I know you guys are going to be excited for this beauty! Today we have gorgeous new Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair! That officially makes two plans for modern Adirondacks here on TDC (our others being the duo of Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Sawyer Adirodack Chair and Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Sawyer Adirondack Ottoman), because what would we be if not modern, am I right? Xx… Rayan
- 7 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws
- 1-1/4″ Wood Screws Or 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
- 1/4” 2” long bolts and 1/4″ nuts
- 1/4″ Spade Bit from Spade Bit Set
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak– optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×4 at 38-3/4” – Back Legs
- 1 – 1×4 at 24-1/2”– Front Apron
- 2 – 1×4 at 20-3/4” – Front Legs
- 5 – 1×4 at 24-1/2” – Bottom Seat Slats
- 2 – 1×4 at 21-1/2” – Seatback Frame Top and Bottom
- 2 – 1×4 at 28-1/2” – Seatback Frame Sides
- 1 – 1×4 at 27” – Seatback Frame Center
- 7 – 1×4 at 23” – Seatback Slats
- 2 – 1×4 at 4-1/4” – Arm Rest Rear Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 30-3/4” – Arm Rests
- 2 – 1×4 at 3” – Arm Rest Front Supports
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut out your Back Legs. You will need 2 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Back Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won’t have to worry about the actual angle for each corner. Prepare the Back Legs to be attached to the Front Apron by drilling pocket holes on the inside front end. The ‘front’ of your Back Legs will be the end with only 1 angled cut, and the ‘back’ will be the end with 2 angled cuts. Select a side of the Back Leg to be the ‘inside,’ and make sure that the other Back Leg is the opposite, or a mirror of the first Back Leg.
Cut out the Front Apron and attach as shown to the Back Legs with glue and pocket screws. When you attach the Front Apron, you will see that it is a little shy of covering the ends of the Back Legs – don’t worry, it will hardly be noticeable since this will be one amazing chair!
Drill a pair of pocket holes in the top end of the Front Legs (to later attach to the Arm Rests) and another pair of pocket holes approximately 8” down from the top end of each Front Leg, both on the side of the leg that faces the back of the chair. Attach the Front Legs to the Back Legs as shown with pocket screws.
Attach the Bottom Slats to the Back Legs as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The Slats should be spaced 1/4” apart.
Prepare the Seat back Frame pieces for assembly by screwing pocket holes in the ends of the top and bottom pieces and center piece. Assemble the Seat back Frame as shown using pocket screws.
Attach the Backrest slats to the Backrest Frame as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The Slats should be spaced 1/4” apart.
Lay the entire chair on its side – it’s almost time to attach the Backrest to the chair! Measure 15” from the ends of the back legs as shown. Next, mark a 2-3/4” perpendicular line (lay down painter’s tape and mark on the tape if you do not want to mark on the wood) from this 15” measurement. Draw a 1” line parallel to the long edge of the board in the direction of the chair’s front (this line will be 3/4” from the edge of the board). Draw in the 3rd side of this triangle – you now have the angle for your Backrest – which is a comfy 110°! Repeat this process on the inside of the other Back Leg.
And now it’s time! Line up the Backrest to the Back Legs along the angles that were just drawn. Clamp the pieces together and drill 1/4” holes for the bolts. Insert the bolts and tighten with nuts.
Drill pocket holes in one of the 3-1/2” ends of the Arm Rest Rear Supports. Assemble the Arm Rest Rear Supports to the back of the Arm Rests with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails as shown. The Rear Supports should extend 3/4” beyond the side of the Arm Rest.
Attach the Arm Rests to the Front Legs and to the Backrest (via the Arm Rest Rear Supports) as shown with glue and pocket screws, countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.
Attach the Arm Rest Front Supports to the Front Legs and Arm Rest as shown with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
thank you so much for chair plans and measuerments on how to cut the wood,thats fantastic.