A fun DIY Furniture build for a stylish buffet or sideboard that can easily double as a media cabinet or console table depending on where you need it and how you style it! If you are in the market for a DIY furniture plans for an easy to build buffet or a budget friendly console table of a different style, be sure to check out our plan index, it is loaded to the brim with great stuff! Xx.. Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Drill
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun – optional
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set – optional
- 1 – 1×2 at 2’
- 2 – 1×6 at 6’
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to rip 2 – 2x4s in half)
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/2” Wood Screws
- 3” Wood Screws
- Edge banding, optional
- 2 sets of Hinges
- 2 sets of 14” Drawer Slides
- 4 Drawer/Cabinet Pull
- Anti-Tip Kit
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 18” – Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 14” – Base Sides
- 2 – 2×2 at 43” – Base Stretchers
- 2 – 2×2 at 54” – Shelf Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 11” – Shelf Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43” – Shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 70” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 17” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 68-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Dividers
- 1 – 1×2 at 23” – Drawer Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 4 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – 1×6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/8” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-5/8” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Attach the sides and stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf and the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood shelf piece. Secure inside the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the frame.
Position the frame on the legs as shown. Secure in place using glue and 3” countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base as shown – the sides will overhang by 12” while the front and back will be flush. Secure to the base using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Treat the pieces as a left and a right – this way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawers and won’t have to be filled. Secure to the bottom and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer stretcher and drill pocket hole screws in each end. Secure to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back, sides, and dividers into the underside of the top.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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