As the summer begins to fade, while the temps are still high, Mustard colored hues play fabulously in my mind. Dreaming of crisp fall air and foggy mornings with bright sunny afternoons. These amazing items and images really show how chic this color can be. Whether bright or muted, there is a mustard for every occasion.
All of the original sources and images can be found here, along with a few extra goodies which will be added to over time!
That’s right friends, after a long overdue vacation from Finishing, I am finally doing the glazing tutorial. Sorry for the delay, but…well, I have just been so darn busy! Then I had a bit of a mishap and had to begin again. Oh the horror. Black paint everywhere and a toddler in the midst.
You can visit the Finishing School Page from the BUILD tab or drop down menu above and view the other tutorials that have been done so far.
Without further ado, let’s get started…
Here is what you should end up with to a certain extent:
I chose to use black for this finishing technique because I feel when it comes to glazing, black is ignored more than it should be in favor of brown or a dark walnut. But, I just feel sometimes, black is the better choice (not always) and in this instance, I definitely think this was the case.
Begin with a well sanded, primed, and painted surface. For instructions on how to achieve this, see my Tips and Tricks for Painting like a Pro
As you can see from the image below, the Deco Art paints, if you can find them in your area and in a size that is affordable and makes sense to buy, you should. The fact that this piece even looks remotely smooth and brush stroke free is a major feat! You have no idea what this poor baby went through on the road to beauty. Beauty is sacrifice though, is it not?
This color is called Birch Bark and I think I love it! It looks vaguely like a weathered wood color. A little bit gray a little bit beige, and a whole lot of wonderful!
Once your paint has fully dried you will mix your glazing concoction. Each Glazing Medium may have a different recipe for you to follow on the back, but here is my one word of advice on this front: until you are practiced in glazing and know how to eyeball the level of watery-ness that you like, make this VERY watery and you can always layer up. Hard to go back if your formula is too thick and it covers to much or in a pattern you don’t love.
The product I used was the Deco Art Glazing Medium, which suggest 1 part Glaze to 1 part Water then 35% paint added. The great thing about this is that you can use their glazing medium with any of their paints so this was perfect for me given that I had that already.
For the rest of you, glazing medium can be purchased in the paint aisle where you are likely going to buy your paint or at the craft store if you only need a very small amount.
Once your medium is good and watery (I mean watery, at least the first round), you will cover a small area of your piece, you want to ensure that your glaze doesn’t dry before you wipe, so small sections are preferred.
Since my entire object is small, well, I covered the entire area.
Once you have covered your small section, you will almost immediately wipe off with a clean lint free cloth. The idea here is that you wipe away the glaze on the upper regions and highest peaks while the glaze remains in the crevices, thereby creating an aged tarnished effect.
If you need to do this more than once to achieve the desired level of “aging” you can do so.
You can see the black has remained in the crevices and has darkened some of the flat surface as well. I allowed this to happen in the corners more so than any of the other flat surfaces.
I am always going to err on the side of caution, when it comes to faux finishing. I feel like less is more, but too little is pointless. You need to find a happy medium that you enjoy, but keep in mind that the mistake made most often is going overboard on the technique. It will look contrived and busy which is not at all likely to occur in reality, and that is precisely what we are trying to emulate here.
Once your piece has fully dried, you will want to seal with 3-4 coats of Polyurethane. Make sure that if you used water based paint, you choose a water based poly. I recommend a Satin Finish when you are creating a faux finish since again, if an item is likely to tarnish or age, it is not that likely to have a sheen to it. Give it just enough sheen to make it durable and washable, but not any more than that. I swear by Satin finish poly for a faux finish (unless you are working with a shade of white…the polycrilic or a wipe-on ploy is a better choice)!
Stained using Oxford Brown 713 from Lowes
A couple of weeks ago I shared this stunning build from Elijah for this most incredible Chesapeake Picnic Set. I thought I would share the second set built and stained a dark brown finish! It's absolutely amazing, and as it turns out, if I'm not mistaken I think the brothers sell their work! So if you are in the market for some new pieces and don't have the ability to build yourself, then get in touch with them through their site.
Stained using Oxford Brown 713 from Lowes
Once again I was a bit lazy in my construction of these, and I really didn’t spend a lot of time on the painting… but they look so fabulous…who cares!
$10
1 Hour
I used poplar which was more expensive to be sure but my original plan was to leave them natural… and thank you to my Monster Mash and his favorite green marker this didn’t pan out and so I painted them!
I used a can of very very inexpensive Black Spray Paint.
I have been “shopping” around my house for items to accessorize these bad boys with. Now with the shelves up and in the works, I need to find the proper arrangement for my buffet just below them as well. Still need several additional items and I think this might be the perfect excuse to pull out my antique book collection! Maybe even an antique globe or Victorian Wedding Basket? I finally have a spot to showcase some of the amazing collections of items I have gathered over the years (thank you Ebay!).
I am feeling some art related projects in the works… or perhaps I already have everything I need if I simply peak around with a new perspective about my old items…
For a list of tutorials on creating some (many) of the items on my shelves see the links below:
I am going to be showing you how to make your own standing floor mirror and give it a reclaimed and weathered wood look without having to track down and purchase reclaimed wood. If you live in an area like mine, this would be nearly impossible without knowing someone who knows someone, whose cousin used to do some such thing that allowed him to keep old wood from demo projects…you get what I'm saying…no? This will be constructed from brand new boards (unless you are able to find reclaimed, in which case you are a lucky duck!)…dimension lumber in fact, that should be readily available in your local lumber aisles at your local hardware/lumber supply stores. You are obviously not required to give this mirror a reclaimed or weathered look and it would be amazing with a beautiful stained or painted finish
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Under $25
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Fasten your frame together using Pocket Hole Screws and glue. Use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and your kreg jig set for 1 1/2″ stock.
Once your Frame has been constructed you can fill the seams with wood filler to make this appear to be one solid piece. Overfill and then sand down
Now you will begin your “reclaiming” and “weathering” process. This is your moment to get your anger and frustration out. Have fun, but be safe. I want you to hammer and chisel away. Mark, dent, scrape, and bang away. Use a large nail and a hammer and literally hammer the nail at an angle to make lines as shown in the image below. I also used my sander on it's side to create a series of lines every so often to make this look saw cut or rough cut. There is no tool off limits, just be sure you DON'T MAKE THIS LOOK UNIFORM. Irregularity is the name of this game. You don't want an obvious pattern. Some people have used chains, but I never seem to have those on hand in an appropriate size or weight. **You would also do well to use your sander and severely sand the edges down so that they are almost rounded and look as though beaten down by years of rain and water, just as driftwood is generally rounded and smooth. See bottom left image below for this example. Below are some of the marks I made for my own, just know that I shot these photos after I stained and washed.
Once you have thoroughly beaten your Mirror Frame you will stain it. I feel a 2 part staining process will give you the best weathered look, but you can go with a weathered wood colored stain or a gray wash by itself and still it will be amazing. Otherwise I recommend beginning with either Red Mahogany, Mahogany, or Walnut. Do not worry about applying this well. In fact, the worse you do the better it will look! Wipe it on with a brush, lint free rag, or even a sock. Make sure you get this first color into all of the grooves and indentations in fact if you can focus on those areas it will turn out better in the end. Colors such as these are most appropriate: The colors above are by Cabot and are Mission Brown and Oak Brown.
Then once that has dried follow up with the weathered wood colored stain or your gray paint wash. Use a brush for this step and keep it light and on top. You will apply this conservatively and layer as needed…in a very sloppy manner! The messier the better and the more realistic it will look! Here are a few options for color for either stain or paint. If using paint choose a color in the greige family (gray beige) and water it down a ton. You want this to be at least 2 parts water to one part paint if you go this route. These are stains by Cabot and are Napa Vine, Sycamore, and Driftwood. Choose a semi-transparent stain. For paint color I chose Birch Bark by Deco Art and added a tiny bit of white and a drop of blue before watering it down. Allow your frame to fully dry before you continue on to the next step.
Fasten your Mirror to backside of the Frame. I will provide you with a few different alternatives for accomplishing this in the next step but let's begin by stating that your mirror should be about 1/2″ larger than your opening on all 4 sides.
To attach your mirror you can use mirror hanging devices as seen in most standard tract home bathrooms. Those little claw feet that will screw onto the frame on both the top, bottom, and sides to keep the mirror in place. They look like the image below and can be found at any hardware store. If you don't prefer to purchase this extra material you can use heavy duty tape as instructed in the next step to secure your mirror.
Then I would recommend a layer of protective plastic or thick duct tape. I chose a plastic sheeting layer but strips of tape would also work if you happen to have that around. You want this layer to extend about 1 1/2″ beyond the edge of the mirror (and clips if you used them). If you don't care to purchase mirror hanging clips, you can also secure your mirror in place by using only thick duct tape, perhaps something like Gorilla Glue Tape.
While holding the mirror in place you will quite literally place strip after strip down the length of the mirror with 1 1/2″ overhang to allow for the next step.
Once you have taped or covered in plastic or both…you will attach your trim around the edge to secure your tape or plastic in place even further. This allows you to secure your mirror without running the risk of breaking it and gives you a bit of room to maneuver. Use the 1″ Screws. This bottom images show what this will look like: Note: I mitered my corners only to realize it really wasn't necessary, so save yourself the trouble!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
This Woodland Creatures Mood Board was a labor of love. I adore nursery and kid's room design and I absolutely love some of the natural elements that are included in a woodsy creature filled theme.
Shop this look: Each item in this Mood Board can be found in the list below!
The Design Confidential – Nursery Stretched Print | Meadow
$70Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – ferm Living 2033-12 KIDS WallStickers…
$60Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – ferm LIVING 3019 Small Stem Bowl
amazon.com
The Design Confidential – ferm LIVING Branches WallSticker
amazon.com
The Design Confidential – ferm LIVING Birch WallSticker
amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Amenity Home NSP-0300 Woodlands Organic Crib…
amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Apple Silk Pillow
$100Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Tasette Pillow in Curry
$69Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Ferm Living – Weed Pillow
$100Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Dotty Kids Organic Cotton Pillow in Yellow
$70Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – 8' x 10' Area Rug Striped Design in Green…
$524Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Spot On Square Eicho Eco-friendly Changing…
$675Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – White Legare Select Bent Plywood Chair
$51Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Lambs and Ivy Enchanted Forest Plush Owl,…
$11Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Lazy Susan Faux Leather and Crocco Buckets,…
$288Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Jaq Jaq Bird Eco-friendly Feeding Bib
$14Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Crane Dance Mobile
$32Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Plan Toys Stacking Tree
$21Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Lambs and Ivy Enchanted Forest Plush…
$14Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Vanilla White Double Gourd Ceramic Table…
$80Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Carson Anywhere Desk – Green
$79Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Careplay Squirrel Ride-On Play Critter
$60Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Teal Blue Green Chinese/Japanese Paper…
$1.78Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Ceramic Owl Bank in White – One Bank -…
$9.95Â –Â amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Oeuf Sparrow Crib
amazon.com
The Design Confidential – Kids Lighting: Handwoven White Rattan…
amazon.com
The Design Confidential – DaVinci Emily Four Drawer Dresser – Espresso
amazon.com
First of all I have to thank you for the great plans and design. I had been wanting to do something with my little man's room for sometime. We had his toys in the basement and this was due a little lack of space. On top of that, he loves having a fort to play in, so this seemed like the best design idea. I searched everywhere for plans, kits, and even thought about purchasing one from a store, then I found your site!
The project took a little longer than I wanted, I didn't realize how much sanding would need to be done, and on top of that we had some very hot and humid days. I will say that cutting, sanding, and staining was a life saver though, and there was no way it would fit through a door assembled.
I had intentions of painting the bed, but worried about a color that would match with everything. Also, I knew this would be a big piece of his room, so I decided to stain it. I first purchased some 2 in 1 stain and polyurethane in a Pecan color. I tested it after being built, but was not happy with it. The posts are Douglas Fir, and the rest Pine, but they had very different colors. So I decided to go darker, and went with a stain only of English Chestnut. A neighbor suggested to then coat it with the Pecan and see what it did. I was amazed how the dark stain first took to the wood, but somehow the Pecan 2 in 1, popped out the dark color, and also lightened it at the same time.
So after it was all done, including a going from a light green room, to a blue and white striped room, he came home for his week with me, and was so excited to see it done. He said “Daddy did you build it for me? I want to sleep in it forever!!!”
Anyway, thanks again. As you will see in the photos, he loves it, and to be honest, I wish I had one now 🙂
Isn't she handsome? Those lines…she is what one might call a modern antique. The Ann Marie collection is just a little bit Parisian and a little bit Deco and a whole lot of Chic! Masculine and feminine at the same time she is the best kind of compromise in the bedroom. If you know what I mean..(ahem)!
She would be fabulous in so many colors… You will find her surprisingly easy to build…and perhaps one of the most budget friendly beds to be had without sacrificing style in any way shape or form. She will fit any standard Queen Sized mattress and box springs. You can either use a box spring or not, it is your decision. A box spring will make this appear higher and a bit more regal and the drawings shown use both.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$75-$100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Begin by cutting the headboard to size. I chose a 48″ height for the comfort of it as well as for ease of cutting since MDF is sold in 4'x8' Sheets (approx). This allows for creating your headbaord with one cut.
Cut your side panels to size and create your arc. Work within the measurements diagrammed below to allow for trim later, otherwise the slope of the shape is entirely up to you. Draw and cut out your shape on one panel and use it as a template for the other panel. Attach to the Headboard using 2″ Screws and Glue. Side panels should be flush with the back side of the headboard.
Cut the Foot Board and Side Panels to size and cut out your arcs. Keep within the measurements outlined below, otherwise the slope or shape of your arc is up to you. Attach the Side Panels to the Foot Board using 2″ Screws and Glue.
Working from the bottom to the top, attach the 8″ Lower Trim to the Headboard and Foot board as shown shown below,then attach the 1×3 Supports to the Side Panels, then the Side Rails to the Side Panels and the Upper Trim to the Head and Foot Board, in that order so that everything fits precisely. Fasten the Cleat to the Side Rails. The Upper and Lower Trim should snuggle and support the side rails in addition to being decorative (at least for the upper trim).
Lay out your 1×3 Slats every 4″ or so and screw into place.
Trim out your bed as shown below. You will use 1×2 for the majority of your trim and 1×3's at the top of both the Head Board and Foot Board when you are finished trimming out the rest of the bed. You can also get creative and add appliques, additional molding or embellishments as desired. Get creative and use a bold color. Remember bold doesn't HAVE to mean bright and obnoxious, but it certainly could… Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails for the Trim.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
I just finished the very long process of painting my V-Frame Shelf (plans for this are here) and spent some time thinking about some pretty funny and frustrating occurrences that might take place during a build. Inevitably it seems the finishing portion of my projects is truly the most lengthy.
In my house, there are some frustrating and tiresome tidbits that always seem to pop up, and likely will for you at some point as well, at least if you happen to be like me, and you are limited on time and resources and you tend to purchase materials in sizes and quantities that can be used for multiple projects and future builds rather than the simple project at hand…of course, if you are wrangling a kiddo in the process, you will definitely have quite a bit of stop and start.
It never fails that things will go wrong or not as expected, and you will run out of what you need, just before you need it, or that just when things are working themselves out and you think you found a way around your problem area, the little green monster of toddler terrorism rears it’s head and takes you for a ride down difficult lane.
This particular project was one of those projects for me…every single thing that could go wrong, did! I am not even exaggerating to say so.
I thought this would be an ideal opportunity to share some of those experiences with you and to show you that even when the going gets tough, that you shouldn’t lose confidence and there is always a way to troubleshoot and attempt to rectify… to show you that not every build goes smoothly and sometimes things just turn out terribly and are completely out of your control, but that it’s ok, and really doesn’t matter much in the end.
If you are scared to build and unsure of your abilities…this article is for you!
so…let’s talk about some of my troubles…
Where do I begin…the first of my problems began when I couldn’t find any of my trusty tools or “go-to” items, thanks to the hubs and his willy-nilly reorganization of the garage earlier this month. We needed to replace out garage door after it randomly crumpled in on itself, and the ‘garage door man’ (I’m pretty sure that’s his real title…) needed a 15 foot clearance to replace the door. That’s a big request when you downsize by 1600 square feet and much of your “stuff” is still boxed in the garage, to save space in the house. I am sure you will have no problem imagining that this “request” resulted in floor to ceiling piles of “stuff” that were no longer in any type of order or rationale.
Amongst the missing tools, that had become part of the chaos, were my clamps, wood filler, and sandpaper for my sander. After running out of 1 1/2″ pocket hole screws, I later discovered this list also included my regular drill/driver bits, and my countersink bits. Pretty much all of my tools, were nowhere to be found. I wouldn’t have needed the 1 1/2″ screws in the first place, if I was able to find my good clamps for using with my Kreg Jig Jr., and if I hadn’t had so many issues getting the unit to stay in place, while I drilled my pocket holes. I am pretty sure the clamp I was attempting to use might have been a toy, and if not…it probably should be. Every time I started to drill, the power of the bit and the drill sent my jig scurrying across my board or right off the edge. This happened every single time, regardless of how tight the clamp was, what it was clamped to, and how hard I tried to get that bad boy to sit still. Of course I couldn’t simply stop what I was doing and head to the store to buy what I needed, because my kiddo was sound asleep (on the family room floor no less) after fighting me on taking a nap for 2 hours…I wasn’t about to wake him up!
Somehow this clamping disaster threw off my settings and placed the pocket holes just a smidge out of range for the more appropriately sized, and more adequately stocked, 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. I had no choice but to move up a size and hadn’t accounted for this since I only had about 6 pocket hole screws in this “new” size…as I mentioned a second ago, I didn’t have my regular bits to use with my wood screws so I was forced to use really long pocket hole screws from the outside (ugh, and visible) to fasten portions of this shelf together..AFTER I had already created all of the pocket holes for the entire project, and of course a few extra pocket holes were made, in an attempt “fix” the problematic length of screw I needed.
I was basically left with a zillion visible pocket holes to fill, visible (and protruding) screw heads, and dozens of other areas that needed to be filled or sanded down for various reasons…I was in need of an extreme amount of wood filler on this piece. I am talking boat loads of filler, just to bring this piece up to par and make it a bit less terrible…and swiss cheese like.
Which brings me to my next problem.. I couldn’t find the filler. sigh…one problem after another and lot’s of frustration at my hubs and his method of organized chaos.
With a kiddo in tow, it isn’t always easy (and sometimes impossible) to rush out to the hardware store, and get the supplies I need, when I need them. Not to mention, the cost of these supplies adds up over time, and when you know you already own these things, the idea of spending money to replace them, can feel a bit unsettling. Of course, I tried to wing it, only to come to that inevitable conclusion that there are just steps to the process that can’t be skipped, and shouldn’t be altered and any attempt to sidestep them, will result in sending you back to the starting line without letting you collect $200 without a get out of jail free card.
Alas, all of these issues came to a boiling point, and I needed to either find the missing tools, or purchase replacements. After my wholehearted attempt to prime my way out of these dilemmas failed, I decided this way of building was just not working, not even a little bit.
After an expensive trip to the store, with wood filler in hand, and sandpaper in the queue, I was armed with the tools necessary for attempting to disguise the fact that I had ultimately assembled and fastened this piece together using several pocket hole screws as though they regular wood screws and without their pocket holes. I attempted to neatly fasten them in such a way as that they might look purposefully placed, but since I knew they would ultimately be covered in paint, they could never completely look purposeful or decorative . This was a long project…have I mentioned that yet?
It would seem that by a silly string of events, I was going with a rustic look, whether I wanted to or not!
When you have screws that will ultimately show, it is all the more necessary to place them well, and to consider how they may best seem as though they were meant to be there. If you notice in the picture above I did a moderately decent job of keeping them in order and placed them where one might if they were giving this shelf a rustic look, and the screws had a decorative purpose, even though they definitely didn’t.
I did my best to slather this bad boy with filler, and made it through 3 rounds of filling and sanding, before deciding that I was too impatient to continue on in this careful manner, and went ahead with the sanding process for prepping my finish.
A good sanding can be the difference between a decent build and a fabulous build and finish. You can fix or disguise slight errors that have been made, to a certain extent, and smooth your surface to allow for a well painted finish. I sanded for almost 2 hours in total, and ran the gamut from moderately coarse to extra fine paper and the results of my work took my problematic build, to a decent finale. I couldn’t sand off the screw heads, unfortunately, but I wasn’t willing to remove them and start again, so this baby turned out beautifully considering…
The moral of this story? You WILL run into problems or hiccups along the way if you tackle multiple projects…it’s how you choose to handle them, that will make or break you. You will learn and you will laugh, and perhaps you will even cry a bit, but frankly it won’t matter much when you have something beautiful to look at, of your own making, a true work of creation! Hopefully you can even add saving quite a bit of money to the list of accomplishments, and you will have a custom piece, in the color and finish of your choosing. No more living at the mercy of the retailers.
I would love for you to share your own funny or frustrating experiences with us…please email me with your stories or post them to the forum! Most of us can relate and we love to know we aren’t alone in the silly department!
Anthropologie never fails me! I may not always LOVE the boho chic clothing or housewares with busy patterns, but it is guaranteed that I will love something, or many things. They never let me down, season after season…
I would just like to send a little shout out to the group behind the unique architectural pieces they sell online and in their stores…I would be willing to work with you all for free…yes free….All that I require is that my travel expenses are paid for…No salary necessary. I am uniquely qualified in antiques and artifacts and in addition to my education in Interior Architecture and Design also have extensive education in Liberal arts with an emphasis in European History, Classics, and Comparative Lit….but mostly…I have a keen ability to drool on command over just about anything with beauty and history!…please, please, please hire me…
Ok on to the important stuff! I love the range of pendant lighting they introduced last season and especially hold a spot dear to my heart for all things mercury glass, and chicken wire. While I realize the wire looking lamp lights are not actually chicken wire, they will do…most definitely!
I mean come on…are you trying to kill me here with all of this deconstructionist goodness?
All lighting from Anthropologie
I stumbled across the Penny Farthing Design House shop a few weeks ago, and couldn't get a few of their wares out of my mind! A really interesting take on a few beloved items like the subway sign art, typography, acrylic furniture pieces, not to mention maps… Oh I heart maps! I Always have… I think it must inspire my wanderlust!
