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Plans
I am so excited to bring you our very first ever, reader submitted, Full set of Furniture Plans! This project was brought to us by Loren, who I know you all will adore for her absolutely fine example of craftsmanship!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Jig Saw, Table Saw – to create notches in the shelves.
- Miter Saw – or either of the 2 above tools will also work for cutting at an angle.
Lumber
- 1 – 1×10 at 8’ OR 1 – 1×10 at 10’ OR 2 – 1×10 at 6’– you can fit all 4 shelves on one board if you don’t mind having each shelf be a hair shorter than the plans call for. Won’t be an issue structurally.
- 3 – 1×2 at 8'
- **1 – 1×6 at 6’ – optional for adding a lower backing board, perfect for hooks that hang hand towels or decorative items.
Materials
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 3” Drywall Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 1×2 at 39 1/2″ Back Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 32 1/4″ Front Legs
- 4 – 1×10 at 24” Shelves
- 10 – 1×2 at 7 3/4” Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 19” Cleats
- 6 – 1×2 at 12” Diagonal Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 11” Lower Diagonal Rails
**1 – 1×6 at 19” – optional for a lower back board for hanging hooks to use for hand towels… or some other fun thing!
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Leg Units: Space the Rails accordingly and use your pocket hole system to secure, set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the rails to the front and back legs using your 2” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.
Step 2
Build your Shelves: notch out 4 rectangles to allow for the legs to rest flush with the front of the shelf. These will sit 1” in from the sides of each shelf, and will be 3/4” x 1 1/2” allowing for the true dimension of a 1×2 board. Do this carefully and use a jig saw or table saw for this step. Once you have each section notched out, you will set the shelves on the existing rails and fasten in place using glue and 2” screws if you prefer, though you will be sandwiching the shelves in place with the future addition of upper rails and so securing with screws isn’t entirely necessary, but totally acceptable.
Step 3
Fasten the Cleats in Place: use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the cleats in place, just below each shelf. This will be how you fasten the unit to the wall when you are finished with this project. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to secure the cleats by screwing through the legs using 3” screws and glue, and this isn’t my recommended solution here, but is possible if necessary.
Step 4
Fasten your additional Rails in Place: use 2” screws and glue to fasten them in place or a pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. The diagonal rails will all be cut at a 45 degree angle and should be sized according to exact measurement (as in measure and mark your precise length required). My plans suggest you will come in right around 11 9/64” at the longest point on the diagonal rails. Note: the lower diagonal rails are shorter than the upper diagonal rails.
Step 5
You can finish at this step, or you can continue on to attach a backing board under the bottom shelf using a 1×6 at 19” and your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to attach. This would be a fabulous place to add decorative hooks for hanging hand towels, or decorative accents for the bath! Fill any screws holes with wood filler, sand, and touch up or finish as desired!
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Home / Showcase
Aside from my toddler storage cubby desk, the low loft bunk is the best thing that ever happened to the square footage in my little guy’s room! When you can’t move outward, build upward…am I right? Not to mention it really sets the stage for dual function furniture in his room and dictates that all the other pieces function accordingly! His toddler activity table must fit underneath, and needs to have storage space, and as I build more for this room as he grows, I will continue this mutli-functioning theme along the way!
Estimated Cost
$118 For everything! That includes paint, hardware, sandpaper…everything!
Length of Time
3 days including painting and dry time. The actual building of the bed was pretty fast, it was the painting and sanding that took the longest.
Finishing Technique
I filled all the knots and rough patches, sanded well and painted with Zinc from Martha Stewart for Home Depot
You can see in the images below how the room has progressed over the last year…the first image shows his former crib turned Monster Mash daybed sofa and the bottom picture shows his reading nook coming along nicely and bench seating for his toasty and lollipop breakfast…I mean no one ever said I was a parenting expert!
Design / Shopping
Swiss luxury brand Bally celebrates its 160th anniversary this year, and to celebrate they collaborated with Herman Miller to produce a limited edition Eames shell chair. White with twin stripes, the traditional Bally Branding, wooden leg construction, and a metal label on the back, this chair is without a doubt the epitome of chic. I want…I need…it's definitely on my lust list!
Design / Home
I'm all about the sunshine lately! It has been nice and warm here for the last 2 days, after more than a week of weird weather, and I am so glad to get outside again. Planting in my yard is one of my favorite activities, unfortunately I am always limited on funding for this type of project. Rather than go without, or purchase one large beauty, I opt for many plantings that cost no more than $5 each and a few that will be even less (likely around $3). They may be small, but with a few bags of Composted Steer Manure (less than $1 per bag and great for your plants) and a little TLC, they will be more than large in due time!
Each Land: Scape I produce, you can rest assured is extremely budget friendly, assuming you purchase the small lot. You are welcome to purchase larger or very large varieties of each plant if that is affordable for you, but it isn't necessary for you to still reap the reward, on big impact color scapes! That is the beauty of a color scape, you don't need to invest hundreds to have something wonderful even in it's most infant growth stage. The color arrangement provides the impact rather than the size of the plants.
I typically buy my plants from Home Depot, Lowe's, or Walmart so each of the plants I choose should be readily available assuming they are meant for your climate zone.
If you assume that each of these plants is the full $5 (which it probably won't be) this Land:Scape should still cost you no more than $55! That's budget friendly for sure, because these plantings (forsythia, flax, cyprus) will get quite large and this will cover a decent portion of your yard if you plant it properly.
Always be sure to check your climate zone and pay careful attention to the planting distances outlined on the plant's container when you purchase them. They will never reach full height or width if they are planted too closely.
Without further ado…here is color story for full (moderate might be pushing it, but might be possible) sun.
The Planting Guide below is for the purpose of giving you an idea of where each plant should be planted in relationship to the other plants. Always follow the instructions on your plant tags for the actual distance or spacing each plant requires, then use this guide to arrange them accordingly. Consider the center of each circle to be the stem and root system of the plant and space from the center of one plant to the center of the next (according to the planting instructions on the pot or tag).
The New Zealand Flax will provide the most impact in this Color Scape if you purchase it in the burgandy-ish color. The Kangaroo Paw comes in a wide variety of colors but for this arrangement I chose pink, and the verbena in 2 different colors: a bright deep red and a purplish blue. The Erysimum is fabulous in orange because it gives you a gradation in orange colors ranging from redish orange to yellowish orange and the main color is amazing and rich!
Let's begin with a few key ingredients and steps for you to complete to achieve your beautiful land:scape:
1. Before you plant it is a good idea to amend your soil with compost. It is the most budget friendly manner of adding organic matter to your soil and can be purchased for literally less than $1 per bag (for Composted Steer Manure) at your local Home Depot or Lowe's type store.
It will make a world of difference, that I can promise you! Many people have jumped on the personal composting bandwagon recently, because of the green movement and the benefit to not only our planet but to your yard. For me this isn't an option given how small (and I mean minute) my yard is. So purchasing Composted Steer Manure is my next best option (and it's fast). Chicken Manure is even more fab, but much more expensive, so I leave that option up to you and your budget!
Check with your local Utility company to see if they offer free compost. Often times they do! Compost is not the same thing as mulch, but free mulch will be fabulous to add after you have planted to help with water retention and reduce weeds. Weeds will love the composted environment and will sprout up like crazy!
2. Make sure you have proper drainage in your planting area. You can do a quick check by digging your planting hole and filling it with water. If it hasn't drained in 15 minutes, you need to amend your soil further to increase drainage. If you have a high clay content you will want to amend your soil when it is completely dry, do not attempt this when wet as you will change the structure of your soil and it will be worse.
3. Follow those planting instructions, they are there for a reason. Once you have planted your land scape you will want to water it in, well. This helps the roots spread and begin to open up for future growth.
4. Fertilize regularly (again according to the instructions). I like to use either the hose attachment that Miracle Grow makes with refills or something like Shake N' Feed. This will help your plantings grow large fast and keep them healthy, giving you the most bang for your buck. Buy them small, and fertilize them big! That's my motto!
Design / Shopping
I love the utilitarian chicness of this room and the products below it, both functional and stylish, can't ask for more…unless perhaps they are also affordable? Well that would be heaven!
Plans
I thought we might try something different for a change of pace. We are making a quick pit stop in the land of Kitchens to complete a quick book shelf, then back to our kitchen series…
I have modified this plan to account for readily available materials and ease of building. The dimensions, therefore, will be slightly different than the original piece in depth and width.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Kreg Jig
Lumber
- 9 – 2×10 at 8'
- 2 – 2×2 at 6'
Materials
**Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2 1/2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 2×2 at 41″ Frame
- 4 – 2×2 at 10″ Frame
- 4 – 2×10 at 45 1/2″ Base and Top
- 4 – 2×10 at 66 3/4″ Sides
- 10 – 2×10 at 28 2/3″ Shelves
- 12 – 2×10 at 9 7/8″ Dividers
Instructions
**Join Boards together with your Pocket Hole system THEN join for assembly. Alternate your pocket holes on each board to keep them from warping in any given direction. Be sure to place your pocket holes out of site because they will leave quite a hole to fill.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Frame: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2″ stock and secure with 2 1/2″ PHS.
Step 2
Join your adjacent boards by alternating your pocket holes between the boards. Set your Kreg Jig for 1 1/2″ stock and use your 2 1/2″ PHS to join. Place all Pocket Holes out of site or underneath whenever possible. After you have joined all pairs of your boards, you can begin to join them for assembly to the other pairs. For this step, join your boards then fasten to the frame.
Step 3
Attach the sides. Use your Kreg Jig to do this using 2 1/2″ PHS.
Step 4
Attach the Top and begin to secure the shelves and their respective dividers. For the Shelves, it will be easiest for you to fasten the dividers to the shelf that corresponds to it, then attach the L shaped unit to the furniture piece. Do this for each shelf and work from the bottom on up. The dividers will act as supports for the sleves building on each other like building blocks. Each shelf will attach to the side panels and will need to be secured using your Kreg Jig by placing Pocket Holes underneath. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ PHS. If you secure the L-shaped units first you also have the option to simply countersink and use your 2 1/2″ screws to join, then use your Pocket Holes System to assemble and attach to the larger furniture unit.
Step 5
The diagram below shows placement for some of your Pocket Holes.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
This kitchen microwave toy is perfect for the kiddos whose houses or rooms are not exactly plentiful on square footage. This will easily fit on a shelf or dresser top for hours on end of playtime fun! I’m sure you can imagine what might be coming next!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- 1 1/2″ Hole Saw Bit – or a jig saw, belt saw, patience and a sander…any of these will work.
- Saw – you can have your local lumber supply cut your boards to their overall dimensions for you and then use a jig saw to make the detailed cuts if you like.
- Kreg Jig – you can purchase a solid table top round at any size that suits your purpose, or you can fasten together boards using your pocket hole system.
Lumber
- 1 1/2″ x 1/4″ dowel pegs, or 1/4″ dowel rod cut to size – you will only need 2 of these at very short lengths.
- 1/4 sheet 1/2 plywood or mdf
- 1- 1×2 at 6′
Materials
- # 8 – 1 1/2″ Wood Screws
- #8 – 2″ Wood Screws – if you aren’t using a Pocket Hole System
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – if you are using a pocket hole system to create the door
- 1 1/2″ x 1/4″ dowel pegs, or 1/4″ dowel rod cut to size
- 2 – 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ carriage bolts or hex bolts with 1/4″ diameter of the shaft, you want the head to have a hexagon shape.
- 2 – nuts in the appropriate size for the back end.
- Countersink Bit
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
- Clear thin Acrylic sheeting – this is optional and you can opt to skip this leaving the opening in the door, open.
Cut List
- 2 – 1/2″ ply or mdf at 11 1/4″ x 7 1/2″ Top and Bottom
- 2 – 1/2″ ply or mdf at 7 1/2″ x 6″ Sides
- 1 – 1/2″ ply or mdf at 10 3/4″ x 6″ Back
- 1 – 1/2″ ply or mdf at 3 1/4″ x 6″ Front Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 6″ Door Stiles
- 2 – 1×2 at 4″ Door Rails
- 2 – 1 1/2″ Circular Knobs – create from 1×2
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Cut your bottom, sides, and back. Fasten together using glue and 1 1/2″ wood screws.
Step 2
At 1/2″ from the edge of your side panel and 3/8″ from the front edge of your bottom, you will create a hole using a 3/8″ drill bit and a depth collar at the 1/4″ mark on your drill. You can actually wrap your drill bit with tape and visually know when to stop drilling. The idea is that you drill 1/4″ down into the bottom panel and stop. You will do this on your top panel as well, only since it isn’t attached to the sides yet, you will measure out 1″ from the side edge and 3/8″ from the front and drill 1/4″ down into the panel.
Step 3
You will construct your door and fasten the front panel in place. To construct the door, either use your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, or use your 2″ screws and wood glue. Use 1 1/2″ Screws and glue to fasten the front panel in place.
Step 4
Drill your hole into the top and bottom of the left most stile on your door. You will adjust your depth to be equal to the length necessary if you subtract 3/8″ from the total length of your dowel peg. that number will be how far down into your door stile the dowel peg will sit. place your depth collar at that level on your drill bit, or a piece of tape. The hole should be placed 3/8″ in from the edge and precisely 3/8″ in from the front and back of the door stile (vertical piece) or precisely in the center.
Step 5
Place your dowel pegs into the bottom panel and the top of the door. Do not glue!
Set the door onto the bottom panel peg. Again, do not glue!
Step 7
Set your top panel onto the Top Door Peg and fasten the Top to the Side panels and the Front Panel. Do not fasten to the door or glue the top door peg in place!
Step 8
Drill 3/8″ holes into the Front Panel. This should give your bolt room to spin! After you have cut your circles to size, fasten the bolt through the front of the knob, and let it rest through the hole in the front panel, then attach a nut on the back. Keep it loose so that it will spin properly.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design
I know you are all excited to see this, and would you know I was able to keep it under wraps…I was worried there for a bit, that I would spill the beans! I finished this design services project and kept the budget low by using DIY art, pieces they already own, and collectibles that can be purchased for very low cost.
Here are the before pictures for this area:
Not bad eh? The homeowner just want to pull things together and give the room a modern spin with the colors and shades you see in the Moodboard.
There were almost 4 pages of deets for this project, so I will refrain from including them here, but if you see something in this design plan that you love and want to know more about, feel free to comment and I will provide the source!
My goal here was to provide both a Shopping List of items and a list of DIY projects that could be completed at their discretion. Being able to choose between purchasing or making items makes this a flexible plan on many levels and potentially extremely budget friendly. I used pieces she already had such as her window treatments, bookshelves, and a few accessories. No point in letting them go by the wayside, if they don’t fit in the plan as is, we shall simply change them and make them work!
Plans
This bed was beautiful in twin size (plans for that are here), so queen should be just as fabulous if not more so, since it's bigger! I love the understated beauty of this piece with a bit of decorative trim but without the fuss, and the cost (or lack thereof) is mighty enjoyable too! This plan will show a modification for the top by using a horizontal top trim board rather than the finials…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Lumber
- 1 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF
- 2 – 2×4 at 6' – optional if you are not using finials
- 2 – 1×8 at 10'
- 1 – 1×2 at 10' (3 – runners + 1 lower head side)
- 1 – 1×2 at 8' (everything else listed for 1×2 cuts)
- 2 – 2×3 at 10'
- 6 to 8 – 1×4 at 6' – optional slats for extra support or use without a box spring
Materials
- 1 1/4″ Wood Screws
- 3″ Wood Screws
- 4 finials if desired. Round Ball Curtain Finials are used in the inspiration bed.
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
Cut List
- 2 – 4×4 at 41″ Legs
- 2 – 4×4 at 30″ Legs
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply at 8 3/4″ x 55″ Upper Headboard Panel
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply at 16 1/2″ x 55″ Lower Headboard Panel
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply at 4 1/2″ x 55″ Upper Footboard Panel
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply at 9 3/4″ x 55″ Lower Footboard Panel
- 6 – 2×3 at 56 1/2″ Head and Foot Board Center Boards
- 2 – 1×8 at 62″ Head and Foot Rails
- 2 – 1×8 at 82 1/2″ Side Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 81″ Cleats
- 4 – 1×2 at 55″ Upper and Lower Head and Foot Runner Boards (above and below the upper and lower panels)
- 2 – 1×2 at 9 1/2″ Upper Head Side Boards
- 2 – 1×2 at 17 1/4″ Lower Head Side Boards
- 2 – 1×2 at 5 1/4″ Upper Foot Side Boards
- 2 – 1×2 at 10 1/2″ Lower Foot Side Boards
- 8 – 1×4 at 62″ Slats – optional for extra support or use without box spring
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Build your Headboard and Foot Board Panels. Use your 3″ Screws to fasten the Panels and Boards together and the entire piece will be sandwiched for easy attaching to the legs. You will have a tricky time fastening the Upper and Lower Inserts to the 2×3 in the center, so don't worry too much about that and simply focus on attaching to the legs and lining them up properly. It won't make much difference if the aren't attached so long as the are attached to the side boards and the legs. Use glue, and fasten the center board to one of the two sides (upper or lower) and you will be just fine.
Step 2
Fasten the Panels to the legs. Use 3″ Screws to fasten from the inside 1×2 running down the sides of each Panel. Fasten all the way down the Panel Length every 3-4 inches, countersink and fasten with glue as well.
Step 3
Fasten the Bed Frame in Place, use 3″ Screws from inside Head and Foot Board Rail into the Legs. The Side Rails will fasten directly to the Head and Foot Rails, and the Head and Foot Rails to the Legs. Attach the cleats as well. Use 1 1/4″ Screws for the cleats and fasten from the inside.
Step 4
Add the Top Trim Boards using Glue and 3″ Screws. Then if needed add a few slats. This bed is meant for using both a Mattress and Box Spring. If your matress is not a typical width, you will benenfit from adding a few 1×3 slats to ensure it doesn't fall through. Mattresses are supposed to come in fairly standard sizings, but they don't… So this is only if you need them, and isn't required. Fasten slats to the cleats using 1 1/4″ wood screws and drill pilot holes for your finials. Screw them down and into place and add your mattress, box spring and bedding…you are done! yahoo.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Plans
The image below shows a high end space using recycled, low end pallets in a most fabulous way. This may very well be the most inexpensive, high style storage solution for this particular use, I have seen yet. The only unfortunate part of this, is that for many of us, these inexpensive or free, recycled pallets, are anything but. In California, you would be hard pressed, or very lucky to get your hands on a few of these…so, if you're like me, and you can't join them…beat em' and fake it!
This plan is for quick and easy project that can be created from scraps left over from other projects or from a few inexpensively purchased boards, and can be altered to suit any scraps or boards you have on hand. Get yourself an inexpensive set of stencils (Dollar Store, Grocery Store or WalMart and typically sold for teachers or kids making poster board projects), and a couple of small bottles of craft paint to give yourself some authentic looking pallet markings and to highlight the nicks and gouges you will be creating if you want to weather and age your piece.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Tools
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw
- Hammer and other Gouging/Banging Devices
Lumber
- 1 – 1×3 at 10' (can also be a 1×4 or a combination of 1×3 and 1×2 for the sides)
- 1 – 2×2 at 6'
- 1 – 1×10 at 36″ (can also use ply if you have that on hand)
Materials
1 1/2″ Wood Screws or Nails
Black, Gray, Light Green or Light Blue, Reddish Brown Craft Paint
Paint Brush for aging (something simple like a 1 1/2″ brush will be perfect, and a brush you can use to stencil letters and numbers (can be same brush or a stippling brush)
Cut List
2 – 1×3 at 18 1/2″ Front and Back Boards
2 – 1×3 at 9 1/4″ Sides
4 – 2×2 at 7 1/2″ Legs
1 – 1×10 at 17″ Bottom
Instructions
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Step 1
Begin by Beating or Marking your boards, be sure to avoid a pattern that will look contrived.
Use your hammer, drill even screws and nails will do the job and be sure to do more markings on some boards than others. Less is more here, but some is a definite necessity.
Sand any rough edges and round a few edges or corners here and there using your sander. Create the look or worn and handled often.
Leave any stampings or markings that come on your boards as these will suit or purposes well and should be placed in prominent locations whenever possible! Holding your brush in one hand and board in the other, be sure to turn over on end and cover every side and edge of each board. If you use some of your boards as drying boards or as a place to set your board while painting then you will end up with a few random markings you wouldn't be able to as easily reproduce in your attempt to be random.
Go slow, start with less and build and layer your finish. This type of finish doesn't lend itself to sanding for correction without sanding down quite a bit and beginning again…but just know you can always do that if you need!
Step 2
Using your stencils and black craft paint, create a seemingly random pattern of letters or numbers to lend to the idea that this was used for commercial purposes and marked for inventory or tracking.
Use a stippling or pouncing motion with your stencils and a very small amount of paint so that you don't get seepage under your stencil.
Once you have your stenciling done and it has dried completely, you will want to gently sand over the painted surfaces to create some wearing. Be very very gentle when doing this so that you still retain the stenciling and don't worry if it doesn't look worn enough after a bit of sanding..you will take care of that with paint in the next steps!
Step 3
Using the leftover paint on your brush from stenciling, dry brush on your boards with the black. If you need to reload with paint, just be sure to wipe away excess so you are truly brushing with a very light small amount.
Step 4
Clean out your brush and dry excess wetness while leaving a bit of dampness on your brush. This will help it to have more of a wash affect rather than a paint affect which is what we are looking for in this project.
Using your light gray paint, mix in a touch of blue or green and with a very small amount on your brush, cover the surface, sides, and edges of each board. You want this to be fairly washed down so that you aren't painting a solid color but gently sweeping a gray aged color onto your boards.
Step 5
Now you will want to create an actual wash, with one small drop of reddish brown and a brush full of water mixed very well and very wet. Lightly wash this over the entire surface of every board, paying special attention to really coat those areas where you may have an excess of color from the previous step. Again maintain a random patter of more or less of the wash, but be sure to hit every area with this. You can see in the images below how water mine was on the plate.
Once your finish has dried you will build this baby!
Using your Drill or Hammer Attach 2×2's in the corners to the bottom board. They will sit flush with the outside edges directly on the corners.
Leave no more than 1/2″ between the top of the bottom board and the bottom of the sides, back and front.
Attach your surrounding sides, back and front to the Legs and each other using screws or nails.
Finishing Instructions
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Design / Shopping
Creating the nursery of your dreams…on a budget.
Yesterday we focused on how to begin the process of designing your dream nursery in Part 1 of Creating an Eco-chic Nursery for Less. We used fabric swatches as our color palette 'jumping off point', and to broaden your color palette perspective by showing your combinations you might not otherwise have put together.
Once you have set the stage for your room with fabric, choosing furniture and paint, in that order will set the stage for your accessories and will give you direction for choosing your decorative items.
Even if you are a proponent of handmade and homemade, there are quite simply a few items for the nursery, that you absolutely must purchase, such as a crib.
Choosing Furniture:
Purchasing a crib and additional nursery furniture doesn't mean you have to sacrifice your desire for a healthful and non-toxic environment, in fact quite a few companies specialize in eco-friendly furniture for your little ones. The key is finding those companies that sell environmentally friendly furniture at prices that are economically friendly to your wallet. This isn't always easy…
On the bright side, if you are willing to make most of the additional gear yourself (other than the crib), you will save hundreds of dollars and can allocate some of your savings toward the crib that fits your lifestyle needs.
There are quite a few new and stylish crib designs on the market, and most come in at least 2 color choices. Once you have determined, at least in some part, the direction your color scheme will head you can easily choose the color you desire for your nursery furniture.
If you prefer to purchase second-hand furniture to recycle and reuse rather than purchase new, you will need to keep a mindful eye on the stability of the piece and determine if it needs to be refurbished in any way to make sure it is up to par on safety standards and sturdiness. Please avoid drop-sided cribs, even if your mother swears she raised all 3 of her children in them and every single one of you made it out alive! They will be outlawed for sale by retailers as of next year and the risk is simply not worth it. If your piece needs a new coat of paint, consider some of the color choices and pairs shown below in the new furniture styles.
Above and below are a few of my favorite options available for purchase and in colors that will work well with most color schemes or are just plain fun! You can click on the links below them to view the pricing and to purchase.
1. Sahara Crib by Arington. The two-toned crib has made an appearance and it would seem that it has been a big hit among consumers.
Allowing you to incorporate more than one wood tone or painted finish into your room, this is a very modern and stylish choice.
2. Arington Bam Crib and Bassinet in Bamboo. The lightness of the bamboo color is always sure to please, and this particular crib option is actually sold in a pair with the bassinet as well. A great way to stretch your dollar and it even opens up the possibility of housing 2 little ones appropriately, should your kiddos be close in age.
3. Babyletto Modo 3 in 1 Crib. The walnut color of the base of this crib has a very warm and comforting tone to it, and would be pleasing regardless of the choices you make for color in your room. It maintains the modern styling that most of the sustainable and environmentally friendly furniture styles have, and yet has a simplicity that is quite pleasant.
4. Robin Collection Crib by Oeuf. This crib seems to combine a traditional spindle rail with a modern side panel and continues the two-toned trend.
Giving you the best of the past and the present by combing today's style sensibilities with yesterday's favorites.
5. Oeuf Eco Friendly Sparrow Crib in Grey. This crib is hands down the most representative of the direction and style cribs are heading right now. The color is a neutral and rather warm shade of gray which works well with almost any design plans and fabrics you have chosen.
Gray is the newest trend in furniture color and one that I predict will stick around for quite some time… not to mention an extremely sophisticated and stylish choice.
6. Hiya Crib. The classic white crib in a not so classic form, this crib is uber modern and yet made from sustainable materials. With it's boxy shape and wide thick bars, this design, while extremely contemporary, will lend a nice visual shape to your nursery.
7. Bloom Alma Crib. This bright green options and other bold colors are becoming quite popular for cribs and other furniture pieces. If there is a room in your house where you can take a risk such as this, a nursery or toddler is a great place to give it a whirl.
Each of the crib options can be purchased at several online sites that cater to sustainable and environmentally friendly nursery items, and all have matching pieces to complete your look.
Consider mixing and matching styles and colors, if you are daring…the result is sure to please.
Stay tuned…next on the list for creating our Eco-chic Nursery for Less: Choosing Paint Colors.
DIY / Home
Spring has arrived, whether I am ready for it, or not! I have such a love hate relationship with springtime as I love the onset of the beautiful blooms and the return of the sunshine…but I could honestly do without the allergies and the rain. Oh the endless seeming rain, that really only comes intermittently but when it does, it’s a downright windy deluge. I know the rain is important, and it definitely makes for healthy beautiful green plants, but I personally need the sun! N.E.E.D it!
And the freesia which I don’t actually recall planting bulbs for, but has managed to spring up in not one but 4 places in my yard! I suppose that suggests I did plant it or that it managed to sneak over in a batch of plantings from my previous home. I suppose that seems a bit far fetched given how it’s placed. Quite nicely, and very orderly if I do say so myself, and in a typical to me fashion, it’s placed in small groupings between other larger plantings…yes I must have planted these sweet little friends. What a nice surprise for myself, no?
I will say they are a tad thrashed from this insane wind we’ve had here, not to mention an utter lack of care or concern for them, by me..being that I had forgotten all about them and didn't even remember their existence.
The forsythia is about to make a very grand entrance as you can see above, she is well on her way!
I am seriously considering beginning to vermicompost here in the next week, ew. But I know these little babies will just love the worm juice tea as they say, ew again. Double ew, actually. Beauty is sacrifice, a well known fact, just don’t suppose they were referring to the serious ick factor associated with creating true beauty in my yard, given my serious lack of space…Worms seem to be the best option for the least amount of money.
Thanks to my fab readers and friends who hang out on my FB Fanpage and chat about all things design, gardening, décor, and DIY…I have a fabulous list of resources that I will pull from, to create my very own worm garden. Of course I will document the process every step of the way! Stay tuned, and maybe even follow along by making your own worm juicer! Ew
