By special reader request… the 90 inch table! Of course if the 65 Inch is more your speed – plans for that are here.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 3 – 2×12 at 8′
- 5 – 1×3 at 8′
- 2 – 6×6 at 6′
- 3” Wood Screws
- 2″ Finish Nails – optional
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak– optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 6×6 at 30″ (Legs)
- 2 – 1×3 at 23 3/4″ (Side Aprons)
- 6 – 1×3 at 30 1/4″ (Table Supports)
- 2 – 1×3 at 79 1/2″ (Front/Back Aprons)
- 3 – 2×12 at 90 ” (Table Tops)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Attach the Side Aprons to the Legs. These will be fastened 1 1/2″ from the top of the leg and will sit back 1″ from the outside edge of your legs. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ material and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws with glue.
Build the Frame // set your Kreg Jig for 3/4″ material and create your pocket holes. Use 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws and Wood Glue to fasten together.
Attach the Frame to the Legs // Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue. Frame will sit 1 1/2″ from the top edge of the legs and will be centered front to back with a setback of 1″ from front edge of legs as well as on the backside.
Cut 3 boards to length for the top of your table. Remove a 3 1/2″ square from 2 of the corners for 2 of your boards. Use a jig saw, circular saw or router for this. Then attach your table top boards to the frame and aprons using 2″ finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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What happened to your bench plans and the 65″ plans, pages seem to be down.
hmmm i see that. not sure where they have gone, but i will get to the bottom of it right away! stay tuned and check back shortly – i will get things all fixed up!
Appreciate it!!
Thank you for these plans. Could you clarify the size of the legs for me? In the materials and cut list you reference 6×6 but in Step 4 you are referring to leg widths of 3.5″.
I might be missing something as I am new to woodworking but thank you in advance.
eek, yep you are correct that it is confusing! this plan should call for 6×6 beams and you will want to carve out a 5 1/2″ square in the corners. it can also be made with 4×4’s (3.5″) but with the longer length i am thinking the 6×6 will ring true to form and look a bit more amazing… i will get the diagram fixed!
Thank you!
Where did you find 6×6 posts…having a heck of time finding somewhere to supply these.
Quick question on stability: I built the table this weekend almost to the T of the directs (the only difference is that we used 4 – 1×10’s instead of 3 – 2×12’s for the top so it’s a tad wider). We’ve noticed that it seems to have a little bit of weakness in the 90″ direction (aka it wobbles a bit if you lean into the end). Do you have any tips to help stabilize it?
Thanks!
So it very likely has to do with swapping the boards to a thinner stock. I realize you have already built your beauty, but if it is majorly problematic I would suggest switching back to the thicker stock and use 2×10’s rather than 1×10’s. They will have greater tensile strength and you will have much less wiggle to your wobble. Also, you can try to level your legs to work against the wobble. It is possible to add the tiniest bit of slant to the bottom of the legs on one or both sides to remove the tables ability to lean so much in one direction or another. And…. if you think it seems to have something to do with where the top connects to the legs, then I would recommend attempting to squeeze a bit more glue down into the joint while you have it clamped, and maybe even secure it further with a screw or some nails.
I am a rookie so bear with me and attempting this…but in Step 1 it references a 23 1/4″ side apron, the measurement list is 23 3/4″ and looking at the 65″ table it is 26 3/4″ on the cut list. Which is correct?
I also found a place that sells 1″ and 1 1/2″ white oak slabs for the top, so it can be a single surface which I am going to attempt as well, but know that will change the measurements anyway as it won’t be 2×12’s with 3/8″ gaps but want to confirm it first so I can adjust accordingly. Thanks for these plans…my project will start this winter!
Do you have plans for the matching bench, by chance? Thank you!
I have a matching bench that is 48″ long, but it was originally meant for the shorter table (64″ or so I think). I would be happy to draft plans for a longer bench if you like?
That would be so great! Thank you!