What do you think? Could you cozy up on this beauty come summer? Well, with a nice fluffy cushion or 12? I could… and honestly I’m craving spring and summer so very much right now that all I want to do is sit and stare at the sky and wish for warmer temps… while I’m bundled up in gloves and a scarf. But really I live in Northern California and so it’s not really that cold and so clearly I’m a wimp. It’s certainly nowhere near as chilly as it is for those of you in the midst of this snowpocalypse (am I spelling that right? eek). I’m so very for you guys and I know you feel me when I wish for warmer weather. Though I don’t think it would hurt my feelings much to have so many ‘snow days’ off of school. Remind me to tell you the story about how I accidentally became a room mom for my boy’s kindergarten class. It’s kind of a big job. Xx… Rayan
Now that we have finished out the collection you can find the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Club Chair, the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Coffee Table and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table and round out your set!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 23 – 1×2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 8 – 1×6 at 8’ then rip them into 1×2 strips on the table saw)
- 6 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1 – 1×8 at 8’
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 2×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×8 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood
- 6- 2×6 (ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21-3/4” – Legs
- 1 – 2×2 at 77” – Back Stretcher
- 9 – 2×2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 71” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
- 1 – 2×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 80” – Upper Back
- 5 – 2×2 at 23” – Seat Supports
- 2 – 2×2 at 7-3/4” – Inner Side Slat Support
- 1 – ½” plywood at 26” x 74” – Seat
- 2 – 2×6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23” – Arms
- 1 – 1×3 at 71” – Inner Back Slat
- 3 – 1×2 at 74” – Inner Back Slats
- 2 – 1×3 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
- 6 – 1×2 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
- 4 – 1×3 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
- 18 – 1×2 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
- 3 – 1×3 at 81-1/2” – Back & Front Slats
- 15 – 1×2 at 81-1/2” – Back & Front Slats
- 2 – 1×3 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
- 6 – 1×2 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
- 2 – 1×8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 32” – Trim
- 1 – 1×8 at 81-1/2” – Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for two of the legs, three of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the wider legs.(There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the remaining two back leg and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for three of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge only of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the inner slat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the arms and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.
Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1×3 slat will be shorter than the 1×2 slats. Position the 1×3 slat between the inner back legs then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1×2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.
Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the trim. The back trim piece angles should be cut at 39 degrees and the side trim piece angles should be cut at 51 degrees, provided the chair is square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // This post may contain affiliate links.
