Design / DIY / Home

Make Functional Fabulous

08.29.11

Project Image

I don't believe I am alone in my obsession with anything that is utilitarian and provides fabulous Storage & Organization…sometimes those items aren't cheap if they are also chic. Style most typically has a price and that price can occasionally be steep. Whether it's aching and blistered feet from those amazing pair of heels you love so much, or the 'cutting in' from a brand new leather tool belt that could perhaps use an additional notch or two in the waste-line, we all experience some sort of sacrifice in the name of style or function in our day-to-day lives. Many of us are even willing to go without style, in order to experience the pure functionality of an item, if that item has a majorly helpful use.

There is no better thrill than to hunt for an item that you desperately need or want, only to find that it is majorly discounted or inexpensive to begin with!

Though I can think of one that has equal merit…to know that you need or want an item and to know that there are inexpensive versions of that item available, and then to find inspiration for re-purposing or restyling those items with decorative touches that are also inexpensive…especially if you quite possibly have some of those refinishing items already! How about finding inspiration for rehabbing your existing items by giving them a whole new look and shelf life using items you may already own, can purchase for very little, or can create yourself? Can I get a little yahoo for that? Ya'll know what I mean, I am just sure of it..

I was browsing through my Facebook Home page and saw a link that my friend Angie posted on her Fanpage, for a few money saving tips from Martha (do I need to speak her last name? I am sure you know who I mean…kind of like Madonna, only a first name is needed). Needless to say, I was completely taken away to the land of creative possibilities, when I realized that her “money saving tips” were actually decorating on a budget tips…which I happen to adore…even more…

I wanted to share a few of my favorite ideas of hers from that article. Most of them don't need an explanation and only a caption is necessary for indicating what you are supposed to be looking at.

Let's get inspired and see what creative sparks might fly!

I love this first idea because it adds just enough style and interest without overwhelming and without requiring any painting. This is perfect for your yard sale or flea market finds that are a bit worn, the wrong color, or possibly with a slight bit of damage. Forget about patching or sanding and stripping…just decoupage a patterned paper right over top. Fast and simple, with big impact…my kind of project!

It takes a clever person to think about everyday items in ways that allow you to combine random and mismatched things and unify them so that they become a cohesive grouping when they otherwise would not have been. Just think how many towels you have donated or tossed out over the years, because they no longer fit your decor or taste? I bet quite a few…or perhaps you don't throw them out, but you banish them to the deep dark recesses of that area that is for “old towels”, condemning them to use for washing cars, or cleaning up spills (this would be my particular pack rat way…I hate to throw things out, you just never know when an idea might arise for using something you no longer like in it's current state and turning it into a prize)! I even have levels of “old towels” that can be used for certain things but not for others…yes..a bit excessive.

Martha suggests using a ribbon or trim added to your mismatched and misfit towel collection and forcing them into cohabitation and cohesion! I frankly love that thought. Besides, it accomplishes my favorite thing which is to force me to use a new color scheme that I otherwise wouldn't have put together! love a good challenge. Be sure to choose something washable and if possible something with a pattern that ties together the colors you are working with. It doesn't have to be exact, but if you come close on colors, you will benefit greatly. If not matching, then contrasting and complimenting are your next best bets!

Let's get inspired and see what creative sparks might fly!

Cover a plain (and inexpensive) magnetic board with paper or fabric and turn your organizer into an art piece. Not to mention that you will save yourself considerable time by not having to create a fabric covered bulletin board with ribbon in diamond shapes (not that it isn't fabulous as well, just takes a very long time and believe me when I say making straight and parallel crisscrossings is not as easy as you might think). Think about wrapping paper for a large and inexpensive option with a lot of style potential, and secure with Mod Podge or something of that sort.

Enlarge Clip art and decoupage onto furniture or storage items to give old and boring a bit of personality. This is a fabulous way to get an expensive custom look without spending hardly anything and without requiring any special skill.

Out of space for storage? Have you collected a few too many pretty things to keep them all tucked nicely away? Perhaps the solution is to store them right out in the open as seen in this image below with dinnerware being used as display under cloches. The glass elements give a bit of luxury to what would otherwise appear to be a haphazard pile of excess dishes. Something that appeals to the A-type portion of my personality is the fact that the dinnerware is covered and therefore kept from collecting dust and debris…and germs…

Cover basic chipboard or cardboard storage containers in Book Cloth. Give your space not only texture and warmth, by keeping those must have storage units right out in the open where they are easy to access (you know you do anyhow, so might as well reap some added benefit from it), but also pull together your color scheme here just as you would with typical accessories or fabric choices only for a fraction of the cost. Martha has a pdf template for cutting the book cloth to size for those of us who need express and specific directions for every single thing in life like me…though I always find Martha's instructions to be a bit lacking in the easy to follow arena, thank goodness for templates)!

So you have a few floating shelves that have seen better days or no longer match your desired design plan…or perhaps you built some yourself, and painting or staining is not quite your forte? Not to worry, just cover them in wallpaper and give them some panache! Perfect for the commitment phobe who is dying for that uber-chic wallpapered room, but can't quite pull the trigger! Don't have wallpaper scraps on hand? Visit a store near you to see if they might, or consider using a thick wrapping paper, butcher paper, or a series of craft papers.

While I don't actually love the exact shape and styling in the image below…I do love the idea of using something simple and non-traditional in an unexpected way. A basic redwood lattice can be purchased for around $13-$14 and is a fabulously inexpensive way to add a graphic storage element to an entryway that needs to accommodate jackets, hats, gloves…even purses and keys will never get misplaced again and will look good while staying put! Use a lattice from your yard or purchase a new one and grab a few hooks to scatter about it. Hang that baby on the wall in any direction you like and voila…cool and stylish functionality. Perhaps even paint it a snappy color or distress it…

Design / DIY / Shopping

Re-Style: Design your Eco-Friendly Fabric

08.29.11

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Those of you who spend time with me on my Facebook Fanpage are probably aware by now of my frequently mentioned obsession with Throw Pillows and Fabric.  Of course I have several obsessions at any given time, but a few of them remain constant.  Fabric is one of them, and I know I'm not alone here (ahem…).

One of the most typical complaints, heard from those who are interested in purchasing Eco-Friendly Fabrics, is about the lack of readily available and stylish choices that can be found.  While this is improving at a rapid pace, it still remains an issue for most of us.

I wanted to share this fun and fabulous Source Book: Company – Spoonflower, with you all, that for their part, helps solve the stylish and available factor.  The cost for these fabric choices is a bit higher than I personally tend to spend, coming in at $18-$32 per yard…but…what is so amazing about this company is that you can print your own fabric designs with no minimum order!  Their textile printing is eco-friendly as are the fabrics they use.  Having the option to design my own prints and order them for use is just beyond my wildest dreams.  Simply draw and scan or design on the computer…upload, and order!  Simple as can be…(insert squeeling with delight sounds here…)

You can also purchase designs that have been previously uploaded to their site, so if designing is not for you, then purchasing is still an option!

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Big Sur Coastal Collection Media Buffet

08.29.11
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Another member of the Big Sur Coastal Collection…this one is pretty exciting!  Maybe I just have a thing for Buffet Tables or Media Cabinets.   If you notice the title of this piece I have created a new furniture type by calling this a Media Buffet, since really it can be either.  Inspired by the images below, this is in no way an exact replica and is not in any way affiliated with the unnamed Specialty Retailer Selling the piece as shown in the pictures.

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Saw – Miter Saw or Table Saw with Bevel Capabilities
  • Drill
Lumber
  • 2 – 4×4 at 6′
  • 3 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 4’x8′
  • 2 – 2×10 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×8 at 10′
  • 1 – 3/4″x1/2″ Trim at 6′
Materials
  • 3″ Screws
  • 2″ Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Screws
  • Hinges for Cabinet Doors
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
  • 1 1/2″ Hole Saw if you would like to make an opening in the back for wires and cords.
Cut List
  • 4 – 4×4 at 35″ (Legs)
  • 8 – 1×3 at 1 3/4″ (Spacers)
  • 4 – 1×3 at 17″ (Frame)
  • 2 – 1×3 at 56 1/2″ (Frame)
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 17 3/4″x 58″ (Bottom)
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 16 3/4″ x 29″ (Center Divider)
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 18 1/4″ x 24″ (Inner Walls)
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood at 29″ x 58″ (Back)
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood t17 1/4″ x 27 7/8″ (Shelves)
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 11 1/2″ x 30 1/2″ (Side Panels)
  • 2 – 2×10 at 65″ (Top)
  • 1 – 1×2 at 58″ (Front Trim)
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11 1/2″ (Side Trim)
  • 8 – 1×2 at 10″ ( Door Supports)
  • 8 – 1×8 at 29″ (Cabinet Doors)
  • 2 – 3/4″ x 1/2″ Trim at 27 7/8″ (Shelf Trim)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1

Attach Spacers to Legs: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2

Build the 3 Sided Frame (2): Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, then Attach to the Legs: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 3/4″ space from the front edge of the legs and where the Frame sits. There should be a similar space on the backside as well.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 3
Step 3

Attach the Bottom to the Frame: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. The bottom should be flush with the back of the back legs, but there will be a 3/4″ space remaining between where the bottom stops and the front edge of the front legs. Then Attach the Center Divider: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue, fasten to the bottom and both frames. Attach the Inner Walls: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue to attach to the Legs.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 4

Attach the Back: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue. Attach the Shelves with screws for permanent shelving or you can drill dowel holes for shelving pegs. For permanent fastening (somewhat) use 2″ Screws and attach to the Back and Inner Walls and for attaching to the Center Divider, use your 1 1/4″ Screws at an angle. Attach the side Panels: Use 2″ Crews and Wood Glue to attach to the Spacers.

Step 5
Step 5

Cut a 3 1/2″ Square in 2 of the corner for each of your Top Boards as shown below. Attach the Top to the Frame, the Back, Spacers, and Side Panels: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue or Finish Nails to Secure!

Step 6
Step 6

Attach the Top to the Frame, the Back, Spacers, and Side Panels: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue. The fewer the screw holes the more professional the top will look, but you will want to add just enough to keep it secure. Keep in mind, the carved out corners will keep it in place a bit. Add the Trim to the Front and Sides: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue. You can also use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails if you prefer, but I am suggested the screws to keep you from having to purchase a whole separate item. This is your choice and a matter of preference.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7

Build the Cabinet Doors (4): Use the trim pieces to hold the boards together along with Wood Glue. If you have a Kreg Jig, this would come in handy and help you attach the boards to each other more easily. Miter Cut the inside edges of each set of doors. Cut at a 45 Degree angle. If you have a router, you can also use that to create an edge that is a bit more decorative and allows for a hand hold grip. I use the miter cute as my process here so that you don’t have to purchase another specialized tool. See the inspiration image below my diagram to show see what I am referring to. Below the image shows 1 set of doors. Do this step for both sets. Hang the doors using any hinge you like that attaches from the inside and will fasten to the Center Divider and the Legs. See the inspiration image above for an example of this, in the bottom right corner.

Step 8

You can use a 1 1/2″ Hole Saw to create an opening in the back for wires and cords

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Design

Creating an Eco-Chic Nursery for Less: Gender Neutral Moodboard

08.27.11
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I am not quite sure which of these eco-chic nursery plans I love the most.  I definitely adore the mix of color in this one.  It’s adventurous and playful, whereas as the girly palette was more calming and sophisticated, while the boyish blend was definitely more bold and outgoing. You will find it no surprise that I may mention this design plan uses many of the same accessories and pieces included in the boyish blend,  as well as in the Girly palette we just finished.

Yep that is versatility and hopefully that translates to longevity.  We went from blue to pink with no problems at all, and then moved right on to orange and still the pieces work amazingly!

To shop this look, click here.

This Mood Board is gender neutral which means that if you are not planning on finding out the sex of your little bird, you can still focus on his or her room and it won’t need to be put off or changed if for some reason you may have been under the false impression you were having a child of the opposite sex (it could happen, couldn’t it?) or you are actually able to stick to your guns and have the little bird’s persuasion be a surprise.

To visit the previous posts in this Eco-Chic Nursery for Less series click on the links below.

Part 1: Fabric as inspiration and how it helps us begin to form a concept.

Part 2: Cribs – they are oh so stylish when they are eco-friendly.

Part 3: Determining the best color options when it comes to paint.

Part 4: Dressing your Nest , the boyish blend palette and Mood Board.

Part 4: Girlish and Pink  Mood Board

To shop this look, click here.

Showcase

Tod's Provence Beam Dining

08.27.11
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I am excited to share this finished table with you guys! Tod and his wife used recycled scaffolding boards from a stucco company to build this, and it turned out fabulously! I've got one foot out the door, on my way to the nearest stucco company in hopes of finding some of my own reclaimed scaffolding wood… This table is just amazing!

Lumber Used 

They modified the length in order to accommodate the length of the boards they had, and I think the result is just stunning. I love to see you guys take matters into your own hands and figure out how to work with what you have on hand, or to use slightly different materials than the plans call for that might be more affordable or cost effective to buy, in your region. Make use of that pile of wood sitting out back from the old shed you tore down, or pass the word along to your friends and family…don't throw this stuff out, it makes for amazing pieces with a ton of character!

Plans

Free DIY Plans to Build Architectural Garden Spires

08.26.11
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This plan is inspired by the architectural garden spires from Ballard Designs, easy to build and only requires a couple of tools to complete. This project is more of a test of your patience than it is difficult….but the reward is huge! This accessory is shown for use outdoors, and can be used for climbing plants or for decorative purposes, however, I think this would also be a fabulous and dramatic element inside as well.

Estimated Cost 

$25-$50

Tools 
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Saw – This can be a circular saw, hand saw or small hand held reciprocating saw for this project, whatever you have and are comfortable with. This project is not picky.
  • Drill or Finish Nail Set and Hammer. This will depend on the structures use.
  • For use as a trellis, use screws for added stability and strength. If for decorative purposes, finish nails will be fine and leave less of a mark to fill later.
Lumber 
  • 3/4″x3/4″ Trim (Square Dowels)
  • Large Garden Spire:
  • 5 – 10' 2 – 8'
  • 1 – Wood Finial for the top if desired
  • Small Garden Spire:
  • 2 – 10' 3 – 8'
  • 1 – Wood Finial for the top if desired
  • Both Pieces:
  • 7 – 10' 5 – 8' 2 – Wood Finals for the top if desired
Materials 
  • 1 1/2″ Screws – Use Galvanized or stainless for outdoor use whenever possible.
  • 1 1/4″ Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Finish Nails
  • Wood Glue – choose an outdoor appropriate option
  • Wood Filler – choose an outdoor appropriate option
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies – use a water seal product at the very least to protect from the elements.
Cut List 

Larger Garden Spire:

  • 8 – 14″ (Cube Base)
  • 4 – 12 1/2″ (Cube Base)
  • 4 – 25″ (Spire)
  • 8 – 21″ (Cube X)
  • 4 – 3″ (Horizontal Trim)
  • 8 – 15″ (Lower Spire X)
  • 8 – 10″ (Middle Spire X)
  • 8 – 6″ (Upper Spire X)
  • 1 – 2×2″ Rosette or Square Piece to Place on top as is, or for attaching final to.

Smaller Garden Spire:

  • 8 – 10″ (Cube Base)
  • 4 – 8 1/2″ (Cube Base)
  • 4 – 17″ (Spire)
  • 8 – 15″ (Cube X)
  • 4 – 2″ (Horizontal Trim)
  • 8 – 11″ (Lower Spire X)
  • 8 – 7″ (Middle Spire X)
  • 8 – 5″ (Upper Spire X)
  • 1 – 2×2 Rosette or Square piece to place on top as is, or for attaching a finial to.
Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Start by Building your Cube: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue

Step 2

Step 2 

Form the Spire: this will be the most difficult portion of the project, and isn't really difficult, just a bit tricky. You are going to cut 4 pieces to approximately 25″. The easiest way to find the cut angle is to use a guide in the center of your cube at a 40″ height.

Step 3

Step 3 

Then you will set a 25″ piece on one corner of your cube and lean it in toward the center guide. Mark the angle you should cut the bottom and top of your 25″ piece so that it will sit flush on top of your cube while angling toward the center, and flat at the center forming a square with the other pieces. Do this for all 4 pieces and all 4 corners of your cube. Attach them individually to the corners using a Finish Nail (so they will move a bit while you finish this step) then attach to each other in the center using 1 1/4″ Screws and Glue. You can then go back and attach each piece using a 1 1/4″ Screw and Wood Glue. Fasten down through the piece and into the cube base.

Step 4

Step 4 

This is what they will look like when you have them all cut and fastened.

Step 5

Step 5 

Trim out the Cube: Lay a piece at an angle between the 2 corners (diagonally) with the top of the piece resting in the upper right corner and the bottom of the piece resting in the lower left corner to get the best fit. Mark and cut, then attach using 2″ Finish Nails and Glue. Do this for the cross piece as well but mark off where it will hit in the center and cut there as well. Attach to the Right Diagonal as well as to the Cube.

Step 6

Add Horizontal Trim approximately 3 1/2″ down from the top: Attach using 2″ Finish Nails and Wood Glue.

Step 7

Step 7 

Trim out the remaining space in X's at the dimensions shown in the image below. Use 2″ Finish Nails and Wood Glue. Mark and Cut, mark and cut, mark and cut..do this to all 4 sides.

Step 8

Step 8 

Attach a 2×2 Rosette or Square piece to the top to finish off or for attaching a finial to if desired. Actual measurements of a 2×2 are 1 1/2×1 1/2″. Fill any Screw or Nail Holes and Touch up if you pre-finished for outdoor use. To complete the smaller size, the dimensions are shown below. Simply use the cut list above and construct as you did the larger Garden Spire. Use a Center Guide of 26 1/2″.

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Design / Home

London Calling

08.26.11

Project Image

Union Jack is all the rage… as those crazy kids say! I for one shall embrace it wholeheartedly and enjoy the kicky pattern and bold color combo it offers to an otherwise neutral endeavor!

From Clever Cupcakes to Chippy Dresser Finishes this pattern is popping up everywhere…

Sources 

I found most of these fabulous images via Pinterest and a Facebook Album from Christine Kysely, but we can't forget the most amazing dresser makeovers by Miss Mustard Seed and My Sweet Savanah! So inspiring and fabulous! I love the gray take on it's boldly colored partner in crime!

Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Viva Terra Inspired Vintage Fir Platform Bed in Full Size

08.25.11
Project Image

Yep, still amazing… no matter how you size it. Definitely our most popular bed, and understandably so!

Paired with the other pieces in the Vintage Fir Collection…its stunning, but it would look equally fabulous paired with many other styles of furniture as well. This bed has a fairly modern shape, but if you give it a reclaimed finish, or even painted this would pair well with delicate antiques, french country accessories and even traditional furnishings.

Estimated Cost 

$75-$100

Tools 
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig – optional
Lumber 
  • 5 – 2×8 at 8'
  • 2 – 2×8 at 6'
  • 9 – 1×3 at 6'
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8'
  • 15 – 2×4 at 8'
Materials 
  • 4″ Screws
  • 3″ Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Screws
  • 2″ Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List 
  • 2 – 2×8 at 80 3/4″ (Sides of Base Frame)
  • 2 – 2×8 at 60″ (Head and Foot of Base Frame)
  • 2 – 2×8 at 80 1/2″ (Sides of Perimeter)
  • 1 – 2×8 at 70″ (Foot Perimeter)
  • 9 – 1×3 at 57″ (Slats)
  • 2 – 1×3 at 80 3/4″ (Cleats)
  • 1 – 2×4 at 80 3/4″ (Center Joist)
  • 12 – 2×4 at 70″ (Headboard)
  • 4 – 2×4 at 41 1/2″ (Back Brace's)
Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Build the Base Frame: Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue to fasten the Frame together. Attach the Cleats 1 1/2″ from the top of the Frame edge and use 2″ Screws and Glue. The Slats should be spaced about 6″ apart, screw down using 1 1/4″ Screws.

Step 2

Step 2 

Attach the Bordering Platform: Use 4″ Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 5″ overhang on the sides and foot of the bed. The Side Platform Boards should be flush with the head of the beds frame.

** Center Joist from previous step, not shown

Step 3

Step 3 

Create the Headboard: Use 12 – 2×4's and attach them using 4 – 2×4's on the back side. Use 2 1/2″ Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 4

Step 4 

Attach the Headboard to the Frame and Platform Boards. **Use 4″ Screws to attach the Headboard to the Frame AT the frame sides, so that the screws go through the head of the frame and into the side boards. ** Everywhere else you attach the headboard along the top of the frame, use 2 1/2″ Screws. This headboard will be top heavy, so it should sit against a wall for extra support.

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Hampton Overlay Upper and Base Door and Drawer Face

08.24.11
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We are covering both the Upper and Base Door and Drawer Face, for this style. I will be publishing the Doors for the Under Sink Base Cabinet and Pantry in just a bit, along with the false drawer front option for the sink cabinet. These doors and drawer are overlay, which means that they extend beyond the openings and overlay the face frames of the Base Cabinet and Wall Cabinet by 3/8″ on all sides. You will find most cabinetry utilizes this overlay style. I will be covering hardware in the next day or so, and outlining some of the different styles and the amount of work required for each.

These instructions show the building process in steps 1 and 2, and the final measurements needed for the base, wall, and drawer. Use steps 1 and 2 for the process, then repeat that process using the measurements shown and detailed for each piece (base, wall and drawer front.

Estimated Cost 

$25-$50

Tools 
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Saw
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber 
  • 1 – 1×3 at 10'
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8'
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6' 1/2 sheet 1/2″ plywood in same specie as boards.
Materials 
  • 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1″ Screws 1 1/4″ Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • ** Pocket Hole Plugs – Optional
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List 
  • 2 – 1/2″ Ply at 10 3/4″ x 7 7/8″ (Base Cabinet Panels)
  • 2 – 1/2″ Ply at 10 3/4″ x 9 3/8″(Wall Cabinet Panels)
  • 1 – 1/2″ Ply at 10 3/4″ x 1 3/4″ (Drawer Panel)
  • 2 – 1×3 at 23 1/4″ (Stiles for Base Cabinet)
  • 2 – 1×3 at 26 1/4″ (Stiles for Wall Cabinet)
  • 2 – 1×3 at 4 3/4″ (Stiles for Drawer)
  • 6 – 1×3 at 10 31/4″ (Rails for Base and Wall Cabinet)
  • 2 – 1×2 at 10 3/4″ (Rails for Drawer)
Instructions 

** Check for Square after your panels have been cut down. We wouldn't want a crooked door. Place all Pocket holes for the Frames in the Rails, and set for 3/4″ stock, use the 1/2″ stock setting for fastening your panels inside the frame. You are welcome to use your Pocket Hole System to create the Drawer Face as well, however it might be easier and more cost effective to simply secure directly to the Drawer Front in the appropriate arrangement, from the inside using regular screws.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

For both the Upper and Base Cabinet doors, you will create the Frame first. the diagram below shows the measurements for the base cabinet door. The Wall cabinet door will be constructed in exactly the same manner, so it won't be outlined, and only shown as final measurements further down.

Step 2

Step 2 

Fasten the interior panels to your frame. The back of the panel should sit flush with the back of the frame. The front of the panel should be recessed by 1/4″ . Use glue and your Pocket Holes System set for 1/2″ stock.

Step 3

Step 3 

Below are the dimensions for the Upper wall Cabinet. It will be constructed in exactly the same manner, but will have a few slightly different measurements.

Step 4

Step 4 

Below are the measurements for the Drawer Face. You don't really need to construct it in the way we did for the cabinet doors since we will have something behind it to fasten it to. You can simply arrange the pieces accordingly and glue and clamp in place. Once the glue has set, you can fasten with regular screws from the inside of the drawer front on your actual drawer. Visit the Build It! Plans tab to see the other plans that have been done so far.

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Showcase

Keren's Twin Chelsea Platform Bed

08.24.11

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My son Louis got lumber, plans, and his own “adult” tool set from Santa for Christmas. The letter from “Santa” said that he was to build his new bed with his dad. They put it together and I stained it for him. We are pretty proud, especially the hubs and son (Louis) since they built it and all.

Finishing Technique 

After chatting with Rayan about how to go about this best and some of the different stain options, a tinted paste wax finish sounded like the way to go and I loved the lack of the extra step of applying the varathane. I used Briwax brand and while it was a bit of a workout to buff between coats, it was very forgiving and a really beautiful color.

Design

Creating a Girlish and Pink Nursery Moodboard

08.23.11
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I absolutely love the pink, gray, beigey brown combo for a girls room. It’s calming and sweet without being too in your face on the bubble gum colored front. This design plan uses many of the same accessories and pieces included in the boyish blend we just finished.  I did mention they were versatile pieces, did I not?  We went from blue to pink and it was no problem at all!

To shop this look, click here.

Then again I suppose our wise decision making on furniture colors is likely to play a role in why these accessories can be used, regardless of the color palette you have chosen.

To visit the previous posts in this Eco-Chic Nursery for Less series click on the links below.

Part 1: Fabric as inspiration and how it helps us begin to form a concept.

Part 2: Cribs – they are oh so stylish when they are eco-friendly.

Part 3: Determining the best color options when it comes to paint.

Part 4: Dressing your Nest and the boyish blend palette.

Design / Shopping

On the Map

08.23.11
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I have always had a “thing” for maps…

I love antique maps, school room maps, oceanic maps, pictorial maps, political maps, topographical maps…and could go on, and on, and on about my love of each and every type of map…

I think maps as art and wall decor are an amazing and interesting choice for a home’s decor, and perhaps even a conversation starter. They add an element of whimsy by detailing far away places and time immemorial. Up until now I have tended toward the antique, retro and/or now obsolete specie of maps, because they tend to be quite beautifully constructed and the range of colors you can find them in, allow them to easily fit into a variety of color palettes and design plans or styles. My fascination with history and science and sparks my interest in the evolution of our political boundaries and the ecological changes that have taken place, they are really quite remarkable.

I have recently been pleasantly surprised by a couple of newly created and readily available maps that make quite a statement and place an emphasis on design, through the use of color. I will likely always maintain my fondness for maps of old, the beauty of which can be seen below, but the fact that they are available in reproduction prints, means they can be purchased by folks like you and I! I’m curious…Which do you fancy… Modern or Antique?