If you liked the original Nova Sofa, but would love a bit more seating, this Sectional unit is just the ticket! Use the pieces from this collection either indoors or outside and it is equally as wonderful for both, perhaps just styled differently, no? For the coordinating pieces in this collection, check out our Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Sofa, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Club Chair, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a NovaEnd Table, and of course the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Coffee Table. You can outfit your entire living space in one short paragraph… yahoo! Xx… Rayan
- 16 – 1×2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 2 – 1×6 at 8’ then rip them into 1×2 strips on the table saw)
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1 – 1×10 at 6’
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×8 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22” – Legs
- 1 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23-1/2” – Leg
- 1 – 2×6 (ripped to 6” wide) at 14” – Leg
- 1 – 2×2 at 49-1/2” – Back Stretcher
- 6 – 2×2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 43-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
- 1 – 2×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 52-1/2” – Upper Back
- 4 – 2×2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
- 1 – 2×2 at 8” – Inner Side Slat Support
- 1 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 49-1/2” – Seat
- 1 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-1/2” – Arm
- 1 – 1×3 at 48-3/4” – Inner Back Slat
- 3 – 1×2 at 50-1/4” – Inner Back Slats
- 1 – 1×3 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slat
- 3 – 1×2 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slats
- 3 – 1×3 at 30” – Side Slats
- 1 – 1×3 at 6” – Side Slat
- 15 – 1×2 at 30” – Side Slats
- 3 – 1×2 at 6” – Side Slats
- 3 – 1×3 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
- 1 – 1×3 at 6” – Front Slat
- 15 – 1×2 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
- 3 – 1×2 at 6” – Front Slats
- 1 – 1×10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 54” – Back Trim
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 31-1/2” – Left Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the legs. (There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, and the top edge of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the inner slat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the arm and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.
Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1×3 slat will be shorter than the 1×2 slats. Position the 1×3 slat between the inner back leg then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1×2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.
Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the trim. The angles on the trim are not pretty round numbers, but we can connect the dots to draw them. For the left side trim, measure 7-1/2” down from the outer top corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. Likewise for the top trim, measure 6” across from the top left corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. For these angles to work, the chair needs to be square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
