A fabulous nightstand for storage and to set your lighting and a few display items and pretties. This piece sits at a moderate height and will accommodate those of you who don’t love a really high nightstand but don’t want a tiny little thing either. A nice substantial size and width with a good set of legs, if I do say so… Xx… Rayan
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
$75-$100
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Drill
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun – optional
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set – optional
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
- 1 set of Face Mount Hinges or Frameless Concealed Hinges and Concealed Hinge Jig
- 3 sets of 22” drawer slides (side mount with 1/2″ clearance)
- 4 Drawer/Cabinet Pull
- Anti-Tip Kit – optional
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 21-1/4” – Legs
- 8 – 1×2 at 22” – Side Frames, Back Frame, Front Stretchers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 22” – Side & Back Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 22” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 23-1/2” – Divider
- 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/4” – Drawer Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/2” x 26” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 6 – 1×3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 1×3 at 11-1/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 12” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 15-1/2” – Door
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Orient the pocket holes so the top stretcher faces up and the lower stretcher faces down. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden and not have to be filled. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet and secure to the lower stretcher, and lower back and side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges as shown. These will be hidden in the drawer bank and will not have to be filled. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The front and side edges will overhang by ½”. Spread glue on the top of the upper stretchers, position the top, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the side and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.
Cut the piece for the door. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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