Part bunk bed, part play house and if made and finished with the right materials this awesome piece of furniture could be both indoor and outdoor compatible (water seal and all that jazz). If you have been with us here at TDC for any period of time, you probably already know by now that this is my favorite type of build. Multi-functional and the stuff that dreams are made of… Ah, to be a kid again…
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- 3 – 2×6 at 8’
- 14 – 2×4 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 5 – 1×3 at 8’
- 5 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
- Qty 8 – 5/16″ Carriage Bolts at 4″ length
- Qty 8 – 5/16″ Washers
- Qty 8 – 5/16″ Cap Nuts (rounded top)
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 1-1/4″ Wood Screws
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- Paste Wax
- 4 – 2×4 at 58” – Posts
- 2 – 2×4 at 72” – Side Tops
- 2 – 2×4 at 72” – Side Rails
- 2 – 2×4 at 72” – Side Bottoms
- 2 – 2×4 at 19” – Side Short Studs
- 2 – 2×6 at 76” – Side Bed Rails
- 2 – 1×4 at 76” – Cleats
- 2 – 2×4 at 53” – Side Long Studs
- 2 – 2×4 at 21-1/2” – Rungs
- 2 – 2×4 at 43” – End Rails
- 2 – 2×6 at 43” – End Bed Rails
- 2 – 2×4 at 30-1/2” – End Studs
- 2 – 2×4 at 43” – End Bottoms
- 1 – 2×2 at 79” – Roof Ridge
- 8 – 2×4 at 31” – Rafters
- 12 – 1×3 at 40” – Slats
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 27-1/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Back Wall
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x31-3/4” – Back Wall Sides
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x72” – Back Wall Bottom
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-13/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Front Wall
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 48”x80-1/2” – Lower Front Wall
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x80-3/4” – Head Wall
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x17-1/2” – Door Bottom
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 1-3/4”x32-1/2” – Foot Wall Tops
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-1/2”x9-3/4” – Foot Wall Sides
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x48” – Foot Wall Bottom
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 33-1/4”x80-1/2” – Back Roof
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x33-1/4” – Small Front Roof
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 55-1/4”x33-1/4” – Large Front Roof
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
For the Back Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten.
For the Front Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten.
For the Head Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.
For the Foot Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Slats. The Slats will be spaced approximately 4” apart. Attach to the Cleats on each end using 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the Rafters and Roof Ridge. Cut the bottom ends of the Rafters at a 45-degree angle as noted. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Rafters. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Back Wall. If preferred, you can cut the Back Wall out of a solid piece of 3/4” plywood. However, this image shows the Back Wall made of several different pieces – time to use those scrap pieces of 3/4” plywood! Cut the top of the Upper Back Wall at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the back of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Back Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.
Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. The Front Wall will be cut in two sections – an Upper and a Lower section since plywood comes in a 48” width. Cut the top of the Upper Front Wall at a 45 degree angle. Make the ladder cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut.
When the wall is attached to the Bed Frame, the cut-outs should line up just above a 2×4 for extra support. Attach to the front of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Front Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.
Cut the pieces for the Head Wall. Attach to the head of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Cut the pieces for the Foot Wall. Attach to the foot of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
Make the window cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut.
Cut the pieces for the Roof. Each end of the Roof pieces should be cut at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the Rafters and Ridge of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.
That’s it! Experiment with painting the inside of the Bunk Bed a different color than the outside. You can also play around with installing puck or rope lighting… the possibilities are truly endless with this Bunk Bed!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.
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