your plywood panels. Note: the exact shape isn't really that important. What is important is that both your panels are as closely matched as possible, even that you can fix with the rails..Don't get too hung up on this step!
Using your Jig Saw, simply carve around the shape. Use one panel to create the second panel. This ensures you have a matching pair. To sand and smooth edges, clamp the 2 panels together and sand, this just further ensures you will have a match pair!
Template A will print on Legal Sized Paper, B and C will print on Letter Sized Paper!
Step 2
Cut your rails to size, countersink and fasten using 2″ Screws. To create the hole for the Wheel Axles, you will want to use a 5/8″ Drill bit so you have room for your 1/2″ dowel rod to turn. The board across the bottom is optional, but provides a bit of extra weighting and an area for your fabric bin to rest on. Or this can also perhaps be a cute little seat for a teddy bear or dolly!
The wheel axles will not be fastened to the panels at all, they will simply rest in the hole you create.
Step 3
To create your wheels, simply use a circular object to create a 3 or 3 1/2″ wheel, clamp together and sand to ensure equal size and shape. You will add a depth collar or piece of tape to your 1/2″ drill bit at the 1/4″ mark and create a hole in your circular piece that is 1/4″ deep and 1/2″ in diameter. This will house your wheel axle (1/2″ dowel rod) and should be a tight fit. You may need to use a mallet or something to hammer it down onto the rod. Be sure to glue the dowel rod into the wheel to keep that little guy snug and tight. I recommend, putting one wheel on the axle, then threading the axle through the panels, then attach the other wheel.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Sweet Hearts for your Sweetheart
07.29.11
Heart shaped crafts, décor, and even found in nature…love is abound and definitely abundant. Spread the love whether it’s a heart shaped holiday or not, it just might do you some good. As they say…what goes around comes around, so… from me to you, XOXO!
Sources
Images via Pinterest…original sources and project tutorials (for those images that have them) can be found on my Pinterest Sweet Hearts Board
My Tomato Surprise
07.28.11
The spring brought an unexpected surprise to my garden! A glorious cherry tomato plant decided to grace us with it’s presence and frankly I was a bit floored when it did because I simply can’t put my finger on exactly how it happened.
I planted one zillion seeds last year from The Dinner Garden, as some of you might remember, and only 2 things actually grew…until now. Truthfully I’m not sure if this was from that round of seeds or if it may have been a stray from an Elmo plant with me gardening set my mom got for Monster Mash last year. Again those were planted last spring and nothing happened. I thought the birds had done a number on my seeds and had so graciously rid the garden of them, but now I wonder if perhaps they simply have a much longer germination period than I assumed? Not sure… but whether a late bloomer or a stow away from a bird this year, I couldn’t be more excited because they are so perfect and so tasty! I can’t think of anything better than walking outside and picking a few tomatoes for whatever meal I’m making at that moment! It’s just so fabulous and totally convenient! I think a little yahoo for Mother Nature is in order!
Any surprises ever pop up in your garden and do you find them just as fabulous…or are they generally more of the pesky variety?
Cutting Edge Curtains
07.28.11
I need curtains in every room in my house! Truly! So I decided that instead of footing that hefty bill, I might try my hand at making some of my own!
Materials:
Fabric
DecoArt Fabric Painting Medium
DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paints
Ultra Fine Roller or Stippling Brush (though for a large panel you may want a roller or you will be at it forever!)
I found a bolt of White Muslim at my local craft and fabric store and it happened to be on sale for around $15 for the entire 15 yard bolt! Can I get a yahoo?
Since the curtains I was working on were for my Monster Mash’s room, I kept them simple and made them on the less wide side of the spectrum. Blocking light is not what I was going for, and these were going to serve more of a decorative purpose. I measured out 96” and since my fabric was 44” wide, I simply cut the panel in half lengthwise so that I had 2 – 22” x 96” panels which worked out perfectly for the particular stencil I was using!
I chose an oversized houndstooth patterned stencil and wanted to print them in a pale gray color. I didn’t have that color so I made my own!
I started with a small 2oz. bottle of the DecoArt Fabric Painting Medium. The instructions suggest a 2:1 ratio of paint to fabric medium so I measured out a tad less then 4 oz of white paint.
To get the gray color I wanted I ultimately dripped in 86 drops of black and mixed that potion on up!
I taped my fabric to the table (glass so it easily wipes clean, but if you are working on another surface material you should prepare properly using plastic or cardboard to protect) and then taped my Cutting Edge Stencil to the fabric and the table as well. Using my roller brush I began at the top and ONLY rolled in a downward motion. I did not use a back and forth or up and down motion. One direction works best so as not to have spillover (or under as the case may be) or paint spread under the stencil itself, and also keeps the stencil from moving around while you work.
I taped my fabric to the table (glass so it easily wipes clean, but if you are working on another surface material you should prepare properly using plastic or cardboard to protect) and then taped my Cutting Edge Stencil to the fabric and the table as well. Using my roller brush I began at the top and ONLY rolled in a downward motion. I did not use a back and forth or up and down motion. One direction works best so as not to have spillover (or under as the case may be) or paint spread under the stencil itself, and also keeps the stencil from moving around while you work.
I do not happen to know a darn thing about ironing, but I managed to get this done without burning, breaking, or ruining anything so I think it’s safe to assume you can too even if you don’t know how! I set the iron to a setting of 4 on my iron and followed the instructions to heat set for 30 seconds. To do this I simply moved my iron in a circular manner over a section of 4 little houndstooth thingys (no clue what you call them?) for 30 seconds or a bit more to account for the moving about. Then a gentle wash in the washing machine followed by a tumble dry and that is it! So simple I could hardly believe it! I will absolutely do this again and again until I have curtained the whole place! Yahoo
Free Woodworking Plans to Build an RH Inspired Printmaker's Sideboard Dresser
07.28.11
When I saw this piece in my Restoration Hardware Catalog, I knew I had to have it, had to HACK it, and wouldn't be able to think about any other pieces until I finished it. Use this piece as a Dresser or a Sideboard and it will be amazing either way.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
** Saw – Optional, Table Saw, Miter Saw or Circular Saw, something that will allow you to make a bevel cut running the length of the board for trim pieces.
** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but will have many unsightly attachments (make sure you countersink to prevent this as much as possible if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System) for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one. This project in particular will benefit from hidden fastening.
Lumber
**Option 2: Add 1 additional 3/4″ Sheet of Ply
**Option 3: Add 14 – 1×3 at 6' or 7 – 1×3 at 12'
- 4 – 3/4″ Sheet of Plywood (4'x8')
- 2 – 1/2″ Plywood (4'x8')
- 4 – 2×3 at 8'
- 2 – 2×3 at 6'
- 5 – 2×2 at 8' (or if you can find them 4 at 8' and 1 at 6')
- 3 – 1×3 at 8'
- 6 – 1×3 at 10'
- 2 – 1×2 at 10'
- 1 – 1×2 at 6'
Materials
**Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/4″ Coarse Thread Pocket Hole Screws (PHS) and 2 1/2″ Coarse Thread PHS if using a softer wood specie (substitute with 1 1/2″ Fine Thread for Hardwood).
- 3″ Screws
- 2″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ Finish Nails (you can use Screws if you don't have a nailer and can't use a finish nail set well, if your life depended on it…like me)
- 12 – 16″ Side Mount Drawer Slides
- 12 – Drawer Pulls in a style of your choice. the inspiration piece uses this variety below in a Rubbed Bronze
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 88 1/2 x 17 3/4″ (Bottom & Top)
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 87 1/2 x 27 1/2″ (Back)
6 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 1/2 x 17″ (Side Panels & Dividers)
9 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 x 17″ (Shelves)
8 – 2×3 at 32 1/2″ (Legs)
2 – 2×3 at 91″ (Tops of Frame)
4 – 2×3 at 17 3/4″ (Lower Stretchers)
15 – 2×2 at 27″ (Cross Bars – Frame)
6 – 1×3 at 17 3/4″ (Trim).. if Mitering. If not then 4 – 1×3 at 17 3/4″ and 2 – 1×2 at 17 3/4″
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 29 x 17 3/4″ (False Side Panels)
12 – 1/2″ Ply at 24 1/2 x 15″ (Drawer Bottoms)
6 – 1×3 at 24 1/2″ (Top Drawer Front and Back)
6 – 1×3 at 16 1/2″ (Top Drawer Sides)
21 – 1×3 at 26 3/4″ (Top Drawer Face, Bottom Drawer Faces)
9 – 1×2 at 26 3/4″ (Bottom Drawer Faces)
** Option 2 (see step 8)
3 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 x 17 3/4″ (Top Inserts)
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 1/4 x 17 3/4″ (Side Inserts)
** Option 3 (see step 8)
21 – 1×3 at 27″
14 – 1×3 at 27 1/4″
Instructions
If you can use reclaimed wood for any or all of the outside of this piece, it will really add something to it. If you can't find reasonably priced reclaimed wood, and you still want the look, see my Reclaimed Wood tutorial, it has instructions for creating the look.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Read more at https://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2010/08/build-it-plans-printmakers-sideboard#fk5TrcvOGVzHylwo.99
Step 1
Build your Box: Use 2″ Screws and Glue or Use your 1 1/4″ PHS if you are a Kreg Owner. Build each Compartment (there will be 3) prior to fastening to the Back and Bottom. This will make attaching the Shelves easier (or possible). When you have completed each compartment, fasten to the bottom and back leaving a 1″ space between them. The Bottom will be 1″ longer than the rest of the box or 1/2″ longer on either side. Fasten the top to the Back, Sides and Dividers after you have finished with the steps above. It will also be 1″ longer than the overall length of the box.
Then Attach the top.
Step 2
Build your Frame. This will really benefit from using a Kreg Jig by giving it added strength and hiding unsightly connections, not to mention making certain connections easy to accomplish. Use the 2 1/2″ PHS if you are using a Kreg Jig. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, use 3″ Screws for fastening the Top and Legs together, and 1 1/4″ Screws at an angle from the Leg into the Cross Bars, from the inside.
Back Side, Front Frame, respectively:
Step 3
Attach the Lower Stretchers connecting the Front and Back Frame: Use 3″ Screws if you aren't using a Kreg Jig, if you are using one..stick to your 1 1/2″ PHS. These should be placed 3 3/4″ from the bottom of the Legs and the top will fall 3/4″ below the top of the Bottom Cross Bars.
Step 4
Set the Box into the Frame. The Bottom of the Box should sit in 1 1/4″ from the Outside edge of the Frame on both sides. Fasten the Box to the Stretchers, Legs, and Tops of the Frames all along the length of the Unit. Use 2″ Screws.
Step 5
Fasten the False Side Panels to the Outside Bottom Stretchers as well as the Top and Bottom Box Panels. Use 1 1/4″ Screws or Finish Nails for this step.
Add your Trim to the Top and Sides. If you are able to miter, then use 1×3 boards for your trim and miter the length to create a seamless trim that wraps the top and sides. If you aren't able to Miter, use a 1×3 on the top and a 1×2 on the side, fill the seam with wood filler and sand to erase the obvious line between the two. Add the trim to the top in the same position as your legs.
Side Wrapped Trim, Top Trim:
Step 7
Build the Drawers: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and fasten the Drawer Face on from the inside of the Drawer Front. If you are using reclaimed wood (or even you aren't, you will want to alternate the direction of the grain on your Face boards for the bottom drawers. This will highlight the interest and add to the overall look. The bottom Faces are comprised of 2 – 1×3's separated by a 1×2. Use a 16″ Side Mount Drawer Slide to attach.
Top, Bottom Drawers:
Step 8
Below there are 3 possible methods for finishing out this piece. You can decide which you prefer…Use Finish nails and Glue to attach any additional pieces.
Option 1 – Leave the piece as is upon completion of the Drawers,
Option 2 – Fill depressed areas with Plywood inserts,
Option 3 – Fill Depressed areas with 1×3 Boards: (this appears to be most similar to the inspiration piece).
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Easy DIY Abstract Landscape Painting
07.28.11
I would like to begin this post by saying that I am not a painterly sort of artist, at least not the kind required for this sort of project…so, that being said, who cares! I thought I would take you along with me on my journey to create an abstract landscape painting. The good, the bad, and the ugly…. I hope you give something like this a try, especially if you have always wanted to (like me) and have just never sat down to try!
Supplies:
STRYOFOAM – I used 3 – 12”x 36” panels
Sandpaper
DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paints (I used almost 20 different colors, including the several of the new colors: Coral Blush, Purple Wave, Sea Glass, and Mulberry)
Paint Brush (one you are comfortable with, I use a 1”)
Before we can begin painting we need to ready our materials! This is one of the three panels I will be working on today.The directions on the MagiKote suggest using a something akin to a putty knife to spread the stuff onto your surface, and I had trouble with this so I began with a foam brush. This was easier to do the initial spread and then allowed me to use a putty knife (actually I used a plastic spatula) for the 2nd and third layers. Rather than painting it on, I sort of bounced it into place. This helped to fill some of the deep areas in the Styrofoam. Let each coat dry for many hours in between and be sure each coat is spread thinly! I gave it a good 24 hours between coats.
After 3 coats and a light sanding, I was ready to get down to business with my paints! I jumped right into the what will be the top panel of my triptych. I am a put the paint on the panel kind of gal and blend it from there apparently, since that is what I did most of this project! A bit of white, a drop of turquoise and a drop of Sea Glass was what I used for the upper most section of the sky which I will dilute in 2 additional sections down to white near the bottom. A kind of dark, medium, and light thing if you will.
I used the same kind of brush action for the entire project. I used a bit of a pouncey or stippling motion to apply a color and a bit of a slight gentle sweep in a circular motion to blend.
Once I had my sky tones in place, I needed some darkish clouds… I used a slate gray and a beige mixed with a drop of Avocado and lightened by white. I used the same pouncey sweeping motion to stipple them on and then gently blend them.
To move down to the next panel I placed them adjacent to each other and brought some of the bottom-most color of the top panel onto the top of the next panel to bring a bit of unity. In this instance it was a very light version of my sky color (teeny tiny bit of turquoise and sea glass green mixed with white). Once I had them matched up I continued to lighten even further to a bright white which would be about where I am ready to bring in my horizon line!
And so I did! I started with a light slate gray (slate gray mixed with white) and just gently ran my brush in a horizontal line across my panel. I made sure to try and stay inconsistent in my line so that it might look more natural. Then I ran a darker layer of the slate gray (mixed with the tiniest bit of black) just underneath in a few areas along the horizon line.
And then some blue in varying shades (dark and medium tones) and blended in sweeping strokes, and again in just a few areas, not everywhere. Then I decided to bring in some hilly regions (you can see the beginning of that in the image above in brown, and even more of that in the image below).
I wasn’t perfecting anything at this point and in fact I was trying very hard to stay loose and not focus so hard on what I was doing. I fell like my mind over thinks things and this is the opposite of what you want, just go with it, and don’t be afraid to just wing it and make a sweeping line of paint however you wish!
I filled in that hilly area I painted with brown and then started adding in some dark (black) and then light (gray) and then I just went crazy adding layer after layer of color for shading and depth.
I tried to add highlighting along the top edge and deeper shades nearer to the bottom of this hilly region, and of course some plant life, maybe even wild flowers or fun and colorful play of the shadows with plums and blues and greens. There aren’t any rules here if you haven’t been taught any, and perhaps that is best!
Onto the grassy meadows between the hills with shades of green and yellow, with a touch of blue here and there.
Always pouncing and sweeping in a circular motion to blend colors along the way.
When I was ready to move onto the 3rd panel I did something similar to what I did above when I moved onto the 2nd panel only before I began to pull color down I painted the entire 3rd panel in slate gray. I did this to give the lowest panel a deeper hue even though I would be using many of the same shades of green. Then rather than pulling the color down, I actually began adding a bit of color right near the bottom of the 2nd panel and brought it down onto the 3rd panel. A darker shade of plant life than I had previously added to the 2nd panel and a new section on the 3rd panel.
Once I had made several areas this darker teal shade and mixed in a bit of grass green, I moved down into my next hilly section. I basically laid out all of the areas of the 3rd panel that would be dark and was planning on blending them all using the lighter shades in a future step.
I shaded the lower hills in a similar fashion as above by making them a solid brown, adding black and then highlighted areas in blue on the right side of the panel as you can see above, and in a plum shade on the left side as you can see below.
To begin blending the remaining green portion of the lower panel I simply added some yellowy shades and sage to blend with the greens I had already laid down. The paint in those areas was already dry, but whn you lay another color over the top it changes the hue you end up with in each area.
And then I blended, pounced, and blended some more until all the greens and yellows were moderately blended but not quite so much as to make pea soup of course. You want some of the individual areas to remain in different shades and hues otherwise it would be strange looking, don’t you think?
Once I was finished with the painting itself, it was onto the hanging I would go!
I used my Dischangers to hang these fine friends of mine with the knowledge I would have to secure them using heavy duty tape, of course!
Up they went and centered well on my very empty space above the mantle! I couldn’t be more proud of myself for finally just giving this a go. It’s awfully tough to find the time to sit down and paint (or stand as was my case) but it’s so completely worth it and very therapeutic (I need lot’s and lot’s of therapy since beginning this blogging endeavor of mine with a toddler in tow, someone should have warned me)!
My Fabulous Raised Toybox
07.20.11
Th perfect furniture like solution for toy storage. Seems like no matter how much storage I build, the toys keep on coming…ugh. But with pieces that add a little extra something to a room with their bold color or stylish capabilities, it makes that fact a little less irritating, am I right?
I adore the color and absolutely no wiggle wabble whatsoever. Click here to learn how I was able to get the build perfected, the first time out of the gate…
The full set of plans for this piece can be found here.
It would seem I forgot to carve out the handles…shucks..not to worry, I will go back in and tackle that this weekend using a 1 1/2″ hole saw attachment for my drill. I will have to create a few holes in a row to get the handle looking even remotely handle like, but that shouldn’t be a problem.
I would love to add casters to this, and I think I may do just that. This little friend is anything but little, and in fact quite heavy. Casters, handles, maybe even a tow rope to give me some toy storing and picking up ease.
Under $25 since I used 1×8 boards for the body of this unit and 2×2’s for the legs. This left a small space between the boards for the bottom which helps with all of that random debris that accumulates in toy boxes otherwise!
I wanted a bit of a rustic painted finish, but I didn’t want to add extra steps to the finishing process (I don’t really have a lot of extra time on my hands, so quick is crucial!). I simply painted directly over the bare wood, with no primer and left my finish a bit sparse in areas. No sanding on the back end and 2 coats of wipe on poly did the trick beautifully. The color is Duck’s Egg by Martha Stewart for Home Depot and it’s even more fabulous in person, and Low VOC as well!
Built From These Plans
Free Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Tall Dresser Part 1
07.20.11
If you are in need of storage, this is the piece for you! I love the height of this piece and while it appears to be a complicated build, it really isn't. For those of you who are scared of drawer slides…this was made with you in mind. For the rest of you..I am pretty sure you will enjoy this for it's back to basic furniture building techniques reminiscent of the days when furniture was made well, and by hand with no metal hardware other than drawer handles.
The overall dimension are below. We will be tackling this in 2 parts, and not because it is long and tedious or difficult. Only because it has been drafted for amazing ease of building, however, in this instance it means that we have a few steps for building the components, and then we have the assembly. I will be dividing the plans up accordingly, with day 1 on constructing and day 2 on assembly and trim. We shall keep it simple! Click here for the assembly plans.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Estimated Cost
$200-$300
Dimensions
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Kreg Jig
- **Miter Saw- Optional for Mitering trim on drawers, top and base.
Lumber
- 4 sheets- 3/4″ Plywood (only the 2 Sides and the Dresser Top are seen, so 1 of these 4 sheets should be a higher grade, the rest can be as inexpensive as you like).
- 2 sheets – 1/2″ Plywood (1 sheet containing the pieces for the Drawer False Fronts should be a higher grade)
- 2 sheets – 1/4″ Plywood (you actually need 1 plus a half sheet sized 2'x8' if your store will sell it this way, this is for the back and can be a lesser grade if you like.)
- 37 linear feet – 1/2 x 3/4″ **Solid Hardwood for this! May be called Trim or Dowel (hardwood). If you aren't able to find this size in a hardwood, choose a 1/2 x 1/2 if necessary and change the space between them on the drawer bottoms to 5/8″
- 37 linear feet – 3/4 x 3/4″ Square Trim
- **54 linear feet – 1/4 x 1 1/8 to 1 1/2″ @ 10' (might be labeled as solid lattice board or another similar name, you need an actual thickness of 1/4″ the width doesn't matter as much. Could actually range from 3/4″ to 1 1/2″ and still work, the measurements for the drawer face trim won't change unless you are not mitering, then you will need to account for whichever width you end up with).
- 4 – 1×2 @ 10'
- 1 – 1×3 @ 10'
- 1 – 1×3 @ 8'
- 1 – 1×3 @ 6'
- 6 – 1×4 @ 10'
- 1 – 1×4 @ 8'
- 1 – 1×4 @ 6'
- 1 – 2×3 @ 6'
- 1 – 2×4 @ 8'
- 1 – 2×4 @ 6'
Materials
- **I have designed this plan in a more traditional fashion by using wooden drawer slides that you will be constructing. If you prefer to purchase metal drawer slides, or plan for this piece to take a lot of abuse, then choose an under mount drawer slide with 1/2″ clearance and none of your measurements will be thrown off. You will need 10 if you choose this route.
- **10 Drawer Handles of your choice. Or if you prefer to use a smaller knob, then you will need 20 (2 per Drawer)
- **Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- 2 1/2″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ Finish Nails (you can also use the 1 1/4″ Screws for the if you prefer not to buy this or don't have a finish nail gun and aren't so handy with a hammer and those tiny little nail heads)
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 57″ x 20″ (Base Top and Dresser Top)
- 3 – 3/4″ Ply @ 50 3/4″ x 19 1/4″ (Side and Middle Panels)
- 2 20 – 3/4″ Ply @ 19 1/4″ x 8 3/4″ (Side/Middle Panel Inserts)
- 20 – 3/4″ Ply @ 18″ x 7 3/4″ (Drawer Sides)
- 10 – 3/4″ Ply @ 24 1/2″ x 7 3/4″ (Drawer Fronts)
- 10 – 3/4″ Ply @ 23 x 6 3/4″ (Drawer Backs)
- 10 – 1/2″ Ply @ 23″ x 18″ (Drawer Bottoms)
- 10 – 1/2″ Ply @ 24 1/2″ x 7 3/4″ (Drawer False Fronts)
- 3 – 1/4″ Ply @ 55 3/4″ x 16 11/12″ (Back)
- 10 – 1/2″ x 3/4″ Solid Wood Trim @ 19 1/4″ (Runners)
- 20 – 1/2″ x 3/4″ Solid Wood Trim @ 18″ (Runner Tracks)
- 4 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Trim @ 19 1/4″ (Cleats at the Top of the Side/Middle Panels)
- 2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Trim @ 58 1/2″ (Front Trim, for Base Top and Dresser Top)
- 4 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Trim @ 21 1/2″ (Side Trim, for Base top and Dresser Top)
- 2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Square Trim @ 24 3/4″ (Bottom Rail of Face Frame)
- 2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Square Trim @ 50 3/4″ (Side Panel Trim toward Front)
- **20 – 1/4″ x 1 1/8 or 1 1/2″ The measurements will remain the same regardless if you are mitering (see drawer instructions) If you aren't mitering, please account for the difference in width.
- **20 – 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ Trim @ 7 3/4″ (Drawer Front Trim, Sides)
- ** same as above 4 – 1×2 @ 19 1/4″ (Bottom Side/Middle Panel Insert)
- 10 – 1×2 @ 24 3/4″ (Rails of Face Frame)
- 2 – 1×2 @ 50 3/4″ (Side Panel Trim)
- 3 – 1×3 @ 50 3/4″ (Stiles, Face Frame)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 24 3/4″ (Top Rails, Face Frame)
- 4 – 1×3 @ 17″ (Top/Bottom Trim, Side Panels)
- 22 – 1 x 4 @ 26 3/4″ (Front and Back Drawer Supports)
- 22 – 1×4 @ 12 1/4″ (Sides of Drawer Supports)
- 6 – 2×3 @ 4″ (Legs) 4 – 2×4 @ 15 3/4″ (Side Support Cleats)
- 2 – 2×4 @ 25 1/4″ (Front, Support Cleat)
- 2 – 2×4 @ 19 3/4″ (Back, Support Cleats)
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build the Base: Fasten the Plywood Insert to the Legs, with the edges of the legs and base insert flush. Then attach the trim to the insert. Miter the front corners if you like (not required) and the trim on the sides will end at the back, with no trim around the backside. **While you are on this step, you can build out the Dresser Top as well. It will be exactly the same as the Base Top, with plywood insert and trim on 3 sides, mitered in front the corners if you prefer.
Step 2
Build your Drawer Supports. The Bottom and Top Drawer Support will be different than the rest. The bottom will have support Cleats (Shown below in 2nd Image), and the top will not need a runner (not shown). Using your Pocket Hole system, attach the the Sides of the supports to the front and back. You will set your system for 3/4″ Stock and use 1 1/4″ PHS. The cleats for the bottom support will be thicker than the actual support and are set back 3/4″ from the sides (this will mean they overhang 3/4″ in the center), but flush with the front and back. Fasten the cleats with 2″ Screws from underneath. Attach The Runner with 1 1/4″ Screws, be sure to countersink so there isn't any interference when it slides between the Runner Tracks. Drawer Support, Bottom Drawer Support with Cleats:
Step 3
Construct 2 Side Panels and 1 Middle Panel. The Side panels will mirror each other, with Inserts on the inside only, and the Middle Panel will have inserts on both sides. The bottom insert is a 1×2, the top is a 3/4 x 3/4″ Square Trim piece, the rest are plywood. Simply fasten them to the panels at the appropriate dimensions shown below. This form of construction is meant to mimic creating Dadoes , but will allow those of you who don't have a table saw, to build this as well. If you typically have your local lumber store cut your pieces for you, this version will save you a lot of time as well. Just glue and screw and you are on your way! Fasten with 1 1/4″ Screws and fasten through the inserts and into the Side Panel from the insert side. This will hide your fasteners. Side Panel (don't forget you need to make 2 of these…), Middle Panel, respectively:
Step 4
Build your Drawers. Each drawer will be exactly the same size, and you will need to construct 10 of them! The Front and Sides will extend beyond the drawer bottom 1/2″ to accommodate the drawer slides. We are using wooden drawer slides that you are building to remove some of the anxiety from building drawers. Construct your Drawers using Pocket Holes for 3/4″ stock to build the box and 1″ Screws from the inside the fasten the False Front to the Drawer Face. Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails to fasten your Trim. **If you prefer to use a metal drawer slides, you can do so by choosing an under mount slide with 1/2″ clearance and will not need to adjust any of the drawer measurements. You will not need the runner on the Drawer Supports in the step above, your slides will come with their own runner. It is very important that you space the Runner Tracks 7/8″ apart and placed 7/16″ from the midpoint. This needs to be as precise as possible for proper alignment with the runner from the step above. You can test them prior to assembling your dresser and sand where necessary to ensure a smooth glide. I am recommending that you consider rounding the edges a bit to ensure they have proper paths to travel and that you consider purchasing hardwood for the Runner Pieces. Hardwood on hardwood tends to glide a bit more easily and retain it's strength and function for a longer period of time.
Step 5
Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) set for 3/4″ stock. Space the Rails 8″ apart. The Top and Bottom Rails are flush with the top and bottom of the Stiles, and the Bottom Rail will be comprised of 2 pieces, a 1×2 and a 3/4″ Square Trim Piece, you can attach them both to the Stiles and to each other if you like. I would probably just use finish nails to join together and Pocket Holes for attaching to the Stiles. If you have a table saw and you prefer to rip a 1×3 to get 2 1/4″ width, rather than combine the 2 pieces, you are welcome to do that as well.
You will cut the remaining pieces that we will be using in Part 2 for this piece, and when we meet again, we will put this baby together!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Green with Envy
07.20.11
Are you feeling green with envy? Celebrate your envy in style with these three easy yet fabulous statement pieces!
Sources
Sourced: Painting, Light Bulb, Watch
Adore Home Mag: The British Edition
07.20.11
I am absolutely smitten with this online mag I discovered last weekend called adore home! Literally, I do adore! I hope you take a second to browse through, I am fairly certain you will love it as much as I do! The cover alone makes me swoon!
Below are a few of the incredible spreads…I hope you enjoy! Go flip through the whole mag! You won’t be sorry you did. Stay tuned, I will be back shortly with a fun little announcement that concerns none other than all of you fine friends!
Sources
Image Credits: Adore Mag