This Free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a Twin Sized Low Loft Bunk with Rolling Desk and Shelf is a a fabulous addition to our most popular collection of all time! Built with closed ends, a ladder and of course the rolling desk, this version can be made in whole or in part by adding on to any of our other Low Loft Bunk plans.
The other amazing plans in this collection are below!
- 3 – 4×4 at 8’
- 3 – 2×6 at 8’
- 7 – 1×4 at 8’
- 9 – 2×4 at 8’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 2’x4’
- Qty 8 – 5/16″ Carriage Bolts at 6 1/2″ length – *if you can’t find 6 1/2″ Bolts 7″ Bolts will also work
- Qty 8 – 5/16″ Washers
- Qty 8 – 5/16″ Cap Nuts (rounded top)
- 3” Wood Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws
- Countersink Drill Bit
- 5/16″ Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak– optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- Anti-Tip Kit
- 4 – 4×4 at 52” – Legs
- 2 – 2×6 at 78-1/2” – Lower Front and Back Bed Rails
- 2 – 1×4 at 78-1/2” – Front and Back Cleats
- 2 – 2×4 at 78-1/2” – Back Desk Rails
- 2 – 2×6 at 41-1/2” – Lower Side Bed Rails
- 2 – 2×4 at 41-1/2” – Side Desk Rails
- 2 – 2×4 at 78-1/2” – Upper Back Bed Rails
- 2 – 2×4 at 57” – Upper Front Bed Rails
- 1 – 2×4 at 21” – Vertical Front Guard Rail
- 11 – 1×4 at 38-1/2” – Slats
- 2 – 2×4 at 41-1/2” – Upper Side Bed Rails
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12”x41-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 2×4 at 53” – Ladder Rails
- 4 – 2×4 at 16-1/2 – Ladder Rungs
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12”x20-1/2” – Bookcase Top and Bookcase Shelf
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 12-3/4”x20-1/2” – Bookcase Bottom
- 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-3/4”x25-3/4” – Bookcase Sides
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2”x25” – Bookcase Back
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 3”x22” – Desk Stop
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 24”x38-3/4” – Desk Top
- 6 – 1×2 at 41-1/2” – Desk Rail Tops, Sides, and Bottoms
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Lower Back Bed Rail using 2″ Screws. To attach the Rail to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2″ on either side of the Rails to allow for the Lower Side Bed Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16″ Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts. Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten. Repeat steps for Lower Front Bed Rail.
Attach the Back Desk Rail to the Back Legs. Use 3″ Screws to attach to the Legs.
Set the Kreg for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in the ends of the Side Desk Rails and Lower Side Bed Rails. Attach the Lower Side Bed Rails and Side Desk Rails to the Legs as shown with 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2″ Screws. Then fasten the Upper Front Bed Rails to it with 2” wood screws and to the Left or Right Front Leg (depending on ladder location) with 3” screws.
Next, attach the Upper Back Bed Rails. Use 3″ Screws to attach the Rails to the Legs.
Lay your Slats approximately 4″ apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1-1/4″ Screws.
Set the Kreg for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in the ends of each Upper Side Bed Rails. Attach the Upper Side Bed Rails to the Legs with 2-1/2” pocket screws.
Next, assemble the Panels. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill holes on each of the four sides of the Panel. The Panels will sit 3/4” back from the Legs and Rails on the outside of the Bed, and flush with the Legs and Rails on the inside of the Bed.
Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground. Attach the rungs at approximately 8″ apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3″ Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail.
Assemble the Bookcase as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Bookcase Top, Bookcase Shelf, and Bookcase Bottom. In addition, drill pocket holes in the backside of the Bookcase Top and Bookcase Shelf. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Bookcase Top and Bookcase Shelf will be set back 3/4” from the back edge of the Bookcase Sides.
Attach the Bookcase Back to the Bookcase as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom of the Bookcase back. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Assemble the Desk Stop and Desk Top as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. The Desk Top will overlap the front and sides of the Bookcase by 1”.
Attach the furniture castors as shown. In this diagram, we used 2” casters that measured 3” in total height. If using another caster with a different height measurement, make up the difference in the Bookcase Sides and Bookcase Back.
Assemble the pieces for the Desk Rails as shown. First, attach the left side Desk Rail, place the Retractable Desk (lining up the Desk Top inside the Desk Rail), and then attach the right side Desk Rail. Attach to the Lower Front Bed Rail and Lower Back Bed Rail with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws (drill pilot holes before using the screws to avoid wood splitting). Apply a coat of paste wax to the inside of the Desk Guides (after paint, stain, or topcoat) to help it slide smoothly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
do you have photos or a sketch?
Tim
yes of course! so sorry for all the crazy image issues! i am in the process of restoring everything and all will be perfect and glorious shortly!
Am I reading this correctly? The lumber list calls for three 4×4 at 8 feet, but the first cut is for four 4×4 at 52 inches. Wouldn’t I need four 4×4?