Oh how I love a good solid buffet, don’t you? And by buffet I do not mean the kind you eat at… As a gluten free, dairy free, only thing left is rabbit food subscribing gal, they simply don’t do much for me aside from the salad bar. And no, I don’t happen to be g&d free by choice, womp womp. My second favorite food is cereal and I just can’t have it anymore. Insert sad face here. Anyhow, I digress… I love a good sturdy hunk of wood, because I feel like they are so multipurpose, you know? Use them in a traditional sense for a dining space or throw your media components on up there and enjoy some Bravo reality tv…
This beauty can be constructed from plywood or MDF. Also note that the drawer fronts overhang the doors giving the doors an inset look minus the technical magicianery (totally a word). Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$150-$200
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 4 sheets of ¾” plywood or MDF
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 3 sets of concealed hinges
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 32-3/4” – Front Corners
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 32-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom Front
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 2” x 16-1/4” – Bottom Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 30” x 75-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 22” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Drawer Shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 25-1/4” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 23-1/2” – Center Shelf
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Upper Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 77” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 21” – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 23-11/16” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 24-1/8” – Center Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 23-11/16” – Doors
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 24-1/8” – Center Door
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the front corners and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of the side pieces. Secure the front corners to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom front. The bottom front piece will be secured to the bottom piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The lower edges of each piece will be flush with each other.
Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the bottom piece. Position the bottom piece 2” up from the bottom of the sides and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. (Pocket holes are not shown in the drawing.) Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back edge of the supports will be flush with the back edge of the bottom.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the sides and bottom of the cabinets using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure to the bottom and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides, back, and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge of each shelf. Position inside the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges – note that at least one piece will have the pocket holes opposite the other pieces so there will be a right and a left. These pieces will act as the drawer slide spacers. Install the spacers first, using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws (add a few brad nails through the front corner into the spacers), then install the dividers.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, back, and front corners.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Installthe drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions .
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. It may be easier to install the outer drawer fronts first, then install the center drawer front last. The bottom of the drawer fronts will be flush with the bottom of the drawer shelf
Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between them.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
